Torque Wrenches for the Trail and Home Shop - What You Should Know
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- čas přidán 12. 06. 2024
- Testing out a variety of torque wrenches. Which is the best?
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FYI The ones with the 2 rods/pointer are called deflecting beam torque wrenches, split beam wrenches are another type. And although I totally understand why Russ is only featuring bike company branded stuff (its a bike channel duh) Please people, at least look to the automotive and engineering industries for your standard shop tools before bike tool brands, I love Park Tools bike specific tools they are the best around, but some of the prices they charge for standard shop tools is borderline criminal.
Whether the torque setting is afected by hand position should depend on the wrench design. For a beam style torque wrench (the one with the long pointer) it does matter. In fact, the handle is designed with a pivot in the middle. You are supposed to hold your hand so that the force is going entirely through the pivot and no force is pressing either end of the handle against the beam. For wrenches with the entire torque sensing element inside the head of the wrench, hand position on the shaft of the wrench may not matter. Best to read the instructions.
It is, of course, true that your hand position on the wrench determines how much torque a given force from your hand applies at the wrench head, but measuring the torque is a separate function from developing the torque. Measuring it may or may not depend on hand positoin depending on the measurement mechanism.
Well, maybe the Park beam style wrenches don't have the pivot handle design. You just have to grip the wrench in the place they put the handle.
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@@PathLessPedaledTV The click style wrench he is discussing does not have it’s torque measuring system entirely in the head. Therefore, hand position does change its results. The safe option is to only hold the wrench where the designers put the handle.
@@PathLessPedaledTV yup, but in wrenches styled like topeak nano it doesn't matter where you are holding it, becouse the measuring part has it's own pivot so you can use that "bits" with preset torque value with any wrench you want.
@@PathLessPedaledTV if the mechanism that measures the torque is inline with the screw or the bit, it doesn't matter because its directly on top of the screw. If the pivot of the torque wrench is offset then it matters where you hold it. Think of it like this, if you attached the topeak torque stick to a click style torque wrench and you turned it but only holding the ratchet head. The topeak will still read but the click style wont because you're not putting force on the clicking hinge.
Russ, if you go to an auto parts or hardware store, you can purchase 1/4” square to 1/4” bit adapters. I leave them on my torque wrench & ratchets all the time and just use bits.
Awesome run down. And thanks for the shout out! I was pretty surprised by that result.
I have the larger park beam style and it works great. Bought it at recommendation of a friend of mine who has owned bike shops and wrenched for many years. Simple to use and no worries about calibration issues.
One plus of the park tool torque wrenches is that you can torque clockwise AND counterclockwise. Very useful for reverse threaded things like my farming vector pedals.
Good overview. I bought one of those sub-$250 US bike mechanic sets and the only the torque wrench was sub-par. One or both the twin beam Park tools looks great the shop and then the Topeak last demonstrated for the traveling kit. Well done.
Super cool! Thanks! I've always orbited the idea of using a torque wrench. Now I feel pretty equipped to give it a go.
Useful info! Thanks for the comparison! I was thinking of adding a torque wrench recently to my tool library. 😀👍
I've had the Silca for 5 years now and have used it not only on bikes but general usage around the house. The torque bit can be hard to read at times but I love how precise I can set the torque on those low torque applications. On the wrench, I find the really tall top, where you insert part of the handle, gets in the way a lot of times especially when working in tight spaces. I understand why it's like that but I've honestly ran into more situations where it was a hindrance rather than me actually benefiting from the T-handle configuration. The magnetically attached handle extension also does not provide confidence when I really have to crank down on it. Also, a hole on the other side where the bit attaches into the wrench would have been nice. I don't know if they designed the wrench to accept bits directly or if I always have to use the extender, but there have been multiple times when I had to use a rubber pad to get the bit out of the wrench. A hole on the other side would have been useful to push the bit out.
