Blackie, I'm just getting started with cap and ball revolvers. I've got a Ruger Old Army and a 3rd model Signature Dragoon. Your càp and ball series has been priceless. Thank you for keeping this alive for the new guys. I want to shake your hand.
Watched this plus his tips and tricks. Used some of his advise on my uberti 1851 navy and got my groups significantly smaller. This man knows his percussion revolvers and I recommend anyone to watch all his vids and take heed of his experience. You can get a percussion revolver to shoot as well as a modern cartridge revolver cause I've seen the proof with my navy now. Thanks Blackie.
I just bought an 1860 .44 Army today. I found this very informative, I was going to go out and shoot it tomorrow but I will wait until I have everything I need to make it safe. I figured I have waited this long, another day won't hurt ! I like to be safe, and after spending that much money, I want to keep my gun safe as well. Thank You so much !
Thats good advice just baught a 62 sheriff and 60 army. Already have 51 navy, and cause of blackie it shoots so smooth and never jams. Cant wait to go to range but the sheriff has issues
Man, thanks for such informative videos! Your details are so excellent, I can actually visualize them as they are explained. You have definitely clarified much regarding cap and ball pistols. Your knowledge regarding this matter clearly shows.Thanks again!
In the Remington, you may want to try going up to 40 grains. I have a .44 Uberti with a 5.5-inch barrel and have found that the extra powder helps make the gun perform more like the 8-inch model. I have used 40 grains with and without a wad with good luck. My gun also grouped better at 40 grains then 25, 30, or 35.
I did a lot of 303 British hand loading as well as 7.62X54R. Damn good explanation! I found this as informative as all get out! I always thought of cap and ball as load the powder charge that's recommended. Nothing else to be done. What you just laid out makes so much sense! I just got my 1858 Remington, haven't gone to the range yet but will be ready with less guessing thanks to you!
Blackie, you ol' "decarbonated bushwacker" you! As shooting the C&B revolvers is what got me into shooting back about 1968, this video was a great great joy to watch, especially for the wonderful technical information. You & Dualist 1954 are my most enjoyed gun guys, most especially for blackpowder. From a "northener", take that as a great big compliment!!! But always always remember, "please don't squeeze da shaman"! Or Mr. Whipple will get ya! "Gesuntheit"!!!!!
Thank you very much for putting these videos out these videos. I'm buying a 1858 new army next week I dont know anyone who knows much about cap and ball so in going to be figuring it out as I go so I appreciate your videos because that's how I'm going to learn watching your videos and other videos. Thankyou
Out of all these black powder instructors.! I got amid " t you are the best one I like the Mike bell" the dueling guy, but your showed to me a lot of things I never knew before,? and I've been shooting these things for over 50 years . Off and on love them myself. I've been working on my old Remington what you were teaching improvements,!TK
Thanks for an interesting and I formative video. I think now I have some work to do with my new 1860 Army Pietta. When you were explaining about powder compression it reminded me of when I smoked a pipe. If the tobacco was too loose the it would burn too fast. if too compressed the pipe would be hard to smoke and go out and there was also when the tobacco was too compressed at the top and loose at the bottom and it would cause draw and burning problems. I was thinking that with the unique rammer system of these firearms that the powder would tend to be compressed more towards the bullet end of the chamber and looser towards the nipple end. Maybe for target shooting tamping at various intervals would produce a more even ignition realizing this may be impractical in most other shooting situations. Thanks again.
That s great. I do mine with 5 phases. Each phase with three parts (Initial, consistency final). 1- Function. 2- Charging. 3 Aim point 4- Penetration/mass effect. 5- Grouping. I charge the various elongateds with o n l y powder and ball. Where the powder compression stops before the rammer reaches its stop, and the tip of the ball is just below the surface of the chamber. 2 drops of lubricant over the loaded ball. , and a p r o p e r fitting cap.
This is a great video. I can’t wait to get home and fire my steel frame, 12” barreled 1858 from Dixie GW. I have some of Kaido’s .44 bullets and am curious how they will group. Also, I travel over half of each month. Therefore, not only do I enjoy you’re informative video, I enjoy hearing the background noise. It reminds me of being at home in my beloved South.
The guy that runs the shooting range said i could use ffg in my 1869 army being they were out of ffg at the time . I wasn't sure at the time as i was new to shooting black powder hand guns ? thanks for confirming that for me !!! found your channel and just subscribed !!!
