Thank god for this video. I bought a rebel with less than 1000 miles on it that has been sitting for about 7 years. I cleaned the carborator about 6 times and absolutely could not get it to run right at all. It wasn't until this video I realized I am missing the needle jet. 🤦. It must have fell out or blown out while cleaning and I never noticed. I was getting so frustrated. The All Balls racing rebuild kit did not come with one. I ordered a off brand kit on Amazon with a needle jet. I will update once I get it fixed.
Great videos! I have a 2009 rebel which needed a carb clean, followed along and she started right up! Easy and concise to follow, gave me the confidence I was doing things right rather than sending it to the shop. Thanks so much!!
thanks for the video... I did the same thing, was blowing the carb out after soaking it and needle jet fell out and I didn't see where it came from so after much deliberation, I thought I figured it out... I had it in the right hole but i put it in from the top instead of the bottom... it ran that that way but not right... after watching your video I put everything back together where it belonged and now the bike is running perfectly... I was about to order a new carb and you saved the day.... great video... pulling these carbs is no Picinic and not a 5-minute job, at least not until you've done it a half dozen times...lol
You did EXACTLY what I did. I am glad this video helped you out, and that you didn't have to spend money on a new carb. I am happy that your bike is back up and running!
Well that explains why I had all these G.D extra pieces and rubber rings... left over. I h8t3 this thing... I h8t3 it so much. You rebuild it, then you have to rebuild it again, then again, then you forget parts, redo it all again. Working on the carb is not really the problem, it's taking the carb in an out of the bike that is the real PITA, when you did it all right, stick it back in, and find out it still don't work right, and you didn't accomplish a thing.
Yeah, I took this carb out and put it back in 8 or 10 times until I finally figured it out. I got to the point where I could pull it out, fully disassemble it, put it back together, and reinstall the carb in about 30 minutes. Hopefully the video helped you out.
@@TheFixitShedYep, it did, I went back and put the missing rubber rings in. Neither was terribly important. If you do carbs all the time as a mechanic, I'm sure, it becomes second nature, but if you have to do one every 5 years, a PITA. Mainly, a PITA to get them in and out. Once they're out to work on, no big deal. BTW, I went blind for 3 years, from getting Oreilly's carb cleaner spray back into my eyes, just the tiniest of droplets. I got surgery this year to get them fixed, but still. Like looking through a frosted car window for 3 years, unable to read mail, or even count your fingers at arms length. Acetone, toluene, and methanol, penetrates right through a eyeball too, like, within 5 seconds, it's that fast. Running 20 ft for a bathroom sink did not help, it was too late. For this job I used Berryman's B12 as a cleaner and used a tooth brush to brush it on. Which actually worked better than carb spray. Still wear safety glasses though, those bristles can flick droplets back at you. Pressurized carb spray should be made illegal. One of the most dangerous tools in your shop. To clean anything you're tempted like I was to pick it up and do a quick spray at a dirty part, which is what got me (a corroded music box mechanism in my case).
My float height is not right, and it's not adjustable. I did the clear tube test and the fill level is over the gasket. Do you have any idea. My idea is that the 1985 float is different from the all the rest. czcams.com/video/HfnGyS1Al40/video.html czcams.com/video/yN1Wpm9_Xs4/video.html czcams.com/video/g6y32Gw5HK4/video.html My bike will idle on full choke, then if I twist throttle it will stumble, then if blast past that it will run fine.. on choke of course. But it's next to impossible to get past the stumble. The fuel level is definitely over the gasket height because it's leaking even with a new float bowl gasket on it.
I have not. It is still broken. I don't want to pay $8 shipping in addition to the $15 part, and I keep forgetting to include it when I order other parts. It is only an issue if you want to drain the float bowl.
Let me know if you find a center kickstand for a Rebel 250. Looking at a 2016 to purchase and really want a center kickstand. Really enjoying your videos!
Not looking good so far. I posted in the Rebel forum, and there was a guy making them a few years ago, but he stopped due to lack of interest.The one I found on eBay only lists 2001-2009 and 2012-2015, so it may not fit a 2016. I don't know if you were looking at a different listing or not. It could just be that they didn't test it on a 2016. Even so, some on there think it will need modification to fit on the Rebel. They did suggest getting a used one from a CM250. It will still require some modifications to fit the Rebel, but it would be cheaper than the newone on eBay. There is currently one listed for $40 for an 82 CM250
You should not need to do 4 turns out. These are very fine adjustments. A 1/4 turn in or out is a big difference. If you are turning it out 4 turns, you pretty much have the valve wide open. It may indicate that some of the internal passageways are patially obstructed. None of the Rebels I have had needed to have the fuel/air mix that far out to prevent stalling.
