late but i recently bought a turbo brz that was ran pretty hard. i drove it 1000 miles home (not my brightest idea but whatever) and i had no issues with it aside from a loose wheel. so long as you drive it well, it should be alright. just make sure you have some money set aside in case something does happen. edit: car makes 310whp, 295 lb/ft torque and 12psi.
1. Stay to 10 psi and a proper tune with no knock and it won't happen. 2. Run a oil and water cooled turbo and it won't elevate oil temps as bad on track. 5w30 amsoil full synthetic is definitely what a turbo needs. 3. Coil paks are known to be a consumable, don't need the newer ones and aftermarket is not worth it. Just keep new ones handy and have a boost cut when ignition misses happen. 4. Again stay at 300 hp / 10 psi and this is never gonna be an issue. 5. I floor it all the time at 10 psi 70000 km on boost and I wot to redlines all the time. Disagree completely and I think it just adds up to going well past that 300hp/235 ft lbs torque that all these problems show up. Yes the 2.0l on boost has limits and I think you just blew past them with everything you want to do with the car but if you stick to 300hp at 10psi it can go a long time. Mines a 2012 and still going and all I lost was some coil packs (8 years till finally lost one) and the throwout bearing.
@@bottom_lizard192 thanks for trolling on a thread about "should 86's be boosted or not", i have no issues with honda k motors and honestly before i picked up the frs which had 2+2 seating for me to be able to pick up the kids in a pinch as a daily driver i was looking at an s2000. obviously i ruled that out for the seating factor. with the different design of the k motors i wouldn't doubt that same boost pressure on say a k20c would probably edge out the fa20. but after buying the car with 22k km on it for 19k and paying 5k for a turbo kit that was fun to put in, i'd rather keep the low center of gravity of the fa20 boxer engine then swap in a k motor. i saved my energy for doing a swap by putting an ls1 into my 88 porsche 944S that is now a 948. Point is, even if a k motor on boost edges out an FA20 on boost, it doesn't negate the fact that boosting a 2800 lb canyon carver with a 4 cylinder boxer motor for lower center of gravity is not wrong. the block handles boost quite well up to 10psi which was the point of my comment on a video that argued you shouldn't. at no time was the OP video or my comment about a this or that on what's better in terms of what motor to begin with.
I am on a second motor boosted 86. I love it. I would agree w him on ignotion upgrades and injectors as well as clutch and rear axles. Beyond those which i would classify as preparation mods prior to boost its a blast
I have forged pistons that are stock compression. I’m only pushing 15 psi max right now, so overkill. As far as an oil cooler, I went with the AVO one (I do have an AVO turbo) which has a duct that goes by the radiator and it fits behind that fog light. You can still duct it. I also have the same tires.
after watching donut media's high low and money pit series I have an idea that putting a turbo in any car isnt that easy. but seriously kudos to the folks willing and able to properly prep and install a turbo in their 86.
I have never liked the 86 Turbo setup where the Intake tube (After the Intercooler) runs right over the hot side of the turbo. Your setup is the first one that I've seen where someone has attempted to mitigate this by wrapping the intake AND the turbo. I wonder what the temp on that intake tube is after some hard runs.
Thought about buying one of these cars to take to the track so I can keep my M4 Competition in good shape.. I had no idea this car was so turbo averse. Thank you for saving me 25k.
@@Alex-ns3kn good question, I don’t know that I have a satisfactory answer for you lol. I think it’s that I really don’t want to tear up the outside also if I don’t abuse it I don’t have to do much more than oil changes tires and regular maintenance? I really enjoy it as a fun car around town and highway pulls, if I ever decide to sell it I will get more than I put into it if I take care of it. See non satisfactory lol
Nice video man, just bought myself a white 2014 GTS and plan on boosting it next year sometime. Car is a DD that will be skidded from time to time, looking at the 3071r SME kit, any thoughts? I don't think i'd be satisfied if i was NA FBO and E85 - My logic for the 3071r is boost coming in later (which i don't mind at all) potentially being less stress for the stock rods.
See how you go on an E85 flash tune, if you are local to Brisbane I know a good guy! If you plan to do a bit of skidding i would highly recommend N/A as oil temps are an issue with sliding, even on mine (turbo with oil cooler) they’ll quickly and easily hit 100c while skidding. If you want to go turbo I think going a bigger turbo can help a little however it’s mainly up to the tuner and how they control how the boost comes on. Sadly, not every tuner is created equally and it’s hard Atleast where I live to find a good one who are well rehearsed on FA20’s
@@AngusOutram I'm just a little eh on spending the money on FBO and then having to spend it all again if i change my mind (i come from a high hp Silvia and 135i background) But cheers i appreciate the indepth reply, keep the videos rollin - from a fellow CZcamsr!
Ow20 oil, the W stands for Winter not Weight. The first number refers to the cold or winter viscosity, so the lower the number the better it flows when cold.
I’m in Brisbane! I’ve heard of a few guys who make the trek up from NSW to The86Shop for mechanical. I’m saying that though I’ve only heard good things about PVS but never dealt with them myself!
Hey man I live in Brisbane and was initially looking at getting a 1994 mr2 turbo but I’m not gearing towards an 86 . Excluding cosmetics how much did all of the turbo and the additional necessities as part of the turbo did you spend ? I Any recommendations to go to in brissy ?
How are you getting on with it now? Thinking of doing the turbo but I’m getting good/bad responses and don’t actually know what’s true as I’m not looking to make too much power, probably 280-300 at a push
You gotta spend money if you gonna make big boy power. The biggest thing with going boost in general is sufficient cooling to perform. You have two of the cheapest cooling mods available that perform sub-part at best--the Mishimoto oil cooler and Verus hood vents. You should've went with Greddy or Jackson Racing oil cooler at minimum along with the Trackspec hood vents. Getting quality oil such as Motul 300V or equivalent in the factory weight will go more than whatever bandaids you got going on for cooling. Then dial your power expectations back and find a competent tuner who can provide failsafes. You also don't need a whole new engine harness if you got the Okada plasma coil packs. Clutch and axels are recommended if you are making lots of torque. End of day the hard cap on this platform is the transmission and things fail above 300TQ.