I picked up the Silca option a bit ago. Useful in the shop, but most useful to pack and take along on when riding a new bike. Making adjustments while out riding it was comforting to get things set to the proper torque. It is a bit annoying sometimes to read the small lines for the torque values, but I think the latest version has a larger diameter barrel at the bottom, which makes it a bit easier to read the values.
I agree, the Silca is a pain to read, especially in low light. I think that the markings are unique to each individual unit, that’s why the are printed on.
I almost don’t care though. It is such a wonderful tool to hold in your hands and use that you tend to forgive that shortcoming. Like a Leica or a Linhof, you almost want to find reasons to use it just so you can.
The storage pouch is well thought out quality as well.
Well done. Very interesting and helpful. Many comments submitted by the time I'm making mine have been very instructive as well. Thanks.
very helpful video! currently I have the silca one and I like it ok but for at home use I may get a split beam after watching this. I'm pretty sure you saved me some money
Russ, the NanoTorq DX holds two bits inside the handle using magnets - which you didn't show us in the video - depress the button and "unsheath" the carrier. Is this maybe where the 2 missing bits are? On shorter rides I just carry the two most common bits in the handle and the most regularly used torque head - it slots on the end of the handle in-line - and leave the rest at home.👍
I own both the TW 6.2 and the silca kit, and I find myself using the silca most (probably out of all my tools). Bought it after you posted a video about it and its my favourite tool by far. The tolerances on the bits are spot on, so you dont end up stripping heads which is a huge bonus. For bottom bracket/cassette installation and tightening I find going by feel works better, rather than trusting the "click" of the 6.2. I usually end up just using a regular ratcheting tool or wrench for the heavier torque applications.
I already have too many torque wrenches and I still want to get a couple more haha. Lots of good designs out there, thanks for going through so many options!
The Park Tool ATD is pretty sweet. Quite a nice selection of tools. Great video, as always.
I ordered beam torque wrench today after I watched this video. It is budget item to tighten the lockring which is not frequently used in bicycle maintenance. It is definitely good choice instead of TW-6.2!
Big fan of the Topeak NTX+ which I got for Xmas last year. I pair it with the Lyzene chain tool / quick link pliars which fit inside the Topeak pouch. Makes a great kit which I originally assembled for bikepacking but that goes out on every ride with me.
I liked the introduction of the split beam torque wrenches.
I forgot that this variantion also exists.
I would prefer them becaus of the pros you mentioned. Because I always forget to reset the standard wrenches.
I've been using those little Topeak torque bits in combo with my Silca ratchet kit, and it has worked well for me. I haven't had the problem with no feeling the click from them. I get the best of the Silca ratchet set up without the fiddly tiny numbers on their torque wrench.
A great video!!! And a great Sinn556 watch!!!
Very helpful video, I have often considered adding a torque wrench to my bike toolkit for home repairs, but never considered packing one for the road.
I'm considering getting a PrestaCycle preset torque wrench, mainly to work on my cockpit if it goes out of wack mid-ride and I can also use it to quickly realign a customer's cockpit at work where I'd be admittedly lazy to grab my 1/4-inch torque wrench.
I have a few ratchet tool kits Including the Ratchet Rocket, but I swapped in the smallest ratchet (comparable in size) from Home Depot because it's handle and the ratchet are separate, connected by a hinge so It can be used almost anywhere. My Torque wrench is from ProBike. The handle is good. The bits themselves are lower quality, but they work. They really enjoy rusting(kept oiled) so I'm replacing them with better versions but keeping the PB torque handle since it works well and the price was reasonable. Thanks for making the videos you make.
Thank you for all of this information, but it would be so nice if you showed us using the wrenches. Only two demonstrations would suffice: one with the beam type and one with the click type.
Russ, one think I discovered about the Topeak NTX+ about a year after getting it is that the handle on the chainbreaker can be removed and serves as a bit driver extender that you can use with the chonky torque adapter (or the regular driver). Not exactly Silca + Topeak, but close!
