Hi Robert, Great video. I’m new to all of this, but I’m learning. I’m curious, but after watching this video, I think I might know the answer, do I need a pressure regulator if I’m changing from a sprinkler to a riser with a manifold so I can have a drip line in one area where the sprinkler is mainly watering the sidewalk and not the tree? Or is a riser with a manifold safe without one? I also have an extended riser for bushes and larger plants that I recently installed too. I want to make sure I’m not going to cause any type of pressure issues. If this works, I will add probably three more risers with manifolds to change to a drip system in areas where I have plants that need very different amounts of water. Again, new to this, so I’m not quite certain what I’m doing yet. Thanks for any helpful suggestions or advice. Melissa
Hi Melissa/Robert. I’m not sure I fully understand your setup. However, as it relates to drip, the pressure regulator is used to keep the fittings & hose/tube together, without using clamps. Barbed drip fittings came be used safely without clamps under about 50psi. If you have more than 50psi a pressure regulator would be recommended. Let us know if this helps or if we can better answer your question. Andy
Another great video. Lets say I have a system of 8 sprayers in series. I assume that the pressure at the pump is pretty high such that it can make it all the way down to the end. Would it make sense to replace all the bodies with the pressure regulated ones?(currently using hunter pro spray, would replace with PR30/PR40). I am noticing a lot of misting in some of the nozzles at the tail end of the line. Also, would I need to get ones with the check valve for all of them or just the one at the tail end? I am trying to avoid having to dig up the entire system, I think it would be easiest just to dig up the sprayer bodies since I can locate those the easiest.
An interesting observation with the "tail end" sprinklers misting. Typically, pressure is higher as you get closer to the pump, so the sprinklers closer to the pump should be the sprinklers that mist more. A couple of quick comments: 1 - You can swap out the sprinkler guts, meaning, it is not necessary to dig up the entire sprinkler. You can unscrew the top and remove the sprinkler, leaving the body in the ground, then insert the new PR40 sprinkler. 2 - Check valves are only necessary for the sprinklers at the bottom of a slope. The Check Valve will prevent water from draining (oozing) out of the sprinkler after the zone turns off. So, only sprinklers at the bottom should have check valves. Although, it will not hurt if they all have check valves.
What is the best place to regulate an irrigation system? I have just over 100 psi at the first hose bib. I will be tapping into the main supply prior to this. Is it better to place a PRV prior to the backflow preventer, or at the control valves (or at the master valve), or use pressure regulating spray bodies? I'm planning on using MP rotators. I need to lower the pressure going into the house as well. I'm thinking if I regulate the main supply line to 60 psi, the pressure after the backflow preventer would be 50 psi (ish). Would I still need pressure regulated spray bodies or could I use the the more cost effective standard Pro Sprays? Function and longevity are my priorities over initial cost.
@rts3613 Love this question and it sounds like you know exactly what you are doing. Yes, I would do as you said, and regulate the pressure on your main supply. 100psi is too high for any component of an irrigation system. 50psi after the backflow should be perfect. You probably don't need psi bodies, just the standard Pro-Spray, but if you live in CA they are mandatory (and some other states too). Pressure-regulating valves on the main are often adjustable. This would allow you to dial it in after installation. I would install a permanent pressure gauge on the main in your home so that you can see the pressure at any moment.
@@Andy_Humphrey Thank you for the feedback, it's very helpful. I will try to implement your suggestions. I'm in Texas, and I'm not aware of any mandates on using regulated spray bodies, but it may be municipality specific, so I'll definitely check. Thanks again for your help.
Is there a way to approximate how much pressure is lost for each sprinkler head added? I assume just popping up takes some pressure out of the system. And do certain sprinklers cause less of a drop in pressure for each one added (rotors, impact, spray nozzles, rotating nozzles…)? I’ve got too little pressure in one of the zones in the house I bought as it has 11 R-Vans and a drip line all in one zone, starting about 100 feet from the irrigation water source.
