Steam Generator Repair (Kohler K9, 1659) - error 5
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- A shorter version of this video can be found here:
• Steam Generator Repair...
Disclaimer: This video is for educational purposes only and I hereby release myself from ANY liability for any damages you may incur by attempting any of these procedures. If you are not comfortable working with high voltage and/or steam, plumbing, soldering, then please seek professional help. This clearly requires specific tools and proper personal protective equipment, including N95 for fiberglass insulation install. Improper procedures could lead to injury and/or death from several dangerous aspect including, but not limited to, high voltage, pressure, steam burns, fires from improper soldering.
Update: The original reason for taking this apart was err5. After complete disassembly, I noted at least 3 main problems: 1. Water leaking on the insulation 2. Corrosion around Float switch and noted most at the thread (most likely lead to the leak), 3. Intermittent conductivity test for the float switch. This video shows an overall cleaning, fixing the thread, and replacing the float switch. I was never really convinced that the old float switch (which still showed erratic conductivity ranging from ~8 to 100 Ohms would trigger err5 - apparently now I know that's because there was another issue that I did not know about until a couple of weeks after I put it all back together). I ran this steam unit for a couple of weeks every other day, and was shocked to see err5 come back on again (AGH!!). So it turns out that I never really fixed the original reason for this err, but it at least allowed me to note the leak/corrosion. I did not want to have to take this whole thing apart again which would require sweating the copper steam pipes. Having a mental image of the circuitry in this, and having just enough room for my hand to fit between the closet wall the righthand side of this unit, I took the right side panel off (two screws), and then decided to temporarily loop (short) J4 and J5 (effectively eliminating the two safety switches). I felt comfortable doing so since I knew the water inlet is ok and water is indeed in the unit. Steam proceeded to flow without any errors. Using flashlight, mirror, and dexterity, I cut the marriage of the float switch wire from the thermal switch wire (as they were connected in series), and then proceeded to use the conductivity test them both independently as steam was flowing. I noted that the float switch (which I had just replaced) maintained conductivity at 2 Ohms, while the thermal switch (which I did not bother replacing since I did not suspect it was faulty - as it showed conductivity - albeit at room temperature but not at operating temp), began to lose conductivity flickering between a few ohms to Mega ohms within seconds while steam was flowing, but would regain conductivity once steam took a break. It appears as if it only shows a closed loop at low temps but not at steam temperatures. For me to replace it would mean taking the whole unit apart again (and possibly worrying about further leaks). So I decided that retaining just one safety (i.e. float switch) ought to be sufficient (considering there is a third level safety in the fuse box). So I reconnected the float switch across J4 and J5 (all via the confined space between the wall and the right panel). It has been working beautifully, since, with no more err5. The great news is that I was able to check for water leaks by simply removing the side panel and using the mirror and flash light (and feeling around). Not a single drop of water leaking anywhere! I will be able to check for leaks (in under 5 minutes) every 3 months or so.
This is my first comment ever on you tube, you did great. Thanks for sharing.
SO nice of you - thanks! and Welcome to commenting!
good call on installing the shutoff valve. since there isn't a drain pan, you may want to turn the water off to the unit between uses just to be safe. mine developed a slow leak through the solenoid and instead of overflowing into the shower it went through the pressure relief and flooded the place
Thanks. That's unfortunate what happened in your case. I am so baffled that builders would not opt to add one when they install just to save $5 or so, but leave home owners at high risk to potentially costly repairs due to floods etc.
The steam head inside the shower can be rotated to align the oil reservoir on top. Probably just caulk holding it to the wall.
I think you had the same installer as what I inherited. No shutoff valve, dimple not aligned, poor head assembly, and even putting the control pad thermostat on the OUTSIDE of the shower. That's first rate incompetence!
And just when I thought it could not have been worse, I find out that I am wrong! Wow thermostat on the OUTSIDE!??
Excellent video Nasri. My issue is no leaking inside unit, ERR 5 comes in about 10 seconds of turning on power button. I disconnected the water supply and let it run into a bucket to make sure i had good clean flow of water. I put a wire down into the inlet as far as it would go and nothing blocking it. It sounds like my float is telling the system there is no water even though there is. Is there any other device that would cut off the water from going into the tank?
You can easily check if your float switch is function properly. If you have a multimeter, you can check for continuity (when you have the unit disconnected from pipes and electric) by flipping the unit upside down (the level of the float switch "close" mimicking the float induced by water. If you get continuity with multimeter, then the float switch is ok. Keep in mind that in the end, one of my issues was not only the float switch and the leak, but also that the thermal switch was busted. I eventually shorted the thermal switch - it has been working fine ever since!
@@nesnas I was able to fill my tank through the drain. My switch is good when there’s water in the tank. The system works fine and it produces steam until it shuts off because no water is getting into refill the tank.
@@__Just_A_Guy__ seems like an issue with the water inlet ?
