You are doing divine like work in The fact you made a mercruiser outdrive video that was to the point and actually easy enough to fallow along with It didn't make me want to click it off in the first 15 seconds like many outdrive videos available. Not saying the other creators weren't trying to be helpful. But man I have spent days reading service manuals and searching online for info on repair of these old drive/ motors What a PIA. Rant over..
And if anyone wants to know. He forgot to mention the throttle up front is in neutral. Disassemble cables. Push in gear box cable. Measure 6" from center to center on the holes. Reattach gear box cable. Then adjust remote cable to fit perfectly. "THEN" back off four turns. It makes it longer for gear box to ensure gears mesh better. More but so to speak. Then make sure your engagement in true with boat off. Put in reverse, turn prop. It needs to engage. Same with forward. Then start boat. Of course with water on outdrive hooked up. Then listen to engagement smoothness. Reverse and forward. Should sound relatively smooth with a little gear sound when meshing.
On this exact same engine, the pin broke while we were out on the water and we almost couldn't get back. Wouldn't shift at all. Luckily we had the trolling motor and were only a half mile from the marina. Do you have the exact part number for that bolt plus the codder pin? (upper right by your pencil tip at the 2:24 mark)
NOTE: Cable 1: 6" is Center to center on the holes in the brass pin to the end of the cable. Cable 2: should be 3" + or - 1/8", THEN back off 4 turns. :)
Nice video Mark. I have almost the exact same boat. I had my boat repaired at the shop with new billows and a new shift cable. The boat shifts into drive without issue. But for reverse, 95% of the time it just kills the engine and does not engage. How would this procedure differ when just tuning for reverse?
The procedure is exactly the same for both forward and reverse gear. However, you can make minor adjustments to the remote shift cable (vs the initial guess of 4 turns).
Excellent video I have an issue with the engine stalling when going back to neutral from both forward and reverse. I’ve been told it’s in the lower shift cable sticking ? You mentioned to adjust the upper remote cable ? Should I adjust upper or lower ?
It could be the cut out switch incorrectly adjusted. The switch is beside the cables and it will make the engine cut out for a fraction of a second to take pressure off the clutch when going back into neutral. before messing with the cables and adjustment, check the switch. Look for a metal tab, usually has rollers on the end.
@Mark mine is cutting out when moving back to neutral. What must be checked or adjusted with the cut out switch. The revs drop for a second when shifting back but half the time it stalls the engine
That would be the button getting tapped by the cable ... first, Make sure the SLOT is adjusted for the cable going to the outdrive. Should be on the "lower" position. The dogs on the shift 'clutch' in the outdrive are positive contact dogs, and they 'push/pull' on the cable when shifting out of gear, that push/pull operates the sprung lever that "taps" the shift interrupt button. What sometimes happens, is the cable to the remote gets corroded or kinked and causes the assembly to stick, so the button gets pressed long enough for the motor to die. Same can be from corrosion on the cable to the outdrive, but it's easiest to check the remote cable first. Take the remote cable off, and actuate the lever by hand, and see if it still stalls. If it doesn't, then check that the remote lever moves freely when not attached. If it does, then play with the barrel adjustment (reduce or lengthen the throw distance by a turn or two)
Great video. I just bought a boat (first time boat owner) and was looking for a video referencing a "hard shift" when put into gear. Your video doesn't talk about that but I noticed the same sound when it was put in gear. Is it safe to think that sound is normal?
Yes, if you are "getting into gear" without all the ratcheting sounds (forward and reverse), then the shift cable is adjusted correctly. Going somewhat "hard" into gear is normal.
I switched gear oil, I use Royal Purple now 75/140.. Quieted the leg down quite a bit (smoother shifting into gear)... Was using amsoil before.. Just FYI
I was having trouble getting into forward gear so I took it all apart and I can only adjust the cable to about 5 1/2" which makes sense that its not able to push in far enough to engage. It was about 5" so is working better. Is this a sign that the cable just needs replaced or an issue with the outdrive?
If you still have room on the threaded rod, but can't get the cable to turn past 5-1/2 " that sounds like something isn't right in the outdrive, or possibly wrong cable part (unless you know it was right to start with). Also make double sure you follow the procedure put a little pressure on the gearbox cable and keep the prop locked.
