Using Milliput Epoxy Putty
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
- Using Milliput two-part, water soluble epoxy putty for filling, making soldering jigs and more. Demonstrated on a Combat Kits Shorts Belfast resin model. Channel sponsored by Thunderbird Models and Chilliwack Slotcar Palace.
thunderbirdmodels.com
/ slotcarpalace
warpedplastic.co.uk
www.freightdogmodels.co.uk/
If you'd like to buy me a doughnut, I'd be ever so appreciative! www.buymeacoffee.com/tbirdmodelv - Jak na to + styl
Modeller of 50 years, I'd never use anything else. Other putties have uses but not gap filling.
You can knead water into Milliput so it can have a consistency anything from cold plasticene to that of toothpaste. For gaps, you can use Tamiya tape to mask the plastic either side of the gap. Use an old hobby blade to spread toothpaste consistency Milliput into the gap like butter on toast. Smoothe with a wet finger, remove the tape. This eliminates hours of sanding and protects recessed detail from being accidentally filled. If some detail IS compromised, clean up with an old, wet paint brush.
This is just one use for this brilliant product. It's also really economical. In 20 years I've bought two packs.
These vids are very practical with a great amount of humor. I hope your inevitable airbrush video is the same.
I have found rolling the two parts of the putties into thin sausage like strips then almost plaiting them together before kneading helps getting an even mix. When using the Superfine White you need to ensure that the mix is very good as it's very difficult to differentiate between the two parts.
So do I. It works a treat.
Aha! The one thing I had a problem with when I used it some years back was the crusty bits that wouldn't mix well. Now I know to remove it! Excellent video. Thank you.
Too funny, same here. I had no idea the crusty exterior had to be removed, so I stopped using it. Onward and upward, as they say.
I like how you take the piss out of the thing that are so common now on CZcams to see.
But you make it more practical and back to basic's Like todays often forgotten produce. Model makers have used for years but not often now talked about now.
As they often see it what's the next best greatest thing out there. Oh wait did we not use to do that, but the product use to be call something different if I remember.
Holding to the KISS principle, Keep it simple stupid.
I think for me, Milliput seems like a lot of work. Love the videos and the humour. Keep up the good work.
You're a gem in the rough sir! Keep up the great content, I love it!!! I genuinely laugh at the bits you do!
Lol😂 no, product placement ? Not you...the Lucky Charms was really funny! Milliput is all I ever use, I have tried air dry, and, it has its uses, for brickwork it saves a lot of time if you have a mold thingy, but everything else Milliput is my favourite too, oh I never realised about the layer on the outside, it doesn't make much difference in a lot of things but, if you are shaping it for a miniature, I think this would help a lot.
To be fair, the Millipit I have is a few years old so probably has more "skin" than a new pack. Problem is of course, you have no idea how old it is when you buy it! Many thanks for the comments
Some usefull tools to work Milliput are the silicon clay shaping tools which also work well with other fillers. I've been using Milliput for years and use it for rebuilding structural items . I used it to build a new nose for the original Airfix Bolton Paul Defiant and all the smoothing was done with a damp wet wipe. No sanding at all. If you do sand it it definitely needs wet sanding as it clogs tools up otherwise.
Oh wow I thought I was the only person that used those tools for the intended purpose
I love your style 😂
Wow, I want that Belfast (My home town many years ago!).
That’s a big chunk of resin but no problem.
DJ Parkins stuff is top notch, I’ve bought many things from him.
If you’re looking any upgrades, PE etc than have a gander at his site.
I’d love to see a video of the Belfast when you’ve finished it.
Ta mucker,
Ian
Thanks for that video. I found using the putty as a jig a very interesting idea. Something I would not have thought of. Do you think you might show that plane on your channel once it is finished ? That would be very cool to see. 👍
Hadn't thought of it but it may well be a good topic for a future video on resin model construction! Many thanks for the feedback.
Another excellent video! Great tips for using Milliput as a mold & soldering jig.
Gotta wear black gloves so you look like a cool custom car mechanic or tatoo artist! 😁
Very good ....and very funny as well! thanks
I've used Milliput for decades. I use it for filling gaps in my wargames figure conversions. But primeraly I use it on the figures bases to build up around a figure's actual base.
