There have been comments concerning the fact that the BEST OF series videos were created several yrs. ago yet I have the current year noted in the title. The reason is that the facts haven't changed yet and when they do, I'll be sure to create a new video reflecting the new information. Secondly, to provide current/relevant information, the title must reflect the current year's date in it. Thanks for trusting me to provide current/relevant information for you. 🖖
I work for a school district as the irrigation tech, mostly dealing with in line valves. My two cents: Rainbirds get clogged and stuck way too often. Irritrols are good, Hunters are great, Superior brass are better. As for sprinklers in general: Rainbird. Controller/Timer: Hunter
That is awesome! Just a friendly note, I never say that RB valves aren't good, I prefer the others for the reasons that I list in the video. Thanks for watching and for your comment.
I just started learning about installing sprinkler systems and maintaining them. I found your utube videos very helpful. I would like to know about sprinkler systems. Do you have any suggestions so I can learn more?
Ben, my intention is to create a comprehensive library of videos and downloads on every aspect of this business including courses directed at folks like you to help you get started. I would pump these out faster but I am still working my business full time and this video creation is typically done on the weekends. I would like to speak with you about your startup if you wouldn't mind. Go to my website and email me. Thanks.
In many cases, mainly with 1" valves, the entire valve will be cheaper than the solenoid or diaphragm kit. At both of my local irrigation supply stores, both 1" Hunter and RainBird (PVB and PGA) are roughly 50% cheaper than purchasing the solenoid alone.
(I used PGA as an example because it's the cheaper of the models that uses the solenoid that's backwards compatible (with threaded bushing), as it doesn't work the other way, even though the threads match.
Corey, yes you're right. It's been like that for a long time, but if all I need is the solenoid or other parts, what do I do with the body when I have stripped it clean? A: throw it away. I am not a tree hugger, but I also try not to be wasteful too. I'd rather buy a bag of 5 diaphragms or box of 10 solenoids, etc. and charge accordingly than to be throwing stuff away. That's just me. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, though. They're always respectfully welcome.
I recommend using an ointment for wounds that doesn't have any ketchup in it.😅 Thank you for your video and recommendations reguarding the best brands to use (great video.)
Absolutely excellent video bud! Exactly the info I've been looking for. Thankyou! You had me laughing my ass off with the pics of your wife thrown in with the commentary; "is it worthy of being repaired or does it need to be replaced?" 🤣😂🤣😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I had to subscribe to your channel, you have great information and living in small town I have to get most of my information online... Anyways its looks like I'll be switching over to Hunter's in line valve! Thanks from Texas
Roel, Thanks for subscribing. Welcome aboard. I'm glad you're learning alot. Small town folks is part of the reason I created the Resources pages so you could have easy access to the pro grade products. Have you benefitted from them yet? Are there any videos that would be helpful for you for me to make? I will be passing thru TX in a couple wks on I-40.
@@SprinklerPros I'm just now looking at the resource page! From what I understand the regular pop up sprays are better than rotating trajectory sprays? And as far as video ideas maybe advice on selecting head spacing in certain areas that aren't so simple. You might have a video already but I still have a lot to watch 😂
Why didn't you review the Rain Bird PGA valve series? Also, in my opinion, the PE Series (PEB), valve series is comparable to the ICV, but with a much more reliable solenoid than the Hunter. What do you think?
On my channel I don't do comprehensive product comparisons, meaning that I don't compare every similar product from each manufacturer on a particular video. My comparisons are based on which products I have experienced in 37 years and what I prefer based on that experience. I explain some of my thoughts and reasoning in my videos and it's all based on my field experience. I don't have a carte blanche blind preference. I hope this helps. Best wishes from across the globe.
You mentioned placing the inline valves in a box in the ground, is it ok to place them above the ground say 2 foot or so. This allows easier maintenance for me. Got some back problems and hard to work that low.
Thank you for the video, with all the information and tips, I wanna replace my sprinkler valves (anti-siphon) to the Hunter brand per recommendation, however my existing ones from center to center (inlet and outlet) are 4.5” apart and the footprint of the hunter are 4”, don’t seem possible can make it fit easily, if there any options I can go with? The current ones are Lawn Genie, don’t seem there’s much options out there with 4.5” apart besides the one you don’t recommend which is the Jar Top from Orbit, please shed me some light, no idea what else options do I have. Thank you in advance!
That's great that you thought to measure it. Actually the 1/2" difference isn't enough to be concerned with. I can say that by experience. I've done plenty of those switches. A tip: the more length in vertical pipe you use, the greater flexibility to spread the pipes apart. Be sure to use schedule 40 or 80 for strength instead of thin-walled pipe. Does this help?
Love your videos! We switched from city water to a well in St. Augustine, FL.. It is ~90 deep but the filter consists of micro holes in the 1st 10' section of pipe. While the system was originally installed with Hunter valves and heads, what recommendation do you have for replacing the valves for "dirty" water?
Robert, Sorry for the delay. I've been swamped. If I'm understanding correctly, I would stick with the Hunter valves. Regarding the heads: I don't know which heads you're using. Rotor sprays, std. nozzles on popups, or MP Rotators? To get an reply, be sure to start a new thread.
I'm doing a clean install of 3 valves. I was going to install the inline variety, below ground in a box both for aesthetics and to lessen the risk of freezing. But I get the impression you prefer above ground installation, also not inline. Can you elaborate why that is?
