Glad you made this video I found the roller that goes to the carb laying in my 61 qd 22 i just bought and didn't know were it went until I watched this video. Thanks for making it.
I have been subscribed for a while and I really like your videos. You inspired me, and I picked up a 59 Evinrude Golden Jubilee Sportwin 10 yesterday. I am really excited to fix it and get it back on the water. Thanks for all your great content.
Robert Judkins You're welcome. I hooe this helps. I will say that the 59 Super Seahorse has a slightly different way of setting the sync of the throttle to the spark advance. The smaller motors from 3-18hp set just like this one. The 35s have a fixed throttle cam one the magneto plate. There is a small round plastic disc in the throttle arm on the carburetor. That disc has an offset hole for the throttle link and a slot for a screwdriver in the center or close to center. Set the throttle cam so the sync mark is in the center of the roller. Rotate the disc slowly with a screwdriver while watching the arm on the throttle shaft that passes thru the carb. Set the disc at the point where the throttle shaft JUST begins to open. Check the sync after setting the same way I described in this video. Quite easy to set these, just a slightly different way. Thanks for watching!
dude you're amazing. i didn't know about the throttle stop in neutral. i thought it should be revving a bit higher than it wasd and couldn't figure it out.also didn't know about the link n sink timing setup. that's pretty important. thanks alot man!!!!!!!!just got a new to me 1961 14ft starcraft and a 1963 18hp fastwin. been trying to get her running good and you've helped alot!
Thank you! I'm glad i have been helpful. You got a nice rig there with the Starcraft 14 and a 63 Fastwin! I love those motors. The link n sync is pretty important to good run quality. You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Good video. I like it when someone does a how to video when they know how to do things right way. There is to many how to videos out there done by people not knowing the right way to do things Thanks
Great video Old JohnnyRude. i was going to post a question regarding the tllier handle setting on the AOMCI but i found this video, well i scored on another 1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18 hp that i just couldn't pass up for $60 all original in excellent condition seller wanted $240 originally , i replaced all the norms coils, point, condensers, plugs, carb kit, impeller and lower unit seals. since it had been sitting for a very long time my question is when i put everything back i noticed that in the neutral position i can only move the handle from slow to start is this normal? looks like this one is set the same. i thought that in the neutral position i would be able to turn it all the way to the right to the shut off position but it stops at the slow position, any help is greatly appreciate it!!
Love your videos because I end up with a lot of old outboards. I’ve learned a lot working on them, but I have a Johnson Seahorse 10 hp and I wondered if you knew the needle settings
Thank you. It's great to hear that feedback. As far as the carb needles go, you will hear lots of different opinions on needle settings. For myself, after a carburetor rebuild I typically start woth both needles set at 1.5 turns put from lightly seated. This is always a rich setting that needs to be tuned out, but it usually makes the first start pretty uneventful. I have a video on this channel where I demonstrate dialing in an OMC carburetor after a rebuild. Final settings depend on each motor and ambient conditions, but more often than not, they'll end up somewhere just under 1 turn out on the high speed and around 3/4 turn out on the low speed. I always prefer to start rich and lean them out for final tuning. Only adjust low speed after the high speed has been dialed in at WOT under load and the engine is up to operating temperature. Thanks for watching!
If I pull the throttle on the carb my outboard will accelerate and run fine. But if I use the twist throttle it bogs and dies. Do you know what my problem might be?
One more ? for you. The tiller handle on the motor I picked up does fit my 56. the brass gear teeth are pointed. I changed out both from the 62 to the 56, they do not line up properly. I also found on ebay a 17" tiller gear . will this solve my problem?
The aluminum tiller arm and grips are mechanically interchangeable from 1953 until they went to cable throttle control inside the tillers in the late 1970s (This applies to the small clamshell tillers). They changed from the pointed stamped brass gears to cast bronze ball gears in 1956. That is why the gear teeth do not match or line up. I would have to measure one of the tiller shafts with the gear to know if that is the correct one, but I believe that is correct. As long as that one is the correct length and has the bronze ball gear, it will fit and solve your problem. The 17" geared shaft is for the long tiller on a RD/Big Twin. The smaller tiller for the 5.5hp up through 22 c.i. 18hp-25hp uses a 12" long geared shaft.
Thank you! I bought my last Big Twin tiller on Ebay. They're not real plentiful, but they're out there and they do pop up now and then. A '56 should have the rounded tooth cast bronze ball gear. Just watch for the proper gear type. Thanks for watching!
since I PM you earlier I picked up a 1962 Evinrude elec. start. I am hoping I can switch out the tiller from the 62 to the 59. Is this feasible? Got motor very cheap.
Yes, the tillers are interchangeable. They handles are the same from 1953 until the 1970s. From 1956- on they used the cast bronze ball gears so the '62 and the '59 are mechanically the same. The electric start stuff is interchangeable also.
Any idea where I can get a new throttle rod and the plastic handle? Bought one of these motors. Mines a 10022 1961 model. Got it running but the white handle is snapped in half and the throttle rod back to the joint is super stiff.
I would check out ebay for a used tiller grip. The Johnson grips of the same era also fit if you don't mind a different designed grip. Have you taken the tiller arm apart and actually found that section of rod to be the part of the system that is stiff? That part is sometimes the culprit of a stiff throttle, but it is more often a combination of parts of the system from.the hinge back causing most of the stiffness. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
There is a brass colored ring that the magneto plate rotates on mounted to the top of the block under the flywheel. That ring has holes and slots in it. One end of the spring hooks through one of the holes in that plate. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for assistance on my 56 Fastwin project over the past year or so. Put on the lake, what a great running motor! Your videos on the ignition system for these engines was wonderful and results proved that. Another issue though. Having disassembled, cleaned, reassembled a few tiller handles over time, they only seem to go back together one way. Same with the gears running the throttle arm. This Fastwin is a low hour engine, the gears seemed fine, in spite of this, they "separate" before hitting the full throttle stop. In frustration, ordered new pinon gear, throttle control gear and throttle control bushing. Reassembled, no improvement, do you have any advice?
