Are "Bike Tools" really different from "Tools"?
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 5. 06. 2024
- Plenty of bike tools would be hard to live without, like a cassette tool. However, do you need bike specific hex wrenches? Screwdrivers? Hmmm, looks like we need to take a closer look!
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Spoke wrench doubles as a valve core tool. Learned this by accident and has been my go to ever since.
Cheers!
Youâre right! I never heard that one before
I think George has earned a sticker đ
I have removed tons of valve cores by accident with the adapter of my air pump. So that'll be my go-to tool
Yeah, specially those spoke tools that have many sizes built in.
@@Knitterfest Typically followed by a "F**K SAKE!" as with using most good tools.
Biggest tip I heard is buy the cheaper version of every tool first and when it breaks, then buy the expensive one. That way you only spend the big money on tools you use a lot. Poorly worded but you get the idea.
Makes sense
genius mate
I tend to do this, and so I own some cheap tools that I only use once per year-perfect, because theyâre light use. The ones that arenât up to the task end up getting replaced real quick.
good advise yeah! this only applys for stuff coming after your basic setup tho.. like for some good pliers, a set of hex keys, torque wrench, floor pump and stuff like that you're guaranteed to use ALWAYS. but for smaller stuff like chain breakers, bearing tools, spoke tools and so on I totally see your point :)
I do this too, but downside is breaking a tool mid repair when youâre already stressed and annoyed that your repair is 10x more complicated than the guy explaining the process on CZcams lol
Some of the tools are definite game changers like the bottom bracket tool or crank arm puller. I am 56 years old and still have specialty bike tools I bought in my teens.
Yep. Agreed. Iâm still using bike specific tools I bought in the 1980âs.
What I really appreciate about you Seth is you're constantly thinking about what works best for all the rest of us normal people. You're not out to sell a product to us or act snobby with all the nicer tools that are specific to mtb. You single handedly got myself and my wife into mountain biking a month ago I really appreciate you dude đ.
Iâve worked at a bike shop for years and seen a lot of customers get by with the simple tools that they have in their garage. The problem is with the non bike specific tools is they end up doing more damage to the bike. Which can be more expensive to fix overtime. Bike parts and components are all made to very fine measurements. Bike specific tools are made to fit those measurements. Just buy the good bike specific tools that you use a lot. The stuff like hex wrenches and screwdrivers are fine to buy at your local hardware store. As long as they are name brand they donât seem to cause issues. Hope someone found this helpful.
There is no substitute for a cable housing cutter. I've tried. The design of the cutting jaws is critical. It doesn't need to be a _bicycle_ cable housing cutter, but it does need to be a cable housing cutter. Having said that, the cleanest possible cut will actually come from a Dremel because it won't crush the housing, but you will need to flush the housing with spray cleaner to get the metal dust out.
Regarding wrenches, every tool kit should include Knipex pliers-wrenches. They are astoundingly useful in any situation where they physically fit, much better than normal adjustable wrenches.
You never know when you need to pull out the jackhammer on the olâ frame
lol
lol
For the head set cups I used a 1"Ă4" piece of wood and a big c clamp ,and it works great. You can get the c clamps at harbor freight
I thnk it is either lifeline or Xtool (i'm not going to my toolbox to look for it) that make a $20 cup remover and inserter. It, ideally, requires a bike stand to get the bottom one in but it works a treat.
Thanks good to know
@@M3PH11 thanks good to know
I have an old scrap block of oak with a hole in it as a "washer". So far it's worked well for the three times I needed to press in a headset.
@@newttella1043 Same. I still have the washers for the nuts to push against, but scraps of wood are soft so they don't damage headset cups and definitely can be big enough to get past the too-small-washer problem. I've used this DIY tool plenty of times.
I also have some PVC scraps that I use to set crown races so it's DIY all around for headsets for me.
Before I bought a set of master link pliers, I did find using the right set of circlip pliers worked really well for breaking the masterlink apart.
That shoelace masterlink trick is neat! I've always managed to get them apart with various pliers and not too much time, but this seems easier.
