I appreciate your opinion because you actually use your knives. I hope this S90V improves with sharpenings. It's a great looking knife but that means nothing if the edge chips out. Thank you for the video.
S90v is very hard because of the vanadium carbides, a Diamond only progression is the best imo because of the hardness and vanadium carbides. Less-hard abrasives in aluminum oxide or silicon carbide can work at the coarser end, by essentially 'scooping' the carbides out of the steel matrix, without having to abrade the carbides themselves; but, a diamond hone would still work more efficiently. S90v seems to have QC issues, I would guess with the heat treat from manufacturer. I’ve had good luck with my mini crooked river and my Bugout. I use my Bugout daily hard use on cardboard, wire, sometime thick paper center rolls and it holds up 3-4 weeks at times but I’ve also sharpened my Bugout 4-5 times since buying it a year ago. You use it very hard from the video I saw, nonetheless it should hold up a while beating that s90v was made for applications like that. I’m impressed you said maxamet lasted a month. Also you may try increasing angle 17-18 degrees.
I've heard that story about the carbides scooping out, or falling out, etc. In real world use, I've never noticed a difference. I am not saying it doesn't happen, only that it isn't detectable in my use. Also, with these Sic stones being friable, I think they are cutting the vanadium just fine. Since they are constantly releasing fresh abrasives, they are not dulling, and creating that phenomenon. As with everything, ymmv. Everyone has their preference. I've sharpened Maxamet with these stones, and had better results, than even cbn ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@Jef I hear you man, it just really sucks that we spend our hard earned dollars on these high-end knives with “super steels” and they don’t work as they should without a lot of maintenance. What’s your favorite steel that’s held up the best?
There are a couple. Maxamet, magnacut, and zdp189. All three have been spectacular in my line of work. I still tend to favor 154cm. Not because it’s as solid as the others, but bc it’s so easy to bring back. Very little stone work needed, when i dull em out.
That's a Good looking knife. I hope your edge improves with a few more sharpenings. I have a couple where that was the case. My maxamet in particular. Enjoyed the video.
Sorry to hear about your Benchmade. I have a P3 in Maxamet that chipped badly with light office use and chipped more during sharpening. (80 grit Edge. Pro diamond matrix up to 4000 grit 6 stone progression). I have heard that hard steel gets burned on the Sharpening belts at the factory. Supposedly 5-8 sharpenings in the good metal is revealed and the knife will perform as advised. The problem is all the Sharpening will take years off the expected life of the blade. If I send it back to Spyderco they may decide to sharpen it and return it. (Back to square one). So.. I feel your pain. 😭. Thanks for the video 😎👍
Yea 5-6 sharpening is excessive to get to good steel. Wild how each batch can yield such varying results. My maxamet has performed admirably. I can say, using such a coarse diamond, will cause the apex to crack. I wouldnt start on anything lower than a 240 sic or coarse dmt. Something about the aggressive diamonds causing more damage. I did a similar experiment with my 140 aotoma. By the time i switched to another stone, the apex just cracked off in large chuncks
I’ve got a BM 940 with s90v & it did the same thing . It was real chippy (or I thought) with light use , but it started getting better after the 3rd or the 4th sharpening if I’m remembering right . I’m not saying yours will do the same thing but mine did get better , I thought it was fatigued steel as you say , was what was wrong with mine . I’ve got the original Freek & I’m lovin it , all but Benchmades’ screwed up bevels
Yea i didnt even think about the steel being fatigued. This is the second sharpening. Maybe i will start seeing some improvements soon. If not no big loss. I will just keep sharpening till it needs a blade replacement. lol. Maybe the next one will be better
I had a couple of knives in S90V, all of them had a tendency towards micro-chipping. It´s a great steel for cutting cardboard, but if you have anything with like nylon fibres or something, it dies fast. And it´s a B to sharpen xD
I’ve used s90v and haven’t found it to be any more chippy than say, s30v. It does lose its high sharpness quickly. I know many have made statements that it maintains a toothy edge for a long time, but i haven’t seen that. Once my high sharpness goes, I’ve tended to chip it out 😂
Nice job as always. I hope that your edge improves with this sharpening. This is a nice knife, it’s too bad that the steel is not performing to its potential.
