Volvo S60 V70 XC90 Steering wheel Stiff Hard to turn * Lower coupler 2001-2009
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Warning - please see the comments section so you don't damage the rack box seal • Volvo S60 V70 Upper r... Also, REMOVE the ignition key, to get the steering locked, so it doesn't spin freely when the shaft is disconnected, otherwise you will damage the SAS angle sensor inside the steering (expensive) and will also loose the correct steering wheel position.
Common issue with seized lower steering coupler (shaft) - how to test, lubricate and eventually replace it
PLEASE read these extra tips on lubricating and removing the coupler
Warning: Any fluid used to lube this coupler will leak over the rubber 'cap' that protects the upper rack box seal, and will ultimately leak over the rack box upper seal (right where the steering shaft is entering the steering rack). See this video czcams.com/video/ZbbJXuiSQ2M/video.html If the fluid attacks the seal, that will cause the rack to fail. So with this in mind, may try to lube the coupler bearings with the Pentosin fluid (the one for the steering rack). Although I don't think it's really a lubricant, it's fully synthetic and should be safe. Other than that I would hesitate to recommend anything else. Even a 'synthetic' engine oil is not really fully synthetic and may attack the upper rack seal. I also have a synthetic bicycle chain oil, not sure if it's safe or not.
Coupler removal. Usually the coupler it's very stuck on the rack box and may need to be cut with a small dremel. Forcing on it at the rack will ruin the upper rack box seal. www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=97570&p=577576&hilit=coupler#p577576
Coupler Models. There are two different and incompatible models. One for the SMI rack up to middle 2004, and another for the ZF rack from mid 2004 on. In fact, all components of the two rack systems are incompatible, however an owner reported he swapped a complete ZF rack system on a car originally with SMI - rack, in/out tie rods, pipes, coupler, reservoir and pump
Steering shaft wing screw part #987281: torque 30 Nm (22 ft.lb). Always insert this screw with the head up as shown in the video with the steering wheel centered. This screw is a shear bolt that will snap in case of a crash so the steering column doesn't push the steering wheel towards the driver. So it's important to tighten it at the exact specified torque. Be aware that each brand of steering rack has different coupler models (not interchangeable)
ATTENTION: REMOVE the ignition key, to get the steering locked, so it doesn't spin freely when the shaft is disconnected, otherwise you will damage the SAS angle sensor inside the steering (expensive) and will also loose the correct steering wheel position.
Thanks for the help.
Mechanic told my wife and daughter we needed a new rack for her 2006 s60 for 3k. Wife figured it wasn’t worth fixing so went and put a deposit (refundable thank goodness) on a $30K 2018. Did this and it’s as good as new! Thanks for saving the day.
This is the exact problem I have on my S60, will try fixing in the next few days. Thank you for the Tutorial and all the warnings for stuff that can go wrong.
Saved my day, was thinking about scraping my 2001 volvo after it failed inspection because of being hard to steer. This video fixed the problem and the steering is smooth as new!
Excellent! Thank you, for taking the time and making detailed video! Exactly the symptoms my s60 has!
Yeah, the universal joint is binding. Thank you for this video.
@Peppermint1 - Remind me to consult with you before I ever work on my car again. After a new pump did nothing, 5c worth of lube on the lower knuckle fixed 95% of my problem!
A couple of drawbacks:
- I didn't shroud the knuckle well enough, and the top seal to the rack got hit with Blaster. Is there any way to hose that off? The rubber from a distance looks fairly porous.
- I could NOT get the boot off until I realized that the outer and inner boots are one assembly. Removing the wire ring enabled the whole thing to come off.
- I could NOT get the boot's retaining wire back on, so the boot assembly is held there by the architecture of the flange and the rubber.
- you video shows plenty of end-play on the upper steering shaft. I had NONE. I wonder if that's a problem. The steering seems to be good, however.
Man, this job was purgatory. I'm outside on a gravel driveway, and every step seemed difficult to impossible. But it seems like I finally cracked my steering problem, and I personally held up pretty well through it.
Thanks once again for your great help!
Paul
Thank you very much! Your Videos are helping me so much with my 2000 S60 Turbo 👍
Excellent guide. Thank you very much !
Nice job.
Watched the video
Made the repair
It worked!!
Thank you
Great to hear!
This looks promising. I have the same feeling rotating steering wheel.
Will try to do what you are showing.
Thanks.
You are awesome. I couldn't have done this without you. I'll update when finished.
This helped me a lot!
