Thanks! Read the shop manual for the shift cable adjustment a couple of times and it read as extremely complicated. Your video and explanation on the other hand was clear and easy to follow. I brought the laptop onto the boat and did the whole job in about 10 minutes with your help and the drive shifts like a charm.
Chris.. wonderful job as always!, explaining what you are doing and why...so well done compared to others who say, "move this, to there"...never explaining what they are talking about,, you always explain what you are doing and why,, well done!
Thank you ! This was perfect ! Mine was making a noise as when in neutral and would die when put into forward. I got up on the boat and followed along with you and 10 minutes later problem solved !! Great video and explanation!
Outstanding explanation been pondering this adjustment for longer than I Care to admit. Followed the video and restored function first try. Thanks for the video.
Hi thanks for the easy to follow instruction. My shift plate is a 1973 model however the outdrive was replaced in the mid 80's with a later model outdrive. I really didn't know which measurement to go with so I went with the 5 7/8" center to center shift cable mounting position and got it right. I assume the shift plate age would therefore be the determining factor. Anyways, was able to make the proper gear engagement adjustment on land. However once I went for a test cruise, I had to adjust the rear anchor pen negatively because I was slipping out of forward drive under a load. Once I moved the rear anchor pin back about and 1/8", it worked perfectly. Great video.
Great video, I just bought a 1989 Baja 190 sport and only had 300 hours on it. The boat is mint but the only issue was it not shifting all the way into gear. This will help so much and makes me at ease just to know its an adjustment issue.
Thank you so much for this! and the alignment video too. I've been restoring a 2850 bayliner bounty with twin 470's for the last two years and getting to the point of re-installing engines. Finding your video was like finding lost money in the washing machine.
This Bloke Was just Who I needed to get the job done ! Not only that, He's an Aussie - I lived in Many locations, Down-Under, and enjoyed My Stay, VERY much ! :-)
I adjust my boat by trial and error with boat on the water. This video is outstanding and textbook way to adjust with the boat in the shop. I highly recommend final adjustment be done with boat in the water for optimum results, The service manual for the alpha one drive says the same under the caption "in water tests". Most professional marine shops do not bother with the in water tests.
This is the best video I have found for adjusting these cables, only thing I have to add, is if they have factory crimped the brass adjusting screw on the shift cable barely drill right down on the Crip temples. Can you contact the actual cable, spray, a little WD-40, and with a little effort you will be able to adjust the shift cable
I figured as much. I'm not quit sure what it would be though. I suppose I can try and check the play clearances as you mentioned in your video or just do another adjustment? Thatnks again for all the info and the quick responses, it's very much appreciated!!
Thanks for a great video, really informative and it help me gather the courage to go at adjusting the shift cable on my Merc 5.0 220hp -05 with Alpha 1 gen 2 stern drive. I was having issues getting the boat into gear, bort forward and reverse which is why I wanted to try adjusting the cable. Whenever I put the remote forward or back to put it into gear (which is an original Morse remote in my CC Lancer 19' by the way), I was hearing a loud clicking/knocking noise and then the boat would slam into gear. Not very smooth and it made it hard to operate in tight spaces etc. Said and done, I adjusted the lower shift cable like you describe in the video (6" etc.) But I forgot to adjust the upper remote cable. I'm now having the following issues and I don't know if they might be solved by adjusting the upper remote cable or if I'm having some other issues: Reverse goes smoother into gear but I'm still hearing the knocking/clicking sound before the gear kicks in. Reverse also requires less movement in the remote shifter than before the adjustment Forward now requires far more movement in the remote shifter and I'm having the same kind of loud clicking/knocking sound before it slams into gear. Do you think there could be any issues using my Morse controller or should I adjust the remote cable in the way you advise anyway? I guess my main concern is the knocking/clicking, it feels like the cogs are engaging slightly/slipping before they actually engage and the gear slams into place. Sorry for the long post but could really use your input here! Thanks! Anton
@@chrisa660 Im knew to Inboard out boards , and a poor fellow, so when someone shares info to help others it's a blessing so again thanks so very much ...God bless.
Very helpful BUT 2 things to clarify: 1)The throttle needs to be in wide open forward in the beginning and wide open reverse at the end. 2) when he adjusts the barrel, he says one direction and goes the other. Do as he does, not as he says
Sounds like you might have crud and/or salt build-up in the back of the shift slide cavity (in the bell-housing). That's most likely due to a leaking upper shift shaft seal and bushing. You need to remove the drive and check those things out...
Thanks for the video Chris. Very helpful. You don't mention the spring loaded shift assist mechanism. Is it necessary to have it installed? It seems to place a lot of pressure on the assembly.
Thanks again for the info!! Well, I spent a few hours today trying to adjust the shift cable. The adjustment now is the best I've had so far. After the four turns you make with the brass barrel, and then hook everything back up. The manual says to move the remote to the opposite (if your in forward, move into reverse) then move the prop clockwise and check the cut-out switch, which should still be centered. Mine is just off center. Will that cause me problems? Thanks
The switch should not activate when going from neutral to FORWARD or REVERSE, only when coming OUT of gear, and only when there is load on the propeller, so not on the flushers either.
