Blackie, this is a note of thanks...i utilized your suggestions from this video to upgrade several Uberti revolvers...in a word this worked marvelously...not only did the Wolffe spring fix the broken spring problem, it greatly improved the action feel of my revolvers...i also had to make use of your fix, i.e., to straighten out the "crook" of the spring leg if it is to short...worked like a champ!...the revolvers involved, Uberti 1873 BP C&P, Uberti 1858 Remington sheriff...it is a great relief to know that my trigger/bolt spring will not fail at some inconvenient moment...you are the man!...thanks loads!...may you ride, shoot-straight & speak the truth always...i owe you one dude...jo'c
Thanks Blackie! Just got my first Colt Navy clone yesterday....the Pietta 1851 Navy Sheriff 8n .44. I have a ROA also in .44 and like it a lot, but this Sherriff is amazing. Thanks for teaching me how to shoot, load, and maintain them both! Love your channel !
My sear bolt spring just broke on my 1851 Pietta Navy. Remembering this video, I placed an order for this reduced power wire type and reduced power mainspring upgrade. These should be the perfect addition 👍🏼, Thank you!
I just installed one on my Uberti 1851 Navy today. It had the same problem. Even though it was for a Uberti it was still a little short on the trigger side of the spring. I did exactly what you did and it worked perfectly. The trigger side that I lengthened a little sits a bit diagonally on the trigger shelf instead of perfectly straight but it functions fine. There is a noticeable change in the trigger pull as well. Definitely lighter but I wouldn't call it dangerously light. No creep at all now. Thanks for the video Blackie. I have been wanting to try a wire spring for sometime but I wasn't confidant that I could make it work if it didn't fit out of the box.
Another informative video. I really enjoy the percussion revolver series. Since starting to watch these videos,I have acquired a 1851 Navy and a 1858 Remington both Piettas. Thanks and keep the videos coming.
Hey Blackie, you ol' "highfalutin' chicken plucker" you! Great video on one of the two most "delicate" parts of a Colt revolver - the locking bolt/trigger spring (as you just showed), & the cylinder rotating hand & spring ("pawl")! Wonderful instructions!! You're my "guru/go to guy" for cap & ball revolvers!!! Got a brass framed .36 Navy Arms revolver (bought in 1968 in downtown Chicago!) that should have these springs replaced & keep the originals for spares. This gun has "zero play" cylinder lockup that I'd put up against ANY S&W revolver - absolutely NO play on lockup, not even one thousandth of an inch! Also, those birds I hear in your video background are such a wonderful joy to my ol' "pea pickin' heart"!!! At 81, they make my heart "sing for joy" to God! The more "boids" the better! Thank you for bringing much pleasure into my life with your great instructional videos! LOVE YA LOTS - "Mr. Thickey hisself!!! "Gesundheit"!!!!!
Blackie you are the Master! Knowledge Experience and the ability to explain it, if this was a song it would be the one from James Bond NOBODY DOES IT BETTER. Thank You Blackie
I bought myself a 1974 pietta made euroarms navy sheriff model with a brass frame that was in some amount of disrepair. I opened it up and found one of those piano wire springs and the part of the spring the works the bolt had broken. I imagine someone was fanning the hammer or something to make it happen like that
I needed this 9-09-18 so friggin bad!!!! Every video I ran into everybody trying to hold trigger frame to main frame WITH the HAMMER SPRING COMPRESSED..I finally got it going and shot my own video to post....
the spring in my 1860 army broke just like that and I realized that half the spring was still good so I made the other half from a spring clip. and stacked them. It worked perfectly.
MidwayUSA sells a Wolff 3 spring set for $22.99 that is made for the SAA. One spring is the music wire spring you mentioned, another one is a reduced power mainspring, and third one is a reduced power ejector rod spring that you do not need on a cap & ball revolver. But you obviously can find whatever you need at MidwayUSA, Brownells, or any other gun parts dealer without having to go directly to the manufacturer.
that spring and a lighter mains pring will really improve the trigger pull and cocking force. That is the way my 1860 Army is set up and it is a pleasure to shoot.