Gary, sorry for the delay. I can't believe it's been 13 days since I've answered comments! It all depends on where you live/weather conditions. Out here on the sunny Central Coast of CA we don't get much freezing weather so anti-siphon valves (a/s) are pretty popular due to their ease of maintenance. If you need to replace one, you simply cut the vertical pipes and pop on a new one. The alternative is to dig up the entire box for one bad valve sometimes. Repairing one of those valves can be tricky down there too. Plus gophers can fill the boxes with dirt. That kinda stuff.
It seems like all my rain bird valves leak. Brand new. Just installed a 2" leaked right away. Hunter has been really good for valves. I do like the rainbird 5000 though
Its not uncommon for the top bonnet on a irrigation valve to leak. The hardware comes loose from the factory at times and it just needs snugged up. Where at on the valve are you having a leak?
I believe your issue with the sch.80 nipples threaded into the valves was caused by over tightening and not because of the thread pitch. I would never recommend someone to use a male adapter over a sch.80 toenipple. Male adapters are one of the worst fittings in the pvc fittings world. A properly installed sch.80 nipple, hand tightened then half turn with pipe wrench will not cause your valves to split. What caused your valves to split was someone using a pipe wrench or channel locks and threading the nipple all the way into the valve until it stopped.
We have a lawn genie anti-siphon valve that has issues. Can I replace it with the Hunter ASV? It's used for a pool fill valve, no wires on it for controller, just manually filling pool every week.
Tony, yes you can. The vertical on-center distance between risers is pretty much the same. If you don't ever anticipate wanting it to be automated you can use the Irritrol 2706PR 3/4" or 2709PR 1" manual valves. Be sure to not over-tighten them. If you use one of those you can also buy a Buckner-Superior SK-30 30" sprinkler valve key so you don't need to bend over to operate the valve. Let me know what you decide.
I have some old anti siphon vales, and I'm wondering about a way to test that backflow prevention is effective. Any tool available in the market? If not, can I make one myself? I noticed a couple of times in last month dirty water. I turned off my sprinkler system, and saw that water is clean after a day. I'm not sure if it was one of my valves or from the city. So, just thought I should test my valves if possible. Please, help. Thanks. alot
Mohammad, I don't know a way to test that. Frankly in 40 yrs, I've never heard of anyone actually having a back flow event. It's just a precaution. I'm not saying it can't happen, but I believe the method you used of stopping the irrigation water use for a specified time is probably the best idea I can think of. Let me know in a new comment thread if you deal with this again. I'm interested to hear.
what is the fitting for the hunter 1inch valve? the resource page is down. 1inch to 3/4 reducer whet's the thread i think in one of your videos you talked about breaking them because the thread was wrong thank you
I'm not sure what your question actually is? If you're going from 3/4" pipe to a 1" threaded valve, then it would be a 1" x 3/4" male adapter. Does that help?
thank you very much for the video and all the valuable information! I have a question about valves. I have a house with a front and a back yard. the pipeline from the city meter to the service box which is located near an electricity source is around 22 meters long. I designed the system in a way that I'll install the check valve right after the city meter and an irrigation branch. should I install the shut off valve and the master solenoid valve right after the the check valve or right before the sprinkler and the drip line solenoid valves?
@@SprinklerPros thanks for your reply! but now I understand that there will be around 20 meters of pipes with constant water in it. won't that cause any pressure? And also, should I separate the shut off valve from the master solenoid? where the shut off goes right after the check valve and the master solenoid goes right before the sprinkler valves?
I have a 4 1 inch nelson valves and one is leaking. i took it apart and suctioned out the opening with a vacuum. Still leaks. I cant find a replacement diaphram so im deciding to just replace it hopefully i dont run into issues
Sean, I am guessing your Nelson valves are inline valves vs anti-siphon valves? I don't know if Nelson diaphgrams are still available. I don't even see Nelson valves in stores anymore. Nelson has pretty much gone back to agriculture irrigation products so, yes, I would assume you many need to replace the valve. Where exactly is it leaking. At the bonnet seam? Under the solenoid? At the flow control stem? Google those items if you're not sure what I am referring to.
@SprinklerPros They are inline valves. They don't have flow control stems on them from what I can see. I'm pretty sure it's at the bonnet seam. I've got the valve box dug up and I'm running to the store to grab a Hunter PGV at your recommendation tomorrow. I've replaced just about everything in the system, half the heads, the backflow siphon, patched a cracked line. It's working much better, but every time I fix something, something else breaks. Hopefully, this is it. Fingers crossed. It's been a good learning experience. Thanks so much for your help!
Jill, I understand your thought regarding brass over plastic, but there are so many benefits of plastic valves over brass in our industry now that brass valves are normally only used in large heavy duty situations. I began in this industry when brass valves and brass popups were still installed so I have watched the evolution to plastic and the improvements since then. One of the biggest things behind cost of production is that plastic doesn't rust and corrode which is huge, especially with dirty water applications like well/pond/river/lake/creek water. I hope this helps. Any other questions?
Just installed a drip system with a timer but sometimes when it first starts it get clogged or something to do with the air I’ve determined. It’s a quick fix I just turn the water pressure up or turn the water on and off real quick. But that doesn’t do so well when the timer goes off and I’m not around. So I’ve think I need a air vacuum release valve maybe 2 because I have 2 zones. Any info on this topic or pro tip.
