I completely understand what you mean I've been shooting modern Firearms my whole life. When I got my hands on some old antique firearms. I fell in love with shooting all over again plus the history of it all
I built a .62 caliber 38” rifled barrel and built it all from scratch. I went with a swamped barrel, a block of CM5 tiger maple wood and did all the wood carving and silver wire inlay. I was nervous as you can be, but it all turned out great and i have taken three deer with it and two hogs. I got burned out on building custom bolt guns. Shooting and hunting with flintlocks is an adventure all in its own and I would not take for it. I hope you enjoy as much as I do. Great video!
All you needed for this video is your tri-corner hat! And really, you look great in those period clothes! A great video indeed and I enjoyed it much and very informative as well. I certainly understand what you’re saying about our Ancestors and so much they had to endure. Black powder gives us appreciation for our history and a far better understanding of those times. Also the power of the musket/rifle and the great art and craftsmanship that went into the making of a gun, about 300 hours I’ve been told. Understand this includes carving and engraving and blacksmithing. So much filing too! Kind Thanks and Many Blessings Friends! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
I have built 2 Investarms kits as a basis for a Custom Rifle for My specific Use. The First was a offhand percussion Target rifle with a hand tapered Barrel and Lyman Target sights with inserts and a palm rest.
From your "possibles bag", I thought you were going to pull out a half-stick of gum, like my mom would find for me from her "purse" when I got squirmy in church! Another fabulous video, thanks! I thinks I want a flintlock...
Carl Gula Just do it… I got into black powder probably 30 years ago now… now I’m strictly into “smoothies” now… I hardly ever mess with my modern firearms… I’m kinda like 11bangbang the cartridge weapons have lost their allure…
I got the Bite of black powder in the 90s did not shoot them eneny Moore. Was going to sell this year . But seen video on black powder when I seen Blackie Thomes
Outstanding! I'm looking forward to this series & the Independence Day video. I got into flintlocks for both the love of firearms and history. FYI: There was some interesting research & battlefield archeology done at the "Parker's Revenge" site in Lexington several years ago. There are some videos on YT here & there if you are interested.
@@Real11BangBang My pleasure! I full on went down the rabbit hole on this one, found their research notes & photos online, etc. After all these years & topographical changes, it's amazing they found any musketballs, let alone volleyfire.
You can get custom moulds made Callahan's bag molds. He can make you a .630 round ball mold. *** Leather was used to hold the flint, so was lead, particularly in military settings. However, in the late 90's / early 2000's a few loaded trade guns were found, a long with thousands of round balls, all sung in fresh water at a waterfall. These were French trade guns. The average calibre was .58 for the round balls. Interestingly, the flints were still in the cocks. Held firmly by wool felt. Wool felt is virtually fire proof. It makes sense.
You are spot on and with regard to expensive rifles like my pendersoli you have to distress them to make them look more authentic! they should have cosmetic flaws we’re talking 18th century even then I’ll bet the rifles were a little rough especially the military rifles that they banged out to get to the troops. Out of the box you know your looking at a 21 century rifle with a Pendersoli they shoot great but need a lot of rough use IMO to make them correct or refinished to add age. Keep em coming enjoy watching them!
This was a year ago you may not even read it but if you do you May learn something. I saw mr. Kibler use a small piece of Steel, it kind of look like a file, to sharpen a flint now of course it wasn't loaded it was a brand-new Flint but the way he demonstrated it was pretty cool. He stuck his finger under the Flint and napped it that way and that's the way I plan on napping my Flint from now on. I thought it was a pretty cool way to nap your flints but you probably got your way and it works for you so you do you and I'll do me. Can't hurt to try though.
I shall join you on this flintlock Kool-Aid drinking adventure! Lol my first flintlock arrives in two days (Traditions Hawken 50 cal flintlock). “RAKKASAN”
I started with a 45 caliber cva cannon you could buy from the hardware store. My buddy and I bought 45 cal. Cva derringers and proceeded to ruin all our Tonka toys! Imagine two 12 year olds blasting Tonka toys with the pistol the killed ol’ Abe. ps: I just ordered the ‘Char’ for the history of it all!
The most common over the ball wading was 'tow' (made from flax and looks like a ball of cotton - don't use cotton it will melt). But flax smolders and can catch dry grass on fire. Could be illegal for that reason in some National Forrest's. Rich people centuries ago might use wool cloth instead of flax, but cloth was more expensive per shot than lead or powder! Wool will not cause a fire. And these days is cheap (it's weaved by machine instead of by hand).
