Tesla Model S PTC Heater Replacement - Someone was Here Before!! Uh-oh
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- čas přidán 1. 02. 2024
- Yep, somebody was here fixing on the heater before we got here. That is never a good sign!!
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#tesla #heater #PTC #teslamodels #ev #diy #repair - Auta a dopravní prostředky
As I commented in your previous videos about this, your PTC is FINE... it makes heat, that's all it does (by varying the HV to the resistive array, using power MOSFETS... there's 6 of them). That "Resistor" module is just a resistor by name, IT IS NOT A RESISTOR... also called the "Blower Motor Controller Module" - that has a Power MOSFET that varies the voltage to the Blower Motor... see those letters "G/D/S" on that PC board? Those are the 3 leads on a MOSFET transistor "Gate" (input), "Drain" and "Source". The PTC box send pulses to the MOSFET Gate, which switches DC power ON & OFF to the blower motor so fast that the motor see's it as "variable DC voltage".
When the blower motor stops running (because of the bad motor), there's no airflow to cool that heat-sink, then that blower controller module overheats, and blows its thermal fuse... which is a replaceable part... by itself, if you know how to solder circuit boards. The thermal fuse will have its rated temperature printed right on it, you can get new ones on Amazon... like:
(search Amazon for "Hilitchi 85-Pcs 10A 250V Circuit Cut Off Temperature Thermal Cutoffs Fuse Assortment Kit - 100℃ to 280℃")
Thank you for the explanation. I appreciate it.
The other issue I have is this: many times on my trips with this car the the heater goes ice cold. Even with my fan running and the heat on max there will be no heat at all. Something else is going on here.
I once had a honda civic (and live way up north in Canada) - and one of the fan speeds dropped out. The other two worked and I was told the switch had three differing resistors to regulate the speed of the fan. Good luck Randy!
yes the heating on tesla is no different the gas car except for the heater core being a heating element but the resistor is what controls the blower motor
From what Monkey-wrench Mike said, it ran great on that long trip in the cold.
It could be that the inside temperature exceeded the set-point, thereby shutting OFD the PTC core to conserve energy... but since the fan was forced to stay ON, you would naturally get cold air.
Put the Gen 3 one back in and then put in the new resistor you ordered. It was working with your fan switch so obviously that's the issue. Order more than one resistor so you have a backup.
I honestly had a feeling it would be the blower motor resistor from the first video. I would reinstall the upgraded unit and get a new BMR. It should solve the entire issue. Good luck and an awesome video tutorial!
It was pretty obvious when a toggle switch worked to fix it. The heater worked the whole time they took it to KC. I don't mind watching the work but can't stand the dishonesty. It was not the PTC heater from the beginning.
@@kerrytruitt2626 But what caused the first 2 BMRs to blow their thermal fuse? The only way I can see that happening is if the blower motor stopped for whatever reason while the heater was still on and it overheated. The heater didn't consistently work on their road trip either, it was randomly blowing cold air. So there may be more than one issue going on here.
Agree, use the upgraded heater and replace the blower motor as it's probably blown the replacement fuse for a reason...
Yup, and I even posted eBay listing info about this part in two previous videos.
@@Markgeoghegan100 Agree as well. Something (possibly 300 K miles) of use caused the old BMR to fail. I would use the new one if it fits, otherwise plunk the old one back in with a new BMR.
I've seen worse jobs replacing a heater core.
The Car Wizard did a heater core replacement in a Range Rover once that was 10 times worse than that Tesla! It took days to complete!
I think that's a great plan, putting it part way back together and testing it.
Great video!
I think they are doing it wrong. The entire dash is put into the vehicle in one big piece and fastened in quickly in the factory. It seems like doing the reverse is a much better way to service the heater core and blend doors instead of spending days trying to access extremely hard to reach screws and bolts while the dash stays in the car.
The piece on the side of the dash with the wire I believe is the proximity sensor for the key. When you walk up to the car door to open and unlock the car. Should be one on each side of the dashboard. Great Tesla videos, keep them coming!
Here's my take. PTC heater went out first and Tesla replaced it. Then the blower motor failed and blew the fuse. Blower motor was replaced because it was faulty and the blower didn't work due to the blown fuse. So a used resistor was ordered and it was faulty and here we are.
Randy, It was oddly satisfying watching you digging through all the components to get to the PTC unit. Either you did some good research or you are one brave dude. Regardless, I am confident that you will eventually resolve the problem. I am looking forward to the next episode.
