DIY guide - 2014 Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDI: Change and flush the automatic transmission fluid
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2023
- This guide covers 2 distinct jobs for our Kia Sportage's 6-speed automatic transmission:
- (1) a single fluid change (also known as a drain and fill), which should be performed every 3 - 4 years or 50,000 km at the most and which requires 3.7 - 4 L of new transmission oil
- (2) a full fluid flush through the transmission's oil cooler lines, which should be performed in certain circumstances (car with unknown previous history, coolant mixing with the transmission fluid or transmission fluid brand changing) and which requires 10 - 11 L of new transmission oil
The needed components and OE codes are as follows:
- Plastic breather / eye-bolt: 452843B010
- Level plug gasket: 452853B010
- Drain plug washer: 2151311000
- Fluid: OE Hyundai-Kia or equivalent of type SP-IV
Disclaimer: This video was made in the hope that it will be useful to other DYI-ers that work on the same vehicle model. The author of the video is not responsible for any kind of personal injury, property damage etc. that may arise if anybody tries to perform the same job on an identical or otherwise similar vehicle based on the contents of the video. Every DIY operation performed on your vehicle poses direct or indirect safety risks to you and those around you. Before attempting any such DIY job, please make sure that you have all the necessary tools, support and confidence to see it through successfully. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Your videos are excellent, you helped me understand processes more deeply including the small details what are the "pure" mechanics won't tell and/or won't do (regardless how important those detalis are). 💯
Trebuie sa vin cu cateva lazi de bere😂..De cand am Sportage,tot ce am schimbat a fost cu clipurile tale.Multumesc!
Haha! Ma bucur mult ca ti-au fost de folos! Am cea mai mare bucurie cand primesc comment-uri ca al tau! 😄
I really appreciate your wide explanation waitin more work on the sportage 👍
Glad you liked it! There's definitely more to come!
Excellent video. You did a great job explaining the drain and flush methods for an automatic transmission. I’ll be doing my Santa Fe soon and I’ve seen many fluid changes and yours is one of the best. Thanks.
Thank you very much! Glad you found the video helpful!
I really appreciate your explanation waitin more work . I a new Sportage owner
I'm glad you liked the video! There are more to come!
Great video and this is the proper way
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video!
Perfect video :) Thank you
You're welcome, I'm glad you found it useful!
Thank you sir, you are very skilled
You're very welcome, I'm glad you liked the video!
@@TheMissingBolt Please I want your WhatsApp number
Goog video!
Thank you very much!
Nice video
Thank you!
Nice work. If remove level port on side that could help remove air as you pour fluid in
That sounds like a good idea! I'll try it out the next time I service the box! Thanks for the tip!
Very good video, like others... Next time I will ask for a replacement of the timing chain ;-).
Thanks! I was actually thinking about doing the timing chain at some point in the future, but since at the moment there's absolutely nothing wrong with the existing one, it's not a job that I'll be tackling in the near future, unfortunately. However, I do have some other jobs for the Sportage that I hope to publish soon, so stay tuned! 😁
@@TheMissingBolt Yes I understand. And won't you also service the rear differential?
@@Hardyno I already did, both the rear differential and the transfer case. See czcams.com/video/UyaJqAd3KlY/video.html.
Great video! 👍 However what makes me think though is the fact that in the service manual it's not specified about the procedure of filling back the A/T whether with the engine on or off, cause indeed there is a difference of volume in the end.
Yes, it's about 1L difference with the engine on vs. off. However, the online manual page www.kispmanual.com/fluid_repair_procedures-696.html states at step (3) to start the engine before performing steps (6) and (7) (the fluid level check), so it's fairly clear that the leveling should be done with the engine on. As a parallel, the ZF 8HP box from the Range Rover also explicitly requires the engine to be on when checking the level.
Right, so my thought was to start the engine just to warm up the oil, but indeed there is no step after that to mention to stop the engine so you can fill up the transmission. Thanks for clarification! 🤝
@@sorinrista4831 Waiting for the oil to warm up with the engine idling works, but it will take too long and induce unnecessary wear on the engine (same argument as not letting a cold engine idle for too long). It's much quicker and overall better for the car to just drive the car around the block for some time - the A6LF2 transmission doesn't lock up the torque converter at low speeds, so slow driving will put more heat into the fluid, helping it to warm up quicker.
Great work! How is your opinion on Ravenol SP IV ATF?
Immediately after replacing the old fluid with Ravenol's SP-IV, I did feel the box was slightly smoother. It's hard to say if this smoothness comes from Ravenol or simply from the fact that old oil was replaced with fresh oil (I'm inclined to believe the latter), but from that point on up until the moment we sold the car, we've had no issues with the box and it was behaving almost like new.
I believe you can unplug one of the coolant lines to allow for breathing, then you can pour without risk of making a mess.
An absolute gem of a video -- loved the math part as well, was looking to create a spreadsheet of my own, you saved me the trouble.
O sa-mi fac singur reviza la Sportage-ul achizitionat recent, mersi mult pentru efort!
L.E. De unde ai comandat oare cele 3 piese de schimb (cu codurile OE din description)?
Thank you for your lovely comment, I'm glad you found it useful! Am luat toate piesele din descriere de la un dealer Kia (toate sunt originale).
@@TheMissingBoltMersi, nici nu mi-a trecut prin cap :))... le comandasem de pe Megazip, s-au livrat in ~10 zile.
great tutorial, for measure the transmission must be on P ? because some ppl say must be in N greeting from chile.
Hi! You normally start in P. Only switch to N if you see no oil coming out while in P. But in the case of the Sportage's 6 speed, I left it in P and it worked fine.