@@TheFixitShedon the Rebel I have this screw was all the way in and bent! Just to be clear, when installing the new one it should be 2.5 turns out from all the way in?
If the carb was really dirty, it may need some more cleaning to get all of the passageways cleared out. Also make sure the needle valve is installed properly. Air leakage might cause this as well. Make sure the carb is well sealed against the manifold. I highly recommend checking out HondaRebelForum.com. Lots of great info there and helpful friendly people.
Great videos! You do a real good job on camera explaining and teaching. Curious... I just don't think the main needle jet was your bogging issue. Was your fuel / air screw initially installed incorrectly? I noticed you put a new one in in this video. I believe that was probably your culprit if it was installed and correctly meaning the o-ring spring and washers were out of place. Happens a lot. I want to know what fixed your bog!
Thanks! I am glad you are enjoying the videos. It was definitely the needle jet. I changed the a lot of things that didn't fix it. I really went over it with a fine toothed comb looking for the problem. Installing the needle jet properly made the difference.
Thank god for this video. I bought a rebel with less than 1000 miles on it that has been sitting for about 7 years. I cleaned the carborator about 6 times and absolutely could not get it to run right at all. It wasn't until this video I realized I am missing the needle jet. 🤦. It must have fell out or blown out while cleaning and I never noticed. I was getting so frustrated. The All Balls racing rebuild kit did not come with one. I ordered a off brand kit on Amazon with a needle jet. I will update once I get it fixed.
Yeah, I don't understand why the kit comes with a needle, but not the needle jet. makes no sense. Thanks! I am glad the video helped you out.
What excellent and well presented videos you make . You have helped me so much in fixing and maintaining my 98 Rebel . Many thanks from the UK .
Thank you for your very kind comment. I love hearing that the videos helped someone. Makes it all worthwhile
this series has been excellent, thanks mate!
Glad you like them!
Great videos! I have a 2009 rebel which needed a carb clean, followed along and she started right up! Easy and concise to follow, gave me the confidence I was doing things right rather than sending it to the shop. Thanks so much!!
Glad it helped!
Just got the carb back together. Thanks for the help!
I am glad you found the video helpful.
thanks for the video... I did the same thing, was blowing the carb out after soaking it and needle jet fell out and I didn't see where it came from so after much deliberation, I thought I figured it out... I had it in the right hole but i put it in from the top instead of the bottom... it ran that that way but not right... after watching your video I put everything back together where it belonged and now the bike is running perfectly... I was about to order a new carb and you saved the day.... great video... pulling these carbs is no Picinic and not a 5-minute job, at least not until you've done it a half dozen times...lol
You did EXACTLY what I did. I am glad this video helped you out, and that you didn't have to spend money on a new carb. I am happy that your bike is back up and running!
Thanks much. Super helpful.
Glad you found it helpful
Nothing is worse then when you have a carburetor off the same machine 5 times and still missing something :/
Exactly! I have done this so many times, I can do it blindfolded.
Can you please post the previous and next videos in the series in you description? Having trouble finding the videos I need.
Done
How do I know where to have the idle adjustment? Like how much should it be screwed in and what not? Thanks for the videos you’re a big help
Screw it in until it starts moving the throttle. Start the bike, let it warm up and then adjust it as needed.
2 and half turns is stock rebel i start there and adjust with bike on
Well that explains why I had all these G.D extra pieces and rubber rings... left over.
I h8t3 this thing... I h8t3 it so much.
You rebuild it, then you have to rebuild it again, then again, then you forget parts, redo it all again.
Working on the carb is not really the problem, it's taking the carb in an out of the bike that is the real PITA, when you did it all right, stick it back in, and find out it still don't work right, and you didn't accomplish a thing.
Yeah, I took this carb out and put it back in 8 or 10 times until I finally figured it out. I got to the point where I could pull it out, fully disassemble it, put it back together, and reinstall the carb in about 30 minutes. Hopefully the video helped you out.
@@TheFixitShedYep, it did, I went back and put the missing rubber rings in. Neither was terribly important. If you do carbs all the time as a mechanic, I'm sure, it becomes second nature, but if you have to do one every 5 years, a PITA. Mainly, a PITA to get them in and out. Once they're out to work on, no big deal.