RL, The most common reason I see this is when the valve is at the bottom of a slope and the drip lines are above it on the slope. When the line turns off, the water gravitates back down the hill so the air fills the tubing. When the line is activated again, it now pushes all that air out as it displaces with water. Does this match your scenario? If so, I can give you some tips.
I currently use the Rainbird ASVF. Had to replace the guts once on one of the valves, but the parts were easy to find. My question is do the connection points on Hunter line up the same distance as the Rainbird so I could just swap out the Rainbird with Hunter as the rainbird fails over time?
Ken, today I measured them. The Hunter ASV is 4" on center and the RB is 3.75" OC but I typically don't have an issue getting a Hunter ASV to fit on the vertical pipes orphaned by an RB ASVF valve. I did it just this morning.
He doesn't recommend anything RainBird makes. I have been a licensed Irrigator for 22+ yrs. RainBird is the best hands down. He doesn't tell you this but the solenoid on the hunters are the biggest problem. When you try to open manually they often cross thread when re-tightened. Hunter is the 2nd most used for a reason. RainBird is better. But I have come to the decision this man has had some issue in the past with RB and will not give the viewer a fair opinion on the product.
@@hlsenterprises4477 thank you for the reply. I've used all brands of valves in the past 40 years and I'll stand by Rainbird. I've used the hunter once in awhile just to match what they already have on the job. I've never seen a problem with the hunter bleed or solenoid. I Have Seen the Rain Bird bleed deform and also I've changed more than a few of the Rainbird solenoid O-rings. I think they are both darn good. As long as you can continue to get parts for both of them it's a toss-up for me.
I have been asked to install a main valve and am leaning toward brass because it will probably go in the basement and will be the main valve. I am thinking durability because it will be placed indoors. And is it best to go behind the main shut-off, right after the meter, after the main shut-off, between the main shut-off and the valve manifolds, or does it make a difference? Thanks
Raymond, you're right in leaning toward the brass ball valve (not a gate valve). I wasn't quite following your options so I will answer you this way and hope it answers your question. It should be: water meter > tee to separate house water from irrigation > optional backflow device depending on your situation and what your local municipality wants > shutoff ball valve > irrigation valves. I believe it's best to have the shutoff/backflow as close to the irrigation valves as possible for convenience when servicing them. Did this help?
@@SprinklerPros Well sort of. As far as placement, when the 1" copper exits the basement, it immediately branches of to different valve areas, and to locate the valve outside would require re-piping that area with a lot of elbows, hence opportunities for more CFM and pressure loses. Inside, the main water shut off, a ball valve is located nearer to the ceiling, and 4-5 inches you are in the joist. squeezing a plastic or metal valve up there would be a challenge. Plastic interior is cheaper and my supplier, who is also an installer says that's the way to go. Brass valves are too expensive, and would add about $150 to $200 to the job with marginal benefit. I will run the options by the customer. Thanks again for your input.
What "Recourses link"? I am having trouble with well water sediment. When I added a sediment filter, it slowed everything down too much and would quickly clog. I'll have to remove it and go with a better valve system. (I have a HD special - orbit) Any advise?
In the Description section of all my video pages there is "Resources page: ..........(link). Respectfully, if the sediment filter is clogging fast I would think that it just needs to be cleaned out more often and it's doing its job. Is there more to know? What kind of sediment filter is it (a wye filter?) and where is it installed? Before the sprinkler valves? Metal screen or plastic? What brand is it?
Premature failure though they could last for many years. Once they fail, there's no point in attempting to repair them. If they're in the ground in a valve box, the labor is in digging it up and burying them so it's best to replace all of them at that time. Does that answer your question? Feel free to let me know the brand and model if you'd like a more concise assessment.
@@SprinklerPros Thanks for the answer? I replaced with the hunter PVG1”with hydro 3/4 bluLock tubing BluLock coupler and a bluLock 1’ to 3/4 to connect the poly tubing and added a 3/4 ball value to the line leading to zone 2 and zone 1. The problem I was having it was when zone one went on and off it was totally quiet. When zone two came on it was quiet but when it shut off I would hear a loud thump and I couldn’t figure out what that was from. Do you have any idea what that might’ve been
I'm grasping at experienced straws here. Any chance that the #1 wire is actually wired to the ground or common or master pump at the timer? Or wired together with #2 at the valves? It happens.
Thanks for making this video! I have two inline Orbit valves for my fish tank auto flush system, both leaked internally even after shutoff. Orbit valves are junk! I'm getting Hunter valves.
Choon, I'm glad it helped. Consider installing an inline filter before the valves to capture any possible contaminants that may interfere with the valves closing properly. Debris in the water, even a grain of sand, can get stuck under the diaphragm and keep it from closing, regardless of the brand of valve. You can take these valves apart and see if you find anything to clean out. 🐠🐟
My main auto shutoff valve "hammers". Do you have any cure for that or is there a main valve that opens more slowly and is less susceptible to hammering. I don't want to leave the main valve open all the time due to various suspect piping throughout the entire system . It was originally a hydraulic valve system that I converted to electronic. The hydraulic valves were buried throughout the yard. I now have two valve boxes. One with just two valves in the front yard, and the other box is in the back yard with 6 valves. The timer controls the main valve so the water is essentially shut off to mosr of the system when it is not operating. I have an anti hammer stand pipe installed in front of the main valve. I was thinking of putting one after it as well. The anit-hammer chamber didn't do much good in terms of controlling the "bang" when the system turns on.
