Volvo S60/V70/XC70/XC90 P2 2004 2.5T Steering Rack Replacement
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- Video demonstrating how to remove/re-install a steering rack, power steering pump, high pressure and return line on a 2004 Volvo S60. Also switched over from threaded lines to push in lines.
I did my steering rack this past weekend, and I just want you to know how much help this video was. I don't think I would have been able to figure it out without your help. Thank you so much!
O9o99oo
Best youtube story ever...
So here I am watching this video last night getting ready for the junkyard today.
Find a volvo with a rack, start working, lo and behold who else is working on the volvo next to me pulling out an axle other than @Bigtime McAlpine itself.
Thanks for all the tips and lending some tools! Really nice to meet you. Will comment again with any tips on replacement once I finish the job!
P90Puma glad it worked out. You pulled that rack out as quick as an experienced mech would have. I hope the re-Install goes smoothly.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine in the end it all worked out but we snapped the 10mm bolt on the yoke to column connection. That was a fun adventure that meant one more trip back to the junkyard and quite the workout for the M12 hackzall. All up and running now!
P90Puma nooo! Did that happen at wreckyard or at home? I guess you then destroyed it with the sawzall? Hard core! Feel free to reach out in the future for volvo stuff. Pierre_mcalpine@rogers.com.
P90Puma hey Syl - did you happen to leave a 1/2 female square to 10mm hex female adapter at the yard? Send me an email at pierremcalpine@gmail.com and I will send you a pic back. Also, we have a Slack group created for volvo guys in GTA if I have your email I can add you if you are interested.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine That’s a bit frightening to hear that he snapped the bolt. Maybe lower the subframe, heat up the bolt for 30+ seconds with a propane torch, then remove the bolt with a flare wrench?
Thumbs up for the effort of filming this 👍 You basically made a conversion from the 2001-mid2004 SMI rack to the late2004+ ZF rack, with all the stuff needed: pump, lines, lower coupler (the inner and out tie rods are also different). I'd just add that the bolt at 1:08:15 is a steering shaft wing screw, a shear safety bolt - in case of a severe crash this bolt will shear to prevent the steering wheel and column from moving towards the driver. It has to be mounted with the head sitting upwards & torqued at 30 Nm (22 ft.lb)
Peppermint thank you! Good comments re the column bolt. I immediately ran out to check the orientation of mine - all good! Thank you also for calling out the torque for that one! Keep up the good work at your end with you S60 videos etc!
@@Bigtime_mcalpine Cheers!
Big thanks to both of you for your great videos. I was wondering about converting my 01 V70 rack from SMI to ZF, this makes the process very clear.
Bigtime McAlpine - Thank you for your great videos I have watched a lot of your content and am grateful for your efforts!
Peppermint - This torque spec is the info I came to this video to find, and here you are in the comments!! Love your vids also, sir, and thank you for answering. Also watched a lot of your vids as well!
@@diggitydudeski Most welcome
You Canadians love these Volvos. I love mine too!!!! One of the best cars I have ever owned for sure.
You did a great job making this video, wish I had found it before. The other video's on this subject are terrible. I started this project around when you posted this and am just finishing up. Between stuck bolts and nuts, trying to get the right rack ordered (with/without sensor), terrible engineering, no help and no clue this has been an absolute nightmare of project! To get to my rear motor mount bolt I had to loosen the tortion/sway bar which is why I am searching again. It needs to be rotated a 15-20 degrees so I can connect the sway bar, but that is a guess. If I lived in the country this car would have been turned into a chicken coop or something. Again, nice job! And thank you!
Another Mike oh man I feel for you. I have not messed with the sway bar on the S60 but I did battle with it on my V40. What a nuisance!!! Dumb question but have you disconnected the sway bar from the end links? That would definitely make things easier. Also, go buy some longer bolts for the u-bracket to get the bracket tightened down loosely, then take the longer bolts out if you want and replace them (one at a time) with the shorter bolts. There really isn’t much room in there to get to the lower bolt on that darned rear engine mount. It is a royal pain. Good luck!
This is what CZcams is all about, informational vids just like this one.
Looking at a low budget 04 V70 wagon for a daily, I don't mind wrenching on my autos but man you appear well versed when dealing with a wrench and it was still a fight. I'd buy you a beer mate if I ever run into you.
