Will it run? 2004 Honda Rebel 250 (CMX250C) Carb Cleaning | The Fixit Shed

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  • čas přidán 17. 01. 2023
  • In my 04 Rebel intro video, I was able to get the bike to rumble to life, briefly, on starting fluid. I decided to clean the carburetor and put in frsh gas. this video covers: removing the carburetor, disassembling it, cleaning it, reassembling it , and reinstalling it back on the bike.
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Komentáře • 48

  • @DrJoe-ky5dl
    @DrJoe-ky5dl Před 6 měsíci +4

    Thanks so much for this video! I’m working on a Rebel that hasn’t run in four years and I followed your instructions and it fired right up. Thank you!

  • @kadenlopez5674
    @kadenlopez5674 Před rokem +2

    This is an amazing video and exactly what I needed, great how to’s for all types of rebel projects, dont stop making these!!!

  • @NinjaCrazy87
    @NinjaCrazy87 Před rokem

    Love these videos man! I am currently trying to work on mine since I let it set and now it won’t run. These videos are so useful thank you so much my friend!

  • @mauricetakett5688
    @mauricetakett5688 Před rokem

    Thanks for the video!!

  • @drdoc7508
    @drdoc7508 Před rokem

    Great instructional vids

  • @Rondoe21
    @Rondoe21 Před 29 dny

    Just bought a rebel today and I’m hoping this will get it started. It’s been sitting for a few weeks but it ran perfectly just before that

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před 29 dny

      I hope it works for you, but if it was running perfectly, sitting for a few weeks shouldn't require a carb clean to get it running again.

  • @philipbird6862
    @philipbird6862 Před rokem

    Great Video have a question, is there a rubber washer on the drain plug, and I also had a left over washer I could not figure out where it went. It's the one at the top of the shop rag in the video as you get ready to reinstall. I re watched the video a few times and figured out there are two washers on the accelerator rod.

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před rokem

      Yes, there is an o-ring on the drain screw. And yes, this bike had a second washer on the accelerator linkage. Sounds like yours may have as well. My 02 Rebel only had one and the Parts diagrams I checked only had one, so I did not reinstall it. I figured it was a mistake.

    • @philipbird6862
      @philipbird6862 Před rokem

      @@TheFixitShed Thank you for the help

  • @quailquillz
    @quailquillz Před rokem

    Love the flames! 🔥Is that paint or a decal?

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před rokem

      Paint, but the outline of the flames might be pinstriping tape.

  • @baonhithach
    @baonhithach Před měsícem

    Omg ,I like the shift level like that ,because in Asian countries we used that much,how could you have that sir ?

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před měsícem +1

      It looks like it was homemade, but well done. Here is a short video I made about it. czcams.com/users/shortsahchP9_ZSqc?si=olCcQ78GyPlKucVR

  • @TheZero2414
    @TheZero2414 Před 20 dny

    The Fixit Shed. AT the timestamp 30:39 there is an extra washer. I had a washer fall out when I was taking mine apart. Everything looks ok, BUT I have an extra washer. It looks like at 30:39 you also have an extra washer. Where did that go?

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před 20 dny

      It came off of the idle adjuster. There were 2 washers for some reason. It is only supposed to have one. So I left it off.

  • @fourstringgirl
    @fourstringgirl Před měsícem

    Trying to get the bracket off just before carb removal step. Both bolts are blocked by blob of wires and a fuse box. Mine is newer, 2012, so am I looking at taking out the battery and removing the box that holds it? Thats the only way I see around this roadblock. I can't get anything onto the bolts or any leverage...

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před měsícem +1

      For thebwires that are blocking the bolts, if you follow them down, just below the bottom of the battery, there is a metal tab holding them in place. You can bend the tab out a little to release the wires. That will give you enough play to get to the bottom bolt. If the wires are blocking the top bolt, you can unbolt the positive battery cable and the whole block on the side of the battery box will slide to the right and move out of the way.

    • @fourstringgirl
      @fourstringgirl Před měsícem

      ​@@TheFixitShedyou are a life saver! Thanks so much for the insight! I will dive back into it tomorrow.

