Remove salt build up Yamaha outboard 40hp block head restoration Challenge get motor running 30 50
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- čas přidán 2. 05. 2024
- Salt build up can cause water blockages & engine overheating in all outboard motors. It can be worse if motor is left for longer periods without running, & especially if the motor isn't flushed for long enough (eg 5-10 minutes) to allow thermostat to open, & the cylinder / head to be flushed of salty water & filled with clean water while not in use) This is my challenge to see if i can get a motor running that has been classed as non viable to repair.
I also show how the water cooling system works throughout the cylinder & head & how outboards hold water while they aren't in use.
30hp 40hp 50hp 60hp 70hp 90 hp
Happy boating! 😃
#yamaha #yamahaoutboard #enginerebuild #rebuild #maintenance #boatmaintenance - Sport
Well done. Nice to see blokes having a go instead of just buying new, saving themselves money and learning at the same time
Yes so true, thanks Neil 😀
Walking us through the water flow inside the engine head was GREAT! Thank you for your research and the effort you put into this excellent instructional, educational and entertaining video!
Thank you! 😃😃😃
Man, what a great way to start of my day. Excellent video. I subscribed right away. Done thorough and done right with very good commentary.
thanks mate! You're the best! 😀
I had a 90 same year I ran it in a 50 gal tank mixed an acid solution and water it cleaned it right up engine runs to this day!
Excellent, informative video. Being a Yamaha 2 stroke triple fan, I learned a lot. Thanks.
thanks! Yes they are great motors! 😃
good work mate thanks heaps.
It’s great the manufacturers support a full range of spare parts, despite the unviable economics of commercial deep maintenance.
Nice! Did you take off side cover as well to inspect ?
Hi mate this is a great video i have a 40hp bit older than yours but i did the same thing only i stripped it right down ,cleaned the block and head and cover with CLR and like you wire brushes fitted new rings honed the bore new gaskets in carbs new gaskets through out new coils ect basically rebuilt the engine , yamaha say to run your engine for a min of 15 minutes as you say to let it get up to temp and the thermo to open , in the end with mine i upgraded to a fourstroke but it will help many others who a mech has told "throw it in the bin" it is a two stroke engine really an oversized lawn mower and with out cams and valves ect easy to work on again great video .
so true! Thanks mate! Yep the 2 smokers are the bomb to work on, & they rev like a 4 stroke can only dream about! Enjoy & thanks for the message! 😀
One thing the mechanic where i get my yammy serviced mentioned was that many don't flush the motor long enough - he said a minimum of 5 minutes . I have always used the same procedure on every motor i have owned - start it and let it run until the thermostat housing gets hot( i can see the flow from the prop hub has increased so i know the thermostat is open ) turn on the saltaway flush unit , disconnect the fuel line and run it until the motor starts to miss and shut it all off . Not sure how good the salt flush stuff is but it does take salt off better than fresh water - would love to see the water jacket of an engine that has used this stuff from day one to see if it really does stop salt build up .
Yes so true, a good 5 or more mins if motor is still fairly warm... longer if it's cooled right down before flushing.. but as you say, the tell is the warm water out the prop outlet for a good while! I'm sure the salt products do help remove surface build up, but they can't do heavily compacted rock hard salt blockages.. It's hard enough with power tools!! 🤣😭😎
Excellent video, great content and tutorial
thanks! you're the best! 😄
Awesome work!!