BTW, I went blind for 3 years, from getting Oreilly's carb cleaner spray back into my eyes, just the tiniest of droplets. I got surgery this year to get them fixed, but still. Like looking through a frosted car window for 3 years, unable to read mail, or even count your fingers at arms length. Acetone, toluene, and methanol, penetrates right through a eyeball too, like, within 5 seconds, it's that fast. Running 20 ft for a bathroom sink did not help, it was too late.
For this job I used Berryman's B12 as a cleaner and used a tooth brush to brush it on. Which actually worked better than carb spray. Still wear safety glasses though, those bristles can flick droplets back at you. Pressurized carb spray should be made illegal. One of the most dangerous tools in your shop. To clean anything you're tempted like I was to pick it up and do a quick spray at a dirty part, which is what got me (a corroded music box mechanism in my case).
My float height is not right, and it's not adjustable. I did the clear tube test and the fill level is over the gasket. Do you have any idea. My idea is that the 1985 float is different from the all the rest.
czcams.com/video/HfnGyS1Al40/video.html
czcams.com/video/yN1Wpm9_Xs4/video.html
czcams.com/video/g6y32Gw5HK4/video.html
My bike will idle on full choke, then if I twist throttle it will stumble, then if blast past that it will run fine.. on choke of course. But it's next to impossible to get past the stumble. The fuel level is definitely over the gasket height because it's leaking even with a new float bowl gasket on it.
Did you ever cover the broken plastic Y installation?
I have not. It is still broken. I don't want to pay $8 shipping in addition to the $15 part, and I keep forgetting to include it when I order other parts. It is only an issue if you want to drain the float bowl.
Let me know if you find a center kickstand for a Rebel 250. Looking at a 2016 to purchase and really want a center kickstand. Really enjoying your videos!
Not looking good so far. I posted in the Rebel forum, and there was a guy making them a few years ago, but he stopped due to lack of interest.The one I found on eBay only lists 2001-2009 and 2012-2015, so it may not fit a 2016. I don't know if you were looking at a different listing or not. It could just be that they didn't test it on a 2016. Even so, some on there think it will need modification to fit on the Rebel. They did suggest getting a used one from a CM250. It will still require some modifications to fit the Rebel, but it would be cheaper than the newone on eBay. There is currently one listed for $40 for an 82 CM250
For the trottle and idling you need more than 2.5 turn about 4 turns looser to achieve proper reving or bike will stall and shut off.
Fuel Air handling screw.
You should not need to do 4 turns out. These are very fine adjustments. A 1/4 turn in or out is a big difference. If you are turning it out 4 turns, you pretty much have the valve wide open. It may indicate that some of the internal passageways are patially obstructed. None of the Rebels I have had needed to have the fuel/air mix that far out to prevent stalling.
@@TheFixitShedon the Rebel I have this screw was all the way in and bent! Just to be clear, when installing the new one it should be 2.5 turns out from all the way in?
@@fourstringgirl That is a good place to start. Then adjust as necessary.
Where can you find an accelrator pump kit?
Partzilla.com
@TheFixitShed holy smokes thanks man I was beginning to believe I wouldn't find one!!!
Just done the same thing to mine and it’s still wants to fall on its face wile taking off
If the carb was really dirty, it may need some more cleaning to get all of the passageways cleared out. Also make sure the needle valve is installed properly. Air leakage might cause this as well. Make sure the carb is well sealed against the manifold. I highly recommend checking out HondaRebelForum.com. Lots of great info there and helpful friendly people.
...
Great videos! You do a real good job on camera explaining and teaching. Curious... I just don't think the main needle jet was your bogging issue. Was your fuel / air screw initially installed incorrectly? I noticed you put a new one in in this video. I believe that was probably your culprit if it was installed and correctly meaning the o-ring spring and washers were out of place. Happens a lot. I want to know what fixed your bog!
Thanks! I am glad you are enjoying the videos. It was definitely the needle jet. I changed the a lot of things that didn't fix it. I really went over it with a fine toothed comb looking for the problem. Installing the needle jet properly made the difference.
@@TheFixitShed well I'm going to pull the one out of this rebel that I'm working on and see if that fixes the problem! Keep making the vids!
@@ReMotoCycle Good luck. let me know how it works out.
Any way you could explain to me what all the hoses do? Want to make sure I install them correctly.