IPA, I will attempt to help. First Q is what is the water pressure coming in to the system thru the main auto valve? What brand and model is that valve? Do you have a brass pressure regulator on the system? If so, where?
Reed, Yes it is the same. Thanks for ordering thru my Resources site linked in the Description section below the video. It will take you to an Amazon Prime retailer for that product. My Resources site uses affiliate links so I get a small commission on the sales. Thanks again!
EZ, a/s valves are so much easier to work on when needed. Out here we have gophers that fill the valve boxes of inline valves. Roots also can become a problem with inline valves. When an a/s valve needs to be replaced, I just need to cut the risers and install the new valve. When an inline valve needs to be replaced, the entire valve box needs to be dug up, roots and all. I just had to do that yesterday. Does that help?
Lol. Hunter valves do not handle any sort of debris. The solenoids fail more than any other valves including the cheapest. I would recommend Rain Bird and than Toro. I have had very little issues with Rainbird and they are as dependable as they get
I do irrigation maintenance; the Rain Bird valves are the ones that I replace the most, their solenoids don't last and after a few years opening them manually at the solenoid, the O ring fails, and it leaks. I prefer Hunter valves I have replaced three Hunter solenoids so far, I am in Texas.
Correct. I gave my reasons why in the video regarding the anti-siphon models ASVF. I'm not a fan of their valves and I've been working around them for decades. It's okay if you like them. I'm not bashing. It's just personal preference based on MY experience.
RainBird valve parts are readily available! In abundance! Maybe you're having a problem with those anti-siphons but those parts fit in-line valves like a glove! They are the only parts that you can find everywhere! You are correct on those jar tops... but you are so off the mark regarding Rain Bird!!! those DV100's are like the Energizer Bunny... you're not going to F with it for a very long time!
Dan, thank you for mentioning it, but I just tried it from the video page and it worked fine. Others are saying the same thing so I am guessing it's a browser thing. Maybe an add-on is blocking it? If you get it to work by tweaking something please let us know in a new comment so it goes to the top of the comments. Thank you.
Interesting. The field of yellow flowers is just down the road from me and most of the other shots are in our area but there are a few stock photos that are from who-knows-where.
Addy, that was a trick of mine to get folks to visit the gospel site. Just kidding! Others have said the same thing about that link, but I just checked it again from the video page again and it works fine. I am thinking that it's a browser thing. Possibly an add-on is blocking it or somethin'. I use Chrome. How about you? Try it from this: sprinklerpros.net/irrigation-valves/
Hunter solenoids are a pain in the butt. Threads are extremely likely to get crossed and the o ring falls off or breaks. Poor design. And you are the only irrigator in the world who would use an irritrol valve before a RB. Clearly there is a personal bias going against RB products. You cant deny they are the #1 brand sold and yet you have nothing positive to say for them. Shenanigans!
Just my 2 cents but I have found statements that say #1 selling brand doesnt make it the best product just the most sold. Quality usually cost alittle more . During the process of researching products to replace a 40 year old system most "pros" favor Hunter and Irritrol with pros and cons on both sides. Non mentioned and or recommended Rainbird, Orbit, or Toro. I agree these are probably the easily available option and for the most part a perfectly fine solution. I also started alot of videos installing anti siphon valves at or below ground, at which point I moved on to the next. That being said take the advice given pick what you want throw out the rest and move on. BTW wheres your video?
There have been comments concerning the fact that the BEST OF series videos were created several yrs. ago yet I have the current year noted in the title. The reason is that the facts haven't changed yet and when they do, I'll be sure to create a new video reflecting the new information. Secondly, to provide current/relevant information, the title must reflect the current year's date in it. Thanks for trusting me to provide current/relevant information for you. 🖖
Video of best tools to use , you may already have one but I'm new watching your video and I love watching them thanks for making all this video
That one is on the honkin' long list of videos coming up. Thanks for bringing it up.
Jose, your requested video is now live! This is actually the third installment in the Tool series. Have a great 2022.
I work for a school district as the irrigation tech, mostly dealing with in line valves.
My two cents:
Rainbirds get clogged and stuck way too often. Irritrols are good, Hunters are great, Superior brass are better.
As for sprinklers in general:
Rainbird.
Controller/Timer:
Hunter
Thanks for your 2cents.
All of my Rain Bird valves, solenoids and timer are near 30 years old. 👍
That is awesome! Just a friendly note, I never say that RB valves aren't good, I prefer the others for the reasons that I list in the video. Thanks for watching and for your comment.
Great video, delivery method is well understood! Thank you for making this! 2yrs old and still relevant.
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic comparison. Thanks for all your insight! May blessings overwhelm you and your family!
You're so welcome! Thank you for making the time to say so.
Thanks for the advice on the Hunter PGV. I'm going to use it on my home sprinkler system.
Awesome. Stay in touch.
@@SprinklerPros I 'm using the 1 inch valves and have it underground. So far so good all is working great!
Great honest review!
I just started learning about installing sprinkler systems and maintaining them. I found your utube videos very helpful. I would like to know about sprinkler systems. Do you have any suggestions so I can learn more?