@@steveholm6948 You're welcome and I am always happy to hear when my videos are helpful to someone. I'm very glad you got your motor tuned up and running well on the water. For the tiller gear engagement, that can be corrected by shimming. Using round shims behind the tiller side gear to take up the excess backlash will help. The gears on the ends of the fixed shaft should also be shimmed to allow for full engagement. Use round shims (various thicknesses of washers) to set both end for minimum end play and sufficient gear engagement. I have had to do this with several motors I have worked on. Shimming those gears for proper fit is key. Sometimes they just don't fit correctly without them. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Which spring are you referring to? The one that returns the throttle cam follower? That one connects to one of the holes in the brass colored ring that retains the magneto plate to the block. Thanks for watching!
If there is no movement at all in the tiller grip, the grip is frozen. If there is slight movement in the grip but nothing else, start working from the throttle shaft that is connected to the grip and work toward the motor. There are many places it can get bound up I have had to take some of them completely apart to get them freed up and working well again. The screw in the side of the grip near the top holds it onto the shaft. The grip must come off along with the indicator band to get the two screws out that hold that end of the tiller together. I hope this will help. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thank you for your reply, you were spot on. This morning I went out before getting your message and started at the tiller handle and removed the throttle grip. Looking inside with a flashlight I could see two cracks in the shaft housing. Looking up the engine model I found the grip assembly and there's a big difference between the grip control on my motor and the one I found thanks to Google. I believe someone forced this grip onto the tiller with a "This'll work" frame of mind. I ordered the replacement and will be here soon. After removing it from the tiller, everything seemed to work the way it should without binding up. Easy fix. I also located a 50s model 35hp Evinrude for $200 I'm going to be picking up tomorrow. Even better than what I have now power wise and I think I inadvertently found a new hobby lol Thank you for your advice and knowledge. Im sure I'll be bugging you more now that I'm getting another motor. Excellent videos. Thank you
I have a 1954 QD15 10hp. My throttle is pretty hard to turn and sometimes isn't consistent to where I want it. It's hard to turn and sometimes jumps or lowers speed as if it wasn't in the right throttle position. It's weird. I lube everything up that is connected to it that turns while turning it. Do you have any suggestions on what that could be? I seen other videos with the throttle looking so smooth.
The throttle control should be easy to turn and should operate smoothly. There are a number of things that may adversely affect the throttle operation of these motors. I know you said you have lubricated everything that turns while turning it. I'm just not sure if you have actually gotten to everything. There are a.lot of.places it can get sticky and often it is a result of the grease drying out or just lack of lubrication in some areas. Some areas that often get missed are the friction block inside the tiller grip, the plastic bushing at the bevel gear end of the gear shaft, and the support ring and retaining ring under the magneto plate. The 1955 and earlier motors use a stamped brass gear with pointed teeth. That gear is also more prone to damage than the later cast bronze ball gear. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 wow so I rechecked all the gears again. And to my surprise the guy who restored it had painted over the gears and over the grease. So I cleaned off the grease and noticed chunks of paint and old dried grease in the gears which wasn't allowing me to turn it smooth. Should I remove all the paint from the gears. I mean I think I should . Makes sense to me. Never seen painted gears before.
@@e9583 Well, the factory painted them too, but not over grease. It certainly will not hurt anything to clean the pain and old grease out of the gears. I usually take the entire system apart, clean it and lubricate it with a light application of waterproof grease. I like a smooth operating throttle control. 👍
Is the cam follower at the mark on the butterfly when the throttle handle is at the idle position? My follower is not even on the butterfly. I have a 74 6hp fisherman
The cam follower is at the mark on the cam at the exact time the butterfly just starts to open. Where the tiller grip is pointing on the indicator ring is of no consequence when setting link n sync. It will be in the slow /low idle range if all the gears are lined up correctly, but that indicator is just an idea anyway. Thanks for watching!
I would bet you have lost spark to the cylinder that isn't firing. It is probably a bad coil, but may also be a bad condenser, dirty points, shirt in the plug wire, etc. A full tune up going through the ignition system and fuel system would almost certainly have it running like new again. Thanks for watching!
Great video I just bought one of these and the idle seems a bit off I will try to set everything according to this video and see how it goes. Mine has a shut off button, and I’m assuming that when the throttle on this model is all all the way on slow speed it should stay idle?
Congratulations on your new motor. To get the best idle out of these, the carburetor has to be clean, the points have to be clean and properly adjusted and spark plugs need to be in good shape. With that and following the video for the link n sync the needles can be adjusted for best running condition. These motors are equipped with a kill button and a stop screw to set the idle speed. With the secrew set low enough the engine will die from just retarding the spark far enough. The kill button allows the desired idle / trolling speed to be set with the stop screw. That disables the ability to kill the engine with the twist grip so that's where the button comes in. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude all ignition parts are new just need to clean the carb. I’m going to try your tips mentioned in the video. Or do you think I should tear it down and do a complete rebuild? Thanks for speedy reply
@@stevenlopes960 If all the ignition parts are new I would give the carb a thorough cleaning and try to dial it in from there. If you can't get it to idle satisfactorily then clean and adjust the points and try it again.
Johnny do you have a website that you can share for getting parts for older motors. I have delt with Marine Engine.com, but there parts don't go back to 1956 so they tell me. need lower unit rebuild kit. Much appreciated if you can help.
I do not have a website and I don't sell parts. I buy many of mine from Marineengine.com as well. As for lower unit seals, which horsepower 1956 motor are you looking for seals for? The 15/18/20hp OMC motors all use the same seals.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thank you very for answering, but I don't think you understood my question. I'm wondering about the spring that pulls the wires downward to protect them from the spinning flywheel.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thank you again ! I just now looked and saw a little tab with a hole in it down in that area, so I'll shop for a spring. I did have some damage on one of the spark plug wires from the armature plate rubbing on it and wondered why that happened and tried to aim the wires out of the armature plate better and even added black tape temporarily. I was very surprised to see you mention the spring because I never seen one in decades of owning my pride and joy. Now I consider that spring to be a very vital component of the ignition system, because it wouldn't have been very long before the insulation wore down enough to short the spark to ground if I didn't notice... which could ruin a fantastic day on the water, which will never happen to me (in that way :)... thanks to your awesome video. I hope my contribution helps others prevent such an event.
Mark Weaver To remove the throttle gears, you first must remove the tiller grip, then the tiller handle. The pinch screw needs to be loosened in the horizontal throttle bevel gear and the shaft needs to be removed from that bevel gear. The screws that hold the vertical throttle arm to the side of the engine need to be removed. Once those are out the clip that holds the arm to the link on the mag plate needs to be removed so those can be separated. One separated lift the vertical throttle arm out of the slotted hole in the vertical bevel gear and high enough to allow you to lift the vertical bevel gear out of the hole it sits in. If that gets too confusing let me know and I can find time to make another video showing how to get that out on a similar motor. All the geared throttle OMC motors work essentially the same way.