Great video! My only question is in the beginning when you push the cable in to put the drive in forward, should the shifter by the driver be in forward?
No. That indicates either a sticky cable (replace it), crud in the shift slide cavity in the drive (remove the drive and clean it out) or the stud is in too high a position (move it down).
I have an 87 alpha one 8v and I'm having trouble getting it into forward. I have to be trailer trim and trim all the way down. If it doesn't work and I have to put it in neutral and try to put it back in drive and then trailer trim and trim all the way down again. It acts like I'm moving it from the top but I have never moved the lower unit from the first attempt to put into forward.
Thanks for the video. I had my cable replaced by someone and it hits the cutoff switch when going from neutral to reverse but not when going fro neutral to forward. No motor shutoff or hesitation from the seitch. My question is, "is the motor supposed to hesitate when going from neutral into forward? Mine doesn't . What do I need to do? Thanks, Brad
I'm having a problem finding nuetral with the shift lever. you have to jerk from forward to reverse and feather it in the nuetral position to get it to actually go in nuetral. will this help or do you think I may have another problem. note this throttle quadrant is the second one and the same problem arises.
Loved the video. Very well done and super easy to understand. I have one question. When you adjusted the barrel nut you pointed "away from the cable" but screwed toward the cable. Not sure which to do.
If I am adjusting an existing cable, I know I need to measure the proper lengths of the cable movement. However, wouldn't the barrel on the remote control cable already be set 4 turns back? Or should I adjust it to fit perfectly first, then turn it back 4 turns for tension I assume?
Great vid .... my 2003 alpha one with 5.7 L has problems where it will shift into reverse but after the initial shift to reverse when I advance the throttle in reverse the engine dies (it works fine in forward and this condition only happens in reverse).... Could this be a cable (either one) is out of adjustment or does this point to other problems? Thanks Wayne Vancouver bc
I just got a 1994 bayliner ciera 2655. Goes into forward beautifully. However when going into reverse i get a grinding noise then it will go into reverse. Just a reverse cable adjustment? And does this video reference that adjustment on the end?
Thanks, great video !!! When I set the cable to 6" and set it back on shift plate and finish maikng my adjustments, I decided to measure it again while it is on the shift plate and i got in between 6 1/4 - 6 1/2 !! Is that normal ?
Chris. Thank you. This is outstanding. What do you mean with your comment "No, you should not have the interrupt switch activate when running on the hose?" I am trying to adjust my cable, as shifting is killing the engine completely, when shifting into forward and into reverse. Thanks again for this effort.
Thanks so much for the great video. Having gone through it step by step, I'm still having a problem getting into reverse. After some diagnosis, Im finding that the shifting cable behavior is different in Fwd & Rev. Pushing the shift cable all the way back, the gears engage and the prop stops turning. However, pulling it fwd towards reverse gear, at no point does the gears seem to engage, making the rest of the adjustment mute. Any suggestions?
Question, maneuvering the boat out off the dock at very slow speed going forward/backward then shifting neutral I hear a troubling grinding metal sound and stops after I shift back to gear--forward/backward?
Great video, it took me ten minutes to complete the adjustment thanks to you!... I now get great gear change in forward and reverse. However, in order to get the prop to go into reverse I had to move the drive shaft anchor to about a 1/4" from the top of the slot. This did not engage the cut-off switch so I figure this is fine but, shouldn't there be a point when it do engage the cut-off switch? If it never engages, what does that mean?
having the same issue in reverse. i didn't try to adjust the drive shaft remote anchor that far up to engage in reverse. i guess i will try that, but did you come up with any best adjustments to solve issues for smooth operation? thanks
Clunk is normal. Stand behind the boat, looking at the prop. If turning the prop clockwise is forward, that's a RH prop. If turning the prop CCW is forward, that's a left hand prop.
Just installed new heads, and I did not put the boat in forward when I took shift cables off the riser plate. I'm sure the cables were moved and jostled as I did the replacement in the bilge. After the rest of the engine was buttoned back up, I reinstalled and re-set cables to your specs. When testing, prop didn't go into gear. Got under the drive and noticed the dog/shift shoe was pointed at about 11:55 to port side when I did put the control to forward. I was able to push the dog/shift shoe to 12 O'clock with a small rod. The prop locked counter clockwise. I then made the adjustments to your spec. Started engine, put it in forward then N then Reverse a few times, and then tried it again a few times. On the 3rd of 4th try it stopped engaging in forward. Do I need to reset the upper cable more? Or do I drop the lower unit on the outdrive just enough to reset the dog/shift shoe connection to 12:00 O'clock while the control is in forward and then do the cable adjustments. These cable were replaced 2 seasons ago. The engine is 2010 Merc. Vortec 5.7 350 - Thanks for the video. I did use this video last season on my port side engine. It took 2 days of me swearing up a storm before I realized that, that particular outdrive was opposite rotation, and I had to do everything in reverse :) To be clear the engine I am asking about is normal rotation. Thank you.