When will part 3 be released about the purchase of the other Tesla.. I am curious about the resolution.
This weekend. Probably Sunday.
We're all on pins and needles waiting for part 3 lol
I Must admit I’m on tender hooks as well 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Yeah I'm so looking out for part 3
What do you mean the heater is not very efficient? It's electric.....100% efficient
I admire your patience and courage. Bravo
Rough it in would be the best and most efficient.
Great video Randy!
Randy Really Interesting Content, I admire your enthusiasm and bravery for digging into it without pretending to be a Tesla Expert. 🇺🇸👏👏👏👏👏👏👏🏴
I’ve been looking forward to this video. Thanks Randy for the video
Hope you enjoyed it!
That piece wasn't aggressively thrown on the floor. It was a gravity assisted delivery to the floor.
Randy, I'd go with the older unit. The PTC's don't die very often. Someone other than Tesla was in there as witnessed by the junk blower resistor. If Tesla had worked on this there would be heat when you bought the car.
To help me decide I'd do the old "eeny meeny miny moe" routine - never fails.
Great video! Hope you get it fixed!
Really enjoyed you video. Love it when you have a problem and trace it out to find the cause. Not so much into the junk yard tours but a least you aren't too lazy to carry a jump pack. Glad you are not into the EBIKES (won't even watch those. Looking forward to next video
Love the videos of you working on your tesla very informative maybe in the future buy another cheap high mileage one to fix up great content
Think that the corrosion on the dc to dc converter was causing a bad ground, shorting the thermal fuse. You already cleaned the contacts on converter. Should be all good with upgraded heater that came with the Tesla.
Sounds like you got a good plan🎉
You can do this my friend. Awesome show
I think your plan is good. That's what I would do. Great video
You should replace the air filter while you have it out. Looks like it needs replacement. 👍👍
Fan motor may be on its way out causing too much resistance, which would be blowing fuses. I also noticed the 2021 date code on the PTC removed from the car. I've changed blower motors on my VW Touareg, it is a very similar process to remove the glovebox to access the blower.
Hello Randy. Fixing the heater on the Tesla Model S P85. Replacing the PTC unit to have a heater.
Great video. Dont worry. You made a great video about how to change PTC heater, so it was not for nothing 🙂
Enjoy this video bud keep up the good work 👍
Desolder the thermal fuse, solder a new one in - if you have access to one.
Ideally put a clamp ammeter onto the power feed to the blower motor and measure how much current it's drawing. If the blower motor bearings are failing, it will draw much more current than it's supposed to. That will cause the blower motor resistor (really, a PWM MOSFET drive) to get much hotter than it should and it will blow that thermal fuse.
Your root cause of this is likely the blower motor itself.
I like your plan. Rough it in and test.
Hey Randy, I just saw your video on the Tesla. I hope you can figure out the problem with the heater. Can’t wait to see your next video. I hope you have a great day. Talk to you later.
Another solid Tesla video, bro. I look forward to seeing the car run when everything is all repaired. Because I’m actually looking at saving up to get an older Tesla myself. And with the new model three refresh release, a lot of people are selling their older Teslas at really good prices just to get that newer refresh and the maintenance cost and the charging costs are actually really low. So it’s definitely something I’m saving up to get it. But I’m really enjoying these videos bro I really enjoy all of your videos, so keep them coming. Have a good one and I’ll catch you on the next one.
Awesome Video Mate well done
Thanks 👍
Great video Randy ❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks so much
All you have to do it to replace FUSE, FAST, 40A, 700VAC/DC,14MM X 51MM(1019010-00-A)you need 2 of them $45 each at Tesla.
One of the units is bound to work. Good luck, can't wait to see what happens.
next part ASAP 😂😂 i love this one
I'd use the newer one also. The big questions are whether the blown resistor killed the PTC controller and what caused the BMR fuse to pop. Also, check the blower motor while you're in there. It could have been what kicked this whole thing off
That’s unfortunate, but oh well. Keep up the grind randy!
Great video on the Tesla😀🔥
Thanks! 😁
Good video
My vote would be to rough in and test both the original and replacement. If both work initially, i suggest running both for an extended period of time to see if either blows the resistor over time.
Also, with your blown resistors, you can tack the replacement fuse, or fuseable resistor, or whatever it to the back of the board right where you were testing it and you will have spare resistors modules.