Thank You! I tried to get the tiller handle shaft out of the gear, I thought the pinion on the end with screw through it was the only thing holding it....apparently NOT, when you fold the handle up it looks like the shaft running to the vertical gear should slide back out of the gear but no, I will follow you instructions....THANKS for the GREAT help!
Mark Weaver Yes, the gear at the tiller tilt joint will not allow the horizontal shaft to be withdrawn while the tiller handle is in place. To remove the tiller handle, remove the screw form the grip first. There is a spring and a friction block and sometimes a thin washer inside there. After the grip is off, the two acres that hold the halves together under the grip and the larger screw near the pivot must be removed. There are a couple of this brass washers in the pivot that will probably fall out when you take the handle apart and off. Watch for them and don't lose them.
Mark Weaver You're welcome! Glad I could help out. These are wonderful outboards. Enjoy it! In case you are not aware of them the two biggest limitations of these motors are the small wrist pins in the powerhead and the 4-bolt (smaller size) gearcase. As long as the proper mix ratio (24:1) is used the engines last a very long time. More oil does not hurt the engine. I prefer to use a biodegradeable full synthetic TCW-3 2-stroke oil. It's better for the aquatic life and it lubricates better than the conventional oil. As for the gearcase, they hold up fine as long as no water gets in. If the seals leak and let water in, the 10hp will wreck the lower unit pretty quickly. Check the gear oil for water often and reseal if you find it is leaking. The '57 and earlier OMC 10s used the larger 5 bolt gearcase like the 15 and 18hp. They are a little heavier and a little slower through the water but very rugged with a 10hp powerhead on them. Just something to be aware of.
Thank you for all this good info, I have a question for you, what is the proper adjustment of the screw by the bevel gears on the tiller throttle linkage? Also part of this is the throttle/timing sync. What is supppsed to kerp the throttle butterfly open to idle position? When my cam follower get below tge sync line on the cam the rpms just keep going down and down until it just stops. It will idle fine at fairly low speeds, but it seems to ve missing a way of keeping the throttle plate from closing off all air. Btw the casting where my screw goes is broken, I have to use a hose clamp around the vert. Bevel gear as a stop, but same principal. Thx in advance for any info! Btw check out my video of it if you like.
The screw by the bevel gears for the throttle linkage (assuming you are referring to the horizontal screw that is in the gear that the vertical throttle control arm fit into) is to set the desired idle / trolling speed. That speed is actually set by the timing and is running completely on the low speed circuit of the carburetor. The butterfly is completely closed at this time and the air that passes thru the carb throat is controlled by the cutout in the throttle plate by the tiny holes in the top of the carb bore. The fuel for the low speed circuit passes thru these holes into flow of air thru that cutout. The butterfly shoukd not be open at all at idle speed. It shoukd be fully closed at the moment the sync line on the throttle cam is in the center of the roller. From there the timing slows the RPMs until it reaches the throttle stop or shuts the engine off. The early 50s motors did not have this stop screw at all. They added the shop screw when they added the kill button in 1958. If your motor is 1957 or older there should not be a stop screw and the engine is stopped by regarding the spark advance until it dies. Your motor seems to run and idle pretty well. I don't quite understand the reason for the hose clamp you are talking about.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 well it started out in an effort to hold some shims in between the ears of the vertical shaft that is badly worn, this takes slop out of the throttle, but when I saw your screw and that my casting has an unpainted jagged edge I assumed mine had been broken off. It is an early model, I forget what year but 56 sounds right. Anyway I guess this is just how it works, I was going to ask if you set the idle screw how do you shut it off 😁 now I know and will rotate the hose clamp so it doesn't stop the throttle. So anyway, I still am not sure my idle circuit is working properly though as it won't stay running much below the sync mark on the cam. Also I need to adjust or clean the friction device in the handle, if you let go it tuns to the off position. Thanks again for the info, I love bringing back those things others have given up on, and I think a lot of the old stuff was better to begin with
integr8er66 I fully understand the reason for the hose clamp now. The best way to remove the slop in that joint is to remove the vertical throttle arm and push out the plastic rod with the "keys" on the ends from the vertical rod. Make a new piece from 3/8" nylon rod and cut the "keys" wider so they fit the worn slot in the gear snugly. You may have to file the gear slots out some so the slot sides are parallel again. You can also use a piece of 3/8" rigid copper tubing and flatten the ends enough to fit the worn slot snugly. Either way will get rid of the slop in this joint. It is possible that your lower bevel gear was swapped at some point with a later one and that stop screw boss was broken off of it? That kind of thing is pretty common. Lots of interchangeability in the classic OMC motors. There are a number of things that affect how these engines idle. The low speed carb circuit must be completely clean. The needle packing must be snug and in good condition. The low speed needle and needle seat in the carb body need to be in good condition. The ignition system must be in good shape and properly timed. The timing tool is the best way to set the points. A 0.020" feeler gage can give satisfactory results if one is very careful setting the points at the high spot on the points cam. The points opening at the correct time as the magnet passes the coils gets the best spark. The two sets of points set to open exactly 180 degrees apart gives the smoothest idle. The coil heels should be set to align exactly with the machined part of the armature plate where the coils mount. Err very slightly to inside those surfaces if you are not using the coil setting ring to avoid the laminations rubbing the magnet inside the flywheel. Air leaks at the crankshaft, crankcase seam, and the throttle shaft on the carburetor all contribute in their own ways to poor idle quality. If the engine slows to a stop when you let go of the tiller grip the flywheel may be dragging on the coil laminations. Also, the friction block inside the tiller grip may be missing. If that is missing, the rotation of the flywheel magnet will have a tendency to draw the armature plate in the direction that retards the spark timing. There is a spring that pushes the friction block into the conical surface inside the grip. this spring may also be missing. Many times these parts are removed if the motor is ever used with remote controls. Sometimes they get lost and do not find their way back into the motor when the control cables are removed. There is a good chance that stuff is gone if your motor is doing this and the coils are not rubbing. I do very much enjoy bringing back to life these old motors that others have given up on. I get a lot of enjoyment out of putting them back on a boat and running them too. New stuff is so complicated and so dependent on so many different things (many of which are electronic) working properly together to function. These classics are so much simpler and have so little to fail, they just work and keep on working.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 wow, that is a lot of information in one spot! You are a fantastic resource to have thank you for your time putting that together! I'll post a video when I take her out. I just ordered packing for the needles, a lower seal kit and impeller for it, J have already replaced the coils and points, I did set the points with a feeler gage, but I don't remember how I set the coil, but I don't think its dragging. I hope I don't have to put a crank seal in, that sounds like its pretty deep inside.