I have repaired a broken had spring at home, there is a video of it on CZcams not by me, I searched for colt navy hand spring repair and found it a while back, I will look for it and if I find it I will post the link for you. But here is how it is done. I bought an assortment of gun spring stock/piano wire. I used either .018, .020 if I remember correctly. I filed down the nub left over from the old spring. Then, very carefully, I took a very small drill bit, 1/16 inch, and drilled from the back of the hand, at the old springs location, through to the front. Being very careful not to run the hole to either side and thus ruining the hand. Then I placed the piano wire through the hole from the back of the hand, and bent a small L in the end of the wire on the front side of the hand, to stop the wire from escaping. Next I looped the wire around the bottom of the hand and back through the hole from the front of the hand, pulling it tight, forming a tight loop against the bottom of the hand. I bent the long tail appropriately and trimmed the excess, making sure the end of the new hand spring was bent forward, so it can ride easily and smoothly inside the hand slot on the curve of the wire, instead of the tip. It is very very tedious, and unless your hand spring breaks, I do not recommend doing this. As there is a very real chance of simply drilling the hole incorrectly. It can be off a little bit, but not so much that is punches through either side of the hand. Use of lighter wire or heavier wire will change how easily the cylinder will free spin in the half cock position. Making an action that is very slick, but getting this procedure right is difficult without a drill press, however I managed it with a hand drill while exercising extreme caution. Thank you for all of your wisdom in practical use of cap and ball revolvers. I truly cherish all I have learned from you about these wonderful and underated sidearms. My colt navy is never far from my side thanks to you.
Excellent video. I've had Colt percussion revolvers and I ended up getting rid of them and buying Remington .44's. Much easier to strip down. I have 3 Pietta Remington's and one Uberti. The Uberti was the first revolver I bought back in the early 1970's. It was a used beautiful revolver, bone grips, and the frame had been antiqued and the front sight was brazed higher. It shot like a dream. Unfortunately the previous owner had filed the hammer down so that it was a hair trigger. Through the years of shooting it, the hammer finally was wore down so that the trigger would not catch ( half cock works fine). I ordered a new Uberti hammer and discovered that back in the early 70's the guns were metric and the modern parts won't work. (At least that is what I have been told.) Not sure if a gunsmith could machine the new hammer to work. So my Uberti is a wall hanger.
Take the hammer to a local small machine shop and have them Tig weld more steel where it's worn and file it yourself until the trigger is how you like it. Much cheaper than a gunsmith making you a one off and more fun.
I installed this spring in a Uberti 1860 Army and worked great. Sadly however that spring would not fit in my Uberti 1847 Walker because it was about 1/8-inch too short. I actually phoned Wolf hoping to get proper spring but I was informed they don’t make trigger spring for a Walker. If anyone is aware of lighter aftermarket trigger spring - please let me know!
Shipping Varies by state mine was $4.25 for Lowest rate....Just ordered one for my Uberti 1858 SS Cal. .44 8" barrel, #32294 QTY.1 COLT SA REVLVR RP WIRE SEAR-BOLT SPRNG Pak of 1 Tax $0.64 Part $6.49 Total $11.38 BLACKIE THOMAS -Thanks for the info.....