I love your channel keep the videos coming .all the best mate 👍
I bought some the other day . I haven't used it for a couple of years after I finished my last lot. However, I was surprised to find both sticks were sealed and the grey stick didn't have that brown crust on it. It blended really well, too.
Your slightly, well quite obvious, tongue in cheek vids are a real breath of fresh air. Great for a chuckle. Enjoyable and very informative so a big "thank you" and more please my friend. 😃
I have used Aves Apoxy Sculp in the past as well. It was useful in many of the same ways as milliput but it also came in different colors. I found it's texture was a little better for sculpting
I warm the two worms slightly before I knead them, it stops the pale one being so crumbly and they combine easier. Just gentle warming in a bag in your pocket, not in a saucepan.
Good tip, thanks!
I have been enjoying your content very much, I exclusively used Milliput for many years. Nowadays I'm using Aves Apoxie sculpt. A few years ago I was out of Milliput and I couldn't get it locally, the store only had the Aves product in stock, so I gave it a try. For one thing it's packaged in sperate part A and B plastic containers which is so much better than the Milliput packaging. I found that it works as a gap filler just like Milliput only with less fuss. It kneads together better and you can use water with it the same as Milliput. I don't like to change from products I'm used to if they get the job done but I stopped buying Milliput and Green Stuff and use Aves as a replacement for both, you may want to give it a try.
Aves Sculpt was developed to be used as a Taxidermy tool for understructure of mounts. I use Milliput and 'Green stuff', which dries with more of a hard rubber feel to it. I like them all for different applications.
Damn, and here you said you wouldn't do box opening videos and out the gate you have what's in the epoxy box 😂
Lmao - dammit, you got me! 🤣
Its brilliant stuff, i have used it for as long as i can remember. I also use it on cast metal wargaming figures.
Hi, This was quite informative, and I enjoy your video presentation style which is fun.
The video was good but although you mention Milliput often having a skin (basically going off!, or 'Gone Off!!) you did not seem to mention in your video what the actual shelf life of Milliput is.. The following info at the bottom is taken direct from the Milliput Company web site...
It is important to note that 2 years is only the case if it is stored well and hot places such as window cills or shop windows in the sun degrade it quickly, so its always best to buy from places that 'turn it over' quickly and get it as fresh as you can. Model shops rarely throw stock away and if they don't sell enough it will go off in the store and its then 'buyer beware'!
If you buy it regularly it 'should not' have a skin and if it is new stock it mixes better and does not 'crumble' like it seemed the case in your video. I have found that removing it from the original bag and putting into zip lock bags tightly rolled and then storing at the top of the fridge (but not where it might freeze against the back) will extend the shelf life quite a bit, let it warm up to room temp before using though.
Even better if you have a vacuum sealer, as my mate does, using one of these is even better as it lasts and lasts and lasts, but not everyone has those.
Milliput also now do six versions of the product, 1 - Yellow/Grey Original, 2 - Silver/Grey, 3 - White - Superfine, 4 - Terracotta, 5 - Black and 6 - Turquoise (new colour introduced in May 2019)
Hope this helps you and others...
Info from Milliput website : -
"Storage and Shelf Life
Milliput will have a storage life of approximately 2 years providing it is stored in cool, dry conditions. Place unused epoxy putty in polythene bags and re-seal. Storage at high temperatures or high humidity may reduce shelf life.
We know customers have softened Milliput by placing it in a microwave on defrost for a few seconds (although this is a practice we could not endorse)."
Very useful information, thank you. My modelling area is a rather chilly basement so this is no doubt a factor, though it does mean I don't have to store it in the fridge! The problem is that, having no date of manufacture and/ or expiry date on the box, there is no way of knowing how old the Milliput is even when bought "new". I have always had the skin and crumbly issues even from stock I've recently purchased direct from one of my suppliers. Perhaps Milliput would consider putting a DoM or expiry on their products in future.
