DIY guide - 2014 Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDI: Change the drive belt, tensioner and pulleys
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- čas přidán 21. 02. 2022
- This is a guide on how to change the drive (accessory / poly-V / serpentine) belt, its tensioner and all 3 idler pulleys used by the 2014-2016 Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDI. The owner's manual suggests checks every 30,000 km or 2 years and replacement should occur when there are signs of wear on the components. In my case, I did notice medium wear on the components after about 154,000 km so a change was clearly in order. I used a 6PK2413 Gates belt (which replaced the original 6PK2411 Gates belt on the car), an INA tensioner (which was, in fact, also made by Gates as it turned out), 2 INA idler pulleys and one SKF pulley (because I could not find an INA one to buy). I aimed to work around the right-side engine mount rather than jacking up the engine and removing it; this worked, but there was definitely some struggle for space in this case.
The OE part numbers for the components I've used are as follows:
- Drive belt: 252122F310
- Drive belt tensioner: 252812F000
- Idler 1: 2528727060
- Idler 2: 252872F000
- Idler 3: 252882F000
Disclaimer: This video was made in the hope that it will be useful to other DYI-ers that work on the same vehicle model. The author of the video is not responsible for any kind of personal injury, property damage etc. that may arise if anybody tries to perform the same job on an identical or otherwise similar vehicle based on the contents of the video. Every DIY operation performed on your vehicle poses direct or indirect safety risks to you and those around you. Before attempting any such DIY job, please make sure that you have all the necessary tools, support and confidence to see it through successfully. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
"Very informative video! It helped me understand how to diagnose issues and determine which parts need replacement. The step-by-step instructions on how to remove and install parts in the right order were especially helpful. In my case, I have a pulley attached to a steering pump, which is still the same as the diagram you created. Keep up the great work on your channel!"
Thank you very much! It makes me very happy when I receive comments like yours and this keeps me motivated to create more content! 😄
Excellent video, very detailed and informative, many thanks.
Thanks for the very good video.
Excellent video bro, you saved my life xD
Glad to help out 😄
Fabulous video, I have the same engine with a slightly different setup (from a VQ Kia Grand Carnival). Instead of the idler at the top right, I have a power steering pump, and the belt is a bit longer. At around 250,000km my harmonic balancer let go, it just split where the rubber meets the input to the balancer. Apparently a fairly common issue on the D4HB engine. I noticed your new tensioner has some minor vibration, I changed mine due to excessive vibration, but it didn't fix anything. Very confused. The only thing I can think of is my new Dayco tensioner is faulty? I might go source a gates or OEM replacement I think.
Glad you liked the video! A little vibration in the tensioner is fine, but if it's too much it is usually an indicator of a faulty tensioner. OEM, or ideally OE if the budget allows, are the best choices since the parts are made to the vehicle manufacturer's exact technical specifications rather than copied.
Sehr gut video , ich habe alles geckugt, vielen Dank.
Gern geschehen!
Awesome guides, many thanks once again for taking the time to film and share the knowledge! I usually check your channel when I want to work something on my car. I'm planning this operation, ordering the parts now and I am wandering if I could change the water pump when I do this. Not sure if this is doable at home. Have you changed yours yet? thanks!
I'm really glad you find my videos useful! I haven't changed the water pump on our Sportage yet since it's showing no signs of issues, but here are the steps for replacing it: www.kispmanual.com/water_pump_repair_procedures-509.html. Hopefully there's enough space to replace the pump without needing to remove the engine mount, but if you do need to remove it here are the torque values: www.kispmanual.com/engine_mounting_components_and_components_location-490.html. Hope it helps! 🙂
Thank you a very good Video Can I ask you to please add the part numbers of all of the items that were used
Ollie from Sydney Australia
Hello! Sure, I've added the OE part numbers in the video's description.
Nice video. Have you replaced the water pump yet? Need to do mine (T-GDI 2.0) as it's noisy in freezing winter temps and goes away after a few minutes. It's silent during the warmer months. Probably the bearings on their way out. On the 2.0 T-GDI there are only 2 Idler pullies + the tensioner for some reason.
No, I haven't. I checked it when I replaced the belt and it seemed fine. It's still going strong on our Sportage, with no noise or leaks so far.
Hi I have a 2017 Sportage cdti AWD we’re did you get the parts from?
Hi! I usually buy the parts from a local Romanian parts store chain, www.autokarma.ro. But a good alternative is www.autodoc.co.uk, which is present in many countries and has good prices and offers as well.
A question if you don’t mind and help me with. I recently changed the belt on a Kia 1.6 GDI and i used a KIA main dealer belt which is made by Bando and i noticed a little movement on the new belt unlike the old belt. I also noticed some movement n the new belt you fitted, is that normal? Many thanks once again for the video.
If you're referring to that very small side-to-side motion of the belt on the second idler pulley, that's not a cause for concern. That's about 1 - 2 mm of side motion. The car's been running like this with the new belt for 4 months now with absolutely no issues.
@@TheMissingBolt Many thanks for the reply and look forward to upcoming videos.