first ...i like the show game of thrones..and one of the characters has the title of stormborne..as to the gun..the day it was dropped at my door was a huge storm..and the wind blew if off the porch and into the bushes..when i found it several hours later the box was coming apart but the inner pkg was fine..my wife said when i went to pick it up that the outer box sort of birthed it..lol.. when i took it to shoot a few days later a huge storm was blowing in and i had to shoot quick..i got off a few shots then rain got to me..it all came together in my head that this gun was stormborne...so the name stuck..all good guns earn a name..safe journeys
Blackie im having trouble getting my barrel of my 1851 navy can u help me figure out the problem thxs for the great videos my pistol is twenty years old thxs
Hey Blackie! Great videos! Big fan of your percussion revolver series I replaced my trigger/ bolt spring and now my hammer slips the half cock/ loading position. The only way I can seem to remedy this is by loosening the tension on the trigger/ bolt spring screw but by doing this it creates a problem with a loose lockup of the cylinder and bolt stop. So I cannot do that for fear of cylinder timing. What is my problem and how do I fix it???? Please advise
sounds like the spring you are now using is bent a little wrong and is causing the trigger to shift too far forward so the sear is not going into the proper half cock notch on hammer try this take a reg paper clip cut it kinda like a fish hook.. let the long shank be a touch longer that the trigger leg of your present spring place this hook under the spring and tighten spring screw this may push the trigger sear back a tiny bit to help with lock up be sure to look close at the hammer notches be sure no burrs or broken edges.. also look a t top of trigger at the sear it should be even if broken you may need a trigger as well hope this helps point you in the right direction safe journeys
@@BLACKIETHOMAS thank you sir I will look into that for sure I really love this gun and want to get it working. It's a great gun I get nice tight groups at 10 yards using 25g of fff pyrodex. I would like to know what you think of the Triple 7 powder and is it necessary to reduce the charge? I have heard this and yet there doesn't seem to be much info for that. So if I use 25g Pyrodex P What would be the equivalent charge in Triple 7? Thanks again
I like the idea of a lighter trigger pull with this but will it work with a kiss drop in conversion cylinder with the loading gate so that you can fire cartridges instead of just loading it with black powder like during the civil war
Blackie, you recommend that spring only for replacement? What about he mainspring? I'm not sure I'm clear as you mentioned another spring not to mess with but to clean up the channel. I remember reading about some folks having problems after they replaced the mainspring, mainly with the hammer fall being too light. If you think we should leave that alone then maybe we shouldn't mess with it. Just need some direction here.
your correct..most replacement main spring i have found are less powerful than the factory one..and light hammer hits cause ignition probs..lack of seal when the chamber fires and back pressure forces the hammer back letting fouling into the hammer recess..ect..the wire trigger spring is what i will usually do when a factory one breaks i upgrade..
I have a Pietta 1860 Army colt as well, so would I be set with getting a Wolff spring with the same specifications, (wire type etc) except it be an EMF?
Didn't know that you could replace a flat spring with a round one. Learned something new. I've thinned the trigger spring (the flat one) and got it a little too thin and now the 1860 Army has a hair trigger. I'm thinking of replacing that old flat spring with a Wolf piano spring. I've also got a problem of bolt drag marks on the cylinder. What causes that?
drag marks can be from cyl stop dropping too soon..also if spring is too strong it will push it up too tight..try not tightning the trigger bolt spring to fully down see if it functions well and bolt is not dragging if not replace bolt( cyl stop)
Do you know if the screws for Uberti, EMF, CVA, Pietta, etc are metric or American Standard? If so what are the dimentions. OD, thread pitch, length, all that good stuff. If you don't know, a site you might recommend for this such info. Thanks
i know most if not all are metric..since they are manufactured in italy..i would ask dixie gun works they usually have a reall good idea of what each gun uses and by who made it
I have a Pietta 1851 in .44 I would like to have a spring kit for it just in case the stock springs are like you say, cheap. So I would need the one that Said Emf type?
I've noticed that my hand is getting pretty ugly wear on it, right where it contacts the notches that rotate the cylinder.(edit: notches too) I guess they're a soft steel. Do you have any recommendations?
i think you have guessed right..soft steel will wear fairly quickly..i would go ahead and order the new hand so you can compare it with the one you have now in case it needs much fitting..as to the cyl that's gonna need a new one when it gets too far out of time..safe journeys
One thing that bugs me, is that you say they had better steel back in the day. They did not. In fact modern steels are superior to those back in the day in every way. What is true however, is that these gunmakers nowadays might choose to use cheaper methods to produce their springs, like sheet metal stamping. Can't really say that the problem is modern times when it is in fact the gun manufacturers fault you use.
if it is not catching then the sear may be broken on the top of trigger or the sear notch may have sheered off from hammer face,,break gun down and look close that the two places..sounds like the hammer part is the problem..someone may have stoned too much off and the trigger cant hold
Thanks,I will give what you said a try and see what happens. It also goes into a weird half cock if that means anything at all. Thanks again, I really appreciate the your response, great channel.
