I just spent 2 hours slowly going step by step with this video to tune my new Remington new army 44. Very knowledgeable and super helpful. Thanks for your efforts and dedication to correct information. Thanks again
I'm thinking that's the problem with my gun it jams up in the middle of shooting it then I have to mess around with it to get it unjammed I must have a burr catching it any thoughts?
@@dickydewpodcast Try stoning the edges of the hammer face. If it still happens put in SlixShot Nipples. I think I spelled it right. It won't give you the 100% solution, but it's a black powder revolver, the 98% solution is good. Blackies video is essential to getting there.
@@dickydewpodcast Not knowing what you are shooting but I would first assume if it ran properly then started jamming up in the mechanisms that it is probably a worn or damaged part. If you are referring to caps falling into the gun in the hammer well then just de-burr the notch in the hammer face as well as the hammer face and edges. You won;t have caps getting sucked off afterwards. Back in the day Colt did all that in the factory and today because of price point YOU must do it.
Thank YOU for taking your time with This. SUPPER Helpful, teaching old dogs- new tricks! I am RE-tuning my KIT Uberti (1st gun) I purchased and built at 13 to learn about firearms (over 4 decades ago1970s) with your help!
Thank you so very much for doing the 58 break down. I have the 1860 Colt and 1851 Navy, but just got the 1858 for Christmas, now I have it ready to go target shooting. Thanks for your help
Thanks for the video. Good info. After I tore down my '58 and deburred all the nooks and crannies and put her back together, I can definitely feel a difference.
Great to see your slant on the Remington..... I have owned 4, and presently have two... not genuine Remingtons of course, they are like rocking horse poo.... hard to find (not to mention expensive!). Mine are Ubertis and shoot well. This second pair were nor quite new when I got them, so have needed a little bit of work to get them just right. Your videos are really good.... thanks.
Blackie, thank-you so much for this video!...you made it look easy...i was actually able to diagnose & repair a broken cylinder block spring...plus the attention to detail was "marvelous"...thank-you again...jo'c
Highly appreciate your expertise and experience shared....AND...your gentlemanly demeanor..My Pietta .44 New Army is now very much well maintained..Thank you so much...
Great 👍 video and great information !! Thanks 🙏 so much for taking the time and care to make this very minutely detailed video on the 1858 Remington New Army revolver!! Yes, it was a long video, but there wasn’t a single minute that could be left out without compromising the quality of the information on the revolver!! I have a new Uberti 1858 on the way, has been on backorder and should be here next week. I’m really excited to get it in my hands and out to the range, but the first thing that is going to happen is a trip to the workshop bench for a detailed tune following the instructions in this video !! Thanks again Blackie for a fantastic video 🙏🙏😊😊😊😊
Hey Blackie. I just want to say thank you for all your interesting and informative videos on Black Powder revolvers. I am a vet and i live on a low SSDI fixed income now. ( Not service related just no cartilage in knees and very bad osteoarthritis in them as well ) There is not a lot of money left over at end of each month so if i want to buy something I don't need to live I have to set aside a little each month over a long time. Well I caught the Black Powder bug and I like to do a lot of research before I buy anything. I had a chance to hold a Confederate Navy 1851 in a Pawn shop about a year ago. The grip felt small in my , not large , hand. I decided to save a little more for the Pietta Brass frame 1858 Remington New Army which I have read is a bit larger grip than the 1951. I had the money as of last month but was waiting to see if Cabelas put their BP revolvers on sale for Fathers Day as they did last year. Well since Cabelas was bought by Bass Pro Shops there have been changes. Pietta 1851 Navy no longer on sale two times a year for $149.99 and goodbye to military discount. I finally pulled the trigger ( Pun Intended ) tonight and I bought my Pietta Brass Frame 1858 Remington New Army from Cabelas for $229.99. Shipping was free and with sales tax my total was $246.09. Delivery will be next Wednesday. I already have all the required gear to get started in BP. I plan to clean all the oil off and lube it with Balistol. I think it would be best to test fire it to see where the sights print and that it functions properly before i make any mods. Afterwards I plan to tune my 1858 and remove any burrs as per all your video suggestions. I am in no hurry and plan to take my time to do it right. Thanks again for all the great information sir. You helped me make a very informed decision. Bill D
I got a pietta 1858 new model Army sheriff in .36 cal. Someone was messing around with it and it was marked gunsmith special at a gun show Saturday. It was missing the loading group and cylinder pin. I am retired Army so he gave me a discount. $85 was the price and $70 parts I will have a working pistol. Later I will get a cylinder to put .38sp rounds through it. Good luck brother. Dirt darts have a rough time after service.
I usually use Spyderco fine or ultra fine white stones in places where I can. Everybody knows what slip stones are . They'll polish off a burr on metal without overdoing it. The old Spyderco 40 F set in the leather pouch. DMT used to make a ceramic needle hone too.
This weapon may have a couple spots that are more particular than the colt, but the break down reveals this weapon is simply superior to the colt in design.
Thank you for the lesson. I never even realized that about the safety, and IV been carrying that dang gun around for years.lucky I haven't shot myself in the foot.my ole dad did drop it once in the kitchen and it went off.shot a hole in the wall but luckily no one was hurt.
I expect to watch this video at least a few times. Just bought an ASM Remington repro, and will use this video to get it in top working order. Well done once again, Blackie! The explanation on the safety notch improvement was worth the time by itself.
Blackie I must have called you every single name in our bible and the next one over this video. This was my first time completely disassembling one of these to the last screw. It was a wonderful video no doubt but a few small tips would have saved me a few cuss words. 1)a focused view and description of each screw would be paramount! 2) showing each piece you removed in detail 3) showing the orientation of each removed in relative to the pistol. 4) a detailed (multiple views) of reinstallation of pieces and screws in relation to the pistol None the less, this video helped me tremendously and I thank you!! Now I know how to do it and have the confidence to do so.