I have to swap my lower coupler as my steering wheel rotated 180° without us noticing it, while we were converting from automatic to manual transmission. Got 3cm slack in my steering wheel not caused by the rack, so this part is probably the one. Seems like an okay job to do, a bit tight to get to the lower screw, but it was off less than 3 years ago, only driven 10k kms since then
It didn't affect the angle steering sensor ? No Anti-Skid error ? I don't believe a lower coupler will cause a slack
@@Peppermint1 i had to adjust the sensor as it ended up 360° off. You can't mount the rack 180° on these cars, due to the screw notch in the column. So I just had to adjust it so it was at 0°.
@@JakkeJakobsen So the sensor over-rotated and it still works properly ? That's good to know for when people don't set it correctly. I wonder if most of the times when people get a Anti-Skid code for the SAS it's actually not the SAS sensor that goes bad, but rather the YAW sensor gets fooled when the wheel geometry is off and the car drives straight with the steering slightly turned - it throws a SAS Anti-Skid code and people (Volvo included) go replacing the SAS instead of just fixing the geometry to get the steering straight, then just recalibrating the SAS in Vida
@@Peppermint1 might be, easy to just go by the error code first
Very detailed explanation.
Thanks.
Just have the issue with my car and as I´m installing the steering rack will do it also.
Great tutorial. Question! The white plastic piece that guides the coupler into the steering column, I cracked off the tabs, but was able to get it to go into the housing. Is that just a spacer and guide that I won't need to worry about now that things are reassembled, or should I look into finding a replacement pronto?
Mine has that effect when I turn right but not left. I would describe it as my tire slips and grip, slip and grip.....on and on. Wonder if my problem is the same as what you've described and that the coupler is the one I should focus on?
Good question. I would expect a seizing coupler to act both 'ways'. Wild shot but I would think more at a problem with the rack or maybe a leaking seal ? Really just a guess, perhaps I'll try to undo the gaiters and have a look inside, see if the rack is rusted and leaking on either side. The gaiters (dust boots) need to be clamped back correctly and tight, only with Oeticker type clamps
Thank you for your very educational videos! I have a 2003 S60 with the problems you describe, steering is hard, then easy etc. However, this problem started very suddenly: one day it was fine, the next day it was not. Before I start screwing around risking damage, what do you think is most likely to cause this problem so suddenly?
It's hard to say, if you have the speed sensitive sensor - can be seen by turning the wheel near driver to full look - maybe the sensor is failing. I would also look closely at the pump and reservoir hoses, try tightening these so no air gets sucked in. Also verify fluid level and if you have the old reservoir with outgoing hose at the top, look inside as a small copper pipe may detach and drop.
Did you found what was causing problem ?
@@michalz2114 I did not. But the power steering came back suddenly one day for a while before going away again so it's probably an electronic problem.
Thanks à lot for sharing
Lubricating the coupler is like putting a band aid on a gun shot wound...The only way to fix this problem is to replace the steering shaft...Trust me...I have a friend that works at a Volvo dealership here in Sweden and he says that this is a common problem...
Thanks for the help.
Thank you very much for the video! Sounds exactly like the problem I'm experiencing on my S60 2002. After removing the circular locking spring I tried to remove the bottom rubber dome but it seems to be glued to the metal floor strongly all around. Before I torn it apart let me please double check with you. Was your bottom rubber dome glued at the bottom? If yes, what kind of glue to use to seal it back? Or, better, is this lower steering shaft accessible from the bottom of the car without too much disassembly? Maybe I'd rather find a lift to lubricate it from the bottom. Thank you very much!
Lubricated from under the hood. Not perfectly though, let's see if it helps. The rubber cap over the steering rack seal has indeed fully deteriorated, just like you said. It feels like goo or plasticine, not rubber. Would have been perfect to lubricate the shaft from the top from under the pedals, but as I said, the rubber dome is not just secured with the round clip but very well glued in place. Thanks again for the very clear instructions, you are very knowledgeable, thanks for sharing.
Lubricated this link well with Pentosin but it didn't help with the problem. The "locking" problem is still there. Getting more pronounced after driving for 10 minutes. The 10 degrees at the center position of the steering wheel are easy, then some resistance, then easier etc. Driving me insane, no idea what it could be.
@@stepanrumyantsev6098 I did not know it was glued to the flooring. I thought it was sufficient to remove the locking nut. How does one remove it since it’s glued? :) thanks for any help!
I lubricated the links more from under the Hood with Pentosin and the problem is finally 100% gone! Thank you so much for this video! I didn't have to remove the glued rubber dome after all.