I like the detail you provide in your videos, you don’t have to apologize for the length. Keep up the great work!
Yes me too. Without the details my pistol was ruined lol
Blackie, this is a note of thanks...i utilized your suggestions from this video to upgrade several Uberti revolvers...in a word this worked marvelously...not only did the Wolffe spring fix the broken spring problem, it greatly improved the action feel of my revolvers...i also had to make use of your fix, i.e., to straighten out the "crook" of the spring leg if it is to short...worked like a champ!...the revolvers involved, Uberti 1873 BP C&P, Uberti 1858 Remington sheriff...it is a great relief to know that my trigger/bolt spring will not fail at some inconvenient moment...you are the man!...thanks loads!...may you ride, shoot-straight & speak the truth always...i owe you one dude...jo'c
Thanks Blackie! Just got my first Colt Navy clone yesterday....the Pietta 1851 Navy Sheriff 8n .44. I have a ROA also in .44 and like it a lot, but this Sherriff is amazing. Thanks for teaching me how to shoot, load, and maintain them both! Love your channel !
As a new bp revolver shooter I really appreciate these instructional videos Thanks Blackie
Thanks Blackie, just ordered a few of these.
My sear bolt spring just broke on my 1851 Pietta Navy. Remembering this video, I placed an order for this reduced power wire type and reduced power mainspring upgrade. These should be the perfect addition 👍🏼, Thank you!
Pretty easy to bend up the whole spring from piano wire, and you can get a yard of almost any size from a model airplane shop....
Exactly. Make your own !!!
I just installed one on my Uberti 1851 Navy today. It had the same problem. Even though it was for a Uberti it was still a little short on the trigger side of the spring. I did exactly what you did and it worked perfectly. The trigger side that I lengthened a little sits a bit diagonally on the trigger shelf instead of perfectly straight but it functions fine. There is a noticeable change in the trigger pull as well. Definitely lighter but I wouldn't call it dangerously light. No creep at all now.
Thanks for the video Blackie. I have been wanting to try a wire spring for sometime but I wasn't confidant that I could make it work if it didn't fit out of the box.
its one of the best out of the box upgrades i know of..safe journeys
Great to learn before the break brake!
Another informative video. I really enjoy the percussion revolver series. Since starting to watch these videos,I have acquired a 1851 Navy and a 1858 Remington both Piettas. Thanks and keep the videos coming.
Hey Blackie, you ol' "highfalutin' chicken plucker" you! Great video on one of the two most "delicate" parts of a Colt revolver - the locking bolt/trigger spring (as you just showed), & the cylinder rotating hand & spring ("pawl")! Wonderful instructions!! You're my "guru/go to guy" for cap & ball revolvers!!! Got a brass framed .36 Navy Arms revolver (bought in 1968 in downtown Chicago!) that should have these springs replaced & keep the originals for spares. This gun has "zero play" cylinder lockup that I'd put up against ANY S&W revolver - absolutely NO play on lockup, not even one thousandth of an inch! Also, those birds I hear in your video background are such a wonderful joy to my ol' "pea pickin' heart"!!! At 81, they make my heart "sing for joy" to God! The more "boids" the better! Thank you for bringing much pleasure into my life with your great instructional videos! LOVE YA LOTS - "Mr. Thickey hisself!!! "Gesundheit"!!!!!