Not really into cap and ball, black powder ect, but I gotta say you have made the subject here interesting. and easy to understand I'm not likely to rush right out and buy one but its still easy to understand
glad you enjoy it i try to bounce around and lots of my followers like my percussion revolver series..dont worry i got plenty of woodscraft planned as well..safe journeys
Bad hat if you ever do decide you would like to try getting into Black Powder revolver shooting the time will be before Cgristmas and before father's day. On those two times Cabela's generally reduces the price on their " Pieta Model 1851 Navy .44 Cap and Ball Revolver " from $199.990 to $149.99 with free shipping to your door I believe. No FFL transfer fee required. That is my plan this year.
Good information Blackie, but I have my guns set up so with the arbor length adjusted to the spot when it bottoms out the barrel it just touching the frame. The wedge goes in thumb and a tap tight. Now the barrel and frame are a solid piece. My cylinder/barrel clearance is very small (I don't have a gun at hand to measure) but it is just a couple of thousands. With the inside parts smoothed out and a cap rake installed like my my 1860 Army's are set up they have has hundreds of rounds and no cap jams and no wandering zeros. Thanks for the hard work and information.. Keep up the good work.
You should consider using the Kaido Ojamaa Universal bullets. They are a Keith type flat nose rebated base bullet series that have proven themselves in various field tests effectively dropping wild hogs in the 200lb class easily out of 1860 and 1858 revolvers with a single shot and a 25gr Triple 7 3fg charge. penetration rivaled our 45 Colt and 10mm pistols that were used for comparison on the original field test against wild boars in Florida.
Hey Blackie, thanks for the great video. Well I have just about all I need to get started with my foray into the world of Black Powder shooting. I have my..... Brass powder flask Brass powder measure Brass percussion cap loader Nipple wrench Remington #10 percussion caps. Cleaning rod with bore brush and patch holder 16 oz container of American Pioneer Powder ( FFFG ) All I need now are .454 round lead balls .44 cal pre lubed Wonder Wads Hmmmmmm there is one more thing I need. Oh yeah, I need my Pieta 1851 Confederate Navy Black Powder Revolver. I am waiting for the Christmas Sale at Cabela's for it to drop from $199.99 to $149.99. I have seen many different recommendations for loads for the Pieta 1851 Blackie. Some say they have seen online from Pieta a chart that says 17 grains. That seems a bit light to me. Others say 20 grains and others say 25 grains. What is your opinion on this? Do you think I should just go through the measuring and testing procedures you outline when i get my revolver? I plan eventually to go to premaking paper cartridges for it. Do you have a video on making those? Thanks Bill
the load procedure i show will show the most accurate load for the revolver..as to them shooting loose..with the metal..they use today i say shoot it..yes it will""eventually"" wear faster..but based on how many round over how many yrs..it took me nearly well over 10yrs of shooting..and shooting very often with full loads i might add..for mine to finally shoot loose and be unuseable
I can keep about a 4 to 5 inch group at around 20 yards. I have trouble seeing the sites on my '51 navy because I don't wear reading glasses though I should.
By the way, What you’re describing is the Stoichiometric Ratio. Here is a quote from Wikipedia, “Stoichiometry is also used to find the right amount of one reactant to "completely" react with the other reactant in a chemical reaction - that is, the stoichiometric amounts that would result in no leftover reactants when the reaction takes place”.
I've found my pietta 58 new army like 30-35 gr alliant black mz and my uberti walker likes 45 both with a hornady 454 round ball wonder wad and bore butter those have the best accuracy and are plenty powerful and alliant mz is in between ffg and fffg
When I first test fire a cap and ball I proof it by filling the cylinder about 1/2 way with 4f and cram 2 balls on it, or I'll fill he cylinder with 4f and a ball and start prayin
Recently I was reading my copy of Dixie Gun Works catalog and in scrutinizing the bore diameter details in the various pistol descriptions(the DGW catalog gives a wonderfully exhaustive run down of the manifold features of all the firearms as you may well know),I realized that nearly all the revolvers had a rather substantial difference between the chamber diameters and the barrel-bore diameters(groove-to-groove, specifically speaking). The projectiles were larger than cylinder chambers but smaller( I think) than barrel bore,groove-to-groove of course. I've viewed several of your videos but I can't remember if you treated this subject or no. Obviously when we ram down a .454 ball into a .446 chamber throat we no longer have a .454 ball hitting a .450(?) bore. It may not even be a concern? But can this condition affect accuracy? Has it been a problem for you? I know you have considered at length some where the need to check chamber's consistancy. Thanks again for your detailed information on the old guns too,Blackie.