Indeed. I like the looks, weight, and carbon fiber. The more folks I talk to about it though, the more I think the steel was just damaged at factory. Couple more sharpening should tell the tale.
I think with a burr this stubborn and the damage it took, you probably have some overheated steel from the belt grinder on there that will be out after a few sharpenings. Either that or they messed up the HT. S90V is so loved because it doesn't have a stubborn burr and isn't really chippy but still offers edge retention close to S110V.. Also basically every CPM steel works better with a full diamond progression and a coarser finish. Not doing that probably adds to the problem..
I’m impressed how well you do that free hand. I just got the KME system with 140 up to 1500 diamond stones and I’m waiting on the 9 and 6 micron lapping films and a 4 micron kangaroo strop. In the meantime I practiced with the diamond stones and got good results but you make this look so easy on bench stones. I wonder if you’re experiencing carbide tear out on the s90v. I’ve read you really have to use only diamond stones and leave the edge a little toothy for best performance and avoid tear out.
I think carbide tear out is either a myth, or it’s so small and insignificant, it doesn’t matter. I’ve never noticed an issue, or difference in sharpness. Either way, i am not a fan of diamonds. I would avoid them at all costs, unless i had no other choice. Silicone carbide is a far better option in my opinion. If you must use diamonds, i would point you towards the resin bonded stones. Like Venev, or even the King 1k. There are several other brands out there, including naniwa, and one from korrin, if i am not mistaken.
They are way too coarse and remove more material then needed. Even on a “light sharpening” they take off more steel than is required. The last few sets i bought had serious problems. Damage to the actual plates that caused the edge to slam into the steel, among other things. The biggest problem was diamond size inconsistencies. The fine stone (dmt) had diamonds that were more like extra coarse in size. I will say dmt customer service was fantastic, but i never got the issue resolved. Same flaws were on the replacement plates they sent to me. Finally, the laminate that the diamonds are attached to, wears away, and chips off, after heavy use. For me it isn’t a huge issue, as i rarely used em. For someone using them daily, you’ll see your plates wear out quickly. Atoma plates seem to be better quality. If i were to use them, that would be the brand i’d go with. All that, and then it really boils down to just personal preference. I don’t like the feedback diamonds have. I dislike the scratch patterns. They are very deep and difficult to remove. When it comes to stones, i just like water and sic stones more. Feedback, speed, scratch pattern, steel removal, and everything else they offer. The only real perk diamond plates have, is that they require little maintenance.
@@Jef can't thank you enough for your help! I am going to return it. What stones do you recommend besides the gritomatic? I am having trouble finding those so I'm going with the next best thing that you recommend
Curious. What do you do for a living where you can damage eges of "super steels" so quickly butting so many chips on the cutting edge?? Only a week?? Do apprecate your honest opinion of S90V steel in YOUR use. So many pocket-knife nerds go on and on about S90V. How it's the "latest and greatest". As if trying to market knives with this steel. The harder a steel is...the higher the HRC...the more likely they are to chip. The cutting edge. So the USE is important. The type of steel used...should depend on what is your intended use. I say for the average person S30V is good enough. Or S35V, S45V, or even S110V...heck V10 will work...just means more sharping. WHetstones---best way ...if you're willing to put in the time to learn/practice. Most of us aren't. ;)
I am a maintenance tech for a cable/telephony company. Think comcast/charter/mediacom. Heres a quick vid on a few things we do. Mudd Knife in action czcams.com/video/pLkpd63RBJ0/video.html
I have been wondering about Benchmade’s S90V Spyderco seems to do a good job. I have a Spyderco Military in S90v if I have a lot of cardboard to cut I pull it out.
I can't speak of Spyderco's s90v, as I've never used it. Benchmade's, so far, hasn't been impressive. I'd take s30v over it any day. We will see after a few more sharpening, if it improves.
@@carknelson5895 lol you sure about that? Check out some of my IG page to see some of the "after use" photos of my knives. I go at em pretty hard. Would hate to damage your knife if you weren't expecting that sort of use
Man I have a Benchmade mediator with s90v and I love the knife but I also had the same issue. Only had it for about 5 weeks but it seems I can hone it to razor sharp edge but it goes away fast.