I used to just use tie wire or old cables and twist them with pliers
Seths wife: "why do you keep buying tools?"
Seth: "these tools do things kinda the same, but kinda different, here's why"
Waiting for the day he says âkinda the same, but kinda different.â
'So I make money, so you can keep buying shoes and handbags', would probably the politically wrong answer, I guess.
Agreed! I have a lots of automotive tools and when I started working on my own bikes I could scrape by using some automotive type tools on my bikes but at the end it does make your life much easier to use bike specific tools for bottom bracket, cutting cable housings, headset remover / press and cassette tools (chain whip etc) oh and also torque socket set đ
You can always add chunks of 2x4 or other scrap wood under the washers on the faux bearing press. I've also successfully used wood scraps and a clamp to press in cups and bearings.
Yep! Iâve definitely used the âole bmx bb press back in the early 2000âs before they started using threaded.
Hammer did all my BMX bearings đ The old US BB and the Mids could take it.
@@jeffstreck I've definitely cracked brand new headset cups with a hammer. Bottom brackets were never an issue though. I still find the clamps easier though. I just installed a mid bb on my new BMX last week that way. It's even faster than the actual bearing press because you can quick cinch it down and then tighten from there. Less effort and violence than a hammer too.
@@sepherus Hammer is absolutely not a good method. Clamps sounds much better.
Plywood is better because natural wood can have variations in softness, which could lead to one side of cup imprinting deeper in wood, which can make misalignment.
The smallest size Knipex pliers wrench is not only enormously useful for all kinds of things, it is also a better cable crimper than the one in the park needle-nose pliers.
I used your shoelace hack years ago when you first put it on video, and it worked like a charm. I still keep a shoelace in my pack to this day
I use my hands.
I started packing a shoelace with me on rides after reading "Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance". I may have only used it once in 25 years.
I have since added zip ties to my long-ride bag. I have definitely used those!
I use a piece of steel cable from shifter to RD in same fashion
I just went to my local hardware store, got a 1 foot chunk of 1/2" all-thread and they had thick nylon washers to fit inside the headset cups, plus some steel washers & nuts, got a perfect headset press for less than $10. The bike tool versions will keep the headset cups straight, this can be tricky with the hardware store version. For master link pliers, I bent the tips of some junk needle nose pliers into hooks the size of chain rollers & ground them narrow enough to fit the links, a quick squeeze and master link open.
The wire cutters from the store are probably for copper wires and that is softer than the steel inlay of the cable housing. So the damage wont happen if you buy steel cable cutters
Nah, he just got bought tools that's not good for much of anything. Good quality cable cutters will be just as good
"Bike wrenches" are important with cup and cone hubs, they need to be super thin.
On the master link, if you bend the chain to isolate that link you can open it with pliers or channel locks. it's well worth just buying the tool though, and keeping it in your riding pack.
Things like BB tools and cassette tools and chain whips are mandatory if you intend to upgrade and maintain your bike often.
Park cable cutters are great. They are hardened, and don't crush and unravel cables and housings. They are very expensive though. For the once in a few years most people need to cut cables and housings though, probably not worth the money.
The rest is either for "convenience" or expensive highly specialised items for once in 5 year jobs, like derailleur hanger aligners and headset cup removal tools.
Plus 1 for master link removal by isolating the link. Its even possible to use the chain either side to push it together and break the master link by hand...though its tough on newer links!
For home cable housing cutting, I use a Dremel cut-off wheel. It provides an actual square end. It's actually better than the Park nippers, though not as fast. (Still need to ream out the lining though.)
@@markfisher7962 put a piece of old brake cable into the housing before cutting. The housing won't crush and will be nice and straight.
Great video as usual. As I learn more on how to maintain and service my bikes, I've purchased the tools as I need them. However I still use a bunch of non-bike specific tools. The ones I use the most: Klien tool - good for crimping, linesman pliers- really clean cut on cable and non-brake housing (brake housing get the dedicated tool and barb driver), jewelers pliers - a mini version of needle nose pliers - good for picking up tiny delicate springs and ball bearings.