I have been a c&b shooter since March of this year 2021 and a daily carrier of them since my first one brass 1851 and you continue to give me and all others practical daily use kind of advice and now when I need technical advice or practical information I turn to your channel instead of G.O.W. or Duelist 1954 I wish you would do a few more types of daily carry videos maybe tips and tricks for accuracy and proficiency or your thoughts on home made ammo or Caps or maybe home made bp
For grease, try the "Pro Gold" stuff....actually made especially for stainless steel modern guns, but is great on the 'innards' of the Remington/Colt revolvers. Works on cylinder pins too....
Great Video, as usual. Used this video to slick up a new Pietta 1858. The hand tunnel was pretty rough. (This is my 4th Italian reproduction that has been this way, coulple Ubertis also.) The dang spring roller on the hammer was jammed, and would not spin. It took me 4 hours of sanding to relieve the round contour behind that roller! Spins freely now. Thanks for the help!
We accidentally found out about that Corsican screw company that makes screws that aren’t metric or standardized English measurements but an Italian thing to screw the rest of us over. On those special places where they were used, it maybe beneficial to use some little paint 🎨 🖊 or some colored locktite to secure the screws from coming out and make an identifiable relocatable position for easy distinction later on. Whenever taking 🚘 apart I use the paint 🎨 🖊 pens or fingernail polish/paint to identify parts, so they don’t get confused 😐 by the daydreaming mechanics 🧰. My air rifles frame bolts all came out eventually, so new stainless bolts and lock-tite on the new ones cured the problem. My next acquisitions are the bison of buffalo revolvers in brass frame and eventually their stainless model to put a little scope rail onto for a red dot 🔴 site, as a hunting pistol 🔫 , old south has a shoulder stock for the pistols, I’d like to modify it to have ports or access holes 🕳 for paper cartridges/ammunition storage and a little place for caps and the powder, and required tools 🛠 all tucked inside the stock, maybe make a loading stand somewhere on the stock, so campsite 🏕 or trail side loading would be a breeze in a remote location. I’m going to talk to the furniture restoration guy about inlaid work, hopefully he’s not too expensive.
Great video. I have 2 Remington's. One Sheriff's model like that and a navy in .36 or what they call a belt gun. They are brand new. I need to take them apart and check them out good after I shoot them a few times. I like the front sight marks idea.
Thanks, good info. I watched the entire video, you did not mention the groves in your cylinder pin. You did mention it in another video as preventing the cylinder from binding up.
@@BLACKIETHOMAS i got two brass 2020 navy 44 i wanted a Remington but it wasn't there. So I got it again because I might not see them around anymore but I want something different. Wants up Blackie
Cylinder pin don't come put on the shorter barrel "Sheriff" model? Interesting. On the 1858's I had the loading lever catch wasn't threaded into the barrel. I think they may have been silver soldered in place long before they came into my possession. Using round ball, what is your powder charge? On mine, the manual said 30 grains FFFg, but the ball didn't compress the powder. I shot 40 grains FFFg with round ball, and sealed the chamber mouth with uncooked Malt-O-Meal or Cream of Wheat, shooting blanks (Civil War Reenactments) or shooting live rounds. The uncooked cereal is nonflamable, and I believe helped scrub fowling/powder residue from the previous shot from the barrel, without damaging the rifling. I prefer the Remington 1858 over the Colt open tops. The 1858 has better sights and is a stronger design. Are you going to do a video like this on the LeMat revolver?
You should name that revolver "Mr. Jiggles". Also anyone watching this should see from the ease of screwing the screws that hollow ground screwdrivers are a must. If you do BUY AMERICAN MADE.
Hello my friend. I want to start by saying I love your channel and the black powder revolver content is top shelf. Now that that is out of the way I have a question for you. I have an original 1858 Remington and I shoot it a lot , it is my field carry every time I go in the woods. The question is...will the new cylinder conversions from Tayler and company fit in an original? I know they make them for uberti and Pietta clones but there is no mention if they will fit an original. I am guessing that the Uberti cylinders will be closer than the pieta because the Uberti is closer to the original. I am prepared to change all of the internals of the pistol if needs be, I just think 45 colt would be an easier field carry. Just thought I would get your two cents. Thanks in advance, keep up the great work my friend.
My new, new model 1858 came from Cabela's with the barrel ever so slightly over-screwed in. The front site isn't lined up with the frame and the ram rod catch on the bottom of the barrel is affected, too, subsequently. So in a small bind not wanting to return it over just that, but need to tweak it. Hate the thought off messing up the metal trying to twist the barrel with something.
Too much trouble. I'll find a way to turn the barrel. I just don't have a bench in the garage with big, solid vise. A strap wrench would be good if I could find one that adjusts to only the diameter of a barrel.
my humble suggestion..would be to make a clamp of some sort with non metal padding against the barrel..then clamp( solid!) to unmoving bench..create a wooden mallet ( THINK LIKE A 2FT MADDOX HANDLE)) that will just slid into the frame cyl opening and turn the frame VERY CAREFULLY..good luck safe journeys
That's the way to go, getting a stick for a lever thru the frame and turn the frame. I saw online where another guy had this problem and said he thought the barrel was pinned because he couldn't budge it. I think they don't but may have a real tight fit and could have red loctited it...I don't know. But from what I understand it's going to take a lot of force to budge it so whatever I rig to hold that barrel has to hold it really tight. I'll get it. Ain't gonna over worry the issue. Thanks for you response. I like watching gun vids so thanks for yours.
Thanks Blackie, I've been an educator for 30 yrs. I've got a feeling that you either are a teacher or you are a natural teaching talent. I bought my first bp pistols from an add in a magazine - 3 guns for $119 in 1968. I shot all of them loose--they truly were crap. I have a much better breed of bp pistols now. What do you think about drop in cylinders? I have one in 44 for a Steel Remington and it works fine. Curious to know if you have tried them.