@@integr8er66 Thank you and you're welcome.☺ Looking forward to seeing the video of your motor on the water. If yours is a 56, it may have the lipseal type crank seals that are rather prone to failure. There is a puller made for those or they can be carefully drilled and pulled out with screws. You can make a driver out of a piece of pipe to put the new seals back in. Of course the powerhead has to come off to get to the lower seal. The upper seal is right under the magneto. With the proper puller it is an easy job.
Greg Offenback Yes they are very well built. It seems like some things did start to decline by the end of the 60s. These motors are built for maintainability. That definitely started to fall off with some of the later designs.
Kyler Carson Is the throttle stop arm that holds the shift lever in position moving properly? In neutral, it limits the throttle to start position so it doesn't over rev with no load. When you shift into forward gear, the top.part of that bar should move away from the flywheel far enough to allow the magneto plate to fully advance.
Old JohnnyRude ok so the shifter bar works properly when it is in drive the throttle only moves to the point where it would get governed in reverse. It’s like the throttle gear doesn’t have enough teeth to move it all the way to the max throttle.
Kyler Carson It's possible that the throttle gear teeth have skipped or got moved sometime if the tiller has been apart. I'll see if I can get a quick video of the throttle gears working properly so you can compare tomorrow. In either case, if the gears are off, the tiller has to come apart to fix it. It isn't too difficult though.
It starts up and will run most of the way across the lake and then will almost die and pick back up and will keep doing this the hole time it's running
@@travissnyder5123 OK. A few other questions to get me up to speed. Is this a pressure tank or a single line suction tank with a fuel pump? Have you rebuilt the carburetor since you have owned the motor? Have you checked the fuel system for leaks?
@@travissnyder5123 I would rebuild the carburetor with a new OEM carb repair kit. That will get you a new float valve needle and seat, new gaskets and new packing. I would replace the fuel lines while the carburetor is off for a rebuild. Will gas come out of the front of the carb if you "over-prime" the carb with the bulb? Spitting gas out the front of the carb often indicates the float valve is not sealing and shutting off flow. The other thing that can cause this is a blocked or partially blocked bowl vent. There are two vent holes in the body of the carburetor that allows atmospheric pressure into the bowl. If either of them is blocked it can cause the fule level to rise above the float and come out of the carb throat while the engine is starving for fuel. Before rebuilding the carb I would try a couple things though. Run the motor on the boat again. When it starts to die out, try pumping the primer bulb to see if the fuel supply is starving at the carb from the tank. If the pumping the carb bowl with the bulb makes it take off again your main issue may not be with the carburetor. You may have a leaking O-ring in the fuel line that is allowing it to draw air into the line. You may also have a failing fuel pump.
HOW ABOUT MAKING AN EARLY 50,S JOHNSON VIDEO ON TIMING AND CARB SET FOR LIKE A 10 HP 53 SEAHORSE THEIR ARE LOTS OF LATE 50,S BUT NO EARLY 50,S MODELS THANKS
I'll make note that you would like to see the timing and carb adjustments for an early QD. I'll try to make a video next time I work on one. I have a couple of them to work on. Thanks for watching!
It never hurts to look, but if you're happy with how it runs its probably fine. This shows how itnis supposed to function when things are set up properly. Thanks for watching!
A 1956 OMC 30hp is a 24:1 gasoline to oil mix ratio. Any gasoline 87 octane or higher is fine. Try to stick with ethanol free gasoline to prevent any issues with the rubber parts and the fuel system. Thanks for watching!
Glad you made this video I found the roller that goes to the carb laying in my 61 qd 22 i just bought and didn't know were it went until I watched this video. Thanks for making it.
Great!! Glad it helped you out! Thanks for watching!
I have been subscribed for a while and I really like your videos. You inspired me, and I picked up a 59 Evinrude Golden Jubilee Sportwin 10 yesterday. I am really excited to fix it and get it back on the water. Thanks for all your great content.
Congratulations on your motor! They're great motors. Make sure to run it on 24:1 mix. Thank you for your sub and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! This is the next step on my '59 35 hp Johnson Super Seahorse rebuild and the info is a great help.
Robert Judkins You're welcome. I hooe this helps. I will say that the 59 Super Seahorse has a slightly different way of setting the sync of the throttle to the spark advance. The smaller motors from 3-18hp set just like this one. The 35s have a fixed throttle cam one the magneto plate. There is a small round plastic disc in the throttle arm on the carburetor. That disc has an offset hole for the throttle link and a slot for a screwdriver in the center or close to center. Set the throttle cam so the sync mark is in the center of the roller. Rotate the disc slowly with a screwdriver while watching the arm on the throttle shaft that passes thru the carb. Set the disc at the point where the throttle shaft JUST begins to open. Check the sync after setting the same way I described in this video. Quite easy to set these, just a slightly different way. Thanks for watching!
This is a great video. I am going to eval my 59 Jubilee tonight to see how it compares. Thank you!
Thank you and thanks for watching !
I knew to come to your videos to find what I needed to know, thanks.
Thank you. I'm glad you found what you needed to know. Thanks for watching!
dude you're amazing. i didn't know about the throttle stop in neutral. i thought it should be revving a bit higher than it wasd and couldn't figure it out.also didn't know about the link n sink timing setup. that's pretty important. thanks alot man!!!!!!!!just got a new to me 1961 14ft starcraft and a 1963 18hp fastwin. been trying to get her running good and you've helped alot!
Thank you! I'm glad i have been helpful. You got a nice rig there with the Starcraft 14 and a 63 Fastwin! I love those motors. The link n sync is pretty important to good run quality. You're welcome and thanks for watching!
I was (until this video) just like you. I couldn't figure out why the new to me motor wouldn't rev. It all makes sense now.
Thank you and God bless you sir!!!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great video man, I had no idea about the neutral throttle stop. Learn somthing new everyday.