My boat works in reverse forward out of water turns but in the water. All the engine does is run but the prop won't turn at all. Does anyone know if this is going to be a nightmare? Please help
Ok so - Mine "locks" in forward but i can continue to turn it - in reverse it never "locks" - this is with the shift cable removed from the mechanism and operated by hand - have i lost something in the unit / has something let go? - With the engine running it does nothing - no forward - no reverse whether operated by hand or the control - reverse trips the kill switch when connected to the control .. I did drain the lube and didn't see metal or water - We were cruising about 3000rpm when it just let go - there was audible clicking from the rear .. Troubleshooting steps/tips? do I need to pull it?
My first recommendation would be to follow this adjustment procedure. It sounds like the gear box shift cable has naturally stretched from use and just needs adjusting.
I do all that on mine and then the engine dies when shifting into reverse; if i don't do the 4 turns,then all is well, but i am afraid of ruining something; what are the 4 turns for ? the throw on my upper cable is 3 in and 3/16ths a bit over the max allowed (3 in + --1/8 th)
You can make minor adjustments to the remote shift cable (vs the initial guess of 4 turns). Just try one at a time in either direction. The 4 turns guess is for normal "slop" in the cable dimensions, mechanism, stretch, etc.
when you do the last four turns of the barrel are you increasing the distance between two points or decreasing the distance between the two pinned points? Thank you!
This is my husbands post but he clearly doesn’t read the comments 😂. This boat runs better now than when we bought it. The marina we bought it from couldn’t believe he was able to fix this. We’ve put LOTS of hours on this boat over the summer and never had a single issue after he made these adjustments. I know that doesn’t answer your exact question, but hope it helps!
Yes. And, in reality, that dimension doesn't change from idle to full throttle anyway. The point of going to full throttle is to just ensure you're all the way in gear. (The remote shift cable really only moves when going in and out of gear, not when increasing throttle).
Yes, for my boat (some are different), the prop has clockwise rotation in forward gear when viewed from the stern. The reason you push counterclockwise in the procedure is to keep pressure on the gears (simulates the water pushing back on the prop - makes sense, right?)
Nice video Mark. I have almost the exact same boat. I had my boat repaired at the shop with new billows and a new shift cable. The boat shifts into drive without issue. But for reverse, 95% of the time it just kills the engine and does not engage. How would this procedure differ when just tuning for reverse?
It's the same procedure for forward AND reverse (sets the shifter for both at once). If the engine dies, it's something to do with the shift cutout switch. The switch is normally in the "open" position allowing 12v to pass to the ignition coil. When shifting from forward to neutral, the switch is designed to momentarily close, which grounds the circuit and kills the ignition. This effectively stops the engine for a split second in order to remove thrust from the drive and allow the clutch to disengage easily. This all happens so quickly that the brief interruption of power is normally not noticed. If the gear box shift cable is sticky, this could cause the shift cutout switch lever to push the switch and kill the ignition when going into reverse. Have someone shift into reverse while you watch the shift cutout switch mechanism and you'll likely see what's going on. You MIGHT also be able to find a happy medium by playing around with the "4 turns" in my procedure (maybe try 2 turns). Some have had luck with spraying silicon spray around the cutout switch mechanism and even into the gear box shift cable itself.
You are doing divine like work in The fact you made a mercruiser outdrive video that was to the point and actually easy enough to fallow along with It didn't make me want to click it off in the first 15 seconds like many outdrive videos available. Not saying the other creators weren't trying to be helpful. But man I have spent days reading service manuals and searching online for info on repair of these old drive/ motors What a PIA. Rant over..
And if anyone wants to know. He forgot to mention the throttle up front is in neutral. Disassemble cables. Push in gear box cable. Measure 6" from center to center on the holes. Reattach gear box cable. Then adjust remote cable to fit perfectly. "THEN" back off four turns. It makes it longer for gear box to ensure gears mesh better. More but so to speak. Then make sure your engagement in true with boat off. Put in reverse, turn prop. It needs to engage. Same with forward. Then start boat. Of course with water on outdrive hooked up. Then listen to engagement smoothness. Reverse and forward. Should sound relatively smooth with a little gear sound when meshing.
little feller is a great helper!!!!
Thanks for not asking me to subscribe and thanks for the info. Att away to get your stepson involved!