I've been happy with my Pro Bike Tool torque wrench for an at home model. I couldn't justify the expense of the Park Tool models which have less of a usable value range. The Pro Tools is 2-20nm. That said I've never looked into the split beam wrenches and really should. Price looks pretty nice on split beam with a much wider range.
As others have said, if the torque measuring mechanism is in the head, it doesn't matter where your hand is. The only one where it matters here is the beam handle with the wide scale near the hand.
The Topeak torqbar torque things slip at the correct torque, you just keep tightening, no need to stop at the click. Also the handle opens to store 2 bits and one of the torque things can be stored in the end. If you want to keep the box and bar together there are lugs on the box for an oring to hold them together.
beams! just about always win for me. ive used all kinds of fancy and find myself grabbing for the beam type most often.
I love my Silca allen keys, tight tolerances = 😊 bolt heads!
Felo torque limiting handles are a good option. I cover them on my channel. They make 3 different versions which cover different ranges. You need to get a bit-holding blade with it. The torque ranges are:
0.6 - 1.5 Nm
1.5 - 3.0 Nm
3.0 - 5.4 Nm
This video has given me something to consider for supplementing or replacing my current assortment of torque keys.
Regarding the various torque values you get depending on where you grab the handle, I believe that only applies to a click style wrench. If I interpreted Bike Sauce's video correctly, that has to do with the pivot for the click mechanism being offset from the pivot point of the bit. My thinking is that doesn't affect beam style wrenches or something like that Topeak Nano.
I used to work at a standards lab that calibrated and certified these things. The head on a torque wrench neither knows, or cares, where you apply force. As long as you are not applying force closer to the pivot point than the mechanism, you’re good.
Why it does still make a difference is the more you choke up on the handle the smaller the moment arm and the proportionally larger force you have to apply. This makes it harder to land on the target torque without overshooting.
There are some high end tools that actually slip when they reach the right torque, mostly for power tools on assembly lines. Even these are prone to over torque if driven faster that the speed the calibration was adjusted for.
I should add that the above applies mostly to the “click” style of wrench where the bending of the outer handle is pretty minimal. Beam wrenches need to be used right back at the handle, usually with your hand pressed up against some kind of hilt.
You should definitely have one for home. You really don't need one tho. The travel size ones are pretty cool.
As a NOOB, I chose Pro Bikes Torque Kit, affordable and gets the job done! I will at some point gravitate to the Park Tools Torque Wrench as ALL of my tools (minus the Pro Bike Kit) are by Park Tools.. I use the Topeka NX+ when I’m out of the home and riding.. Great Review.. 🇺🇸
As others have hinted, if what you have is a torque stick / torque sleeve or a digital torque adapter that pretty much "clicks" / senses torque (tortional stress calibrated to ft-lbs or Nm) in-line with the bolt being torqued, where you hold the tool from doesn't matter. If it is a click or beam torque wrench that senses the torque by taking into account the deflection of the tool itself (and it is typ. at 90 degrees from the bit/socket, i.e. not in the same axis), if you "brace" i.e. hold the tool closer to the pivot point, you decrease the % of deflection throwing the reading off, potentially by a lot. Further away might throw the reading off too, but by a smaller % and reduce the torque (because it is easier to bend the longer tool), which in general is preferable / safer for the bolt and/or parts.
I've been using IceToolz Xpert series torque wrench which goes up to 10nm and think it's pretty good.
Regarding Topeak Torqbar DX (6:06), it doesn't matter where you hold the handle. Effective handle length only matters if the torque detecting mechanism pivoting point and the axis of the bolt are not inline. So basically, on wrenches with pivoting heads the handle length is important. On wrenches that does the measurement in a mechanism coaxial to the bolt - handle doesn't matter.
Park ATD is the same as Topeak Torqbar DX in this regard.
Cheers!
Good to know.
I’d be curious too see you compare the Marque (Amazon brand) to the Park ATD. They look very similar in type and function. Curious how the accuracy, usability and durability compare.
The two missing bits for the nano torque bar from Topeak are probably in the handle itselt. There is a small button near the head which allows a hollow storage compartment to slide out of the bar.
