Tips for a Panel Glue Up
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 4. 03. 2018
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If you need wide, solid wood panels for your next project, youâre going to have to glue them up. Doing a good panel glue up isnât hard, but there are specific steps you need to follow, and things you need to take care of, to make sure the panel glue up turns out well. A well composed panel can easily end up looking like one large piece of wood, with no seams at all.
WHAT ARE WE LOOKING FOR?
There are a number of things to keep in mind as you work on gluing boards up to make a large panel. They include color match, grain pattern match, quality of the joints, amount of glue used, and more. Youâll learn about all of these things in this video.
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QUESTIONS WEâLL ANSWER FOR YOU
There are some very common questions about panel glue up that weâll take care of for you in this video. Should you use biscuits or dominoes or dowels in the joint? How do you know the joints are sound? How much glue should be used? How large should the glue up be compared to the final panel required for the project? Whatâs the best way to handle squeeze out? Youâll get answers to all of these questions.
WANNA KNOW MORE?
This is a pretty comprehensive video, but WoodWorkers Guild of America has a great depth of information ready to help you out. If you want to go even more in depth, weâve got it for you, and you can learn more on gluing up panels.
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I liked this one, no overt talking; no bragging, no fluff or bullshit. Straight to the point without any annoying music. Thanks George!
Great video! Love the simplicity.
Thank you. Very informative and direct to the point.
best glue up I have seen. I am paying for a bad glue up right now on my grandsons desk top. lots of planing in progress. thanks for posting
I think it's worth remembering that beauty is subjective. I do like a constructed look in my panels because I like remembering the work that went into making them fit together well. Your mileage may vary, of course.
Nice point!
Awesome information as always George when I first saw the tip about if you need the space how to lay the boards so the glue runs down the seem I was just like ooohhhh and now thereâs no other way I place my glue ups. Thank you George.
Great information. Concise and to the point.
Thanks. Probably the best tutorial about glue ups I've watches. Answered all of my questions about pressure, etc.
Thank you.. you are very clear to understand.
Excellent information, thanks!
Thank you sir! I think I picked up at least 3 corrections to my joining process. Like not wiping before glue is gelled a bit. Subscribed!
Thanks for sharing. I always get something useful from your videos. Using a little less glue and not so much pressure on my clamps.
Agree. I've been cranking the daylights out of my clamps! I guess tighter isn't better!
Thanks, great tip
exactly what I was looking for. Thanks kindly
Good the wall
Fantastic video - thanks SO much!
great video very informative. Thank you, a very grateful beginner
great tips man. thanks
Excellent demonstration.
Thank you!
Thank You Sir for the Info!!! đđ
Great video wtih a good explanation. Thanks!
Great video and process. Thank you for sharing.
excellent vid. God Bless!
Nice Tips. Thanks . :)
About to do my first glue up with biscuits, perfect timing, thanks for the great insight!
Never glue up more boards than you can handle before glue starts to set up. Dont need to do it all in one shot.
Glue ups on thicker bards, as well as wider. Is there a different clamping process, and is the pressure the same? Do you have to place clamps on each joint to insure flatness? Thank you, very educational.
Hi there! I am new to this and really enjoying it. At 0:35 you mention the boards are "ready to go" and that that means you have already "jointed the edges." Could you explain how to do that, or is there already a related link you would recommend on that subject?
Thanks for the help! How much pressure is recommend with clamping?
Hi. thanks for the useful information. I have a question regarding getting rid of squeeze-out wood glue after it completely dried (Obviously, I realized it too late). I am making a dining table top out of maple wood. The glue is completely dried now. What is the best way to get rid of the hardened glue for the tabletop?
I just added dimension to my panel and cut tongues and grooves. Probably not the easiest but worked well
I'm making a six board panel. Should I glue all 6 at once or glue 3 panel, glue 3 panels and then join the 6 panels with one last glue application? Thanks.
What product do you use to clean the clamps from glue built up?
I appreciate this tutorial! Well Explained. How do I overcome cupping after the glueup? 3/4" material. I'm trying NOT to plane down anymore.
During the glue up .. run two pieces of RHS stee top and bottom of the pannel l .. ( example use 3mm wall thickness tube steel like 40 by 40 if doing a large dining table.. )
use good quality F clamps either side left and right.. So thire for .. this will take the ( cupping ) out of the glue up proses..
and if you had to leave the glued pannel over night in the shed.. repeat the proses of the RHS top and bottom.. hope this helps
I like the wood
All this time I thought I needed more clamps đ€
I always clean up my glue with a damp cloth and wipe the whole board down.