Mark you are a ledgend thanks from South Australia I am just getting to know my Mercruiser and this has helped a heap ! Cheers
Thanks!! This was the only video that actually made sense!!
Thanks!
Great description and very helpful, but, it would be vastly better to take the lick and show your method.
Thank you for making this video.
Thanks for your time Mark
Thanks so much for doing this video
Your SON did a great job!
On this exact same engine, the pin broke while we were out on the water and we almost couldn't get back. Wouldn't shift at all. Luckily we had the trolling motor and were only a half mile from the marina. Do you have the exact part number for that bolt plus the codder pin? (upper right by your pencil tip at the 2:24 mark)
So when adjusting the cable do i need to move the remote all the way down into forward gear and get someone to hold the prop is that right ?
My prop clunks in forward and reverse just like how you did at first. Would this also be the shift cable or something else?
The stud that connects to the shift cable that goes to the out drive. That stud is on a slide where do you set that stud to?
love it
NOTE: Cable 1: 6" is Center to center on the holes in the brass pin to the end of the cable. Cable 2: should be 3" + or - 1/8", THEN back off 4 turns. :)
Thanks, that helped a lot .
Nice video Mark. I have almost the exact same boat. I had my boat repaired at the shop with new billows and a new shift cable. The boat shifts into drive without issue. But for reverse, 95% of the time it just kills the engine and does not engage. How would this procedure differ when just tuning for reverse?
The procedure is exactly the same for both forward and reverse gear. However, you can make minor adjustments to the remote shift cable (vs the initial guess of 4 turns).
Hi I was just wondering if is adjustment for the switch. Mine's not operating right.
Thank you
Do you have speeds in reverse? We followed your setup and we only have one speed in reverse???
Excellent video
I have an issue with the engine stalling when going back to neutral from both forward and reverse.
I’ve been told it’s in the lower shift cable sticking ? You mentioned to adjust the upper remote cable ?
Should I adjust upper or lower ?
It could be the cut out switch incorrectly adjusted. The switch is beside the cables and it will make the engine cut out for a fraction of a second to take pressure off the clutch when going back into neutral. before messing with the cables and adjustment, check the switch. Look for a metal tab, usually has rollers on the end.
@Mark mine is cutting out when moving back to neutral. What must be checked or adjusted with the cut out switch. The revs drop for a second when shifting back but half the time it stalls the engine
@@warrickvr mines doing the same thing. Did you ever figure it out?
Did you figure it out? Mine also stalls when going back to neutral.
That would be the button getting tapped by the cable ... first, Make sure the SLOT is adjusted for the cable going to the outdrive. Should be on the "lower" position. The dogs on the shift 'clutch' in the outdrive are positive contact dogs, and they 'push/pull' on the cable when shifting out of gear, that push/pull operates the sprung lever that "taps" the shift interrupt button.
What sometimes happens, is the cable to the remote gets corroded or kinked and causes the assembly to stick, so the button gets pressed long enough for the motor to die.
Same can be from corrosion on the cable to the outdrive, but it's easiest to check the remote cable first. Take the remote cable off, and actuate the lever by hand, and see if it still stalls. If it doesn't, then check that the remote lever moves freely when not attached. If it does, then play with the barrel adjustment (reduce or lengthen the throw distance by a turn or two)
Thank you for your video.
Ask him if it would be Ok to call him Son.
the barrel is pinned for a reason, the cable sheath and nut are the adjustment points
Maybe you can do a video showing how to adjust without drilling ???
Great video. I just bought a boat (first time boat owner) and was looking for a video referencing a "hard shift" when put into gear. Your video doesn't talk about that but I noticed the same sound when it was put in gear. Is it safe to think that sound is normal?
Yes, if you are "getting into gear" without all the ratcheting sounds (forward and reverse), then the shift cable is adjusted correctly. Going somewhat "hard" into gear is normal.
If you don’t here any noise and just throttle is my adjustment wrong?
I appreciate the reply, thank you.
I switched gear oil, I use Royal Purple now 75/140.. Quieted the leg down quite a bit (smoother shifting into gear)... Was using amsoil before.. Just FYI
I was having trouble getting into forward gear so I took it all apart and I can only adjust the cable to about 5 1/2" which makes sense that its not able to push in far enough to engage. It was about 5" so is working better. Is this a sign that the cable just needs replaced or an issue with the outdrive?