I tried to use an adjustable wrench to take out my valve core a while back and it seemed to damage the threads on the core, not letting valve caps to stay on anymore. Love the videos and keep up the great work!
@12:10 My homemade cup press used some 1x6 boards cut into squares with a hole in the middle for the cup sides and then a stack of 2 or 3 washers on the nut side. worked "ok". for the number of times i've needed it (once) it was worth the money.
And the soft wood will not scratch anything. Great idea actually
My shop was built around working on cars, and I have lots of shop tools I can reuse, not to mention a compressor with way too much volume.
However, I have learned to hate adjustable wrenches with a passion. They just damage whatever they touch.
After 3 years working on bikes, I have bought enough of the blue stuff to be able to do pretty much everything.
As much as I hate those adjustable wrenches with screw adjustment just like you, I love the ones that work like pliers. Never damaged a nut with those, cause they fit so nice and tightly around it.
Knipex pliers wrench is the bomb
I really dig when you explain the whys and hows of each bike tool in depth. I hope you do more how to videos.
I still have bike tools I purchased in the early 80's. They were part of a touring repair kit that was a zipper pouch w/ elastic bands to hold everything in place. Once I had that little tool kit, it was literally all I used when working on my bikes.
My dad was a machinist and mechanic since 1958, and the one thing he always taught me, NEVER use an adjustable wrench on anything, unless you have no other tool to be able to use.
Iâm a mechanic as well and the only thing I use a plumbers adjustable wrench on is to break tie rod lock nuts loose.
Allways make sure you use a metric adjustable spanner for metric nuts and vice versa for imperial.
thats probably because he knows you and assumed you weren't mechanically inclined enough to tighten the wrench every time you put it on a nut. if used properly its actually a tighter fit than standard wrenches and will clamp onto the nut
being a mechanic, and a tool junkie, i love these tool videos.
I appreciate so much that Seth is asking the right questions! A lot of content out there is geared towards enthusiasts and people with deep pockets. Seth clearly has access to great tools, great sponsor deals, and top shelf equipment, but he's evaluating the Walmart bike; he's providing the rest of us with strategies for doing the most with the minimal resources we have; and he acknowledges diminishing returns & planned obsolescence.
Great timing on this video. I am looking at purchasing some tools for both my wife's and my bikes...good to see you using each so as to determine actual need (the want vs need rule).
The other side of the valve core wrench was for Schrader valves. Those things are a monster to get out without the right tool.
I think I could literally watch Seth do almost anything đ€Ł love it ,great video!!!đ€©
yeah, like his omelette pan video :D
To overcome the "washer too small" for the bearing or headset press, I have found that some PVC bushings work great since they can be found in many sizes and they are softer than the metal parts so they will not damage the headset cups.
Iâm refurbishing a old bike that my parents used to ride and this is the exact video I needed! Impeccable timing
For the bearing press, try the auto shop for fender washers. Often times fender washers will be large o/d and work great!
I can already tell this is gonna be real good! Keep it up Seth :)
An angle grinder and stash of scrap metal will also suffice every so often. I've used a spoke spanner made from some bent 3mm thick strap with an appropriately sized slot in it and have recently made and used a cone spanner made from an old lawnmower blade and disk brake straightener made from an offcut with a slot in it. Having access to a lathe to make things like bearing presses that hold bearings square while they are being pressed in or other specialty tools is also a bonus :).
Loved the video and I have done a lot of these in the past. I still would love to see a flip bike where you try to use only standard tools and no parts bin. Would be great for people who are just starting out.
The one marginally bike screw driver you may want is a JIS for derailleur limit adjustments. It looks like a phillips #1 (which usually works good enough), but the geometry is such that it doesnt cam out of the derailleur screws.
I am self taught using whatever I had to hand, sometimes making my own tools. The best example, off the top of my dome is my home made caliper spreader for changing my car's brake pads. I used 10mm BMX axle, some washers, nuts and a couple of spanners/wrenches. Worked a treat.