Many thanks Blackie, I do enjoy your videos. I would like to raise one point though, you: like other black powder enthusiasts do not mention anything about lubrication when re-assembling the gun?
If you can't remove the base pin on the sheriff model of the new army Remington how hard is it the get fouling out of the hole the base pin goes through?
I'd like to do more cap and ball shooting but the mess and cleaning of black powder is considerable. I'd like to find a black powder alternative but I'm in Australia and Blackhorn black powder replacement isn't available here. (as far as I can tell). Does anyone have a formula for Blachorn 209 (or something similarly "clean"?). The guns I use are 1) Original Winchester 1873 rifle. 44/40 2) Deane Adams and Deane original revolver. 3) Repro Colt Walker revolver (Colt brand but probably made by Uberti or similar). 4) original 6 barrel pepperbox pistol. 5) Original Le Forcheux pinfire revolver. The original pistols _must_ have low pressures, or they'll get damaged. I think it'd be too risky to use smokeless powder. Any suggestions or assistance would be greatly appreciated.
If after you put it back together it starts to rotate correctly up to half cock, but when you go all the way to full cock and the cylinder rotates backwards...what would be the problem?
Really good video Blackie. My 1858 New Army is still in the box it came in. I took it out to see if it was in working order and if it was what I ordered. I ordered some of the things I will need to even use it, like caps, balls, wads, etc. I still need the gunsmith bits, driver and other tools. What do you suggest in degreasing it and getting it ready to be fired?
@@BLACKIETHOMAS thank you Blackie. That's exactly what I was thinking. I was thinking of removing the grips and then just soaking the rest that way. I ordered Ballistol spray also.
Blackie Thomas, May I ask what tool kit you are using? I am looking to buy one and have been considering the Winchester 51 piece screwdriver set. I'm can't spend a whole lot of money, but still want something half way decent. Thanks in advance for your reply and any recommended alternatives. Enjoy your videos, they're very informative. Keep them coming.
Hi Blackie I just got through doing this to my new Pietta New Army Sheriffs Model. I saw where the Hand spring had come out of the Notch when I Place all the Parts in a can.the slot I put it back in the slot and it took some force to put back in and bottom it in its slot so its not loose as a goose but I am wondering whether I need to put a drop of super glue in the slot to help keep it in ? Also what would you recommend as a grease for the innards of the revolver ? All I have here at the house is Crisco,vegetable oil and a light gun oil(Montana extreme ,ingredients glycol ether,terpenes,silicones,and liquid petroleum). Thanks Billy
ive got a 8" barreled version pietta model coming,ive also got a 5.5"barrel coming with it..can I remove the 8"barrel and put the 5.5"barrel on the same frame?is the loading lever assembly the same on both the 8"model and the 5.5" model..in other words can I use the 5.5"barrel?
Is there anything I can do to the cam to cause the bolt to drop later? Someone recommended filing the side of the cam but wouldn't that make it drop sooner?
Blackie I am a subscriber and very much enjoy your videos on black powder percussion revolvers. I purchased a Spiller and Burr repro brass frame Pietta. Hammer cocking is stiff and the trigger pull I would guess north of 12 lbs. The action is very similar to a Remington but the grip is shorter hence a shorter mainspring. Is the trigger pull a function of the mainspring, trigger/bolt spring or sear?The mainspring has two bends in it and seems overly thick. Any comments or suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
Blackie thanks a lot for this video. Very informative. I've used it now on two Pietta 1858 New Armies, one a brass frame 8 inch, the other a Steel Frame 5 1/2 inch. Have you shared anything on how you patinaed your gun? To do this would I just strip the frame, remove blue with a birchwood casey blue remover, and then keep gradually giving it patina by applying bore butter and rubbing out surface rust?
A great video sir! I don't know if the one detractor of this video is blind and not gun savvy. I was new to this once and was afraid to breakdown the rigger group. You have to learn this or, as you said, the internals will rust up. You have to break it down sometime. I use only black powder in my guns. Can be corrosive. I also use black powder oils and cleaners. I will ask you Blackey why no oil based products in the barrel?
oils made from crude oil reacts with blackpowder when they are burned together..they produce a very hard tar.that quickly gums up the barrel and accuracy is lost..natural lubes ( beeswax.soy..lard..ect) do not react and so i use a beeswax/lube in the bore and anyplace black powder might build up..but in the closed part of the action modern grease is used cause it will not dry up and turn hard in the long run..thanks for the comments safe journeys
+blackoracle69 I did not know that. I'm glad I use only lubes for BP. I have a Pedersoli Springfield 1861 and P-58 Enfield. They weren't cheap. I've been lookin at a sheriffs model. I have the 1858 Army. Love it. They are easier to take down in my opinion to a colt.
I'm working on an older Uberti model I picked up and this is very helpful. One issue I have is that the cylinder sometimes doesn't rotate and the hand seems to be somewhat damaged (at least its not symetrical) have you seen this issue as well?
Thanks man I just found you channel and this was a great video.. I do have one question.. why would you not do the safety notch mod on every notch, so you dont have to pick a specific spot to lock the cylinder?
i did that because if i load the cyl full (all 6) then i place in that safety notch..when i fire the hammer will be resting on a empty chamber...if i fire a second time i will reload the first chamber fired this way i always keep the hammer down on empty as i hunt for small game..thus the safety notch is only used when i am shooting at the range for score..or when i am in the field hunting and a full cyl is in the gun
Hey Blackie. Thanks again for all your great videos. I mentioned in an earlier comment that I finally pulled the trigger ( haha...pun intended ) on buying my Pietta 1858 New Army black powder revolver. I am very happy with the look and feel of my new revolver. The action seems very smooth out of the box. There was some tool marks and sharp places on the inside places of the brass. I used a worn down foam woman's nail emery buffing stick to polish out the high spots. I found after slicking up the inside of the brass frame removing and re installing the cylinder was a lot smoother. I have not had a chance to go to the Autozone to buy 3 or 4 thousand grit sand paper yet. What do you think of using metal polish like Flitz or Brasso to polish trigger and hammer parts that contact other parts? I have Atrial Fibrilation of the heart and severe osteoarthritis in both knees so I am waiting for a good day to go to the range to shoot. I do plan on doing your full tune up but I wanted to try a shooting session stock out of the box first. I spend a lot of time in my recliner. When I have a new gun I do like to practice dry firing to get the muscle memory worked into my brains neural pathways well. I know i can't dry fire on bare nipples ( hehe ). I wanted to ask you if you think it is ok to dry fire the 1858 with the cylinder removed? Thanks again for your videos sir. I live on SSI low fixed income so I always do a lot of research before i start saving up for any major purchase. Your videos helped me make my decision to spend a bit more and go for the Pietta 1858. Bill D.