Ben, my intention is to create a comprehensive library of videos and downloads on every aspect of this business including courses directed at folks like you to help you get started. I would pump these out faster but I am still working my business full time and this video creation is typically done on the weekends. I would like to speak with you about your startup if you wouldn't mind. Go to my website and email me. Thanks.
Subbed ! Returning the rain Bird getting the Hunter
In many cases, mainly with 1" valves, the entire valve will be cheaper than the solenoid or diaphragm kit. At both of my local irrigation supply stores, both 1" Hunter and RainBird (PVB and PGA) are roughly 50% cheaper than purchasing the solenoid alone.
(I used PGA as an example because it's the cheaper of the models that uses the solenoid that's backwards compatible (with threaded bushing), as it doesn't work the other way, even though the threads match.
Corey, yes you're right. It's been like that for a long time, but if all I need is the solenoid or other parts, what do I do with the body when I have stripped it clean? A: throw it away. I am not a tree hugger, but I also try not to be wasteful too. I'd rather buy a bag of 5 diaphragms or box of 10 solenoids, etc. and charge accordingly than to be throwing stuff away. That's just me. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, though. They're always respectfully welcome.
I recommend using an ointment for wounds that doesn't have any ketchup in it.😅 Thank you for your video and recommendations reguarding the best brands to use (great video.)
Needless2say, thanks. Ya, I wasn't in to cutting myself for the effect. Ketchup was the perfect prop.
Absolutely excellent video bud! Exactly the info I've been looking for. Thankyou! You had me laughing my ass off with the pics of your wife thrown in with the commentary; "is it worthy of being repaired or does it need to be replaced?" 🤣😂🤣😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
BD, Glad you liked it. Thanks for the fun comments. Ya, she's a good sport about participating when she can.
1:31 When my son was young he used to feed those yellow flowers to the chickens, he would laugh so hard.
Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure!
Thanks very informative
For valve protection in occasional freezing temps I've found ($25) gutter de-ice wire works ok.
I had to subscribe to your channel, you have great information and living in small town I have to get most of my information online... Anyways its looks like I'll be switching over to Hunter's in line valve! Thanks from Texas
Roel, Thanks for subscribing. Welcome aboard. I'm glad you're learning alot. Small town folks is part of the reason I created the Resources pages so you could have easy access to the pro grade products. Have you benefitted from them yet? Are there any videos that would be helpful for you for me to make? I will be passing thru TX in a couple wks on I-40.
@@SprinklerPros I'm just now looking at the resource page! From what I understand the regular pop up sprays are better than rotating trajectory sprays? And as far as video ideas maybe advice on selecting head spacing in certain areas that aren't so simple. You might have a video already but I still have a lot to watch 😂
Why didn't you review the Rain Bird PGA valve series? Also, in my opinion, the PE Series (PEB), valve series is comparable to the ICV, but with a much more reliable solenoid than the Hunter. What do you think?
On my channel I don't do comprehensive product comparisons, meaning that I don't compare every similar product from each manufacturer on a particular video. My comparisons are based on which products I have experienced in 37 years and what I prefer based on that experience. I explain some of my thoughts and reasoning in my videos and it's all based on my field experience. I don't have a carte blanche blind preference. I hope this helps. Best wishes from across the globe.
You mentioned placing the inline valves in a box in the ground, is it ok to place them above the ground say 2 foot or so. This allows easier maintenance for me. Got some back problems and hard to work that low.
You could but why not use anti-siphon valves then instead? They're made for above ground use.
Thank you for the video, with all the information and tips, I wanna replace my sprinkler valves (anti-siphon) to the Hunter brand per recommendation, however my existing ones from center to center (inlet and outlet) are 4.5” apart and the footprint of the hunter are 4”, don’t seem possible can make it fit easily, if there any options I can go with? The current ones are Lawn Genie, don’t seem there’s much options out there with 4.5” apart besides the one you don’t recommend which is the Jar Top from Orbit, please shed me some light, no idea what else options do I have. Thank you in advance!
That's great that you thought to measure it. Actually the 1/2" difference isn't enough to be concerned with. I can say that by experience. I've done plenty of those switches. A tip: the more length in vertical pipe you use, the greater flexibility to spread the pipes apart. Be sure to use schedule 40 or 80 for strength instead of thin-walled pipe. Does this help?
@@SprinklerPros thank you for the reply, will give it a try over the weekends then, hope everything will go smoothly!
Love your videos! We switched from city water to a well in St. Augustine, FL.. It is ~90 deep but the filter consists of micro holes in the 1st 10' section of pipe. While the system was originally installed with Hunter valves and heads, what recommendation do you have for replacing the valves for "dirty" water?
Robert, Sorry for the delay. I've been swamped. If I'm understanding correctly, I would stick with the Hunter valves. Regarding the heads: I don't know which heads you're using. Rotor sprays, std. nozzles on popups, or MP Rotators? To get an reply, be sure to start a new thread.
I'm doing a clean install of 3 valves. I was going to install the inline variety, below ground in a box both for aesthetics and to lessen the risk of freezing. But I get the impression you prefer above ground installation, also not inline. Can you elaborate why that is?
