This Will Forever Change How You Glue Boards Together
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- čas přidán 23. 02. 2023
- Panel glue-ups can be a bit frustrating when the individual boards start sliding around on you. Clamping cauls are great, but tapering the cauls will allow them to flex and put an even amount of pressure along the entire panel.
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I accidentally said "chamfer" a whole bunch of times instead of "taper". I have no idea why I did that, but they're "tapered" cauls.
They are very extended chamfers ;P How would you go about gluing up 2 lumber pieces lengthwise where you don't want the glue joint to show much and they need to have strenght? Especially a darker essence like black walnut. Love your tips!
Wait? Doesn’t the taper work because your bowing the wood by clamping the sides. Can’t you just solve this by clamping the middle as well. The taper is essentially a bow in the opposite direction as pressure. It’s because the wood is under more pressure at the ends so it’s bowing.
Sorry if I am way of but I have done a lot of cnc work and this is a constant problem with cnc wood because clamping the outside means the center of the wood is actually under less pressure and so the downward force on the outside causes the pressure to push the wood up and away in the center. Since you don’t have to have an exposed side like you do in cnc I don’t understand why you can’t simply put and extra clamp in the center to fix the bowing.
Again if I am wrong my apologies. It just seems like taper to little or too much could basically make the board useless while just clamp the center is adjustable on the fly.
Still a great tip! Who cares!
I often tell others to listen to what I mean and not what I say. 🤣🤣🤣
Glad u mentioned it. I came here to comment on that. I thought you meant to say camber.
You’re the best! Please keep creating content…love the straightforward, helpful, lack of gimmicks way in which you help us woodworkers out here!
As a new learning/growing woodworker, tips like this are perfect in content, length and presentation. Much appreciated sir!
You really have some of the most practical and useful content on youtube. I am due for a glue up in a few days (probably turn into weeks knowing me) and this will be hugely helpful. I have clamping cauls already and often find these small gabs and just chalk it up to life lol but now this make so much more sense.
It always amazes me how the most simple things you show can make your life so much easier. Thank you Sir!
Short, sweet and too the point. You are the LPL of woodworking. Just love your stuff.
I have seen plenty of straight cauls, but the slightly tapered caul is new to me and makes perfect sense. Always great info and tips to remember.
traditionally, tapered is the norm.
Absolutely spot on. All my cauls have been "tapered" from the start. However just wrote TOP on the opposite side as well as tape on the contact side. Great tip for sure.
I created some of these years ago modeled after the bow clamp. The way I created the taper was to take a straight board and bow it, the run it through the table saw to rip one edge straight. Then I released it from the jig that created the bow and it snapped back leaving me a perfect arc. Then I ran through the planer to make a consistent width.
Wow! That's awesome! So simple and very understandable! I really appreciate your content friend. Im always educated & inspired by it!!
Wow! This is so utterly simple but complete genius. This is awesome!
Thanks again for sharing your woodworking experience and knowledge. Great video as always.
And I’ll say it again, your channel is in my top 3 youtube woodworking channels (3 way tie for first place!), and I like your innovative, non-stodgy style! Well done Sir!
Useful tip. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for making your video short and concise. Perfect info clearly stated
i've always read about making these types of cauls...but have never seen the reason demonstrated as clearly/easily as you have here. excellent post my guy....thanks!
This is was what I needed! Thank you
Awesome tip, 10/10. I've seen some other videos that attempted to explain how you can make 'tuned' cauls like these, based on both the length of the caul (more spring-y-ness) and on the degree to which you taper/crown the business side of the caul...
... and I am waiting for you now to explain this in your signature style so my brain accepts and understands it with the two variables. Think of it as 'advanced cauls' how-to.
I'm so often amazed with these little tips that have tremendous impact in setting up and finishing up. Stating that this would be due to me being a noob would not put credit where it is due. All these woodworking folks just being out here, showering us with these amazing tips and pieces of expert insight. Man, I love this.
Whenever I come across one of your videos I always watch because I know it will be short and packed with useful info thanks!
Phenomenal!!!! Thanks brother!
GREAT tip. Many times the simplest are the best! !! !!!
Jody, the simplest cauls I've ever seen. You're the best. 👍
Chuck.
Saw this in a Stumpy Nubs video. It works really well.
This makes perfect sense. Thanks, Jody - straight to the point and super helpful, as always!
Another great tip, Jodee. Great to see you pumpin out the videos. Keep it up, man.
Great technique!
Great tip, thanks for putting it out there.
Good tip. Learned a new word, caul, too.
Dudeeee thanks for the tip!
great tip!
thank you
This is freaking genius. Thank you.
No worries. It sounds good and is a great idea. Thanks.
Thanks for getting straight to the point! Very, very helpful tip here. Thanks!
Always great info and tips to remember.
I always get great tips and tricks from your channel. Thanks always for sharing your knowledge to as mere mortals
Interesting never thought of that I'm have to try it thanks for showing. I've done it with flat ones before worked ok
Thanks for sharing your really useful piece of knowledge.
Real simple and very helpful, nice explanation.
That's a great tip, thanks for sharing! I will definitely start using it in my next project.
That’s genius! Thank you!
Great idea, thanks for sharing.
Great tip!
Flipping them is the real tip. Thanks!
Great idea ,instant subscriber
Wow... how have I never thought of this. Thanks
really smart, I wouldn't have thought of that.
Great tip
Great tip!!
¡Qué sencilla y efectiva idea, gracias por compartirla!
Desde España, ¡gracias por tus vídeos!
thanks for showing the difference
Great Great Great!! Thanks so very much for this quick tip.