S90v just wants to be toothy. Although it doesn't seem to hang onto that razor sharpness, it will hold a toothy working edge for a LONG time. I hated this stuff at first, but I've grown to enjoy it. What did you use to sharpen yours?
I got one of the benchmade guided field sharpeners. I typically use the fine ceramic too hone it. Unless there are chips then I'll use the diamond plates. I also use the strip after honing.
@@daveycrockett6622 Nice. I have debated buying one of the regular worksharp sharpeners for review, but just haven't gotten around to it yet. I'd like to get the one that allows you to change multiple diamond grits, and pivots with the knife
@@Jef I would definitely recommend the regular worksharp over the benchmade one. The coarse plate has "Benchmade" on it and I feel like you lose more grinding surface. Should have gotten the regular one. Lol
The harder steels might hold an edge longer but are prone to chipping. There is no such thing as a perfect steel. I try to stay away from the Super hard steels. I'd rather have Tuff over hard(that's not what she said) lol
That's not always true. CPM Rex 45, which Spyderco runs around 65-67 hrc, is one of the steels that is LEAST likely to chip OR roll. It will resist rolling or chipping in situations where even the well-regarded CPM M4 would deform. Toughness is only half of the equation, when looking for a steel that won't chip. 3V will roll, but not chip. 4V, despite being harder than 3V, will resist rolling and chipping, even in extreme situations. S110V will chip much easier than lots of other steels. It's usually run at decent hardness, but still quite a bit softer than Rex 45. Even Maxamet will resist chipping more than S110V, despite being even harder(68-69 hrc) than Rex 45. S90V will chip less than S110V, but stainless steels will always have weaker edges, due to the chromium content. Sometimes an edge is over-heated at the factory, during the grinding process. This ruins the temper at the edge, making for poor edge retention and lots of chipping or rolling. A few sharpenings usually removes enough of the overheated steel, to get the kind of performance the steel is supposed to have. If this kind of stuff is interesting to you, check out the knife steel nerds website. Larrin, a metallurgy expert, does a lot of testing, research, and article writing, that you may find interesting. He has articles on things like edge stability(resisting chips/rolls), which requires toughness and hardness. He's also got lots of steels ranked for toughness, stain resistance, and edge retention.
I've always found benchmade M4 to sharpen like a dream. I dont have any other knives in m4 far as I know. s30v on the other hand i think I get worse results. anyone else?
That wasn't meant to sound rude. I was just typing my thought. I'm on the second sharpening and not too impressed either. I'll carry it a bit more hopefully it improves.
No it didnt sound rude, and i hope my comment, also didnt come off that way. I just wasnt sure if i said in the video it was the factory edge. I misspeak often and was agreeing with ya. 👍 S90v is weird. It keeps a “working edge” for a long time. That initial hair whittling sharpness however, fades quickly. Some guys swear by the stuff. I personally could do without it
Yah that's what I'm finding too. So lastnight I cut up the days cardboard and then felt the blade, sharp. Then I sliced up half a kielbasa, glassed. It didn't slice meat well seems like the blade was getting pinched slowing down the slicing. It's out of pocket for now. I'll continue with it in my rotation. Today starts M390 bugout edc. Thanks for the video we are on the same page with s90v
But s90v is supposed to have great edge retention 😂 Seriously though, i use ALL my knives in this way. Some are better than others, obviously. Zdp and maxamet, in particular
What would you like to know? I used it hard for about a month at work. Handle is comfortable. Maybe a tad small for some hands but i didnt find any problems. S90v holds a working edge for a decent amount of time although i chipped it after 2 weeks. Had to touch it up on some stones.
@@Jef How well the s90v was holding up but I think you answered that. Would you purchase this knife again if you had to go back to the day you purchased it? (I'm currently deciding if it's worth purchasing.)
Gee thats tough. I got this knife at a nice discount. They are charging way too much imo. If i had to do it again, with the same discount, sure. If i had to pay full price, no way. The s90v is good, although i have seen better. Buck marksman special edition comes to mind. That stuff was a nightmare to sharpen. So wear resistant. This one, not so much. I’m no heat treat specialist, but i think it is softer on the hrc scale, than is optimal.