when using pure led balls or bullets..the pressure of the power charge firing will cause the lead to bump up or flatten..and thus fill the bore to proper fit..the only trouble i have had was when i created hard lead bullets..these would not bump up and accuracy usually suffered
The only problem I can see with everything you explained about "Load Development" is that you are starting with a large load and then adjusting. The reason I see this as a potential problem is that many of these reproductions have a brass frame... Frame stretch may become an issue if you determine that the sweet spot in load size is quite large. Now, if you have a steel frame, etc., it's not an issue but if you have a brass frame, maybe the consideration of stretching might be a factor to take into play and you may want to start with a much lighter load (without leaving air space) and then adjust up from there. What do you think?
i have been wondering...the frames are not brass..they are in fact a metal called gun metal #6 a alloy of bronze and others..the henry rifles today modern made in .357 .44 mad 30-30 45-70 are all made from what seems to be the same gunmetal # 6..i wonder if those rifles are going to shoot loose as well....i guess time will tell
@@blackoracle69 thanks for the answer. That's interesting to know. I guess it would be interesting to see what happens I didn't know that about them metal. Either way I think that you're explanation and fix is a good one.
This is a little off subject. I have a question about casting round balls. I have an 1851 Conf. Navy and an 1858 Rem. New Army both in 44 cal. I have a LEE 2 cavity .454 mold. I also have about 5 pounds of Lyman #2 lead. Is it safe to use the Lyman #2 in my cap & ball pistols, or should I get some pure (99.9%) lead and use it for casting my round balls ? Thanks for all your hard work on these great videos. One more thing. I did not find a video in your library on casting round balls. Maybe consider doing one some time.
the #2 will work fine..in the long past the rifling of repo's was too shallow and the #2 lead would not grip well modern guns have better rifling and should shoot fine..i plan on doing a casting video in the future stay tuned..safe journeys
sure i used corn meal it is cheap and easy to get..plus it compresses well..usually drop in the charge you want to use fill chamber to top with corn meal..then compress a little with rammer to make a place for the ball to sit in loading..then seat ball..and shoot..the only thing ya need to look closely at is if you life in a place with..high humidity the corn meal can wick water from the air..if left open..( like here in my south when its 90% humidity some times)..in those times the extra water will dampen down you powder charge ..and you may get a squib if left loaded too long..be very aware of how the gun is shooting..if for any reason a shot felt soft or odd..stop pull caps and remove cyl and check bore to be sure a ball is not left there..hope this helps
Thanks for the reply and it does help I live in SC Myrtle Beach it's pretty humide you have any other ideas for humide areas just wanted to thank you again for the information and the reply
You cannot make a comparison to gasoline burning in a cylinder to Black powder if you understand the chemistry of black powder you would know it has its own oxygen source and unlike gasoline it requires no air so air space doesn't effect how clean it burns or how fast. The speed at which black powder burns is determined by the grain size FFFFg burns faster than FFFg and FFg is slower than the other two and the speed of its burning has some control over velocity. Black powder is going to be dirty no mater what and it will fowl the barrel but it's residues are water soluble.
Correct... His understanding of the burning of the powder is incorrect. The potassium nitrate is the source for the oxygen in the chemical reaction, not the air. By compressing the powder, you are affecting the speed that the burn progresses through the rest of the powder. That would also explain why having an air gap between the powder and the bullet would cause an explosion -- more of the powder is exposed to the initial spark from the primer / percussion cap / ignition source and it all starts burning at the same time, thus exceeding pressure of the chamber. By compressing the powder, you are getting a more controlled burn from one end to the other.
Blackie, if I might ask, Is there an Harbor Freight punch for an .50 cal Hawken rifle? I fire R.E.A.L.s and I back them with a cleaning patch. I get better accuracy with a patch behind the casting. Oh yeah. I love your videos.
