All About Coleman Quicklite Lanterns (And How to Restore One)
Vložit
- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- In this video we begin with the history, design, and variations of the Coleman Quicklite family of lanterns, commonly referred to as models 327 and 427. After that we disassemble, restore, and reassemble a particularly abused 427 to get it operational again.
Video Content
00:00 History and Characteristics of the Quicklites
17:29 Looking Inside: Disassembling the Quicklite
28:40 Restoration: Stripping Paint
34:54 Restoration: Cleaning with Citric Acid
36:06 Restoration: Cleaning with Steel Wool
42:05 Restoration: Polishing
47:16 Reassembly
1:00:17 Light-up - Jak na to + styl
Thank you for this video. I picked up one of these lanterns earlier in the week and this video helped me disassemble it and clean it up.
I really enjoy your videos. You go into great detail and explain things slowly. I also like the history lessons you give. Keep up the good work
I can't tell you how much I've appreciated your videos. So well descriptive and has helped me tremendously. Thanks so much!!!
My quick lite is on it's way! 4-10 my mom's birthday. Next year will be 100 years young. I will be burning it no matter what condition. Tea candle will be worst case . I hope to have it operational of course... With a little help from my friends. Thank you.
Excellent video..thanks so much.. this gives me the inspiration to rebuild my two 1926 nickel plated models
Once again, nicely done. Turned out to be a beautiful lantern
Hey bill thanks for all the useful coleman information
I just stumbled across a couple of solid brass from 1920s. Pretty much the same ones from Joe Versus the Volcano. Best find ever
Beautiful specimens. Thank you for sharing.
I just bought a 327 from October 1926. She’s been dormant for as long as the originals owners grandson can remember and he’s 87 years old. Not sure to clean it or keep the original patina. I don’t know if it can be polished up or not. This video will decide.
I really enjoy your videos Bill, you have been a great help. I’ve recently acquired my first L427 Canada 10/26. After removing the pump and pump tube casing I cannot figure out how to get at the check valve in the bottom of the casing. I cannot find a video that addresses the problem. Do you have any experience with this issue? Any help will be greatly appreciated
@@davidlittlejohn2640 This might help. The external pump 427s are different from other check valves. czcams.com/video/d37VcIyMo6I/video.htmlsi=I6z61DIBaKC8PJ3Y
Bill - Thanks so much for taking the time to make this great video. Filming and editing can be time consuming. I will be using this as a reference when I do my next restoration which is a 1928 Canadian 327.
One question I had was about buffing the fount. The one in your video looked pretty yellow - like the brass was showing through. After the buffing I couldn’t really tell from the video whether the nickel was thin or if the yellow buffed off. Can you clarify for me? I have an old 220 fount that I stopped buffing for fear that I was stripping the nickel and wonder if maybe I should have been a little more aggressive.
Keep up the great work, you are my go-to be hen I need a visual reference for a rebuild.
No, although there were a couple of small spots where the brass was already exposed, the nickel is still fully in tact. All things considered, I'm happy with how it polished up for a free lantern covered in paint, but it's definitely not the shiniest end-product I've ever had. I wish I could tell you why some nickel polishes to a bright shine and other nickel remains dark and/or dull. I don't know why and it's hard to predict. I've had founts that I thought would be disasters that polished up and look virtually brand new and others that didn't look all that bad, but that are still dark/dull no matter how much polishing I do. The one thing I have noticed is that *sometimes* it seems due to surface contamination. I've polished a few founts that had runs from some kind of spilled liquid on them and while the rest of the fount polished up nicely, the nickel under that runs was dull and dark no matter what I did.
Bill.....Thanks for another great video.....I have recently assembled an 11/25 327 but cannot get the clocking right. My figure 8, when facing the valve wheel, was not very tight....To make it tight it is now facing 180 degrees from the valve wheel. I am afraid if I tighten another 180 to line it up with the valve wheel I will break something. In your experience, can these valves take a lot of torque?
Thanks for the video! Have you seen one where the collar is printed backwards? I recently purchased one and never noticed till I got it home that it was stamped out then rolled backwards.
Yes, I don't have on like that, but have seen then from time to time.
Nice informative video. Does anyone still do repro mica chimneys for these lanterns?
Yes. Old Coleman Parts often has them for sale and there are two or three guys in the collector community who make and sell them. Since I don't know how they'd feel with me posting their names and contact info here, I suggest asking in the Coleman-related groups on Facebook and other social media platforms.
OK thanks.@@king.coleman
Hi Bill, quick question. Trying to figure out what I have here . What I thought I had looks a little different than these. Very close, my pump is a huge pump compared to all coleman I've seen its supposed to be a 24 could be another brand not sure. Any way you have a site or somewhere I could send pictures to see if you can tell me what I have. It has the full mica globe with trap door to light is actually mica also , not metal. Thanks for your time and any help
I'd suggest posting photos at the colemancollectorsforum.com or in one of the Coleman collector groups on Facebook. There are a lot of guys those places who are very knowledgable. Akron's are the only ones I know of that had mica lighting doors. If there's a diamond pattern on the collar and/or vent riser, that would be an Akron. I'm not sure what you're describing with the pump. Is detached or built-in? Some models had built-in pumps that protrude from the fount.