I’ll have to try them. I can say shapton pro can sharpen them, but they struggle after 1k. Naniwa pro couldn’t remove the scratches after 1k. Since suehiro and king are friable, they may perform better. I’ll try it on video and see
@@Jef King DeLyxe stones are okay, but a bit too soft for my liking, but they have some quite okay polishing stones. But they aren't in the same league as Naniwa Pro when it comes to polishing, even the Shapton Glass gives a better polish, even though they feel a bit "dead" to use, not much of the feedback I want from a polishing stone.
Even the electronic scales at the end is sharp!
I was doing some s35vn while watching I did some aluminum oxide stones. Thanks for joining me 👍
😁 👊
Enjoyed, glad to have some more information on s90v. Thank you. Be great to hear how it goes with a toothy edge..
👍
Yea I’m still interested in that myself 😁 i havent dulled it much since the last sharpening
I appreciate your opinion because you actually use your knives. I hope this S90V improves with sharpenings. It's a great looking knife but that means nothing if the edge chips out. Thank you for the video.
Thanks man. I'll let everyone know what happens next sharpening. Cheers!
Sure is a sweet looking knife. I reckon they’ve cooked the edge and it’ll improve after a few sharpenings. I’ve had Spyderco S90v and it was solid.
Man i didn’t even think of that. You maybe correct. This will be the 2nd sharpening so hopefully I’ll start seeing improvements
Jef Jewell i hope so Jeff. It’s a nice knafe and a few $$$
I just started carring mine edc. The s90v glasses out fast. Might do well on meat but not cardboard or paper. Seems they like 6-800 kinda toothy
S90v is very hard because of the vanadium carbides, a Diamond only progression is the best imo because of the hardness and vanadium carbides. Less-hard abrasives in aluminum oxide or silicon carbide can work at the coarser end, by essentially 'scooping' the carbides out of the steel matrix, without having to abrade the carbides themselves; but, a diamond hone would still work more efficiently. S90v seems to have QC issues, I would guess with the heat treat from manufacturer. I’ve had good luck with my mini crooked river and my Bugout. I use my Bugout daily hard use on cardboard, wire, sometime thick paper center rolls and it holds up 3-4 weeks at times but I’ve also sharpened my Bugout 4-5 times since buying it a year ago.
You use it very hard from the video I saw, nonetheless it should hold up a while beating that s90v was made for applications like that. I’m impressed you said maxamet lasted a month. Also you may try increasing angle 17-18 degrees.
I've heard that story about the carbides scooping out, or falling out, etc. In real world use, I've never noticed a difference. I am not saying it doesn't happen, only that it isn't detectable in my use. Also, with these Sic stones being friable, I think they are cutting the vanadium just fine. Since they are constantly releasing fresh abrasives, they are not dulling, and creating that phenomenon. As with everything, ymmv. Everyone has their preference. I've sharpened Maxamet with these stones, and had better results, than even cbn ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@Jef I hear you man, it just really sucks that we spend our hard earned dollars on these high-end knives with “super steels” and they don’t work as they should without a lot of maintenance. What’s your favorite steel that’s held up the best?
There are a couple. Maxamet, magnacut, and zdp189. All three have been spectacular in my line of work. I still tend to favor 154cm. Not because it’s as solid as the others, but bc it’s so easy to bring back. Very little stone work needed, when i dull em out.
That's a Good looking knife. I hope your edge improves with a few more sharpenings. I have a couple where that was the case. My maxamet in particular. Enjoyed the video.
I’ve heard from a few people now that has issues with maxamet. Hopefully I’ll start seeing something improve soon
Sorry to hear about your Benchmade. I have a P3 in Maxamet that chipped badly with light office use and chipped more during sharpening. (80 grit Edge. Pro diamond matrix up to 4000 grit 6 stone progression). I have heard that hard steel gets burned on the Sharpening belts at the factory. Supposedly 5-8 sharpenings in the good metal is revealed and the knife will perform as advised. The problem is all the Sharpening will take years off the expected life of the blade. If I send it back to Spyderco they may decide to sharpen it and return it. (Back to square one). So.. I feel your pain. 😭. Thanks for the video 😎👍
Yea 5-6 sharpening is excessive to get to good steel. Wild how each batch can yield such varying results. My maxamet has performed admirably. I can say, using such a coarse diamond, will cause the apex to crack. I wouldnt start on anything lower than a 240 sic or coarse dmt. Something about the aggressive diamonds causing more damage. I did a similar experiment with my 140 aotoma. By the time i switched to another stone, the apex just cracked off in large chuncks
Great video. Mad sharpening skills!