@@blackoracle69 I did think of that, and wrapping them and forcing them backwards in the barrel, muzzle first, the patch tears and is left at the muzzle. I was wondering on using corrugated box stock, or card stock. Or something like that.
sure..BUT.pour into chamber small dose of blackpowder..then FILL the rest of the chamber with corn meal ..that way there is no chance of air space which is a big no no....ALSO be sure each and every ball impacts the target..if in doubt check..do not let a ball stick in barrel then fire a second round..VERY BIG NO NO... be safe
I have a '51 & '58 in .44 cal. Should you measure your powder charges by weight or by volume? I have (for example) a 30gr. spout on my flask. I fill the spout with Pyrodex 'P' powder and then weigh it on my digital scale and I get about 18gr. Big safety issue here.
Thanks for the reply. I thought I should mention this because of any rookies out there that may be confused on whether to weigh or volume their charge. Merry Christmas.
a simple method would be to first make a good mark on the basepin and one on the recoil shield..now unscrew the base pin..add green locktight..( get on line or from brownells) add a few drops and screw back in being sure to make the marks you made line up now quick put gun back together and be sure everything is in proper place ...ya got a min or so tops before the green locktight sets up..thats should fix it
That s helpful!!! Should I put a shim or something on the lower frame to keep the clearence so that the cylinder won t rub/bind? Because that is what it is currently doing.
it can be shot in rifles but it is very large grain powder..so its ment for large bore shotguns and rifles..i shot my .50 cal flint with it and it turned in great accuracy..so i was shooting it in rifle matches..it will produce lower velocity than say 3F.. but it is safe to use
blackoracle69 cool thank you you should make a video on casting your bullets really enjoy these videos they are helpful and really like the kukri videos
in my earlier video i debur a 1861 navy and i also did on ( warning very long video!) on the 1858 remington..in short i check all parts for burrs or casting flaws that might hamper function..and take you step by step thru the process
Very informative video. But, I would rather see what you are doing rather than your face and it would help if main picture was in the center of the video. My opinion.
You should consider using the Kaido Ojamaa Universal bullets. They are a Keith type flat nose rebated base bullet series that have proven themselves in various field tests effectively dropping wild hogs in the 200lb class easily out of 1860 and 1858 revolvers with a single shot and a 25gr Triple 7 3fg charge. penetration rivaled our 45 Colt and 10mm pistols that were used for comparison on the original field test against wild boars in Florida.
You should consider using the Kaido Ojamaa Universal bullets. They are a Keith type flat nose rebated base bullet series that have proven themselves in various field tests effectively dropping wild hogs in the 200lb class easily out of 1860 and 1858 revolvers with a single shot and a 25gr Triple 7 3fg charge. penetration rivaled our 45 Colt and 10mm pistols that were used for comparison on the original field test against wild boars in Florida.
Blackie, I'm just getting started with cap and ball revolvers. I've got a Ruger Old Army and a 3rd model Signature Dragoon. Your càp and ball series has been priceless. Thank you for keeping this alive for the new guys. I want to shake your hand.
glad you enjoy the channel..got lots more stuff on the way
safe journeys
Your comment about cap and ball is two years old now. How many you have now? Lol
@@jamesvicker65 6 revolvers and I hope I'm done. Had to start bullet casting of course😂🤣
@@patmurphy3410 hey thats really awesome of you to answer. I am new to cap and ball and already own 3 revolvers and a rifle. Shoot more then i fish.
Watched this plus his tips and tricks. Used some of his advise on my uberti 1851 navy and got my groups significantly smaller. This man knows his percussion revolvers and I recommend anyone to watch all his vids and take heed of his experience. You can get a percussion revolver to shoot as well as a modern cartridge revolver cause I've seen the proof with my navy now. Thanks Blackie.
Thank you! Thank you again. The most informative black powder pistol i have ever seen. You are the man.
Always great listening and learning from you knowledgeable concepts
Priceless/ years of experience shared with us...Thank you very much
I just bought an 1860 .44 Army today. I found this very informative, I was going to go out and shoot it tomorrow but I will wait until I have everything I need to make it safe. I figured I have waited this long, another day won't hurt ! I like to be safe, and after spending that much money, I want to keep my gun safe as well. Thank You so much !
glad you found it to be of use..safe journeys
Thats good advice just baught a 62 sheriff and 60 army. Already have 51 navy, and cause of blackie it shoots so smooth and never jams. Cant wait to go to range but the sheriff has issues
Very informative, thank you sir
Man, thanks for such informative videos! Your details are so excellent, I can actually visualize them as they are explained. You have definitely clarified much regarding cap and ball pistols. Your knowledge regarding this matter clearly shows.Thanks again!