Thanks mate! 😀
Hey brother, nice show, it identifies everything im showing guys..lol.. to cool. I have 3 episodes. Ep1 I just posted on this,,, I love the word challenge. so I found a product and a way to make the inside of the engine completely free of build up. episode 1 is a test of SALT AWAY AGAINST RYDLYME AND RYDLYME REALLY WORKS, IT DESTROYS SALTAWAY, THEN EP2 IS HOW TO BUILD A SELF CONTAINED FLUSH SYSTEM FOR UNDER $150. Just remove thermostats AND ANODES IF THEY HAVE THEM turn the pump on and FLUSH, this is the cool part, the product is measured in PH, so you can run it on the pump until what goes in for PH as a clean fresh cleaner comes out clean as it went in because when it breaks down build up it raises the PH..If a motor like your was on this set up, doesn't need to run the engine just then pump as long as the PH is rising is eating away at scaling and everything else, I am confident it would work. I really want to find another engine like that to do this test. If you watch my EPISODE 3 HOW TO FLUSH WITH Rydlyme you will see how I do It and maybe test to. let me know if want a link, not trying to post on your stuff, just like your videos it is so relative to mine. And you said challenge. lol
I can tell you from my experience that sadly most of my customers don't give a flying f**k about paying for this service - until it's too late and they have to pay way way more to get a replacement engine. I do this to my own engines mostly
So true, yes it's far better to do periodic maintenance even if its a more costly service once every 5 years or so (head off & clean/new gaskets etc)... 😃😃😃
Excellent, might have to do my 30, cheers
and make a video
Yes go for it!! Thank you! 😃😃😃
Awesome have a 25 SJ yamaha need to do the same thing too
It's a 1986
oooh! 1986! i just hope you don't break any bolts getting it apart! That is the challenge! 😀
That was a really good video mate.
Thanks mate!
This is just the inspiration I needed. I have a Yamaha V6 150 two stroke that's overheating and I'm pretty sure the water channels have _never_ been cleaned. I called mechanics and at 125.00 per hour for such a _simple_ repair is absolutely preposterous. This is _not_ that difficult of a job to do. The _only_ issue is whether you can get the bolts out without them breaking, because if they break it's not going to be easy to get them out. If all the bolts come out then it really is just a matter of cleaning and clearing, and putting it all back together.
cleaning the water jackets in the block really shouldn't ever be needed if the motor is flushed with fresh water and tilted fully DOWN when stored. i have 40+ year old salt water motors that look just fine inside. the japanese motors have always been bad with corrosion, though. great reliable motors... horrible corrosion issues that never really got solved.
Bolts can be a huge challenge and a 3 day process to remove without breaking.
1. use a torch to heat bolt to pumpkin red. Let it cool.
2. Strike bolt with a few stiff hits. This will send a bit of a shock through the bolt and corrosion.
3. Use a socket to test if the bolt will budge any. If so, work it clockwise and counterclockwise about 1/16th of an inch
4. Spray the bolt with PB Blast very liberally and let it sit overnight.
5. Repeat steps above as many times as it takes until it breaks free.
DO NOT rush the process. I have removed many severely corroded bolts from saltwater motors. If the bolt does break, DO NOT use those Easy Outs! Use a tiny drill bit to drill a hole through the center and progressively use bigger bits until you can collapse the walls of the bolt.
Upon reassembly, anti seize is your friend!
@@michaelh7527 well said. only issue is heat: many places on the motor you need to be careful as there are oil seals, o-rings etc you dont want heat radiating too. but yeah head bolts, pan screws etc just fine
If I remember my metallurgy correctly a carbon steel wire brush should not be used on aluminum, at minimum it should be made of stainless steel. Otherwise dissimilar metals corrosion can be a problem.
I always take my boat on a long freshwater lake cruise at least once per year. I hope it's actually as beneficial as my brain thinks it is.
haha! Im sure it does in some way!! 😃😃😃
woow what a good feeling after done all that clean up at to have that peace of mind even you catch more fish hahahah
oh it sure is! 😃😃😃
How much did you pay for the motor before the work was done?
Nice video, thank you.
Question ; Yamaha 250 ox 66. When I get back to the dock and hook up a hose to the engine flush hose , if the thermostats are closed , where does the water go ? which part of the engine is not getting fresh water to? thanks
Hi! Generally if it's still cold & thermostats are still closed, or they are faulty & not opening, it wont cycle the water in the blocks, so the water can overheat the engine then... The water will still always flow out the tell tale outlet.. Don't be deceived in thinking it is operating cooling water through engine, just because it flows out the tell tale visible outlet/spout... this is why full inspection & removal of heads is important if you suspect a problem internally like my video shows.. Hope that helps! 😃😃😃
Bloody legend mate! Made it look doable as I am in the same situation with a Johnson 110hp (86 model). Marine Shop said its not worth fixing! Any other tips before I give this ago. Worried it may also need be machined too. Subbed!