Did you try holding the power button and home button for 6 seconds 😂😂
(Joke btw)
There was a airbag recall on early model S. That could be one of the reasons you see the witness marks to get to it.
Youre right. Tesla sold him this tesla through the option as well so they 100% probably did the recall while it was in their possession.
Reach out to the previous owner and ask.
Personally I'd put in the Gen 3 blower motor with a new resistor.
Keep the Tesla videos coming
the blower motor is massive. The gen 3 is the PTC. Yes he should put the new ptc back in. The blower looks like it was replaced as well so 2 new resistors and he should be in business with his heat. If he needed to run a hot wire to a switch then this should solve his issue.
I would put the model 3 back in because I don't think that's the problem. It looks too new and nice then give it a try first before putting everything back together. Enjoy your videos!!
Definitely from my own experience, I will go with buying two resistor and try them out, and plug in the GN 3 PTC back on because it has a newer software and components.
Very smart move on your part
As i understand correctly, you did got heat when you connected the blower motor part directly to the 12V battery earlier. That means the PTC heater part was already working. Where is the blower motor connected to normally? Is it connected directly to the PTC heater module? If that is true you can install the blower motor to the replaced PTC module with a working fuze (resistor) and hopefully the fuze will not blow.
This changed my perspective!
That’s still a lot of pieces even though they are plastic. Nice video.
I absolutely love the black wheels and the amazing grey on the tesla, It looks like any ordinary tesla on the road BUT its a older model 😄🙃
It actually seemed easier than most heater cores these days
hey Randy, here’s a thought
If the blower motor resistor keeps on blowing, it may be that the blower motor is malfunctioning! Good Luck! 34:16
I dont think it kept blowing. It had salvage writing on it. Something tells me Tesla did the PTC first. Then it went out again and they did the blower motor. Chances are the previous owner did something stupid and shorted something out and caused the resister to blow. Then instead of paying a ton of money to fix it. They did some googling and found a resistor cheap to replace hoping that would fix it. But wound up getting 2 bad units. If both of these are blown, then Randy probaby found the culprit.
Agree to put the new model PTC in as much as you need to test a new resistor.
I would go with the one you bought because it may be a software compatibility issue with the new gen 3 module that causes the resistor to blow.
yes install the new updated ptc heater back in then solder on a solid bypass wire in place of the thermal fuse, save money call it a day then you wont have to worry about it again. and return the replacement old ptc heater and get your money back.
Great video Randy! Keep it coming. Maybe enlist MWM has your camera man to hold it during the tough shooting locations on the vehicle?
Yes
Put the Newer 1 back in! Aslo I'm mad for you that the resistor is bad & you didn't have to go through all that!
Also something is blowing the Fuse maybe something was loose 🤷🏾
I feel like maybe the Gen 3 module has too much output and is blowing the thermal fuse. I think you should go with the one you purchased.
Sorry buddy you can do it good luck
Hi There,I would use the old module you bought with the new B M resister. Be Cos the "new"module you took off the car might be the reason that Tesla (by mistake) installed was GEN3 and not compatible with your Tesla ,which is older(2013) and probably the reason for burning B M resistor . This way, you might burn ONLY ONE B M resistor.
Cheers, Sean, from Sweden
With the newer PTC module find out of the upgrades will work with the 2013 software.
I would do a power flow check ...look for any voltage drops through the modules...reeks of possible shorts somewhere
Randy just watched the video.
Research how to safely bench test the PTC , Could simply be the circuit board in the PTC .
Test each wire of PTC wire harness.
Wiring is so much fun to diagnose, I'm surprised the Tesla on board diagnosis doesn't find a issue.
Did the heater issue correspond to the upgraded battery ?
Pre testing in the vehicle could work also , check inside the connectors where they go from the PTC wires ,only takes one shorted wire.
Keep up the great videos.
Watching from Janesville Wisconsin.
Ivan would use a test lamp instead of the resistor
I would assume there must be a relay up the circut from that heater unit,,,but odds are its good if you get the fan spinning and there is heat... I might question the blower motor,,,could be too a amperage and burning up the resistor? and I would want to check the wiring on both sides the blower resister..
Low air flow over resistor, how clean is the evaporator,are the defrost,and floor,and vent doors have full motion,high current draw from blower would normally blow low speed on conventional cars . The whole problem may have started with a dirty cabin filter.
