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Nasri Nesnas
Registrace 17. 07. 2006
Antenna Grommet Replacement BMW E36 M3
The Antenna Grommet on BMW E36 dries up and crack about every 7 - 8 years. You certainly need to replace it to avoid rain getting into your trunk. It is not as trivial as simply threading a new on. But once you can access the device from the trunk, you can simply lower the antenna unit, allowing the new grommet to thread comfortably, and then you can push the antenna unit back up. Here is the video. Sorry it is not the greatest since I had to use one hand to hold the phone to record.
zhlédnutí: 788
Video
Measuring parasitic draw and current to dash cams using: 1. In-series multimeter 2. Clamp meter; E36
zhlédnutí 172Před rokem
This video has two parts. The first one shows how to measure resting current draw using a multimeter connected in series as well as comparing two dash cams current draw during operation and parking modes. The second part shows how to make similar measurements without the need to disconnect the battery using two different clamp meters. It also shows how to measure the cranking amps as well. A co...
Repairing the clips of the rear left door speaker insert trim panel E36 convertible BMW
zhlédnutí 871Před 2 lety
This video shares one way to repair the broken brittle clips of the insert trim panel of the rear door on a 1999 E36 M3 convertible. Although the insert has a part number (51438119089), you can only order it used on eBay (if you are lucky to find one that has the same color). DISCLAIMER: This video is for educational and entertainment purposes only. The author is NOT liable for any injury and/o...
Dash Cam Redtiger F7N Hardwiring to E36 BMW M3 and Easy Rear Cam install (Shorter)
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 2 lety
This is the short video of the previous one I uploaded a few weeks ago. For those who are anxious about having to remove panels in the trunk and/or drilling around their license plate to install the rear cam, this video offers an alternative that gives you (in my opinion) an even better image of the rear. DISCLAIMER: This video is for educational purposes only and I hereby release myself from A...
Two Jacks up the car - easy way to jack up two tires at once E36 BMW M3
zhlédnutí 3,8KPřed 2 lety
NOTE: Never Jack up the car on soft ground - grass/mud/sand. Never Jack up the car on an incline (even if slightly not leveled). Make sure the vehicle is on perfectly level and solid dry ground. Place the floor jack ONLY under the jack support pads according to your owner's manual. Never crawl under a vehicle that is lifted solely by (a) floor jack(s) - regardless of how many you use. DO NOT as...
Windshield Cowl Replacement E36 BMW M3 Convertible
zhlédnutí 3,4KPřed 2 lety
This video describes the replacement of the plastic/rubber edged cowl on the E36 BMW M3 Convertible. Not a particularly challenging task, but when the rubber edge lacing the windshield starts to crack (from sun damage and repeated wet/dry cycles), it is time to change it to avoid unnecessary water seepage under the hood and near the windshield wiper motor assembly. The part is rather affordable...
E36 Power steering top leak repair
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 2 lety
I have constantly noticed power steering fluid leaking from underneath my car - I wipe it clean and in a week or so the leaking fluid returns. At first it was difficult to pinpoint the exact location of the leak, but after doing short drives I noticed the leak to be from the top of the power steering around the cap. There is an O ring, and it is quite easy to buy (link below). You can also buy ...
Instrument cluster LCD pixel repair (sequel to "Return of the Pixels;" part 4) e36 m3
zhlédnutí 404Před 3 lety
This is the last video on this topic (quite certain now!) While I thought I found the faulty pin solder (pin #22 in minute 8:50 of this video): czcams.com/video/OncJf8FIFqw/video.html It turns out, that it was indeed the most damaged solder (but not the only one), hence, 95% of time I could see all pixels fine. But I am not about 95% perfection, I aim for 100%. So I opened this instrument clust...
How to shuck oysters - quick and easy
zhlédnutí 528Před 3 lety
This is a quick video to show you one easy way to shuck oysters quickly. Not all oysters are the same. Some are more challenging to shuck than others but in general this technique works for most, if not all. Please use protective gloves (against sharp objects). While an oyster shuckers appears, and is indeed, blunt, the pressure needed would turn it into a powerful tool if it were to slip into ...