Cotton does not “melt”. It burns. Many pre-cut patches are cotton. Frontiersman would most likely have used leather as a patch material as cloth was expensive. Cooper describes its use in his novels. You are right about tow.
pyrodex is not preferred, but for those who cant get traditional black powder, pyrodex will work. most of us do frown on it because it is a lesser product, but it's definitely a viable option in the absence of preferred. You are correct in that it requires strict maintenance.
it does work for caplocks however it really does not work for flintlocks. it has way to high of a flash piont. it may not flash at all and if it does it causes extreme hang fires
So.. any fears or trouble getting your musket to fire when forced to drill thru the hollow area of breechplug? Seems like a long way to expect the flash of the pan to reach thru to powder charge. I plan to drill with 1/16” but fear the lenght of the touch hole getting thru barrel AND breech plug. Seems like it’ll foul shut fast.
I have a traditions 50 caliber flintlock I use the fake Pyro decks powder and I have the exact problem you just stated I have went through two different locks thinking that was the issue and hundreds of flints
no not currently. we did have but you tube frowns on even taking flintlocks apart on camera. how ever i will say all it generally requires is hot water scrub followed by a light oil
After watching some of your videos I bought a military heritage long land brown bess and it arrived over the weekend. I drilled the flash hole no problem, i ordered flints (1-1/8x 1 1/4 size like it recommended) from track of the wolf and they arrived today and I’m having issues with my flint and creating spark. A lot of the time when the flint strikes the hammer/frizzen it gets stuck about half way and does not push the hammer forward and out of the way. And it almost never makes spark although i can clearly see it making contact with the hammer. Not sure if this is being caused by the hammer spring being too stiff or maybe the surface of the hammer isn’t good? The flints seem plenty sharp and I’m doing my best to align them for a good amount of contact but maybe I’m doing something wrong lol
So a few things to check First of all, make sure that all points of contact on the frizzen pivot screw and on the frizzen toe as well as where the pan and the lock plate meet up with the frizzen toe are all polished. Another thing is use a slow motion camera to monitor what your lock is doing. Whenever the sear is dropped a lot of times, the frizzen will actually go all the way down and bounce back. This is what is known as a rebound and will look like it only went halfway. As for not getting Sparks you may have to re-harden your frizzen I have done this before and have a video on this subject. The best way to test it is to use a file. If the file skates over the frizzen then it is at correct hardness. If it leaves gouges and begins to remove material, it is too soft. Also, if a frizzen is too soft, sometimes the Flint cuts too deep into the steel and causes the frizzen to not open all the way Hope this helps
I would love to get back into it but in The California Bay Area its hard to find anyone who has black powder, Caps , Flints , kits, complete guns etc. its as if we have gone back to the stone age.
You can order stuff online through the Internet, but in the communist state of California any muzzleloader will still have to be delivered to an FFL, not sure about the black powder whether you can have that delivered or not, knowing California probably not, good luck! Glad I fled that communist state 10 years ago, should’ve done it long before that.
Im also in the bay area and you can get it all shipped here, that’s what i did. Some stores have cap n ball supplies but Ive yet to find any flint lock supplies which is why i went to the internet. If you order a flint lock from military heritage they will ship it straight to your door even in CA because it is in a non fireable state when they ship it.
Its okay to shoot it but you will not get any accuracy. You would be way better off with a round ball, shot or even some lead split shot fishing sinkers.
try graf and son.com they usually have 1.1/2 f or 1f either of which will work in your fuse just bare in mind the hazard fee which makes it more economical to buy say 5 lbs then 1 lb
Ok thanks but my muskets from veteran arms so I could be able to use the 1f powder from there website or wait until they stocked up on the 2f and thanks for the reply 😁
I completely understand what you mean I've been shooting modern Firearms my whole life. When I got my hands on some old antique firearms. I fell in love with shooting all over again plus the history of it all
Thanks for telling us how you got so into flintlocks. They are definitely amazing firearms with some beautiful workmanship.
Yes they are
Thanks for the comment
I built a .62 caliber 38” rifled barrel and built it all from scratch. I went with a swamped barrel, a block of CM5 tiger maple wood and did all the wood carving and silver wire inlay. I was nervous as you can be, but it all turned out great and i have taken three deer with it and two hogs.
I got burned out on building custom bolt guns. Shooting and hunting with flintlocks is an adventure all in its own and I would not take for it.
I hope you enjoy as much as I do.
Great video!
Recently picked up a repro 1777 Charleville pistol. Looking forward to working with it.
All you needed for this video is your tri-corner hat! And really, you look great in those period clothes! A great video indeed and I enjoyed it much and very informative as well. I certainly understand what you’re saying about our Ancestors and so much they had to endure. Black powder gives us appreciation for our history and a far better understanding of those times. Also the power of the musket/rifle and the great art and craftsmanship that went into the making of a gun, about 300 hours I’ve been told. Understand this includes carving and engraving and blacksmithing. So much filing too! Kind Thanks and Many Blessings Friends! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
I have built 2 Investarms kits as a basis for a Custom Rifle for My specific Use. The First was a offhand percussion Target rifle with a hand tapered Barrel and Lyman Target sights with inserts and a palm rest.
