Others have mentioned making your own. I didn't think of it as I have never used a textured paste. I thinking making your own is the best way to go since you can control the grain size. A heavy bodied medium (Golden Heavy Body) would probably be enough of a medium for suspension, but a little playing with it may be needed. Maybe I need to do a follow up on this as well. I'll see if I can squeeze it into the putty pt.2 vid. :)
***** yeah I make my own and do t for dirt cheap! So I can cover very large areas. Now my channel is not nearly as good or large as yours but I do have a couple vids sharing some of my results though the possibilities are quite endless.
Infinite RolePlay I just jumped over to the channel. You have more content than you allude to. :) I really like the eggs on the back of the spider. Nice touch.
Nice review. I used to use Vallejo Pumice or Liquitex Coarse Texture Gel (former is expensive, latter is discontinued) and now have switched to any generic Matte Medium, add in model railroad ballast in whatever grit size I want, and color with a few drops of acrylic paint. You can mix it up it decent sized batches in small jars, and the stuff will stay fresh for years, as long as it stays sealed. Very handy to have specific colors ready at hand.
I have used the Liquitex Resin Sand since 2009 and been very happy with the results. Since as of late is has been very difficult to get more of I think I will try the Vallejo Grey Pumice as it seems to be a close match and is available. Thank you for the review.
Hello, I found this a very interesting video. I am a user of the Vallejo brand. I primarily use this on bases for war game figures, D&D miniatures I've painted, and figures based on stands. I have the sandy paste also. After looking at this video and having used Vallejo, I prefer the Vallejo results. As a rule I paint the figures first. I prime the bases. Then given them a base color of my ground color. I can then mix the same color in a container with some of the Grey Pumice. I really like the grey color or what color textures so I can mix my color. I have found other brands made in white that mix well also. The reason I prime and paint the base with the same base color is because when you mix this with paint it can some times have too much separation of texture material and paint/gel. That can allow the base color to come through and by painting the base you can create a blending effect. You can apply the same principle on terrain. Paint a base coat. Glue figures to figures to bases and let dry thoroughly. You can do the ground cover paint after the glue dries or before you add the figure. I use water based paints with this. Apple Barrel or one of the other water cleanable type brands, sell a larger bottle which is far cheaper vs quantity. If you plan on using the same base color, you can get a large bottle of it and create a lot of ground cover at a cheaper price. After you let the paste dry, you can either paint it if you didn't mix the color ahead of time. The cool thing about this stuff, is while gluing figures down, you can add things like rocks or whatever the base size will take. Then put this stuff around it. Drying time depends on how thick you use the material. The beauty is that if you have miniatures with bottoms on them that raise them on your stand, you can use this as a fill to make every thing level. Once you let this dry thoroughly, you can add things on top like static grass, gravel, rocks. I can use thinned white glue on top of the material after it dries. If you put it on before the ground dries it can act like a glue but it will take a really long time to dry. A tip for using static grass with this material is to leave some areas with the ground cover only. It looks really nice. You can also use things like railroading fine ballast rocks and other materials or other material that can be put on with thinned white glue. I uses some of these things when I'm using the gel/paste as a filler material on the base and just let a bit show through. You can do the things he described and a camp area for instance could be laid out. Just make sure if you plan to use tent or other structures, that you want them on top or not. I recommend first, unless you can get a really good flat area or don't plan for them to be pertinent. You can make the ground cover lower or raised in places. Another tip, if you do plan to super glue anything while material is wet, it will craze (get the white affect) around the glue area and whatever you are gluing in. This can be touched up when everything is dry. I believe it is a reaction between the moisture in the base material and the super glue. Also, I recommend getting 2 bottles. While this stuff lasts, painting a army will probably take up more depending scale and base size. If you make a mistake such as getting a bit on your figure, you can use water to clean it off. You'll want to do it as soon as possible. A flat tool and brushes help to spread this around. If you have any wet glue be careful around the glue as it will damage tools. That and the crazing is why I recommend making sure everything is dry and to take the time to do it in stages. Hope this helps, Ronda
I really appreciate your thoroughness in these reviews. I have yet to see one that didn't provide with enough information to make an informed decision. Thanks. :)
Thank you for that. I love that I get suggestions from viewers on them, and I will be doing a follow up to this vid soon. I try to include a lot of info, but there are lots of great info I miss.
