I love your series on percussion revolvers. You have helped me tremendously many times over. Hope your back pain eases up, I know the feeling. Stay safe. Brian
Great advice Blackie. I have been playing with an old Navy Arms Griswold I picked up cheap. It has a Brass frame and was in a little bit of tough shape when I got it. With your help I made her into a nice shooter.Thanks.
Hey Mr. Blackie, what an outstanding lesson on how a C&B works! It'll take a couple more "look sees" to fully digest what you're teaching. As a retired technical illustrator, wish I could have helped you with your illustrations. You did your best though! Back pain is "gehenna" (HELL!) as I know too well, especially at 81!! Too much wood cutting when i was younger!! I especially like what you said about not overtightening the trigger/cylinder locking bolt spring. If that breaks, you're up the ol' creek without not only a paddle, but without the canoe too! I've seen most S&W revolvers with unsightly cylinder bolt drag score marks. To me, S&W revolvers may be "timed" properly BUT not "tuned" properly! I see very few reproduction C&B revolvers with these score marks. Why? Thanks again for your very fine videos. Don't forget not to "squeeze da shaman" !! Mr. Whipple will come get you if you do! "Gesundheit"!
Just came across this while looking at BP videos. It's interesting in that I just got a new Pietta 1858 Stainless 5.5". I was working the hammer/trigger/cylinder and watching the bolt. The bolt drops out of the way quickly and stays down until it get's to the notch and pops up just as the hammer is fully cocked. Cylinder is locked tightly (no play) and the trigger pull is very crisp and light. I'd say this gun is the best timed one I have. It will never get a scratch ring around the cylinder if it stays like it is. It seems the idea would be to get any revolver to do this. I also have some DA revolvers that have no turn ring while others do. Great content and explanation of how these parts work with each other.
This video is exactly what I needed to answer my question on trigger spring bolt adjustment. I didn’t know how much to tighten it. I tightened all the way down when I did the initial de-burring and cleaning. Thanks!
Thanks again blackie for all that you do, I was shooting my Buffalo pistol yesterday and noticed the ring around the cylinder just like you are saying. I must have tightened up that spring a little too much! I will adjust as per your instructions you are awesome 👍
Thanks for another extremely well done and helpful tutorial. It led me to my timing problem - before spending big bux on parts I didn't need. For me, it was a combination of a bur on the side of the bolt cam as well as a slightly short hand.
Sir thanks for the showing excellent video really enjoyed it I must admit I have broke a couple springs so I understand hat your speaking about thanks hope you and you back get on the mend
Just got a brand new Pietta .36 Navy brasser today that does this. Thank You for the helpful tip , I will check out the stop and break the sharp edges, and polish it up with Mag Polish. I'm not as worried about the line on the cylinder, just that the gun functions smoothly
I know it's a older vid. But Thanks again Sir. That ring is a eye sore on any revolver. It hurts resale if ever needed too. Making a pistol that is in great shape in every other aspect look worn. When in fact it don't take but a few cylinder rotations to mar that surface by removing the blueing. Iv seen brand new pistols in the store with the light line of this bolt contact from Looky Lou's cocking the hammer already starting it's drag line
agreed..i traveled a lot in my youth and i went to dixie gun works many times,,they would not allow you to cock a gun untill after you bought it for that reason..if ya just could not stand it..they had a old ww2 flare gun on a bright cord hung on the gun rack saying ya could cock that one..lol
On colts the marks I've seen are from a lack of finishing at the factory as you stated. If you look at the bolt it shouldn't be cut square as it protrudes from the frame. It should be cut at a VERY gentle angle to match the cylinder slot. As you notice looking at the colt frame the bolt is not centered in the frame. Since it's not centered, the high side of the bolt will drag across the cylinder before it drops in place. You can loosen the bolt and trigger spring just remember a little goes a long way. Your action will feel noticeably smoother but f it's too loose the down side is if you run it fast you can over run the bolt. Do as Blackie says and take the leading edge off the bolt. I don't recommend angling the bolt unless you really know what you're doing or you'll be ordering another bolt. These methods are about the only way us backyard gunsmith can change the condition. Changing timing requires a geometry change on the spring side of the bolt. This can be done at home, but again, I don't recommend it unless you really know what you're doing. Hope your back heals soon, Blackie ! Keep the videos coming !