Another awesome video. Thank you. Can you tell me, what is the brand of the +500 F threat paste you used? Thanks again.
I want to try to fix mine but I am scared to try it...
Thanks for making the video. So was your conclusion on error 5 due to faulty float which was fixed with a new float? Besides fixing threads and maybe shortening the float wire it seems like the new float switch was the biggest change.
I’m getting error 5 now which I was getting years ago but back then I was able to fix it by replacing the heavily corroded heating coils…besides vinegar bath to clean out minerals. Now that error 5 has been happening periodically I assumed that the coils were corroded again but when I opened it up both heating coils looked like new and even still replacing them did not fix my error 5.
Thankfully my plumber connected mine with all threaded pipes and water shutoff so I can disconnect and work on it pretty easily. Guess I’m ready to start replacing more parts to see what works.
Thank you for your comments Tim. Actually, even though the float switch could have resulted in error 5, after a month the error came back and I noticed that the thermal switch (which is connected with the float switch in series) was causing this error. I tested it when the unit was apart (and cold) and it was a closed loop (circuit). However, the only way to test it in operation is to temporarily short circuit the float switch and thermal switch (which was the only two that could trigger error 5), and then run the unit with the electrical panel open (but be super careful - you're talk 240 V) Test the Float switch and thermal switch with a conductivity test with your multimeter. What I noticed was that the float switch kept conductivity (at 3-5 OHMS), whereas the thermal switch started flickering between closed loop and 1 Mega Ohm (open circuit). This only happened when it was hot. So you have two choices: replace the thermal switch - the rod directly above the heating coils, or rely on the float switch - which is what I ended up doing. If the coils end up drawing too much current, it will trip the 50 A circuit breaker - so in some regard; that a second line defense. I have been using it for the past 7-8
months with no issues at all!
I just added the update extracted from my short video listed above! My reply below also summarizes my update. But Please read the update I have pinned above. It will explain things a lot clearer. If your unit runs for a few minutes and shuts off once steam starts to flow, then more than likely you have a faulty thermal switch.
@@nesnas thanks so much for the explanation. Mine normally throws error 5 after it has run for a while but it's happening more and more quickly over time to the point that it is not enough time. If I'm understanding you correctly, you ended up bypassing the Thermal switch altogether which has eliminated the faulty short circuit it was created and that fixed it for you. I just purchased a Thermal Fuse Kit ($33.30) so I will give that a try. I also purchased Fast Response Thermostat Kit ($7.80) and a float assembly kit ($157.36) just to have them in case they are ever needed.
Also just an FYI on maintenance... our unit was installed with a small copper pipe from the drainage valve down into the drain pan. I was able to rotate that pipe so that it sticks straight up and is taller than the unit itself. I then found a very small funnel in the kitchen that fits right on the pipe. With this I'm able to open the drain valve and pour white vinegar into the funnel which goes in the steam chamber. After vinegar is added I close the drainage valve and let sit normally over night. The next day I start with a power clean which purges all the vinegar out before steaming. I assumed that was working pretty well but now that I've looked inside I know it works well because the chamber was almost completely mineral free after over two years. That was a big deal because where we live has a lot of mineral in the water which is constantly clogging faucet gaskets etc.
@@RealFrankyDog From your reply: "Mine normally throws error 5 after it has run for a while but it's happening more and more quickly over time to the point that it is not enough time."
This is exactly what was happening in my case as well. I believe this is a symptom of the thermal switch (and not the float switch). And yes you understood correctly: I eventually bypassed the the thermal switch (the old one is still threaded in the unit but not electrically connected to anything). I would have replaced it, if I had the whole unit out of the closet and apart again. But since I had to work in the tight corner by just removing the side panel, I just diagnosed that the issue was the thermal switch (by initially by passing both thermal and float switch - while running the unit); then I reconnected the float switch alone. The idea is that if the water flow is ever interrupted, the float switch alone will stop unit and prevent overheating. So far no issues!
@@nesnas thanks for the clarification. After getting another quick error 5 I decided just to try bypassing the thermal switch by cutting the wire and then connecting the ends together to see if that would work for me too. Unfortunately I ended up getting another error 5 pretty quick again. But then this morning for some reason it ran for a long time without throwing the error to the point where I turned it off because I was done.
If I'm understanding you correctly you are saying that you can also bypass the float switch and the unit will still operate? I was assuming the float switch itself is used within the operation for the unit to regulate how much water is released into the chamber. But if that is not the case then I could see how it could also be bypassed. I have the parts on way but it doesn't hurt to trouble shoot in order to better help understand what my problem is.
Not sure if you are on FB but a while back I created a group for Kohler Steamer Owners because there isn't a lot of information available from other owners online. If someone is searching FB for answers they will hopefully find the group and I can be of some help like your video has done. facebook.com/groups/456707758910197