Thank you and thanks for watching!🙂👍
Thank you for the quick response
You're welcome 👍
Great job ben! Very well explained. Im sharing this video with my friends. Dave
Dave Skoczynski Thanks Dave! I hope it is helpful.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 gggyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyuyyyyyyyyyyyyuyuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuyyyyuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
Very informational video, thank you very much.
Allen Shelton Thank you for watching! I'm always happy to hear that someone got some benefit from it.
Thank you, that was a fast response
You're welcome 👍
Thank you, have a nice day
You're welcome 👍
Excellent information.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Thanks again, your the man
You're welcome 👍
Good video. I like it when someone does a how to video when they know how to do things right way. There is to many how to videos out there done by people not knowing the right way to do things Thanks
Thank you very much Scott! I really appreciate the compliment. Thanks for watching!
great motor. and great vid!
Corben B Thank you and thanks for watching.
Nicely done !!
Ron Baker Thanks Ron!
Great video Old JohnnyRude. i was going to post a question regarding the tllier handle setting on the AOMCI but i found this video, well i scored on another 1957 Evinrude Fastwin 18 hp that i just couldn't pass up for $60 all original in excellent condition seller wanted $240 originally , i replaced all the norms coils, point, condensers, plugs, carb kit, impeller and lower unit seals. since it had been sitting for a very long time my question is when i put everything back i noticed that in the neutral position i can only move the handle from slow to start is this normal? looks like this one is set the same. i thought that in the neutral position i would be able to turn it all the way to the right to the shut off position but it stops at the slow position, any help is greatly appreciate it!!
I have taken out the long tiller arm shaft and it does measure 17". I will order the one I have seen on ebay. Thank you in advance.
That should solve your problem.👍
Love your videos because I end up with a lot of old outboards. I’ve learned a lot working on them, but I have a Johnson Seahorse 10 hp and I wondered if you knew the needle settings
Thank you. It's great to hear that feedback. As far as the carb needles go, you will hear lots of different opinions on needle settings. For myself, after a carburetor rebuild I typically start woth both needles set at 1.5 turns put from lightly seated. This is always a rich setting that needs to be tuned out, but it usually makes the first start pretty uneventful. I have a video on this channel where I demonstrate dialing in an OMC carburetor after a rebuild. Final settings depend on each motor and ambient conditions, but more often than not, they'll end up somewhere just under 1 turn out on the high speed and around 3/4 turn out on the low speed. I always prefer to start rich and lean them out for final tuning. Only adjust low speed after the high speed has been dialed in at WOT under load and the engine is up to operating temperature. Thanks for watching!
If I pull the throttle on the carb my outboard will accelerate and run fine. But if I use the twist throttle it bogs and dies. Do you know what my problem might be?
One more ? for you. The tiller handle on the motor I picked up does fit my 56. the brass gear teeth are pointed. I changed out both from the 62 to the 56, they do not line up properly. I also found on ebay a 17" tiller gear . will this solve my problem?
The aluminum tiller arm and grips are mechanically interchangeable from 1953 until they went to cable throttle control inside the tillers in the late 1970s (This applies to the small clamshell tillers). They changed from the pointed stamped brass gears to cast bronze ball gears in 1956. That is why the gear teeth do not match or line up. I would have to measure one of the tiller shafts with the gear to know if that is the correct one, but I believe that is correct. As long as that one is the correct length and has the bronze ball gear, it will fit and solve your problem. The 17" geared shaft is for the long tiller on a RD/Big Twin. The smaller tiller for the 5.5hp up through 22 c.i. 18hp-25hp uses a 12" long geared shaft.
rays fishin loved your video. I need a tiller handle for my 1956 30hp pull start evinrude. Do you know of a place I can get one.
Thank you! I bought my last Big Twin tiller on Ebay. They're not real plentiful, but they're out there and they do pop up now and then. A '56 should have the rounded tooth cast bronze ball gear. Just watch for the proper gear type. Thanks for watching!
since I PM you earlier I picked up a 1962 Evinrude elec. start. I am hoping I can switch out the tiller from the 62 to the 59. Is this feasible? Got motor very cheap.
Yes, the tillers are interchangeable. They handles are the same from 1953 until the 1970s. From 1956- on they used the cast bronze ball gears so the '62 and the '59 are mechanically the same. The electric start stuff is interchangeable also.
Any idea where I can get a new throttle rod and the plastic handle? Bought one of these motors. Mines a 10022 1961 model. Got it running but the white handle is snapped in half and the throttle rod back to the joint is super stiff.
I would check out ebay for a used tiller grip. The Johnson grips of the same era also fit if you don't mind a different designed grip. Have you taken the tiller arm apart and actually found that section of rod to be the part of the system that is stiff? That part is sometimes the culprit of a stiff throttle, but it is more often a combination of parts of the system from.the hinge back causing most of the stiffness. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
What a great help....I have the exact motor and it is NOT set right.....GREAT VID!
Mark Weaver Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found it helpful. These motors are awesome runners when they are set up properly.
Thanks for the great tips
I just bought a boat with this motor and that spring on that cam roller where does it attach to.
There is a brass colored ring that the magneto plate rotates on mounted to the top of the block under the flywheel. That ring has holes and slots in it. One end of the spring hooks through one of the holes in that plate. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for assistance on my 56 Fastwin project over the past year or so. Put on the lake, what a great running motor! Your videos on the ignition system for these engines was wonderful and results proved that. Another issue though. Having disassembled, cleaned, reassembled a few tiller handles over time, they only seem to go back together one way. Same with the gears running the throttle arm. This Fastwin is a low hour engine, the gears seemed fine, in spite of this, they "separate" before hitting the full throttle stop. In frustration, ordered new pinon gear, throttle control gear and throttle control bushing. Reassembled, no improvement, do you have any advice?
@@steveholm6948 You're welcome and I am always happy to hear when my videos are helpful to someone. I'm very glad you got your motor tuned up and running well on the water. For the tiller gear engagement, that can be corrected by shimming. Using round shims behind the tiller side gear to take up the excess backlash will help. The gears on the ends of the fixed shaft should also be shimmed to allow for full engagement. Use round shims (various thicknesses of washers) to set both end for minimum end play and sufficient gear engagement. I have had to do this with several motors I have worked on. Shimming those gears for proper fit is key. Sometimes they just don't fit correctly without them. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
We have the same could you help me I have same out board and the spring that on the magneto I need know where it gets connected
Which spring are you referring to? The one that returns the throttle cam follower? That one connects to one of the holes in the brass colored ring that retains the magneto plate to the block. Thanks for watching!