Bill, I rolled up a piece of leather and glued the edge so it wouldn't come apart. I place the leather roll between the hammer and frame and I can dry-fire all day and not hurt the frame, hammer, or nipples. You could also use a piece of cloth, but be sure to roll it tight.
Hi Blackie. I managed to screw-up my original hammer by over-filing the face to solve a nipple peening problem and had to buy a replacement. The new hammer cam is different in angle to my original and the bolt wouldn't release to lock up my cylinder upon full cock. I carefully filed the cam to match the original as closely as possible and it worked. The weird thing is, it used to have 3 clicks but now seems to only have 2. It locks-up perfectly on very slow and moderate speed cocks but will over-travel when cocked very fast.I don't see a circumstance where I would cock it that fast but it bugs me that it isn't 100%. Should I leave well enough alone or is there a simple remedy for the 2-click over-travel issue? Thanks.
you can leave alone or check to see if cyl bolt is being lazy in locking up a bur in the channel where it comes up to clock cyl will slow it a bit..a new trigger/bolt spring..amy help the fast cock lock up
I just got a new Uberti 1858, the hand on half cock is out and hard to rotate the cylinder it's so strong making getting the cylinder a pain to get back in. Is there anything I need or can do to make the cylinder easier to install?
Hi Blackie I posted a couple of Questions to this a couple of weeks ago about the hand spring coming out and lubrication of the innards. I know that you have been busy ,when you get a second I would appreciate it if you would help me with the questions. Thank you much
sorry its the busy time of yrs for me..if you would send me questions on my facebook page..its blackie thomas..and i will be happy to help you one to one if i can
I have a similar problem as ThePants has. My 20 year-old Pietta Remmie works just fine with the original cylinder in it but the 20 year old replacement cylinder has cocking issues. Four chambers will lock up on full cock (but barely) and the other 2 only click 2 times with no final 3rd click of the hammer. The cylinder bolt is always completely locked-up with all 6 though. Is there a problem with the depth of the ratchet on the back of the cylinder? Is this something that can be fixed? Thanks.
my brand new 1858 sheriff has a lot of burrs in the area of the base pin and loading lever, i`ve already polished where the loading lever inserts, need more job but i`m getting there. my problem is the base pin, after sticking it in and out some times it came with some very litle shavings, and i wanted to polish it . any ideas how to remove it?
the only way is to remove the loading lever latch..i have not done that myself..i think its a pressed in part..and if removed would have to be somehow epoxyed /glued back in and that a headed ache i want to avoid..wish i could be a better help but that is one of the negative points on such a great and handy revolver
I just spent 2 hours slowly going step by step with this video to tune my new Remington new army 44.
Very knowledgeable and super helpful.
Thanks for your efforts and dedication to correct information.
Thanks again
glad you found it of use..safe journeys
Thank you. I enjoyed your video and slicked up my Pietta after watching it. You made it two years ago but its timeless info. Great job!
I'm thinking that's the problem with my gun it jams up in the middle of shooting it then I have to mess around with it to get it unjammed I must have a burr catching it any thoughts?
@@dickydewpodcast Try stoning the edges of the hammer face. If it still happens put in SlixShot Nipples. I think I spelled it right. It won't give you the 100% solution, but it's a black powder revolver, the 98% solution is good. Blackies video is essential to getting there.
@@dickydewpodcast Not knowing what you are shooting but I would first assume if it ran properly then started jamming up in the mechanisms that it is probably a worn or damaged part. If you are referring to caps falling into the gun in the hammer well then just de-burr the notch in the hammer face as well as the hammer face and edges. You won;t have caps getting sucked off afterwards. Back in the day Colt did all that in the factory and today because of price point YOU must do it.
This video is pure gold. Thank you for taking the time to do this. I was able to step-by-step follow along and smooth up my 1858.
Thank YOU for taking your time with This. SUPPER Helpful, teaching old dogs- new tricks!
I am RE-tuning my KIT Uberti (1st gun) I purchased and built at 13 to learn about firearms (over 4 decades ago1970s) with your help!
good luck..go slow..i hope it rewards you in the end
Outstanding video! Really good stuff, thanks! Learned a lot. These percussion revolver videos are the absolute best.
This is the most comprehensive breakdown video of the 1858 I have ever seen. Awesome job and thanks for helping me tune the ol' .44!
Pm me mac
It's good to see I wasn't the only person who had trouble with the hammer spring.
Thank you so very much for doing the 58 break down. I have the 1860 Colt and 1851 Navy, but just got the 1858 for Christmas, now I have it ready to go target shooting. Thanks for your help
Thanks for the video. Good info. After I tore down my '58 and deburred all the nooks and crannies and put her back together, I can definitely feel a difference.
Good video. I'll have to come back when I decide to clean up my Pietta Remington. Thumb up.
Ballenxj pm me
Thanks Blackie. Just got my 1858 Remington today and did a complete tear down and debur from your video. Reassembled and it works great! Thanks.
Thank you Blackie. Fantastic video!!
Great to see your slant on the Remington..... I have owned 4, and presently have two... not genuine Remingtons of course, they are like rocking horse poo.... hard to find (not to mention expensive!). Mine are Ubertis and shoot well. This second pair were nor quite new when I got them, so have needed a little bit of work to get them just right.