You're doing the Lord's work... Broke my spring in the same place on my 1851 putting it back together after antiquing it.
glad to help
Blackie you are the Master! Knowledge Experience and the ability to explain it, if this was a song it would be the one from James Bond NOBODY DOES IT BETTER. Thank You Blackie
lol well thank you sir..safe journeys
I bought myself a 1974 pietta made euroarms navy sheriff model with a brass frame that was in some amount of disrepair. I opened it up and found one of those piano wire springs and the part of the spring the works the bolt had broken. I imagine someone was fanning the hammer or something to make it happen like that
I needed this 9-09-18 so friggin bad!!!! Every video I ran into everybody trying to hold trigger frame to main frame WITH the HAMMER SPRING COMPRESSED..I finally got it going and shot my own video to post....
the spring in my 1860 army broke just like that and I realized that half the spring was still good so I made the other half from a spring clip. and stacked them. It worked perfectly.
Perfect video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
You would make a great school teacher! Thanks...
Taylors is another source for lots of Italian percussion revolver parts.
i just for some new nipples from them for the 1851 good stuff
Thanks for the video! Love the percussion revolver series!!
MidwayUSA sells a Wolff 3 spring set for $22.99 that is made for the SAA. One spring is the music wire spring you mentioned, another one is a reduced power mainspring, and third one is a reduced power ejector rod spring that you do not need on a cap & ball revolver. But you obviously can find whatever you need at MidwayUSA, Brownells, or any other gun parts dealer without having to go directly to the manufacturer.
I'm definitely gonna order one for my 1860. Thanks and keep 'em coming.
Thanks again Blackie. Always informative.
Great vid man. Thanks brother.
There is a piano wire spring repair for the hand spring.
that spring and a lighter mains pring will really improve the trigger pull and cocking force. That is the way my 1860 Army is set up and it is a pleasure to shoot.
I have repaired a broken had spring at home, there is a video of it on CZcams not by me, I searched for colt navy hand spring repair and found it a while back, I will look for it and if I find it I will post the link for you. But here is how it is done. I bought an assortment of gun spring stock/piano wire. I used either .018, .020 if I remember correctly. I filed down the nub left over from the old spring. Then, very carefully, I took a very small drill bit, 1/16 inch, and drilled from the back of the hand, at the old springs location, through to the front. Being very careful not to run the hole to either side and thus ruining the hand. Then I placed the piano wire through the hole from the back of the hand, and bent a small L in the end of the wire on the front side of the hand, to stop the wire from escaping. Next I looped the wire around the bottom of the hand and back through the hole from the front of the hand, pulling it tight, forming a tight loop against the bottom of the hand. I bent the long tail appropriately and trimmed the excess, making sure the end of the new hand spring was bent forward, so it can ride easily and smoothly inside the hand slot on the curve of the wire, instead of the tip. It is very very tedious, and unless your hand spring breaks, I do not recommend doing this. As there is a very real chance of simply drilling the hole incorrectly. It can be off a little bit, but not so much that is punches through either side of the hand. Use of lighter wire or heavier wire will change how easily the cylinder will free spin in the half cock position. Making an action that is very slick, but getting this procedure right is difficult without a drill press, however I managed it with a hand drill while exercising extreme caution. Thank you for all of your wisdom in practical use of cap and ball revolvers. I truly cherish all I have learned from you about these wonderful and underated sidearms. My colt navy is never far from my side thanks to you.
Found the video for hand spring repair, czcams.com/video/tp1nbPw5Z4Q/video.html
Thanks for all the great info. I'm ordering mine now
I just ordered one for my Colt 2nd gen. Great video
Thanks very much Blackie. I'm having to self educate on single actions, as I dont have any Smith's that'll work on em for me anymore locally.
feel free to ask questions i will give you what help i can..safe journeys
Thanks Blackie. I may just do this mod. too my '58 Rem. and '51 Confederate Navy.
Thank god for the fast forward option....holy hell....
Rude
Excellent video. I've had Colt percussion revolvers and I ended up getting rid of them and buying Remington .44's. Much easier to strip down. I have 3 Pietta Remington's and one Uberti. The Uberti was the first revolver I bought back in the early 1970's. It was a used beautiful revolver, bone grips, and the frame had been antiqued and the front sight was brazed higher. It shot like a dream. Unfortunately the previous owner had filed the hammer down so that it was a hair trigger. Through the years of shooting it, the hammer finally was wore down so that the trigger would not catch ( half cock works fine). I ordered a new Uberti hammer and discovered that back in the early 70's the guns were metric and the modern parts won't work. (At least that is what I have been told.) Not sure if a gunsmith could machine the new hammer to work. So my Uberti is a wall hanger.