Cant find sp iv in my country only dexron iii mv
Use Dexron III at your own risk. The SP-IV specification is not compatible with Dexron III, unfortunately. But I advise double-checking all oil available oil brands (Motul, Ravenol, Valvoline, Liqui Moly, Mobil1 etc.) to see if any of them sell an oil compatible with SP-IV before using anything else. Worst case, even if it is over-priced, a Hyundai / Kia dealer should be able to provide you with genuine oil.
2:44 how can i find this manual can you help me
It normally comes with the car. If you don't have it, any Kia dealer should be able to sell you one.
if you drained the box, then filled it normally and drove it and repeated you would get the same result..... much less work. flushing is actually done by letting the hose pump out as fluid is added under slight pressure into the line break......
You could, but to get the same percentage of old fluid out would cost you much more... see the explanation starting at 48:59. What you're referring to are the common flush machines, with their upsides and downsides (as I explained in the video), but as long as you don't drain too much through the hose in one go (so that the pump never runs dry), it's safe to also do it as described in the video.
Salut, dar filtrul nu il schimbi ?
Salut! Am explicat la 9:37 ce se intampla cu filtrul. La aceste cutii de Kia / Hyundai, filtrul nu este gandit sa fie schimbat in timpul schimburilor de ulei, fiind prin proiectare foarte dificil de accesat (aici, de exemplu, este explicat faptul ca practic trebuie sa demontezi complet cutia de pe masina ca sa poti schimba filtrul: czcams.com/video/bBeugPwICqQ/video.html). De aceea este cu atat mai important sa fie schimbat uleiul din cutie regulat... pentru ca daca ai infundat filtrul, inlocuirea lui va avea un cost semificativ.
Mi-am dat seama că ești român după modul în care vorbești, ai o engleză foarte curată și clară. Un nativ nu ar vorbi așa. În același timp nu e o engleză total pocită ca cea vorbită de indieni. Și nici cu accent așa cum vorbesc rușii sau alții.
Curată pentru români probabil, că alții poate consideră că și modul în care vorbesc românii engleza a nașpa.
@@iulian_98 Multumesc 😂 Da, din exterior mi s-a spus ca romanii ar avea un accent similar cu cel al rusilor sau al bulgarilor atunci cand vorbesc engleza.
Am facut schimbul de ulei la cutie la service cu robotul care face si flush … a scos tot uleiul vechi .
Am atins subiectul aparatelor de flush pe la 59:04. Cam toate, indiferent de marca / model, reusesc sa scoata cel mult 90 - 95 % din uleiul vechi, niciun aparat nu poate scoate 100 %. Si au avantajul ca simultan scot uleiul vechi in timp ce baga ulei nou, ceea ce un DIY nu poate face singur. Insa (1) nu ai garantia ca la service au spalat aparatul de vechiul ulei de la masina precedenta inainte sa-l puna la masina ta si (2) unele aparate iti baga la inceput si un ciclu de spalare cu diversi detergenti, pe care o data bagati in cutie nu-i mai poti scoate 100 % si nu stii ce efect au pe termen lung.
@@TheMissingBolt Garantia ca este curat o ai ca vezi uleiul care intra in cutie si cel care iese … la a mea s-a facut flush cu ulei nu cu detergenti … si sa scoata 95% din uleiul vechi este mult mai ok decat prin buson 40% … in cutie intra cam 7.6 L … parerea mea fara sa te deranjez . Felicitari ptr dedicatia aratata masinii
@@stoicadragos1 Nu e vorba de deranj, dar daca ai ridicat subiectul in discutie hai sa-l lamurim. Eu am explicat faptul ca la modul general, nu ai garantia ca (1) nu iti baga ciclu de curatare cu detergenti la inceput si (2) nu iti baga resturi de ulei de la revizia unei cutii de la masina precedenta. Faptul ca in aparat vezi cum iese uleiul vechi si intra uleiul nou nu exclude punctul (2) - de exemplu, daca aparatul a rulat pe o cutie de viteze ZF 8HP ca cele de pe BMW inainte sa fie conectata la Kia ta, atunci in aparat e posibil sa ramana o cantiate mica de ulei pentru 8HP, care sigur nu e compatibila cu SP-IV...iar daca tehnicianul nu curata aparatul, atunci acea cantitate va ajunge in cutia ta la inceputul ciclului de schimb, ceea ce nu e bine. Cat despre (1) poate ca unde ai fost tu pentru revizie nu au bagat, dar in alte locuri baga fara sa intrebe. Per total, varianta cu aparatul este buna, dar prezinta la modul general unele riscuri pe care un schimb DIY le poate evita - asta am vrut sa evidentiez in video.
Am facut si eu saptamana trecuta schimbul la reprezentanta dar de fapt au facut doar aceasta procedura. La umplere au folosit o “seringa” de mana. Costul cu tot cu ulei peste 2000 ron
120.000 thousand km is not 80 thousand miles,,,,,,,,,,,,90 thousand km is not 60 thousand miles...
True, it's 75K and 56.25K...but 80 and 60 are easier to remember, I think, and they're fairly close.
ATF filter ?
The ATF filter is not a serviceable part on these Kia boxes. It requires the complete removal of the box from the engine in order to access. That makes it even more important to change the transmission oil at regular intervals.
@@TheMissingBolt took the box down and changed the filter ! 👍
@@BMVaaay Did you take the box down just to replace the filter or did you have some other work that needed doing on it? Just curious 😇
@@TheMissingBolt yes just for the filter , and used atf clean up additif prior as well