Your videos are really good.... thanks.
Pm me
Blackie, thank-you so much for this video!...you made it look easy...i was actually able to diagnose & repair a broken cylinder block spring...plus the attention to detail was "marvelous"...thank-you again...jo'c
Glad it helped
Highly appreciate your expertise and experience shared....AND...your gentlemanly demeanor..My Pietta .44 New Army is now very much well maintained..Thank you so much...
glad to be of help
Great video, excellent information, great presentation. Thank you!
Great 👍 video and great information !! Thanks 🙏 so much for taking the time and care to make this very minutely detailed video on the 1858 Remington New Army revolver!! Yes, it was a long video, but there wasn’t a single minute that could be left out without compromising the quality of the information on the revolver!! I have a new Uberti 1858 on the way, has been on backorder and should be here next week. I’m really excited to get it in my hands and out to the range, but the first thing that is going to happen is a trip to the workshop bench for a detailed tune following the instructions in this video !! Thanks again Blackie for a fantastic video 🙏🙏😊😊😊😊
This is a great instruction and a video I will refer to time and again! Thank you so much!
Excellent video. I need to tune and your instruction has helped me a lot. Thank you .
Very detailed video, clear & concise
Thank you Blackie very informative enjoyable video.🤔
Hey Blackie. I just want to say thank you for all your interesting and informative videos on Black Powder revolvers.
I am a vet and i live on a low SSDI fixed income now. ( Not service related just no cartilage in knees and very bad osteoarthritis in them as well )
There is not a lot of money left over at end of each month so if i want to buy something I don't need to live I have to set aside a little each month
over a long time.
Well I caught the Black Powder bug and I like to do a lot of research before I buy anything. I had a chance to hold a Confederate Navy 1851 in a Pawn shop
about a year ago. The grip felt small in my , not large , hand. I decided to save a little more for the Pietta Brass frame 1858 Remington New Army which I have read is a bit larger grip than the 1951.
I had the money as of last month but was waiting to see if Cabelas put their BP revolvers on sale for Fathers Day as they did last year.
Well since Cabelas was bought by Bass Pro Shops there have been changes. Pietta 1851 Navy no longer on sale two times a year for $149.99 and goodbye to
military discount.
I finally pulled the trigger ( Pun Intended ) tonight and I bought my Pietta Brass Frame 1858 Remington New Army from Cabelas for $229.99.
Shipping was free and with sales tax my total was $246.09. Delivery will be next Wednesday. I already have all the required gear to get started in BP.
I plan to clean all the oil off and lube it with Balistol. I think it would be best to test fire it to see where the sights print and that it functions properly before i make any mods.
Afterwards I plan to tune my 1858 and remove any burrs as per all your video suggestions. I am in no hurry and plan to take my time to do it right.
Thanks again for all the great information sir. You helped me make a very informed decision.
Bill D
I got a pietta 1858 new model Army sheriff in .36 cal. Someone was messing around with it and it was marked gunsmith special at a gun show Saturday. It was missing the loading group and cylinder pin. I am retired Army so he gave me a discount. $85 was the price and $70 parts I will have a working pistol. Later I will get a cylinder to put .38sp rounds through it. Good luck brother. Dirt darts have a rough time after service.
I am extremely good at taking things apart, it is the coming together of all the parts that gets to be a problem.
I usually use Spyderco fine or ultra fine white stones in places where I can. Everybody knows what slip stones are . They'll polish off a burr on metal without overdoing it. The old Spyderco 40 F set in the leather pouch. DMT used to make a ceramic needle hone too.
Thanks great information.
Outstanding video. Thank you.
This weapon may have a couple spots that are more particular than the colt, but the break down reveals this weapon is simply superior to the colt in design.
The Beale's design was not improved on until the Ruger Old Army was introduced
Much superior. All the way around except for the fouling issue.
I want a used one i got 2020 brass navy 44 I wanna find a trade
@@chadwilson7577 How much you want for it?
Thank you for the lesson. I never even realized that about the safety, and IV been carrying that dang gun around for years.lucky I haven't shot myself in the foot.my ole dad did drop it once in the kitchen and it went off.shot a hole in the wall but luckily no one was hurt.
Ok, I have 2 '58's....This has been very informative,thanks.
Winfield Johnson pm me
love this series of kept all of them I do plan on that model after vacation this fall thanks blackie atb brother ....tom
'mornin, Blackie; Very informative, even with the lenght of the video. Very much appreciate all you put into this 1 Friend. ATB Terry God Bless
I expect to watch this video at least a few times. Just bought an ASM Remington repro, and will use this video to get it in top working order.
Well done once again, Blackie! The explanation on the safety notch improvement was worth the time by itself.
Blackie I must have called you every single name in our bible and the next one over this video. This was my first time completely disassembling one of these to the last screw.
It was a wonderful video no doubt but a few small tips would have saved me a few cuss words.
1)a focused view and description of each screw would be paramount!
2) showing each piece you removed in detail
3) showing the orientation of each removed in relative to the pistol.
4) a detailed (multiple views) of reinstallation of pieces and screws in relation to the pistol
None the less, this video helped me tremendously and I thank you!!
Now I know how to do it and have the confidence to do so.
Thanks, you did a super job on this video.
Thank you very much. This is priceless information. Wonderful indeed !
I have been a c&b shooter since March of this year 2021 and a daily carrier of them since my first one brass 1851 and you continue to give me and all others practical daily use kind of advice and now when I need technical advice or practical information I turn to your channel instead of G.O.W. or Duelist 1954 I wish you would do a few more types of daily carry videos maybe tips and tricks for accuracy and proficiency or your thoughts on home made ammo or Caps or maybe home made bp
enjoyed this showing Very much Thank You
Great video 👍🏻
For grease, try the "Pro Gold" stuff....actually made especially for stainless steel modern guns, but is great on the 'innards' of the Remington/Colt revolvers. Works on cylinder pins too....