In the Remington, you may want to try going up to 40 grains. I have a .44 Uberti with a 5.5-inch barrel and have found that the extra powder helps make the gun perform more like the 8-inch model. I have used 40 grains with and without a wad with good luck. My gun also grouped better at 40 grains then 25, 30, or 35.
Wayne Heath great comment. I was wondering about this exact gun. Is it decently accurate? Have you seen a difference with conicals?
Great series Blackie.
Great information and tips. Thanks' Blackie keep up the good work.
Nice video, explained very well.
man that was concise this is a great series my friend always wondered why the zero wandered wonder it it works with reg. loads atb tom
Great video! Very informative and helpful. Thanks very much Blacky.
I did a lot of 303 British hand loading as well as 7.62X54R. Damn good explanation! I found this as informative as all get out! I always thought of cap and ball as load the powder charge that's recommended. Nothing else to be done. What you just laid out makes so much sense! I just got my 1858 Remington, haven't gone to the range yet but will be ready with less guessing thanks to you!
Blackie this was very imformative I am new and you just answered about 99% of my questiongs thank you.
thanks and welcome to the channel..safe journeys
Blackie, you ol' "decarbonated bushwacker" you! As shooting the C&B revolvers is what got me into shooting back about 1968, this video was a great great joy to watch, especially for the wonderful technical information. You & Dualist 1954 are my most enjoyed gun guys, most especially for blackpowder. From a "northener", take that as a great big compliment!!! But always always remember, "please don't squeeze da shaman"! Or Mr. Whipple will get ya! "Gesuntheit"!!!!!
thank you sir..safe journeys
Thank you very much for putting these videos out these videos. I'm buying a 1858 new army next week I dont know anyone who knows much about cap and ball so in going to be figuring it out as I go so I appreciate your videos because that's how I'm going to learn watching your videos and other videos. Thankyou
your welcome and i hope you enjoy your new revolver
Great stuff, thanks !
Out of all these black powder instructors.! I got amid " t you are the best one I like the Mike bell" the dueling guy, but your showed to me a lot of things I never knew before,? and I've been shooting these things for over 50 years . Off and on love them myself. I've been working on my old Remington what you were teaching improvements,!TK
very informative video thank you.
Thanks for an interesting and I formative video. I think now I have some work to do with my new 1860 Army Pietta. When you were explaining about powder compression it reminded me of when I smoked a pipe. If the tobacco was too loose the it would burn too fast. if too compressed the pipe would be hard to smoke and go out and there was also when the tobacco was too compressed at the top and loose at the bottom and it would cause draw and burning problems. I was thinking that with the unique rammer system of these firearms that the powder would tend to be compressed more towards the bullet end of the chamber and looser towards the nipple end. Maybe for target shooting tamping at various intervals would produce a more even ignition realizing this may be impractical in most other shooting situations. Thanks again.
That s great. I do mine with 5 phases. Each phase with three parts (Initial, consistency final). 1- Function. 2- Charging. 3 Aim point 4- Penetration/mass effect. 5- Grouping.
I charge the various elongateds with o n l y powder and ball. Where the powder compression stops before the rammer reaches its stop, and the tip of the ball is just below the surface of the chamber. 2 drops of lubricant over the loaded ball. , and a p r o p e r fitting cap.
I do the same thing with all my pistols! Load the chambers full to get a 'Full chamber' measure reference.
Nice work!
This is a great video. I can’t wait to get home and fire my steel frame, 12” barreled 1858 from Dixie GW. I have some of Kaido’s .44 bullets and am curious how they will group. Also, I travel over half of each month. Therefore, not only do I enjoy you’re informative video, I enjoy hearing the background noise. It reminds me of being at home in my beloved South.
glad you like it safe journeys to you
That look you gave the person turning round in your driveway was heavier than lead
lol i dont like bill collectors bothering me when i am doing a video..lol
The guy that runs the shooting range said i could use ffg in my 1869 army being they were out of ffg at the time . I wasn't sure at the time as i was new to shooting black powder hand guns ? thanks for confirming that for me !!! found your channel and just subscribed !!!