If you thought the Silca torque tube you have now is frustrating, the first generation models had a single scale, but tightly packed. It was going to be $45 to get the torque tube you have now, so I opted to not bother. Reading that scale is my biggest complaint about that tool. It's a shame they can't improve it
Speaking as someone who has used a lot of torque wrenches, primarily in a nuclear plant, I say good review! I could never justify the price of the click-type Parks.. a few drops, or forget to put at lowest setting and they become a question mark; generally not worth it unless you have access to calibration equipment although it's nice that Park does offer a service. For the price of those, I'd much rather buy a Tekton for 1/3 the price and probably from the same Taiwan factory (this is one of my home wrenches, the other being an older Craftsman with a higher range and a 2nd older Craftsman beam-type which is also higher range). I am however very interested in the recently reintroduced Park beam wrenches as it's hard to find a good quality beam type torque wrench in the appropriate range for a bicycle... I plan to pick up the smaller one, and possibly both.
ATD 1.2 looks like it would be super handy in a shop environment where you can have one set up for most 4mm and another set up for most 5mm and just grab them throughout the day. Do those require being stored at the lower setting or do you just leave them be?
I could see throwing the ToPeak Nanotorque in my trekking bag but only after wrapping the box and wrench together with a user-supplied piece of Velcro strap; your valid criticisms aside, it looks like a reliable product that can withstand abuse. Hopefully I'm wrong but the Torq Stick just doesn't look very durable to me and maybe even a bit gimmicky... will be curious to see how it holds up in longer term reviews.
Would be totally interested in what Bike Sauce would say - some of the wrenches you talked about seemed like the mechanism is in line with the item being torqued. I think his point was that the mechanism was offset from that point leading to incorrect torques. I don't think it would change your evaluations, but I do think that perhaps they are less prone to error? (maybe specific to your Topeak comment where maybe whatever is sensing the torque is actually in the bit?). Great video! Are there standards for torques on any item, like a seatpost bolt, or is it always manufacturer specific?
I own most of the torque tools you are reviewing here, I guess that makes me a bike geek, lol, on the topeak torque bar, there’s a push button you didn’t mention, that button when pushed opens up the bar to store 2 bits maybe that’s where your other 2 bits are, and on the other end you can place your most commonly used torque key, they are magnetized so they stay put. I do agree with you regarding the separation of both the tools and the bar, I would have like to see a pouch like the silica to keep them in one spot, great review..
I want something in the lower nm values, what do you recommend ?
You mentioned the tw5.2 needing calibration, how is the Topeak stick different in that matter ? I need something in the lower NM range and looking at Topeak
It really shouldn't matter where you hold the tool since the torque is measured at the tool end. Holding a standard ratchet further to the end allows you to have more torque. But the torque wrench should always click at the set torque no matter where you hold it?
I'd be interested in a video that explains otherwise as well as how much variation there is. Do you have the link where you got that information from?
My thought exactly.
If you're holding non torque wrench tool it is obvious.
But for torque wrench u could see in these tool design regardless how you handle them.
@@arifazhari7598 czcams.com/video/RsMxtEx0uik/video.html
czcams.com/video/RsMxtEx0uik/video.html
It probably matters on the split beam, which is why they will often have a pivoting handle which can help you insure you are applying force precisely where you should be. The clicky type, I can't see how it would make any difference.
@@MitchCrane i did some googling. Some types of torque wrench doesn't have problem non whichever position you use the wrench.
For example the park tool ATP torque wrench. Dude the lever or handle is literally very close to the axle of movement. I am not trying to debate but the closer the hand position the greater the torque or force required to achieve it.
For beam type use the recommendation manual. But use common sense and logic when working with carbon or fragile bike part.
torque slick or Park Tool TW-1.2 Beam. Which one should I get if I only want 1.