Also, I wouldn't give up so quickly on making my own bearing cup tool. Drilled blocks of wood in place of those washers on the threaded rod would work a treat and you can choose how large or small they are.
The shoe lace hack got me out of a pickle on one of my rides a couple months ago! I watched your videos about it when it came out a couple years ago and glad I remembered it!
Pro tip you can also use a spoke wrench for valve core removal
For the press, I think you could just cut some small plywood discs to increase the diameter of the washer.
I'd just use a block of wood and a hammer to press the headset cups.
This was a better ad for Park Tools than any other video I've seen. Obviously you want the right tool for the job and there's just no getting around the fact that your common household tools are not bike-friendly
Many valve caps have a core removal cut out in them. that way you always have one handy. that's my go to. Great video as always Seth!
As a headset press Iâve used a mallet to get it started then a threaded rod with washers but two short pieces of 2x4 with a hole in the middle to go against the headset cups.
Yep. I do the same thing.
As someone whoâs worked on bikes in my dadâs garage my whole life, I can confirm you can jerry up something that will work for a one time repair. On the contrary, now that Iâm a mechanic in a shop, repeatedly doing repairs I am sooo happy to be exposed to the right tools all of the time, even for things like pinching cable end caps. Basically, what amount of profesh do you want in your bike repairs is the question to ask yourself
The cable housing cutter was the tipping point for me starting to buy dedicated tools for bike maintenance. Hardware store cutters just weren't strong enough (or they left the cables mangled). I bought a cheap toolset from bike nashbar in the 90s (mail order!, pre-internet). I still use most of those tools today, so yes, they will last a long time. Of course, some tools are obsolete now, but the cassette tool and tapered crankshaft puller still work great.
Great video and excellent production values as always. The way I undo a master link with needle nose pliers is to set them diagonally. I put one tip on the rounded side of "face A" of the link, on the outside of the chain (like in the video), and the other tip on the opposing rounded side, but on "face B", on the _inside_ of the chain. Squeeze the pliers and it'll come right off, no specialized tool or string/cable required.
Channel lock pliers also do this. And much more efficiently.
I take my masterlink apart by gripping the chain, thumbs on each side of the link and bending the chain forward and back. Pops out with little force. I would also use a chaingrip on the external portion of a threaded bottom bracket. A socket is still best.
Seth, for Brake housing you should definitely use angle cutters. You only want the shear effect for the straight wire embedded shift housing
Yeah, on the straight wire housing itâs the only way to go, but donât you find that it leaves a cleaner cut on solid housing? On certain housing I find that side cutters or diagonal cutters crush the center (unless you leave a cable in it). The housing pictured in the video was Sram, and that seems to work just fine with any cutter.
@@BermPeakExpress Yeah makes sense, at the shop I work at the mechanics always taught me to use the diagonal cutters for brake housing then go back with a park tool pick and open back up the channel for the barb. Appreciated the video man!
before we got our masterlink plyers, we put two flathead screw drivers where you would put the plyers, then we would get some vice plyers and squeez them till they pop apart.
Hey Seth! I love your videos so much, Iâve been down lately but when watching these videos it makes me so happy thanks for making these videos!
Seth, you rock. It`s so enjoyable watching your videos. Thank you.
Seth has grown so much, helping me win my races and work on my own bike without a shop
Thanks đ
Tips on how to win races pls:)
He doesn't race so what are you talking about?
For adjustables, I really love the channel lock wideazz slim. I use it as a cone in a pinch and it works 90% of the time.
Cheaper than my knipex even though the knipex is much nicer to use
That shoe lace hack for the master link is the best tip since changing from a bike hack channel, thanks!
On spoke wrenches: Park Tool also has the version that has more contact points. Not as quick to slide on and off, but the fit is really tight and the chance of damage is minimal.
Also known as the Slotted or Diamond style, they're pretty good for running up particularly soft nipples like Aluminum, without deforming them.
