TerranScapes - Sculpting Putties Review - Milliput, GreenStuff, Procreate
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- čas přidán 13. 11. 2014
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I review a few sculpting putties - Green Stuff, Milliput, Procreate and a wood putty. I try to explore how they behave in a variety of ways and share their pricing. - Hry
Nice product overview, thanks for the heads up on the procreate :-)
No problem. Stay tuned though. Based on some comments, I might be doing a part 2. :)
The only video of its kind in 2021. I know you no longer make videos, but a lot of hobbyists like myself thank you.
THANK YOU! What a quality and comprehensive review. I’m going with Milliput and Procreate for what I was looking for.
Thanks Mike for the review on the sculpting materials. I will definitely refer to it when I pursue a sculpture project in the future.
Happy to help when I can.
Thanks Mike, you always got my back! Very informative
:)
I’m only on minute 1 of this video and INSTANT subscription. This is what I was searching for-actually better than I was searching for since I only expected to find text and some images (and I did), but seeing them all side by side in a video is definitely best-I look forward to video 2.
I'm really glad you liked it.
Great review, informative as always.
Thanks for the review. I own Milliput and Procreate but have only used Apoxie Sculpt so far. Based on your review it seems like Aves Apoxie Sculpt is very similar to Milliput, it breaks or cracks somewhat easily but you can sand it with very few issues once it has cured.
Wow! That was very informative. I was looking to purchase some sculpting products but i haven't found any video comparing multiple products. Thanks! This is video is treasure! :)
I'll be doing a follow up based on comments. Stay tuned. :)
very good video for Putties, your video test everything im looking for, and some thing i don't notice thx
Very informative has always, I really appreciate you doing this mini. I have been using Milliput, for my wood woodworking and diorama projects, but I believe I am going to give this Procreate a go.
I'm glad you found it helpful. :)
Very informative. Thank you, this is exactly what I needed.
Glad it was helpful. :)
im trying to picking out a putty that is perfect for Gundam models and this video has helped me out a lot. i'm going to watch part 2
Informative and helpful as always. Watching people make terrain or do custom work on miniatures I always hear about green-stuff, looks like there might be some good alternatives to check out. Thanks for the hard work :)
Glad you found it helpful. :)
Thanks for sharing the information.
And the 12 year old in me cracks up each time you say procreate..
**chuckle**
Thanks for your amazing videos! really informative and well explained, i would love that you make some similar but analizing different brands of paints for the hobby like Reaper, Vallejo, Scale 75 , P3 , etc Thanks
That's an interesting idea. I'll keep it in the back of my mind. :)
Very interesting overview. I often use green stuff and the brown stuff to convert figures. Now I'm trying to use Tamiya Epoxy Sculpting Putty (Smooth and Quick Dry).
I am glad that I found Your channel. It's very helpful. Greetings!
I'm glad you found it helpful. :)
Great review! Thank you for sharing! BTW Milliput you can also use like a liquid filler, putting water in a bowl shaped piece of it and stirring with a toothpick or similar untill you get the thickness you like to more easily fill in small gaps. just thought I´d share.
Someone else mentioned that as well. I'll be doing a follow up with some more info so stay tuned. :)
Really nice video there packed with lots info.
You can mix milliput with green stuff 50/50 mix and the green stuff turns to a whole new beast. you get a stronger end result but it slows down the curing time. i have seen a few videos on you tube with people doing it.
I think each one has it own strength, milliput is good as a filler, Procreate is good for sculpting, green stuff a good all rounder, as for quick wood you can not get that in the uk as far as i know, maybe its expensive as i guess you can fill Oak with it and it would not be toxic to the Oak, as green stuff, Milliput would over time rot the Oak.
For sculpting i have been using Bee's putty and that stuff is the best stuff i have ever used, down fall is you have to bake it.
I have been doing quite a few experiments of late with putty's in press molds, green stuff is working the best for that.
GS is great for press molds. I wonder how Milliput would compare? **scribbles notes down** The 50/50 mix is worth exploring. Thanks for the info. :)
I have used both and I prefer milliput to be honest. Only problem is it tends to stick to the mould a bit more so you need really let it cure before taking it out.
Fantastic review mike! glad you tried the milliput :)
also did you wet the tool before dragging through the milliput? as i do that and it dont really tear at all?
thegeneraltank
No, I just dragged it dry. It looks like I might be doing a revisit video on these so I'll work that in if I do. Thanks for the idea.