Just to let you know the final ones are banding most engineering workshops, the ones that you were away from are the ones that everybody buys from Rail, to Aviation through to sophisticated engineering
The Topeak stores 2 bits in the tube. Maybe they are in there?
can you try bike hand torque wrench,everyone uses it from where I am
You should have added the title to the Check out Bike Sauce's torque video:
Why GRIP Position on Torque Wrenches MATTERS! // The MATH
It's a good engineer's explanation of why grip position matters on some torque wrenches.
Husky brand bits are pretty affordable, $2-$3 each at Home Depot.
What is the range , in Nm , needed for a bike? Can one tool give me all the possible torques I will ever need in my bike ?
Did you purchase these items yourself or were they given to you by the manufacturer to review?
I thought I saw somewhere that they updated the Silca to be easier to read
I watched your first vid on the Silca and I bought one. I like the adaptability of the pieces putting them into particular configurations to fit tight spots and the ability for my hand to have a good grasp and leverage. The value on the torque are small but I got over it because the use of it in my hands over-rides that issue. I took mine on a trip to Paris and the only adaptation I had to make was hand tightening the through axle since the Silca only goes as high as 8 Nm. My hands aren't that strong and over-torquing isn't an issue. Thanks for these reviews!
I am not so sure about the passed on assessment of where you are applying the Force along the moment arm/shaft since as the Force is changed proportionally to the radius/distance for which the force is applied. As the radius decreases, the force must go up, proportinally, in order to reach the set Torque value of the wrench. As the radius increases, the Force goes down proportionally in orcer to achieve the set Torque value set on the wrench. The is the whole point of having a torque wrench as you always get a consistent torque.
Does anyone know the length of the Topeak Torq Stick?
What torque value would you suggest for a seatpost? I've heard mixed things.
I once got a crack in a steel seat tube and I believe it was caused by improper torque. I crashed the bike while I had my Bags by Bird Goldback attached in "classic saddlebag mode" to my Brooks saddle. The bag had hit the ground and caused the post to rotate. I believe having the post bolted in too tight may have caused the crack in the seat tube.
I usually do them at 5NM.
@@PathLessPedaledTV Fantastic. Thanks. 👍
It varies by seat post clamp, bolt size, materials.. Zinn has a useful table in the back of his maintenance books. Built into frame M5=5-7NM and M6=7-9NM.
The Park Tool ATD-1.2 is the one to have.. Proven to be reliable, useful and accurate.. Unfortunately it is too expensive..
Going above the 6Nm range it's better to look at Tekton tools who in my mind offer quality tools..
If you want accurate reading continually and you want to prove what Newton meters you’re putting in is correct, you’ll have to send them off to be recalibrated because you couldn’t afford the equipment as an average bicycle person calibrate it. The accuracy needs to be 10 times the amount
I believe the Torque is determined by the Wrench Settings irrespect where you hold the Wrench!
No. Depends on the wrench.
Thanks Russ for noting the importance of zero-ing out most torque wrenches. Really important.
I'll add a couple notes from my home shop experience. The bits you have to buy for a Park tool torque wrench could be higher quality. I have found there fit in bolts to be loose most of the time. Yeah, it could be the bolt but after comparing another torque wrench and its bits, I'm inclined to thing it's Park.
Speaking of other torque wrenches, Shimano (yes Shimano) makes a pretty terrific torque wrench for that 2-14nm range. It looks like the Park ATD 1.2 but with much better bits.
Another option is Snap-On. This is an automotive tool brand that makes high quality stuff, including a torque wrenches with digital read outs. They have several to choose from but they are pricey. 1/4 inch wrench is $545. Yeah, crazy.
One other note is pinch bolts. Many of us are still on Shimano cranks with pinch bolts and the torque spec for those pinch bolts is in that 12-14nm range. That setting is higher than most small torque wrenches and low for bigger tools. So if you are on Shimano cranks, make sure you can cover that "gray" area.
Sometimes, a very specialised tool works better than a versatile tool, especially when you don't have to think about choices that are not relevant
Yeah weight, price, ease of use are my biggies. Thanks for posting, very timely.