Yes, you can estimate/calculate the pressure loss. Dynamic Pressure Loss (aka, when the water is moving) is a function of gallon per minute, and the size the pipe the water is traveling through + the distance the water travels. This type of pressure know has friction loss and there are standardized tables that you can use to calculate this. Couple thoughts: 1 - Purchase a pressure gauge and test your pressure. You should test the static pressure on your home (not running), then test the dynamic pressure on the sprinkler while the system is running. This will help you understand what could be happening, and I'm happy to review the data with you. This is the gauge you will need: sprinklersupplystore.com/products/hunter-spray-head-pressure-gauge?variant=43673312777 2 - Your home pressure can change during the day if you are on City Water. Have you tried running this zone at different times and watching it? 3 - This zone may have a leak. It is a bit suspect that an installer would install a system that has a pressure problem. This problem likely developed after the install, caused by something. It would ideal to determine the cause. 4 - This zone valve may not be opening all of the way and therefore be restricting flow. Just to help you better understand pressure friction loss, let me give you an example, and you can reference this other video as well (czcams.com/video/7UfDL2IlVMA/video.html): Each R-VAN14 Nozzle, set to a 180 deg Arc, uses 0.73 gpm at 45psi. (see this performance chart www.rainbird.com/sites/default/files/media/documents/2020-09/r-van-nozzles-performance-charts.pdf) If you have 11 x R-VAN14 this would be equal to 8gpm (0.73 x 11 nozzles). You then take 8gpm (plus whatever your drip flow rate is) and use the following chart to calculate the friction loss, cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1987/5531/files/Hunter_Irrigation_Friction_Loss_Charts.pdf?v=1679586335 If you have 1-inch Class 200 PVC Pipe, the pressure loss is equal to 2.39 psi loss per 100 feet. Keep in mind that each of you sprinkle nozzles may only use 0.73gpm so eliminating just one nozzle may have zero effect. I suspect you have a leak, or a restriction in the pipe somewhere. Perhaps the drop tubing is cutting, and flowing a lot of water. Or perhaps tree roots have pinched the pipe somewhere.
I'm dealing with a 37 zone, 3 program, community. The resident of one zone (on program C) removed a number of their sprinkler heads because they have plants that don't require much water. When the zone comes on now, their lawn and plants get watered to their liking but there is a lot of water shooting out of the back flow (by the controller) now that the common area floods. Any suggestions?
Hi Robert. This could be caused by a number of things, including high pressure, although is sounds like a back-pressure issue. Couple questions, 1) what type of backflow is this? 2) does the water eventually stop? You are welcome to send any pictures, etc. directly to us. Please visit our website and use the Contact Us form and we'll sync up. You can also schedule a technical support call with us.
Hi @Kali M. I hope you find the leak! Unfortunately, no. Locate where the water supply line exits your home, there should be a shutoff valve inside your home, or a shutoff valve attached to the backflow preventer on the outside.
@@Andy_Humphrey yes I found the water shut off valve to the house which shuts the irrigation system too. There is no backflow preventer just a pressure regulator. This is bad huh
Help i rerouted my valve to my drip system and now my solenoid is buzzing the sprinklers are still running good but i cant figure out why the solenoid is buzzi g
I have two zones and the zone one has a 30psi regulator and the pvc pipe flows water to the back to zone 2 and another valve box with another 30psi regulator .Here is the problem when zone one is complete it is quiet .When zone 2 is complete I hear a thump ? I have a plumber out and no problem .I live in Las Vegas where the water pressure is high .So do I need two pressure regulators ? Or should I go lower on the pressure regulator ?
Hi BMW - This could be pressure, however, it sounds like a fast-closing-valve could be causing water hammer, at that is the sound you are hearing. Did this just start happening? Some valves have a handle/screw in the middle that can be used to adjust the closing speed (this is referred to as a Flow Control handle). Make sure the Flow Control is all the way open. The best approach is the test the water pressure of your home either inside at the source, or on a hose bib outside. You can find a pressure gauge locally or on our website. The static pressure reading will help you determine if the pressure regulator is required at all. Also, ask your plumber, they may have already tested the static pressure. You are welcome to send any pictures, etc. directly to us. Please visit our website and use the Contact Us form and we'll sync up with you. You can also schedule a technical support call with us.
