A Day of Multi-Pitch Climbing at Smith Rock State Park
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- čas přidán 22. 05. 2023
- Join us as we explore Smith Rock State Park with Lizzie VanPatten. We'll be climbing one of Lizzy's favorite routes, Voyage of the Cow Dog, and learning about the essential gear for multi-pitch climbing. From the hike to the climb, to the gear breakdown, we cover it all.
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Thanks for watching this video. Hope to see you out there! - Sport
🥳 Big shout out to Lizzy for making me feel so safe and to Wes for his ability to film AND adventure at the same time!
Nice video! That climb has a great name. Smith Rocks might be the most significant (and one of the very few) western US climbing areas I never visited. I climbed extensively from 1973 to about 1998, and guided 1983-94. Good luck to you both as you continue on your adventures!
3rd pitch of Voyage of the Cowdogs is awesome! Easy climbing but very exposed and you have a view of almost half of the park. I recognized the route the moment I saw the thumbnail lol
Love that climb. Nicely done everyone!
What is the self-rescue cordelette used for? Maybe for setting up a tandem rappel in case someone gets injured?
Thanks Morten! We are working on dedicated video all about self-rescue, how to use the cordelette, and other types rescue gear.
I have the cordalette for performing rescue. It's primary use is to transfer loads. This becomes necessary when belaying from above if I want to escape the belay and go check on an injured or unresponsive climber. I can also use it to pass a knot. And while it's not the most efficient it can be used for Mechanical-Advantage Raising Systems.
I think cordalette is kind of an American thing. I don't use a cordalette and don't know anyone who does in Australia. I see American climbers whip out the cordalette all the time though.
It deffinitly is. I am american and I can say I carry slings but I prefer cordolette. It's just more versatile. You can untie the knot and you have 30ft of accessory cord. You have more options as far as anchor building, emergency friction hitches, tie up anything you need. Also good for self rescue situations. I do also have and sometimes bring 120 and 240 cm slings.
@@crabbiboi5528 yeah, I just carry two 240cm slings for multipitch anchor building, and my partner carries one 480cm sling, plus our obligatory prusiks. I've never seen someone use a cordalette in Australia, though I'm sure some people do.
@@crabbiboi5528 Same here. I carry a backup sling for multipitches but almost always use a quad cordelette. I've been climbing for years now and I've never needed to use a cordelette or sling. I do use a hollowblock to haul a follower's ass up if they get stuck in a crux.
I have the cordalette for performing rescue. It's primary use is to transfer loads. This becomes necessary when belaying from above if I want to escape the belay and go check on an injured or unresponsive climber. I can also use it to pass a knot. And while it's not the most efficient it can be used for Mechanical-Advantage Raising Systems.
The cordalette is not an American thing. I know this because I was one of the people who introduced it to American rock climbing, through my involvement with the AMGA in the early 1990's. I learned about it while going through the Guides training program in Canada. A little before that time, Antoine Savelli who immigrated from France to Colorado, and started a guide service, brought the cordalette with him. There are others that also preceded me in introducing it to American rock climbing, I just happened to do it when the development of guides training and certification was really getting going, so it kinda took off at that time............
that's a whole lot of food....
She doesn't fit into a womens helmet because her head is too big.😮