  • @lizab.tattoos112
    @lizab.tattoos112 Před rokem

    Hey how are you? I have the same year and specs rebel. Mine also has the same symptoms of not starting. I recently rebuilt the carb and let it sit in berrymans chem dip for about two days. Blew out all the holes and put the Jets back on perfect. I had to buy a new vacuum piston of eBay which is not the same as the one it came with. My bike was running for about 30 mins then shut off on me whilst I was riding. I know you said that it could have been just been bad gas. Would that show the same symptoms?

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před rokem

      Probably not. If the gas was bad, It wouldn't have run for 30 minutes. If the gas was dirty (rust in gas tank) that could run fine for a bit and then shut off once jets get clogged again. Check to see if gas in float bowl is dirty or has water in it. Pull spark plugs to make sure you are getting spark. Check the jets to see if they are clogged. The gen 1 Rebels had a different carb and the pistons were a different size. Your bike is a gen 2 and you may have bought one from the earlier years. I would try to get a correct one.

    • @lizab.tattoos112
      @lizab.tattoos112 Před rokem

      Thank you for the response I really appreciate it and will take a look at it asap !

  • @mogolo6621
    @mogolo6621 Před rokem

    pretty sure it was the gas lol that carb looked really good ( from what we could see)

  • @LongboardingCali4nia
    @LongboardingCali4nia Před 9 měsíci

    Hey I was having problems with my motorcycle from 1st to 2nd gear when I gas it my motorcycle has a slight stall in gas then feels like it burps 3 little jolts and then when it hits 2nd gear it’s fine. Any idea if I should clean out my carburetor?

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před 9 měsíci

      Definately a good place to start. If you can take it apart and soak it yourself, It is an inexpensive (although a little time consuming) thing to try. It kind of sounds like a fuel delivery problem, but not sure why it would only be occurring when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.

    • @fatjuggler8885
      @fatjuggler8885 Před měsícem

      I have this same problem not sure gonna try cleaning my carb and maybe getting a dual? If you fixed it PLEASE let me know 😁💜

  • @mariachiwalrus1688
    @mariachiwalrus1688 Před rokem

    Pretty sure your throttle spring at 29:42 is on upside down.

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před rokem

      I tend to agree with you. I have disassembled and reassembled the carb several times since then and usually install it the other way. It doesn't affect function. The spring has the same resistance either way.

    • @mariachiwalrus1688
      @mariachiwalrus1688 Před rokem

      @@TheFixitShed it started working its way through the plastic cap for me when installed it upside down. Also, I noticed if you drop the throttle from wide open to zero, sometimes the plastic cap will pop loose from the metal retainer and throw off your idle. Doesn't seem to do it with the spring oriented correctly, but it likely wouldn't do it at all even upside down as long as the wire from the spring isn't working its way through the cap.
      Regardless, your videos proved very helpful for the rebuild of my bike and I thank you for them.

  • @henryj.8528
    @henryj.8528 Před rokem +1

    I laughed at you struggling with the carb. I'm on my third Rebel 250 and getting that carb off and on is a real knuckle buster. In doing this many times, here's what I've learned:
    First, when you put the carb back on, put it barely on the intake studs. The rubber boot has wings on both sides. Grab the wings and pull the boot fully onto the carb, then tighten the clamp. (The clamp is rather flimsy and some people at this point replace it with a stainless steel worm drive clamp.) With the boot in place and the clamp tight, you can tighten the intake nuts and those will pull the carb in. However, when finished, you should check to make sure the boot is attached with no gaps, otherwise, the carb will pull air that hasn't gone through the filter.
    Second, soaking the carb is a must. None of the carb cleaners I've used work instantly. The residue you are trying to remove is sort of a plastic film from contaminates in the gas that have turned into a plastic by engine heat. It takes a while to dissolve that stuff. I use Berryman's because it's much cheaper, but I let the parts soak overnight. Soaking is the key.
    Third, since there are moving/sliding parts inside, I give it a spray of WD-40 before re-installing. Can't hurt.

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před rokem

      I didn't think it was that much of a struggle. I have had worse on other bikes. You had posted this on my other video, but I had already recorded this. I am working a couple weeks ahead. I may try your method next time. Do you completely remove the hose clamp and then wrap it around after the carb is in place? It seems like it would be in the way otherwise. Thanks for posting

    • @henryj.8528
      @henryj.8528 Před rokem +1

      @@TheFixitShed I completely remove the clamp, pull the boot on by its wings, then install the clamp. I find that easier than putting the carb on the studs and trying to get the boot on. Not anxious about removing it anytime soon... I did find the 18 year old brake fluid to be in bad shape and flushed and refilled it. All seems to be good now, and I am just waiting for decent weather (in Tennessee).