InCahoots you can’t go wrong on an 04 V70. Loads of space, some amount of luxury and just doesn’t rust. Best to get a front wheel drive though unless you are a glutton for punishment. Also handy to have some wreckyards nearby as the car does have some quirks but nothing that a $20 purchase at the yard can’t fix. Thanks for the comments.
InCahoots glad I could be of assistance! Thanks for the compliments!
Excellent video. I'm about to swap the steering rack on my 2005 XC70. Watched this video first to know what I was getting into and help me develop a game plan.
Ryan Loos keep in mind that you will have the awd stuff to deal with too. Would like to hear about how that comes into play as I too now have an XC.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine The angle gear is a bit in the way for loosening the top rear motor mount bolt but otherwise it didn't seem to be in the way that much for me. I removed the sub frame completely for my swap to gain better access to connect the lines.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine Time to do the steering rack again! I'm going to chuck another used rack in. Car is getting near 600,000km.
just bought an xc70 that i thought had a bad tie rod end. after a little digging it was the rack. i will be using this video in the next week or so!! this is my second volvo wagon in the driveway. cant get over how well these cars run with 150k plus miles on them.
I have to agree with you there! Good luck with the job.
I want to thank you for this video really saved a brother. I worked on a customers valve XC 90 TWC 2004 AWD replaced his high pressure hose and this video really guided me
3 yrs later and i'm ready to install a new pressure line, awd makes it difficult.
i installed a mid rise lift 3 months ago to help working on the volvo but i can't even see the rack.
This will be fun.
Good luck! Yeah AWD adds a few annoying steps for sure!
Im at the stuck stage atm, got most of the bolts and nuts off except for that left side engine mount. Good video, luckily i wont have to change the pipes. Im a little concerned about dropping the sub frame too much and damaging the electrical conduit. Fingers crossed i get the rack out tomorrow without a drama.
Wow, first of all congratulations on your perseverance. I found a 2004 V70 that has some power steering issues and wondered how difficult a job it was to change out the rack. My eyes are opened to the difficulty. Just have to decide if its worth it. I have an 89 240 and am considering the v70 for my daughter. Thanks!
The original early style return hose extra length and bends are there for cooling purposes. Volvo decided to remove the cooler on newer style racks, probably additional cost vs. efficiency was not worth it.
my XC90 just want to change this part :D next summer i need to do it. Great video THX
I just took a break and stumbled across youtube rolling at 42:15 into the video where the high pressure hose bracket is being removed. I'm reaching for it underneath the car with a small 10MM socket. Still just as fun.
U just got a new subscriber
Great video. Thanks. Used this info to remove ZF rack on 2004 XC70. Replaced leaking and badly corroded hydraulic lines. Now ready for reassembly.
1. Are the bolts from steering rack to subframe stretch or standard? I've found confusing info online.
2. Source for O-rings for the hydraulic lines out of/into the rack itself and for high and low pressure lines between steering rack and pump? The original O-rings "look good" and these seals were not leaking before removing the rack. But it would be silly to reassemble only to find that reusing the original O-rings no longer creates good seals.
Good to hear. I think you can get those o-rings at FCP Euro or IPD USA if in the US, or volvooftorontoparts.ca or Germanparts.com here in Canada. I don’t think those bolts are stretch but the subframe bolts are. Having said that, I’ve removed 4 subframes on my Volvos and have always reused those bolts without issue. Your call.
I love Volvo cars
You are one patient man. I have 2005 volvo s60 2.5T AWD and 185,000miles, and have always wondered about the Rack and Pinion steering. I had the steering U joint replaced 2, 000mile ago and the clunk has not returned. When I steer in a parking lot at low speed, at the end of travel there is a slight clunk noise. I'm hoping not to do the job you did.
Thanks for videoing. I had the mounts done. I was able to do the rear top, bottom torque, and passenger side side, and lower front but I didn't want to tackle the rear lower. Indie guy did it.
How many miles on your '04? I see the yellow Bilstein struts. I've never replaced my, but no bounce to them so a previous owner, I'm taking, did replace them.
I would dread taking off the subframe. I see you have the blue IPD bushings to reduce the vibration. I had those put in at 183,000mi.
