Electrified Garage: Tesla Model S Gen 1 DC/DC 6009170-00-J Fuse Check and Replacement
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- čas přidán 20. 03. 2020
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In this video, You will be shown how to check for blow fuses and how to replace them in a Gen 1 Model S DC/DC unit 6009170-00-J.
Fuse part # FWP-40A14Fa
The DC/DC is a common failure item where you will either lose heat or air conditioning.
If you lose heat then the PTC heater has shorted internally and will need to be replaced at the same time otherwise the fuse will blow again.
For the air conditioning it usually is drawing too much amperage for short period of time. Typically there isn't anything wrong with the compressor you just need to replace the fuse and put it back together. The car uses the air conditioning to cool the battery so if you blow this fuse you will lose supercharging capability as well. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
The dynamic PoV is soooooo awesome on this video, good job, Rich Rebuild's people!!!
I followed this video and fixed the AC on my 2013 Model S P85. Thank you! My AC worked fine last summer and when I tried to use for the first time this spring it didn't work. I've been using AC occasionally for the last week (after this fix) and it's still working. My cost = $65 (two Bussman FWP40A14FA fuses and Permatex 85224 'gasket maker') plus a few hours of my time. Rumored repair cost = $1300. Savings = $1235
Great instructional video. I would point out that it is probably best to do the electrical continuity check once you've replaced the fuses BUT BEFORE reinstalling the lid. That way you can adjust for any mistakes that may have cropped up during the fuse replacement procedure (e.g. bad fuse from the parts dealer, bad insertion practice, wonky fuse holder) and correct them.
Love your videos! They are well put together and very informative!
Thank you we try to keep them short and concise.
@@ElectrifiedGarage The fact that you are not cutting out the hard parts, like every other youtuber does, is what makes them brilliant. Keep up the good work!
Omg ur the best to do it.. I have a 13 S & it was hit there & long story short, I found the part does it have to be reprogrammed & if so can I buy ur help to get my Tesla brick fix, off the grid problem
You are awesome sharing things like this, my hat is off and you certainly have my business when the going get to tough for my diy ability.
Excellent video, thank you. Is there a VIN No change which indicates when they changed from Gen 1 to Gen 2?
So much good information here. Do you have anything on the 12v battery not being charged?
Hi Chad. Great informative video.
Please can you tell the functions of the wires in the low voltage connector. I think the two black are for the HVIL What of the blue, purple and yellow? Two CAN bus wires and a 12 DC charge enable? Will the application of HV (say 300V dc) cause a 12volts output, or does it need CAN bus instructions? Thanks.
Hey Guys this info is golden!
Just wondering what is current rating for the 12V side of the DC to DC ? Thanks
great video , do you know the pin out data for gen 1 dc/dc i think it has 6 signal pins .i putting a tesla p85 into mk2 mr2 .
Super! Exactly what we all need. Perfect!! Thanks so much and keep them coming!
Maybe you could also show where the module lives inside the car and how to get it out?
And: why did the fuse blow? Is there s.th. wrong elsewhere?
The module is mounted in the front right wheel well behind the arch liner cover. It is a couple of bolts, electrical connectors and coolant lines. Removal and replacement is very straight forward once the cars HV system is disabled. You can look to the battery 12v video on how to shut down the car prior to working on the HV system. The fuse blows because either the heater is shorted internally or the A/C Compressor tries to draw too much amperage.
@@ElectrifiedGarage THANKS!! :-)
@@ElectrifiedGarage is there data log (freeze frame) available too see how much the AC compressor was drawing ?
Any recommendations on how to remove a gen 2 DC to DC converter?
Hi guys love all your videos you do especially all the detailed ones .. we in England are having quite a few Gali g PTC heaters in model s and x
We recon to many failures due to manafacturing defects / errors could you reach out to Tesla uk and also do more in-depth videos please regarding these areas 🤞🏽 kind regards kevin England
Hi. I have very poor heating in my tesla s, bit it is a little heat. Could this be fix this way? Or just when not working at all? Thanks in advance
I have a 2013 model S, so more than likely a gen1 DC\DC module. Can you please share p/n for the AC fuse.
Hi,
Thanx for this amazing video!!!
Do you need to refill coolant after assembly?
Yes, top off the cooling system, plug in for charging, this will cycle the cooling pumps causing the air to purge into the revivor.
Great video. I appreciate the step by step. Where is this located in the car?
It is located inside the passenger front wheel well behind the arch liner. It's bolted to the firewall.
Thank you for that video.
I have some questions about fixing the PTC and the AC/AC convertor and hope you could answer them:
+ to disabled the HV system I have to follow all steps of your battery 12V video - did I get that right?
+ where do I find the PTC / how do I get to it?
+ I have a 2013/11 Model 85S. Can I fit a more modern PTC (I think there are 3 generations of PTC, my car originally used the 1st)? or can I fit a PTC of a 75 model?
- negative lead on 12V, then disconnect firemen's loop harness
- GEN1 PTC slides out near the passenger side footwell area. Pretty much everything is in the way: center console, Passenger knee airbag, the dumb metal bracket that holds the airbag, hvac tube thing.
