TerranScapes - Sculpting Putties Review pt. 2 - Milliput, GreenStuff, Procreate
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2024
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Here I revist Milliput, GreenStuff and Procreate sculpting putties to look at mixes, cure times, carving and sanding, as well as using them for pressmolds. You can see part 1 of this review here:
• TerranScapes - Sculpti... - Hry
It never fails to amaze me,how you manage to share knowledge i didn't realize I wanted to know....
I very much appreciate your self-deprecating/frustrated perfectionist approach.It always like catching up with an old friend when i take the time to see what you've been up to! Cheers Mike,onward and upward....
I'm glad you found it helpful. I didn't know I wanted to know it either. ;) Glad I looked into it.
Tom Payne see AltonBrown mention ,above.;)
The angle is fine :-)
Cracking review as always, interesting properties on the 50/50 mix, worth knowing for the future. Finally, I can't believe you've never used instamold before mate :-D
I know... Oyumaru.... Where have I been?
I roll each Milliput component into strings, then line up and twist into a plait, and then fold back on itself, which makes mixing super quick, and easier on the fingers.
Great review, Mike. I never used the stuff, but you can never have too much reference material. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure.
Lots of useful information, thanks for sharing the results.
My pleasure.
Wow, I have a lot of different putties and this has the answers to so many of my questions. Thanks, this was great. I'm also a big fan of mixing Green Stuff with Milliput. +1 for Oyumaru, I love that stuff!! :)
I recently did a batch of dungeon scenery as the player side of a DM screen, surfaced with Magic-Sculpt, bought at TAP Plastics which is a nice epoxy putty for big projects, since it comes in big tubs instead of small ribbons or cylinders. The price was about $50 for 2.5 lb. each of A and B. I used about half for the project. Smells, looks, and sets a lot like Milliput. I haven't tried figure sculpting with it yet. Will probably try the mix with green stuff.
Oh wow, another material. There seems to be no end to ones people point out to me. Thanks. :) It looks a little like some new materials Smooth-On just came out with. And similar to Apoxie Sculpt.
I just dropped by Tap Plastics for a look and remembered they sell all sorts of stuff. Thanks for reminding me. :)
I just bought some Blue Stuff which behaves similar to Oyumoru. It was easier to come by and is a bit cheaper.
lol I love gs and pro create.
I also like mixing them
I work with sculpting miliput yellow green (standard) alot, to extend its working time i mix 1/3 of each part of milliput, then use another 1/3 of cheap childrens plastercine. (The cheaper the better it seems to work) once mixed it can give you another 45mins to an hour working time. it will take much longer to cure fully, but for press molding or keeping detail without deforming, iv not found anything better for small scale modeling.
For press molding leave it in the mold till cured for best result
Pro tip to make it easy to remove dip a dry brush in some talcom powder and dust the mold before adding any putty and it will come out easy peasy
This is really helpful! thx for the review!
small question: did you ever get your hands on the "superfine white" milliput? because it seems quite different from the "standard". Im asking because im only using Green Stuff and the Super White Milliput.
No, I haven't tried Super White before. If my memory serves, it's a finer grained and harder version. If you are wondering about mixing them, no harm in trying. I suspect it will be a solid combo.
I recently purchased some Blue stuff *Oruymaru, and it's amazing....so i'm late to the game too :)
Thanks, Mike!
Mark CMG Clover :)
Hey Mike, Great info & review, just worth noting using Insta Mold / Oyumaru & press molds with those materials.. I found for higher detail objects talons, fine points etc.. Its worth noting the how pliable your putty will be too.. EG. You will most likely split your Insta Mold if you apply the amount of force needed for a 50/50 green stuff mix, whereas the more pliable nature of a 65/35 yellow mix would be better (but it takes a long time to cure), Militput will go into smaller high details & can be slightly watered to make it more pliable to get into those tiny gaps. (but as you discovered it cures a little less harder than greenstuff).. Also making large insta molds can be a little annoying as you have to work very quickly as the larger the area the faster the heat dissipation (PS super heating it is also not as good an idea as it would sound..Kinda like liquid plastic..& it burns :) Also for smaller molds of insta mold use your little container to push it into so you can fill it up to make it solid then when you fill your mold it doesn't distort (like how you would brace a brush on rubber mold).. The greenstuff blister or other brand packet is actually pretty good to use.
Nice info. Thanks. Using softer putties for details makes sense. I'll keep that in mind.
you can use a hard pencil eracer to clean your sander , sandpaper , sanding belt ,they all so sell hard rubber to specially clean them a hard rubber tennis shoe will work
I have a sander eraser hiding around here somewhere. I like the tennis shoe idea better. :)
Oyumaru/Magic Mold is fantastic, but I wouldn't recommend using liquid plastic or resin in it. The endothermic reaction gets too hot and will warp the mold; I know, I've tried it with both smooth-on 300 and 320 and even with the longer curing time of the 320, it didn't stay solid long enough to capture much detail. 300 is right out, it cures super fast and pretty hot and you'll probably just get a nasty mess. You might (MIGHT) be able to do it with a resin that takes hours to cure, but at that point I'd probably just make a silicon mold and use a quicker-setting resin for the amount of time it would take.
