Door gap clearance issue SOLVED! I am disappointed in the why.
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- čas přidán 28. 05. 2024
- Trying to solve the mystery on why the door swings into the fender while opening. It clears but not by much. Don’t want paint chips when it’s done, need to find a better solution.
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Adjusting these panel gaps CONSUMES LOTS OF TIME, Man, You've got that right! I was beginning to think I must be doing something wrong. I have found all of your videos helpful Jon, although this is one of the most useful videos I've seen on getting this door correct to the fender. Thank You for sharing this idea friend.
Glad to help. The time spent makes a huge difference in the final product.
I am a Camaro guy so essentially we're dealing with the same frame and panels. I like your work and I like your style. Keep up the great work. Cheers
Yes they are very very similar and this all applies still. Thank you for watching
All the little details and hours spent is what will separate your car from the hacks out there . Keep up the great work.
I could not agree more. Yes it’s more tome but in all seriousness what is 10-15 more hours to
Really get the car to the next level?
Exciting to see the car in one piece. Looking forward to watching it become a finished product. The 69 was the best looking Firebird in my opinion.
1969 is my favorite as well
Yep, since you have the factory hinges, I would use them.
Yup getting rebuilt and installed.
I thought I was losing my mind… thanks a ton!
Anytime, it’s ok I loose my mind all the time
Wow unbelievable I cannot believe those hinges won't work on a 69 Firebird but I guess you proved it here brother thank you for sharing now I know to stay away from those when I'm going to do my Trans Am tribute
Unfortunately they don’t work, that is why it was valuable to share.
I've run into that a few times. Sometimes having to cut extend and reweld the hinges, but sometimes the skin is also too far forward to the inner door frame on aftermarket. Nice to see the attention to detail getting everything fitting/ working properly. Looks like the factory hinges fixed the problem 👍.
Yup. Long story short unlike what the ad says 68&69 hinges are not the same at all.
Very good information, the experience you have pays big dividends for us viewers, Thanks for all you do capturing this kind of information
That’s why i share what I learn to reduce headaches and keep you on track
I had the same exact issue on my 68 only I had original doors and hinges with aftermarket fenders. Shimmed the hinges out like you did and got it clearanced. My least favorite part of the build so far was working those gaps. Looking good man!
Right on. Making aftermarket parts fit definitely increases the challenges
For sure. Worth the effort when done.
Much gooder Jon !
True Craftsman!
Way gooder indeed
Great catch and solution John!
Trying to make the best final product I can and sharing the good and the bad.
Really glad you did this video. I have a 1967 Firebird convertible I’ve owned for 47 years. It was my first car and I still have it . Both doors need replacing but I wasn’t sure about aftermarket doors because I’d heard a lot about problems fitting them up. Think I’ll go ahead and get a set now. Thanks for the great info. My car is on my CZcams channel, Pontiacs and Pickin if you’d like to check it out. Thanks again for the videos.
Wow your car looks great! Loads of potential plus it appears to be a real 400 bird as well
I’ve been having that same problem with my drivers door, original door and fender, but I replaced the sprung hinge. Never really thought about the hinge being the problem. Thanks for the info!!
Glad to help and hope it solves your problem as well.
Hi John, well you just found out that 68 top hinges are shorter than 69 top hinges.
That’s why they sell 68 and 69 hinges with different parts number.
By the way this happened to me in 1985. Ya I’m old. That’s what my 35 year old says.lol
lol. Old it happens. I know they had different part numbers but now I know the why. Shame they sell the hinges listed for either 68/69 when in fact not true. That is why I figured it was worth sharing
@@VinylVillageGarage I think the bottom hinges are really close to being the same. Not sure
That's why I like factory gaps
All the test fitting takes up time to get them right.
@VinylVillageGarage with factory gaps. You save the time. And if you bump something or someone else bumps the fender you don't have to worry about the door hitting the fender so much when opening the door
crazy how things like that can change the alignment and function of a door. Doors are hard enough to line up and open/close without throwing that in aftermarket hinges. 69 is a different animal.
Lesson learned just because the part supplier says it for a 1969 doesn’t mean they are.
Lucky you had the knowledge and extra car to check that! Not sure I’d even notice it till it was too late!
This is the why share this stuff to help keep us aware of potential issues and solutions.
Appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
My pleasure!
My car looks great you're taking good care of it 😂😂👍👍
Of course.
Jon, I suspect you will be rebuilding the original hinges since you have them. Thank you for the video!
Yes I will be indeed
OEM is usually the best. Nice the hinge can be rebuilt. As you mentioned in the last video those doors are so heavy. When I was very young our family had a 1975 Pontiac Catalina 2 door. My sister called it Big Red. Now we are talking!! When that door closed it was like a bank vault door closing shut. No big wheel to lock it though :)
I have had this issue before myself. What I ended up doing is having some 3/16 shims made that were rectangular and they were kind of shaped like an inverted w or an m where you could slide them in from the top and they would sit down in there and then you could tighten the the bolts through to the frame for the hinge.