Take the hammer to a local small machine shop and have them Tig weld more steel where it's worn and file it yourself until the trigger is how you like it. Much cheaper than a gunsmith making you a one off and more fun.
great vidio sir
I installed this spring in a Uberti 1860 Army and worked great. Sadly however that spring would not fit in my Uberti 1847 Walker because it was about 1/8-inch too short.
I actually phoned Wolf hoping to get proper spring but I was informed they don’t make trigger spring for a Walker. If anyone is aware of lighter aftermarket trigger spring - please let me know!
Thank
That grip screw is actually the backstrap screw, the backstrap is that silver piece of metal in berween the handles.
Mine is broke too. I just checked
interesting though I'm not into the old hand guns I found this informitive
Shipping Varies by state mine was $4.25 for Lowest rate....Just ordered one for my Uberti 1858 SS Cal. .44 8" barrel,
#32294 QTY.1 COLT SA REVLVR RP WIRE SEAR-BOLT SPRNG Pak of 1 Tax $0.64 Part $6.49 Total $11.38
BLACKIE THOMAS -Thanks for the info.....
Excellent video as always; I personally enjoy your longer ones. Any tips and tricks, mods or upgrades for the 1858?
i plan on more with the roa 58 in the near future
Blackie i gotta know... how did your revolver come to be known as Stormborn?
first ...i like the show game of thrones..and one of the characters has the title of stormborne..as to the gun..the day it was dropped at my door was a huge storm..and the wind blew if off the porch and into the bushes..when i found it several hours later the box was coming apart but the inner pkg was fine..my wife said when i went to pick it up that the outer box sort of birthed it..lol.. when i took it to shoot a few days later a huge storm was blowing in and i had to shoot quick..i got off a few shots then rain got to me..it all came together in my head that this gun was stormborne...so the name stuck..all good guns earn a name..safe journeys
Blackie im having trouble getting my barrel of my 1851 navy can u help me figure out the problem thxs for the great videos my pistol is twenty years old thxs
Thank you! I wonder what is that songbird singing in the background, f.ex. 6:00-7:00?
I might have bought two springs to save on shipping and have a spare.
Hey Blackie, are you a self taught gun smith, or just needing to learn because of necessity ? 🤗🇺🇸❤️
What make and model is the folding knife
Is this possible with the Remmington clones?
i think wolff does have a spring for it as well
Curious is this possible on a 1858 Remington
Hey Blackie! Great videos!
Big fan of your percussion revolver series
I replaced my trigger/ bolt spring and now my hammer slips the half cock/ loading position. The only way I can seem to remedy this is by loosening the tension on the trigger/ bolt spring screw but by doing this it creates a problem with a loose lockup of the cylinder and bolt stop. So I cannot do that for fear of cylinder timing.
What is my problem and how do I fix it????
Please advise
sounds like the spring you are now using is bent a little wrong and is causing the trigger to shift too far forward so the sear is not going into the proper half cock notch on hammer try this take a reg paper clip cut it kinda like a fish hook.. let the long shank be a touch longer that the trigger leg of your present spring place this hook under the spring and tighten spring screw this may push the trigger sear back a tiny bit to help with lock up be sure to look close at the hammer notches be sure no burrs or broken edges.. also look a t top of trigger at the sear it should be even if broken you may need a trigger as well hope this helps point you in the right direction safe journeys
@@BLACKIETHOMAS thank you sir
I will look into that for sure
I really love this gun and want to get it working. It's a great gun I get nice tight groups at 10 yards using 25g of fff pyrodex.
I would like to know what you think of the Triple 7 powder and is it necessary to reduce the charge?
I have heard this and yet there doesn't seem to be much info for that.