Hey awesome thanks mate! Yes biggest issue on older models is if you start breaking every bolt when taking the head off etc... If you do, it's beyond repair.. but the thing is, you can begin, and give it a go right?! Will be best to hold off buying gaskets & parts until it is apart so you don't lose those dollars if its not repairable... Hope that helps! 🤑🤑🤑😀😀😀
@@mikemike7523 Cheer buddy, will give it a crack after NY, I assume doing both sides since its a V4 setup is preferable. Will report back in a few weeks :)
@@kostiz for sure, yes i'd be doing both as you'll need to clean it all not just a half job.. you'll know by the time you attempt to remove both heads if its even worth continuing.. It's an old motor, so you could be lucky and get it apart smooth, but possibly not.. if its in really good condition, then its worth throwing a few $ at it, if you get to the rebuild stage.. If you can do a good job, & if you can get another 3-5yrs of use from it would be worth it hey 😃
Well produced video, clearly spoken and informative. Yamaha engines are pretty stout. So you'd say the bulk of your time was just spent doing a thorough clean, something that shops wouldn't do unless you paid them well for it? It didn't look like difficult work, just time consuming! 🙂
Hey thanks for that! Yes that's pretty true! Time & $$$🤑🤑🤑
Don’t worry about breaking bolts. There’s lots of instructions on utube for fixing the issues arising. You should have drills and taps at hand beforehand, they’re cheap and at the least all the threads should be chased clean before reassembly. Thread repair kits are now cheap on line too, so don’t worry.
You cannot begrudge the mechanic charge out rate, if he can do the job well, he (she) is well worth double. Sadly and happily the new smaller engines are so cheap it’s simply not economic to maintain an engine to this level. I do it only to keep a 2002 two stroker going as the equivalent four stroke is nearly twice the weight.
breaking steel screws in aluminum is a nightmare. every try doing 6 in a row? its not practical, and a machine shop will charge you $50 a screw. better to find another block sometimes. unless its a labor of love.
It isn't worth it for a shop to do that kind of good job, but that does not mean the motor is junk. If you've got the time and the knowhow, or know someone that is willing to do it at their leisure, most of these motors can be saved. I shudder to think of how many good motors were scrapped because someone said its not worth it.
So true 😄
Just a tip when you're torquing head bolts never do the full spec at once do it in 2 stages
Scared tapping method, 2/3 ‘s in, half out pop, and hopefully the brushing dint rip off coating, argghhhh
hello, nice video... congratulations... the thing that terrifies me the most is breaking the screws that fix the cylinder head, I saw that you only broke one. my engine seems to have the perfect cooling circuit or anyway working but doing a compression test it only gives me 65 psi in all three cylinders. but it doesn't seem that bad to me. this is the test video.
czcams.com/video/5aSwCPgxx9A/video.html
Thanks mate! yes if you break lots of bolts, then bin it! 🤣🤣65psi could be worn rings, but could also be corroded head gasket on all cylinders maybe? enjoy! 😀😀😀
Also some cheaper compression testers will read roughly 30 psi low you might have around 95 in each could be the tester I’d check it again with a higher quality one
How did you repair the hole at the bottom of the block?. I have the same issue with my 50hp Yamaha. Thanks
Hey! Yes there can be holes form after a few years... If its accessible to TIG weld or is worth the effort to remove block from the mounts to access, then do that.. I used liquid steel 2 part mix. Its strong, holds extremely well.. If the area is cleaned up well first it can be a good permanent fix. The key is good preparation. The water pressure is a minimal positive pressure, (unlike a car radiator / needing to withstand high KPA pressure), so the repair doesn't have to be pressure critical. Hope that helps 😃😃😃
Excellent clip! Would you please tell me which parts that need to replace when performing this job? I'm about to follow yours to clean up my 90hp Yamaha 3 cylinders. Thanks.