No thank you for the review, as always fantastic work mate :) i would not bother with a revisit this was great and more than enough for people to make a decision on what to try for themselves. Keep it up mike, we all salute you sir :)
thegeneraltank
Too late. A follow up video is already planned. :) Just too many good questions to not revisit them one more time. ;)
This was very informative and it's much appreciated. I would like to have seen how well the different brands react to sanding though. The scratch test did give me some idea . I also have to say that I like the way your presentation and voice are reminiscent of Mr. Bob Ross. I'm not sure if you know who that is but I mean that as a compliment.
I take the Bob Ross reference to be a compliment. :) I loved watching him when I was growing up. I spent many a weekend morning with his 'happy trees'. I'll be doing a part 2 and I'll be looking at sanding as well as other properties I missed in this video. Stay tuned.
This could really do with a part 2 covering 3 things you missed.
1 Drying time. Kind of obvious.
2 How well does it cut? I know Green stuff doesn't cut very well at all but Milliput does. This is why I like milliput, even though I'm now using Vallejo Plastic putty because the drying time is worlds apart and doesn't need mixing.
3 How well does it sand? Not every putty sands well, and who always sculpts the shape they want perfectly?
Your questions are solid. I'm putting a 'Part 2' in the video queue. There are a few other things mention in the comments that would be good to go over as well. Thanks for the great comment. :)
Thanks for the helpful video. If you change the ratio of hardener used, will it change how easy/difficult it is to break the cured epoxy? Also, what is the minimum amount of greenstuff or procreate to mix with milliput in order to make milliput bend rather than break?
Nice video ! Thnks!
I'm still new at using Milliput, but I noticed right away its tendency to sort of liquify when mixed with water. I've seen videos of people thinning it down quite liberally with to the point that it was less putty and more like paste and then applying it with an old paint brush to filling gaps. When I used it, it was to fill a couple of gaps on a model tank kit and it worked great for that, but I haven't tried using it yet to sculpt.
This isn't the first time I've seen/heard of ProCreate and I've been tempted to get some just to have it on hand for specific purposes. Certainly I myself wouldn't use it for general gap filling, but more likely for conversions on miniatures since it seems to sculpt well and cures fairly tough.
On the subject of Green Stuff, I've been searching for better alternatives than the stuff offered by Games Workshop without having to buy a big tube. Granted, if you plan to do a lot of conversion work, gap filling and the like, then that big tube is probably a better investment and since it comes in two separate parts in a tube you don't have to worry about it curing/degrading over time. Now, I know that before someone got the idea to use it for miniature work (sculpting and filling gaps) it was a fairly common item for plumbers, which is interesting because you can still find two part epoxy putty in places like Home Depot, Menards, etc.
I saw this on my last trip to Menards: www.menards.com/main/home-decor/crafts/glue/epoxy/loctite-epoxy-putty-stick/p-1860712-c-7171.htm
Since I haven't used any yet, I can't verify how close it is to Green Stuff, but if you read the description it seems to be fairly similar. It comes in two parts and is used for a variety of things, even apparently sealing gaps underwater. Next time I'm out there, I plan to pick some up and see how it performs, but if it does how I think it will then it may be a fairly inexpensive alternative in a smaller package.
I took a quick look at it, and it might have a pretty fast cure time. Take a look for that info and see if it will stay soft enough for your purpose. I've seen several putties in hardware stores myself. So many to choose from for the experimenter. :)
What I what to fill molds! Also Greenstuff can be liquified mixing it with water. I've a bullbar for a Dakar racing car that will be a nice challenge for their mechanical properties
very usefull thanks
You might find this article interesting: www.artizandesigns.com/guides/hintstips.pdf
Apparently Green Stuff and Milliput are chemically identical, the difference is that Milliput is bulked out with chalk which explains why it works when mixed together. This may also explain why Milliput tends to ' liquify' when used with water.
That is useful information that explains what some others have mentioned. Several people refer to mixing the two together and I wondered how their chemistries were compatible. I'll be looking at some mixes in the pt. 2 follow up this video. :) Thanks for sending the article my way.
Nice review :) Green Stuff is not so sticky when you mix it with miliput. Maybe you will test this also out.
It's on the new list. :)
Hi, I have some BlueStuff moulds. Which would give me the best detail ... WHITE Miliput OR Green Stuff from Green Stuff World ?
Apoxie Sculpt is some really great stuff. It's a self-hardening waterproof modeling compound that comes in two jars, and works somewhat similar to greenstuff in that you mix two parts together. It's a bit chalky when in a working state, and when you use water it gets a bit too slick, but neither is very difficult to work with (though seriously, wash your hands afterwards). It doesn't take detail as well as GS or Procreate, but that's not what it's meant for; rather, this is what you use when you want to bulk a wire model out, or create rocks, or other large shapes that the various putties reviewed here would be too cost-prohibitive to do. Even at the 8oz size, you get a LOT of the stuff to work with, making it an ideal purchase if you buy in bulk.