Thanks 👍
I’ve got a BM 940 with s90v & it did the same thing . It was real chippy (or I thought) with light use , but it started getting better after the 3rd or the 4th sharpening if I’m remembering right . I’m not saying yours will do the same thing but mine did get better , I thought it was fatigued steel as you say , was what was wrong with mine . I’ve got the original Freek & I’m lovin it , all but Benchmades’ screwed up bevels
Yea i didnt even think about the steel being fatigued. This is the second sharpening. Maybe i will start seeing some improvements soon. If not no big loss. I will just keep sharpening till it needs a blade replacement. lol. Maybe the next one will be better
beautiful sharpening
Thanks for checking it out 👍
I had a couple of knives in S90V, all of them had a tendency towards micro-chipping. It´s a great steel for cutting cardboard, but if you have anything with like nylon fibres or something, it dies fast. And it´s a B to sharpen xD
I’ve used s90v and haven’t found it to be any more chippy than say, s30v. It does lose its high sharpness quickly. I know many have made statements that it maintains a toothy edge for a long time, but i haven’t seen that. Once my high sharpness goes, I’ve tended to chip it out 😂
thanks ... always enjoy
My pleasure! Thank you for watching,
Nice job as always. I hope that your edge improves with this sharpening. This is a nice knife, it’s too bad that the steel is not performing to its potential.
Indeed. I like the looks, weight, and carbon fiber. The more folks I talk to about it though, the more I think the steel was just damaged at factory. Couple more sharpening should tell the tale.
Yeah, I really hope that it’s just over-stressed steel from Benchmade. Nice knives but hit and miss on steel treatment, assembly and quality control.
I think with a burr this stubborn and the damage it took, you probably have some overheated steel from the belt grinder on there that will be out after a few sharpenings. Either that or they messed up the HT.
S90V is so loved because it doesn't have a stubborn burr and isn't really chippy but still offers edge retention close to S110V..
Also basically every CPM steel works better with a full diamond progression and a coarser finish. Not doing that probably adds to the problem..
Interesting thing, I didn't notice the burr at all this sharpening. That is, it was not an issue to remove. You are most likely correct.
I’m impressed how well you do that free hand. I just got the KME system with 140 up to 1500 diamond stones and I’m waiting on the 9 and 6 micron lapping films and a 4 micron kangaroo strop. In the meantime I practiced with the diamond stones and got good results but you make this look so easy on bench stones. I wonder if you’re experiencing carbide tear out on the s90v. I’ve read you really have to use only diamond stones and leave the edge a little toothy for best performance and avoid tear out.
I think carbide tear out is either a myth, or it’s so small and insignificant, it doesn’t matter. I’ve never noticed an issue, or difference in sharpness. Either way, i am not a fan of diamonds. I would avoid them at all costs, unless i had no other choice. Silicone carbide is a far better option in my opinion. If you must use diamonds, i would point you towards the resin bonded stones. Like Venev, or even the King 1k. There are several other brands out there, including naniwa, and one from korrin, if i am not mistaken.
@@Jef dammit lol I am new to sharpening and just bought a diamond stone. Why wouldn't you use one?
They are way too coarse and remove more material then needed. Even on a “light sharpening” they take off more steel than is required.
The last few sets i bought had serious problems. Damage to the actual plates that caused the edge to slam into the steel, among other things. The biggest problem was diamond size inconsistencies. The fine stone (dmt) had diamonds that were more like extra coarse in size. I will say dmt customer service was fantastic, but i never got the issue resolved. Same flaws were on the replacement plates they sent to me.
Finally, the laminate that the diamonds are attached to, wears away, and chips off, after heavy use. For me it isn’t a huge issue, as i rarely used em. For someone using them daily, you’ll see your plates wear out quickly. Atoma plates seem to be better quality. If i were to use them, that would be the brand i’d go with.