If you still have room on the threaded rod, but can't get the cable to turn past 5-1/2 " that sounds like something isn't right in the outdrive, or possibly wrong cable part (unless you know it was right to start with). Also make double sure you follow the procedure put a little pressure on the gearbox cable and keep the prop locked.
Hi Mark, I am a little confused on which cable to adjust with the 4 turns ? The same 1 you drilled out ?
No. Its the REMOTE STATION shift cable (the one that goes to your shifter). And when I said "4 turns farther", I mean turn it so it's getting LONGER.
So just to be clear.. you had it in forward full throttle at the helm for both adjustments?
Yes
good point Taco great job !!!!
Thanks
My boat works in reverse forward out of water turns but in the water. All the engine does is run but the prop won't turn at all. Does anyone know if this is going to be a nightmare? Please help
Ok so - Mine "locks" in forward but i can continue to turn it - in reverse it never "locks" - this is with the shift cable removed from the mechanism and operated by hand - have i lost something in the unit / has something let go? - With the engine running it does nothing - no forward - no reverse whether operated by hand or the control - reverse trips the kill switch when connected to the control
..
I did drain the lube and didn't see metal or water - We were cruising about 3000rpm when it just let go - there was audible clicking from the rear
..
Troubleshooting steps/tips? do I need to pull it?
My first recommendation would be to follow this adjustment procedure. It sounds like the gear box shift cable has naturally stretched from use and just needs adjusting.
I do all that on mine and then the engine dies when shifting into reverse; if i don't do the 4 turns,then all is well, but i am afraid of ruining something; what are the 4 turns for ?
the throw on my upper cable is 3 in and 3/16ths a bit over the max allowed (3 in + --1/8 th)
You can make minor adjustments to the remote shift cable (vs the initial guess of 4 turns). Just try one at a time in either direction. The 4 turns guess is for normal "slop" in the cable dimensions, mechanism, stretch, etc.
when you do the last four turns of the barrel are you increasing the distance between two points or decreasing the distance between the two pinned points? Thank you!
Increasing
oil pressure in mercruiser 3.0 liters 80% it is normal for it to rise to that
👍🏼👍🏼
How does the shift perform with resistance on the water?
This is my husbands post but he clearly doesn’t read the comments 😂. This boat runs better now than when we bought it. The marina we bought it from couldn’t believe he was able to fix this. We’ve put LOTS of hours on this boat over the summer and never had a single issue after he made these adjustments. I know that doesn’t answer your exact question, but hope it helps!
No resistance at all. Shifts with ease, just like brand new.
So, the 6 inch setting is at full throttle ?
Yes. And, in reality, that dimension doesn't change from idle to full throttle anyway. The point of going to full throttle is to just ensure you're all the way in gear. (The remote shift cable really only moves when going in and out of gear, not when increasing throttle).
Sorta sounds like your bump switch isn't working all that well. Hard to tell from a video but I would give it a quick test if I were you.
Isn't clockwise foward?
That's what I thought...
Yes, for my boat (some are different), the prop has clockwise rotation in forward gear when viewed from the stern. The reason you push counterclockwise in the procedure is to keep pressure on the gears (simulates the water pushing back on the prop - makes sense, right?)
Diy guy
Nice video Mark. I have almost the exact same boat. I had my boat repaired at the shop with new billows and a new shift cable. The boat shifts into drive without issue. But for reverse, 95% of the time it just kills the engine and does not engage. How would this procedure differ when just tuning for reverse?
It's the same procedure for forward AND reverse (sets the shifter for both at once). If the engine dies, it's something to do with the shift cutout switch. The switch is normally in the "open" position allowing 12v to pass to the ignition coil. When shifting from forward to neutral, the switch is designed to momentarily close, which grounds the circuit and kills the ignition. This effectively stops the engine for a split second in order to remove thrust from the drive and allow the clutch to disengage easily. This all happens so quickly that the brief interruption of power is normally not noticed. If the gear box shift cable is sticky, this could cause the shift cutout switch lever to push the switch and kill the ignition when going into reverse. Have someone shift into reverse while you watch the shift cutout switch mechanism and you'll likely see what's going on. You MIGHT also be able to find a happy medium by playing around with the "4 turns" in my procedure (maybe try 2 turns). Some have had luck with spraying silicon spray around the cutout switch mechanism and even into the gear box shift cable itself.