Mercedes W208 upper suspension arm tips and tricks
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- čas přidán 20. 04. 2020
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tips and tricks inside this video hopefully help you
don't forget get your hands dirty
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Mercedes w202 front upper suspension arm how to remove and install tips and tricks inside the video we show you how to do it the easy way
The first-generation W208/C208 CLK was introduced in 1997, and was based on the W202 Mercedes-Benz C-Class launched three years earlier. The W208 coupé was replaced by the W209 CLK-Class in 2002 (for the 2003 model year), although the convertible remained in production until 2003 when replaced by the C209 CLK.
HistoryEdit
The CLK introduced a new market niche for Mercedes-Benz. Although the W208 used components from the E-Class (W210), aesthetic based on the E-Class and had a specification level higher than the E-Class, it was in fact based on the less expensive C-Class (W202) platform.
Two versions were initially available: the four-cylinder CLK 200 (136 PS (100 kW; 134 bhp)) and four-cylinder supercharged CLK 230 Kompressor 193-197 PS (142-145 kW; 190-194 bhp).
The CLK 320 Coupé was introduced in the 1997 model year, powered by a 218 PS (160 kW; 215 bhp) 3.2 L V6 engine. The CLK GTR FIA GT1 racing carappeared in 1998, powered by a 5.9 L V12 engine; 25 road-going CLK GTRs were made. The CLK 430 Cabriolet and the 279 PS (205 kW; 275 bhp), M113 4.3 L V8-powered CLK430 appeared in 1999. All models were available in both coupé and convertible form. In Europe, the supercharged I-4 powered CLK200 Kompressor was also available, reaching impressive 193 bhp, thanks to euro2 permissive emission specs.
In late 1999 for the 2000 model year, a facelift was launched which incorporated, among others, a revised instrument cluster with a bigger multifunction display, steering wheel with controls for the multifunction display and radio, Tiptronic automatic gearbox, revised bumpers and new side skirts. Wing mirror-mounted turn signals were not implemented until 2001 for the 2002 year model.
In the United States, the CLK430 could be equipped with a "Sport Package," which gave it the external styling of the more powerful CLK55 AMG, and equipped it with the same wheels and tires as its AMG counterpart (see section "CLK55 AMG"). This allowed it to reach up to 0.83G's of lateral acceleration, and 66.5 mph on the slalom run.
Since the CLK55 Cabriolet didn't officially release until 2002. In 2001 the CLK430 cabriolet could be equipped with all the AMG options as a special order from the AMG factory with the full AMG55 setup, which includes the CLK55 AMG engine and transmission, AMG suspension, AMG brakes and full set up as a factory option. Making it the first 2001 CLK55 Cabriolet. Although only a very few were built.[2]
The high-performance CLK 55 AMG, which was introduced first in Europe in 2000, was powered by the 347 PS (255 kW; 342 bhp) M113 5.4 L V8 engine; the CLK55 AMG Cabriolet was launched in 2002, the last model year of this bodystyle
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Bodgit And Leggit Garage, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Bodgit And Leggit Garage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Bodgit And Leggit Garage recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Bodgit And Leggit Garage, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained
#w208 #easyway #mercedes - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Good stuff, mate!
Love the Chrome rust covers on the wheel arches.
I'm just loving the Air cleaner.
Good job
Great Vid Leon 👍
Thanks mate
Very informative, I always put anti seized on those long bolts to avoid future problem.
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Good work Leon 🔧🔧😃
Thanks mate
Love the tape trick ,cheers
Any time mate
Nice one Leon.
Thanks mate
loved it
Thanks mate
@@bodgitandleggitgarage Yourrrrrrrr WWWWELCOM
Hello. We changed a new front sway bar bushings and painted the bar from rust. After that I have a strong clunking noise when driving on bad roads. Is it possible we turn the sway bar in opposite direction, top down, but what I know is that the mechanic tightened the sway bar bushings when vehicle was still in the air and not under the weight of the car. Is this maybe the reason ?
Do you have any advice of what parts of the computer to remove and how for a 1998 e430? It's right above that nut
To me it would seem that they would put the threads in the middle for torquing the bolt since you can’t get a torque wrench on the nut side?
Threaded in the middle because the two bushes need to align straight. Otherwise the the two centres would bind and there would be a high chance of the bolt coming loose.
They use a thread because it's less likely to get stuck with corrosion than a thick bit.
Some cars had solid bolts all the way through and they were impossible to remove. A friend spent days cutting the arm off an old Jag with that problem.
Hi mate there is only one bushing in here
Just so you know the special nut is called a stover nut, it's a mechanical self locking nut, it's squashed across 1 axis, when you do it up it gets hot, which expands it, allowing it to turn easier, once tight it cools down crimping onto the bolt, you'll notice when taking it off it gets pretty hot.
I know what the nut is called mate I see a lot especially on manifolds and things like that
@@bodgitandleggitgarage Well, I didn't know what it was called and you didn't tell us in the video. Really no need snap at someone providing information.
Know a lot of lads even in my job as an electrician who use power tools to wind screws, bolts etc in and out. Have had loads of bother with stripped and crossed threads and also broken bolts.
You can't blame the tool for people who don't use it properly lol
@@bodgitandleggitgarage very true
Is it to assist the bolt self extract as its turned, rather than just spin in situ? Also it has support in the middle when fitted as it looks waisted between the threaded portions.
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that was the easy side, i did it on a w210 the passenger side, you have to take apart the ECU box, to get to the nut. like'd the tip with the tape. i used blue tic to hold the nut.
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The only reason I could think of there being a thread in the middle with Loctite would be to bond the bolt to the metal inner. The only reason I could think they would do that is because they actively want to use the rubber as some sort of torsion spring. Odd.
The bushes on almost all suspension arms operate with the rubber in torsion, the inner metal liner being constrained by the bolt or stud against the body or subframe.
Is it an anti-vibration 'collar' as its a long thin bolt?
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Sorted..
Boom
Is it threaded to stop it seizing in the bushing
happens a lot in the w211 chassis on the rear bushings...
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Sorry im late
💣💣💣💣💣💣💣
SORTED
Lol thanks mate
What does “get it tracked” mean?
It means it needs to be tracked after you do this job
A bolt is a bolt , the thing you screw onto a bolt is called a Nut
Ok seriously don't know what you're trying to get here are you trying to be funny or smart
@@bodgitandleggitgarage you keep referring to nuts as bolts , just stating that , not trying to be smart , too clever for that , been in the job over 40 years
6:37 "manually by hand"
Well that's a better, improved way, method than doing it automatically with a machine. :-P
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So...you only did the easyer side...🤣🤣🤣