Hi, can you possibly give me some advice....what would cause the throttle to be stuck, no movement at all. It doesn't even try to budge. Thank you
If there is no movement at all in the tiller grip, the grip is frozen. If there is slight movement in the grip but nothing else, start working from the throttle shaft that is connected to the grip and work toward the motor. There are many places it can get bound up I have had to take some of them completely apart to get them freed up and working well again. The screw in the side of the grip near the top holds it onto the shaft. The grip must come off along with the indicator band to get the two screws out that hold that end of the tiller together. I hope this will help. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thank you for your reply, you were spot on. This morning I went out before getting your message and started at the tiller handle and removed the throttle grip. Looking inside with a flashlight I could see two cracks in the shaft housing. Looking up the engine model I found the grip assembly and there's a big difference between the grip control on my motor and the one I found thanks to Google. I believe someone forced this grip onto the tiller with a "This'll work" frame of mind. I ordered the replacement and will be here soon. After removing it from the tiller, everything seemed to work the way it should without binding up. Easy fix.
I also located a 50s model 35hp Evinrude for $200 I'm going to be picking up tomorrow. Even better than what I have now power wise and I think I inadvertently found a new hobby lol
Thank you for your advice and knowledge. Im sure I'll be bugging you more now that I'm getting another motor. Excellent videos. Thank you
I have a 1954 QD15 10hp. My throttle is pretty hard to turn and sometimes isn't consistent to where I want it. It's hard to turn and sometimes jumps or lowers speed as if it wasn't in the right throttle position. It's weird. I lube everything up that is connected to it that turns while turning it. Do you have any suggestions on what that could be? I seen other videos with the throttle looking so smooth.
The throttle control should be easy to turn and should operate smoothly. There are a number of things that may adversely affect the throttle operation of these motors. I know you said you have lubricated everything that turns while turning it. I'm just not sure if you have actually gotten to everything. There are a.lot of.places it can get sticky and often it is a result of the grease drying out or just lack of lubrication in some areas. Some areas that often get missed are the friction block inside the tiller grip, the plastic bushing at the bevel gear end of the gear shaft, and the support ring and retaining ring under the magneto plate. The 1955 and earlier motors use a stamped brass gear with pointed teeth. That gear is also more prone to damage than the later cast bronze ball gear. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 wow so I rechecked all the gears again. And to my surprise the guy who restored it had painted over the gears and over the grease. So I cleaned off the grease and noticed chunks of paint and old dried grease in the gears which wasn't allowing me to turn it smooth. Should I remove all the paint from the gears. I mean I think I should . Makes sense to me. Never seen painted gears before.
@@e9583 Well, the factory painted them too, but not over grease. It certainly will not hurt anything to clean the pain and old grease out of the gears. I usually take the entire system apart, clean it and lubricate it with a light application of waterproof grease. I like a smooth operating throttle control. 👍
Is the cam follower at the mark on the butterfly when the throttle handle is at the idle position? My follower is not even on the butterfly. I have a 74 6hp fisherman
The cam follower is at the mark on the cam at the exact time the butterfly just starts to open. Where the tiller grip is pointing on the indicator ring is of no consequence when setting link n sync. It will be in the slow /low idle range if all the gears are lined up correctly, but that indicator is just an idea anyway. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your reply ! From many comments I have seen the tiller handle indication is not accurate on many of these older motors.
@@garymccumbee2598 Yes, that is true for a number of reasons. It is a loose guideline at best in most cases.
I have a old 1963 evinrude fisherman I got it for free with a boat they said it's only running on one center what do you think it might be
I would bet you have lost spark to the cylinder that isn't firing. It is probably a bad coil, but may also be a bad condenser, dirty points, shirt in the plug wire, etc. A full tune up going through the ignition system and fuel system would almost certainly have it running like new again. Thanks for watching!
Great video I just bought one of these and the idle seems a bit off I will try to set everything according to this video and see how it goes. Mine has a shut off button, and I’m assuming that when the throttle on this model is all all the way on slow speed it should stay idle?
Congratulations on your new motor. To get the best idle out of these, the carburetor has to be clean, the points have to be clean and properly adjusted and spark plugs need to be in good shape. With that and following the video for the link n sync the needles can be adjusted for best running condition. These motors are equipped with a kill button and a stop screw to set the idle speed. With the secrew set low enough the engine will die from just retarding the spark far enough. The kill button allows the desired idle / trolling speed to be set with the stop screw. That disables the ability to kill the engine with the twist grip so that's where the button comes in. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude all ignition parts are new just need to clean the carb. I’m going to try your tips mentioned in the video. Or do you think I should tear it down and do a complete rebuild?
Thanks for speedy reply
@@stevenlopes960 If all the ignition parts are new I would give the carb a thorough cleaning and try to dial it in from there. If you can't get it to idle satisfactorily then clean and adjust the points and try it again.
Old JohnnyRude great thanks
I did notice that the the advance marking is a little off. Would it have that much of an influence on the idle?
Johnny do you have a website that you can share for getting parts for older motors. I have delt with Marine Engine.com, but there parts don't go back to 1956 so they tell me. need lower unit rebuild kit. Much appreciated if you can help.
I do not have a website and I don't sell parts. I buy many of mine from Marineengine.com as well. As for lower unit seals, which horsepower 1956 motor are you looking for seals for? The 15/18/20hp OMC motors all use the same seals.
Is that spark plug wire spring factory installed or just something you rigged up ?
I have a 1957 18hp Johnson so I'm wondering if mine is missing.
Those spring type terminals are factory. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thank you very for answering, but I don't think you understood my question. I'm wondering about the spring that pulls the wires downward to protect them from the spinning flywheel.
@@JoeBlowski I understand your question now, and yes that is also factory.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thank you again !
I just now looked and saw a little tab with a hole in it down in that area, so I'll shop for a spring.
I did have some damage on one of the spark plug wires from the armature plate rubbing on it and wondered why that happened and tried to aim the wires out of the armature plate better and even added black tape temporarily.
I was very surprised to see you mention the spring because I never seen one in decades of owning my pride and joy.
