Mazda MX5 Mk1 Buying Guide - Not Cheap For Much Longer?
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
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Now it's into classic territory, the Mazda MX5 is well worth buying as an investment, but how easy are they to buy?
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It’s only rust. The other issues are like complaining about a sore knee when your head is hanging off.
Your idea isn't the only one, try non linear thinking.
Totally agree on the overall assessment of the Miata, I have driven mine for 29 years now as my daily driver, and plan to continue doing so until either I or the car dies.
That’s amazing you must live in a sourthen state!
@@Metalodeath Nope, Colorado, before that, Michigan. I did live in Southern California when I bought it, but left about a year after I bought the car.
I've got a '92 Eunos Roadster that's still totally rust free and have never had any problems with it in the 12years that I've owned it. Brilliant little cars 👍👍
Preserve it, Tony!
Looking at getting one 1998 are they fairly cheap to maintain or is it a bad idea as my only car.
I have a rare Eunos S-limited with the red interior. Imported in 2004 and never been flagged for rust though it has been garaged for at least the last 8 years. Cam belt is overdue so will be sorting this year. Apart from a sticky caliper, a loose battery terminal and a couple of oil leaks it's never let me down. I did think about selling up but it cost peanuts to run and it's a joy to drive in the summer months.
Great video! All the points mentioned are valid for pretty much all Mazda cars too. I had a 1.8L 1999 Protegé, a 2.3L 2006 Mazda 5 and a 2.0L Mazda 3.
Awesome video Joe!
Thanks for uploading this video, a load of useful info for a noob looking at maybe buying one. I do want the mk1 with the pop up lights too. Useful to know Moss sell lots of parts for them as well.
Really helpful advice 👍thanks
For the shift boots, you will also notice that it gets quite warm around that area when they are badly worn. I had to replace both in my '93 at around 150k miles. Just under 200k miles on it now. Also the top was a bit of a chore to replace for someone inexperienced at it, took me about 8 hours overall to figure it all out and get it sorted, but quite happy with the results.
This was a better guide then haggerty thanks man! I think I’m gonna buy one and learn stick shift
Hope you enjoy it!
My 90 import needed a rear sill/lower wing panel last year (I did it) and I’ve found a small hole in the other sill end plate but that’s it luckily ! And I keep it outside
My first car was a 1996 UK Monaco, BRG with black cloth interior and a tan hood. I loved that damn car.
Can’t wait to buy one one day! I’ll be back here when I’ve finally saved up enough for one! 🙏
Got it?
@@piyuki7638 I do!!!!
@@piyuki7638I do bro
Great review, do you do a similar one for the Mark 2 ?
Had my 91 for 15 yrs now nearly 400k kms on the clock goes brilliant....no rust...my advice....changed the suspension bushes if over 100k kms and use the revs all the time, never sell "cheers
Check the drip-tray under the rear of the hood. It's plastic and when it splits water drains into the sills and rots them out. But before the sills get holed , water leaks through the seat-belt anchorages and soaks the carpets. Took me ages to find the source of the damp floors. Drilled the sills and filled them with waxoyl. New drip tray. Car still sound but no longer mine..
Everyone always goes to the roof being the issue for leaks, mine was always flooded after a rainy night and the floor was completely rotten on the drivers side but there was no water getting in through the roof at all, the problem turned out to be some of the clips on the door rubbers had snapped and water was going straight through the bottom and overflowing into the footwell
Had a few of these,with some little Mods,they drive real well. Buy them now ! Before they go mental . .
Never had mad rust with mine,but seen a few
What mods would you recommend?
Thank you so much. I have 1994 special edition
The previous owner bought a rust elimination is electric negative charge in the body
So poor it is rust free
the only car i own for more than 28 year .... love it since brand new.
Good vid but a couple of errors. The 1.8 as the 1.6, has hydraulic lifters so no need to set valve clearances. There is no difference in undersealing between the Mx5 & Eunos. That was a myth, along with having thinner glass, perpetuated by Mazda UK to tarnish & dissuade people buying the Eunos during the height of the grey imports.
A good assessment. I've had my '91 for many years now. Sadly I have to sell it soon, but some lucky person will get themselves a fully restored BBR turbo to enjoy. Fabulous cars.
How much are you selling it for?
@@jrxlr It's £8,000.
I'm planning on getting one in 2023, what do you think the prices will be?
I have a 1.6 NB, I personally like the design better and 2 years ago there was a rust free one in my area in my favorite color silver.... so I didn't have to think twice and got it for a bargain price.
So far I haven't had to do anything to it, I've just bought new tires. The previous owner treated all the chassis with grease, I now want to have it sealed with wax, don't know if you can just slap wax on grease.