Hi Chris. What can I check or adjust if my engine stalls when shifting back into neutral from forward or reverse. It happens more when the engine is hot. The motor has 950 hours on and boat is 96 Regal 5.7 Merc Cruiser
Hi Warrick, The problem you have described has been the same problem that I have experienced on and off over the past two years with my Alpha 1 Stern drive second generation on a 3 L mercruiser inboard. The engine cuts out because the ignition interrupt switch activates, as it should, on the initial gear shift into forward or reverse, but it does not come back to the neutral position before the engine stops. What should happen is the interrupt switch activates momentarily to kill the motor to allow the gear shift without any torque, so it does not grind going into gear, and coming out of gear, it needs the engine killed momentarily to allow it to fall into neutral, otherwise it says in gear. The most common cause for this problem is too much friction in the stern drive cable, so the return to centre spring on the interrupt cam plate does not have the force to move the cable back to the neutral position. The friction can be caused by a worn or damaged or poorly lubricated stern drive cable or binding of the cable through the penetrations into the gearbox. I have had limited success fixing the problem by replacing the stern drive cable and seals, which cured the problem for about 6 months before it returned, intermittently when the motor was hot. On my latest service which included taking the leg off for an oil change and impeller change, I asked the mechanic if he could diagnose and fux the problem. He double checkef if the stern drive cable linkage was at all sticky or there were any problems that could be causing the shift interrupt sticking problem. He reported that there were not, and he fitted a new linkage plate as he reported that this had cured the problem with some of his other clients. He adjusted everything up to specification and I had about 1 hours worth of trouble free gear shifting before the problem returned. The problem now is that every time it shifts into forward the engine will die. Reverse shifting is not a problem. To keep us out on the water, I have had my wife or one of the children hold the interrupt switch cam plate in the neutral position whilst I put the boat into forward. This is far from ideal, but otherwise the boat won't go. I have now added an additional plate onto the gear shift plate to allow me to mount a tension spring that assists the interrupt switch return to neutral on forward selection. I will water test this tomorrow and hopefully it works. If it works, I will post a video on CZcams about what I did, so others can copy it. The mercruiser Alpha 1 leg gear shift design with the manual shift interrupt switch arrangement that relies on the spring force of the interrupt cam plate to counteract the gearbox and shift cable is not a robust design at all. As soon as any friction builds up in the stern leg to control plate linkage is causes problems. This design problem is the main reason that I am actually going to sell my boat, and probably never buy another boat with a stern drive again. I find it hard to believe that a reputable company like MerCruiser manufacturered such a temperamental design, that could leave a non-technical person stranded at sea. I hope you manage to solve you boat's gear shifting problem.
Also, I do get a clunk when shifting to forward and reverse. Which is probably not normal right? One more thing...how does somebody determine whether you have a right hand rotation drive or left hand? Thanks agian!!
Hey Chris I think my upper cable needs replaced how bad is that? its an 89 celebrity by the way I just dont see the lower needing replaced its deffinately within specs i think the control box and upper cable pry wouldnt hurt along with the neutral switch and the actuator for the neutral switch both have been tampered with and as soon as I go to push it to full throttle adjusted the way you have shown here the switch activates like big time
Going to try this tomorrow. Mine it’s very difficult to get into neutral. Have to rock forward reverse to get neutral will shift cable adjustment do this?
Good afternoon. I was hoping you could help as well. 1986 mercruiser alpha one. Boat shifts into reverse and prop spins fine. Shift into forward. Prop locks like normal but doesn’t spin with throttle pushed forward. We do here something clinking around but we are thrown off since reverse works fine
Here’s a thought. If you’re messing around with the breather off STUFF A RAG IN THE CARB. That way anything tint you drop doesn’t cause you 🤦🏼♂️grief later on.........shit does happen .
Hi Chris Great explanation of adjusting the cables. I’ve got a problem that I can’t seem to correct. Boat goes into forward and neutral fine but when I go towards reverse the interrupt switch activities shuttling off the engine. Using your information My remote cable is an inch shorter than the 3.5” you reference. Any suggestions as to what I should be doing to fix this This is a 30 year old boat with 350 total hours on it
Is this for an Alpha One gen 1 or an Alpha 1 gen 2? Is this for a single shift lever or a Dual Shift/throttle lever? This is without the Shift Assist Assembly correct? I am new to the boating scene and I believe I may have a shift cable issue. I have an Alpha 1 Gen 1 with 1 4cyl 3.0 engine. Thanks
Thanks for the video, very informative. I have a 1997 Alpha 1 Gen 2 drive and a 4.3 Mercruiser (thunderbolt 4 ignition). When I shift from neutral to forward or neutral to reverse I get a bit of grinding coming from the drive, moving out of gear into neutral is fine. Can this be rectified by the adjustment of either of the cables? I am a competent mechanic, just have no experience of adjusting the drives. Any advice/help would be appreciated.
Jeff did you ever figured it out. i have similar boat. locks find in fwd but prop doesn't lock in reversed have that same noise in reverse, haven't tried to with a load, being in water, i have a new cable, but not a new remote shift cable. Jenny said she had to move the shift anchor pin almost all the way up for prop to engage in reverse. What did you come up with?
I've followed the video, my measurements were the same as yours. So I followed your instructions exactly. On the water if I shift fast and accel (to pull a wakeboarder out) I will get a clunk into gear and then a second later another clunk. If I shift quickly but keep near idle I do not get the second clunk. Can the black throttle adjustment thing be adjusted further then 4 turns? My reverse shift slams into gear hard and shakes the whole boat. Suggestion? THANK YOU!!