I’m pretty sure you didn’t lose the 2 bits from the Topeak and they are stored within the bar tool itself! 😜
Ha. You're right.
I saw in a previous video you also have the Icetoolz Ocarina torque wrench. I love mine. Super simple to use. Has a good assortment of bits and is very ergonomic. The only con is that it's a little plasticy, but it does make it super lightweight. Price is hard to beat too.
Was going to include that but couldn't find it.
The Topeak ratchet rocket ntx+ goes up to 6nm. Not 8nm like said in the video.
more of a general, not torque related question, where would you need a chain breaking tool on a ride? Isn't your chain breaking a complete "catastrophe", meaning you require other forms of transportation?
Depending on the damage to your chain, you may be able to shorten it by a link and continue the ride (and not shifting into your largest gear or two). In order to remove the broken link, you would need to use the tool to take it out of the chain, and then you would also use the tool to reattach the two ends. Or if you are carrying a master link instead, you may still need to remove the broken link to clear the way for it.
No. You can get a loose link that breaks open and shorten the chain and still get most of your gears. You can get your derailleur torn off in mud and use the tool to shorten the chain and run the bike single speed. Both of these things I've had to do.
@@PathLessPedaledTV Fair play! thanks, that does make sense!
@@thinshadow thanks - that does make sense. I hope it's not gonna be a regular occurence on day-rides.
@@donttouchthisatall likely pretty rare. I've never had to do that particular field repair for myself (knock on wood).
I just crank it until my knuckles crack with a certain tone, kind of hard to explain.
I assume that in theory you should also zero all the other models, it’s just that they don’t tell you because they’re “lesser” tools…
I JUST asked Park in the last two weeks if I could send back my TW 5.2 to be re-calibrated since it had been left with a small value (7~Nm) on it resulting in a no longer accurate wrench, I was told that they are not repairable and that the issue was not covered under any warranty or support program. I am considering the Beam style but am disappointed in Park Tool for denying a repair request from a “normal person” while telling the influencer that their tools can be repaired for a “small fee.”
Thats a bummer. FWIF I’m not getting special treatment in repairs. I was just reading their policy about repairs that came in the sheet of paper with the wrench. I’d be as bummed as you if I had to call it in to be repaired and found out that it couldn’t.
Hey B e n j a m i n-I found your email from 11/26 regarding you having left your “TW-5.2 for an extended period of time with 15nm~of force on the mechanism” and wanted to reach out to clarify a couple things in general. Our calibration service is just that, a calibration adjustment. We are able to adjust (and make accurate) these wrenches within it’s designed adjustment parameters to accommodate for age and use. It’s also spelled out on our website that we offer limited repair services. In the case of the TW-5.2 repairs specifically, we can repair the ratcheting mechanism inside the head, and replace the adjusting knob but can’t repair anything associated with the torque portion of the tool, only adjust. I hope that helps. Sorry we were not able to help. I will reach out to you via the email ticket as well, I have a few more questions for you!
@@parktool thank you both for the immediate follow up, I have received and am very pleased with the path of options and information provided by Park via the internal ticket. Happy riding as always to all and my apologies for the rusty comment section dialogue. 😉
@@PathLessPedaledTV Thank you for the immediate response, I've addressed the Park Tool response and ticket below and over email. All is now well and happy riding^
Don't agree with the comment on holding the torque wrench - holding it anywhere behind the pivot point will result in the same torque being applied to the bolt.
The ratcheting Park "shop" style wrench is abysmal quality. I work in a bike shop and we warrantied one 4 times before just switching to a different brand (Union digital).
Read and carefully follow mfg's directions. Not youtube comments. You'll be good.
Imho, anyone with mechanical knowledge, sympathy, and experience, does not need a torque wrench working on bicycles.
The exception may be installing new BB's.
Certainly no need to take an on trip on bike torque wrench.
Regards,
Mechanic/machinist and 40+ years motorcycle mechanic.
Trust me when i say that the park tool torque wrench is one of the cheapest and most disappointing