Gary, sorry for the delay. I can't believe it's been 13 days since I've answered comments! It all depends on where you live/weather conditions. Out here on the sunny Central Coast of CA we don't get much freezing weather so anti-siphon valves (a/s) are pretty popular due to their ease of maintenance. If you need to replace one, you simply cut the vertical pipes and pop on a new one. The alternative is to dig up the entire box for one bad valve sometimes. Repairing one of those valves can be tricky down there too. Plus gophers can fill the boxes with dirt. That kinda stuff.
It seems like all my rain bird valves leak. Brand new. Just installed a 2" leaked right away. Hunter has been really good for valves. I do like the rainbird 5000 though
Which model number of RB valves have you had the trouble with? Where on the valve do they leak?
Its not uncommon for the top bonnet on a irrigation valve to leak. The hardware comes loose from the factory at times and it just needs snugged up. Where at on the valve are you having a leak?
Hola from Michoacán
hola from San Luis Obispo
I believe your issue with the sch.80 nipples threaded into the valves was caused by over tightening and not because of the thread pitch. I would never recommend someone to use a male adapter over a sch.80 toenipple. Male adapters are one of the worst fittings in the pvc fittings world. A properly installed sch.80 nipple, hand tightened then half turn with pipe wrench will not cause your valves to split. What caused your valves to split was someone using a pipe wrench or channel locks and threading the nipple all the way into the valve until it stopped.
We have a lawn genie anti-siphon valve that has issues. Can I replace it with the Hunter ASV? It's used for a pool fill valve, no wires on it for controller, just manually filling pool every week.
Tony, yes you can. The vertical on-center distance between risers is pretty much the same. If you don't ever anticipate wanting it to be automated you can use the Irritrol 2706PR 3/4" or 2709PR 1" manual valves. Be sure to not over-tighten them. If you use one of those you can also buy a Buckner-Superior SK-30 30" sprinkler valve key so you don't need to bend over to operate the valve. Let me know what you decide.
I have some old anti siphon vales, and I'm wondering about a way to test that backflow prevention is effective. Any tool available in the market? If not, can I make one myself? I noticed a couple of times in last month dirty water. I turned off my sprinkler system, and saw that water is clean after a day. I'm not sure if it was one of my valves or from the city. So, just thought I should test my valves if possible. Please, help. Thanks. alot
Mohammad, I don't know a way to test that. Frankly in 40 yrs, I've never heard of anyone actually having a back flow event. It's just a precaution. I'm not saying it can't happen, but I believe the method you used of stopping the irrigation water use for a specified time is probably the best idea I can think of. Let me know in a new comment thread if you deal with this again. I'm interested to hear.
what is the fitting for the hunter 1inch valve? the resource page is down. 1inch to 3/4 reducer whet's the thread i think in one of your videos you talked about breaking them because the thread was wrong thank you
I'm not sure what your question actually is? If you're going from 3/4" pipe to a 1" threaded valve, then it would be a 1" x 3/4" male adapter. Does that help?
thank you very much for the video and all the valuable information! I have a question about valves. I have a house with a front and a back yard. the pipeline from the city meter to the service box which is located near an electricity source is around 22 meters long. I designed the system in a way that I'll install the check valve right after the city meter and an irrigation branch. should I install the shut off valve and the master solenoid valve right after the the check valve or right before the sprinkler and the drip line solenoid valves?
Mai, I would go with just before the sprinkler valves.
@@SprinklerPros thanks for your reply! but now I understand that there will be around 20 meters of pipes with constant water in it. won't that cause any pressure?
And also, should I separate the shut off valve from the master solenoid? where the shut off goes right after the check valve and the master solenoid goes right before the sprinkler valves?
I have a 4 1 inch nelson valves and one is leaking. i took it apart and suctioned out the opening with a vacuum. Still leaks.
I cant find a replacement diaphram so im deciding to just replace it hopefully i dont run into issues
Sean, I am guessing your Nelson valves are inline valves vs anti-siphon valves? I don't know if Nelson diaphgrams are still available. I don't even see Nelson valves in stores anymore. Nelson has pretty much gone back to agriculture irrigation products so, yes, I would assume you many need to replace the valve. Where exactly is it leaking. At the bonnet seam? Under the solenoid? At the flow control stem? Google those items if you're not sure what I am referring to.
@SprinklerPros They are inline valves.
They don't have flow control stems on them from what I can see.
I'm pretty sure it's at the bonnet seam. I've got the valve box dug up and I'm running to the store to grab a Hunter PGV at your recommendation tomorrow.
I've replaced just about everything in the system, half the heads, the backflow siphon, patched a cracked line. It's working much better, but every time I fix something, something else breaks. Hopefully, this is it. Fingers crossed.
It's been a good learning experience. Thanks so much for your help!
What about the orbit brass valves, seems like metal would be better than plastic, no?
Jill, I understand your thought regarding brass over plastic, but there are so many benefits of plastic valves over brass in our industry now that brass valves are normally only used in large heavy duty situations. I began in this industry when brass valves and brass popups were still installed so I have watched the evolution to plastic and the improvements since then. One of the biggest things behind cost of production is that plastic doesn't rust and corrode which is huge, especially with dirty water applications like well/pond/river/lake/creek water.
I hope this helps. Any other questions?