Hear a lot of conflicting opinions on how long to keep the clamps on for something like this. Recommendations? 4 hrs, 8 hours, 24 hrs?
what about happy / unhappy thing ?
Great video, can you offer some tips on how to do panel blew up to get the joints perfect as you did in this video for someone who does not have or access to a jointer hand or powered, or a planar. Also you didn't say anything about glue squeeze out that is touching the bar clamps and or hidden underneath them and how to deal with this situation.
You will want some way to joint the edges. If you don't have a jointer, a router is a good option. This can be done with a hand held router, or on a router table. I prefer a router table approach, but either way will get the job done. Search for "joint with a router" on the wwgoa.com site and you will find some instruction on this.
For glue squeeze out you can either remove right away with a damp cloth, or wait a half hour or so until the glue sets up and remove it with a chisel. Any glue under the clamps can generally be removed with a paint scraper if you catch it within an hour or so. So, wait an hour to remove the clamps, and then hit the glue right away with a scraper.
Have you priced router tables recently?
Jointing with a trim router and a flush trim bit, bottom or top bearing, works well for me as I don't have a jointer. You also need a good straight edge to ride the bearing on, I use an aluminum strip. All-in that whole setup maybe costs you $150-180 or less depending on brands you buy.
Vince Baker
For glue ups instead of setting your boards on the clamps like in this video you can set your boards on 2x4's. Maybe cover the 2x4's in packing tape or put a heavy coat of wax on them so your boards don't stick. Then clamp from the top side. You might need a 3rd clamp on the underside to counteract any cupping. I hate getting glue on my clamps.
I would really like to know what type of clamp you are using, and how far apart are you spacing them?
Hello Anthony,
Thank you for the question!
Here are the clamps: amzn.to/2x5fzhA
Your clamp spacing will depend on the width of the material that you are clamping. For wider planks you can space out the clamps more. Typically you will want a clamp spacing of 6-12", but the main thing is to not leave any visible gaps between planks as you are gluing up. It's better to use too many than too few.
If you have any other questions, please chat, email, or call Customer Service.âŻ
Sincerely,
Sarah
Wood Workers Guild of America Video Membership
Do you ever have problems with bowing with the clamps all on one side? I try to alternate my clamps to prevent bowing and if necessary 2 scrap boards with packing tape clamped on each edge to hold straight.
Hello,
I occasionally have this problem when using pipe clamps, but I do not
see the problem when I use parallel bar clamps which is the type used in
this video.
Thanks,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
WoodWorkers Guild Of America we use bar clamps mostly
Run tape on all the edges where the joints are. Then wipe off glue after clamping. Easy.
we hate taping off, I'd rather scrape off when rubbery
If the squeeze out hardens before you clean it, can you just sand it off later?
Hello Cheng,
Yes, it will work, but it is a lot harder than removing it while it is still flexible.
Hope this helps,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
what kind of clamping jig is that?
Any need for cauls (I think that's how it's spelt) seen many videos with mixed responses
Cauls ... Are very usfull in large glue ups .. like dining table's... coffee table's and if your borads have a slite bow in them ( like 2 or 3 mill ) cauls are very helpful to keep the pannel flatt!!
What about the squeeze out on the bottom of it that is going to be dripping onto the clamps? Doesn't that glue your panels to the clamps?
Hi Joshua,
PVA glue won't effectively bond a piece of wood to a metal clamp as it
requires penetration into the material for a good bond. It can take
some work to scrape if off of a metal clamp, however.
Hope this helps!
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
Joshua Smith it doesn't glue it to the point where you can't get it off, I've had the black color of the clamp leach onto the glue but that gets chiseled and sanded away. Also wax paper is your friend if you're worried about that happening.
Hello, I was wondering if you could help me. I recently made a panel glue up similar to yours and I also used dowels. however since I did not have clamps the job came out sloppy. I worry about the glue up breaking where the boards connect. if you have any advice on how to fix my terrible glue up please let me know asap.thanks
Hello. With dowels in place I doubt that your panel will break. The only way to fix it would be to rip the panel along the glue lines, joint, and re-glue with clamps. Thanks Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
thank you!
If you were doing that for sides of a dresser would you have to worry about wood movement
what if we have 2 panels....one that is horizontally flat on the table, and another that is vertically up? what is the best way to bind them together (makes an L when done) ? Any videos on that?
Great question! I have forwarded your question to our experts. Please allow 1-2 business days for their response. We will post it here. Thanks!