Great video! Thanks, you make it look so easy...
Great Video, as usual. Used this video to slick up a new Pietta 1858. The hand tunnel was pretty rough. (This is my 4th Italian reproduction that has been this way, coulple Ubertis also.) The dang spring roller on the hammer was jammed, and would not spin. It took me 4 hours of sanding to relieve the round contour behind that roller! Spins freely now. Thanks for the help!
Nice vid thank ya, I know im late to party but just finally got me a '58.
I just got an 1858, what size ball do you use a .451 or .454?
Why do they keep saying that these are Model 1858 when they are New Model 1963? The whole reproduction industry does it!
great vid
Thank you so much for this. I have 2 P-R-NMA, an 8" and a 5.5"
You want a 2020 brass navy pieata i want a Remington
Thank You for the awesome content!
Love your vids on black powder. Appreciated.
thank you blackie
Excellent thanks !
Yes helps bunches. Thanks God bless.
Thank you Sir.
The burr clearly is your nemisis. Haha. Thanks for the vid. I will watch all the others too.
We accidentally found out about that Corsican screw company that makes screws that aren’t metric or standardized English measurements but an Italian thing to screw the rest of us over. On those special places where they were used, it maybe beneficial to use some little paint 🎨 🖊 or some colored locktite to secure the screws from coming out and make an identifiable relocatable position for easy distinction later on. Whenever taking 🚘 apart I use the paint 🎨 🖊 pens or fingernail polish/paint to identify parts, so they don’t get confused 😐 by the daydreaming mechanics 🧰. My air rifles frame bolts all came out eventually, so new stainless bolts and lock-tite on the new ones cured the problem. My next acquisitions are the bison of buffalo revolvers in brass frame and eventually their stainless model to put a little scope rail onto for a red dot 🔴 site, as a hunting pistol 🔫 , old south has a shoulder stock for the pistols, I’d like to modify it to have ports or access holes 🕳 for paper cartridges/ammunition storage and a little place for caps and the powder, and required tools 🛠 all tucked inside the stock, maybe make a loading stand somewhere on the stock, so campsite 🏕 or trail side loading would be a breeze in a remote location. I’m going to talk to the furniture restoration guy about inlaid work, hopefully he’s not too expensive.
Don't forget to add a coffee grinder...
Nice. Thank you. I learned.
Trzeba przyznać że rzeczowy i konkretny materiał :-) Na jego podstawie zrobiłem swojego Remingtona :-) Dzięki i Pozdrawiam.
That trigger screw was whoopin your ass. I was beginning to think you weren't going to get it.
Great video. I have 2 Remington's. One Sheriff's model like that and a navy in .36 or what they call a belt gun. They are brand new. I need to take them apart and check them out good after I shoot them a few times. I like the front sight marks idea.
Pm me
Excellent video. One of the best videographers out there. Only criticism is that he makes no allowance for us 10 thumbers. :)
thankyou
Thanks, good info.
I watched the entire video, you did not mention the groves in your cylinder pin.
You did mention it in another video as preventing the cylinder from binding up.
We love you
Thank you.
love the gun bro!
thank you sir..
@@BLACKIETHOMAS i got two brass 2020 navy 44 i wanted a Remington but it wasn't there. So I got it again because I might not see them around anymore but I want something different. Wants up Blackie
Cylinder pin don't come put on the shorter barrel "Sheriff" model?
Interesting.
On the 1858's I had the loading lever catch wasn't threaded into the barrel. I think they may have been silver soldered in place long before they came into my possession.
Using round ball, what is your powder charge?
On mine, the manual said 30 grains FFFg, but the ball didn't compress the powder.
I shot 40 grains FFFg with round ball, and sealed the chamber mouth with uncooked Malt-O-Meal or Cream of Wheat, shooting blanks (Civil War Reenactments) or shooting live rounds.
The uncooked cereal is nonflamable, and I believe helped scrub fowling/powder residue from the previous shot from the barrel, without damaging the rifling.
I prefer the Remington 1858 over the Colt open tops. The 1858 has better sights and is a stronger design.
Are you going to do a video like this on the LeMat revolver?
You should name that revolver "Mr. Jiggles". Also anyone watching this should see from the ease of screwing the screws that hollow ground screwdrivers are a must. If you do BUY AMERICAN MADE.
you know your stuff................cheers
Hello my friend. I want to start by saying I love your channel and the black powder revolver content is top shelf. Now that that is out of the way I have a question for you. I have an original 1858 Remington and I shoot it a lot , it is my field carry every time I go in the woods. The question is...will the new cylinder conversions from Tayler and company fit in an original?
I know they make them for uberti and Pietta clones but there is no mention if they will fit an original. I am guessing that the Uberti cylinders will be closer than the pieta because the Uberti is closer to the original.
I am prepared to change all of the internals of the pistol if needs be, I just think 45 colt would be an easier field carry. Just thought I would get your two cents.
Thanks in advance, keep up the great work my friend.
Dat is wery zajebisty poradnik about guns czarnoprochowych ;-) Like to :-)
My new, new model 1858 came from Cabela's with the barrel ever so slightly over-screwed in. The front site isn't lined up with the frame and the ram rod catch on the bottom of the barrel is affected, too, subsequently. So in a small bind not wanting to return it over just that, but need to tweak it. Hate the thought off messing up the metal trying to twist the barrel with something.
contact cabela's and see about a return..they should take it back for all that wrong with it
Too much trouble. I'll find a way to turn the barrel. I just don't have a bench in the garage with big, solid vise. A strap wrench would be good if I could find one that adjusts to only the diameter of a barrel.
my humble suggestion..would be to make a clamp of some sort with non metal padding against the barrel..then clamp( solid!) to unmoving bench..create a wooden mallet ( THINK LIKE A 2FT MADDOX HANDLE)) that will just slid into the frame cyl opening and turn the frame VERY CAREFULLY..good luck safe journeys
That's the way to go, getting a stick for a lever thru the frame and turn the frame. I saw online where another guy had this problem and said he thought the barrel was pinned because he couldn't budge it. I think they don't but may have a real tight fit and could have red loctited it...I don't know. But from what I understand it's going to take a lot of force to budge it so whatever I rig to hold that barrel has to hold it really tight. I'll get it. Ain't gonna over worry the issue. Thanks for you response. I like watching gun vids so thanks for yours.