Just installed a drip system with a timer but sometimes when it first starts it get clogged or something to do with the air I’ve determined. It’s a quick fix I just turn the water pressure up or turn the water on and off real quick. But that doesn’t do so well when the timer goes off and I’m not around. So I’ve think I need a air vacuum release valve maybe 2 because I have 2 zones. Any info on this topic or pro tip.
RL, The most common reason I see this is when the valve is at the bottom of a slope and the drip lines are above it on the slope. When the line turns off, the water gravitates back down the hill so the air fills the tubing. When the line is activated again, it now pushes all that air out as it displaces with water. Does this match your scenario? If so, I can give you some tips.
I currently use the Rainbird ASVF. Had to replace the guts once on one of the valves, but the parts were easy to find. My question is do the connection points on Hunter line up the same distance as the Rainbird so I could just swap out the Rainbird with Hunter as the rainbird fails over time?
Ken, today I measured them. The Hunter ASV is 4" on center and the RB is 3.75" OC but I typically don't have an issue getting a Hunter ASV to fit on the vertical pipes orphaned by an RB ASVF valve. I did it just this morning.
@@SprinklerPros Thanks so much for your response. I'm surprised that you don't issues with the fit being different by a 1/4"
Nice video. What is it about the Rainbird 1in DV that keeps it from the top of your list?
Thank you Bill. Kindly, I explained that in the video.
He doesn't recommend anything RainBird makes. I have been a licensed Irrigator for 22+ yrs. RainBird is the best hands down. He doesn't tell you this but the solenoid on the hunters are the biggest problem. When you try to open manually they often cross thread when re-tightened. Hunter is the 2nd most used for a reason. RainBird is better. But I have come to the decision this man has had some issue in the past with RB and will not give the viewer a fair opinion on the product.
@@hlsenterprises4477 thank you for the reply. I've used all brands of valves in the past 40 years and I'll stand by Rainbird. I've used the hunter once in awhile just to match what they already have on the job. I've never seen a problem with the hunter bleed or solenoid. I Have Seen the Rain Bird bleed deform and also I've changed more than a few of the Rainbird solenoid O-rings. I think they are both darn good. As long as you can continue to get parts for both of them it's a toss-up for me.
I have been asked to install a main valve and am leaning toward brass because it will probably go in the basement and will be the main valve. I am thinking durability because it will be placed indoors. And is it best to go behind the main shut-off, right after the meter, after the main shut-off, between the main shut-off and the valve manifolds, or does it make a difference? Thanks
Raymond, you're right in leaning toward the brass ball valve (not a gate valve). I wasn't quite following your options so I will answer you this way and hope it answers your question. It should be: water meter > tee to separate house water from irrigation > optional backflow device depending on your situation and what your local municipality wants > shutoff ball valve > irrigation valves. I believe it's best to have the shutoff/backflow as close to the irrigation valves as possible for convenience when servicing them. Did this help?
@@SprinklerPros Well sort of. As far as placement, when the 1" copper exits the basement, it immediately branches of to different valve areas, and to locate the valve outside would require re-piping that area with a lot of elbows, hence opportunities for more CFM and pressure loses. Inside, the main water shut off, a ball valve is located nearer to the ceiling, and 4-5 inches you are in the joist. squeezing a plastic or metal valve up there would be a challenge. Plastic interior is cheaper and my supplier, who is also an installer says that's the way to go. Brass valves are too expensive, and would add about $150 to $200 to the job with marginal benefit. I will run the options by the customer. Thanks again for your input.
I have an old system that has Rainbird AS 3/4”. Does the Hunter AS valve have the same spacing? Or do I need Rainbird valve?
Ty
The spacing is close enough. I do that all the time.
What "Recourses link"? I am having trouble with well water sediment. When I added a sediment filter, it slowed everything down too much and would quickly clog. I'll have to remove it and go with a better valve system. (I have a HD special - orbit)
Any advise?
In the Description section of all my video pages there is "Resources page: ..........(link). Respectfully, if the sediment filter is clogging fast I would think that it just needs to be cleaned out more often and it's doing its job. Is there more to know? What kind of sediment filter is it (a wye filter?) and where is it installed? Before the sprinkler valves? Metal screen or plastic? What brand is it?
I know that Rainbird makes auto self cleaning filters but they are expensive.
What issues will occur with cheap sprinkler valve that the landscape and home builders use ?
Premature failure though they could last for many years. Once they fail, there's no point in attempting to repair them. If they're in the ground in a valve box, the labor is in digging it up and burying them so it's best to replace all of them at that time. Does that answer your question? Feel free to let me know the brand and model if you'd like a more concise assessment.
@@SprinklerPros Thanks for the answer? I replaced with the hunter PVG1”with hydro 3/4 bluLock tubing BluLock coupler and a bluLock 1’ to 3/4 to connect the poly tubing and added a 3/4 ball value to the line leading to zone 2 and zone 1. The problem I was having it was when zone one went on and off it was totally quiet. When zone two came on it was quiet but when it shut off I would hear a loud thump and I couldn’t figure out what that was from. Do you have any idea what that might’ve been
I'm grasping at experienced straws here. Any chance that the #1 wire is actually wired to the ground or common or master pump at the timer? Or wired together with #2 at the valves? It happens.
Can I connect hunter valve with Irritrol controller?
Yes. You can connect any valve to any controller. Brand matching is not needed.
Thanks for making this video! I have two inline Orbit valves for my fish tank auto flush system, both leaked internally even after shutoff. Orbit valves are junk! I'm getting Hunter valves.