Watched this 100x... GREAT VIDEO. Would there be a slim chance that I'm one tooth off my outdrive shift shaft alignment?.. I can't get this fkr to grab reverse to save my life. EVEN AJUSTING SLOT ALL THE WAY!!! PLEASE HELP!
Hey mine is Brandon, I have my shift cable at 6" and my control cable like you said, then I seen where you told somebody that the cut out switch won't work on a hose, iam heading up to the lake this weekend, if my cutout doesn't ingage what else can I do? Just wondering and thnks for the videos they were lots of help
when you spin the barrel four turns "away from the cable" you said. Is this increasing the distance between the two pins or decreasing the short distance? I want to make sure I'm doing this right, thanks.
When I shift to forward, I can't get back into neutral and the kill switch is engaging killing the engine, this only happens in forward not reverse. Is this resulting from a bad cable or kill switch? TIA. Great video.
Replacing the upper cable won't change anything. You need to find out why the lower cable is getting tight when shifting to reverse. I would pull the drive and check the slide cavity in the bell-housing for dirty and crud.... Also make sure the slide is free to rotate on the end of the cable. (common mistake people make when replacing the lower shift cable is to tighten the grub-screw and stop the slide rotating. It should be loose, but without any longitudinal movement (hope that makes sense))
Hey chris what can I do if I follow your steps but cant adjust the cable past 5 inches....I have 2004 Monterey 3.0l with gen 2 alpha and it dosnt look like ike I can physically adjust mine past 5inches please help
chris - working on a 67 and 74 simultaneously, got a new bellows kit for the one and the lower 9/16 brass nut is facing forward (threads in from the front - on both outdrives actually) - however the replacement cable that arrived threads from the rear, I see alot of ref to the 1/4-18 tap, but that only seems to possibly match the small threaded end up at the top, the lower brass nut looks more like a pipe thread NPT 1/2" - the threads also dont run all the way thru from the front, im thinking of continuing the threads thru from the front - is this correct? if so any specs on the thread?
Yes, the earlier drives had the cable installed from the front (as you are correctly orientating :-)). Later cables are made to be installed from the back, but the threads are tapped all the way back. Mostly over time, the unoccupied section just gums up (technical term). Use a 1/4-18 NPSF (Parallel thread!) tap and run it all the way though from the front (bellows side). No guessin' ;-) Hit me up at iboats forums. Find me as 'achris'...
ok great thanks, will do - im active there as CamaroMan. Im bidding on a Tap 1/4 - 18 NPSF RH, the tap i unscrewed is MUCH bigger than 1/4 " - i dont understand what the 1/4 is for? i did make a new thread - thanks again. Also the grounding clips on the bellows, do they goes with the dots on the case or between rubber and clamp? how important are they - this boat sees saltwater maybe 10 times a year - mostly fresh -
Hi - not sure if prev reply went thru, so ur saying clean it up and itll go in from the rear? Whats the deal with the 1/4 npsf tap then? The brass bolt measures roughly 1/2" - how will a 1/4" do anything? Sorry but just plain confused :)
I’ve come to this video multiple times over the years as needed and when my memory fails me. So thank you for making it and leaving it up
11 year old video and still the best one out there. Nice job and thanks much!
Why didnt i see this video 12 years ago!
Thank you from all of us in 2024!
Thanks! Read the shop manual for the shift cable adjustment a couple of times and it read as extremely complicated. Your video and explanation on the other hand was clear and easy to follow. I brought the laptop onto the boat and did the whole job in about 10 minutes with your help and the drive shifts like a charm.
Followed your process and got my boat shifting smoothly again. Thank you!
I have read the factory service bulletin on this,and I can tell everyone you are very knowledgeable and very helpful; thank you
Chris.. wonderful job as always!, explaining what you are doing and why...so well done compared to others who say, "move this, to there"...never explaining what they are talking about,, you always explain what you are doing and why,, well done!
Thank you ! This was perfect ! Mine was making a noise as when in neutral and would die when put into forward. I got up on the boat and followed along with you and 10 minutes later problem solved !! Great video and explanation!
Outstanding explanation been pondering this adjustment for longer than I Care to admit. Followed the video and restored function first try. Thanks for the video.
All these videos are very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do these.
Great video, very helpful and more detailed then my Merc shop manuals. Thanks
Hi thanks for the easy to follow instruction. My shift plate is a 1973 model however the outdrive was replaced in the mid 80's with a later model outdrive. I really didn't know which measurement to go with so I went with the 5 7/8" center to center shift cable mounting position and got it right. I assume the shift plate age would therefore be the determining factor. Anyways, was able to make the proper gear engagement adjustment on land. However once I went for a test cruise, I had to adjust the rear anchor pen negatively because I was slipping out of forward drive under a load. Once I moved the rear anchor pin back about and 1/8", it worked perfectly. Great video.
Your instructions were spot on. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Great video clear concise and straight to the point.