Back in the nineties I made a derailleur hanger straightening/alignment tool out of common hardware store supplies đ
I have used a scrap front wheel with a threaded axle for this once (the thread fit the derailleur mount) with a zip tie in one spot :)
Great video that many do it yourself bike mechanics can relate to. I always ride with a hydration pack when I am on the Mountain Bike. I am the official tool guy on group rides and when I ride solo no one is going to come get me if I am miles into the woods. Always carry light weight bike tools for chain and valve core. Some small extra parts and always have zip ties, electrical tape, a few strips of Gorilla tape just in case. My best on trail repair was making a splint out of sticks, zip ties and gorilla tape to hold a cracked rear triangle together so a guy in our group could ride 6 miles back to his car.
when I built my own headset tool, I found some large square plates that had a hole in the center. They are large enough to sit on top of the press cups and not inside the bearing race. I also like using the threaded rod to install the star fangled nut in a Threadless steerer as an alternative to the hammer+hole punch method
There are Japanese industry screwdrivers that work so much better on drivetrain screws than the drivers you get at hardware stores. The steel quality is pretty nice on most of theses, too.
That's because Shimano doesn't actually use Phillips screws. They use jis (Japanese industrial standard) screws.
â@@AndrewFrink I disassembled a brother CNC machine (japanese) and learned that. ha. There are probably a hundred "phillips" screw driver tips. I have at least 20, and never seem to have the right one.
Love JIS screwdrivers.
Unbelievable, I'm going on 20 years now as an industrial mechanic and never knew this. I always thought that some Phillip's screws were just manufactured wrong because of how easily they could strip out since the screwdriver would not fully engage the screw. I just did some research and found that JIS screws have a dimple or cross in the head to denote this. Looks like I will be buying some of these screwdrivers. Thank you!
JIS, Pz and Phillips might look the same but they're not. Very, very few people know the difference and just mangle everything with Phillips drivers.
Yo Seth! My buddies and I have our own small version of Berm Peak in Ohio near Rays Indoor MTB Park. We havenât filmed much but I do photo/video and Iâd love to see a video on some tips for your video making process! Also if you ever get up north, weâd love to give ya the tour of Rays and âThistle Hillâ. We also have a Kenda office nearby!
Always bringing the knowledge! Thanks, man!
I love your honesty when youâre reviewing
You can open the kmc links by Hand perfectly fine, just push them together from the sides, not like you do with a shoelace or pliers but from the actual sides, then push the links like you would to Release.
I still have a Tool for that, but im not able to open them without pushing the link together while using the pliers, well, maybe it would work, but its scary high resistance and pushing them together just makes it use like no force at All.
that "phillips head screwdriver" held up at the beginning is actually a JIS screwdriver for shimano derailleur limit screws. it's a slightly different profile to phillips - you can make a phillips driver work but a proper JIS screwdriver works better. and that Park Tool one is by far the easiest to find in north america.
Yeah of all the tools he picked the wrong one haha. He could have picked the park tool mallet, or crescent wrench
I have some Moody precision JIS screwdrivers that I use for shifter pods after stripping a few screws with Phillips drivers. And a few Craftsman rebranded VESSEL BALL GRIP Screwdrivers for the larger JIS cross and Flatheads screwdrivers.
With enough determination you can do a lot of things with a pair of needle nose pliers. Been using that as a valve for remover and spoke wrench and a normal wrench(except for big bolts)
the 5" and 6" pliers wrench is very very handy for working on old mtbs. as well as a little ratcheting bit driver.
Those cable cutters you bought from the store are meant to cut wires really, not so much for steel cables and the like. I've never had any luck trying to cut through anything that is made of steel.
A wise man told me when I was very young," Buy Quality tools and they will last forever. I'm 63 and still have tools I bought when in my 20s.
The comment I was looking for. Thanks
*but only if you know you are going to use them a lot. A lot of people tend to collect shiny tools more than they use them.
Many of my hand tools were my great-grandfathersâŠtheyâre pushing 100 years old now!
I still have a Stanley 99e I bought when an apprentice in 1997
Yup, I inherited some of my father's and grandfather's tools. One thing is certain, they rarely make them like they used to.