Sagebrush: How did it turn out?
Thanks Blackie, I've been an educator for 30 yrs. I've got a feeling that you either are a teacher or you are a natural teaching talent. I bought my first bp pistols from an add in a magazine - 3 guns for $119 in 1968. I shot all of them loose--they truly were crap. I have a much better breed of bp pistols now. What do you think about drop in cylinders? I have one in 44 for a Steel Remington and it works fine. Curious to know if you have tried them.
Many thanks Blackie, I do enjoy your videos. I would like to raise one point though, you: like other black powder enthusiasts do not mention anything about lubrication when re-assembling the gun?
"little suckers". Thats a good name for that screws...
Would you modify the base pin with grease grooves, on an original 1858? Or would it be best keeping it original?
If you can't remove the base pin on the sheriff model of the new army Remington how hard is it the get fouling out of the hole the base pin goes through?
how can I know the correct tension of the main spring?
Moral of my story. Clean the same day you shoot.
I'd like to do more cap and ball shooting but the mess and cleaning of black powder is considerable. I'd like to find a black powder alternative but I'm in Australia and Blackhorn black powder replacement isn't available here. (as far as I can tell).
Does anyone have a formula for Blachorn 209 (or something similarly "clean"?). The guns I use are
1) Original Winchester 1873 rifle. 44/40
2) Deane Adams and Deane original revolver.
3) Repro Colt Walker revolver (Colt brand but probably made by Uberti or similar).
4) original 6 barrel pepperbox pistol.
5) Original Le Forcheux pinfire revolver.
The original pistols _must_ have low pressures, or they'll get damaged. I think it'd be too risky to use smokeless powder.
Any suggestions or assistance would be greatly appreciated.
If after you put it back together it starts to rotate correctly up to half cock, but when you go all the way to full cock and the cylinder rotates backwards...what would be the problem?
I noticed that during reassembly that you did not lubricate any of the moving internal parts. Is it recommended not to do so??
LIGHT LUBE IS FINE BUT HEAVY WILL GUM UP WIT HTHE FOULING THAT MAKES IT WAY INTO THE ACTION..GOOD QUESTION BY THE WAY THANKS FOR POSTING
Really good video Blackie. My 1858 New Army is still in the box it came in. I took it out to see if it was in working order and if it was what I ordered. I ordered some of the things I will need to even use it, like caps, balls, wads, etc. I still need the gunsmith bits, driver and other tools. What do you suggest in degreasing it and getting it ready to be fired?
hot water and a dash of dawn dishwashing liquid will do a good job
@@BLACKIETHOMAS thank you Blackie. That's exactly what I was thinking. I was thinking of removing the grips and then just soaking the rest that way. I ordered Ballistol spray also.
Thank you for an excellent and professional video. Extremly helpful. Is there a way to contact you with a question on the weapon?
Blackie Thomas, May I ask what tool kit you are using? I am looking to buy one and have been considering the Winchester 51 piece screwdriver set. I'm can't spend a whole lot of money, but still want something half way decent. Thanks in advance for your reply and any recommended alternatives. Enjoy your videos, they're very informative. Keep them coming.
walmart carries a scredriver set in sporting good for a good price that should fill your needs
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Thanks
Hi Blackie
I just got through doing this to my new Pietta New Army Sheriffs Model.
I saw where the Hand spring had come out of the Notch when I Place all the Parts in a can.the slot
I put it back in the slot and it took some force to put back in and bottom it in its slot so its not loose as a goose but I am wondering whether I need to put a drop of super glue in the slot to help keep it in ?
Also what would you recommend as a grease for the innards of the revolver ?
All I have here at the house is Crisco,vegetable oil and a light gun oil(Montana extreme ,ingredients glycol ether,terpenes,silicones,and liquid petroleum).
Thanks
Billy
I guess if you put the screws back you don’t have to figure out where they all go at the end 👍🏻
ive got a 8" barreled version pietta model coming,ive also got a 5.5"barrel coming with it..can I remove the 8"barrel and put the 5.5"barrel on the same frame?is the loading lever assembly the same on both the 8"model and the 5.5" model..in other words can I use the 5.5"barrel?
Is there anything I can do to the cam to cause the bolt to drop later? Someone recommended filing the side of the cam but wouldn't that make it drop sooner?
Blackie I am a subscriber and very much enjoy your videos on black powder percussion revolvers. I purchased a Spiller and Burr repro brass frame Pietta. Hammer cocking is stiff and the trigger pull I would guess north of 12 lbs. The action is very similar to a Remington but the grip is shorter hence a shorter mainspring. Is the trigger pull a function of the mainspring, trigger/bolt spring or sear?The mainspring has two bends in it and seems overly thick. Any comments or suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
Blackie thanks a lot for this video. Very informative. I've used it now on two Pietta 1858 New Armies, one a brass frame 8 inch, the other a Steel Frame 5 1/2 inch. Have you shared anything on how you patinaed your gun? To do this would I just strip the frame, remove blue with a birchwood casey blue remover, and then keep gradually giving it patina by applying bore butter and rubbing out surface rust?
nevermind I found the how to antique video
Do you do tunes on 1858s? I am interested in having you tune mine.