Well that’s good to know thanks for sharing, will definitely be doing this from now on
Great vid!
That is a ridiculously awesome method!! And it makes sense too! Thank you brother!
Thanks for that brilliant yet simple idea. Why didn't I think of that years ago.
Great tip! to gain the most stability in a glued up panel alternating the end grain will help keep the panel stable long term.
WOW! Amazing, you are amazing!! Brilliant 🤩
Great video
Bob
England
Awesome tip. Thanks. I use cauls all the time, this will help!
I love this channel
Nice short video and good tip. Thank you for not wasting our time for 10min video...
Brilliant!! I never realized that the same principle applies I've seen in loading a truck. Have you ever looked at an EMPTY 18-wheeler's flatbed trailer bed? They always curve up slightly toward the center, and that's so when they're weighted down under load they will straighten out level where they will provide the maximum resistance to deflection due to weight and going over bumps. In other words, you don't want the bed of the trailer to sag when you load it down. Same principle here. You need to apply a little English to "over straighten" your glue up pieces, and that will overcome the final friction the glue up boards present to the cauls, so the end result is a flat glue up.
Thanks, Lots of tips this week. You have been busy! I do like your work..
Acts similar to a spring/sprung joint. Nice trick!
thanks
Excellent tip Jodee. I learned this one a long while back. There actually used to be a commercial outfit that sells curved cauls with slots for clamps, but they're so easy to make from scraps, I could never justify the cost.
Bowclamp
@@corwind3888 Yep, thems the ones. Doesn't look like they're in business any more though.
@@NWGR Yeah, they were fairly expensive. On top of that, making a conceptually simple wooden tool to sell to woodworkers that's relatively easy to make probably isn''t the best of product strategies. lol Does get a little trickier though for wider glue ups.
Funny how one small tip like this can save you SO MUCH TIME! Thanks
They you for sharing
Amazing!
Thats neat
Awesome stuff
Scary simple !
Smart.
I don't know what is going on with the CZcams Algorithm, because I am subscribed to this channel but have missed a bunch of its videos. So after being so impressed with the Clamping Tips video I am working my way through the ones I have missed, and have immediately learned another truly stand out tip. I really like how your mind works.
I had to hit the like button on this one… lot of new guys need to see this. Hope your vid gets out to the masses. You hear that CZcams algorithm!? Nice work bud, clear, concise and short. As it should be. :)
I've seen a commercial version of this where they've calculated the exact curvature (for the material and thickness of the caul) so it applies even pressure, but I'm sure this will do just fine for most of us and is really easy and quick to do.
Please ignore my question. I went back and listened again to your video. It makes sense now.
Like a sprung glue joint. Genius.
It’s an old trick I used when I was fairly new to woodworking but properly flattened and jointed wood should not need anything. Let your glue tack up a little to cut down on slipping.
It all in the prep.
been doing that for over 50 years/ I am 74 retired woodworker
Time to taper my calls, obviously it improves the performance, thanks !
Practical and effective as is seen in the video. Also, you seem to align the grains to prevent warping. Even though straight tempered and strong glue achieved, will the end product still insist on wrapping following individual boards tendency?
What is a good rule of thumb for how much to taper on each side of the middle?
Very interesting to see basic structural engineering principles applied in a learned experience sort of way. Nice work Jody, as my engineering would have "gotten in the way" of this alternate approach. I would have naturally either gone with a material with higher intrinsic stiffness, e.g. steel, or increased resistance to bending moment by changing the cross section, e.g. going with an I-beam, or both. What you did was sort of "go with the flow" and in fact there is a calculation for the ideal curve you should put in the taper to provide constant pressure across length with point loads at each end. Don't think anyone is going to car about that, lol. Very slick, lateral thinking - classic smarts from people with practical experience.
You’re right, no one cares about the formula to get the perfect taper, “close enough” is tantamount to perfect in most situations.
It is however, extremely useful to have a grasp of the concepts at play, such that you can apply them to a wide variety of tasks
great info 👌how much taper do you have ?? like 1millimeter pr 100 millimeter ??
I still have some of the old glue-up contraptions that automatically do this from when I first started woodworking and thought this was the way to go. they are large and ungainly, and I rarely use them for small glue-ups and over time, woodworkers have gotten away from those and many young woodworkers don't know such things existed.
I like to use the Rockler 4-way Equal Pressure Clamp. Kind of the same idea, but not tapered.
Cambered calls some people call them. Can also get the same effect with a jointer if you don’t have a hand plane!
What about just using a third clamp to press the centre of the board? That's how I did it.
So it is tapered on bottom and top that does the best? I heard you say tapered on the bottom. It also saw the tape on the top too.
Thanks for the video. I will definitely be trying this on my next glue up. It looks like you only took of about 1/16”, am I correct?
Very informative. Would it be possible to add some close-up pics of the taper as I am a little fuzzy on exactly what you mean? Thanks.
CAUL!! GLUING CAUL!
Curious if you could walk through how fixing one end diturbs the middle or other end. I fix/flatten both ends and middle, but often end up with a glue up that (slightly) warps with the enforced prestress after....do you have this issue?
Here’s a comment for the algorithm. Thanks for another great video & tip.
I have yet to do a big glue-up, so I'm curious: what happens to the tension between the boards that are forced into alignment? Does it eventually relax?
This trick can be applied to steel.
A slightly curved steel bar works great.
Amazing pressure can be transferred into the middle of your work holding.
Just woke up. Watched this. It's going to be a good day.
Where did you get that large panel clamp please?
What kind of parallel bar clamps those?