Love how you have your son helping you. I had to sequester my daughter's little hand to put in the passenger low beam head light. What a PITA that was.
mark humphrey thank you for the comments. My ‘04 has 171k miles on it. I don’t think the clunk you describe would mean a new rack. Usually a new rack is warranted when it leaks or when there is stiffness that cannot be addressed with a new pump. Yeah the shocks are a few months old. When I bought the vehicle earlier this year the originals were still on there and they were absolutely finished. Not sure I would go with the Bilsteins again. Great for handling but a bit brittle over bumps and cracks. Hoping new tires will address some of that next year. My son is great and he is a patient helper!
from NZ, right hand drive V70XC cross country, found this very helpfull for getting my steering rack out, rebuilt and put back together again, I do have a query that someone may know a bit about though, on the right side of the chassis rail just at the rear of the subframe i have a seemingly disconnected hose that is sucking while the engine runs and makes a sort of rattling noise, along with this I have eveloped a pretty good size engine oil leak was wondering if the 2 are interconnected somehow
Michael glad to hear that the video helped! Not sure about your hose query but I would suggest posting on swedespeed.com. Lots of knowledgeable forum members on there who will no doubt chime in.
thanks for vid its a arduous job
great vid much needed i have a bad leak in my 2002 volvo s60
could i message or video chat you for help once i start , my parts just came in
This looks fun
I have never commented on a CZcams video. Ever. But you my friend have possibly saved me at least $1,000. The rack and pinion in our 2006 XC90 (also P2 platform) needs to be replaced at 185,000 miles (play on the left side causing the steering to wander). The dealer quoted me $2,400 parts and labor. The job itself is not outside my skill set, but I questioned if I would be able to lower the sub frame enough and still work under the car.
I spent two hours on Google before I found your video. Could I suggest that you add the other P2 platform models (S80, V70, XC70, XC90) to your title or description so that others may benefit from your great work?
Brian Lausch music to my ears, Brian. I have no interest in likes, views, or any other CZcams bs, was just hoping this would help someone out there. So glad it has! It’s not a bad job but you are right. It sure helps to know what you are getting into! Good luck let me know how you make out!
Brian Lausch - the lower steering joint can be a b$tch to get out but don’t give up: just get the rubber dome cover out of the way from inside the cabin and veeeeeery carefully apply heat to the bolt from inside the wheel well to loosing up the red locktite that is on the bolt. It doesn’t take much heat.
Best CZcams I've ever seen! My XC70 had a slightly leaking top seal where the U-joined is fitted. The ATF has been leaking over the anti-roll bar for years I suppose and 'eaten' the rubber resulting in lots of noise. So finally I decided to get to the job only to find out the bar must be taken out completely to fit something alternatively since the rubbers are sealed in a welded closed housing. Taking the bar out also requires the subframe to be lowered and here is my problem..... how did you manage to avoid the engine being lowered too far and damaging connections etc. You did release all brackets I believe, keeping the engine 'hanging' on the bar showing in your video. Can you elaborate please?
Yep, I just suspended mine from the support brackets. There is any easier way to do it though: I’ve since done the job again on my other P2 and I just used a Jack under the oil pan with a large 2x4 across the oil pan itself to distribute the weight. You will need two jacks though if you do it this way. The other will be needed to support subframe as it drops and again when you need to raise it. I would do it that way if I needed to do again.
Will lowering the subframe damage the high or low pressure hoses? Are the hoses attached to anything where lowering the subframe will stress/pull them apart?
Hello there!
First of all, thank you for this great video. On my car (2003 V70 2.5T, around 185.000 miles) the steering rack is clucking and leaking. My mechanics said, that the steering rack must be refurbished. The refurbishing itself can be done for a reasonable price at a trusted shop. But the labor cost for removing and reinstalling the rack is horrible, so I decided to make research if I can make it or not (as a DIY medium level car enthusiast). My question is, if I would like to only remove the rack to send it to refurbish, I shall only do the removing process, what you did in the video?
Thank you!
Péter yes, that would be the first part of video only. Just be sure to inspect hoses AND replace the o-rings at rack before re-installing - you will reinstall too, right? Let me know how you make out!
@@Bigtime_mcalpine Thank you for the answer. You mean two small o-ring where the hose connect to the rack?