Very informative! Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
Great video, I just bought a 1989 Baja 190 sport and only had 300 hours on it. The boat is mint but the only issue was it not shifting all the way into gear. This will help so much and makes me at ease just to know its an adjustment issue.
Thank you so much for this! and the alignment video too. I've been restoring a 2850 bayliner bounty with twin 470's for the last two years and getting to the point of re-installing engines. Finding your video was like finding lost money in the washing machine.
This Bloke Was just Who I needed to get the job done ! Not only that, He's an Aussie - I lived in Many locations, Down-Under, and enjoyed My Stay, VERY much ! :-)
I adjust my boat by trial and error with boat on the water. This video is outstanding and textbook way to adjust with the boat in the shop. I highly recommend final adjustment be done with boat in the water for optimum results, The service manual for the alpha one drive says the same under the caption "in water tests". Most professional marine shops do not bother with the in water tests.
Thanks for the vid. Fixed all my problems.
This video helped me solve my shifting problems! Thanks a million- Im going to be on the lake this weekend!!’n
Thank you for your quick response! The control box looked original from a 2004 Maxum 1800mx. Thank you in advance.
You know I took a new boat out I bought from some people that didn't tell me it was a piece of junk and you've helped me a lot with this so thank you
Thanks! Your video was very helpful.
Excellent crystal clear explanation!
Mate watched the others and this is the one that worked for us
Thankyou🎉
This is the best video I have found for adjusting these cables, only thing I have to add, is if they have factory crimped the brass adjusting screw on the shift cable barely drill right down on the Crip temples. Can you contact the actual cable, spray, a little WD-40, and with a little effort you will be able to adjust the shift cable
You're a lifesaver. Thanks.
Best video! This is exactly what we needed.
On remote cable if I have more that 3 1/8 inch is the cable bad? And need replacing or can I adjust it out? I have 3 1/4 inch
@@patricktucker9950 How does it shift with the extra 1/8 inch of play? If it seems to work okay, I'd leave it.
I figured as much. I'm not quit sure what it would be though. I suppose I can try and check the play clearances as you mentioned in your video or just do another adjustment? Thatnks again for all the info and the quick responses, it's very much appreciated!!
Thank you worked like a charm
Perfect!!! Thank you
Thanks for your video!
adjusted 1974 shift cable to your 5 7/8, works perfect now. Thank you
Did you have to put it in neutral in the beginning or full reverse?
Thank you sir for sharing this.
My pleasure...
Great instructional video. Problem solved. Thx!
Great Video, Thank You! ❤🎉
Thanks for a great video, really informative and it help me gather the courage to go at adjusting the shift cable on my Merc 5.0 220hp -05 with Alpha 1 gen 2 stern drive. I was having issues getting the boat into gear, bort forward and reverse which is why I wanted to try adjusting the cable. Whenever I put the remote forward or back to put it into gear (which is an original Morse remote in my CC Lancer 19' by the way), I was hearing a loud clicking/knocking noise and then the boat would slam into gear. Not very smooth and it made it hard to operate in tight spaces etc.
Said and done, I adjusted the lower shift cable like you describe in the video (6" etc.) But I forgot to adjust the upper remote cable. I'm now having the following issues and I don't know if they might be solved by adjusting the upper remote cable or if I'm having some other issues:
Reverse goes smoother into gear but I'm still hearing the knocking/clicking sound before the gear kicks in. Reverse also requires less movement in the remote shifter than before the adjustment
Forward now requires far more movement in the remote shifter and I'm having the same kind of loud clicking/knocking sound before it slams into gear.
Do you think there could be any issues using my Morse controller or should I adjust the remote cable in the way you advise anyway?
I guess my main concern is the knocking/clicking, it feels like the cogs are engaging slightly/slipping before they actually engage and the gear slams into place.
Sorry for the long post but could really use your input here!
Thanks!
Anton
I know this is old but did you resolve it? How?
Best video man thank you
Glad you liked it!
Thank you so much, for sharing this very helpful information. Cheers.
Glad it was helpful!
@@chrisa660 Im knew to Inboard out boards , and a poor fellow, so when someone shares info to help others it's a blessing so again thanks so very much ...God bless.
I really appreciate these specs..
My sea ray has an MR1 outdrive and the neutral cutoff switch has been a real problem ..
are the cables worn? how old are they.
@@libertyfinder4889 pretty old
Very helpful BUT 2 things to clarify: 1)The throttle needs to be in wide open forward in the beginning and wide open reverse at the end. 2) when he adjusts the barrel, he says one direction and goes the other. Do as he does, not as he says
Awesome video
Thanks!!!
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH !!!
Sounds like you might have crud and/or salt build-up in the back of the shift slide cavity (in the bell-housing). That's most likely due to a leaking upper shift shaft seal and bushing. You need to remove the drive and check those things out...
Thanks for the video Chris. Very helpful. You don't mention the spring loaded shift assist mechanism. Is it necessary to have it installed? It seems to place a lot of pressure on the assembly.
Got me right. Thanks.
Clunk is normal...good news!! And of course it would be as simple as that to find out the rotation. Nice!