All that, and then it really boils down to just personal preference. I don’t like the feedback diamonds have. I dislike the scratch patterns. They are very deep and difficult to remove. When it comes to stones, i just like water and sic stones more. Feedback, speed, scratch pattern, steel removal, and everything else they offer. The only real perk diamond plates have, is that they require little maintenance.
@@Jef can't thank you enough for your help! I am going to return it. What stones do you recommend besides the gritomatic? I am having trouble finding those so I'm going with the next best thing that you recommend
I will add that I will almost exclusively be using them for S90v, CPM-Cru and S30v if that matters at all
Did your opinion ever change with s90v? I love the looks of this knife.
Not really. It’s tough stuff for sure. Holds a useable edge forever. Just not my favorite. Id rather use magnacut, or maxamet.
@@Jef any magnacut folders you recommend?
Hogue deka. Cheap for what it is. Similar to a benchmade bugout. Super light.
Curious. What do you do for a living where you can damage eges of "super steels" so quickly butting so many chips on the cutting edge?? Only a week??
Do apprecate your honest opinion of S90V steel in YOUR use. So many pocket-knife nerds go on and on about S90V. How it's the "latest and greatest". As if trying to market knives with this steel.
The harder a steel is...the higher the HRC...the more likely they are to chip. The cutting edge. So the USE is important. The type of steel used...should depend on what is your intended use.
I say for the average person S30V is good enough. Or S35V, S45V, or even S110V...heck V10 will work...just means more sharping.
WHetstones---best way ...if you're willing to put in the time to learn/practice. Most of us aren't. ;)
I am a maintenance tech for a cable/telephony company. Think comcast/charter/mediacom.
Heres a quick vid on a few things we do.
Mudd Knife in action
czcams.com/video/pLkpd63RBJ0/video.html
I have been wondering about Benchmade’s S90V Spyderco seems to do a good job. I have a Spyderco Military in S90v if I have a lot of cardboard to cut I pull it out.
I can't speak of Spyderco's s90v, as I've never used it. Benchmade's, so far, hasn't been impressive. I'd take s30v over it any day. We will see after a few more sharpening, if it improves.
Jef Jewell Let me know if you want to try a Spyderco Native 5 in S90v I have one I don’t use.
@@carknelson5895 lol you sure about that? Check out some of my IG page to see some of the "after use" photos of my knives. I go at em pretty hard. Would hate to damage your knife if you weren't expecting that sort of use
Jef Jewell It will be fine it’s just a 100$ Cuttlery shoppe orange light weight one.
Man I have a Benchmade mediator with s90v and I love the knife but I also had the same issue. Only had it for about 5 weeks but it seems I can hone it to razor sharp edge but it goes away fast.
S90v just wants to be toothy. Although it doesn't seem to hang onto that razor sharpness, it will hold a toothy working edge for a LONG time. I hated this stuff at first, but I've grown to enjoy it. What did you use to sharpen yours?
I got one of the benchmade guided field sharpeners. I typically use the fine ceramic too hone it. Unless there are chips then I'll use the diamond plates. I also use the strip after honing.
@@daveycrockett6622 Nice. I have debated buying one of the regular worksharp sharpeners for review, but just haven't gotten around to it yet. I'd like to get the one that allows you to change multiple diamond grits, and pivots with the knife
@@Jef I would definitely recommend the regular worksharp over the benchmade one. The coarse plate has "Benchmade" on it and I feel like you lose more grinding surface. Should have gotten the regular one. Lol
Let us know if it is chipping after a few sharpenings. Or. If the knife improves.
Will do 👍
The harder steels might hold an edge longer but are prone to chipping. There is no such thing as a perfect steel. I try to stay away from the Super hard steels. I'd rather have Tuff over hard(that's not what she said) lol
That's not always true. CPM Rex 45, which Spyderco runs around 65-67 hrc, is one of the steels that is LEAST likely to chip OR roll. It will resist rolling or chipping in situations where even the well-regarded CPM M4 would deform.
Toughness is only half of the equation, when looking for a steel that won't chip. 3V will roll, but not chip. 4V, despite being harder than 3V, will resist rolling and chipping, even in extreme situations.