Could a pressure regulator help with flow? If my home is on a well and has a much lower flow rate than your typical home on public water could installing a pressure regulator allow me to install more sprinklers per zone?
Hi Adam. It is actually the opposite, lowering the pressure with a regulator would also lower the flow rate. It may not lower it much, however, it not increase. Flow rate is the key to calculating the number of sprinklers you can install per zone. Two tips: 1) test the static pressure with a pressure gauge. Depending on how your home is plumbed, you may have a water pressure tank that can be adjusted up. 2) use a bucket and time how long it takes to fill up, this will determine your flow rate (gpm) You are welcome to send any pictures, etc. directly to us. Please visit our website and use the Contact Us form and we'll sync up. You can also schedule a technical support call with us.
Im using a pump thats rated for 45 psi and using .5 Netafim emitters and im still experiencing spraying.. And if I use a return line with a ball valve on the end they will do the same thing or not drip at all. Do you have any suggestions to fix this? Thanks in advance
Interesting. Have you tested the pressure at the end of the line? I wonder if it’s not a pressure issue. Dirt/debris in the emitter can cause it to spray like that - do you have filtration?
Hi Chandra. There any many different types of pressure regulars and I can't recall there being weep holes in any of the standard models. Can you send us a picture?
Mine too. Still hunting for a video explaining this. My guess is the incoming pressure is too high for the component or maybe the differential between the two is too great.
This guy really knows his stuff on sprinklers and pressure! Thanks.
Thank you, George! It’s both a blessing and a curse 🤓 -Andy
Those regulator works with pop-up sprinkler heads?
Yes, is pressure and issue for you?
Hi Robert,
Great video. I’m new to all of this, but I’m learning. I’m curious, but after watching this video, I think I might know the answer, do I need a pressure regulator if I’m changing from a sprinkler to a riser with a manifold so I can have a drip line in one area where the sprinkler is mainly watering the sidewalk and not the tree? Or is a riser with a manifold safe without one? I also have an extended riser for bushes and larger plants that I recently installed too. I want to make sure I’m not going to cause any type of pressure issues. If this works, I will add probably three more risers with manifolds to change to a drip system in areas where I have plants that need very different amounts of water. Again, new to this, so I’m not quite certain what I’m doing yet. Thanks for any helpful suggestions or advice.
Melissa
Hi Melissa/Robert.
I’m not sure I fully understand your setup. However, as it relates to drip, the pressure regulator is used to keep the fittings & hose/tube together, without using clamps. Barbed drip fittings came be used safely without clamps under about 50psi. If you have more than 50psi a pressure regulator would be recommended.
Let us know if this helps or if we can better answer your question.
Andy
Nice video . Good information. Thanks.
Thank you! What else would you like to learn about?
Another great video. Lets say I have a system of 8 sprayers in series. I assume that the pressure at the pump is pretty high such that it can make it all the way down to the end. Would it make sense to replace all the bodies with the pressure regulated ones?(currently using hunter pro spray, would replace with PR30/PR40). I am noticing a lot of misting in some of the nozzles at the tail end of the line. Also, would I need to get ones with the check valve for all of them or just the one at the tail end? I am trying to avoid having to dig up the entire system, I think it would be easiest just to dig up the sprayer bodies since I can locate those the easiest.
An interesting observation with the "tail end" sprinklers misting. Typically, pressure is higher as you get closer to the pump, so the sprinklers closer to the pump should be the sprinklers that mist more.
A couple of quick comments:
1 - You can swap out the sprinkler guts, meaning, it is not necessary to dig up the entire sprinkler. You can unscrew the top and remove the sprinkler, leaving the body in the ground, then insert the new PR40 sprinkler.
2 - Check valves are only necessary for the sprinklers at the bottom of a slope. The Check Valve will prevent water from draining (oozing) out of the sprinkler after the zone turns off. So, only sprinklers at the bottom should have check valves. Although, it will not hurt if they all have check valves.