Hey man, thanks for the comment! Just to clear some of the points you made: I have a PWR oil cooler with a mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate, both are proven to perform and be reliable, so wouldn’t be contributing to my heat issues. Verus conduct a lot of RND to ensure their products perform and have a large customer base who can attest to their quality :) The car has always had Motul oil and the upgrade to the newer engine harness was due to issues which irregularly occurred with early 2012 models (in USA there is a recall for this). And clutches/driveshafts are almost essential if you plan to use a 200TW tyre or lower, some people seem to get away with these if they run cheaper tyres/don’t drive them too hard. I hope this helps if you are planning on building your own 86/BRZ!
Did you track it? 5w40 is recommended for track because after 100° every 10° drops the oil rating by 10, I E. 120° would make it 5w20. Check MCMs turbo build for that info
I haven't seen mine go over 110c even on track. If I was consistently getting over 120c I would first recommend getting an oil cooler and only after that I would consider a 0w-30 or 0w-40. it's really all up for personal preference however I live in a very hot climate and don't see oil temps exceeding what they are manufactured to handle
Great video mate! Only suggestion is maybe taking more time to perfect your shots, rather than rushing them. Take some time to layout what you want to communicate to the audience and then shoot it until you’re happy. Otherwise, a great thanks to you for this video. This will definitely help with my build.
@@AngusOutram No worries! Always here to help. I’m glad you recognise the positive criticism man. Flick me a message if you need anything. 👍🏼 [@thebuildof86]
From my experience and this definitely isn't everyone's usually the motor is safe up until 350whp unless it was something that made the motor blow like he said failing coilpacks or something like that. I have not had an issue with boosted 86s theres a group of us where I live and its pretty sustainable. For anything beyond the 350 hp mark definitely go with lower compression pistons and forged rods to be safe id say a 9 or 10 to 1 ratio is your best bet because remember its still a boxer so you gotta watch out for those head gaskets blowing out unexpectedly. (thanks subaru) there are things that can help mitigate the head gasket failure such as sleeving which helps alot. Crawford performance has a motor that can handle 600hp pretty reliably. Definitely upgrading the cv's and axles should be a go to once you go boosted and definitely upgrade your fuel system as well. Most of the gripes I've heard is really just making sure you have the supporting mods that help with boosted applications which is to be expected or at least should be. Just do your research and make sure you have everything you need and happy building 😊
Hey man, thanks for the comment! Yeah definitely, there's a lot of moving parts in a motor and every single one of them is prone to failing at one point or another. Also Subaru's QC isn't known to be the best so that can play a huge factor into it as well. With the FA20 platform I haven't yet seen people with failing head gaskets. Also if you can keep the compression high, 100% do it. I run straight E85, so I kept the 12.5 compression pistons, I have plans to go a forged 13.5:1 Piston eventually. the higher compression helps with response and spooling the turbo, and if you have a knock resistant fuel there's no reason to lower compression.
It does well from 300-325 tbh. Like its a spot where you can get more power while retaining the handling of the car, yk, its main purpose. a correct turbo tune will help maximize this car
@@lizettevillaneda4817 absolutely even without forced induction just doing unequal length headers and a tune will totally change how the car feels but more than anything first I'd definitely recommend doing lightweight wheels good sticky tires and coilovers will give you the most for your butt Dyno.
I can't find a complete turbo kit for my 2020 Subaru BRZ Limited 😭 I don't want a lot of power. Maybe do like 5psi because I just want a little extra power and the sound that it comes with, without hurting my engine.
Any turbo kit will suit your application if you don’t want to push it too hard! I would recommend a bigger sized turbo so it doesn’t spool as fast - this helps take pressure off the rods at low rpm
Have you upgraded radiator? this should help with the engine temperature along with the oil cooler. I'm still going ahead with turbocharging my 86 (going for full build with lower compression (should allow for more boost)). Yes I know it will be an endless money pit
The OEM radiator is proven to be plenty sufficient for this level of power, I would look into an aftermarket when the car starts hitting track more often and the plastic end tanks of the OEM ones start to fatigue
My friends thought I would blow my motor when I turbo my car lmao. They would make fun of me and shit but its lasted longer than their cars and still running like a champ. To be fair it's a weekend fun car so I've only put like 6k miles in 2 years lmao.. but I showed them
That's so many things broken. I have at too many examples where 375hp isn't breaking anything and definitely, my NA didn't break anything. But I agree that a proper tuner is important to make sure your engine doesn't blow. But what I want to ask you is how do you define beating up your car. I only give my car some revs to redline probably not more than a few times every drive and I'd consider that a beating (I don't track my car at all).
Every dyno in this world reads differently so it's really hard to compare an exact figure. Having a tuner who is good and knows the limitations of the FA20 platform is the most important thing in my opinion. I would probably only call it "thrashing" a car if the car is in a situation where it is constantly at about 100c oil temps. That's just my personal definition though :)
Just buy a beater frs with a lot of miles and a decent interior for like 6-7k, then save up 25-30k and ls3 swap it, keeps it the same weight basically, 400-450whp and tq, and the sound is better than a little 4 banger, that’s what I plan on doing
Each to their own! I would have bought a car that had a v8 already if I wanted a V8. I enjoy the rev happy nature of the FA20 and the added surge from boost is addicting
now to just Find one in SA from under 20k with manual trans. prefer the 86 pack over the brz pack at the moment i only have the option of maybe 2 cars in Colour and Price Range... and that is for 2013 models too.
@@Aearonjer yeah the only issue is the Flu is causing me to go hmm can i can not get in and out... plus this time of year my job wont let me takes days off so would literally have to drive to and from almost on the same day for the car as well. not a lot of time to test drive and give it a go over and make sure if i buy it i can register it in SA as well.
@@Aearonjer tempted to go buy this one. but dont know what the Tasteful mods full extent is too.. www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2012-toyota-86-gt-manual/SSE-AD-6923123/?Cr=15
@@sirphoenixknight3567 Transported mine in from Subaru Mentone in Victoria (using CEVA transport), had to wait until they lifted lockdown to send it, Victoria has stricter rego than SA. Delivered it to my house, didn't have to go anywhere. had the Victorian RWC as well so rego should'nt be a problem.
Yeah I sure did! I really wanted a centrifugal supercharger at one point however I didn’t go for it because the added torque from the supercharger is addicting haha
Just bought the HKS turbo kit and oil cooler and you made me second guess really hard after the last point. I do enjoy being able to floor it to 7krpm.
@@loveever89 I've had an sti and 2 evos believe me I know nothing compares to boost. But I live in a rainy city and the brz breaks loose a lot as it is.