A great video sir! I don't know if the one detractor of this video is blind and not gun savvy. I was new to this once and was afraid to breakdown the rigger group. You have to learn this or, as you said, the internals will rust up. You have to break it down sometime. I use only black powder in my guns. Can be corrosive. I also use black powder oils and cleaners. I will ask you Blackey why no oil based products in the barrel?
oils made from crude oil reacts with blackpowder when they are burned together..they produce a very hard tar.that quickly gums up the barrel and accuracy is lost..natural lubes ( beeswax.soy..lard..ect) do not react and so i use a beeswax/lube in the bore and anyplace black powder might build up..but in the closed part of the action modern grease is used cause it will not dry up and turn hard in the long run..thanks for the comments safe journeys
+blackoracle69 I did not know that. I'm glad I use only lubes for BP. I have a Pedersoli Springfield 1861 and P-58 Enfield. They weren't cheap. I've been lookin at a sheriffs model. I have the 1858 Army. Love it. They are easier to take down in my opinion to a colt.
I'm working on an older Uberti model I picked up and this is very helpful. One issue I have is that the cylinder sometimes doesn't rotate and the hand seems to be somewhat damaged (at least its not symetrical) have you seen this issue as well?
Will a Colt hammer spring work on the Remington?
no sir the remington has more of a curve to it..
Thanks man I just found you channel and this was a great video..
I do have one question.. why would you not do the safety notch mod on every notch, so you dont have to pick a specific spot to lock the cylinder?
i did that because if i load the cyl full (all 6) then i place in that safety notch..when i fire the hammer will be resting on a empty chamber...if i fire a second time i will reload the first chamber fired this way i always keep the hammer down on empty as i hunt for small game..thus the safety notch is only used when i am shooting at the range for score..or when i am in the field hunting and a full cyl is in the gun
Hey Blackie. Thanks again for all your great videos. I mentioned in an earlier comment that I finally pulled the trigger
( haha...pun intended ) on buying my Pietta 1858 New Army black powder revolver. I am very happy with the look and
feel of my new revolver. The action seems very smooth out of the box. There was some tool marks and sharp places on
the inside places of the brass. I used a worn down foam woman's nail emery buffing stick to polish out the high spots.
I found after slicking up the inside of the brass frame removing and re installing the cylinder was a lot smoother.
I have not had a chance to go to the Autozone to buy 3 or 4 thousand grit sand paper yet.
What do you think of using metal polish like Flitz or Brasso to polish trigger and hammer parts that contact
other parts?
I have Atrial Fibrilation of the heart and severe osteoarthritis in both knees so I am waiting for a good day to go to the range
to shoot. I do plan on doing your full tune up but I wanted to try a shooting session stock out of the box first.
I spend a lot of time in my recliner. When I have a new gun I do like to practice dry firing to get the muscle memory worked into
my brains neural pathways well. I know i can't dry fire on bare nipples ( hehe ). I wanted to ask you if you think it is ok to dry fire the 1858
with the cylinder removed?
Thanks again for your videos sir. I live on SSI low fixed income so I always do a lot of research before i start saving up for any major purchase.
Your videos helped me make my decision to spend a bit more and go for the Pietta 1858.
Bill D.
Bill, I rolled up a piece of leather and glued the edge so it wouldn't come apart. I place the leather roll between the hammer and frame and I can dry-fire all day and not hurt the frame, hammer, or nipples. You could also use a piece of cloth, but be sure to roll it tight.
Hi Blackie. I managed to screw-up my original hammer by over-filing the face to solve a nipple peening problem and had to buy a replacement. The new hammer cam is different in angle to my original and the bolt wouldn't release to lock up my cylinder upon full cock. I carefully filed the cam to match the original as closely as possible and it worked. The weird thing is, it used to have 3 clicks but now seems to only have 2. It locks-up perfectly on very slow and moderate speed cocks but will over-travel when cocked very fast.I don't see a circumstance where I would cock it that fast but it bugs me that it isn't 100%. Should I leave well enough alone or is there a simple remedy for the 2-click over-travel issue? Thanks.
you can leave alone or check to see if cyl bolt is being lazy in locking up a bur in the channel where it comes up to clock cyl will slow it a bit..a new trigger/bolt spring..amy help the fast cock lock up
I just got a new Uberti 1858, the hand on half cock is out and hard to rotate the cylinder it's so strong making getting the cylinder a pain to get back in. Is there anything I need or can do to make the cylinder easier to install?
Pm me
@@chadwilson7577 got it now, smooth as butrer
You need Positive surfaces on your sears.
Hi Blackie
I posted a couple of Questions to this a couple of weeks ago about the hand spring coming out and lubrication of the innards.
I know that you have been busy ,when you get a second I would appreciate it if you would help me with the questions.
Thank you much
sorry its the busy time of yrs for me..if you would send me questions on my facebook page..its blackie thomas..and i will be happy to help you one to one if i can
@@BLACKIETHOMAS
Thanks Blackie
Will do
I have a similar problem as ThePants has. My 20 year-old Pietta Remmie works just fine with the original cylinder in it but the 20 year old replacement cylinder has cocking issues. Four chambers will lock up on full cock (but barely) and the other 2 only click 2 times with no final 3rd click of the hammer. The cylinder bolt is always completely locked-up with all 6 though. Is there a problem with the depth of the ratchet on the back of the cylinder? Is this something that can be fixed? Thanks.
Jeff Lang I'd say just use the original cylinder, each new cylinder has to be fitted to work properly.
Thanks. I assumed that they were "ready-to-use" since they were sold as an accessory, not as an extra part.
my brand new 1858 sheriff has a lot of burrs in the area of the base pin and loading lever, i`ve already polished where the loading lever inserts, need more job but i`m getting there. my problem is the base pin, after sticking it in and out some times it came with some very litle shavings, and i wanted to polish it . any ideas how to remove it?
the only way is to remove the loading lever latch..i have not done that myself..i think its a pressed in part..and if removed would have to be somehow epoxyed /glued back in and that a headed ache i want to avoid..wish i could be a better help but that is one of the negative points on such a great and handy revolver
I only use black powder revolver pistol....just think if the shyt hits the fan...this is the weapons you will need . The Zombie apocalypse