Not really into cap and ball, black powder ect, but I gotta say you have made the subject here interesting. and easy to understand I'm not likely to rush right out and buy one but its still easy to understand
glad you enjoy it i try to bounce around and lots of my followers like my percussion revolver series..dont worry i got plenty of woodscraft planned as well..safe journeys
Bad hat if you ever do decide you would like to try getting into Black Powder revolver shooting the time will be before Cgristmas and before father's day. On those two times Cabela's generally reduces the price on their
" Pieta Model 1851 Navy .44 Cap and Ball Revolver " from $199.990 to $149.99 with free shipping to your door I believe. No FFL transfer fee required.
That is my plan this year.
Ive been doing load development. Its been taking awhile since I have two types of ammo. I load for accuracy first and foremost.
thats the way to go
Good information Blackie, but I have my guns set up so with the arbor length adjusted to the spot when it bottoms out the barrel it just touching the frame. The wedge goes in thumb and a tap tight. Now the barrel and frame are a solid piece. My cylinder/barrel clearance is very small (I don't have a gun at hand to measure) but it is just a couple of thousands. With the inside parts smoothed out and a cap rake installed like my my 1860 Army's are set up they have has hundreds of rounds and no cap jams and no wandering zeros. Thanks for the hard work and information.. Keep up the good work.
glad you found it helpful..safe journeys
I was just using a 30gr triple 7 pellet. Worked pretty well and not to dirty.
they have made big improvemnts with those pellets
You should consider using the Kaido Ojamaa Universal bullets. They are a
Keith type flat nose rebated base bullet series that have proven
themselves in various field tests effectively dropping wild hogs in the
200lb class easily out of 1860 and 1858 revolvers with a single shot and
a 25gr Triple 7 3fg charge. penetration rivaled our 45 Colt and 10mm
pistols that were used for comparison on the original field test against
wild boars in Florida.
👍
Hey Blackie, thanks for the great video. Well I have just about all I need to get started with
my foray into the world of Black Powder shooting. I have my.....
Brass powder flask
Brass powder measure
Brass percussion cap loader
Nipple wrench
Remington #10 percussion caps.
Cleaning rod with bore brush and patch holder
16 oz container of American Pioneer Powder ( FFFG )
All I need now are
.454 round lead balls
.44 cal pre lubed Wonder Wads
Hmmmmmm there is one more thing I need.
Oh yeah, I need my Pieta 1851 Confederate Navy Black Powder Revolver.
I am waiting for the Christmas Sale at Cabela's for it to drop
from $199.99 to $149.99.
I have seen many different recommendations for loads for the Pieta 1851 Blackie.
Some say they have seen online from Pieta a chart that says 17 grains. That seems
a bit light to me. Others say 20 grains and others say 25 grains.
What is your opinion on this? Do you think I should just go through the measuring and testing
procedures you outline when i get my revolver? I plan eventually to go to premaking paper cartridges
for it. Do you have a video on making those?
Thanks
Bill
the load procedure i show will show the most accurate load for the revolver..as to them shooting loose..with the metal..they use today i say shoot it..yes it will""eventually"" wear faster..but based on how many round over how many yrs..it took me nearly well over 10yrs of shooting..and shooting very often with full loads i might add..for mine to finally shoot loose and be unuseable
I can keep about a 4 to 5 inch group at around 20 yards. I have trouble seeing the sites on my '51 navy because I don't wear reading glasses though I should.
By the way, What you’re describing is the Stoichiometric Ratio. Here is a quote from Wikipedia, “Stoichiometry is also used to find the right amount of one reactant to "completely" react with the other reactant in a chemical reaction - that is, the stoichiometric amounts that would result in no leftover reactants when the reaction takes place”.
stoichiometric..very good word..thanks for commenting..safe journeys
Black powder doesn't rely on oxygen in the air to burn.
I've found my pietta 58 new army like 30-35 gr alliant black mz and my uberti walker likes 45 both with a hornady 454 round ball wonder wad and bore butter those have the best accuracy and are plenty powerful and alliant mz is in between ffg and fffg
When I first test fire a cap and ball I proof it by filling the cylinder about 1/2 way with 4f and cram 2 balls on it, or I'll fill he cylinder with 4f and a ball and start prayin
That is insanely stupid and dangerous
remove this post you idiot !