WA state actually requires the pressure regulated spray heads.
Thanks Brett, good to know! -Andy
What is the best place to regulate an irrigation system? I have just over 100 psi at the first hose bib. I will be tapping into the main supply prior to this. Is it better to place a PRV prior to the backflow preventer, or at the control valves (or at the master valve), or use pressure regulating spray bodies? I'm planning on using MP rotators.
I need to lower the pressure going into the house as well. I'm thinking if I regulate the main supply line to 60 psi, the pressure after the backflow preventer would be 50 psi (ish). Would I still need pressure regulated spray bodies or could I use the the more cost effective standard Pro Sprays? Function and longevity are my priorities over initial cost.
@rts3613 Love this question and it sounds like you know exactly what you are doing. Yes, I would do as you said, and regulate the pressure on your main supply. 100psi is too high for any component of an irrigation system. 50psi after the backflow should be perfect. You probably don't need psi bodies, just the standard Pro-Spray, but if you live in CA they are mandatory (and some other states too).
Pressure-regulating valves on the main are often adjustable. This would allow you to dial it in after installation. I would install a permanent pressure gauge on the main in your home so that you can see the pressure at any moment.
@@Andy_Humphrey Thank you for the feedback, it's very helpful. I will try to implement your suggestions. I'm in Texas, and I'm not aware of any mandates on using regulated spray bodies, but it may be municipality specific, so I'll definitely check. Thanks again for your help.
Is there a way to approximate how much pressure is lost for each sprinkler head added? I assume just popping up takes some pressure out of the system. And do certain sprinklers cause less of a drop in pressure for each one added (rotors, impact, spray nozzles, rotating nozzles…)? I’ve got too little pressure in one of the zones in the house I bought as it has 11 R-Vans and a drip line all in one zone, starting about 100 feet from the irrigation water source.
Yes, you can estimate/calculate the pressure loss. Dynamic Pressure Loss (aka, when the water is moving) is a function of gallon per minute, and the size the pipe the water is traveling through + the distance the water travels. This type of pressure know has friction loss and there are standardized tables that you can use to calculate this.
Couple thoughts:
1 - Purchase a pressure gauge and test your pressure. You should test the static pressure on your home (not running), then test the dynamic pressure on the sprinkler while the system is running. This will help you understand what could be happening, and I'm happy to review the data with you. This is the gauge you will need: sprinklersupplystore.com/products/hunter-spray-head-pressure-gauge?variant=43673312777
2 - Your home pressure can change during the day if you are on City Water. Have you tried running this zone at different times and watching it?
3 - This zone may have a leak. It is a bit suspect that an installer would install a system that has a pressure problem. This problem likely developed after the install, caused by something. It would ideal to determine the cause.
4 - This zone valve may not be opening all of the way and therefore be restricting flow.
Just to help you better understand pressure friction loss, let me give you an example, and you can reference this other video as well (czcams.com/video/7UfDL2IlVMA/video.html):
Each R-VAN14 Nozzle, set to a 180 deg Arc, uses 0.73 gpm at 45psi. (see this performance chart www.rainbird.com/sites/default/files/media/documents/2020-09/r-van-nozzles-performance-charts.pdf)
If you have 11 x R-VAN14 this would be equal to 8gpm (0.73 x 11 nozzles).
You then take 8gpm (plus whatever your drip flow rate is) and use the following chart to calculate the friction loss, cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1987/5531/files/Hunter_Irrigation_Friction_Loss_Charts.pdf?v=1679586335
If you have 1-inch Class 200 PVC Pipe, the pressure loss is equal to 2.39 psi loss per 100 feet.
Keep in mind that each of you sprinkle nozzles may only use 0.73gpm so eliminating just one nozzle may have zero effect.
I suspect you have a leak, or a restriction in the pipe somewhere. Perhaps the drop tubing is cutting, and flowing a lot of water. Or perhaps tree roots have pinched the pipe somewhere.
very useful
Thanks, Sam!