Dont ever buy cheap Asian made tools.
This is the kind of information we want!
Also, master links for basic bikes, like 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 speed master links, are super easy to pull apart by hand. If you want to do your nice 10, 11, or 12 speed chain, you need the tool. Found that out the hard way my first time I bought a full sus.
The cup press is really easy to made for someone that can work with metal.. I would done one in 2 hours.. The rod you can shorten, bigger washers are easy to find or you can make one from pieace of steel with basic tools... If one cost 50 bucks for example and u can make one out of material for about 10 bucks.. U still save 40
In Europe you get big washers for statically purpose on construction sites (DIN EN 1052), they have 58 mm outside diameter for M12 bolts
@@simonm1447 Im from Europe and I know that so I was put off by him saying you can't get them.. but can still make washers from a place of steal.. I dont have many tools at garage but I can still make those with little efford..
I know for a fact Seth is using that electric pump to pump his shocks from now onđ That was just too easy compared to using that hand pump.
Just aim 1psi under and it seems to be perfect
I run over 250psi in the rear shock. That would be nice to be able to use the electric.
@@robertmisiuk7137 Iâm a road bike guy so donât know much abt suspension. But isnât 250 a lot for the rear??
@@dannygallagher9290 It depends on the shock. Mine is an old Fox Float.
@@robertmisiuk7137 interesting. The more you know i guess lol. Do those style of shocks have issues with blowing out seals? Still seems crazy to me for such pressure lol
Whoa! This was a great content piece, I needed this. Thanks, guud stuff!
Nylon washers work well on the threaded rod approach to a headset press. Careful clouting with a rubber mallet also works in a pinch.
As someone who has gone mechanic to bike tech to mechanic I agree with this 100% sadly I was at a big box store but I built my bikes with as much care as I would rebuild anyone's engine. But I still held the fastest time assembling in the store because I used the correct tools.
Everyone would be trying weird tools not built for the job but I would lay out my Park set before hand so I would have everything.
Imo the necessary tools that you would need are most definitely the ones he described in the end. And that headset tool is a lifesaver. I would also recommend a trueing wheel but I wouldn't go crazy on a super nice one. But only if you keep up that kind of work
Ps. assembly time was 13mins Inc paperwork and tuning, appropriate loctite where needed. Time started when the knife hit the box
I submitted a suggestion to Harbor Freight for them to start offering Park Tool alternatives like they do with Snap-on/Mac for automotive tools. Look at the Park Tool tire inflator chuck for example, $140 for a tire inflator just because bikes use a different valve stem than literally every other inflatable tire on the planet. A good tire inflator chuck should be about $40 - but bike tool prices say it's $100 more? Yeah, you can smell the greed from here.
$1 presta to schrader adapter.
That's 'bike tool tax' in action. Park are possibly the worst offenders.
Their 'specialist ' 32mm flat wrench for old BBs I priced at over ÂŁ20, when an identical item for (iirc) a Land Rover engine fan was under a tenner.
@@alpd7638 I also use these presta schrader adapters, they are cheap but work fine. You can even inflate bike tires with these adapters at fuel stations
I started turning wrenches on bikes more than 25 years ago. I still have some of the tools I bought back then. They really do last a lifetime.
Im just getting back into bikes after 20 years.... very cool too see how different things are
Whatâs the name of that electric pump?
You can also get an old pair of Scissors and grind them to the right shape, for masterlink Pliers
If you have a rear derailleur, you can use pliers open the master links/quick links. Also you can use them to crimp the wire crimps. Been doing it for years, I have Jagwire cable cutters with this feature eincluded but it means lack of room, the old hazet pliers work great. They are long, and easy to handle, hold and get to a the wire no matter the rear derailleur you use.
Master links CAN be removed by hand usually. Also using pliers and the edge of neighbouring outer plates rather than trying to squeeze needle noses into the gap.
Park adjustable goes up to 40mm, useful for some threaded headsets. Other adjustables often max out at 30 - 35mm.