Péter That is correct
Péter to be clear: you would need to undo lower steering joint from rack, undo the two tie-rods, remove upper nut from rear engine mount, take rack off subframe, lower subframe, remove rear mount (lower bolt), take hoses off rack and remove rack. All the while supporting engine from above. Good luck.
Hey there, great vid, nice to see a good long detailed tutorial. I live in near Toronto, called around a few wreckers for S60s, not much luck.. which one did you go to??
Hey @bdawgofthenorth send me an email at pierre_mcalpine@rogers.com
Thank you for posting this! I have had similar issues with my car and had a similar course of action(reservoir, pump, hose, etc). Looking to do something similar with my car and update from the SMI rack, but the varying brands and setups are so confusing. It looks like your rack came with the speed sensitive feature as well?
impulse922 correct mine had speed sensitive steering. I ended up getting an “R” rack just because it happened to be available. I think those older racks are problematic. If I were to to do it again I would stick to any 05+ rack and upgrade the pipes and pump. Unless of course you are buying new. In that case you would get good longevity out of the original version of course.
Great video! I have 06 Xc70 with ZF rack, steers well, no leaks however there are clunking noises when i turn the wheel sharply back and forth. Tie rods seem to be in decent shape. Hope it's not the rack. Any ideas?
Sure sounds like tie-rods. Are you sure you checked inner toe rods too?
Just a final question before I head out and go ahead and do the job. The 10mm bolt for the steering shaft, I can see that you removed it by using 2-3 extensions. But is it possible to remove that bolt when the subframe is lowered? I wanted to use a flare wrench to remove that bolt - just to make sure I don't strip it. Also, in regards to the steel steering pipes, can you use any standard O - ring on them? Thanks!
I’m sure you could but it’s more difficult. As for the o-rings, no. You need the order the volvo o-rings or find some of same grade.
Great channel
HELP. 2004 XC70 Front impact sensors. * Please tell me the location. * This car is making an ass out of me. Want to test to see if it latches closed or resets to open after a dash airbag went off. Sending out SRS Module to get reset. Doesn't seem to have wiring to detect if airbag is bad or impact sensor is bad. NOt positive though. But where the hell are they located? I have bumper and grill off and removed front right headlight. Following all cables, cannot find impact sensor. Wonder what color the connector is. HELP
Great video!!! Can it be applied to Volvo S60 2005, 2.5T AWD? Thank you!
Yes, same job. Good luck!
If you were going to let a shop do this what national shop would you trust ?
Did you have to detach the front engine mounts so when you lowered the subframe they were not damaged?
Don Willcox yes I think so. If I did not I should have.
I'm planning to change my delivery pipes and can I change the pipes without taking the rack out. Thank you
Can you please help me with changing the pressure release pipe with out taking the rack out of the vehicle. Thank you.
Excellent video my friend. I decided to do the job myself on my 04 V70. I ended up breaking the lower bolt on rear engine mount, but I managed to uncouple the hoses using stuby wrenches. So, I'm not sure how to remove the engine mount but I figured I'll tackle that once the rack is out. My challenge today is separating the lower steering coupler from the rack. Even after removing the 10m bolt, the shaft seems seized to the U joint. How were you able to separate them?
SweidanTube first off you should still be able to get the rear mount out if bolt is broken. Just make sure torsion bar is off (long black bar at top) and that the two bolts are removed the from the passenger side mount under crank. Then jack transmission up carefully and there should be loads of room for mount to come out.
SweidanTube as for the darned u-joint, get yourself a long prybar and a small sledge hammer and tap the pry bar into the slit on the u joint from the side (through wheel well). Do that and then go underneath and tap upwards using same tools. Go back and tap into slit on side, etc etc. Sometimes it take a bit but it will eventually give. Once you get past that, smooth sailing!
SweidanTube you can also spray some penetrant into the sleeve and let sit overnight.
SweidanTube you better not have given up...
@@Bigtime_mcalpine Oh, I was able to get it our but with difficulty. Neither the coupler or engine mount would come off. I ended up having to loosen front bolts on subframe. I removed the sway bar and connect rods. That gave me enough room at back of subframe to twist the rack about 20 degrees counter-clock wise and fold the coupler as it was exiting the body cavity. Then, I pulled the base of rack straight under driver side versus pulling it out of the wheel well. Once out, I knocked the mount loose. I turned the rack upside down on a vise, with coupler hanging like a fruit. Sprayed PBlaster, and used gravity to hit it with a pry bar and a sledge hammer. It finally came off.