Thanks again for the info!! Well, I spent a few hours today trying to adjust the shift cable. The adjustment now is the best I've had so far. After the four turns you make with the brass barrel, and then hook everything back up. The manual says to move the remote to the opposite (if your in forward, move into reverse) then move the prop clockwise and check the cut-out switch, which should still be centered. Mine is just off center. Will that cause me problems? Thanks
The switch should not activate when going from neutral to FORWARD or REVERSE, only when coming OUT of gear, and only when there is load on the propeller, so not on the flushers either.
Great video! My only question is in the beginning when you push the cable in to put the drive in forward, should the shifter by the driver be in forward?
No. That indicates either a sticky cable (replace it), crud in the shift slide cavity in the drive (remove the drive and clean it out) or the stud is in too high a position (move it down).
Great video! Do you have a one for adjusting the shift cables for a Mercruiser Bravo engine or is it the same?
Thank you,
I have an 87 alpha one 8v and I'm having trouble getting it into forward. I have to be trailer trim and trim all the way down. If it doesn't work and I have to put it in neutral and try to put it back in drive and then trailer trim and trim all the way down again. It acts like I'm moving it from the top but I have never moved the lower unit from the first attempt to put into forward.
Thanks for the video. I had my cable replaced by someone and it hits the cutoff switch when going from neutral to reverse but not when going fro neutral to forward. No motor shutoff or hesitation from the seitch. My question is, "is the motor supposed to hesitate when going from neutral into forward? Mine doesn't . What do I need to do? Thanks, Brad
I'm having a problem finding nuetral with the shift lever. you have to jerk from forward to reverse and feather it in the nuetral position to get it to actually go in nuetral. will this help or do you think I may have another problem. note this throttle quadrant is the second one and the same problem arises.
Great video!! Thanks. Question. When in forward gear...is it all the forward, full throttle? And the same for reverse?
BTW, it has a mercury mercruiser 3.0l engine. thanks again.
Loved the video. Very well done and super easy to understand. I have one question. When you adjusted the barrel nut you pointed "away from the cable" but screwed toward the cable. Not sure which to do.
yep, boat is running like it probably never did before
Yes.
If I am adjusting an existing cable, I know I need to measure the proper lengths of the cable movement. However, wouldn't the barrel on the remote control cable already be set 4 turns back? Or should I adjust it to fit perfectly first, then turn it back 4 turns for tension I assume?
Great vid ....
my 2003 alpha one with 5.7 L has problems where it will shift into reverse but after the initial shift to reverse when I advance the throttle in reverse the engine dies (it works fine in forward and this condition only happens in reverse).... Could this be a cable (either one) is out of adjustment or does this point to other problems?
Thanks Wayne Vancouver bc
I just got a 1994 bayliner ciera 2655. Goes into forward beautifully. However when going into reverse i get a grinding noise then it will go into reverse. Just a reverse cable adjustment? And does this video reference that adjustment on the end?
Move the control handle until the shift cable stops moving. Same for both forward and reverse.
Thanks, great video !!! When I set the cable to 6" and set it back on shift plate and finish maikng my adjustments, I decided to measure it again while it is on the shift plate and i got in between 6 1/4 - 6 1/2 !! Is that normal ?
Chris. Thank you. This is outstanding. What do you mean with your comment "No, you should not have the interrupt switch activate when running on the hose?" I am trying to adjust my cable, as shifting is killing the engine completely, when shifting into forward and into reverse. Thanks again for this effort.
If the switch trips when there is no load on the propeller, then the lower shift cable is the reason...
In the water running, the ONLY adjustment should be to the brass barrel on the shift cable.
Thanks so much for the great video. Having gone through it step by step, I'm still having a problem getting into reverse. After some diagnosis, Im finding that the shifting cable behavior is different in Fwd & Rev. Pushing the shift cable all the way back, the gears engage and the prop stops turning. However, pulling it fwd towards reverse gear, at no point does the gears seem to engage, making the rest of the adjustment mute. Any suggestions?
How are there 75 dislikes, his explanation is spot on.
I was sort of wondering that too. :-) (maybe other youtubers who are losing views to my video???)
Question, maneuvering the boat out off the dock at very slow speed going forward/backward then shifting neutral I hear a troubling grinding metal sound and stops after I shift back to gear--forward/backward?
Great video, it took me ten minutes to complete the adjustment thanks to you!... I now get great gear change in forward and reverse. However, in order to get the prop to go into reverse I had to move the drive shaft anchor to about a 1/4" from the top of the slot. This did not engage the cut-off switch so I figure this is fine but, shouldn't there be a point when it do engage the cut-off switch? If it never engages, what does that mean?
having the same issue in reverse. i didn't try to adjust the drive shaft remote anchor that far up to engage in reverse. i guess i will try that, but did you come up with any best adjustments to solve issues for smooth operation? thanks
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Set to netural did 6in.then put in forward for top linkage to where it fit rite on.i had forward no rev.
Clunk is normal. Stand behind the boat, looking at the prop. If turning the prop clockwise is forward, that's a RH prop. If turning the prop CCW is forward, that's a left hand prop.