I've been using Golden Coarse Pumice Gel for my miniature bases and small areas on terrain pieces. I really like the effect and it's a lot easier than doing a sand mixture. I do agree if you're going to do a large terrain piece covered with it the sand mixture is going to be more cost effective. :)
matte or gloss medium mixed with art sand and/or coffee grounds. basically any hard medium of any size that can be mixed with the acrylic. there is also super heavy gesso that could take to the brush stippling.
If you wanted to do this again, try liquitex ceramic stucco. It looks very much like the vallejo sandy paste. I was trying to see what natural sand looks like and I like my stucco better so thanks! :)
That is a very interesting, i have never really thought about using the pastes for base work, i can see that coming in handy. there is a couple of them that i could really use. :)
Others have mentioned making your own. I didn't think of it as I have never used a textured paste. I thinking making your own is the best way to go since you can control the grain size. A heavy bodied medium (Golden Heavy Body) would probably be enough of a medium for suspension, but a little playing with it may be needed.
Tfs! Was wondering how the all ready done texture pastes looked. I use modeling paste or gel mediums with different viscosity mixed with texture ( sand, micro beads etc.) And/or paint to get these results, usually a lot cheaper too. Mixed media arts have a lot of cool stuff you can use in this type of crafts too! ☺
I love the idea of controlling the texture yourself by selecting your own grit material. Cost aside (which I imagine would be much cheaper), it gives the artist the maximum control. And, if you ever find a material that you think would be great for modelers from the craft world, please feel free to mention it. I love being exposed to new materials and ideas!
I have the Vallejo "Red Oxide" texture paint, and I've noticed that it doesn't dry completely hard. It feels gummy. It seems like it's just not 100% dried. Is this normal? Do these texture paints remain gummy after they dry? In my case, I only used a thin layer. I used it to base a Warhammer fig.
great review! I´ve got a question for you.... maybe it´s an amateur one... but anyway... I´ve notice that on every sample you have the paste applied pretty much in a flat way, and the other half is aplied with sharpe peaks that you later highlighted.... I´m in need to now how you get to do those peaks :) ... I can only figure it´s some tool or technique that´s out of my knowlege....
I use Artmasters "Modellerpasta" medium-fine structure. Depending on how much paint, water and glue I mix into it, I get different kinds of textures. Lately I have started using regular grout from the local DIY. I mix it with water and PVA glue and paint it on. It gives amazingly looking realistic textures to wargames buildings.
wellll ok it depeds on what need you mack own by geting sand or what ever and adding it to paint and macking as mutch you like to have (yes thay mack in lage paint cans to do rooms but that might be tuo mutch who knows ? ) or this might be right fore you thay have paint sampels that are not to big if dont need a lot thats just me
ArtofModeling Oh dear. Perhaps I should have included a bit of a description on that. I suspect you won't be the only person with that question. :)It is a paste that people generally apply to the bases of their miniatures to give it some soil like texture, instead of using glue and sand. In art, people use texture pastes/gels to create different effects on paintings for instance.
The liquitex is usually pretty good with the descriptions on the back of their stuff. I just got the Liquitex Modeling Paste. On the back it says, "A matte, opaque preparation of marble dust and polymer emulsion."
Excellent review mate, I'd love to hear your opinions on diy/industrial products for texturing mate
Others have mentioned making your own. I didn't think of it as I have never used a textured paste. I thinking making your own is the best way to go since you can control the grain size. A heavy bodied medium (Golden Heavy Body) would probably be enough of a medium for suspension, but a little playing with it may be needed.
Maybe I need to do a follow up on this as well. I'll see if I can squeeze it into the putty pt.2 vid. :)
*****
yeah I make my own and do t for dirt cheap! So I can cover very large areas. Now my channel is not nearly as good or large as yours but I do have a couple vids sharing some of my results though the possibilities are quite endless.
Infinite RolePlay I just jumped over to the channel. You have more content than you allude to. :) I really like the eggs on the back of the spider. Nice touch.
Nice review. I used to use Vallejo Pumice or Liquitex Coarse Texture Gel (former is expensive, latter is discontinued) and now have switched to any generic Matte Medium, add in model railroad ballast in whatever grit size I want, and color with a few drops of acrylic paint. You can mix it up it decent sized batches in small jars, and the stuff will stay fresh for years, as long as it stays sealed. Very handy to have specific colors ready at hand.