Now, I didn't want to risk buying a used rack and getting another leak. I just finished rebuilding the gear housing, and replaced the oil seals. That wasn't difficult considering my only problem was a leak from the shaft neck. My rack was made by ZF. I found the right kit, part# 28-2374 at Bestpartsonline for $40. Connect rods and eng mount was $54 from ebay. I started installing the rack yesterday.
Is this going to be the same on a xc90 V8?
I started this process on my 2002 s60 with a leaking hard line on the original SMI rack. Of course the bolt into the column u-joint broke. Any tips on how to get it separated? I've done this job before but there is just no room under there on this car!
Preston Turner ah man, that sucks but it can easily happen. Well not the end of the world. Just disconnect the upper steering joint from the steering column and pull that out along with the rack. You will need more clearance on the bottom though so I would suggest taking subframe right out. That will allow you to “operate” on the lower joint out of the car.
The power steering rack on my 04 V70 is leaking on the right side. It's not leaking a whole lot so I'm not worried about it all that much for right now.
But when turning it sometimes jerks and I think that the u joint may have failed. I don't want to take it into the mechanic since I just paid almost 900 bucks to get it good enough to get home.
Do you think I can do this by myself?
mountaincarjunkie if it’s your u joint the most common symptom will be that the steering wheel doesn’t return to center coming out of a turn and you have to help it. It becomes a safety issue pretty quickly. My guess on the jerking would be rack itself or inner or outer tie-rod.
I have a 2006 XC90. I have had no issues with power steering leaks. I had to get a alignment & the next day I had a leak & it became worse over the next couple of days. Is it possible the alignment caused the leak?
Nope
Hello, thanks for this video. Do you think it’s possible to do on jacks? I don’t really have access to a lift
Yes but you will need two jacks: one to support engine throughout the job and a second Jack to lower/support/raise the subframe. I did it this way the second time around for my XC. The Jack under the engine pan gets in the way but I think I would do it this way anyway if I were to to the job again.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine Ah ok. I am very nervous about the job to be honest. Also I have a turbo, and I think there are some lines that will block the steering rack from getting out.
Do you recommend first trying to lower the subframe just to get a feel for how the job will go?
@@aleksander60v mine was turbo as well. It will not get in the way. No, I would not recommend that. I would start with making sure you can loosen the steering column bolt in wheel well. Do not break that bolt. If it is not budging very carefully apply some heat at low flame. The bolt has blue loktite on it and heat loosens it up. If you can get past that step you should be good. Be aware that if all goes well you will be at this for 3/4 of a day. Ideally do the removal and then rest up and tackle reinstallation on day 2.
Also note that Volvo updated the pressure and return line designs. I found this out the hard way on my XC. If you buy a new rack from dealer you may need new lines too. Be sure to check with them.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine gotcha! Thanks for the encouragement!
I plan on doing it on jacks. I have a huge floor jack aswell as a smaller jack. I also have air tools, electric tools, etc.
Did you also have two lines that were right up to the steering rack? I guess they weren’t in the way for you.
Also, how is it possible to try to undo that bolt without lowering the subframe? :)
And in regards to the pipes that go into the steering rack box. Do they use O-rings or something that needs to be replaced for the new rack?
Anything else I should be aware of? Things that can go wrong, etc
Thanks!!
Hello, thanks for posting. I have the same vehicle and the same color, 200,000 miles on it. 2.5T, FWD. It spent most of its life in NE Ohio, lots of snow, salt, and rain.
I have a slow leak and I can see fluid on a line right below the rack, so not sure if the rack is bad or a line is leaking. I just got the vehicle back in my possession a few weeks ago from a relative who used it for a few years out of state. It is second vehicle so no rush getting it fixed and I will try it myself. Just put it on ramps for a quick look but need to get is on jack stands and get in there with a mirror for closer inspection.
I think the rack was replaced once, maybe at 150,000 miles. Steering is normal, I don't see any leaks around the boots.
A few questions. 1. I am looking to do the most basic fix, if the rack is bad there is no reason for me do do the conversion upgrade, correct?