I sure would like to add a Quicklite lantern to my collection. My oldest lantern is a 220BX dated 8/43. I do have lamps, a CQ, 139 and a 132a which needs a new pickup tube from the fount. Are the fuel and air tube replaceable on the 132a? Can they be unscrewed from out of the fount? Old Coleman Parts shows a fuel/air tube replacement, so I would imagine it would be able to be replaced. My 132ad has a split in the tube about an inch long just below the valve assembly. W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
I've never worked on a 132A, so I can't say for certain. I do see on the parts diagram that those are parts that can be replaced, which would likely indicate they should be removable.
What size pre-heat cup do you use for the R55? 237, 201 or 249? Thanks
For the most part they're all different. Different generators have different diameters and require different amounts of preheating. The R55 preaheat ups are fairly small, with a small diameter opening. The 237 ones are significantly larger. Different models also differ in what sort of clearances they've got. Preheat cups are fairly model-specific.
I have one that I am working on where can I pick up a mica chimney? Really enjoy your videos. I am in the US
Old Coleman Parts usually has reproduction mica chimneys and there are a couple of guys in the collector community who make them as well.
Hello Bill, i have a question will a regular heating cup fit the quick lite lanterns,or are they special diameter?
Do you mean a preheat cup? There's no "regular" preheat cup. There are several different styles and at least two different diameters for the through hole. The ones that fit an R-55 have a smaller diameter hole (and are smaller all around). The big kerosene preheat cups might fit too loosely, causing them to hang at an angle.
@@king.coleman ok thank you.
@king.coleman I am looking to restore my original mica shade but wondering if you knew where to purchase the Mica?
I've never bought any, but everyone I know who has, bought it on ebay. There always seem to be multiple sellers there.
@@king.coleman thank you? Could you possibly do a video on how to restore a Q99 generator?
@@AstroHunter5280 I already have. czcams.com/video/5XU9ETWLVok/video.html
How do you unseize an R55 like in your video?
I've got a video on R55s: czcams.com/video/Byvz9A-hEDM/video.html
Nice video I have a question my Valve wheel on my Coleman quicklite hard to turn how do I fix that thank you
Either the valve stem nut is too tight or the graphite packing inside it needs to be replaced. Loosen the nut until the stem is easier to turn, then tighten it back up as much as you can without the stem becoming too stiff again, then check for leaks around the stem while it's running. That may be all it needs. If that doesn't do it, you'll need to replaced the graphite packing.
@king.coleman thank you I will do that and thanks for all your expertise and knowledge! For sharing!
Does kerosene go bad , if it does at what age is it no good ? do a closed container make a difference in preserving the fuel ?
Yes, it does go stale. I haven't paid enough attention to the process to tell you how long it takes, but if it's gone from clear to yellow, it's definitely stale. It'll still burn just fine, but you may find it puts off more of an odour (I've noticed this particularly with wick lamps), and it may cause your generator to carbon up more quickly...but then kerosene generators carbon up more quickly anyway.
The citric acid doesn’t affect the graphite packing?
Not if the stem and nut are tight and you don't leave it in for long. I left the valve in the citric acid for about five minutes, just enough to loosen the crud. Leave it in too long and the graphite will still seal, but it will get "sticky" and the stem may become difficult to turn.
@@king.coleman Thanks!
do the 327 L hold pressure well? The one i have I need to pump up every hour not sure if i have a slow leak I can not find or a weak generator
If everything is working right they should hold pressure indefinitely. The best way to check for a leak is by dunking the fount in water and looking for bubbles. The usual culprits on these are a bad lead seal on the fuel cap or a leaking check valve.
@@king.coleman Are the check valves rebuildable? getting bubbles from the valve
@@nbensema No. You might try soaking it in carb cleaner to dissolve any gunk that might be in it. The bearing inside or the mating surface may be pitted. You can buy a new one from Old Coleman Parts.
I will try soaking next looks like they are sold out of check valves thanks for the help
What polishing wheel do you have? Did you purchase on Amazon?
It's a 6" cotton buffing wheel. I buy them at a local tool supply shop.
@@king.coleman do you know what ply? I see 50…80…
Sorry, no. This is what I use.
testing.roktools.ca/product/6-buffing-wheel-soft/
@@king.coleman thank you!
i have a early LQ2
Really enjoy your video’s. Do you sell any Coleman lanterns? Thanks
I have sold the occasional lantern, but I don't actively do any selling. I'm more inclined to trade with other collectors.