If these are solid wood panels you will have to take into account that the panels will be expanding and contracting. I would treat it like a breadboard edge and use joinery as shown in this illustration:
(NOTE: I cannot attach JPG of illustration. If you would like this illustration, please provide your email address or email us directly at wwgoasubscription@program-director.net and request information on Ticket #37466.) Thanks!
Paul
What make of clamps are those? And what size?
What's the brand of clamps you are using?
Hello Moses,
Bessey Revo: amzn.to/2Hr7wxD
Hope this helps,
PaulWoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
How you manage the glue brush at the end of the job?
Hello. Just rinse thoroughly with water and you can reuse over and over.
Thanks
Paul-Woodworkers Guild of America
Depending on the wood, the glue is not stronger than the wood. Maple joints will show an adhesive failure (interface between the adhesive and the adherend) under a transverse tensile load
Great tips. How do you get the glue off of the clamps.
Hello Ron,
Thank you for contacting us.
I use a paint scraper. The sooner you can scrape off the glue, the easier it will come off.
If you have any other questions, please chat, email, or call Customer Service.âŻ
Sincerely,
Sarah
Wood Workers Guild of America Video Membership
Use paste wax on the metal bars, the glue just peels off.
Traduire en Francais.Mercie
Sir thanks for the video...one question..what glue a you using?
Titebond
@@dougsaunders8109 thanks again
What is the name of those table clamps you used?
Hello Brad,
They are called parallel bar clamps. Here you go: amzn.to/2x5fzhA
Thanks,
Paul
Wood Workers Guild of America Video Membership
@@Wwgoa: are those different from regular bar clamps?
@@chengliu872 If by "bar clamps" you mean something like a pipe clamp or F style clamp, then yes. Parallel clamps (well good ones anyway) stay parallel between the two faces and make glue ups like this much easier and more consistent. They are very pricey though, so I'd go with a cheaper option if you don't plan on using them frequently.
is flipping the endgrain with each board common to avoid board curling?
It is common but not necessary if you are using stable lumber. I always optimize for best appearance rather than worry about end rings. I have never had a problem with this approach.
Your wrong, I worked in a commercial wood shop making raised panel doors, always alternate end grain
I noticed orientation of end grain to avoid cupping wasn't mentioned? I thought that was more important than matching face grain
Hi Josh,
If you are using stock that is fully dry and stable you don't need to worry about alternating the orientation of growth rings. If the stock is not stable, then alternating growth rings can help offset the movement but will create a washboard effect on your table top, so the best advice is to use a moisture meter and be sure that the stock has acclimated to your shop environment for a few days or longer before making any cuts.
Hope this helps,
Paul
WoodWorkers Guild of America Video Membership
@@Wwgoa Thanks for the reply. What MC percentage should I be aiming for?
@@swempthebemp 22% or less and let acclimate in it's new space about a week before working, so I heard..lol
What is the best way to store these panel for long term ?
The best approach is to attach them immediately to the base. If you want to build them ahead, I would suggest storing them as you would lumber that is drying. spacers between layers to promote air circulation, and weight on top.
@@Wwgoa thank you !
Glubot and silicone brush titebond 30 minutes
Also you can align boards edges with Matthias' long reaching C clamps.
xl have you ever tried 2 boards with packing tape on the edges to brace the boards straight? The tape is used to prevent the glue from sticking to the boards clamped to the ends.
what are you talking about
I found stage 2 glue to be weak.
What do you use?
What is stage 2 glue? I normally use Titebond 3.
Ok thanks. Wood glue is organized in 3 stages, or 3 levels. Stage 1, and 2 are basically elmers glue.
dpqbpqb dpqbpqb I'm a fan of titebond 3
It appears that he is using Titebond 1.
Titebond 1 is extremely strong. I'd use Titebond 3 if you need your project to be waterproof and Titebond 2 if the joint will be taking an unusually large amount of force or humidity. You could use Titebond 3 for everything I guess, but it's more expensive and unnecessary for most projects.
I have seen many times the plain glueup boards like this without domino or biscuit joints got cuping badly.
Just some added tips... Industry standard is you don't want a board wider than 4". This can lead to stress and structure concerns. It will also reduce cupping, bowing, warping as the smaller boards will fight the ones next to it during wet summers or dry winters. Also, making it look good is ideal for wood working but you should also look at end grain. If you cut a board apart and then glue it back together in the same positions it may warp, bow, or cup just like it would have, like nothing was done to it. If you flip one board so that the end grain is opposite this can reduce the cup/warp/bow the panel will or would have taken.