@@nigeljoycey5644 yes they do as they are rwd. It’s fun in an open parking lot though but daily driving a boosted 86 back to back years ago, sometime you just wish it was an awd lol.
@@loveever89 not just the rwd but also the LSD, it locks up super easy which I love. Im just sayin I think for me personally boost would only really be worth it in the summer since I live in Vancouver and we get a lot of rain. Also it is kind of refreshing having an n/a car cause boost always bring anxiety for me monitoring all the conditions and recording logs n shit
that's why you don't turbo a standard brz over 4 - 500hp without upgrading everything else to support the power you are wanting to push out lol. this can easily scare someone out of putting turbo's on there brz. you can safely stage 1 turbo add on your factory brz engine on a psi of around 7 / 8 safely without snapping rods or anything else but as long as you upgrade all the supports u can safely raise ur boost a bit but these engines arent made for massive psi full blown turbo setups on stock engine lol your better off building a long block and doing all the things u need to it from scratch like most high powered turbo setups require. but on these engines add ons with a lower psi are a safe option for a daily turbo brz option
Used to have a turbo fr-s. Kept psi under 12 and never had an issue. Added oil cooler. Don't lower the car too much it makes the rear axle worse. I had eibach sport lines your luck may vary. Great info, great video
@@AngusOutram I should add I had a 2013. I didn't know I was more suspectible to issues but I only drove it about 10k miles it was my weekend/fun car for several years. Sbd kit/tuned by shiv
So what you’re saying is that you shouldn’t turbo a stock car… which you shouldn’t do anyway??? Isn’t a turbo kit the last thing you do on any car after having fully built it?
I agree, but easier said than done unfortunately. I pulled the plug and built mine in the end but it’s by no means a cheap, quick or easy exercise to do so.
I’ve been on track in it once, would love to go more but it just hasn’t worked out for me yet. Hopefully with everything sorted now, when it cools down early next year (our summers are very hard on cars on track) I’ll 100% be going out to set some PB’s. I’ll do a full video series on chasing some lap times so definitely make sure you sub if you want to see that :)
You can definitely save costs if you go for a smaller turbo and plan to make less power. I went with the GTX2867r so it's adequately sized for the 12.5:1 Compression FA20 (i'll start maxing out this turbo soon around 400whp)
@@AngusOutram for the brz with its compression rate 💯 the best way to go. Not as fun but still gives you the power you want and the ability to brag that your brz is “boosted” haha
@@AngusOutram 285 wheel horse power would equate to 380 horsepower no? since roughly 25% is lost... and from what @Archer2111 was saying, anything above 350 usually results in engine failure right...? could we say this was expected?
so far so good for my stock engine 86 with an sme turbo kit. Running on 10 psi and making 220kw 330nm on 98. got it tuned at gotitrex and been turboed for like 2k kms now. hope my rods stay in
W is winter rating, not weight 😉 Also, your axles shouldn't be breaking so much. Is your suspension too low? Having the axles not aligned straight will hasten their wear and lead to breaking.
Yes winter, it's cold rating at 0 degree celsius. OEM axels will break from constant skidding etc on semi slick tyres N/A and even more so with the added turbo power. I've since upgraded to The86Shop axels and had no issues since!
"Why not to turbo your motor... if your going to do it half ass and not put the proper work or build into it" "However if you build it properly it's great" Any tuner worth a damn will tell you that just slapping on a turbo is not the answer
I think the FA20 is inherently a bit more sensitive than other known stout engines such as K24’s. Lots of people have success with very basic turbo builds on FA20’s and others don’t. The overview I gave is a bit of a worst case scenario of what can happen :)
If you wanna stay under 300hp you can turbo the brz/frs and have no issues at all besides wear and tear of parts. Going over the 300hp mark and or tracking the car frequently is where you are going to run into issues and have shit break. It’s fully possible to turbo the car and daily drive it and have minimal issues. As long as you maintain it and don’t drive like an asshole for hours and hours. And the 300hp mark…. You don’t need to hit that. The car weighs 2800lbs, adding 60 to 80 hp will not only change the way the car drives and feels, it will contend with other models in its class. Don’t let this video deter you from you FI dreams!
Depends what supercharger you go, if you go centrifugal it can help mitigate load on the rods as they inherently make less torque. Oil temps, coilpacks and axels can still be a weak point however, but easily upgradable!
Not that bad! depends on what you want to do while you’re in there though. I did everything I could, apart from pistons so it cost me a bit, but could have done it a lot cheaper
@@Nigruto7 You’ll be fine motor wise around that power figure. If you can take it to a tuner who knows the FA20 engine well and they will make it extra safe for you
Good to know, I’m personally doing cosmetic mods only on my 2020 brz I’ll the engine blows which obviously won’t happen for a while so I’ll have enough time to save up for an ls when the time comes
I'd recommend an E85 tune or if you stuck to a centrifugal supercharger youd keep the reliability without a lot of the hassles (and less chance for a tuner to stuff it up on you!)
These are all problems that are commonly known by anybody who actually knows the platform, You have to pay to play. Building a Well balanced car is never as easy as just throwing a turbo on it.
Supercharge instead. Delivers constant higher torque than stock. I have the Sprintex 210 SPS installed for quite some time now and I can only say “do it”! Very safe, predictable power gain across the rev range. It’s awesome! No need for rebuild. 👍😀
I do enjoy the Sprintex kit myself! I drove one recently and it was awesome how it delivered the power. Personally I think i'd go for the centrifugal style supercharger just so I can have some blow off valve noises still :)
Not necessarily, I am a strong believer that it is more up to the tuner (software) to limit torque than the actual parts on the car (hardware) As long as you use a tuner who knows what they are actually doing and have a strong track record on 86’s you’ll be fine
400hp with hopefully a little bit more left in it, update on reliability coming soon! Just waiting to get the car back from a workshop so I can continue filming
Complete waste of my time! Turbo Frs and Brz are amazing.... it’s all in the tuning! I had an Frs boosted for years and nothing else besides pump, injectors, and e85 and put 4 maps down. 8psi,13,18,21psi. Very fun car...
Oh that sounds awesome! that’s a lot of PSI for a stock bottom end. What turbo were you running and who tuned it? 100% agree a good tuner makes the biggest difference on this platform!
@@AngusOutram Fa20club kit and tuned by Toni. Never had a problem with tuning. I forgot to add I had a clutch. Lol!! Stock motor, bottom end. And it was also DD, hard at that fact. I love going fast and my power to weight was amazing in this car.