What about automatic gearbox oil change? I am close to 90.000 km, but same year as yours. Did you already change it? Thanks
I haven’t changed the gearbox oil yet, but I’m planning to do it in July or August. I’ll definitely make a video with the entire procedure.
Oh , that is nice , I can t wait for it 😅
hi friend i need a favor. I have a kia sportage ql from 2016 i haven´t the workshop manual. I need to change timing belt and its pulleys more alternator pulley. Could you send me the torque of these? I have the tensioner torque but the not the others pulleys.
Regards!!!!!
Hi! What engine and transmission do you have?
Hello, really nice and detailed videos :) . I think I have the same car as yours: 2015 Kia Sportage 2.0CRDI 184HP Automatic. I saw that you have a 9.3L/100km average. Mine has a 12L/100km average on the last 780km. (500km city only). From tank to tank (city only), I got an average of 13.5L/100km. Do you think it is OK? I have 150k km and the engine seems OK-no leaks around injectors, no dirt.
Yes, it is indeed the same car. Honestly, 13.5L / 100 km from tank to tank is OK if the city you're driving in is Bucuresti or Iasi or Cluj etc. 😃We're getting 9.3 because about 2/3 of all the driven km are extra-urban and the rest are in Bucuresti. The 6-speed automatic on the Sportage gen. III is not very fuel efficient for city driving, unfortunately.
@@TheMissingBolt Thank you, the average is for Suceava .. which became a small Bucharest lately :). I cleaned the MAF this weekend and I added a can of Liqui Moly 2186. Maybe the average will go down a bit.
I have the same model, average 8.8 L/100 km, but only on display( did not checked from tank to tank). Same engine, 2.0 Crdi 184 hp automatic, 87.000 km, 8 years old. Driving in Bucuresti.
@@alexdell84 The official town average given by Kia is 9.1l/100km. How do you manage to get below that? :)
@@randrei1207 Actually I did not reset the average consumption at all in a very long time, so my 8.8 L/ 100 km is for combined city/highway/ Valea Prahovei 😬
Thank you!!. I have 2013 Kia Sportage gasoline. Although it doesn't have so many kilometers, it has its age. Is it advisable to change the belts because of its age? I subscribe.
Mine is a 2014, so not much younger. The belt's rubber deteriorates with time as well, not just with mileage. So I would definitely consider changing the belt at this point. And while you're at it, it makes sense to also change (or at least, inspect) the idlers.
@@TheMissingBolt Thank you for your reply. Please a tutorial on changing rear differential oil. Thanks in advance.👍
@@iro0t626 It’s coming soon (in a couple of months from now) 😊.
Please may I know Kia Sportage sl 2013 engine belt number
For the Sportage with the 2.0 diesel engine, I've added the drive belt's OE code in the video description, namely 252122F310. For other engines it may be different, so you need to check with a Kia dealer with your car's VIN number. As for the engine timing, all gen. 3 Sportages use a maintenance-free timing chain.
Urmăresc cu interes filmulețele dvs având aceeași mașină cu același motor diesel CRDI de 2.0 (din 2013), dar nu știu de unde ați aflat acele valori de strângere ale șuruburilor, că eu oricît am căutat nu le-am găsit nicicum, mai exact nu am găsit nicăieri acel manual de reparație. Dacă vă rog, i-mi puteți sugera unde să o caut? Momentan trebuie să schimb fulia de pe arborele cotit (cel cu inserție de cauciuc) dar nu știu la ce valoare să strâng înapoi șurubul.
Mulțumesc
Buna ziua! Eu folosesc foarte mult manualul disponibil online le www.kispmanual.com/kia_sportage_sl_service_repair_manual-482.html. Informatiile legate de cureaua de accesorii sunt disponibile pe pagina legata de inlocuirea distributiei: www.kispmanual.com/timing_chain_repair_procedures-494.html. Pentru surubul fuliei de pe arbore (crankshaft pulley (C)) aveti cuplul de 166.6 ~ 176.4N.m (17.0 ~ 18.0kgf.m, 122.9 ~ 130.1lb-ft).
Mulțumesc mult pt informație! Eu inițial am crezut că această carte este numai pentru motorul pe benzina, dar se pare că m-am înșelat. Mulțumesc din nou pentru îndrumare!
@@robertszep365 Cu multa placere!🙂
I've noticed a rattle on mine. I hope it's not the chain. I don't see how it could be as it's got full service history and only on 70k
Someone said it could be the pulleys on the aux belt.
Ours clocked over 185K and we have no rattle on the timing chain, so it's unlikely it's the chain in your case. However, the chain and tensioner do suffer greater wear if the oil interval is too long - one of the reasons why I always change the oil no later than 10K km. You can test if it's the auxiliary belt or pulleys relatively easily, by taking the belt off and running the engine for a a good couple of seconds. If the rattle disappears, you need to check each pulley by hand, including the alternator, AC compressor and water pump.
You did not show how you put on the belt
I showed on paper how the belt is supposed to go. I didn't have a good angle to actually film the belt installation, but based on the diagram it's a very simple operation to do.
its like fixxing cars with Borat ....
Well great success then
Very nice! I like! 😁