I am having this issue. I have tried adjusting the spring tension but the bolt will either drag and not spin freely at the half cocked position or spin freely regardless of the position. For me I dont think it is a problem with the spring tension. I think it has something to do with where the hammer and bolt interact.
I have an issue with a new 1851 Pietta build. The hammer will not full cock. It clicks back 2 times but not the 3rd. Cylinder turns but will not fully cock. Is that a bolt issues or the part that attaches to the hammer? Need all the help I can get.
QUESTION. I have a problem where the bolt comes up a little early and hits hard right at the very beginning of the lead-in, then it drags into the bolt hole after continuing the cocking procedure. Any ideas on how I might be able to adjust that out? Thanks.
My colt walker is marring up the cylinder-side edge of the notch---I'll try taking the edge off of that side of the bolt. I also definitely should weaken the bolt spring a tad. Also, the bolt locks into position almost immediately after the hammer reaches full cock. The extra half an inch of hammer travel pushes the cylinder into battery. Is this a problem? Lastly, if I half cock the hammer very fast and stop, momentum can carry the cylinder too far, causing it to over rotate and miss the bolt rising.
XLNT Video! I have 2 Questions 1. Is there any way to alter the cam to make the bolt drop later? or just buy a new hammer. 2. If the timing seems perfect except the sear drops into full cock just before the bolt locks does it mean I need a new trigger(longer)? Thank You
I’m new to the world of black powder shooting. I just got a Pietta 1851 Colt Navy. I noticed that the cone (where the barrel meets the cylinder) has a knick on the top/outside that appears to have been machined down. It’s brand new hasn’t been fired. Is that Knick going to br an issue?
I'm having an issue on a High Standard Schneider and Glassick .36 cal. The bolt seems to be causing unnecessary friction inside the action and sometimes the cylinder over rotates. Also CCI no.10 caps wont detonate on the first strike (guessing theyre slightly undersized) I handfitted a trigger and bolt spring. Where do I start?
ok first be sure the bolt is fitting the opening in the frame and is not binding..next the trigger spring may not be giving it enough pressure to pop up and catch the cyl ..so see if you cock very slow does it catch then..if so now try cock fast..if slow is good fast not spring too weak..as to caps see if the nipples are flaired out from hammer impacts if so remove nipples cover threads with tape chuck threads up in drill turning drill slow use a file to taper the nipples a tiny bit..this should remove the spreading from hammer impact try that
@@blackoracle69 welp. I went off half cocked before you answered and tried to bend the plowshare inwards. Bent her too much so I tried to pry it apart a little and broke it. Lessons learned. I'll be learning how to fit a new stop.
I love your series on percussion revolvers. You have helped me tremendously many times over. Hope your back pain eases up, I know the feeling. Stay safe. Brian
Great advice Blackie. I have been playing with an old Navy Arms Griswold I picked up cheap. It has a Brass frame and was in a little bit of tough shape when I got it. With your help I made her into a nice shooter.Thanks.
"Blackie's the place with the helpful percussion revolver man"
63 years old, around guns all my life, and learned something new. Thanks.
glad you found it of use..safe journeys
Hey Mr. Blackie, what an outstanding lesson on how a C&B works! It'll take a couple more "look sees" to fully digest what you're teaching. As a retired technical illustrator, wish I could have helped you with your illustrations. You did your best though! Back pain is "gehenna" (HELL!) as I know too well, especially at 81!! Too much wood cutting when i was younger!! I especially like what you said about not overtightening the trigger/cylinder locking bolt spring. If that breaks, you're up the ol' creek without not only a paddle, but without the canoe too! I've seen most S&W revolvers with unsightly cylinder bolt drag score marks. To me, S&W revolvers may be "timed" properly BUT not "tuned" properly! I see very few reproduction C&B revolvers with these score marks. Why? Thanks again for your very fine videos. Don't forget not to "squeeze da shaman" !! Mr. Whipple will come get you if you do! "Gesundheit"!