I respectfully disagree, the motor is structurally weak. The brz/86 is all about the platform not the motor. Also, I do not believe you really did turn up the boost and map for 21lbs and you didn't Chuck a rod.
@@cynthiakauffman8809 czcams.com/video/esxsQyU7cds/video.html this was pretty much my map 3 before we unlocked more fuel in my map 4. Brandon in the video and Dan and myself were always around the same power
All of this is nothing minus the rods. Basically, if you want lots of boost from a turbo, it's a full engine rebuild with aftermarket rods; which every other upgrade is a small price to pay in comparison.
Correct, it’s replacing the internal parts which have shown to be weak under a turbo application. Which actually is amazing at 300rwkw. I could have replaced more for sure, but I didn’t want to sacrifice longevity
Maybe an AVO or Greddy kit might suit your goals? Honestly it’s still going to be an expensive task and at that point it would be cheaper to get into something else turbo where you don’t have to worry about pushing this one too hard without all the proper supporting mods
If you drive a positive displacement supercharged brz 86 ( edelbrock harrop etc ) you will never look at getting a turbo. Its day and night difference and a trillion times more not even close end of debate. Do it then see for yourself
They aren’t actually too bad! Weak synchro’s will cause the gears to shred but once you fix that issue the gear thickness is actually similar size to STI 6 speed stuff
Coilpacks can cause misfires which can cause a lot of vibration internally, this can cause more than just rod bolts to wear with time. If you want to talk to me about any experiences you’ve had message me on Instagram! @angusoutram
I already knew about everything you said, still want a turbo 86🗿
Ping! Pop! Bang! Kaput.
Yessirrr
late but i recently bought a turbo brz that was ran pretty hard. i drove it 1000 miles home (not my brightest idea but whatever) and i had no issues with it aside from a loose wheel. so long as you drive it well, it should be alright. just make sure you have some money set aside in case something does happen.
edit: car makes 310whp, 295 lb/ft torque and 12psi.
@@qhost4839 curious what octane you running?
@@qhost4839 how’s it holding up after 5 months?
1. Stay to 10 psi and a proper tune with no knock and it won't happen.
2. Run a oil and water cooled turbo and it won't elevate oil temps as bad on track. 5w30 amsoil full synthetic is definitely what a turbo needs.
3. Coil paks are known to be a consumable, don't need the newer ones and aftermarket is not worth it. Just keep new ones handy and have a boost cut when ignition misses happen.
4. Again stay at 300 hp / 10 psi and this is never gonna be an issue.
5. I floor it all the time at 10 psi 70000 km on boost and I wot to redlines all the time.
Disagree completely and I think it just adds up to going well past that 300hp/235 ft lbs torque that all these problems show up. Yes the 2.0l on boost has limits and I think you just blew past them with everything you want to do with the car but if you stick to 300hp at 10psi it can go a long time. Mines a 2012 and still going and all I lost was some coil packs (8 years till finally lost one) and the throwout bearing.
Put all that you said on a 2.0 Honda k series and none of you boosted frs/brz fake ae86 will ever catch up with the SAME mods
@@bottom_lizard192 thanks for trolling on a thread about "should 86's be boosted or not", i have no issues with honda k motors and honestly before i picked up the frs which had 2+2 seating for me to be able to pick up the kids in a pinch as a daily driver i was looking at an s2000. obviously i ruled that out for the seating factor. with the different design of the k motors i wouldn't doubt that same boost pressure on say a k20c would probably edge out the fa20. but after buying the car with 22k km on it for 19k and paying 5k for a turbo kit that was fun to put in, i'd rather keep the low center of gravity of the fa20 boxer engine then swap in a k motor.
i saved my energy for doing a swap by putting an ls1 into my 88 porsche 944S that is now a 948.
Point is, even if a k motor on boost edges out an FA20 on boost, it doesn't negate the fact that boosting a 2800 lb canyon carver with a 4 cylinder boxer motor for lower center of gravity is not wrong. the block handles boost quite well up to 10psi which was the point of my comment on a video that argued you shouldn't. at no time was the OP video or my comment about a this or that on what's better in terms of what motor to begin with.
I am on a second motor boosted 86. I love it. I would agree w him on ignotion upgrades and injectors as well as clutch and rear axles. Beyond those which i would classify as preparation mods prior to boost its a blast
Number 5 is what I think about the most after turbocharging my FRS. Had to adapt my driving style with the extra power in the corners.
Feather throttle in the corners exits?
@@Carlos.Rivera I have footage of how I progressed while driving my build on the track (stop by)
Very informative. This video gave me a better idea of how I want to build the car and keep driving it reliably. Thank you for the video.
Thank you! I will definitely keep the informative information coming!
So informative!! Can’t wait for next video
So the key is to blow the original and then drop a turbo K series in it... jokes aside this is good to know.
Hahaha that is an option I really heavily considered! Maybe if I ever have issues with the FA again I might do it 🤣
I appreciate this as someone interested in boosting there frs!
Thank you! I will be doing a 5 reasons you should turbo your FRS soon so make sure to be subbed to see that when I upload it :)
I love flooring mine and I don’t get a speeding ticket whilst doing so. Non turbo is awesome
I agree. I can only go but so fast on the street till I stand out and get pulled over.
I have forged pistons that are stock compression. I’m only pushing 15 psi max right now, so overkill. As far as an oil cooler, I went with the AVO one (I do have an AVO turbo) which has a duct that goes by the radiator and it fits behind that fog light. You can still duct it. I also have the same tires.
Sounds like our setup is fairly similar!
after watching donut media's high low and money pit series I have an idea that putting a turbo in any car isnt that easy. but seriously kudos to the folks willing and able to properly prep and install a turbo in their 86.
very informative.... i will just leave my 86 as is for now so i can beat on the stock engine without any problem
Interesting tips, keep up the good work!
Thank you 🙌🏼
I have never liked the 86 Turbo setup where the Intake tube (After the Intercooler) runs right over the hot side of the turbo. Your setup is the first one that I've seen where someone has attempted to mitigate this by wrapping the intake AND the turbo. I wonder what the temp on that intake tube is after some hard runs.
My IAT’s are usually 5-10c degrees above ambient temperature when moving, read at the AFM sensor. All the heat wrap actually does an amazing job
Thought about buying one of these cars to take to the track so I can keep my M4 Competition in good shape.. I had no idea this car was so turbo averse. Thank you for saving me 25k.