(((((())))))))((((((( = Flipped middle of three boards so that grain is opposite. Should try and alternate ever other board in a panel. (If i could turn the parentheses 90 degrees this would be more appropriate. What i have shown is quarter sawn lumber which is more expensive and wouldn't need this process as much due to the tight grain and straight up and down grain)
This is a science and biology thing. When the boards swell in summer and shrink in dry winter the boards will fight each other and "should" keep each other from deforming. Also, the cells in the wood will swell and shrink no matter what. So the theory is that like a gravel road, even though it's bumpy and rough and can swell and change, it still looks flat from a distance. The flipped grain should help reduce the ebb and flow and still make it look somewhat flat years from now. If the grain is all the same way the cells will replicate the shrinking swelling effect in the same direction and then a deformation maybe more noticeable.
I use Red Oak and the first table I ever made is still perfect using these tips. Only damage is from my wife mopping the floor and hitting the legs with water. Have to re-wax the legs from time to time.
I donât agree Trevor. Always arrange the boards for the best look.
I do often see tables in restaurants with lots of narrow boards. Lots to be desired in a home.
@@aj7470 you are wrong when it comes to bowing he is dead on and not the first to say, I was thinking the exact thing and depends on the wood and the environment in which it will breathe.
It donât remember saying anything about boards bowing. I always pick out the best looking boards with grain that has harmony.
If the wood is dry and the top fastened properly to the base everything should be good.
Trevor mentions flipping the boards in narrow strips. Thatâs sure looks a lot like a cutting board to me.
Unless Iâm not reading his post right . đ€·ââïž
@@aj7470 how dry, what climate and what wood are you using where humidity is not a factor. What kind of cut; quarter, plain or rift. Did you buy from a mill or big box and did you acclimate to your environment depending on moisture content all come into play. Fine furniture making and a DIY are too different things, you get what you get. We can all glue and nail wood together and call it a table.
I live in the desert south west coast.
We see Mc of our boards typically 8 to 10 %
Your climate must be very humid if your having problems with warping.
Are you a fine furniture maker?
Please what type of glue do you used?
Great question! Please watch this space. Responses typically take 1-2 business days. Thank you!
George uses Titebond 3 for most of his panel glue ups.
I too will something make and glory in the making.
what type of glue
I was wondering the same thing đ€ ive never done this before...what kind did you use?
I believe thatâs Tightbond.
6:07 "bloop, bloop"
I'm gonna have to say that every glue up now
Sorry, I was just curious on what glue I should use...
Many many typs of glue to use .. all depends on what the glue up is use for? Inside use or out door use ? ..
@@thoughtsfrom3am919 outdoor preferably
@@drmg735 Polyurethane glue is good for out door use .. it has a short work use to play with .. So work fast to get the borads in the clamps ..i have used sika bond... tech grip .. can buy it though out Australia but I'm sure it's available worldwide
@@thoughtsfrom3am919 thatâs all good, I live in Australia myself
@@drmg735 ahh noice!! I wasn't sure where you were from..
Ohh I forgot to mention that glue ( foam's up ) can buy that glue at Bunnings
am i the only one trying to comprehend the sign on the door in the background? lol must be a troll
Hello. It is a fragment of a poem by Robert Bridges. Almost the same words.
I love all beauteous things,
I seek and adore them;
God hath no better praise,
And man in his hasty days
Is honoured for them.
I too will something make
And joy in the making;
Althoâ to-morrow it seem
Like the empty words of a dream
Remembered on waking.
Good, informative video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. But I gotta bust your chops; for a tattooed man that knows his way around a wood shop, it took me by surprise seeing you spread glue on a 3/4" thick board with a brush. Do you also drink beer with a straw? :D :P
lol from Texas
True. I use my finger. What about you?
That is a very long neck
Biscuits or dominos, but not dowels?
Dowels are just as good, or better.
Quick easy access to many projects with Stodoys plans.
I don't know where these guys come from he didn't even mention the most important part of gluing up panels you must kerf the boards this means on the end of the board one groth ring is up the next must be down to keep the panel flat over time I watched this whole video and he never talked about the fundamentals I wish I had time to make videos check out my buisness emricks cabinets and woodworking I'm a master carpenter with 30 years of experience and please properly educate yourselves and kerf all glue up panels or your doors will crack and you'll be making boomerangs lol
So you would arrange the growth rings in the end grain. Without any care how the top looks ?
That sounds odd from someone with so many years experience.
@@aj7470 all wood is not created equal or cut and preserve that way, know wood before you try to tell a veteran woodworker he has odd thoughts about how to woodwork.