S110V will chip much easier than lots of other steels. It's usually run at decent hardness, but still quite a bit softer than Rex 45. Even Maxamet will resist chipping more than S110V, despite being even harder(68-69 hrc) than Rex 45. S90V will chip less than S110V, but stainless steels will always have weaker edges, due to the chromium content.
Sometimes an edge is over-heated at the factory, during the grinding process. This ruins the temper at the edge, making for poor edge retention and lots of chipping or rolling. A few sharpenings usually removes enough of the overheated steel, to get the kind of performance the steel is supposed to have.
If this kind of stuff is interesting to you, check out the knife steel nerds website. Larrin, a metallurgy expert, does a lot of testing, research, and article writing, that you may find interesting. He has articles on things like edge stability(resisting chips/rolls), which requires toughness and hardness. He's also got lots of steels ranked for toughness, stain resistance, and edge retention.
I've always found benchmade M4 to sharpen like a dream. I dont have any other knives in m4 far as I know. s30v on the other hand i think I get worse results. anyone else?
That isn't the factory edge in the beginning of the video...
Did i state that it was the factory edges? I don’t recall. You are correct though it wasn’t factory
That wasn't meant to sound rude. I was just typing my thought. I'm on the second sharpening and not too impressed either. I'll carry it a bit more hopefully it improves.
No it didnt sound rude, and i hope my comment, also didnt come off that way. I just wasnt sure if i said in the video it was the factory edge. I misspeak often and was agreeing with ya. 👍
S90v is weird. It keeps a “working edge” for a long time. That initial hair whittling sharpness however, fades quickly. Some guys swear by the stuff. I personally could do without it
Yah that's what I'm finding too. So lastnight I cut up the days cardboard and then felt the blade, sharp. Then I sliced up half a kielbasa, glassed. It didn't slice meat well seems like the blade was getting pinched slowing down the slicing. It's out of pocket for now. I'll continue with it in my rotation. Today starts M390 bugout edc.
Thanks for the video we are on the same page with s90v
I've heard s90v has great edge retention and toughness, so what are you doing at work to dull the edge within days??
Mudd Knife in action
czcams.com/video/pLkpd63RBJ0/video.html
Lol
That wxplains why it chipped so fast
Maybe get a hard use instead of a fricken bugout
But s90v is supposed to have great edge retention 😂
Seriously though, i use ALL my knives in this way. Some are better than others, obviously. Zdp and maxamet, in particular
Microscopic evidence of why S90V is a flawed blade steel - it lacks toughness.
Just wondering what you cut ? Metal ? 😂
Super quick video showing two different splices i do at work
czcams.com/video/pLkpd63RBJ0/video.html
Yeah I would use cheaper knife to cut those wires! 😆
Cheap knives cant hold up to the work
Any update on this knife??
What would you like to know? I used it hard for about a month at work. Handle is comfortable. Maybe a tad small for some hands but i didnt find any problems. S90v holds a working edge for a decent amount of time although i chipped it after 2 weeks. Had to touch it up on some stones.
@@Jef How well the s90v was holding up but I think you answered that. Would you purchase this knife again if you had to go back to the day you purchased it? (I'm currently deciding if it's worth purchasing.)
Gee thats tough. I got this knife at a nice discount. They are charging way too much imo. If i had to do it again, with the same discount, sure. If i had to pay full price, no way. The s90v is good, although i have seen better. Buck marksman special edition comes to mind. That stuff was a nightmare to sharpen. So wear resistant. This one, not so much. I’m no heat treat specialist, but i think it is softer on the hrc scale, than is optimal.
@@Jef Thank you for the replies.
Do king stones grind this steel well? What about suihiro cerax?
I’ll have to try them. I can say shapton pro can sharpen them, but they struggle after 1k. Naniwa pro couldn’t remove the scratches after 1k. Since suehiro and king are friable, they may perform better. I’ll try it on video and see
@@Jef Suheiro Cerax are fantastic stones, but only when it comes to lower grits, up to 1000 grit at the most in my experience.
@@Jef King DeLyxe stones are okay, but a bit too soft for my liking, but they have some quite okay polishing stones. But they aren't in the same league as Naniwa Pro when it comes to polishing, even the Shapton Glass gives a better polish, even though they feel a bit "dead" to use, not much of the feedback I want from a polishing stone.
cerax are amazing