However, Merlin's Magic or other hard-setting plaster DOES work with oyumaru with no major issue, so if you need something tough for terrain then that's a good option. Just treat it like you would a Hirst Arts mold.
That is really helpful information. Knowing the limits due to the heat even for the longer cure time resins saves me some frustration. :) I was wondering how small a piece you were trying to cast? Could you squeeze out some thin railings in resin for instance?
***** The smallest thing I ever tried casting using the above methods was a large bullet shell from the 40k Basilisk kit. I kinda got a halfway decent cast from it? But it still warped the oyumaru in the end and lost some detail. Not a huge problem for something so simple, and you can just reuse the oyumaru of course, but it's not ideal.
As for railings: I'd probably just use some stiff wire or paperclips or plastic rods, if it's supposed to be thin. Unless what you're making a copy of has some details to it that would make wire unfeasible as a replacement. Something that thin is a bit beyond me unfortunately, so I can't really offer much advice there.
phalanx1234
No worries. The bullet story is helpful. I was thinking of some decorative railings. If I took time to make something fancy out of wire, it would be great to cast it. I suppose it would be quite fragile though... probably not a good idea just for that reason along. ;)
What about milliput/playdoh? i use that for bulking. That and milliput/terracotta. it works well for larger things too. The good thing about the milliput is ( now i don't know exact measurements) but it doesn't seem to loose its compressive strength even with really small amounts (20/80 ish maybe could be less) so it's really good for the core of a model.
i'd like to see a video showing how little milliput you could get away with.
(one thing to remember is to mix the milliput parts together first then add the bulk: one part of the milliput doesn't play well on its own - the grey part)
Whoah. Mixing with Playdoh. Creative. The nice thing about milliput, or any epoxy putty really is that once mixed, it will cure at the molecular level so adding in other materials won't inhibit the cure -- probably a few exceptions but good for a general rule. Nice tip.
***** Thanks. Are you gonna do a video on it :P
I'm a little confused watching this because my Procreate hardens quite rubbery and is super easy to carve. I'm not sure if its a different batch or something to do with the ratio I'm mixing it at (approx. 50/50).
+belverkungol Hmm... I'm not really sure. I can only really go with my tests for this video. I haven't really used Procreate for any actual work. I"m likely to use some for my current projects so perhaps I will observe something different. In the end though, if you like using it then it's the right product even if it doesn't match my observations. :)
Really nice review there, it was me that surgested the 50/50 mix of milliput and greenstuff, and i think i used the words its a whole new beast and after your tests you will have seen your self what i meant by that, i have been using the said press molds as you, i just can not spell it lol. omimu maybe lol.
i have had great success with press molds in 2 part molds as well. plus the fact i can reuse the molds over and over.
i have done under cuts and it still comes out great,
That will be the one :)
*****
Thanks ;) that makes searching ebay sooo much easier
i will have to invest in a Chinese dictionary lol the other you can also search e bay for insta mold its the same stuff :D
I think it is Japanese actually. ;) (Not sure though.)
Thanks for the suggestion for the blending. Very good for me to know.
Did you happen to do a break/bend test with the mixes?
No... I don't think so. I should have. I do know that the milliput has a much lower breaking strength. And GreenStuff has a lot of flexibility -- depending on the shape and thickness.
I have found that most things will have an optimum grit that can be associated with it
Oh, interesting point. Worth playing with if sanding is needed. Thanks.
is there a pliability i the other materials....i use milliput right now and its pretty great for figure body work. but its not great on small items they seem to break easy your grean stuff looked a bit more flexible....is this the case?
in*
Yes, green stuff is the most flexible putty I've used. But for weapons, a lot of people like a harder putty to get sharp edges. Procreate would be a good choice by I think there are other versions of the 'green' stuff - brown, grey maybe, that offer different hardness levels. Milliput is too brittle though as you've seen.
@@Terranscapes thanks...trying green stuff for small sticky out bits that need a bit of flex. just gonna order them all will use them all anyhoo. loved the review though.
welll will look in to some thanks :::))
:)
Between milliput and procreate what would you recommend?
I like to have both on hand really. Milliput is cheaper and is an excellent filler material. Procreate is more expensive and is better suited to sculpting. If you can only have one material, then I would say Procreate since it can fill almost any role for epoxy putties.
Milliput gets so stiff although. (The storage thing standards possibly - I'd probably stick them into an airtight bag or plastic box.)
This guy reminds me SO muck of Alton Brown on the cooking channel. Very similar voice, cadence and personality :)
I'm watching a dude file putty, where did my life go so wrong? He doesn't even use proper scientific method when testing casting.
Thanks for linking me in your video the other week, I've been AFK myself while trying to figure out a decent camera set up and work on other projects. I'm working on a video about masking fluid battle damage, not sure how well it will go but for a 3rd of it recorded and if it goes poorly, that's a video worth putting out there as well.
No problem on the mention. :) I'm interested in seeing the masking fluid video when it's ready.
I can't understand the name of this product. Your accent is very difficult. Are you saying "Way-ver-roo" ? This is what it sounds like. Perhaps in future show the front of the pack. Thank you.