Recently I was reading my copy of Dixie Gun Works catalog and in scrutinizing the bore diameter details in the various pistol descriptions(the DGW catalog gives a wonderfully exhaustive run down of the manifold features of all the firearms as you may well know),I realized that nearly all the revolvers had a rather substantial difference between the chamber diameters and the barrel-bore diameters(groove-to-groove, specifically speaking). The projectiles were larger than cylinder chambers but smaller( I think) than barrel bore,groove-to-groove of course. I've viewed several of your videos but I can't remember if you treated this subject or no. Obviously when we ram down a .454 ball into a .446 chamber throat we no longer have a .454 ball hitting a .450(?) bore. It may not even be a concern? But can this condition affect accuracy? Has it been a problem for you? I know you have considered at length some where the need to check chamber's consistancy. Thanks again for your detailed information on the old guns too,Blackie.
when using pure led balls or bullets..the pressure of the power charge firing will cause the lead to bump up or flatten..and thus fill the bore to proper fit..the only trouble i have had was when i created hard lead bullets..these would not bump up and accuracy usually suffered
What is your favorite cap (brand and size) for an 1858 Pietta & an 1858 Uberti? Do you pinch your caps?
351WINCHESTER , Remington number 10
The only problem I can see with everything you explained about "Load Development" is that you are starting with a large load and then adjusting. The reason I see this as a potential problem is that many of these reproductions have a brass frame... Frame stretch may become an issue if you determine that the sweet spot in load size is quite large. Now, if you have a steel frame, etc., it's not an issue but if you have a brass frame, maybe the consideration of stretching might be a factor to take into play and you may want to start with a much lighter load (without leaving air space) and then adjust up from there. What do you think?
i have been wondering...the frames are not brass..they are in fact a metal called gun metal #6 a alloy of bronze and others..the henry rifles today modern made in .357 .44 mad 30-30 45-70 are all made from what seems to be the same gunmetal # 6..i wonder if those rifles are going to shoot loose as well....i guess time will tell
@@blackoracle69 thanks for the answer. That's interesting to know. I guess it would be interesting to see what happens I didn't know that about them metal. Either way I think that you're explanation and fix is a good one.
This is a little off subject. I have a question about casting round balls. I have an 1851 Conf. Navy and an 1858 Rem. New Army both in 44 cal. I have a LEE 2 cavity .454 mold. I also have about 5 pounds of Lyman #2 lead. Is it safe to use the Lyman #2 in my cap & ball pistols, or should I get some pure (99.9%) lead and use it for casting my round balls ? Thanks for all your hard work on these great videos. One more thing. I did not find a video in your library on casting round balls. Maybe consider doing one some time.
the #2 will work fine..in the long past the rifling of repo's was too shallow and the #2 lead would not grip well modern guns have better rifling and should shoot fine..i plan on doing a casting video in the future stay tuned..safe journeys
If possible can you please explain about fillers like corn meal or whatever you think is best
sure i used corn meal it is cheap and easy to get..plus it compresses well..usually drop in the charge you want to use fill chamber to top with corn meal..then compress a little with rammer to make a place for the ball to sit in loading..then seat ball..and shoot..the only thing ya need to look closely at is if you life in a place with..high humidity the corn meal can wick water from the air..if left open..( like here in my south when its 90% humidity some times)..in those times the extra water will dampen down you powder charge ..and you may get a squib if left loaded too long..be very aware of how the gun is shooting..if for any reason a shot felt soft or odd..stop pull caps and remove cyl and check bore to be sure a ball is not left there..hope this helps
Thanks for the reply and it does help I live in SC Myrtle Beach it's pretty humide you have any other ideas for humide areas just wanted to thank you again for the information and the reply
You cannot make a comparison to gasoline burning in a cylinder to Black powder if you understand the chemistry of black powder you would know it has its own oxygen source and unlike gasoline it requires no air so air space doesn't effect how clean it burns or how fast. The speed at which black powder burns is determined by the grain size FFFFg burns faster than FFFg and FFg is slower than the other two and the speed of its burning has some control over velocity. Black powder is going to be dirty no mater what and it will fowl the barrel but it's residues are water soluble.
Correct... His understanding of the burning of the powder is incorrect. The potassium nitrate is the source for the oxygen in the chemical reaction, not the air. By compressing the powder, you are affecting the speed that the burn progresses through the rest of the powder. That would also explain why having an air gap between the powder and the bullet would cause an explosion -- more of the powder is exposed to the initial spark from the primer / percussion cap / ignition source and it all starts burning at the same time, thus exceeding pressure of the chamber. By compressing the powder, you are getting a more controlled burn from one end to the other.