I was planning on creating shims sometime like that once it was a confirmed repair. I really like the W idea thanks
John the power of commin knowledge is amazing!! Fantastic work!!👍🏽
I appreciate that! Sharing the good and the bad hoping it helps save some headaches
Well alrighty! I just finished 12 hours of continuous wet sanding on all the jambs for color and have the finger tips to prove it! Car is out of town and we're assembling it next week. During test fit of all factory door, hinge, fender, potential line up looked terrible to me, but my body guy says it'll be fine. Mtf. Great solution vid as usual!
That is awesome! Amazing how sanding wears down your fingernails too. Good luck with the fitment
I will definitely keep this in mind, before cussing myself out for not being able to get the door right. Thanks for sharing. I thought I heard somewhere that 68 and 69 had different hinges, could be wrong. I didn’t look into it since we have a ‘67. Nice fix.👍
Different part numbers for 68 and 69. The company selling the hinges said fits both evidently not true. Figured it was worth sharing
I like your work ethic!
I appreciate that!
Thanks for the tips...good content and can't wait to see more...thanks🔧🔧👍
You bet! Plenty more to come.
Throw the factory hinge back on just for your own edification.
Great work btw.
Edit: I see you did just that.
I did! I could not rest until I knew for sure!
@@VinylVillageGarage Yup. Youre extremely talented and knowledgeable, and theres only one way to get like that…by always being inquisitive and learning.
Sure do wish your vids were around when I had my 68 bird…haha.
Keep up the great work!!!
@@user-ws7qh5zg8f thank you!!! Will do
Great info .... Ask if will do a detailed video on assembling the front bumper assembly ?
Thanks
Oh definitely, I will be getting to that one. Seems to be the highest requested as well.
Very good problem solving! You got it figured out!
Keeping me on my toes that is for sure
I have seen people use the same kind of shim used on the front suspension for camber and caster on the upper A-frame
Yup I have seen the same thing
I heard that the weight of the doors internals (glass, regulators etc) can affect the door gaps. Have you seen this happen?
Yup did a video on it on the previous build. It will sag the door almost 1/8”. What I do for now is just get it all lined up then when I take it apart the last time to paint and when I install the door for the last time I put the glass in and adjust accordingly
I seen the egg!
Well thank you very much!
Jon, have you heard anything on the Goodmark brand of fenders, panels, etc? I know they've been around for a long time but I haven't seen their name around much lately. I was told that AMD is an off shoot of Goodmark and maybe that's why I haven't seen their name. I found a couple places that are selling fenders and they proclaim they are Goodmark. What do you think? Firebird Central said they would go with Dynacorn, but I've never heard of them. Thank you.
I have used goodmark panels and happy with the fitment. The goodmark name was way more popular years back. Don’t hear much about them now. I think for the most part all the sheetmetal is stamped at one place then sorted by quality inspection down to different names. Can’t say that for sure just a hunch.
@@VinylVillageGarage Thank you for your input Jon.
exact same s my car i made shims out of 1/8 inch aluminum bar stock for the top hinge and i believe the hood was the issue as i have stock doors and fenders. i had to shim both sides to get it right and
Making it lineup and work consumes a lot of time but so worth it in the end. You can tell cars that didn’t get this attention
@@VinylVillageGarage i believe it has a lot to do with that aftermarket top hinge I have heard the 68 and 69 hinges are different I also used the aftermarket hinges as my 69 hinges were damaged
@@chrismansker8870 you are correct I have just recently been schooled that the 68 hinge is shorter and that is why it need shimmed to make them work. I knew different part numbers
But that doesn’t always mean anything but in this case it does.
I have been tempted to shim my doors out. Does it affect the weather stripping seal? Nice job Jon!
I don’t think it will. If anything it will be closer to the correct location and work better
un related question i have a 1967 firebird complete i built out new subframe engine trans suspension i would like to pull front clip as complete as possible install subframe reinstall front clip whats the best way for me to remove front clip and your video inspired me to build out subframe
Of the car is painted and not needing paint work I would remove the hood first,
Lower valance then the front bumper assembly and finish body panel removal with the fenders and get somebody to help to avoid chipping the paint. Now if still gets paint the same way as above or you could remove the entire assembled dog house once you remove the radiator from the core support and front bumper. Then remove the two lower mounts on the core support then 5 bolts that hold each fender to the firewall/cowl then the 3 bolts at the rear for the inner wheel wells you should be able to remove it a an assembly then.
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you for your time and help this info is going to help
😮
Never a dull moment
@@VinylVillageGarage nope never haha
68 hinges are different from 69 as the 69 body is wider… I wonder if you have 68 hinges
I think your on the right path They are reproduction hinges listed for 1968/1969 clearly not the same. I have used these hinges on a 68 and they worked great.
@@VinylVillageGarage Jubee did a video on just this same situation in the last year. He showed the difference in the hinge pin location. While I know Jubee takes a different approach to these cars than you do. You 2 guys are a great wealth of knowledge that the community benefits greatly from!
Take measurements to prove discrepancies.
They are definitely then original I will see about getting an exact amount of difference