Do you repair this yourself? And where are you based?
Hi Oragex. Do you have a part number for that seal cap? When I replace my steering u-joint I want to replace that seal/cap ... can't find it online.
I don't think it's sold separately. I got one from another car at the junkyard, almost the same size and made of more solid material. May just cut it off to remove it and put it back with some RTV
Can you pull the coupler up the the drivers floor or is it tricky to get out?
Usually it's very stuck on the rack box and may need to be cut with a small dremel. Forcing on it at the rack will ruin the upper rack box seal. Look up on forums about this issue
How much estimated to repair?
So which synthetic fluid do you use to lube the 4 bearings? I'm in Canada so access to same products
I'm not an expert so these are only guesses. My main fear is any fluid will leak over the rubber 'cap' that protects the upper rack box seal, and will ultimately leak over this important seal. If the fluid attacks the seal, that will cause the rack to fail. So with this in mind, may try the Pentosin (the one for the steering rack). Although I don't think it's really a lubricant, it's fully synthetic and should be safe. Other than that I would hesitate to recommend anything else. Even a 'synthetic' engine oil is not really fully synthetic and may attack the upper rack seal. I also have a synthetic bicycle chain oil, not sure if it's safe or not.
@@Peppermint1 Yes I understand your concern. I see other videos with people just hitting it with PB Blaster. Maybe there is a middle ground I can find.. lol.. Also do you know a seal part # for that to replace since I'm in there? thx man stay safe in MTL
mine is heavy when i turn the wheel at stationary
I have some issues, maybe you can help?! I changed the engine on my volvo. And i also changed the subframe buchings and steeringrack. My steeringrack has the Electronic solenoid on it, zf rack. When i changed the rack i drained all the fluid in it. But when i started the car to check if the new engine was running. I forgot to fill the steeringoil reservoir. I lett the egine run idle for a few minutes. No noise from the pump. A day later i tried to turn the steeringwheel, but it was hard as rock. So i don't know where the problem is. From the coupler, pump or rack solenoid? Any experience?
Try lifting the front wheels and turn the steering with the engine off and key in POS II to unlock the steering. It should turn easily. Verify the speed sensitive assist sensor is properly plugged in - check wire too. From memory, when this sensor goes bad the steering is hard to turn - if your rack is second hand maybe it's the sensor. From what the internet says, p/s pump running dry for a few minutes should not damage the pump, just make sure to use Pentosin fluid.
@@Peppermint1 the car is "in the air" for a couple of weeks now. One wheel is of. The sensor is from the previus rack and worked fine. Tomorrow i try turning with the engine off.
thanks for the video ! Question... is Pentaflex white lithium grease ok to use for the u-joint ?
Any lubricant is good but what is important is to keep the grease from leaking on top of the steering rack box - there is a rubber seal that in contact with any non synthetic grease will swollen and start leaking and ruin the rack. If you spray too much grease on the u-joint, it will start leaking on that seal after a few days. So use a full synthetic grease and protect it from leaking down the shaft on that steering box seal czcams.com/video/ZbbJXuiSQ2M/video.html
@@Peppermint1 thanks... but I'm not sure any lube will do because of freezing... Volvo sells this 1161669 steering gear grease but I can't get an answer from them if thats for the u-joints. And I'm assuming the bottom rack is lubed by the power steering fluid..... It's odd that volvo doesn't sell that rubber seal as a part, so I might have to make one. thanks again
@Gino DiClemente You need a fluid to penetrate inside the bearing, solid grease may not work. For the rack box seal the idea is to keep any oils from leaking down the rack shaft onto that seal - it can damage the seal from the outside because it's rubber and may get attacked by petroleum products
@@Peppermint1 just finished the lube. No more stiffness. Thanks again. Note for those with the xc90, it doesn't have a joint to remove bolt. Rather the u joint inside the car is way high underneath the dash...can feel it and see it but it's very hard to get under and see it to lube. Might have to do it blind. The lower joint under the boot is the same as in this video and is the main one to lube. I first sprayed with seafoam penetrant then white lithium grease from a tube. Wished I used the gooey marine grease instead because the lithium seems too thin.
@@diclemeg hi, what year is your xc90 as mine is 2007 and my steering is very stiff when parking, I'm wondering if doing this will work , or if I have speed sensitive steering, did this fix your problem, thanks
Thank$'s
Welcome
What steering wheel is this ? Where did you get it ?
It's only a picture from Internet, maybe it's an R one ?
Can this cause wheel misalignment?
No