Choon, I'm glad it helped. Consider installing an inline filter before the valves to capture any possible contaminants that may interfere with the valves closing properly. Debris in the water, even a grain of sand, can get stuck under the diaphragm and keep it from closing, regardless of the brand of valve. You can take these valves apart and see if you find anything to clean out. 🐠🐟
My main auto shutoff valve "hammers". Do you have any cure for that or is there a main valve that opens more slowly and is less susceptible to hammering. I don't want to leave the main valve open all the time due to various suspect piping throughout the entire system . It was originally a hydraulic valve system that I converted to electronic. The hydraulic valves were buried throughout the yard. I now have two valve boxes. One with just two valves in the front yard, and the other box is in the back yard with 6 valves. The timer controls the main valve so the water is essentially shut off to mosr of the system when it is not operating. I have an anti hammer stand pipe installed in front of the main valve. I was thinking of putting one after it as well. The anit-hammer chamber didn't do much good in terms of controlling the "bang" when the system turns on.
IPA, I will attempt to help. First Q is what is the water pressure coming in to the system thru the main auto valve? What brand and model is that valve? Do you have a brass pressure regulator on the system? If so, where?
Is ordering the Hunter ASV off Amazon the same product? I live in Hawaii so free shipping with Prime is very crucial for me
Reed,
Yes it is the same. Thanks for ordering thru my Resources site linked in the Description section below the video. It will take you to an Amazon Prime retailer for that product. My Resources site uses affiliate links so I get a small commission on the sales. Thanks again!
Stay away from Hunter. Pay the extra money for Rainbird.
You need to start using Toro brand, they are simply the best out there.
Gary, I'm glad you like them.
Why do we use Antisiphon valves?
EZ, a/s valves are so much easier to work on when needed. Out here we have gophers that fill the valve boxes of inline valves. Roots also can become a problem with inline valves. When an a/s valve needs to be replaced, I just need to cut the risers and install the new valve. When an inline valve needs to be replaced, the entire valve box needs to be dug up, roots and all. I just had to do that yesterday. Does that help?
Lol. Hunter valves do not handle any sort of debris. The solenoids fail more than any other valves including the cheapest. I would recommend Rain Bird and than Toro. I have had very little issues with Rainbird and they are as dependable as they get
I do irrigation maintenance; the Rain Bird valves are the ones that I replace the most, their solenoids don't last and after a few years opening them manually at the solenoid, the O ring fails, and it leaks. I prefer Hunter valves I have replaced three Hunter solenoids so far, I am in Texas.
I noticed you didnt recommend a single Rainbird valve.
Correct. I gave my reasons why in the video regarding the anti-siphon models ASVF. I'm not a fan of their valves and I've been working around them for decades. It's okay if you like them. I'm not bashing. It's just personal preference based on MY experience.
RainBird valve parts are readily available! In abundance! Maybe you're having a problem with those anti-siphons but those parts fit in-line valves like a glove! They are the only parts that you can find everywhere! You are correct on those jar tops... but you are so off the mark regarding Rain Bird!!! those DV100's are like the Energizer Bunny... you're not going to F with it for a very long time!
No all metal options?
I review what I use and what is common in my area here on the CA Central Coast. Brass valves are extremely rare here.
Is K rain a brand that's good?
I don't use or promote K rain.
No indeed
RainBird doesnt want to be in the parts business??? Lol. Ever heard of Ewing?
resources link not working
Dan, thank you for mentioning it, but I just tried it from the video page and it worked fine. Others are saying the same thing so I am guessing it's a browser thing. Maybe an add-on is blocking it? If you get it to work by tweaking something please let us know in a new comment so it goes to the top of the comments. Thank you.
Fimco
The pictures you show do not look like California to me
Interesting. The field of yellow flowers is just down the road from me and most of the other shots are in our area but there are a few stock photos that are from who-knows-where.
Why does the gospel link work, but the sprinkler resource valve doesn't? I don't see Jesus, Moses, or Abraham coming to fix my sprinklers.
Addy, that was a trick of mine to get folks to visit the gospel site. Just kidding! Others have said the same thing about that link, but I just checked it again from the video page again and it works fine. I am thinking that it's a browser thing. Possibly an add-on is blocking it or somethin'. I use Chrome. How about you? Try it from this: sprinklerpros.net/irrigation-valves/
Pp
Hunter solenoids are a pain in the butt. Threads are extremely likely to get crossed and the o ring falls off or breaks. Poor design. And you are the only irrigator in the world who would use an irritrol valve before a RB. Clearly there is a personal bias going against RB products. You cant deny they are the #1 brand sold and yet you have nothing positive to say for them. Shenanigans!
I thought the same after the rotary nozzle comparison a while back. Still good videos though
Just my 2 cents but I have found statements that say #1 selling brand doesnt make it the best product just the most sold. Quality usually cost alittle more . During the process of researching products to replace a 40 year old system most "pros" favor Hunter and Irritrol with pros and cons on both sides. Non mentioned and or recommended Rainbird, Orbit, or Toro. I agree these are probably the easily available option and for the most part a perfectly fine solution. I also started alot of videos installing anti siphon valves at or below ground, at which point I moved on to the next. That being said take the advice given pick what you want throw out the rest and move on. BTW wheres your video?