Just came across this while looking at BP videos. It's interesting in that I just got a new Pietta 1858 Stainless 5.5". I was working the hammer/trigger/cylinder and watching the bolt. The bolt drops out of the way quickly and stays down until it get's to the notch and pops up just as the hammer is fully cocked. Cylinder is locked tightly (no play) and the trigger pull is very crisp and light. I'd say this gun is the best timed one I have. It will never get a scratch ring around the cylinder if it stays like it is. It seems the idea would be to get any revolver to do this. I also have some DA revolvers that have no turn ring while others do. Great content and explanation of how these parts work with each other.
This video is exactly what I needed to answer my question on trigger spring bolt adjustment. I didn’t know how much to tighten it. I tightened all the way down when I did the initial de-burring and cleaning. Thanks!
Glad it helped
Stiffneck
Kudos! Concise, precise and illustrated class about my concern - thank you Professor Thomas!
Thank you, being new at this the explanation you gave is both clear and easy to visualize.
Hope your back is feeling better.
Thanks! Explains a LOT, I have that issue on a new Uberti 1858
Thanks for the dynamite information. I've had these troubles. You know more about these old colts than anyone I've ever come across.
Thanks again blackie for all that you do, I was shooting my Buffalo pistol yesterday and noticed the ring around the cylinder just like you are saying. I must have tightened up that spring a little too much! I will adjust as per your instructions you are awesome 👍
it will help may not totally stop it..but in my exp it helps a lot
Thanks for another extremely well done and helpful tutorial. It led me to my timing problem - before spending big bux on parts I didn't need. For me, it was a combination of a bur on the side of the bolt cam as well as a slightly short hand.
Thanks Blackie. I am going to take apart my '51 & '58 to check them and do any necessary adjustments.
Sir thanks for the showing excellent video really enjoyed it I must admit I have broke a couple springs so I understand hat your speaking about thanks hope you and you back get on the mend
Just got a brand new Pietta .36 Navy brasser today that does this. Thank You for the helpful tip , I will check out the stop and break the sharp edges, and polish it up with Mag Polish.
I'm not as worried about the line on the cylinder, just that the gun functions smoothly
Great info
Thank you. Bout a uberti saa in 45colt with this issue. Got a starting point.
Hi, Thanks for the lesson! Sorry to hear about your back. Stay safe.
Thanks 👍
Good video. Thanks!
I’m going to loosen my spring later and polish my bolt edge on my strop, I’ve had this issue on my 1858 from factory.
I know it's a older vid. But Thanks again Sir. That ring is a eye sore on any revolver. It hurts resale if ever needed too. Making a pistol that is in great shape in every other aspect look worn. When in fact it don't take but a few cylinder rotations to mar that surface by removing the blueing. Iv seen brand new pistols in the store with the light line of this bolt contact from Looky Lou's cocking the hammer already starting it's drag line
agreed..i traveled a lot in my youth and i went to dixie gun works many times,,they would not allow you to cock a gun untill after you bought it for that reason..if ya just could not stand it..they had a old ww2 flare gun on a bright cord hung on the gun rack saying ya could cock that one..lol
On colts the marks I've seen are from a lack of finishing at the factory as you stated. If you look at the bolt it shouldn't be cut square as it protrudes from the frame. It should be cut at a VERY gentle angle to match the cylinder slot. As you notice looking at the colt frame the bolt is not centered in the frame. Since it's not centered, the high side of the bolt will drag across the cylinder before it drops in place. You can loosen the bolt and trigger spring just remember a little goes a long way. Your action will feel noticeably smoother but f it's too loose the down side is if you run it fast you can over run the bolt. Do as Blackie says and take the leading edge off the bolt. I don't recommend angling the bolt unless you really know what you're doing or you'll be ordering another bolt. These methods are about the only way us backyard gunsmith can change the condition. Changing timing requires a geometry change on the spring side of the bolt. This can be done at home, but again, I don't recommend it unless you really know what you're doing. Hope your back heals soon, Blackie ! Keep the videos coming !