2. If a line is leaking, any guess on if I can replace the bad line without removing the rack. I know is a pure guess, but that's fine I just trying to get an idea of what I am looking at time wise. Thanks again
There is no need to do a conversion. I just happened to find a nice looking newer version of the rack and decided to take the plunge. As for your leak you will need to figure out what is leaking. If it’s one of the lines that makes up part of the rack itself then you have to determine if it’s repairable and whether rack needs to come out to fix. As I recall, one of the internal lines on my rack looked pretty rusty. As I recall the lines facing the front of the car are part of the rack itself and the ones at the rear (harder to see!) are the return and pressure lines which are separate parts. Hope that helps.
If the leak is on the return hose (the one that comes up along the firewall) you can replace hose pretty easily without taking rack out. If it’s the pressure line I think it would be worth trying (without removing rack) but be sure to have a back-up plan.
My river side broke, can I fix just on side or do I need to peace the whole thing?
Inner and outer tie rods can be replaced one side or the other but if rack is bad, the whole thing needs to be replaced.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine thanks I really appreciate your help
Good Day. I have a 01 v70 t5 2.3 steering rack has around 75000 miles new pump steering at slow speeds is a lil stiff than at faster rpm much easier could this be a bad pump
Unless it is leaking or making groaning noises I would think not but heck I’m just a guy doing repairs in my driveway. What do I know?
PLEASE can somebody confirm me if the steering rack from an S80 around 2000 is posible to use on a 2003 S60?
This looks a really hard job
way beyond my capabilities
cool video though😎
didnt watch the whole thing yet, but about how long did the job take you?
Hi, it’s been a while but I would plan on 4-6 hrs. Best to break up over 2 days.
Thanks for a great video!! I'm doing this right now on a 2004 V70R. Parts from FCP. I'm having trouble separating the steering knuckle from the rack. I have the bolt removed- have turned the wheel so that the knuckle is exposed and I'm pounding upward on it with a steel shaft. Has anyone had this problem and if so- any suggestions how to separate the two??
John Klooster don’t pound upwards, pound sideways on the thick metal part that holds the ball joint in place. 10 hard hits should loosen it up.
John Klooster like this: go to the 4min mark and see how he hammers away sideways. If it’s not working just get a bigger hammer.
John Klooster czcams.com/video/VUbhgviE8HQ/video.html
John Klooster Ah, wait I think you are talking about the steering U-joint aren’t you? If so, they can be stubborn. Pounding from below is good but you may also need to hit the seam in the u-joint to pry it apart just a bit. It is pretty soft aluminium so eventually it will give. You can also try spraying some penetrant in from the drivers footwell and let it soak over night.
Yes- its the u-joint!! Thanks Bigtime (I'm a fellow Canadian living in Montana- grew up in the Georgetown area)@@Bigtime_mcalpine
So the question remains: Would you do it again? Or would you rather pay someone to do it? Lol.. Greetings from Windsor. Zero scrapyards down here with volvo's (except for detroit but border's closed). Makes it difficult to source parts so I have a lot of aftermarket on the vehicles.
For sure I would do it again. Job isn’t that bad if you set the time aside and don’t mind messing around lying under car in driveway.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine I have the 2004 2.4 S60 with the threaded lines. Pressure hose is leaking. Do you think it would be possible to snake it through without mucking about with lowing the subframe etc? Threading the flare nut on the rack would use a stubby 17mm I believe
Ill just keep adding fluid.
What area did you wrap your engine mount chains around to support the engine? Through and around the transmission?
I think I used both engine support eyelets. One is near trans and other is offset from it and is closer to rhs of cabin.
For what it’s worth, I did this job again with my xc- this time I supported engine from below. Worked fine.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine I have a 2007 XC70 that I am working through this currently. Have it up to the subframe being lowered but I am struggling to find a good balance for supporting the front of the car. I thought I had found a good spot but when I lowered my jack onto the stands the front of the car tipped forward! Not sure if I didn't have the jacks near enough the front of the car or if it wasn't high enough up.