A very useful (and entertaining) video. I've recently had my first go at using epoxy putty (Green Stuff in my case, but epoxy putty is epoxy putty, probably) with reasonable results for a beginner. I'll use gloves and more water in future as I found that it prefers to stick to skin rather than plastic, but otherwise it wasn't too difficult. Today I'll try moulding a lump of it into what I hope will be a pack for a soldier to carry. What could possibly go wrong....
With me, just about anything!
another classic i love your off hand humour i have never been ble to wear gloves for moddelling i just always wash my hands every few minutes also i have found sometimes using water to stop tools sticking can be a bit of a pain so on some occasions i used talcum power ( baby powder ) for some people in the wider world and did i hear you say you make decals or just design them for people as a video on making your own would be a good video to do
Thanks for the comments! I design decals (and masks) for my own Thunderbird Models range as well as for other people. They are printed by specialist screen printing companies however, that's something that's beyond my means.
Great video! I've always used the white version as I find it gives a better finish. One thing I do is place the putty over the gap and paint it over it with a wet brush. You get a really good finish that follows the contours of the parts you're joining and it needs next to no sanding because it's already smooth enough. I think it would have worked well on that tail joint you filled and you may not have needed to do so much re-scribing.
Yeah. The white is finer, leading to a better finnish.
But i found, if you want "bulk" youre better off starting with green, then going over with white for finner details.
Yeah that's fine, just go with whatever works for you.@@Andy-ub3ub
I often use the white stuff, though I prefer the grey/green for larger areas that will still need a lot of finishing work such as the Belfast tail. I would have to rescribe regardless as the filler covered such a large area that the panel lines were covered up.
@@warpedplastic I see. Well, it's like I said to Andy, you do what you do, I was just saying what I do.
I have never encountered a skin on Milliput before. It looks like a right Royal Pain. Also," crumbly"? I think you are using old stock. Time to buy new packs maybe?
It is fairly old, yes, but I find the resin to be somewhat crumbly at first even in a brand new pack until water is added. The skin too is there in newer stuff, though not as bad as it is on older stock.
@@warpedplastic I am sorry to note that you are experiencing these issues, even when you purchase new stock. I admire you for persevering with these matters and for achieving such outstanding results with these unnecessary drawbacks. I would have blown my top long ago, had this happened more than once. I am currently making Blankets and Saddles for a dozen old TIMPO Camels (Blue Stuff is my preference for Moulds). I bought the Basic Yellow from eBay a couple of months ago. Each pack is exactly as I would expect. If not, I would get my money back. Thank you for your channel. I appreciate your work and enjoy your sense of humour. Grand stuff. Cheers.
Oh well done! Do you have a link for Combat Models as well?
Thanks feller! So far, no. He doesn't have a website, though could be on FB.
Looks like slices of german sausage. Thanks for the info, very good demo.
Is blue neoprene ok for us ecxema suffers?
Yes. AKA nitrile gloves. Used in hospitals for those poor souls who react badly to latex. You can also buy polythene gloves if you react to nitrile!
Great video. Fun to watch. One question I have is you the term “step”. Not familiar with the term. Could you amplify?
The two sections don't line up, one is slightly higher than the other creating a small "step".
Thank you
Who needs flex seal?🤣
Good for dental worx?😳
Covid theater N95?🙄
Jman
I've used milliput for sculpting and filling gaps my preferred medium. Sorry to say you made look way to hard filling those gaps you used too much milliput. Maybe look at some tutorials on how to use it then make a video on how to use it properly.
Thanks for the input. Perhaps you'd like to share your expertise with your own video?
A tip from the (slightly) deaf, Fred.
Do not put your model between your mouth and your camera while talking to your audience.
Come to think about it, don't even do that for your HEARING audience...
Thanks for the tip, but I'm actually using a lapel mike so there is never anything between it and my mouth. It isn't the best quality admittedly so there are some sound issues sometimes.
@@warpedplastic Thanks for the reply, but you miss my point.
Deaf people need to see your MOUTH moving. Someone who is totally deaf will not see your soundtrack. I'm not (yet) but my mother is, so I know of the problem.
Fun fact... Hearing people rely 20% on watching a person's mouth to work out what they just said.
@@sarumano884 Good to know.
I just use caulk.