If you kept it N/A you’d have a blast for cheap!
Why would you buy an m4 competition and not drive it like its an m4 competition?
@@Alex-ns3kn good question, I don’t know that I have a satisfactory answer for you lol. I think it’s that I really don’t want to tear up the outside also if I don’t abuse it I don’t have to do much more than oil changes tires and regular maintenance? I really enjoy it as a fun car around town and highway pulls, if I ever decide to sell it I will get more than I put into it if I take care of it.
See non satisfactory lol
@@sickvendetta9 Satisfactory because you were honest haha
Nice video man, just bought myself a white 2014 GTS and plan on boosting it next year sometime. Car is a DD that will be skidded from time to time, looking at the 3071r SME kit, any thoughts? I don't think i'd be satisfied if i was NA FBO and E85 - My logic for the 3071r is boost coming in later (which i don't mind at all) potentially being less stress for the stock rods.
See how you go on an E85 flash tune, if you are local to Brisbane I know a good guy! If you plan to do a bit of skidding i would highly recommend N/A as oil temps are an issue with sliding, even on mine (turbo with oil cooler) they’ll quickly and easily hit 100c while skidding. If you want to go turbo I think going a bigger turbo can help a little however it’s mainly up to the tuner and how they control how the boost comes on. Sadly, not every tuner is created equally and it’s hard Atleast where I live to find a good one who are well rehearsed on FA20’s
@@AngusOutram I'm just a little eh on spending the money on FBO and then having to spend it all again if i change my mind (i come from a high hp Silvia and 135i background) But cheers i appreciate the indepth reply, keep the videos rollin - from a fellow CZcamsr!
Ok, non Australian here - what do you mean by skidding? Drifting, handbrake turns? i've only ever done skids on my bicycles and underpants...
W stands for winter not wait. ✌🏻auto text lol “weight” is what I meant to say.
Ow20 oil, the W stands for Winter not Weight.
The first number refers to the cold or winter viscosity, so the lower the number the better it flows when cold.
Where in Australia are you located? That 86 shop sounded really nice! I hope they have good shops in Sydney
I’m in Brisbane! I’ve heard of a few guys who make the trek up from NSW to The86Shop for mechanical. I’m saying that though I’ve only heard good things about PVS but never dealt with them myself!
Turbo 86 gives off Itsuki energy
Hey man I live in Brisbane and was initially looking at getting a 1994 mr2 turbo but I’m not gearing towards an 86 . Excluding cosmetics how much did all of the turbo and the additional necessities as part of the turbo did you spend ? I
Any recommendations to go to in brissy ?
Nice video, here in 🇬🇧 Uk running at 5 psi majority of lads and lasses with no issues they say it’s the safest any higher psi you may get in trouble
How are you getting on with it now? Thinking of doing the turbo but I’m getting good/bad responses and don’t actually know what’s true as I’m not looking to make too much power, probably 280-300 at a push
All these years people still laugh at how slow the 86 was then and now. Gotta love what Toyota was after. Staying true
You gotta spend money if you gonna make big boy power. The biggest thing with going boost in general is sufficient cooling to perform. You have two of the cheapest cooling mods available that perform sub-part at best--the Mishimoto oil cooler and Verus hood vents. You should've went with Greddy or Jackson Racing oil cooler at minimum along with the Trackspec hood vents. Getting quality oil such as Motul 300V or equivalent in the factory weight will go more than whatever bandaids you got going on for cooling. Then dial your power expectations back and find a competent tuner who can provide failsafes. You also don't need a whole new engine harness if you got the Okada plasma coil packs. Clutch and axels are recommended if you are making lots of torque. End of day the hard cap on this platform is the transmission and things fail above 300TQ.
Hey man, thanks for the comment! Just to clear some of the points you made: I have a PWR oil cooler with a mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate, both are proven to perform and be reliable, so wouldn’t be contributing to my heat issues. Verus conduct a lot of RND to ensure their products perform and have a large customer base who can attest to their quality :) The car has always had Motul oil and the upgrade to the newer engine harness was due to issues which irregularly occurred with early 2012 models (in USA there is a recall for this). And clutches/driveshafts are almost essential if you plan to use a 200TW tyre or lower, some people seem to get away with these if they run cheaper tyres/don’t drive them too hard. I hope this helps if you are planning on building your own 86/BRZ!
Did you track it? 5w40 is recommended for track because after 100° every 10° drops the oil rating by 10, I E. 120° would make it 5w20. Check MCMs turbo build for that info
I haven't seen mine go over 110c even on track. If I was consistently getting over 120c I would first recommend getting an oil cooler and only after that I would consider a 0w-30 or 0w-40. it's really all up for personal preference however I live in a very hot climate and don't see oil temps exceeding what they are manufactured to handle
Great video mate! Only suggestion is maybe taking more time to perfect your shots, rather than rushing them. Take some time to layout what you want to communicate to the audience and then shoot it until you’re happy. Otherwise, a great thanks to you for this video. This will definitely help with my build.
Thanks for the feedback man! I definitely am learning as I go and will take this on board :)
@@AngusOutram No worries! Always here to help. I’m glad you recognise the positive criticism man. Flick me a message if you need anything. 👍🏼
[@thebuildof86]
From my experience and this definitely isn't everyone's usually the motor is safe up until 350whp unless it was something that made the motor blow like he said failing coilpacks or something like that. I have not had an issue with boosted 86s theres a group of us where I live and its pretty sustainable. For anything beyond the 350 hp mark definitely go with lower compression pistons and forged rods to be safe id say a 9 or 10 to 1 ratio is your best bet because remember its still a boxer so you gotta watch out for those head gaskets blowing out unexpectedly. (thanks subaru) there are things that can help mitigate the head gasket failure such as sleeving which helps alot. Crawford performance has a motor that can handle 600hp pretty reliably. Definitely upgrading the cv's and axles should be a go to once you go boosted and definitely upgrade your fuel system as well. Most of the gripes I've heard is really just making sure you have the supporting mods that help with boosted applications which is to be expected or at least should be. Just do your research and make sure you have everything you need and happy building 😊
Hey man, thanks for the comment! Yeah definitely, there's a lot of moving parts in a motor and every single one of them is prone to failing at one point or another. Also Subaru's QC isn't known to be the best so that can play a huge factor into it as well. With the FA20 platform I haven't yet seen people with failing head gaskets. Also if you can keep the compression high, 100% do it. I run straight E85, so I kept the 12.5 compression pistons, I have plans to go a forged 13.5:1 Piston eventually. the higher compression helps with response and spooling the turbo, and if you have a knock resistant fuel there's no reason to lower compression.