    • @henryj.8528
      @henryj.8528 Před rokem

      @@TheFixitShed The one thing I haven't done is the valve adjustment. I hope you do that at some point...

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před rokem

      @@henryj.8528 I will keep that in mind. Thanks

  • @choppergirl
    @choppergirl Před měsícem

    That bloody accelerator pump cover gets clogged up and the accelerator pump jet that goes into the carb, then your engine bogs down when you twist the throttle. There's no bloody replacement I can find for that cover and the parts are press fit in so I'm trying everything known to man to clean it out. I h8t3 this mikuni carb more than life itself. I've been in and out of it a million times already.

    • @choppergirl
      @choppergirl Před měsícem

      You can clean out all the jets inside the fuel bowl area you want and it don't matter... if your accelerator pump holes are clogged the bike will only run on choke and then bog out on accelerate.

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před měsícem

      Not sure what year your bike is, but but for my 2001 Rebel, the part number for the accelerator cap (and internal parts) is 16021-KEN-620. You can get it from Honda, Partzilla, or ebay. Price ranges from $90 to $125.

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před měsícem

      If you have an early model (85, 86, 87 part number 16021-KR3-671), yeah, that looks hard to find.

    • @choppergirl
      @choppergirl Před měsícem

      @@TheFixitShed I ended up using the smallest drill bit this afternoon to drill past the jet and make my own jet below the rubber accelerator pump diaphram. Make sure you clean out all 4 holes on the side and the 4 (or 1) in the center bottom in that blasted accelerator pump cap.
      My bottom 4 (the older version, they push a square brass piece into a round hole to make 4 orifices) were clogged even with wires and air and B12 solvent and phosphoric acid attacking from both entrances.
      Make sure you clean the accelerator jet that comes out inside the carb barrel. Mine was also clogged up. A wire won't go all the way through it, it does a 90 exit as the hole is on the back side of the brass jet, not end of it.
      If you just clean the main 3 jets and the float bowl filler hole (by watching generic carb videos), you miss a lot of other holes and passage ways everywhere you may not even know are there.
      My bike is still lean bogging and my idle jet is still clogged somewhere because it's only running on choke, even though I've blasted air through the jet. Rubber boots look good. I don't know what to do any more, I'm about to push it off a cliff. I've taken this carb on and off at least 50 times now.
      If you could get the older 85 carb, I'd buy one new and be done with it, but they are unobtanium (like a Honda 450 carb probably). The mounting to the engine is different... instead of two bolts, it slips into a rubber tube. A lot harder to get on and off than your newer version.
      The Honda Rebel is a great bike... until it's not.
      ~
      You can take off your sissy bar back rest, but leave on the rack, and mount a refrigerator rack over it from an old refrigerator... extend the bolts on the left and right side holding the sissy bar on, then run bungee cords to mount it... and you then have a pickup truck bed on the back of your bike over the hard back seat and rack to carry a duffle bag or longer cooler or plastic crate or whatever floats your boat... more cargo space. That's what I did on my CM450 and Honda Shadow.
      MPG on the bike will vary depending on the speed you drive it. I get 50-60mpg, but you can get it up to 70 by being in top gear and keeping it at 35. :-)
      ~
      Also, if you replace the front sprocket with one with 1 more tooth than the stock (findable on ebay), the bike will sound a lot less like a bunch of angry bees.
      I've also replaced the front headlamp housing with a larger fog lamp housing (like that would go on a jeep), which looks bigger and beefier with a bigger light in it and that solved the underpowered headlight problem. Makes it look better too.
      ~
      Don't forget to change your fork oil and clutch oil... both get water in them and rust and stick inside. If your brake lever stops pumping after you change the brake fluid, and you can't bleed the brakes any more, don't bother with a rebuild kit, just buy a whole new lever for $15. (done both, learned which is the way to go). Be careful to buy the one that has the screw hole in it for the mirror, as there are two varieties for the rebel one with and one without. (done both, had to return one).

    • @TheFixitShed
      @TheFixitShed  Před měsícem

      Wow! Lots of good stuff here! I also used a milk crate on the back of my 86 Rebel 450 when I was going to school and using it for a 100 mile round trip daily.