From your "possibles bag", I thought you were going to pull out a half-stick of gum, like my mom would find for me from her "purse" when I got squirmy in church! Another fabulous video, thanks! I thinks I want a flintlock...
lol thanks
I want to get started in flint locks. Thanks for sharing the video.
Good luck and have fun!
Carl Gula Just do it… I got into black powder probably 30 years ago now… now I’m strictly into “smoothies” now… I hardly ever mess with my modern firearms… I’m kinda like 11bangbang the cartridge weapons have lost their allure…
Use windex with ammonia, spray immediatly after shooting to avoid spark and powder scars and to protect the finish.
I got the Bite of black powder in the 90s did not shoot them eneny Moore. Was going to sell this year . But seen video on black powder when I seen Blackie Thomes
Outstanding! I'm looking forward to this series & the Independence Day video. I got into flintlocks for both the love of firearms and history. FYI: There was some interesting research & battlefield archeology done at the "Parker's Revenge" site in Lexington several years ago. There are some videos on YT here & there if you are interested.
Thanks for the comment and the info on the archeology site. I will have to look into that. I may even have to make a video on it.
@@Real11BangBang My pleasure! I full on went down the rabbit hole on this one, found their research notes & photos online, etc. After all these years & topographical changes, it's amazing they found any musketballs, let alone volleyfire.
The baker rifle Napoleon war era ! Very cool !
You can get custom moulds made Callahan's bag molds. He can make you a .630 round ball mold.
***
Leather was used to hold the flint, so was lead, particularly in military settings. However, in the late 90's / early 2000's a few loaded trade guns were found, a long with thousands of round balls, all sung in fresh water at a waterfall. These were French trade guns. The average calibre was .58 for the round balls. Interestingly, the flints were still in the cocks. Held firmly by wool felt. Wool felt is virtually fire proof. It makes sense.
You are spot on and with regard to expensive rifles like my pendersoli you have to distress them to make them look more authentic! they should have cosmetic flaws we’re talking 18th century even then I’ll bet the rifles were a little rough especially the military rifles that they banged out to get to the troops. Out of the box you know your looking at a 21 century rifle with a Pendersoli they shoot great but need a lot of rough use IMO to make them correct or refinished to add age. Keep em coming enjoy watching them!
Yessir we will keep em coming
Thank you
This was a year ago you may not even read it but if you do you May learn something. I saw mr. Kibler use a small piece of Steel, it kind of look like a file, to sharpen a flint now of course it wasn't loaded it was a brand-new Flint but the way he demonstrated it was pretty cool. He stuck his finger under the Flint and napped it that way and that's the way I plan on napping my Flint from now on. I thought it was a pretty cool way to nap your flints but you probably got your way and it works for you so you do you and I'll do me. Can't hurt to try though.
i saw that thanks for watching
Blackie Thomas
Marty’s arms they make a .640 ball mold. I hope to be ordering one of those very soon for my 1795.
we will have to look into that thanks
Slight side note if you are going down the military route and use paper cartridges it can save on some of these items
Fun fact: The shirt comes with the gun
I shall join you on this flintlock Kool-Aid drinking adventure! Lol my first flintlock arrives in two days (Traditions Hawken 50 cal flintlock). “RAKKASAN”
Welcome aboard.
I started with a 45 caliber cva cannon you could buy from the hardware store. My buddy and I bought 45 cal. Cva derringers and proceeded to ruin all our Tonka toys! Imagine two 12 year olds blasting Tonka toys with the pistol the killed ol’ Abe.
ps: I just ordered the ‘Char’ for the history of it all!
The most common over the ball wading was 'tow' (made from flax and looks like a ball of cotton - don't use cotton it will melt). But flax smolders and can catch dry grass on fire. Could be illegal for that reason in some National Forrest's.
Rich people centuries ago might use wool cloth instead of flax, but cloth was more expensive per shot than lead or powder! Wool will not cause a fire. And these days is cheap (it's weaved by machine instead of by hand).
Cotton does not “melt”. It burns. Many pre-cut patches are cotton. Frontiersman would most likely have used leather as a patch material as cloth was expensive. Cooper describes its use in his novels. You are right about tow.