I would try hooking up the old one first with a new BMR then if it works try the new one. Maybe the new one is just slightly different and somehow not quite compatible and it keeps blowing the resistor?
Personally I would just change the resistor. It can happen that a new resistor is bad, they are not pretested. You know the new blower motor works, because you got it produce when you bypassed the resistor with your switch. Since Tesla obviously changed the unit, it probably worked for a while after the repair. I would venture to say there might also be a problem with the speed control on the fan motor. The high -med-low switch on the fan also should have resistors. You are changing the whole system don't skip one component.
Danny
Use whatever PTC you want to use. That fuse is a thermal fuse. If the blower motor isn't moving air the fuse is designed to open the fuse. I would put things together enough to jump the thermal fuse. Then read the voltage at the fan connector and work back to the point you find voltage. The controller of the fan could be bad or the cable to the fan. Replace the fuse after you get it running. This will need troubleshooting skills to fix it and from the looks of it Tesla has no one that has that type of skill set. Tesla needs to get their act together.
I would put the gen 3 back in and replace the modules.
I know it's a little late in the game, but did you spray dioxin on all of the connections when you had it apart? Some times there is build-up on the brass wire connectors. I'll continue watching your video.
You answered your question. Test fit the new, if that doesn't work test the old one. That doesn't work than your chasing the wiring. Know you are Tesla seeing if you are ready to Play Roulette. This is where the original owner gave up. Hopefully the odds are in your favor.
Get the new blower motor resistor and put that newer PTC back in and try it. 😊
Buy two resistors, install a newer module back and power it, if the fuse in the resistor blows, you have an answer that the module is bad.
Look at your blower motor resistor plug as well.
Hey Randy it's Mike from California maybe the new heater core thing that you that was the new one maybe it blew out the resistor I tried the old one maybe the old one won't blow it up because it's not an upgrade
I would put the new updated heater blower in. It's an upgrade, don't see a problem with it. That was ALOT of work too Randy!
It had a 2021 date code on it too
Maybe the old motor took out the new blowermotor resistor ?what sequence was the work doe previously
You can replace the fuse (jakeleg it) and give it a try.
Im late to the game but id go with the unit you bought.
Those parts have a date code on them. The 'used one, you said was from a 2014. It says- 20141014, and the one out of the car says- 20210915. - so the one out of the car was made September 15th 2021. Pay attention! LOL.
My Nissan Pathfinder blows blower M resisters almost every year, go with the new PTC back in, that should do it. Also the blk truck has a check engine light on, what's that about?
Do you have access to the wiring diagrams for the heater system? What kind of voltages run the heater? Is it AC or DC? Any theory of operation information available for the tesla heating system?
Doctor the patient is yours for goodness sake the golf game must wait !
I would use the older unit as you know it works. I suspect the newer unit maybe faulty causing the resistor to blow - you have 2 blown resistors to support this!!
I would use the salvage yard heater it’s possible that gen3 unit is burning out the resistor. Thinking back on your road trip with the car didn’t you say that the fan worked intermittently? If so the fan motor could be shorted out and burning the resistor out
the resistor was already blown.
Solder an external fuse across that blower motor resistor, if it pops it just a simple fuse replacement
Randy ,Put the Gen 3 one back in with new resistor
It's like a life size snap together model
How many volts does the PTC need? I am considering one for defrost in a racecar build.
put the new module back in and the new resister if it blows again put the old module back in hope for the best!
I would say put the gen 3 in but at the same time you had codes for it and heat was coming and going best to just get the resistor put the gen 3 unit leave it all loosesly mounted and test it
are you able to get a head mounted camera, to free up your free hand? love to see you work with both hands?
there should be a way to test for resistance on the that ptc,,,its basically like a heating element out of a water heater,,,(grid array),,anyway if there is continuity,,odds are its good unless circuit is open,,,then its bad,,,, (another simple continuity test should help,,,and compare with the other one for the heck of it since they are out....
That's way more work than I would ever want to do on any vehicle.
The PTC-heater works. You have heat but fan doesn’t run. Rymning at full speed the heat will be difficult to regulate. It Will go on and off blowing cold and heated air at full speed. Try tracing the voltage going to the fan instead.
I say put the newer one in, and leave the Tesla as taken apart as possible in the garage while the new resistor comes in. Only put back together the minimal amount for testing! :)
put the gen 3 module back, replace the "resistor" then check the amp draw from the fan. my guess is the fan is worn out and is what is blowing the fuse/damaging the module.