thanks i will follow orders and rest my back..but sitting still is a hard job for me..lol...thanks for the comment safe journeys
I am having this issue. I have tried adjusting the spring tension but the bolt will either drag and not spin freely at the half cocked position or spin freely regardless of the position. For me I dont think it is a problem with the spring tension. I think it has something to do with where the hammer and bolt interact.
👍👍
I have an issue with a new 1851 Pietta build. The hammer will not full cock. It clicks back 2 times but not the 3rd. Cylinder turns but will not fully cock. Is that a bolt issues or the part that attaches to the hammer? Need all the help I can get.
QUESTION. I have a problem where the bolt comes up a little early and hits hard right at the very beginning of the lead-in, then it drags into the bolt hole after continuing the cocking procedure. Any ideas on how I might be able to adjust that out? Thanks.
ima see if this fixes what im going thru if not, ill be back . assuming this also applies to a NMA
My colt walker is marring up the cylinder-side edge of the notch---I'll try taking the edge off of that side of the bolt. I also definitely should weaken the bolt spring a tad.
Also, the bolt locks into position almost immediately after the hammer reaches full cock. The extra half an inch of hammer travel pushes the cylinder into battery. Is this a problem?
Lastly, if I half cock the hammer very fast and stop, momentum can carry the cylinder too far, causing it to over rotate and miss the bolt rising.
XLNT Video! I have 2 Questions
1. Is there any way to alter the cam to make the bolt drop later? or just buy a new hammer.
2. If the timing seems perfect except the sear drops into full cock just before the bolt locks does it mean I need a new trigger(longer)?
Thank You
I wish I woulda knew that before I went ahead and loaded up and started shooting my gun because it already put them notches scratches on my notches
I’m new to the world of black powder shooting. I just got a Pietta 1851 Colt Navy. I noticed that the cone (where the barrel meets the cylinder) has a knick on the top/outside that appears to have been machined down. It’s brand new hasn’t been fired. Is that Knick going to br an issue?
as long as its not dragging the cyl..as it rotates it should be ok
OK can this happen with the New Army 1858 Remington? I haven't noticed a problem, I don't want a problem! Thanks again Blackie!
i have seen it on colts and remingtons usually the sharp edge of the bold and a bit too much spring tension is whats causing the marks on the cyl
I'm having an issue on a High Standard Schneider and Glassick .36 cal. The bolt seems to be causing unnecessary friction inside the action and sometimes the cylinder over rotates. Also CCI no.10 caps wont detonate on the first strike (guessing theyre slightly undersized) I handfitted a trigger and bolt spring. Where do I start?
ok first be sure the bolt is fitting the opening in the frame and is not binding..next the trigger spring may not be giving it enough pressure to pop up and catch the cyl ..so see if you cock very slow does it catch then..if so now try cock fast..if slow is good fast not spring too weak..as to caps see if the nipples are flaired out from hammer impacts if so remove nipples cover threads with tape chuck threads up in drill turning drill slow use a file to taper the nipples a tiny bit..this should remove the spreading from hammer impact try that
@@blackoracle69 welp. I went off half cocked before you answered and tried to bend the plowshare inwards. Bent her too much so I tried to pry it apart a little and broke it. Lessons learned. I'll be learning how to fit a new stop.
Where do you get parts?
Or simply get a wire spring :)
A chiropractor keeps me walking.
Hey, so it is normal, that it is riding on the cylinder into the notch for a little bit??
Ideally it shouldnt touch the cylinder at all until it sets perfectly in the bolt notch on the cylinder.