It does well from 300-325 tbh. Like its a spot where you can get more power while retaining the handling of the car, yk, its main purpose. a correct turbo tune will help maximize this car
I’m currently looking to buy a 2015 86 and modifi it do you think they are worth it can it handle more horse power if I add more to it
@@lizettevillaneda4817 absolutely even without forced induction just doing unequal length headers and a tune will totally change how the car feels but more than anything first I'd definitely recommend doing lightweight wheels good sticky tires and coilovers will give you the most for your butt Dyno.
So my suspension won’t pop or anything right I can add atleast 200 hp to it ?
Who's your tuner? Beautiful build btw!
So far it's tuned by the same company who built the motor (The86Shop)
He should rename this video too top things to get when you turbo your car
I can't find a complete turbo kit for my 2020 Subaru BRZ Limited 😭 I don't want a lot of power. Maybe do like 5psi because I just want a little extra power and the sound that it comes with, without hurting my engine.
Any turbo kit will suit your application if you don’t want to push it too hard! I would recommend a bigger sized turbo so it doesn’t spool as fast - this helps take pressure off the rods at low rpm
Great informative video, but the sheer amount of cutscenes were a bit disconcerting 🤷♂️
Have you upgraded radiator? this should help with the engine temperature along with the oil cooler. I'm still going ahead with turbocharging my 86 (going for full build with lower compression (should allow for more boost)). Yes I know it will be an endless money pit
The OEM radiator is proven to be plenty sufficient for this level of power, I would look into an aftermarket when the car starts hitting track more often and the plastic end tanks of the OEM ones start to fatigue
My friends thought I would blow my motor when I turbo my car lmao. They would make fun of me and shit but its lasted longer than their cars and still running like a champ. To be fair it's a weekend fun car so I've only put like 6k miles in 2 years lmao.. but I showed them
That's awesome to hear! I'm keen to get mine back soon and start ripping on it!
So basically all important parts are too weak... :D You should more info in the description box, like how much hp you make with this set up
Mainly just the connecting rods are too weak! The rest seems to hold up well to mild boost/power levels (
Can you tell me your wheel spec and suspension setup?
Wheels are 17x9+35 and suspension is MCA coilovers. Awesome set up!
Most of this is stuff u already have to do regardless of the car most cars aren’t meant to handle boost.
Exactly 🥱 you would do this to most engines anyways
I still want this so bad.
That's so many things broken. I have at too many examples where 375hp isn't breaking anything and definitely, my NA didn't break anything. But I agree that a proper tuner is important to make sure your engine doesn't blow.
But what I want to ask you is how do you define beating up your car. I only give my car some revs to redline probably not more than a few times every drive and I'd consider that a beating (I don't track my car at all).
Every dyno in this world reads differently so it's really hard to compare an exact figure. Having a tuner who is good and knows the limitations of the FA20 platform is the most important thing in my opinion.
I would probably only call it "thrashing" a car if the car is in a situation where it is constantly at about 100c oil temps. That's just my personal definition though :)
Just buy a beater frs with a lot of miles and a decent interior for like 6-7k, then save up 25-30k and ls3 swap it, keeps it the same weight basically, 400-450whp and tq, and the sound is better than a little 4 banger, that’s what I plan on doing
Sound may be better yes, however the sound a LS3 makes is a lot different than the sounds of JDM and Euro engines, which is a whole market in itself.
Each to their own! I would have bought a car that had a v8 already if I wanted a V8. I enjoy the rev happy nature of the FA20 and the added surge from boost is addicting
Jacob- what you're really saying is, buy a manual v8 mustang.......
Getting a ls3 legal in an 86 in Australia would be a complete pain in the ass.
youre ending every damn sentence with a high voice and its driving my crazy
now to just Find one in SA from under 20k with manual trans. prefer the 86 pack over the brz pack at the moment i only have the option of maybe 2 cars in Colour and Price Range... and that is for 2013 models too.
Can't go wrong either way! I hope the purchase goes well!
Got mine from Victoria, too expensive in S.A.
@@Aearonjer yeah the only issue is the Flu is causing me to go hmm can i can not get in and out... plus this time of year my job wont let me takes days off so would literally have to drive to and from almost on the same day for the car as well. not a lot of time to test drive and give it a go over and make sure if i buy it i can register it in SA as well.
@@Aearonjer tempted to go buy this one. but dont know what the Tasteful mods full extent is too..
www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2012-toyota-86-gt-manual/SSE-AD-6923123/?Cr=15
@@sirphoenixknight3567 Transported mine in from Subaru Mentone in Victoria (using CEVA transport), had to wait until they lifted lockdown to send it, Victoria has stricter rego than SA. Delivered it to my house, didn't have to go anywhere. had the Victorian RWC as well so rego should'nt be a problem.
What about the drive feel and all the engine grunt from the stock N/A engine?
Did you lose it after turbocharging?
It’s tuned in a linear fashion so as to try to keep that fun nature of the car. It’s just as fun with the turbo though!
Likin the El-Zed merch!
Good info...Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Did you ever consider a supercharger instead and if so what made you go with the turbo instead ? Would really like to know!
Yeah I sure did! I really wanted a centrifugal supercharger at one point however I didn’t go for it because the added torque from the supercharger is addicting haha
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Just bought the HKS turbo kit and oil cooler and you made me second guess really hard after the last point. I do enjoy being able to floor it to 7krpm.
Just have to be a little more cautious, but boost is worth it !
Definitely still worth it!
Just get a good tune, don’t drive it super rough 24/7 you’ll be fine.
Awesome video
Great video! But I still can't wait to turbo the 86, or supercharger it 😄
Turbo it!!!!
i think ill just stick with uel headers and a tune unless im gonna build the motor
Boring
Missing out on the fun.
@@loveever89 I've had an sti and 2 evos believe me I know nothing compares to boost. But I live in a rainy city and the brz breaks loose a lot as it is.
@@nigeljoycey5644 yes they do as they are rwd. It’s fun in an open parking lot though but daily driving a boosted 86 back to back years ago, sometime you just wish it was an awd lol.