Just installed new heads, and I did not put the boat in forward when I took shift cables off the riser plate. I'm sure the cables were moved and jostled as I did the replacement in the bilge. After the rest of the engine was buttoned back up, I reinstalled and re-set cables to your specs. When testing, prop didn't go into gear. Got under the drive and noticed the dog/shift shoe was pointed at about 11:55 to port side when I did put the control to forward. I was able to push the dog/shift shoe to 12 O'clock with a small rod. The prop locked counter clockwise. I then made the adjustments to your spec. Started engine, put it in forward then N then Reverse a few times, and then tried it again a few times. On the 3rd of 4th try it stopped engaging in forward. Do I need to reset the upper cable more? Or do I drop the lower unit on the outdrive just enough to reset the dog/shift shoe connection to 12:00 O'clock while the control is in forward and then do the cable adjustments. These cable were replaced 2 seasons ago. The engine is 2010 Merc. Vortec 5.7 350 - Thanks for the video. I did use this video last season on my port side engine. It took 2 days of me swearing up a storm before I realized that, that particular outdrive was opposite rotation, and I had to do everything in reverse :) To be clear the engine I am asking about is normal rotation. Thank you.
Hi Chris do you have a video of the throttle cable adjustment.
BR
Bob
Hi Chris. What can I check or adjust if my engine stalls when shifting back into neutral from forward or reverse. It happens more when the engine is hot. The motor has 950 hours on and boat is 96 Regal 5.7 Merc Cruiser
Hi Warrick,
The problem you have described has been the same problem that I have experienced on and off over the past two years with my Alpha 1 Stern drive second generation on a 3 L mercruiser inboard. The engine cuts out because the ignition interrupt switch activates, as it should, on the initial gear shift into forward or reverse, but it does not come back to the neutral position before the engine stops. What should happen is the interrupt switch activates momentarily to kill the motor to allow the gear shift without any torque, so it does not grind going into gear, and coming out of gear, it needs the engine killed momentarily to allow it to fall into neutral, otherwise it says in gear.
The most common cause for this problem is too much friction in the stern drive cable, so the return to centre spring on the interrupt cam plate does not have the force to move the cable back to the neutral position. The friction can be caused by a worn or damaged or poorly lubricated stern drive cable or binding of the cable through the penetrations into the gearbox. I have had limited success fixing the problem by replacing the stern drive cable and seals, which cured the problem for about 6 months before it returned, intermittently when the motor was hot.
On my latest service which included taking the leg off for an oil change and impeller change, I asked the mechanic if he could diagnose and fux the problem. He double checkef if the stern drive cable linkage was at all sticky or there were any problems that could be causing the shift interrupt sticking problem. He reported that there were not, and he fitted a new linkage plate as he reported that this had cured the problem with some of his other clients. He adjusted everything up to specification and I had about 1 hours worth of trouble free gear shifting before the problem returned.
The problem now is that every time it shifts into forward the engine will die. Reverse shifting is not a problem. To keep us out on the water, I have had my wife or one of the children hold the interrupt switch cam plate in the neutral position whilst I put the boat into forward. This is far from ideal, but otherwise the boat won't go.
I have now added an additional plate onto the gear shift plate to allow me to mount a tension spring that assists the interrupt switch return to neutral on forward selection. I will water test this tomorrow and hopefully it works. If it works, I will post a video on CZcams about what I did, so others can copy it.
The mercruiser Alpha 1 leg gear shift design with the manual shift interrupt switch arrangement that relies on the spring force of the interrupt cam plate to counteract the gearbox and shift cable is not a robust design at all. As soon as any friction builds up in the stern leg to control plate linkage is causes problems. This design problem is the main reason that I am actually going to sell my boat, and probably never buy another boat with a stern drive again.
I find it hard to believe that a reputable company like MerCruiser manufacturered such a temperamental design, that could leave a non-technical person stranded at sea.
I hope you manage to solve you boat's gear shifting problem.
Yes...
Also, I do get a clunk when shifting to forward and reverse. Which is probably not normal right? One more thing...how does somebody determine whether you have a right hand rotation drive or left hand? Thanks agian!!
Hey Chris I think my upper cable needs replaced how bad is that? its an 89 celebrity by the way I just dont see the lower needing replaced its deffinately within specs i think the control box and upper cable pry wouldnt hurt along with the neutral switch and the actuator for the neutral switch both have been tampered with and as soon as I go to push it to full throttle adjusted the way you have shown here the switch activates like big time
Going to try this tomorrow. Mine it’s very difficult to get into neutral. Have to rock forward reverse to get neutral will shift cable adjustment do this?
Good afternoon. I was hoping you could help as well. 1986 mercruiser alpha one. Boat shifts into reverse and prop spins fine. Shift into forward. Prop locks like normal but doesn’t spin with throttle pushed forward. We do here something clinking around but we are thrown off since reverse works fine
hi did you sort out the problem , mine does exactly the same ?
Here’s a thought. If you’re messing around with the breather off STUFF A RAG IN THE CARB. That way anything tint you drop doesn’t cause you 🤦🏼♂️grief later on.........shit does happen .
Hi Chris
Great explanation of adjusting the cables. I’ve got a problem that I can’t seem to correct. Boat goes into forward and neutral fine but when I go towards reverse the interrupt switch activities shuttling off the engine. Using your information My remote cable is an inch shorter than the 3.5” you reference. Any suggestions as to what I should be doing to fix this
This is a 30 year old boat with 350 total hours on it
Hi, where you able to fix it? I'm having the same issue...
followed these instructions to a T and I've never had a boat that shifted as well.