A Nice pair of channel lock brand cutters works better than most bike specific tools in that price range. I use them all the for shortening my cables.
The screwdriver he showed is actually a special one, it's JIS standard.
Perfect for those derailleur limit screws
@@pjaxy perfect for when you need to really apply a lot of torque to a JIS screw and not have it strip out.
As always love the videos! For the BB removal bit, as far as hardware store parts go, a pipe wrench and some pvc showerpan liner you can get it off with some easy (a pipe wrench kind of self tightens when turned the proper direction) and the thick liner will prevent scratches like the rag idea. đ
This is really a bad suggestion, pipe wrenches despite the shower pan, can slip, gouge and bugger up the faced surfaces of a BB shell. A hook spanner and a inexpensive flat plate fixed cup spanner works great You can use a properly sized, adjustable/Crescent wrench if you have the ability to hold the wrench on the fixed cup with a stack of washers to the BB spindle.
Great info and demonstrations as always !
Letâs just appreciate the work Seth puts in to entertain us
Iâm one to use cheaper alternative tools when possible, but after wasting money on a few cheap pairs of cable cutters, I bit the bullet and bought the Pedroâs cable and housing cutters. Itâs really worth it
I absolutely agree. "Regular" cutters flatten the cable and make a huge mess. Cable cutters are well worth the saved frustration.
I just bought hardware store cutters for stainless balustrade cable.
Generic cable cutters work well... for maybe several cuts. After that they don't cut properly anymore. Bought a nice set of parrot cutters and it gives me joy every time I cut some housing.
this was a really good video especially for me since I'm getting more into bike maintenance and bought some parts to replace the stock stuff. nothing major, just upgrading chainring, pedals and chain etc. but regarding the master links, sometimes you can pull them apart with your hands depending on the chains/master links. I can pull apart the master links on the chain i have on my budget chain got from ebay to replace my snapped stock chain but i can't do this with the masterlinks on my kmc chain. both work completely fine but i use the budget chain for commuting to and from work.
Ive used a pair of Allen wrenches to take chain off a few times and it works pretty well. Put them through each side and pull them together
Should do more rc crawler stuff! Loved that on this channel
I 3d printed a sram dub bsa threaded Bb tool, worked perfectly and allowed me to torque it up to the required spec, one of the few things I didnât buy bike specific. The file was on âthingiverseâ
For a bike mechanic probably not the best but for me? I only need to use the tool once. Maybe twice in my life. I don't need to spend $40 on a bb tool.
Gotta say to put a headset/bb press together is rather easy. There are tons of youtube tutorials and you can find the parts you need online if you can't find them in your local stores. You can also get very inexpensive ones on amazon etc. However if you use it frequently it's nice to invest in a proper one but I'd say 80% of ppl use it one or twice a year max.
I tried DIY headset press for my recent bike build. I could not get the cups to go in evenly with it, I decided that this wasn't the place to cheap out on my new carbon frame and ponied up the $'s for a press. For a single tool it was a considerable amount of money, but it worked well and damage to the frame.
great video as always! For brake housing i just use hardened pliers. For Pedals just a normal wrench, for shortening a chain i just bang a flathead into the wider part of the chain with a hammer and it comes apart rather easy. Will get a chaintool tho because it's not as loud, For opening a master link i use needle nose pliers.
Seth: You need a proper headset press.
*Ali Clarkson has entered the chat.
lame
Not gonna lie, I crimp with side cutters
If you are going to get master-link pliers, the Shimano ones are preferable to the Park Tool ones. The Shimano pliers have three prongs. The middle prong together with one end prong is used to remove the link; the middle prong and the other end prong is used to install the link. In both cases, the handles are squeezed together, which is less awkward and allows more force to be applied than pulling the handles apart.
If you look at the BMX side of bikes a lot of pedals are impossible to remove with a standard wrench. The contact surface is only about 2mm thick so standard wrenches won't fit. If you don't believe me look at Primo Turbo pedals. We also use Allen keys for pedals but those tend to strip easily
First
This is first
Did I ask