What would happen is you push .5 gpm through this regulator that’s rated for 2-20 gpm? Would it still operate correctly?
Great question. If the regulator is rated for 2-20gpm it will not regulate the pressure at 0.50gpm. Is this for drip?
I'm dealing with a 37 zone, 3 program, community. The resident of one zone (on program C) removed a number of their sprinkler heads because they have plants that don't require much water. When the zone comes on now, their lawn and plants get watered to their liking but there is a lot of water shooting out of the back flow (by the controller) now that the common area floods. Any suggestions?
Hi Robert. This could be caused by a number of things, including high pressure, although is sounds like a back-pressure issue. Couple questions, 1) what type of backflow is this? 2) does the water eventually stop? You are welcome to send any pictures, etc. directly to us. Please visit our website and use the Contact Us form and we'll sync up. You can also schedule a technical support call with us.
Help! Any way I can shut the water supply by decreasing the pressure regulator??
Hi @Kali M. I hope you find the leak! Unfortunately, no. Locate where the water supply line exits your home, there should be a shutoff valve inside your home, or a shutoff valve attached to the backflow preventer on the outside.
@@Andy_Humphrey yes I found the water shut off valve to the house which shuts the irrigation system too. There is no backflow preventer just a pressure regulator. This is bad huh
Help i rerouted my valve to my drip system and now my solenoid is buzzing the sprinklers are still running good but i cant figure out why the solenoid is buzzi g
I have two zones and the zone one has a 30psi regulator and the pvc pipe flows water to the back to zone 2 and another valve box with another 30psi regulator .Here is the problem when zone one is complete it is quiet .When zone 2 is complete I hear a thump ? I have a plumber out and no problem .I live in Las Vegas where the water pressure is high .So do I need two pressure regulators ? Or should I go lower on the pressure regulator ?
Hi BMW - This could be pressure, however, it sounds like a fast-closing-valve could be causing water hammer, at that is the sound you are hearing. Did this just start happening? Some valves have a handle/screw in the middle that can be used to adjust the closing speed (this is referred to as a Flow Control handle). Make sure the Flow Control is all the way open.
The best approach is the test the water pressure of your home either inside at the source, or on a hose bib outside. You can find a pressure gauge locally or on our website. The static pressure reading will help you determine if the pressure regulator is required at all. Also, ask your plumber, they may have already tested the static pressure.
You are welcome to send any pictures, etc. directly to us. Please visit our website and use the Contact Us form and we'll sync up with you. You can also schedule a technical support call with us.
Could a pressure regulator help with flow? If my home is on a well and has a much lower flow rate than your typical home on public water could installing a pressure regulator allow me to install more sprinklers per zone?
Hi Adam. It is actually the opposite, lowering the pressure with a regulator would also lower the flow rate. It may not lower it much, however, it not increase. Flow rate is the key to calculating the number of sprinklers you can install per zone. Two tips: 1) test the static pressure with a pressure gauge. Depending on how your home is plumbed, you may have a water pressure tank that can be adjusted up. 2) use a bucket and time how long it takes to fill up, this will determine your flow rate (gpm)
You are welcome to send any pictures, etc. directly to us. Please visit our website and use the Contact Us form and we'll sync up. You can also schedule a technical support call with us.
Im using a pump thats rated for 45 psi and using .5 Netafim emitters and im still experiencing spraying..
And if I use a return line with a ball valve on the end they will do the same thing or not drip at all.
Do you have any suggestions to fix this? Thanks in advance
Interesting. Have you tested the pressure at the end of the line? I wonder if it’s not a pressure issue. Dirt/debris in the emitter can cause it to spray like that - do you have filtration?
My pressure regulator has water shooting out of the weep hole and I cannot figure why.
Hi Chandra. There any many different types of pressure regulars and I can't recall there being weep holes in any of the standard models. Can you send us a picture?
Mine too. Still hunting for a video explaining this. My guess is the incoming pressure is too high for the component or maybe the differential between the two is too great.