Nice, since you can control the grain size.
I have used the Liquitex Resin Sand since 2009 and been very happy with the results. Since as of late is has been very difficult to get more of I think I will try the Vallejo Grey Pumice as it seems to be a close match and is available. Thank you for the review.
Hello,
I found this a very interesting video. I am a user of the Vallejo brand. I primarily use this on bases for war game figures, D&D miniatures I've painted, and figures based on stands. I have the sandy paste also.
After looking at this video and having used Vallejo, I prefer the Vallejo results.
As a rule I paint the figures first.
I prime the bases. Then given them a base color of my ground color. I can then mix the same color in a container with some of the Grey Pumice. I really like the grey color or what color textures so I can mix my color. I have found other brands made in white that mix well also.
The reason I prime and paint the base with the same base color is because when you mix this with paint it can some times have too much separation of texture material and paint/gel. That can allow the base color to come through and by painting the base you can create a blending effect. You can apply the same principle on terrain. Paint a base coat.
Glue figures to figures to bases and let dry thoroughly. You can do the ground cover paint after the glue dries or before you add the figure.
I use water based paints with this. Apple Barrel or one of the other water cleanable type brands, sell a larger bottle which is far cheaper vs quantity. If you plan on using the same base color, you can get a large bottle of it and create a lot of ground cover at a cheaper price.
After you let the paste dry, you can either paint it if you didn't mix the color ahead of time.
The cool thing about this stuff, is while gluing figures down, you can add things like rocks or whatever the base size will take. Then put this stuff around it.
Drying time depends on how thick you use the material. The beauty is that if you have miniatures with bottoms on them that raise them on your stand, you can use this as a fill to make every thing level.
Once you let this dry thoroughly, you can add things on top like static grass, gravel, rocks. I can use thinned white glue on top of the material after it dries. If you put it on before the ground dries it can act like a glue but it will take a really long time to dry. A tip for using static grass with this material is to leave some areas with the ground cover only. It looks really nice. You can also use things like railroading fine ballast rocks and other materials or other material that can be put on with thinned white glue. I uses some of these things when I'm using the gel/paste as a filler material on the base and just let a bit show through.
You can do the things he described and a camp area for instance could be laid out. Just make sure if you plan to use tent or other structures, that you want them on top or not. I recommend first, unless you can get a really good flat area or don't plan for them to be pertinent. You can make the ground cover lower or raised in places.
Another tip, if you do plan to super glue anything while material is wet, it will craze (get the white affect) around the glue area and whatever you are gluing in. This can be touched up when everything is dry. I believe it is a reaction between the moisture in the base material and the super glue.
Also, I recommend getting 2 bottles. While this stuff lasts, painting a army will probably take up more depending scale and base size.
If you make a mistake such as getting a bit on your figure, you can use water to clean it off. You'll want to do it as soon as possible.
A flat tool and brushes help to spread this around. If you have any wet glue be careful around the glue as it will damage tools. That and the crazing is why I recommend making sure everything is dry and to take the time to do it in stages.
Hope this helps,
Ronda
+Ronda Gilmore Great explanation of your process. Looks solid to me and I think others will appreciate it. :)
I really appreciate your thoroughness in these reviews. I have yet to see one that didn't provide with enough information to make an informed decision. Thanks. :)
Thank you for that. I love that I get suggestions from viewers on them, and I will be doing a follow up to this vid soon. I try to include a lot of info, but there are lots of great info I miss.
I've been using Golden Coarse Pumice Gel for my miniature bases and small areas on terrain pieces. I really like the effect and it's a lot easier than doing a sand mixture. I do agree if you're going to do a large terrain piece covered with it the sand mixture is going to be more cost effective. :)
matte or gloss medium mixed with art sand and/or coffee grounds. basically any hard medium of any size that can be mixed with the acrylic.
there is also super heavy gesso that could take to the brush stippling.
Ooh. Gesso. I didn't think of that. **scribbles notes**
thank you so much. I am new to 28mm plastic bases.
Thanks for the review Mike. I never used them however I may in the future.
Glad you found it helpful. :)
If you wanted to do this again, try liquitex ceramic stucco. It looks very much like the vallejo sandy paste. I was trying to see what natural sand looks like and I like my stucco better so thanks! :)
Cool paste. I didn't know abouit it. I'll mention it in the next comments video. Thanks!