So if I use 25g Pyrodex P
What would be the equivalent charge in Triple 7?
Thanks again
Will this work in an 1858 Remington
If this isn't a true example of "the more you know", nothing is.
See it’s problems like this that makes me want to stay away from foreign replicas. I love my Ruger old army.🤗🇺🇸❤️
Question: why do you prefer the 1851 Navy v 1860 Army Colt? Just curious.
I like the idea of a lighter trigger pull with this but will it work with a kiss drop in conversion cylinder with the loading gate so that you can fire cartridges instead of just loading it with black powder like during the civil war
yep you can get those
not long, just good info.
Is there a '61 navy in .44?
Blackie, you recommend that spring only for replacement? What about he mainspring? I'm not sure I'm clear as you mentioned another spring not to mess with but to clean up the channel. I remember reading about some folks having problems after they replaced the mainspring, mainly with the hammer fall being too light. If you think we should leave that alone then maybe we shouldn't mess with it. Just need some direction here.
your correct..most replacement main spring i have found are less powerful than the factory one..and light hammer hits cause ignition probs..lack of seal when the chamber fires and back pressure forces the hammer back letting fouling into the hammer recess..ect..the wire trigger spring is what i will usually do when a factory one breaks i upgrade..
I have a Pietta 1860 Army colt as well, so would I be set with getting a Wolff spring with the same specifications, (wire type etc) except it be an EMF?
Didn't know that you could replace a flat spring with a round one. Learned something new. I've thinned the trigger spring (the flat one) and got it a little too thin and now the 1860 Army has a hair trigger. I'm thinking of replacing that old flat spring with a Wolf piano spring. I've also got a problem of bolt drag marks on the cylinder. What causes that?
drag marks can be from cyl stop dropping too soon..also if spring is too strong it will push it up too tight..try not tightning the trigger bolt spring to fully down see if it functions well and bolt is not dragging
if not replace bolt( cyl stop)
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Thanks. I'll give it a try.
Do you know if the screws for Uberti, EMF, CVA, Pietta, etc are metric or American Standard? If so what are the dimentions. OD, thread pitch, length, all that good stuff. If you don't know, a site you might recommend for this such info. Thanks
i know most if not all are metric..since they are manufactured in italy..i would ask dixie gun works they usually have a reall good idea of what each gun uses and by who made it
I have a Pietta 1851 in .44 I would like to have a spring kit for it just in case the stock springs are like you say, cheap. So I would need the one that Said Emf type?
when i ordered mine it said emf ( but they import a lot of pietta's )
"3 2 2 9 4 seer bolt spring reduced power wire type for use in Colt single action revolver Uberti regulator not for EMF revolvers"
sounds about right
I've noticed that my hand is getting pretty ugly wear on it, right where it contacts the notches that rotate the cylinder.(edit: notches too) I guess they're a soft steel. Do you have any recommendations?
i think you have guessed right..soft steel will wear fairly quickly..i would go ahead and order the new hand so you can compare it with the one you have now in case it needs much fitting..as to the cyl that's gonna need a new one when it gets too far out of time..safe journeys
To me, ten bucks sounds like quite a lot for a piece of wire. I'd probably try'n make my own with a piece of welding wire.
Over 10 bucks for spring that is not even spring steel.... What's the world coming to?!
One thing that bugs me, is that you say they had better steel back in the day. They did not. In fact modern steels are superior to those back in the day in every way. What is true however, is that these gunmakers nowadays might choose to use cheaper methods to produce their springs, like sheet metal stamping.
Can't really say that the problem is modern times when it is in fact the gun manufacturers fault you use.
I have a 1858 and it won't catch when I cock it to full cock. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
if it is not catching then the sear may be broken on the top of trigger or the sear notch may have sheered off from hammer face,,break gun down and look close that the two places..sounds like the hammer part is the problem..someone may have stoned too much off and the trigger cant hold
Thanks,I will give what you said a try and see what happens. It also goes into a weird half cock if that means anything at all. Thanks again, I really appreciate the your response, great channel.
Parle en français