How not to cast parts with Blue Stuff and Milliput
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2023
- I am not going to tell you how I cast parts for wargame miniatures with blue stuff. No sir.
Or will I?
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I only wanted the arm and not the storm bolter. The reasons will become clear in a later video.
Surely they won't become clear since you didn't want the arm?
@@Del_S touche
Thanks for not telling me about the wet paper trick im surely grateful for not learning something new
place small amounts of milliput in at a time and use a sculpting tool to squish it into all the cavities gives crisp detail. Trovarion Miniatures has a video on it very helpful.
Good thing you didn't tell us to put that blue stuff in a mold box so the squish doesn't flow away from the sample part. 👍
I wouldn't dare
I did not use blue stuff (but red) and Poundland epoxy resin to make small parts and gubbins. I also do not note that the blue stuff is also known as oyomaru and comes in other colours.
Indeed. I do not have any other colours, not even that almost colourless one.😅
This has to be the most ominous-sounding tutorial on YT.
I've found using small amounts of UV resin instead of milliput at a time also achieves the same affect but is harder to accidentally break
I've got some spray on wax, after the bluestuff has cooled i spray it, and after about a minute it's good to put the other half on. After that it splits without any effort
I'ts a good thing you told nothing about recasting with Blue stuff and milliput, as I have totally not done so in the past and have had just as janky a result as you have absolutely not depicted here.
Thank you for telling us how to avoid doing this, great service to the community!
When making copies of my personal sculptures, would you recommend placing a small length of wire inside to act as a kind of 'rebar'? I worry that small knocks would break the miliput.
That's a good idea. I haven't done that before but it does make sense. Paperclips would work fine.
Consider using UV resin (the sort used in a 3D printer) rather than milliput. Create the mold, pour the resin in, place the mold in a sunny location (or UV curing machine) for a few minutes, and remove the solid resin item from the mold when it has set. It's a little brittle, but otherwise can be worked like any other resin.
Just be careful, though. UV resin is pretty toxic, so wear gloves when handling the wet stuff, and keep the room well ventilated. Once cured, however, the resin is perfectly safe to handle.
Cool. I would like to try that.
Or alternatively don't build an openscan mini and use photogrammetry to scan the parts you need ;) and certainly don't print as many as you like off...
😁
Honestly I would’ve poured some sprue goo into the mold and waited for that to harden
Interesting
think the putty was not in "flowing" case? that blue form should be good? thanks for the wet paper trick
i used frischhaltefolie =)
CU
🤣 Nice!! 👍
Thanks 😊
If they stopped making the item thereby cutting off the only supply then screw 'em, all rules no longer apply. Also if you didn't actually sell your creations for profit but purely own use then crack on, fearless 👍☺ I've already made some old edition goblin torsos and left arms with this method thereby doubling my number of models from a box not available for a decade.
Can super glue with baking soda casting on blue stuff/oyumaru?
I think it would stick to the blue stuff
I didn't learn or watch anything.
I do not thank you for this tutorial, the wet paper barrier is not a very good idea, I definitely will not try this.
No thank you, hope you do not have a great day
You are not welcome 😅
Thanks for nothing, I will leave disappointed and non the wiser, who even suggests that paper trick? I certainly won't take that on board now.
Yeah don't you even think about it 😉
@Miniscape-wh40k Oh I won't! I've even subscribed just to keep an eye on this useless content and warn others.
@@bloodzyAU yes! Tell everyone you know not to do the same 😅