Who you review them better than Liquitex itself 👌
That is a very interesting, i have never really thought about using the pastes for base work, i can see that coming in handy. there is a couple of them that i could really use. :)
Glad you found it helpful. :)
Nice! Thank you for the comparison of both products.
:)
I would love to see another patch next to these that's just sand mixed with paint or medium.
Others have mentioned making your own. I didn't think of it as I have never used a textured paste. I thinking making your own is the best way to go since you can control the grain size. A heavy bodied medium (Golden Heavy Body) would probably be enough of a medium for suspension, but a little playing with it may be needed.
Somebody else mentioned gesso as the medium. I'll be doing a follow up on this so keep an eye on the channel. :)
what would happen if you mixed one of the lava gel (paste?) with some crackling texture?
Happy thanksgiving...
Thanks. I'm belated but - same to you. :)
All good...
Tfs! Was wondering how the all ready done texture pastes looked. I use modeling paste or gel mediums with different viscosity mixed with texture ( sand, micro beads etc.) And/or paint to get these results, usually a lot cheaper too. Mixed media arts have a lot of cool stuff you can use in this type of crafts too! ☺
I love the idea of controlling the texture yourself by selecting your own grit material. Cost aside (which I imagine would be much cheaper), it gives the artist the maximum control. And, if you ever find a material that you think would be great for modelers from the craft world, please feel free to mention it. I love being exposed to new materials and ideas!
Great video man bout time some one coverd the topic. was wondering why you left out GW's specialist range I know they have a few.
+Byron Pocock No particular reason other than this was expensive enough for me. ;) I never planned on using them and put them up in a giveaway.
I have the Vallejo "Red Oxide" texture paint, and I've noticed that it doesn't dry completely hard. It feels gummy. It seems like it's just not 100% dried. Is this normal? Do these texture paints remain gummy after they dry? In my case, I only used a thin layer. I used it to base a Warhammer fig.
Did you let it dry fully before covering it with paint and/or varnish?
great review! I´ve got a question for you.... maybe it´s an amateur one... but anyway... I´ve notice that on every sample you have the paste applied pretty much in a flat way, and the other half is aplied with sharpe peaks that you later highlighted.... I´m in need to now how you get to do those peaks :) ... I can only figure it´s some tool or technique that´s out of my knowlege....
Pretty sure he just stippled them. I.e. poke them on instead of brush them.
I use Artmasters "Modellerpasta" medium-fine structure. Depending on how much paint, water and glue I mix into it, I get different kinds of textures. Lately I have started using regular grout from the local DIY. I mix it with water and PVA glue and paint it on. It gives amazingly looking realistic textures to wargames buildings.
Grout for texture. Nice. Do you use it on flat walls for a plaster effect?
Yes, I do. I find that even very thin layers create nice uneven surfaces.
WizardOfTheHills
Nice. I'm making a note of it right now. Thanks.
When you say painted do you mean paint over it or mix it with paint?
Umm. Can't remember. Paint over it I think. I wouldn't mix paint in normally, but it could be done.
Personally, I make my own.. Thanks to Nefthalie at Infinite Roleplay How to make Modeling Paste; Alternative Recipies, VLOG 004
***** Creating your own can be a great way to go. You can control color and texture much better.
Great review!
How long does it take for the Vellejo paste to harden?
It really depends on the thickness. Pretty fast if you don't build it up too much.
wellll ok it depeds on what need you mack own by geting sand or what ever and adding it to paint and macking as mutch you like to have (yes thay mack in lage paint cans to do rooms but that might be tuo mutch who knows ? ) or this might be right fore you thay have paint sampels that are not to big if dont need a lot thats just me
I'll be doing a DIY update in the future.
with is Texture Pastes and with is it use for
ArtofModeling Oh dear. Perhaps I should have included a bit of a description on that. I suspect you won't be the only person with that question. :)It is a paste that people generally apply to the bases of their miniatures to give it some soil like texture, instead of using glue and sand. In art, people use texture pastes/gels to create different effects on paintings for instance.
***** THANK YOU
They all seem like sand mixed with medium.
That is a good basic description. Different particle sizes and medium stiffness-es.
The liquitex is usually pretty good with the descriptions on the back of their stuff. I just got the Liquitex Modeling Paste. On the back it says, "A matte, opaque preparation of marble dust and polymer emulsion."