5hp Briggs & Stratton Roto Tiller revival.
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2022
- 5hp Briggs & Stratton Roto Tiller revival.
You can also check out my Copart damaged 2013 Ford Raptor DIY driveway frame swap series beginning with Part 1 at the link below.
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If you want to see some of my other content, I rebuilt an old Lincoln WeldanPower 150 welder/generator or a barn find 1929 Model A rebuild. Please click the links below to start seeing those episodes.
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• 1929 Ford Model A Rebu...
#EasySimpleMechanic #ModelA #FordModelARebuild #ModelARebuild #ModelAAssembly #LincolnWeldanPower #GameFisher3.0 #F150Raptor - Jak na to + styl
Thanks for the video. I’m working on an old generator with a 5hp Briggs and your vid helped a lot. I’m all about getting this old equipment repaired and put back into good use. Very fulfilling.
Thank you for taking the time for this.I was pacing together this exact model/and was missing everything. Real big help on showing the setup. Take care.
Thank you for sharing your work with us, I have a Turf Til from ‘76 with the exact same setup and 5hp Briggs. Seeing how everything went together was invaluable!
Thanks. I appreciate you watching and commenting on my videos...😀
I like the way you show it
Thank you for Watching and commenting on the channel.😁😁🙏🙏
I Hear A Kickass Crazy Train!!!🛤
Congrats - the one handed tiller! I was surprised it started up and ran without replacing the diaphragm seal
Thanks for watching. I did have to replace the diaphragm later when it came in.
Nice work
Just finished restoring a tiller of the same vintage, maybe a bit older. Mine is a '71.
Three lessons learned:
1. Removing and replacing the lower carb bolt is hard to do using a wrench. I found it much easier and faster to use a small slot head screwdriver. You jam it sideways into the slots cut into the bolt head. This let's you turn the bolt about 90 degrees (4 slots) per slot. This worked great. Some smart Briggs Engineer put those slots in these bolts for this purpose.
2. Cleaning out the fuel tank: My tank was badly gunked up with old dry fuel and lots of corrosion from alcohol laden fuel. The water separates from the gasoline overtime.
I rinsed the tank out with clean gasoline to start. I threw a handful of nuts and heavy screws in to agitate the fuel and scrape off the junk. This worked great and exposed the rust.
I then mixed up a 15% by weight citric acid solution. You can buy citric acid powder on Amazon and at many grocery stores.
I filled the tank up a bit past the level where the rust ended and again threw a handful of 3/8 & 1/4" nuts and heavy screws (the sharp edges will clean out the rust pits). I let the solution work for an hour or two and agitated the tank to get the nuts and bolts the help clean things up. This took 3 sessions to get the tank to be rust free. I washed out the tank with Pine Sol, rinsed with very hot water and then fogged the tank interior with wd40. It turned out great.
3. It's really not worth rebuilding these carbs. The alcohol and water corroded them internally. You can buy a brand new carb for $30 on Amazon. They work great.
Thanks for watching my video. All good points. I thought I would get it running with its original carb because I don't use it very often. I have used the nuts, washers and screws on motorcycle gas tanks before. It works great...
You got it running.
White, western auto is all the same and we’re very popular
Most of the ones I find just need carb rebuild and tank cleaning
Some times have to sand point contact
Oil change and it’s ready to work
Good video. I'm working on the same motor and tiller, but my tiller is a firestone.
My briggs is a 1971.
I try and educate myself before to help same some time and money and pick up what I can from those who have time invested.
I just picked up this tiller, I see on the control panel you have a pull knob, I'm assuming it's for the choke? Video is still early. You may address
No. It isn't the choke. At some point, the throttle cable was replaced with an after market cable. It was stuck due to rust so I needed to do some work on the cable to free it up. Thanks for watching....😀
excelente video amigo tengo una máquina casi igual bere si puedo arreglarla
Hi, interesting BS video, what is that pipe for? goes from engine to the side of carburator, approx 4-5 inches long? I learned much from you video, thanks. mvh sverre eriksen Trondheim Norway.
It's a 1980 model. First 2 numbers of the code establishes the year make
Thanks for the information, for watching my videos and for commenting..😊😊😊
Hola tengo una máquina igual pero nose mantiene LLA le cambié el carburador pero solo arranca mientras le pongo starflu y se apaga
Gracias por ver mis videos y comentar. Si ese es el caso, quiere decir que no le esta entrando la gasolina. Puede ser que este tapado el tubo que va del carburador al tanque de gasolina o que tenga fuga de aire y no permita que jale la gasolina para arriba al carburador del tanque. Esos carburadores no tienen flotador, así que no es eso. También asegura que este puesto el choke mientras enciende y se calienta el motor. El mio no enciende sin el choke y envases se abre solo con las vibraciones después de encender. Espero esto le ayude...Gracias😀
Should of replaced diaphragm seal.
I think it's a 1980,I seen real fast
That's a replacement Biggs,
That's not the original motor,
The serial number sticker on the side always comes on the replacement motors,An that dark Grey almost black color,
Ir the copper color ones,
Thanks for watching my videos. You may be right. Another viewer indicated that based on the serial number, that it was a seventies model but I am not Briggs expert so I will leave that to you all...Thanks for the information and comment...Subscribing would really help me out.😁😄😃😀
1980 model
Thanks for the information, for watching my videos and for commenting..😊😊😊