Hey Victor, main thing is the full engine gasket kit.. apart from that, just normal service things like thermostat if its due/needed.. It's mostly chiseling out any hard salt build up, so mostly cleaning & put back together unless you break head bolts getting the head off.. if you break a few, the engine is probably not worth trying to go further unless you really know what you're doing to drill & tap bigger head bolts in... but broken head bolts being high tensile stainless, are extremely hard to drill out... I'd probably say if you break more than one, dont bother.. Outboard engines have a relatively short life once they get to that point where bolts no longer undo.. Hope that helps! 😃😃😃
@@mikemike7523 thank your for your advice. That's why I really hesitate to do this job 😀
Yes, best to try unbolt before buying any parts! 🤣🤣🤣
Did you ever think about ultrasonic cleaners?
Hi! There are other ways of cleaning, but when the corrosion & salt build up is so compact, manual & mechanical removal is pretty much the only way... 😃😃😃
I would have put rags in the cylinders. Then salt and dirt do not end up there or find their way into the crankcase. Am I wrong?Otherwise a very good video. Thanks .
Maybe you should also tape over the cylinders?
not the crank case, but the rings will surely get some grit. i completely agree. cringed a bit. stuff a rag and some grease around the outside, then just wipe off. no grit.
@@ct1762 Thanks so much. Appreciate your reply.
I would have used white vinegar to dissolve the salt
Best to run the motor until tell-tale water is warm so thermostat is open then flush with a product like Salt-Away, Salt-Stop, Salty Captain or many others. Prevention is better than cure! Nice recondition job though!
yes & thank you! Just to clarify to others, the tell tail isn't warm because its cycled through the block & thermostat, as is often thought.. really need to check that good supply of warm is coming out the prop/exhaust.. as that is the only water that is actually cycled through the block/head & thermostat 😀😀😀
@@mikemike7523 ok good to know cheers that was my impression.
Didn't know you can crank it without the cover 😮 so is it all the starters job?
hi! sorry, is what the starters job?
Sorry I mean is it just the starter spinning the flywheel the whole time? Obviously with the cover off didn't know you can do that.. that was my question
i love seeing this, when mechanics turn there nose up so you say f0ck you hold my beer ill do it myself..... welldone mate you earned this one.
Thanks mate! 😃🍺🚤🚤🚤
Why not boil, blast and machine?
What is the difference between the new 40hp enduro 2 cylinder?
Hey! Not sure how new you mean, the latest current new models are 4 stroke 3 cylinder.. Maybe you mean the 2 stroke 2 cylinder enduro a few years old still? (pre 2020) If so, they are very similar to this setup.. just a bit more simple being only twin cylinder.. Hope that helps 😃😃😃
In malaysia we have 2 stroke yamaha outboard named yamaha enduro, but the 40hp only have 2 cylinder, rather than your version which is 3 cylinder, just wanna how different it would have in sea water
@@firdausfazil1666 Yes we also have the 40 enduro 2 cylinder in Australia, up until a few years ago when 4 stroke became the only new option to buy. The enduro 2 cylinder is the cheaper version but still a very good motor. The 3 cylinder is a bit nicer to use as it has a smoother idle & rev range with the extra cylinder. It was a bit more to buy, roughly $1500 more for the extra benefits... As far as rebuild, they are very similar, so the job is the same to service.. hope that helps 😃
@@mikemike7523 thanks you mike, im planning to buy 22 feet fibreglass boat with centre console, what type and length of boat you run the yahama 40hp? Btw, if you ever come to malaysia maybe we could go fishing together.
