Step by Step Adding a Pressure Regulating Filter to An Irrigation Valve and Replacing a Valve
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
- This video shows the step-by-step process of adding a pressure reducing filter to an irrigation valve as needed for converting to a drip irrigation system for areas such as southern California where anti-siphon valves are used. It also shows how to replace a valve if needed.
Please note that the valves and overall setup depicted here are typical for areas like southern California (low elevation), where frost protection is not needed for the lines, and most single family residential homes use anti-siphon valves, which must be installed above the soil to function properly, so are not buried in valve boxes. If you are in another part of the country, standard irrigation system parts and installation details may differ.
CORRECTION: At minute 36 the video mentions that anti-siphon valves should be installed to be 1' above the highest level of the irrigation system connected to that valve, when that valve is operating. The correct height is 6" above the highest point, not 1'.
While potentially on its own, this video was created as a supplement to our Retrofitting Lawn Sprinklers for Waterwise and California Native Gardens online workshop video: • Retrofitting Lawn Spri... - Zábava
Thank you
Amazingly clear, thank you so much for a thorough and easy to follow guide
Very well done and clear. Easy to understand and see.
Thank you for posting this very informative video. I know what I'm doing this weekend.
Excellent video. Thanks.
Great video with a detailed description! Thank you
Great, now I will do mine.
This is exactly what I was looking for!
Great video. What would you have done if there were any leaks? That is my current problem.
Very informative . A little Mr. Rogers-esque but still very good info. thank you.
Your video is outstanding. I now feel like I can take this project on myself. I have a similar antisiphon valve set up. Will I need to use backflow preventers at each sprinkler riser on the zone or does the antisiphon valve for the zone prevent backflow? This is something that seldom is addressed in all of the great info out there about converting to a drip system.
Hello. If installed at the right height, the antiphon valve will prevent back flow. If for some reason, you cannot install as designed with the height of the valve at least 6" above the highest sprinkler when in operation, a back flow preventer somewhere else in the zone could be an option.
Thank you for the detailed video. Now I want to try this myself. One question about at 11:30 mark: why do you need to make two cuts, particularly I’m not understanding why the cut on the horizontal pipe is needed? Couldn’t you connect the new gray riser to the existing vertical pvc connection? Thanks!
Hi! You could do that, however, since white PVC is not UV stable, and over time will degrade and become brittle when exposed to sunlight, this is the perfect chance to connect the pressure regulating filter, then attach a grey PVC nipple (also called a riser). The grey pipe is considered "UV stable" and will not weaken in the sun like white PVC.
You could see it running?
Hi I just put bubblers in the front of my house and I got one vavle watering the backyard and the front but when I go to turn one the vavle the front hardly has any water pressure and suggestions
Good video. I do have a question, though. Why not use a union anywhere so that if a valve replacement is ever required, it would make it easier?
Great comment. You are absolutely correct, it would make future replacements easier. When installing a manifold from scratch, I'd definitely use a union. For this one, we were trying to keep the already long video as simple as possible. Also, for those just getting into plumbing, installing a union into a retrofit creates multiple other potential spots for leaks if all is not aligned and tightened correctly. If we do another valve installation or swap video in the future we will add that step! Thanks for they input!
I installed mine. Doesn’t seem to regulate. What’s the white button for?
His Gluing technique gives me anxiety.
Hi Alex. We'd love to know more details. While the video does not show wiping up the pipe to make a "pretty" looking finish, we believe the glueing to be perfectly functional. However, there is always more to learn. Might you be willing to take a moment to let us know how you would have done it differently and what about it makes you anxious? Thanks!
It’s actually 6” above the highest sprinkler when on. PVB is 12”. Take a backflow prevention class.
Thank you for the comment / correction. I absolutely misspoke when recording the video, and will note the error in the description and eventually re-edit to correct. I appreciate you taking the time to comment!
Really lacked explanation as to the how system is set up no over where lines run
Very confusing! No explanation as why things are done. Filter ? None of other lines have a filters? Also all valves exposed including electrical. I was always told valves need to be in valve boxes. Also the valves no protection for freezing. Also hand tightening lines? Just away to make sure they will leak. Waiting several minutes to look for leaks will not make sure of no leaks need to tighten properly!
Hi William. Sorry this was confusing to you. We have received lots of other good feedback from people fining this video helpful.
Much of this confusion, I believe, is due to regional differences, so thank you. I will add a note to the description that this is intended for areas that do not freeze and where anti-siphon valves are used. We are based in low-elevation southern California, where lines do not freeze, and the vast majority of residential properties do not have back flow preventers for the entire property, so each valve must be an "anti-siphon valve" which must be installed elevated as shown here, and not buried in a valve box.
Electrical remains exposed as well (and is very low voltage), so as long as proper outdoor wire nuts are used, as demonstrated, this is proper. We recommend hand tightening threaded connections to begin with because we find that far more homeowners will over tighten and damage connections, cause leaks, and ruin parts if we start with recommending using tools. Filters are not required on all lines. In our area, which gets water supplied though a city or special district water retailer, sprinkler zones generally do not need filters, so this video is specifically created to support people moving from standard sprinkler systems, which would not have a filter in most cases, over to a drip system, which would require a filter like this.
Would have been nice if you specify what area you are referring too. This would be unacceptable in area which has freezing temperatures.
No mention of each valve requiring check valve to avoid siphoning of water back in to domestic water. Not sure why one antisiphon valve would’ be acceptable for. Entire system ?
Also no mention of how all these zones are connected Thur the manifold which is buried underground. Should mention how all these zones are connected
The valves are surrounded via a mulch
no explanation as to why a mulch is necessary?
Great to have a lot detail but. Not giving an over explanation of the basics is also important
If you are going to hand tighten all threaded connections would be nice to say why you would not use wrench to do this. Everyone would use a pipe wrench hand tightened seems like you are forgetting without again no explanation. Too much discussion of minor details .
Also not mentioning that glue and primer are highly toxic and gac respirator and safety glass and gloves are recommended
Hello William,
I'm sorry this video was confusing to you. It was created to provide answers to the most common questions we get when people in our area are transitioning to drip irrigation. Your comments are well taken, and will be used to improve our videos in the future.
The anti-siphon valves have the built-in check function which is all that is needed in our area to prevent siphoning issues.
Much of this confusion, I believe, is due to regional differences, so thank you. I will add a note to the description that this is intended for areas that do not freeze and where anti-siphon valves are used. We are based in low-elevation southern California, where lines do not freeze, and the vast majority of residential properties do not have back flow preventers for the entire property, so each valve must be an "anti-siphon valve" which must be installed elevated as shown here, and not buried in a valve box.
Electrical remains exposed as well (and is very low voltage), so as long as proper outdoor wire nuts are used, as demonstrated, this is proper. We recommend hand tightening threaded connections to begin with because we find that far more homeowners will over tighten and damage connections, cause leaks, and ruin parts if we start with recommending using tools. Filters are not required on all lines. In our area, which gets water supplied though a city or special district water retailer, sprinkler zones generally do not need filters, so this video is specifically created to support people moving from standard sprinkler systems, which would not have a filter in most cases, over to a drip system, which would require a filter like this.