@@loveever89 not just the rwd but also the LSD, it locks up super easy which I love. Im just sayin I think for me personally boost would only really be worth it in the summer since I live in Vancouver and we get a lot of rain. Also it is kind of refreshing having an n/a car cause boost always bring anxiety for me monitoring all the conditions and recording logs n shit
12.5:1 compression is super high for a boosted car
Ethanol and Direct injection for the win!
that's why you don't turbo a standard brz over 4 - 500hp without upgrading everything else to support the power you are wanting to push out lol. this can easily scare someone out of putting turbo's on there brz. you can safely stage 1 turbo add on your factory brz engine on a psi of around 7 / 8 safely without snapping rods or anything else but as long as you upgrade all the supports u can safely raise ur boost a bit but these engines arent made for massive psi full blown turbo setups on stock engine lol your better off building a long block and doing all the things u need to it from scratch like most high powered turbo setups require. but on these engines add ons with a lower psi are a safe option for a daily turbo brz option
Used to have a turbo fr-s. Kept psi under 12 and never had an issue. Added oil cooler. Don't lower the car too much it makes the rear axle worse. I had eibach sport lines your luck may vary. Great info, great video
Yeah it seems hit and miss with these motors!
@@AngusOutram I should add I had a 2013. I didn't know I was more suspectible to issues but I only drove it about 10k miles it was my weekend/fun car for several years. Sbd kit/tuned by shiv
So what you’re saying is that you shouldn’t turbo a stock car… which you shouldn’t do anyway??? Isn’t a turbo kit the last thing you do on any car after having fully built it?
do alot of these issues still apply to the 2017+ model brzs?
Yeah, sadly they do :(
Honestly. If your gonna have the motor out and boost it. Go ahead and build everything on it to be able to handle the power
I agree, but easier said than done unfortunately. I pulled the plug and built mine in the end but it’s by no means a cheap, quick or easy exercise to do so.
Do you track the car a lot? Sounds like you've had some pretty bad luck.
I’ve been on track in it once, would love to go more but it just hasn’t worked out for me yet. Hopefully with everything sorted now, when it cools down early next year (our summers are very hard on cars on track) I’ll 100% be going out to set some PB’s. I’ll do a full video series on chasing some lap times so definitely make sure you sub if you want to see that :)
do u have a big turbo and what do u need to change if u just go for a little turbocharger which will get u 300 HP in total?
You can definitely save costs if you go for a smaller turbo and plan to make less power. I went with the GTX2867r so it's adequately sized for the 12.5:1 Compression FA20 (i'll start maxing out this turbo soon around 400whp)
@@AngusOutram and u changed a lot so the Turbo won t rip the engine I meant can u keep most stock with 300hp or need to change also a lot ?
How much boost you pushing ? I’ve got a 2020 I’m trying to run a reliable 300 hp on. No more than maybe 6 psi
I believe on the stock engine I was at about 8si making 280hp, I could be wrong. Now I’m at 14psi
Simple solution go supercharger :) had mine installed since 9k miles. Currently at 116k with 0 issues beside normal maintenance
That’s the easy way out! Haha nah I would love to do it, they seem like the reliable option for the FA20
@@AngusOutram for the brz with its compression rate 💯 the best way to go. Not as fun but still gives you the power you want and the ability to brag that your brz is “boosted” haha
What sc setup do you use and what power does it make? It must be quite a setup
how much lbs of boost/power were u pushing before the motor blew up the first time?
It was 9 PSI at 213RWKW so 285RWHP
So not much 😂 was meant to be a safe tune
How much torque were you making?
I think it was around 300nm. I can’t recall the exact figure off the top of my head
@@AngusOutram From when did your torque really started to climb?
@@AngusOutram 285 wheel horse power would equate to 380 horsepower no? since roughly 25% is lost... and from what @Archer2111 was saying, anything above 350 usually results in engine failure right...? could we say this was expected?
so far so good for my stock engine 86 with an sme turbo kit. Running on 10 psi and making 220kw 330nm on 98. got it tuned at gotitrex and been turboed for like 2k kms now. hope my rods stay in
How’s it holding up
@@apn79 so far so good, having lots of fun. Just out e85 in for first time and pushing 290kw
W is winter rating, not weight 😉
Also, your axles shouldn't be breaking so much. Is your suspension too low? Having the axles not aligned straight will hasten their wear and lead to breaking.
Yes winter, it's cold rating at 0 degree celsius. OEM axels will break from constant skidding etc on semi slick tyres N/A and even more so with the added turbo power. I've since upgraded to The86Shop axels and had no issues since!
@@AngusOutram I'm still on factory axles so I will let you know if I experience trouble with mine.
"Why not to turbo your motor... if your going to do it half ass and not put the proper work or build into it" "However if you build it properly it's great" Any tuner worth a damn will tell you that just slapping on a turbo is not the answer
I think the FA20 is inherently a bit more sensitive than other known stout engines such as K24’s. Lots of people have success with very basic turbo builds on FA20’s and others don’t. The overview I gave is a bit of a worst case scenario of what can happen :)
If you wanna stay under 300hp you can turbo the brz/frs and have no issues at all besides wear and tear of parts. Going over the 300hp mark and or tracking the car frequently is where you are going to run into issues and have shit break. It’s fully possible to turbo the car and daily drive it and have minimal issues. As long as you maintain it and don’t drive like an asshole for hours and hours. And the 300hp mark…. You don’t need to hit that. The car weighs 2800lbs, adding 60 to 80 hp will not only change the way the car drives and feels, it will contend with other models in its class. Don’t let this video deter you from you FI dreams!
Lucky for you engine lost oil pressure before buying a turbo ayy
what about superchargers?
Depends what supercharger you go, if you go centrifugal it can help mitigate load on the rods as they inherently make less torque. Oil temps, coilpacks and axels can still be a weak point however, but easily upgradable!
@@AngusOutram ok thanks man
Hi, how much was it to upgrade your rods?
Not that bad! depends on what you want to do while you’re in there though. I did everything I could, apart from pistons so it cost me a bit, but could have done it a lot cheaper
Angus Outram I’m in Melbourne and I’m turbocharging very soon. I’m not sure if I should build my engine since I’m only aiming for around 250-275hp
@@Nigruto7 You’ll be fine motor wise around that power figure. If you can take it to a tuner who knows the FA20 engine well and they will make it extra safe for you
5 things I tell myself to cope with the fact that I can't afford to turbo my car
Good to know, I’m personally doing cosmetic mods only on my 2020 brz I’ll the engine blows which obviously won’t happen for a while so I’ll have enough time to save up for an ls when the time comes
I'd recommend an E85 tune or if you stuck to a centrifugal supercharger youd keep the reliability without a lot of the hassles (and less chance for a tuner to stuff it up on you!)