Now I consider that spring to be a very vital component of the ignition system, because it wouldn't have been very long before the insulation wore down enough to short the spark to ground if I didn't notice... which could ruin a fantastic day on the water, which will never happen to me (in that way :)... thanks to your awesome video.
I hope my contribution helps others prevent such an event.
how do you set points on this motor
I have a series of videos on tuning up a classic OMC that will demonstrate how I set the points. Thanks for watching!
I've got a broken throttle gear on my 1959 10 hp....how do I get the gear out? It is the gear slotted for the throttle vertical shaft.
Mark Weaver To remove the throttle gears, you first must remove the tiller grip, then the tiller handle. The pinch screw needs to be loosened in the horizontal throttle bevel gear and the shaft needs to be removed from that bevel gear. The screws that hold the vertical throttle arm to the side of the engine need to be removed. Once those are out the clip that holds the arm to the link on the mag plate needs to be removed so those can be separated. One separated lift the vertical throttle arm out of the slotted hole in the vertical bevel gear and high enough to allow you to lift the vertical bevel gear out of the hole it sits in. If that gets too confusing let me know and I can find time to make another video showing how to get that out on a similar motor. All the geared throttle OMC motors work essentially the same way.
Thank You! I tried to get the tiller handle shaft out of the gear, I thought the pinion on the end with screw through it was the only thing holding it....apparently NOT, when you fold the handle up it looks like the shaft running to the vertical gear should slide back out of the gear but no, I will follow you instructions....THANKS for the GREAT help!
Mark Weaver Yes, the gear at the tiller tilt joint will not allow the horizontal shaft to be withdrawn while the tiller handle is in place. To remove the tiller handle, remove the screw form the grip first. There is a spring and a friction block and sometimes a thin washer inside there. After the grip is off, the two acres that hold the halves together under the grip and the larger screw near the pivot must be removed. There are a couple of this brass washers in the pivot that will probably fall out when you take the handle apart and off. Watch for them and don't lose them.
THANKS so much O.J.R......great help with my golden jubilee 10!!
Mark Weaver You're welcome! Glad I could help out. These are wonderful outboards. Enjoy it! In case you are not aware of them the two biggest limitations of these motors are the small wrist pins in the powerhead and the 4-bolt (smaller size) gearcase. As long as the proper mix ratio (24:1) is used the engines last a very long time. More oil does not hurt the engine. I prefer to use a biodegradeable full synthetic TCW-3 2-stroke oil. It's better for the aquatic life and it lubricates better than the conventional oil. As for the gearcase, they hold up fine as long as no water gets in. If the seals leak and let water in, the 10hp will wreck the lower unit pretty quickly. Check the gear oil for water often and reseal if you find it is leaking. The '57 and earlier OMC 10s used the larger 5 bolt gearcase like the 15 and 18hp. They are a little heavier and a little slower through the water but very rugged with a 10hp powerhead on them. Just something to be aware of.
Thank you for all this good info, I have a question for you, what is the proper adjustment of the screw by the bevel gears on the tiller throttle linkage? Also part of this is the throttle/timing sync. What is supppsed to kerp the throttle butterfly open to idle position? When my cam follower get below tge sync line on the cam the rpms just keep going down and down until it just stops. It will idle fine at fairly low speeds, but it seems to ve missing a way of keeping the throttle plate from closing off all air. Btw the casting where my screw goes is broken, I have to use a hose clamp around the vert. Bevel gear as a stop, but same principal.
Thx in advance for any info!
Btw check out my video of it if you like.
The screw by the bevel gears for the throttle linkage (assuming you are referring to the horizontal screw that is in the gear that the vertical throttle control arm fit into) is to set the desired idle / trolling speed. That speed is actually set by the timing and is running completely on the low speed circuit of the carburetor. The butterfly is completely closed at this time and the air that passes thru the carb throat is controlled by the cutout in the throttle plate by the tiny holes in the top of the carb bore. The fuel for the low speed circuit passes thru these holes into flow of air thru that cutout. The butterfly shoukd not be open at all at idle speed. It shoukd be fully closed at the moment the sync line on the throttle cam is in the center of the roller. From there the timing slows the RPMs until it reaches the throttle stop or shuts the engine off. The early 50s motors did not have this stop screw at all. They added the shop screw when they added the kill button in 1958. If your motor is 1957 or older there should not be a stop screw and the engine is stopped by regarding the spark advance until it dies. Your motor seems to run and idle pretty well. I don't quite understand the reason for the hose clamp you are talking about.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 well it started out in an effort to hold some shims in between the ears of the vertical shaft that is badly worn, this takes slop out of the throttle, but when I saw your screw and that my casting has an unpainted jagged edge I assumed mine had been broken off. It is an early model, I forget what year but 56 sounds right. Anyway I guess this is just how it works, I was going to ask if you set the idle screw how do you shut it off 😁 now I know and will rotate the hose clamp so it doesn't stop the throttle. So anyway, I still am not sure my idle circuit is working properly though as it won't stay running much below the sync mark on the cam. Also I need to adjust or clean the friction device in the handle, if you let go it tuns to the off position.
Thanks again for the info, I love bringing back those things others have given up on, and I think a lot of the old stuff was better to begin with
integr8er66 I fully understand the reason for the hose clamp now. The best way to remove the slop in that joint is to remove the vertical throttle arm and push out the plastic rod with the "keys" on the ends from the vertical rod. Make a new piece from 3/8" nylon rod and cut the "keys" wider so they fit the worn slot in the gear snugly. You may have to file the gear slots out some so the slot sides are parallel again. You can also use a piece of 3/8" rigid copper tubing and flatten the ends enough to fit the worn slot snugly. Either way will get rid of the slop in this joint.
It is possible that your lower bevel gear was swapped at some point with a later one and that stop screw boss was broken off of it? That kind of thing is pretty common. Lots of interchangeability in the classic OMC motors.
There are a number of things that affect how these engines idle. The low speed carb circuit must be completely clean. The needle packing must be snug and in good condition. The low speed needle and needle seat in the carb body need to be in good condition. The ignition system must be in good shape and properly timed. The timing tool is the best way to set the points. A 0.020" feeler gage can give satisfactory results if one is very careful setting the points at the high spot on the points cam. The points opening at the correct time as the magnet passes the coils gets the best spark. The two sets of points set to open exactly 180 degrees apart gives the smoothest idle. The coil heels should be set to align exactly with the machined part of the armature plate where the coils mount. Err very slightly to inside those surfaces if you are not using the coil setting ring to avoid the laminations rubbing the magnet inside the flywheel. Air leaks at the crankshaft, crankcase seam, and the throttle shaft on the carburetor all contribute in their own ways to poor idle quality.