I have a '93 I bought new in '93, sadly, living in Michigan and Colorado has not been good to it, both places salt the roads, and it is still my daily driver. Still safe to drive, but have rusted sill panels.
I have a PRISTINE (in every sense) Mk1 California with only 22,000 miles and I took it for a precautionary cam belt change, even though it had thousands more useable miles left in it. The chaps at the MX5 Restorers advised me to increase my agreed valuation from £7,000 up to between £10,000 to £12,000, as £7,000 now would only buy ma a 50,000 miler with possible rust issues.
so what you're saying is that you're not using it enough :D
Is the 1.8 or 1.6 more reliable?
What is the best year to buy ?
Im from the usa and my 90 had speakers in the headrest
Think the used car price hike has had a big impact on the price of MX5 N/A's. Now see quite a few in the classifieds and specialist dealers for what seem pretty inflated prices when compared to a year/18 months ago. Still some around for 3K but I wonder if most at that price will be pretty rusty and needing quite a lot of money spending to make a decent car. NB prices are generally more sensible with a few exceptions! problem is they seem to have an even worse reputation for rust so finding a decent one may take some doing!
NB Front chassis rails - terminal rust. I’ve seen some lovely cars on the outside but MOT failures due to this
Owned a bunch of these. a 93/94/95 early 1.8, JDM car is by miles the best option - S Spec, V Spec, G limited, etc. Better engine, bigger brakes, bigger 7" ring gear diff with Torsen LSD, bigger clutch, better underbody bracing. But boefore the very late NA's got a bit fat with side impact beams and even airbags in some markets. Slighlty amended geometry to reduce bump steeer at lower ride height. Mk2 mohair hood with a glass back window is another massive upgrade, save the faffing with zips. Dont listen to anyone who tells you the earlier 1.6 is a 'sweeter' engine. its rubbish, they are also probably the people who will tell you a Mk2 8 valve Goilf Gti is better than a 16valve 'in the real world' and other such nonsense. The 1.8 is better in every way. Cam belt and water pump is a doddle, so ignoring it because its a non interference engine is stupid - its still going to cause you a breakdown, an emergency repair, and if it goes whilst your pulling onto a motorway or on a fast road, still very dangerous. Cheap and easy to change - so change it!
I own a 1993 1.6 and a 1994 1.8 (both roadsters) You can barely tell the difference, the 1.8 feels a little 'torquier' and the 1.6 feels revvier and takes better to the 14 degree advance 'mod'. Personally I actually prefer the 1.6. I think most people who've come to the same conclusion as you have driven a later 1.6 which are de-tuned. They were de-tuned as not to compete with the very similar 1.8 so that probably says something. The main thing is the diff as the VLSD is pretty useless but easily changed. I think a small way in which the 1.6 is better is that it already has a pre-drilled oil return port and the 1.8 doesn't so might be useful if going turbo
Imagine selling a car to this bloke.
Would you buy a 97 Miata with 100k miles for $8000 or a 94 M edition with 80k miles for $11000?
Allow 2 k for sills etc for early ones😞
Been wanting one for a couple years but the money and my overall situation has never lined up, now prices are rising really fast I’m worried by the time I get one they’ll be at classic car prices!
Yea man I'm 15, when I was 14 I thought I'd be able to afford one by the time I turned 16. I'm gonna have to set my sights on later 20's now I think.
I keep seeing CZcamsrs claim they got theirs for $1500ish. I can’t find one for under $6k - $7k.
Yep. And those for 1500 have more rust than metal
Great condition NA Miatas are over $10K+ now...
I know they’re not as pretty but don’t forget about the potential of a low mileage early NB. Just as good to drive but not quite so expensive. Shame about the rot in the sills and chassis legs :(
Oh we’re big fans of the NB, Peter! Have a look at our NB video 😁
@@ClassicsWorldUK We’ve got a T reg ‘99 VS JDM that is 100% standard in twilight blue and cream leather/hood. Had new rear quarters, sills and chassis rails rails but still going strong at 130k. Lovely stuff!
The prices are rising but I still wouldn’t cheap out if you see a cheap one that looks like it needs (work) I would pass on it
My car I bought for 3k as a roller but the interior and exterior was immaculate and I got a motor to put in but I decided to rebuild it
Britain is a great country for convertibles. It's hot countries you don't want them in. Anyone who drove top down in 30 plus degrees will tell you that
👍🏻
I got an NC instead which was far better value for money
You might like our road test video, Chris!
Mazder.
Too bad an NB rots even harder 🧐
So they rust like a mofo 😂