Is this for an Alpha One gen 1 or an Alpha 1 gen 2?
Is this for a single shift lever or a Dual Shift/throttle lever?
This is without the Shift Assist Assembly correct?
I am new to the boating scene and I believe I may have a shift cable issue. I have an Alpha 1 Gen 1 with 1 4cyl 3.0 engine.
Thanks
Thanks for the video, very informative. I have a 1997 Alpha 1 Gen 2 drive and a 4.3 Mercruiser (thunderbolt 4 ignition). When I shift from neutral to forward or neutral to reverse I get a bit of grinding coming from the drive, moving out of gear into neutral is fine. Can this be rectified by the adjustment of either of the cables? I am a competent mechanic, just have no experience of adjusting the drives. Any advice/help would be appreciated.
Jeff did you ever figured it out. i have similar boat. locks find in fwd but prop doesn't lock in reversed have that same noise in reverse, haven't tried to with a load, being in water, i have a new cable, but not a new remote shift cable. Jenny said she had to move the shift anchor pin almost all the way up for prop to engage in reverse. What did you come up with?
Can you adjust this while the outdrive is up/on trailer? Or do you need to lower it?
Will this method work on force 120 motor (bayliner 1700 ls 96 outdrive)? thanks
I've followed the video, my measurements were the same as yours. So I followed your instructions exactly. On the water if I shift fast and accel (to pull a wakeboarder out) I will get a clunk into gear and then a second later another clunk. If I shift quickly but keep near idle I do not get the second clunk. Can the black throttle adjustment thing be adjusted further then 4 turns? My reverse shift slams into gear hard and shakes the whole boat. Suggestion? THANK YOU!!
Check your idle speed too. If too high you can get that hard ckunk
Watched this 100x... GREAT VIDEO.
Would there be a slim chance that I'm one tooth off my outdrive shift shaft alignment?.. I can't get this fkr to grab reverse to save my life. EVEN AJUSTING SLOT ALL THE WAY!!! PLEASE HELP!
Hey mine is Brandon, I have my shift cable at 6" and my control cable like you said, then I seen where you told somebody that the cut out switch won't work on a hose, iam heading up to the lake this weekend, if my cutout doesn't ingage what else can I do? Just wondering and thnks for the videos they were lots of help
Turn the motor off for a second to get it out of gear then start it back up
when you spin the barrel four turns "away from the cable" you said. Is this increasing the distance between the two pins or decreasing the short distance? I want to make sure I'm doing this right, thanks.
When I shift to forward, I can't get back into neutral and the kill switch is engaging killing the engine, this only happens in forward not reverse. Is this resulting from a bad cable or kill switch? TIA. Great video.
yes
Replacing the upper cable won't change anything. You need to find out why the lower cable is getting tight when shifting to reverse. I would pull the drive and check the slide cavity in the bell-housing for dirty and crud.... Also make sure the slide is free to rotate on the end of the cable. (common mistake people make when replacing the lower shift cable is to tighten the grub-screw and stop the slide rotating. It should be loose, but without any longitudinal movement (hope that makes sense))
Hey chris what can I do if I follow your steps but cant adjust the cable past 5 inches....I have 2004 Monterey 3.0l with gen 2 alpha and it dosnt look like ike I can physically adjust mine past 5inches please help
If the switch is not activated (closed) then it shouldn't be a problem, but I would find out why... It means something else is not quite right.
The roller wheel on my shift interrupt is out of crevice towards the top when in reverse. Is that normal?
chris - working on a 67 and 74 simultaneously, got a new bellows kit for the one and the lower 9/16 brass nut is facing forward (threads in from the front - on both outdrives actually) - however the replacement cable that arrived threads from the rear, I see alot of ref to the 1/4-18 tap, but that only seems to possibly match the small threaded end up at the top, the lower brass nut looks more like a pipe thread NPT 1/2" - the threads also dont run all the way thru from the front, im thinking of continuing the threads thru from the front - is this correct? if so any specs on the thread?
Yes, the earlier drives had the cable installed from the front (as you are correctly orientating :-)). Later cables are made to be installed from the back, but the threads are tapped all the way back. Mostly over time, the unoccupied section just gums up (technical term). Use a 1/4-18 NPSF (Parallel thread!) tap and run it all the way though from the front (bellows side). No guessin' ;-) Hit me up at iboats forums. Find me as 'achris'...
ok great thanks, will do - im active there as CamaroMan. Im bidding on a Tap 1/4 - 18 NPSF RH, the tap i unscrewed is MUCH bigger than 1/4 " - i dont understand what the 1/4 is for? i did make a new thread - thanks again. Also the grounding clips on the bellows, do they goes with the dots on the case or between rubber and clamp? how important are they - this boat sees saltwater maybe 10 times a year - mostly fresh -
Hi - not sure if prev reply went thru, so ur saying clean it up and itll go in from the rear? Whats the deal with the 1/4 npsf tap then? The brass bolt measures roughly 1/2" - how will a 1/4" do anything? Sorry but just plain confused :)