If the engine slows to a stop when you let go of the tiller grip the flywheel may be dragging on the coil laminations. Also, the friction block inside the tiller grip may be missing. If that is missing, the rotation of the flywheel magnet will have a tendency to draw the armature plate in the direction that retards the spark timing. There is a spring that pushes the friction block into the conical surface inside the grip. this spring may also be missing. Many times these parts are removed if the motor is ever used with remote controls. Sometimes they get lost and do not find their way back into the motor when the control cables are removed. There is a good chance that stuff is gone if your motor is doing this and the coils are not rubbing.
I do very much enjoy bringing back to life these old motors that others have given up on. I get a lot of enjoyment out of putting them back on a boat and running them too. New stuff is so complicated and so dependent on so many different things (many of which are electronic) working properly together to function. These classics are so much simpler and have so little to fail, they just work and keep on working.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 wow, that is a lot of information in one spot! You are a fantastic resource to have thank you for your time putting that together! I'll post a video when I take her out. I just ordered packing for the needles, a lower seal kit and impeller for it, J have already replaced the coils and points, I did set the points with a feeler gage, but I don't remember how I set the coil, but I don't think its dragging. I hope I don't have to put a crank seal in, that sounds like its pretty deep inside.
@@integr8er66 Thank you and you're welcome.☺ Looking forward to seeing the video of your motor on the water. If yours is a 56, it may have the lipseal type crank seals that are rather prone to failure. There is a puller made for those or they can be carefully drilled and pulled out with screws. You can make a driver out of a piece of pipe to put the new seals back in. Of course the powerhead has to come off to get to the lower seal. The upper seal is right under the magneto. With the proper puller it is an easy job.
Need help with slack inner gears tiller handle 1975 evinrud 15 please thank you
Inside the cowl or at the pivot in the handle?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 inside the cowl
Not sure how it comes apart
@@roberttujaguejr661 OK. I'll have to take a closer look at mine to see if there is anything unique about it. I'll try to have a look tonight.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thank you very much i will to take a pic when i can i am handicapped so it will take me a little time
These old 50s motors were so well built. They started to go downhill in the 60s in my opinion. At first it was just cosmetic.
Greg Offenback Yes they are very well built. It seems like some things did start to decline by the end of the 60s. These motors are built for maintainability. That definitely started to fall off with some of the later designs.
Hi how can I adjust the throttle. At full throttle it doesn’t get enough rpms?
Mine stops about half way
Kyler Carson Is the throttle stop arm that holds the shift lever in position moving properly? In neutral, it limits the throttle to start position so it doesn't over rev with no load. When you shift into forward gear, the top.part of that bar should move away from the flywheel far enough to allow the magneto plate to fully advance.
Old JohnnyRude I’ll look at it in the morn and let you know. Thanks
Old JohnnyRude ok so the shifter bar works properly when it is in drive the throttle only moves to the point where it would get governed in reverse. It’s like the throttle gear doesn’t have enough teeth to move it all the way to the max throttle.
Kyler Carson It's possible that the throttle gear teeth have skipped or got moved sometime if the tiller has been apart. I'll see if I can get a quick video of the throttle gears working properly so you can compare tomorrow. In either case, if the gears are off, the tiller has to come apart to fix it. It isn't too difficult though.
1956 30hp evinrude pull start
The gearcase seals will be the same for a 1959 35hp. That should be included in Marineengine.com's website.
I'm having trouble adjusting my carb on my 10 horse jonson
What part of adjusting are you having trouble with? Cannot get the needles to turn? Cannot get the carb dialed in to make the engine run correctly?
It starts up and will run most of the way across the lake and then will almost die and pick back up and will keep doing this the hole time it's running
@@travissnyder5123 OK. A few other questions to get me up to speed. Is this a pressure tank or a single line suction tank with a fuel pump? Have you rebuilt the carburetor since you have owned the motor? Have you checked the fuel system for leaks?
Single line have not rebilt no leaks but it does spit gas out the front of the carb olny when it's trying to die out
@@travissnyder5123 I would rebuild the carburetor with a new OEM carb repair kit. That will get you a new float valve needle and seat, new gaskets and new packing. I would replace the fuel lines while the carburetor is off for a rebuild. Will gas come out of the front of the carb if you "over-prime" the carb with the bulb? Spitting gas out the front of the carb often indicates the float valve is not sealing and shutting off flow. The other thing that can cause this is a blocked or partially blocked bowl vent. There are two vent holes in the body of the carburetor that allows atmospheric pressure into the bowl. If either of them is blocked it can cause the fule level to rise above the float and come out of the carb throat while the engine is starving for fuel. Before rebuilding the carb I would try a couple things though. Run the motor on the boat again. When it starts to die out, try pumping the primer bulb to see if the fuel supply is starving at the carb from the tank. If the pumping the carb bowl with the bulb makes it take off again your main issue may not be with the carburetor. You may have a leaking O-ring in the fuel line that is allowing it to draw air into the line. You may also have a failing fuel pump.
HOW ABOUT MAKING AN EARLY 50,S JOHNSON VIDEO ON TIMING AND CARB SET FOR LIKE A 10 HP 53 SEAHORSE THEIR ARE LOTS OF LATE 50,S BUT NO EARLY 50,S MODELS THANKS
I'll make note that you would like to see the timing and carb adjustments for an early QD. I'll try to make a video next time I work on one. I have a couple of them to work on. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 AWESOME
I'll have to take a look at my 63 10 horse Johnson. But it runs like a top so I shouldn't worry about it
It never hurts to look, but if you're happy with how it runs its probably fine. This shows how itnis supposed to function when things are set up properly. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I am curious where those screws are. Next time I I see that motor I will be out of cell range. Thank God
@@danmanthe9335 Which screws? The ones for the throttle cam?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 for the magneto plate.
what is the proper octane to oil mix for 1956 30hp evinrude?
A 1956 OMC 30hp is a 24:1 gasoline to oil mix ratio. Any gasoline 87 octane or higher is fine. Try to stick with ethanol free gasoline to prevent any issues with the rubber parts and the fuel system. Thanks for watching!