It's also incredibly durable, probably more than any shown in the video. You can sand it, scrape it, carve it, lathe it, drill it, whatever, the stuff won't crack or flake. It'll also adhere to just about anything--wood, glass, plastic, foam, fiberglass, etc. Personally I use it when I want to make large custom bases for models, or when I sculpt large models or sections of terrain.
As an added bonus, greenstuff sticks to Apoxie Sculpt very well, so use the Apoxie Sculpt for the base figure and then slap on greenstuff for the details.
Great point about being able to apply different materials at different stages to capitalize on their individual benefits. Nice info.
Pls make more depth bending test, specially for greenstunff and procreate..🙏🏻
while i did work with procreate that problem with mixing did emerge only when it was older . you did mention that there are more versions of miliputty - some of them are easier to work with it or for some specific task . for example brown is great for making flat surfaces of armor . Also their is miliputty what is similar like green stuff from GW and maybe gale force 9 have better package. Also from my experience if you don't use some time milliputty it will start to get some kind of crust on surface which you still can use but it get some more time to mix.
If you don't use GS for some time blue part will become harder a bit faster then yellow - but you can use that yellow part to mix it with black part of procreate it will work just fine
I've noticed the blue component hardening over time as well. I'll keep an eye out for the crust on Milliput. :)
You're missing the single component putty, the best for correcting models. If you've an airplane modelkit and you want to hide the border between the two parts of the fuselage, single component are the best. Is also good to rough surfaces, as I will do on a tank to reproduce the imperfections dued by hull's casting.
I recently bought Greenstuff and Milliput, in order to cast copies with Bluestuff. I hope to reduce enough their viscosity
Now I'm gonna look more into Procreate Putty. ^^
Can Milliput and/or other of the putties you tested be dyed with powdered dye or achohol?
I know milliput can become pasty if you add alcohol or spirits to it . This would be good to fill in cracks
I use KwikPlastic from homedepo cause i do not have alot of spending money and it suffers the same problems as quickwood but it is stronger and stands up okay if you dont mix it with to much water i use it mostly to fill gaps in models planes and i just take a small strip and wet my finger and rub it smooth to the plane and it works great for that and i do use it on minis and it seems to work fine for me but later i plan to start working with green stuff or millput
Cool. Always good to know of other options. :)
*****
I find it nice to use it still is alil pricey for someone like me whom is tight on cash but for $5 its not bad i think its 2.0 oz so its cheep when compared to the products you demonstrated in this video and for me works great i think if i ever move onto using something like millput or green stuff i would always use it in combination with KwikPlasitic due to the uses i have already mentioned it for.
kankuro2900
I think it is always a good idea to have multiple products on hand so you can choose the right one for the right application. It's just like hardware, the right tool for the right job will save you time and frustration.
Oh and on a side note, www.polymericsystems.com/epoxies-adhesives/epoxy-putty-tapes/kneadatite-blue-yellow.htm is the manufacturer of most of the putties like green stuff (blue and yellow epoxies) as well as the other putties you get in the big box stores like the quickwood. (they have aquamend, quick aluminum, quick, copper, etc. under their stick putties as well as the blue and yellow, which when bought in their forms of the "tubes" where they keep A / B seperated, lasts forever! I have some from 8 years ago kept in their tube or a zip lock bag and it still works like new.
I actually dropped by their site when I was doing research for the vid. :)
To ignore the gumminess of greenstuff, I use vasoline. Just the regular stuff, nothing different or fancy. I do it because it doesn't leave any fingerprints in the final product.
I've frequently heard that. I suppose the only concern is not being able to add more material over the Vaseline, so top surfaces only?
Actually, I don't know. I've mixed green stuff with vasoline on my hands and as far as I know, it doesn't interfere with the curing or the hardening process.
duke1252 Oh, what I meant is that once the surface has vaseline on it, you won't be able to stick another piece of greenstuff to it. Say, adding hair to a head you previously sculpted. Using vasaline to prevent sticking won't impact it's curing. ** I should add that I have never used vaseline myself, but this has been mentioned and follows logically. ;)
Not that I know of, nor have I experienced tat problem yet.
I'm starting to sculpt onto plastic, what would you recommend?
Greenstuff definately
UNIVERSAL CARVING PROBLEM:
Great review, it has helped me make an informed choice for the job (milliput greenstuff mix!)
I note in the vid you pointed out the results of the test carving of grooves, by pulling and pushing with the knife, small amounts of material are built up and tears left behind on the grooves made by the knife (result of dragging & displacing the putty?)