Good video
Thanks
pyrodex is not preferred, but for those who cant get traditional black powder, pyrodex will work. most of us do frown on it because it is a lesser product, but it's definitely a viable option in the absence of preferred. You are correct in that it requires strict maintenance.
it does work for caplocks however it really does not work for flintlocks. it has way to high of a flash piont. it may not flash at all and if it does it causes extreme hang fires
you have to use 3 or 4f in the pan but pyrodex works fine in the barrel@@Real11BangBang
So.. any fears or trouble getting your musket to fire when forced to drill thru the hollow area of breechplug? Seems like a long way to expect the flash of the pan to reach thru to powder charge. I plan to drill with 1/16” but fear the lenght of the touch hole getting thru barrel AND breech plug. Seems like it’ll foul shut fast.
I have a traditions 50 caliber flintlock I use the fake Pyro decks powder and I have the exact problem you just stated I have went through two different locks thinking that was the issue and hundreds of flints
Yeah those high end kits are cool but they’re expensive, the money they charge I can get a Pedersoli.
I'll be ordering my 1766 Charleville shortly! Do you have a cleaning video?
no not currently. we did have but you tube frowns on even taking flintlocks apart on camera. how ever i will say all it generally requires is hot water scrub followed by a light oil
@@Real11BangBang Thanks!
After watching some of your videos I bought a military heritage long land brown bess and it arrived over the weekend. I drilled the flash hole no problem, i ordered flints (1-1/8x 1 1/4 size like it recommended) from track of the wolf and they arrived today and I’m having issues with my flint and creating spark. A lot of the time when the flint strikes the hammer/frizzen it gets stuck about half way and does not push the hammer forward and out of the way. And it almost never makes spark although i can clearly see it making contact with the hammer. Not sure if this is being caused by the hammer spring being too stiff or maybe the surface of the hammer isn’t good? The flints seem plenty sharp and I’m doing my best to align them for a good amount of contact but maybe I’m doing something wrong lol
So a few things to check
First of all, make sure that all points of contact on the frizzen pivot screw and on the frizzen toe as well as where the pan and the lock plate meet up with the frizzen toe are all polished. Another thing is use a slow motion camera to monitor what your lock is doing. Whenever the sear is dropped a lot of times, the frizzen will actually go all the way down and bounce back. This is what is known as a rebound and will look like it only went halfway. As for not getting Sparks you may have to re-harden your frizzen I have done this before and have a video on this subject. The best way to test it is to use a file. If the file skates over the frizzen then it is at correct hardness. If it leaves gouges and begins to remove material, it is too soft. Also, if a frizzen is too soft, sometimes the Flint cuts too deep into the steel and causes the frizzen to not open all the way
Hope this helps
Caleb made his debute! Lol.
Unintentionally lol
You forgot that you also need to have yourself a pistol, haha!😂
that is a 1777 charleville,,the 66 does not have the band springs
It's a 66 or technically 66/68.
I have a whole video on the subject
czcams.com/video/LFoxb18rU2U/video.html
Sir I have the 1766 charleville as havent drilled my vent hole yet and I’m wondering what size touch hole liner you suggest getting for it? Thank you
Go with the smallest you can first. And that away. If you mess up you can always work your way up. I get mine from the log cabin shop
I would love to get back into it but in The California Bay Area its hard to find anyone who has black powder, Caps , Flints , kits, complete guns etc. its as if we have gone back to the stone age.
That's why I've taken to making my own ammunition. For Flintlocks I cast my own projectiles I make my own powder and I knap my own flints
You can order stuff online through the Internet, but in the communist state of California any muzzleloader will still have to be delivered to an FFL, not sure about the black powder whether you can have that delivered or not, knowing California probably not, good luck!
Glad I fled that communist state 10 years ago, should’ve done it long before that.
Im also in the bay area and you can get it all shipped here, that’s what i did. Some stores have cap n ball supplies but Ive yet to find any flint lock supplies which is why i went to the internet. If you order a flint lock from military heritage they will ship it straight to your door even in CA because it is in a non fireable state when they ship it.
Hi 11bangbang, is it ok to shoot a .69 caliber minie ball out of a military heritage musket?
Its okay to shoot it but you will not get any accuracy. You would be way better off with a round ball, shot or even some lead split shot fishing sinkers.
What thread size is your Charleville ram rod?
I'm not sure the exact thread pitch, but it is the same thread pitch as track of the wolf's worms for the 1766
Hey is there anyway I could find 2f black powder I need some for my fuse de chase
try graf and son.com they usually have 1.1/2 f or 1f either of which will work in your fuse just bare in mind the hazard fee which makes it more economical to buy say 5 lbs then 1 lb
Ok thanks but my muskets from veteran arms so I could be able to use the 1f powder from there website or wait until they stocked up on the 2f and thanks for the reply 😁
Haha, I tried to use Triple 7 in a flintlock once. ONCE. 🤣 Never again!
lol
Man, you need to do something different besides sitting behind bench and talking
Check out my other videos. I do a lot of shooting too