@@firdausfazil1666 The 22ft (6-7m) fibreglass boat would be a bit big for a 40hp i think, unless you just putt around a bay in it.. a 40hp in Australia is normally seen behind a 4-5m aluminium light boat & it will perform well & get the boat planing easily.. A boat 6-7m fibreglass heavy hull would normally have anything from 100-200hp behind it so it can get up to planing speeds easily... Happy fishing!! 😃
Hello guys, I bought a boat with an old Yamaha outboard 2-stroke engine built in 1983 50HP Model: 6F4 and I can't find a parts list or repair instructions. This engine is not listed anywhere. I'm desperate, someone please help me. Thanks in advance
oh wow! 1983!! That is in my perspective, a man cave ornament. not sure if you'll find parts for it now as well which reinforces my idea of what you should do with it unfortunately, if it needs any internal work! So sorry i can't offer the help you need 😃 😃 😃
Could you use a 3,000 or 4,000 pressure washer??
unfortunately after years of build up, you need to drill & chisel the rock solid salt!
@@mikemike7523 could laying motor horizontal, cylinders up, head off, then filling block with a mixture of boiling hot water properly mixed with RYDLYME and soak for several days, then rinse under pressure better clean out unreachable passages etc…?
After first manually removing heavy deposits that are accessible of course. Also if one does rinse religiously for 10-15 minutes after using keep engine block clean enough that deposits don’t form, or is it cumulative over time regardless….just at a much slower rate?
Lastly if cumulative even after rinsing properly, how often would be good to flush with RYDLYME, or other flush additives, before resorting to head removal, thermostat removal etc..?
@@incognito5986 I really think that manually cleaning is the only way to stop it when using in salt water.. the flush additives only seem to give a minimal amount of help.. I've seen a lot of motors still salt up over time.. The main thing that makes it worse is the time they sit without use with the water inside the cylinder block/heads.. I think (as i mentioned in the video) if you use in salt water, I'd remove heads at 10-15 years as a major service.. Re-grease all the bolts when refitting to stop them locking up over time.. If you leave it too long, corrosion & salt finds it way into the bolt thread areas as it slowly work past all the gaskets..you'll break every bolt & the motor will be worthless then..😭😢😢😢
Hope that helps!
🤓🧐
@@mikemike7523 watch the RYDLYME videos youtube. It seems to work decently.
Yea I’m a huge fan of “never seize” but I’m not sure which flavor on aluminum heads with steel bolts if they are steel.
Do you flush your motor after using it?
Yes always flush, but even if you do, when using in salt water, they still build up salt deposits over time..😭
@@mikemike7523 yea that’s true, i live in the Netherlands so we don’t have a lot of saltwater here. My engine is always used in freshwater
Is she still staying cool?
Yes it is! 😃😃😃
My two cents say's the block requires resurfacing. I don't know, I am not an expert.
Makes me think maybe run the motor for a minute after flush with no water to push final bit out? What are your thoughts on this?
Don't think that's a good idea Bill, they need full water pressure while running at operating Temp so they don't overheat, & once the water pressure falls, there is no thrust to push any water from the block. The water pump cycles water in the block/head but it would simply stop all water movement once the water pump has no water. Hope that helps 😀
@@mikemike7523 Makes sense Thanks
outboards unfortunately are a very flawed system, especially in saltwater.
I have a 40enduro 2005
oh yes very nice motor too... the twin cylinder, bit lighter, both motors get you where you want to be just fine! The triple cylinder is just a little smoother running & idle... happy boating & spearfishing! 😃
@@mikemike7523 it came crank so am trying to convert it to electrical switch
@@KevinTheDiveKidd i wish you success with that! it will be awesome!
I'm now paranoid of running in saltwater
hahaha! just flush for ages! 😂
140 hours!!!! 😳😳😳. Christ…did they never flush it?!?!?
yes, but may be not for long enough to open the thermostat & then long periods of time between use.. no good hey.. 😭😭😭
Those cylinder compressions weren’t that great. Should be around 125 psi .
if its not kept in the fully down position, water can definitely stay in the block. so many people leave their motors tilted all the way back for the winter... ice loves that. but the issue here is some complete idiot didn't flush this poor thing out with fresh water before letting it sit for a decade.
Yamaha is junk.
No manufacturer can withstand lack of maintenance.