They’re called supporting mods, lol. Thought this was common sense for most people….
Shhhyyut up!!
I'm gonna have to say i disagree with the thermostatic oil cooler ... as I've seen multiple greedy failures causing engines needing to be replaced
I have the Mishimoto thermostatic plate. 2 years in and no issues with it!
I’m the dumbass who decided to twin charge a FA20 and blow thousands of dollars
What is the figment on the brz/86 on the video cover?
17x9+35 with a 255/40/17 tyre
I just realized I follow you on Ig and thx for the information
Thank you for checking out the channel! Heaps more content to come!
These are all problems that are commonly known by anybody who actually knows the platform, You have to pay to play. Building a Well balanced car is never as easy as just throwing a turbo on it.
Unless it’s a Honda lol
Supercharge instead. Delivers constant higher torque than stock. I have the Sprintex 210 SPS installed for quite some time now and I can only say “do it”! Very safe, predictable power gain across the rev range. It’s awesome! No need for rebuild. 👍😀
I do enjoy the Sprintex kit myself! I drove one recently and it was awesome how it delivered the power. Personally I think i'd go for the centrifugal style supercharger just so I can have some blow off valve noises still :)
@@AngusOutram I hear you man! 😀 Still... the SC whine at higher revs is pretty awesome too! 👍😀
How much psi are you pushing? Cause the fa20 should handle 8psi with no issue
It was on 8psi when it blew the stock motor so most likely tuner related, pushing 17psi now!
@@AngusOutram so you think it was a tuner issue instead of the actual turbo?
@@drewmosier5475 That’s what I’ve been lead to believe yeah, a rod bolt sheared which isn’t too common in FA20’s to my knowledge
How much power u were making when your rods broke
210wkw, so under 300hp
Angus Outram damn I do need rods bc I’m going to install my sbd 500x turbo kit but I can’t
Not necessarily, I am a strong believer that it is more up to the tuner (software) to limit torque than the actual parts on the car (hardware)
As long as you use a tuner who knows what they are actually doing and have a strong track record on 86’s you’ll be fine
Angus Outram so your saying if he doesn’t limit the torque dip it would eventually break but if he does limit it won’t brakes
The tuner just needs to limit boost under 5,000 RPM effectively and ramp boost up linearly.
What year is your car?
It’s a 2012 :)
Hm horsepower you running ? It’s been realible ?
400hp with hopefully a little bit more left in it, update on reliability coming soon! Just waiting to get the car back from a workshop so I can continue filming
Idc I AM PUTTING A LS3 IN MY CAR WITH A HUGE TURBO
🤣 that would be insane!
Holy cow cant you film a full sentence without cutting your video clip?
It’s really hard to do a one take, props to the people that can do it 😂
Isnt the 86 shop in brissy?
Yeah sure is!
Complete waste of my time! Turbo Frs and Brz are amazing.... it’s all in the tuning! I had an Frs boosted for years and nothing else besides pump, injectors, and e85 and put 4 maps down. 8psi,13,18,21psi. Very fun car...
Oh that sounds awesome! that’s a lot of PSI for a stock bottom end. What turbo were you running and who tuned it? 100% agree a good tuner makes the biggest difference on this platform!
@@AngusOutram Fa20club kit and tuned by Toni. Never had a problem with tuning. I forgot to add I had a clutch. Lol!! Stock motor, bottom end. And it was also DD, hard at that fact. I love going fast and my power to weight was amazing in this car.
I respectfully disagree, the motor is structurally weak. The brz/86 is all about the platform not the motor. Also, I do not believe you really did turn up the boost and map for 21lbs and you didn't Chuck a rod.
@@cynthiakauffman8809 czcams.com/video/esxsQyU7cds/video.html this was pretty much my map 3 before we unlocked more fuel in my map 4. Brandon in the video and Dan and myself were always around the same power
Probably a show car
All of this is nothing minus the rods. Basically, if you want lots of boost from a turbo, it's a full engine rebuild with aftermarket rods; which every other upgrade is a small price to pay in comparison.
Correct, it’s replacing the internal parts which have shown to be weak under a turbo application. Which actually is amazing at 300rwkw. I could have replaced more for sure, but I didn’t want to sacrifice longevity
Swap for a sti engine or go 1jz
Easier said than done 😢
Thanks for wasting $10k+ so that I don't have to. Is there any kind of a small turbo that will still work reliably without replacing all that stuff?
Maybe an AVO or Greddy kit might suit your goals? Honestly it’s still going to be an expensive task and at that point it would be cheaper to get into something else turbo where you don’t have to worry about pushing this one too hard without all the proper supporting mods
so is swapping the engine w a ka20 the answer
Lol basically said the car just isn’t built for power... I have a 2015 frs for 2 years now.
Nahh. I wont boost mine. Id still lose a drag race against all the 5300000 chargers in my area anyway 😂
LS swap? haha
@@AngusOutram
If money grew on trees yes!
Sooo i need put two turbos i think
Or a supercharger and turbocharger? 😂
If you drive a positive displacement supercharged brz 86 ( edelbrock harrop etc ) you will never look at getting a turbo. Its day and night difference and a trillion times more not even close end of debate. Do it then see for yourself
I’m guessing you’re running high psi and that’s why you’re having so many problems?
Rehoning the deck??
Brand new block :) I believe it was honed though, But was brand new!
Is nobody going to mention the tinfoil transmission that our cars come with? Lol
They aren’t actually too bad! Weak synchro’s will cause the gears to shred but once you fix that issue the gear thickness is actually similar size to STI 6 speed stuff
Coil pack caused a broken rod bolt 😂😂 You’re bullshitting us or Jeffcott is bullshitting you. Knowing Jeffcott, he’s probably bullshitting you.
Coilpacks can cause misfires which can cause a lot of vibration internally, this can cause more than just rod bolts to wear with time. If you want to talk to me about any experiences you’ve had message me on Instagram! @angusoutram
1 solution. LS swap it
While I love an LS swap, K24 would be the one for me!