@@Vesperia342 yikes! I’ve had really good luck putting 2x6’s under the flat metal area just behind the rear front mounts. Since you need to remove those metal triangles put the pieces of wood right behind them. Make sure the pieces are large enough that they sit on the entire flat structure there. That should do it.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine I'm running out to get some 2 x 6's after watching your video closer, that was my next step. It's been very helpful and I really appreciate the full walk through!
I just change power steering pump and after topping off with fluid without dripping a drop I notice a lot of fluid on the car board box I lay down after a turn the car on could this be from the rack or could it be a hose on the rack??
Marco Deluca there is a special procedure for refilling. If you don’t follow it the fluid will foam and overflow. Raise front wheels off ground, fill fluid, with ignition OFF turn wheel all the way to one side then other. Repeat 5-10 times while occasional checking fluid level. Then turn car on. Turn wheel slowly to full lock hold for 3sec then to other side for 3s. Turn car off, top up fluid. Wait till bubbling subsided, repeat. Keep doing this until you no longer need to top up.
Yes I did follow this procedure I don't have foam and made sure I didn't over fill. But just wondering if that much could come from rack and pinion line instead of seals on the rack?
Marco Deluca yeah I could see high volume coming out of lines - especially if it’s the high pressure line feeding the rack. If you take the splash guard off underside of engine and get underneath with a flashlight you should be able to tell where leak is originating.
Ok will do because right after i was done with filling reservoir with all the steps and engine on for 10 min and rechecking and added lil more no foam. there was a 12'' by 12 " fluid spot on the cardboard I put down.
What would be the problem if my subframe isn't coming down when i'm lowering the Jack?
Did you disconnect all three mounts, the steering u-joint and the steering rack? If so, sometimes it takes some prying to get it loose.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine I can't thank you enough man, i got it out one minute ago. The subframe did lower, but not as much as i wanted it to. You're video was extremely helpful. Although maybe i should have done something different for my first project 😆. Anyways i'll watch your video backwards to get it back in 😬
Eirik Rødsmoen wow that’s ambitious for a first project. You are brave my friend! Take your time with the reinstall. You are in the home stretch. Also make sure there is cold beer in fridge!
Which place can do this for me inexpensively ?
The part is quite expensive so probably the biggest savings is to get the rack from your local wreckyard. Taking one out at yard is not for the faint of heart so prob best to just go to a yard that does removal for you. Selecting the right rack is pretty easy - feel free to email me at pierre_mcalpine@rogers.com for pointers.
or possibly a slightly more in depth part of the pressure hose removal portion, pics,video what erv is possible
YungxGod , thanks for the comments. Sorry don’t have anymore footage than what is in video. If you are only replacing the HP hose I think you may still be stuck lowering the subframe but I’m not sure. You could try doing it without lowering first and see how far you get. You may find that a) you won’t get good enough access to the rack connection and b) you won’t be able to maneuver the hose up in front of intake manifold. Replacement of the hose itself is a no brainer: one 10mm bracket near front, one plastic clip on passenger side, another 10mm bracket on back side and a clip on the rack itself. The challenge is access. Not sure this helps you - good luck with the job.
@@Bigtime_mcalpine definitely did help i have a better picture in my head of what im getting myself into now.One more question, did you find that you nbeded a specaiial tool to remove the rear end of the pressure line?
YungxGod good to hear. No,no special tools required, just small hands and some small wrenches. Good luck!
@@Bigtime_mcalpine lol thanks
FYI much harder on AWD versions as Bilevel Gear limits access!#@^?!
Just did the same job on my xc a few months back. The angle gear didn’t really get in the way actually. Was not too bad.
en que porquería trasnformaron el afamado coche volvo únicamente por usara el motor diferente a lo que fue siempre es preferible desmontar el motor para realizar el cambio de muffler rack and pinion y cualquier otra parte del coche
If you were going to let someone else do it who would you trust to replace this rack and pinion ex I know sears is not around but I was I the past trust them always honest unlike the crooks out there who mess with other thugs with your car to rack up money.
There is nothing super specialized about this repair. A good trusted local mechanic should be able to plow through this without blinking.
hello?
este supuesto mecánico tiene meno conocimiento de la mecánica de volvo que de cómico nada de lo que hace es necesario para cambiará el rack and pinion
God Dammit Volvo engineers it's disgusting to repair, even simple things Goddammit.
This company should disappear from the market.
Or have a better engineer. Goddammit, Volvo.