Blackie, if I might ask, Is there an Harbor Freight punch for an .50 cal Hawken rifle? I fire R.E.A.L.s and I back them with a cleaning patch. I get better accuracy with a patch behind the casting. Oh yeah. I love your videos.
i am sure if you do a search somebody must do that but have you thought of a paper patching like they did in the 1880's
@@blackoracle69 I did think of that, and wrapping them and forcing them backwards in the barrel, muzzle first, the patch tears and is left at the muzzle. I was wondering on using corrugated box stock, or card stock. Or something like that.
Is it possible to load very small loads (
sure..BUT.pour into chamber small dose of blackpowder..then FILL the rest of the chamber with corn meal ..that way there is no chance of air space which is a big no no....ALSO be sure each and every ball impacts the target..if in doubt check..do not let a ball stick in barrel then fire a second round..VERY BIG NO NO... be safe
My hammer hits yesterday cap only 50% of the time how do I fix that?
Deburr? What is that?
I have a '51 & '58 in .44 cal. Should you measure your powder charges by weight or by volume? I have (for example) a 30gr. spout on my flask. I fill the spout with Pyrodex 'P' powder and then weigh it on my digital scale and I get about 18gr. Big safety issue here.
i always use volume to measure my powder with
Thanks for the reply. I thought I should mention this because of any rookies out there that may be confused on whether to weigh or volume their charge. Merry Christmas.
+
On a 1860 model 5.5 barrel how much 2f/rs pyrodex should i use
It is a 36 cal.
what is the load you use for your remington? i have the 8in model and need a reference point for my load development
start with 30 grains of rs pryo or 3f..as a starting point usually around 35 or so you hit a sweet spot and the groups become consitant
Blackie, I have a 'C' 3rd Dragoon from the 70s with a loose base pin. How can I tighten it properly/maintian proper clearances etc?
a simple method would be to first make a good mark on the basepin and one on the recoil shield..now unscrew the base pin..add green locktight..( get on line or from brownells) add a few drops and screw back in being sure to make the marks you made line up now quick put gun back together and be sure everything is in proper place ...ya got a min or so tops before the green locktight sets up..thats should fix it
That s helpful!!! Should I put a shim or something on the lower frame to keep the clearence so that the cylinder won t rub/bind? Because that is what it is currently doing.
A question I picked up a bottle can of FG 1f. Is this safe to shoot in rifles
it can be shot in rifles but it is very large grain powder..so its ment for large bore shotguns and rifles..i shot my .50 cal flint with it and it turned in great accuracy..so i was shooting it in rifle matches..it will produce lower velocity than say 3F.. but it is safe to use
BLACKIE THOMAS thank you
Overlap your cutter closer to previous cut to lessen waste of good material would be my only criticism.
So pyrodex 3f p Black is good?
i have used it for yrs and really like it
blackoracle69 cool thank you you should make a video on casting your bullets really enjoy these videos they are helpful and really like the kukri videos
i plan on doing a talk on conicals vs round ball in the field
De-burring amounts to what?
in my earlier video i debur a 1861 navy and i also did on ( warning very long video!) on the 1858 remington..in short i check all parts for burrs or casting flaws that might hamper function..and take you step by step thru the process
Gotcha. I'll look for that video. Thanks. I've had my new 1858 now about 10 days and still have not shot it. Just waitin' on supplies to come.
Very informative video. But, I would rather see what you are doing rather than your face and it would help if main picture was in the center of the video. My opinion.
to much oxygen is lean
Nice info but dude I'm not interested in your grass. I need to see what's going on on the table.
You should consider using the Kaido Ojamaa Universal bullets. They are a
Keith type flat nose rebated base bullet series that have proven
themselves in various field tests effectively dropping wild hogs in the
200lb class easily out of 1860 and 1858 revolvers with a single shot and
a 25gr Triple 7 3fg charge. penetration rivaled our 45 Colt and 10mm
pistols that were used for comparison on the original field test against
wild boars in Florida.
You should consider using the Kaido Ojamaa Universal bullets. They are a
Keith type flat nose rebated base bullet series that have proven
themselves in various field tests effectively dropping wild hogs in the
200lb class easily out of 1860 and 1858 revolvers with a single shot and
a 25gr Triple 7 3fg charge. penetration rivaled our 45 Colt and 10mm
pistols that were used for comparison on the original field test against
wild boars in Florida.