-Then you got to snake orange wire out after disconnecting the harness from the DCDC, i'll let you figure that one out. Not simple to do
Source: I did this today...
@@mikec7812 did you do yours? I have a bad 20 and 40 A fuse. wasn't planning on replacing the heater & never had issues with it/ just no 12v charging
Where do you get the fuses from?
What kind of fuses? Do you have the spec?
What is the reason why the fuse are blown?
How can one deal with the software issue of replacing the heater if shorted? Can the control board be swapped on to good heater elements? Can the heater be checked with a DVOM?
You'll need an Isolation DVOM to check the heater. The logic board can be swapped over. Later versions of firmware seem to not have an issue with requiring firmware afterwards. We haven't found a rhyme or reason to this though.
Where is thus unit in the vehicle. will you show how to put it back?
Also, can you list the items needed and the gloves? They look nice. Thanks for the videos
The module is mounted in the front right wheel well behind the arch liner cover. It is a couple of bolts, electrical connectors and coolant lines. Removal and replacement is very straight forward once the cars HV system is disabled. You can look to the battery 12v video on how to shut down the car prior to working on the HV system. The fuse blows because either the heater is shorted internally or the A/C Compressor tries to draw too much amperage. The fuse part # is in the video description. The gloves are called "cut-resistant" and can be found at most PPE vendors like cintas, uline, etc.
Hey Chad, Great video, never saw this done before. Just some questions. What would cause these fuses to blow? And second Where would I be able to buy these replaceable fuses? Is there a part # for them? Thanks for any info. Luv you guys.
The PTC Heater fuse blows because the PTC Heater shorts internally. It needs to be replaced at the same time as you do the fuses otherwise it will just blow the fuse again. The A/C Compressor fuse blows because it draws too much amperage on startup sometimes. The fuse part # is FWP-40A14Fa. They're available on the internet pretty easily.
@@ElectrifiedGarage Thanks for the info.
Electrified Garage Maybe not necessarily “need” to be replaced but “recommend”. The DCDCs I have seen replaced do not open a fuse if the heater was not replaced. But yes it is a good precautionary measure. Nice tutorial!
K Holsopple for the amount of work involved the fuse is short money to just do at that time. Every one we ran into at the service center the heater was shorted. You can get an isolation meter to check it but it’s cheaper to buy a replacement heater at the same time.
@@ElectrifiedGarage great video. Although, I would check for continuity again after the new fuses are installed, prior to sealing. It's rare, but sometimes new fuses are bad, and also something else might be broken.
I don’t see anywhere where it says what fuse they are and where to get them… I would like to order them before I do all the work and be left without a car…
dDo you guys have a class and if so how much do you charge?
We are working on this. Unfortunately with current situation doing classes is tough besides virtual.
In person Classes just starting up on EG’s website. You can reserve your spot now before they sell out. Check it out. 👍
What are the faults on the car to suggest it needs replacing?
Tesla are charging me £1100 to replace the whole DC/DC converter on my Model S. They can't be sure it needs to be replaced until they've done it they say after a 2 hour diagnosis
The faults would be 1) No Heat 2) No A/C 3) No supercharging ability 4) No 12v Support 5) No battery heater function.
@@ElectrifiedGarage could this cause the car to shut down/failure to run? I got error codes GTW_w018 and DI_u014 and am told DCDC converter is the problem.
@@chrisazim1 no, the issues would be no heat or a/c function. When the fault has di in the beginning its referring to the drive inverter. Gtw is a gateway fault. Things that could shutdown the vehicle is low 12v or something preventing the HV battery from turning on.
And the root cause of why the fuse had blown?
👍👌🇵🇹
Tesla- let’s shape this like Nuremberg
Nürburg! Or simply "The Ring" ;-) It is pretty far away from Nuremberg (Nürnberg), which is a town in Bavaria (where I live).
But I fully get what you are saying! :-) And you are so right!! What a funny shape!!
What happened to easily accessible fuses? Tesla seems to make this harder than necessary. :(
This part is made by Toyota not Tesla actually. You're right they're not easy to access but where its high voltage they need to be protected.
@@ElectrifiedGarage This whole module assembly is made by Toyota? I didnt know the fuses were high voltage. Would they have been better off using resetable breakers under an access port instead of fuses? Or do they really not want people working on their own cars and expect everyone to visit the dealer?
@@JasonWW2000 The engineer that designed it I am sure designed it "not to fail" :) Easily better ways to have gone about it but it is what it is. I doubt serviceability was a thought at the time of development.
@@JasonWW2000
I suspect that resettable breakers would be dimensionally larger for one thing, but also that introduces another fail point. You now have a mechanical mechanism instead of a solid object..
I suspect the resettable breaker would have to be under that cover protected because of the high voltage involved. And if you've got to pull the thing out and get the cover off anyway at that point a fuse is pretty much just as easy.
Why don't we teach more of this in HS to boys?
Yah, and cake baking for girls too.
Those are not kitchen knives!
This unit is such a garbage design, I figured Tesla would be more elegant with their engineering..