Great video, I’ve been cleaning my cap & ball revolvers this way for decades. I only do one thing different. I spray 90% rubbing alcohol into the action after blowing out the water. The alcohol should dissipate any water that the air might have missed. It might be pointless, but gives me peace of mind. Thanks for the pointer on turning the screws backwards. I’ve never stripped one, but have never thought of doing that.
This is a good idea. I have been taking them completely down and wiping every bit with canola oil, of all things. Seems to work well as a crud remover and basic protectant
Fascinating. I was *extremely* skeptical until I saw you use the air compressor--I couldn't imagine how you were going to get the moisture out of all the "nooks and crannies." I really wish I had access to one of those.
Ballistol can be emulsionated with water, so when the latter evaporates the former will still be protecting those nooks and crannies without rust. Moose's milk is my Colt's best friend.
@@Schlachtschule Of course! First I tried pouring it in an old sunscreen spray bottle I had laying around, after a thorough hot wash, but the spray button (actuator?) was so damn hard it got stuck every two squirts and I had to use pliers or a vise to get it out. Now I went for a fancy solution: a Floyd aftershave glass bottle, with an orange vaporizer, manual pump and such. 😂
As he said elsewhere, hot air increases oxidation, and he has rusted metal quickly by doing so. Of course that may not happen to everyone. Just doesn’t seem necessary.
Have you considered adding a heat gun or hair dryer to your routine AFTER you use the compressed air? When I clean the locks on my Flintlock Rifles , I clean with soap , water and an old toothbrush and then dry the lock well with a hair dryer.
I would not try it, myself. At one time I made and sold "chainmail" armour. I used to clean it and then hang it up on a pole and blow dry it with a leaf blower. Worked great. One time I had the idea to put it in the oven and bake it dry. It came out bright orange, coated with rust. As with most chemical reactions, heat accelerates oxidation.
Great video, I’ve been cleaning my cap & ball revolvers this way for decades. I only do one thing different. I spray 90% rubbing alcohol into the action after blowing out the water. The alcohol should dissipate any water that the air might have missed. It might be pointless, but gives me peace of mind. Thanks for the pointer on turning the screws backwards. I’ve never stripped one, but have never thought of doing that.
This is a good idea. I have been taking them completely down and wiping every bit with canola oil, of all things. Seems to work well as a crud remover and basic protectant
You can also clean them in the bathroom sink ( If Phyllis is not home)
I detail clean once a year or so but I clean very similarly to this. Always remove and oil the threads on the cones.
Fascinating. I was *extremely* skeptical until I saw you use the air compressor--I couldn't imagine how you were going to get the moisture out of all the "nooks and crannies." I really wish I had access to one of those.
Aerosol ballistol sprayed into the innards works well to prevent rust after hosing them out with water
Ballistol can be emulsionated with water, so when the latter evaporates the former will still be protecting those nooks and crannies without rust. Moose's milk is my Colt's best friend.
@@Bjornvetr I think Moose Milk is pretty universal at this point, and, if not, it should be.
@@Schlachtschule Of course! First I tried pouring it in an old sunscreen spray bottle I had laying around, after a thorough hot wash, but the spray button (actuator?) was so damn hard it got stuck every two squirts and I had to use pliers or a vise to get it out.
Now I went for a fancy solution: a Floyd aftershave glass bottle, with an orange vaporizer, manual pump and such. 😂
I used WD-40 to displace any moisture after cleaning.
I like to use a hair dryer, good hot air.
As he said elsewhere, hot air increases oxidation, and he has rusted metal quickly by doing so. Of course that may not happen to everyone. Just doesn’t seem necessary.
@@profile2047 Get them dry and grease them up. CLP with Break Free slick slick.
Oh yeah get all that rust activated😂
As long as you thoroughly dry everything and follow up with a quality oil, rust is not an issue. I have no problems with rust on my guns.
@@musketmatters2004 I've never used water. Hops solvent only. High as well never had any rust issues.
Why remove the trigger guard
Have you considered adding a heat gun or hair dryer to your routine AFTER you use the compressed air?
When I clean the locks on my Flintlock Rifles , I clean with soap , water and an old toothbrush and then dry the lock well with a hair dryer.
I would not try it, myself. At one time I made and sold "chainmail" armour. I used to clean it and then hang it up on a pole and blow dry it with a leaf blower. Worked great. One time I had the idea to put it in the oven and bake it dry. It came out bright orange, coated with rust. As with most chemical reactions, heat accelerates oxidation.