This small but constant mess made when making lines and grooves is a problem that has ALWAYS plagued my attempts at carving clay etc. I would LOVE to know a fix to keep clean lines when carving, or find a material that doesn’t do this.
Do you know a way to minimise tearing and building up of the material along grooves when carving??
The greenstuff looked the most promising for smooth carving.
+Vikki Wilson I think with clay the best option is to use a tool that 'scoops' out the clay, rather than push it apart. There are special tools in various shapes for this purpose. For a material like greenstuff you are basically tasked with smoothing out the wrinkles as you push it around. But it might be possible to 'scoop' it out with clay tools. Not sure about that however, and milliput might work better in that instance. And you may need to wait until a material sets up to a certain point. Some experimenting would be needed I suspect.
I'm not a sculptor (yet?) so I don't have a lot of experience in this area to really give good advice. :(
that makes sense as I visualise it. I've heard other advice also to brush the deposits aay once set.
+Vikki Wilson I can't stand seeing them on the piece while I work so waiting will kill me. :) But after it hardens you can rub off small bits pretty easy.
So glad they are universal & not just me :)
I'm encouraged.
any idea why procreate is so expensive in canada? Amazon listing is in the range of $60, greenstuff isn't much better at $35, whereas milliput yellow gray is $9 bucks
Whoah! I have no idea. Maybe there is some sort of import tariff on it? Try finding it an independent retailer. I suspect you can find one that will ship to CA. Maybe try the WarStore.com. Not sure if they have it but worth a look.
wellll whonder what will hapen if you mix the difrent one together? welll i got some like the quick wood and dont like it got get new stuf i look fore the others and see whe3t i can do
The top commenter mentions mixing two different materials. I suspect some experimenting would be needed. :)
"Procreate" sounds like an anti-abortion movement.
And QuickWood sounds li
;)
HEEYYY ITS STEW FROM THE HANGOVER
sugru.com/ Its not exactly a "modeling putty" but it is a silicone based "dough" that will air cure to a hardish/but softish "rubber" feel look and durability (i'd say similar to green stuff) and it adheres to most things. Its pretty pricy for the amounts you get but you can get multiple colors, it also has a shelf life of about a year but might want to try the same tests with it as its another option for peeps out there.
People have also made up their own version call oogoo www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/ that is part hardware 100% silicone and cornstarch. (which is loads cheaper) here is a comparison of the two www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Your-Own-Sugru-Substitute/step14/Comparison-of-Oogoo-and-Sugru/
Fun looking material. Thanks for pointing people to it and the DIY method. :)
Stuff does not work I tryed never dry then turn brettle like a 🍪 cookie or bisque
Maybe you had an old package. It could have dried out before you bought it?
First the other type of gs is Brown not blue.
Second, any of the epoxies you can vary the ratio for different results.
I disagree with the coment that apoxie sculpt is not intended for fine detail. I have found it easier to get fine detail the GS and procreate as it's softer in the working state.
Full review of apoxie sculpt is this (and based off experience of using for a decade now as well as all the others except the wood stuff) vs the others at a 50/50 mix:
First off with all of any 2 part epoxy these will change as work time increases so I will base off of initial mixing.
It is the softest and very easy to mix, but wouldn't hold its shape as well in a tentacle shape until mid work life.
It's a bit tacky (so keep tools wet) which with its softness can be a bear if not used to it.
Because it's soft work one area at a time, can't tell you how many times I've tried to do multiple sculpts on the same piece and stuck my fat fingers in a completed piece forcing re-sculpts.
Has a slight muddiness when it gets wet or 'chalky' as the other commenter stated.
It is hard when dry but can carved. It's brittle when dry, but about the same as milliput, but has a smoother finish then milliput.
That stated with any epoxy though (self standing or not) I try to build armatures when I can.
When sculpting I usually will use milliput for filler for larger pieces, GS and apoxy sculpt for detail (or a blend of the two NOTE: must blend completely and work semi quickly) and procreate or a blend of procreate/gs for thin pieces that need to 'stand'
Final opinion on procreate is it is essentially the grey version of GS. The 3 varieties of GS is brown: 'soft', green: mid , and grey: 'hard'
Thanks for taking the time to share your experience with Apoxie Sculpt. :) You mentioning working the material part-way through the cure time is something I didn't think to point out/test. It really increases how you can work with a material.
Yeah depending on any effect I'm doing I purposely let different 2 part epoxies cure a bit before working with it
oldschoolgamerOo
I'll be doing a part 2 to this video and will try to incorporate that idea. Not sure if I can do a good test, but it's always good to mention. :)
What the cure tine ib quick weks
Quick wood