Microfilter (Cabin Filter) Replacement e36 BMW without removing glovebox compartment
zhlédnutí 4,8KPřed 3 lety
Everyone who owns an e36 would know that replacing the microfilter (aka cabin filter) is a literal pain in the neck (and back!) I knew it was time (way overdue) and when I did this job nearly 10 years ago I did not find the need to remove the glove compartment. Several videos/instructions (even the one that come with the new microfilter) describe the need to remove the glove compartment. It is ...
The Return of the Pixels: Third installment in e36 instrument cluster LCD repair trilogy (Abridged)
zhlédnutí 328Před 3 lety
Electrical issues are amongst the hardest to diagnose and repair - most certainly when intermittent. It took 4 tries (correction: now 6 tries) for me to finally repair the intermittently fading pixels of my e36 LCD odometer screen. Here is the addendum to this video (attempts 5 and 6 combined): czcams.com/video/VIeLri_AI7M/video.html This is a shorter video (less than half the length of the pre...
The Return of the Pixels: The third installment in the e36 instrument cluster LCD repair trilogy
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 3 lety
A 10-minute shorter version of this video can be found here (honestly, it is even better): czcams.com/video/OncJf8FIFqw/video.html Please make sure you see this additional video (before you begin working on your cluster): czcams.com/video/VIeLri_AI7M/video.html Electrical issues are amongst the hardest to diagnose and repair - most certainly when intermittent. It took 4 tries for me to finally ...
Instrument cluster intermittent LCD screen repair BMW e36 M3 (Part 2)
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 3 lety
PLEASE NOTE: There are two more videos after this. I highly recommend watching them first before you attempt working on yours. Hind sight is 20/20! (More than likely, the soldering is the issue and LCD screen is much less likely). czcams.com/video/OncJf8FIFqw/video.html czcams.com/video/VIeLri_AI7M/video.html This is the second part of the first video (see link below) on repairing the LCD inter...
Instrument cluster intermittent LCD screen repair BMW e36 M3
zhlédnutí 3,3KPřed 3 lety
PLEASE NOTE: There are three more videos after this. I highly recommend, at the very least, to watch the last two of the three - shown directly below; before you begin working. Hind sight is 20/20! (More than likely, the soldering is the issue and LCD screen is much less likely). PLEASE NOTE: The airbag requires a Torx 30 and NOT Torx 27 (as mentioned at 3:13). czcams.com/video/OncJf8FIFqw/vide...
Intermittent odometer display e36
zhlédnutí 485Před 3 lety
This is another video in hopes to identify whether the problem is cold soldering of the lcd display or an lcd display that is not seated tightly enough!
Intermittent instrument cluster dash light flickering e36 BMW
zhlédnutí 840Před 3 lety
Intermittent instrument cluster dash light flickering e36 BMW
Ortega Telescope Dedication - April 2008
zhlédnutí 151Před 3 lety
Ortega Telescope Dedication - April 2008
F.W. Olin Physical Sciences Building Magical Dedication
zhlédnutí 110Před 3 lety
F.W. Olin Physical Sciences Building Magical Dedication
Steam Generator Repair - brief highlights (K9 Kohler; Model 1659)
zhlédnutí 28KPřed 3 lety
Steam Generator Repair - brief highlights (K9 Kohler; Model 1659)
Steam Generator Repair (Kohler K9, 1659) - error 5
zhlédnutí 14KPřed 3 lety
Steam Generator Repair (Kohler K9, 1659) - error 5
e36 BMW convertible top tensioner strap repair
zhlédnutí 33KPřed 4 lety
e36 BMW convertible top tensioner strap repair
COVID in the Wind - A coronavirus Parody Song (Sir Elton John's Candle in the Wind)
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 4 lety
COVID in the Wind - A coronavirus Parody Song (Sir Elton John's Candle in the Wind)
This isn't correct. Assuming whoever is reading this was able to remove the panel which is fairly easy, the first thing you should do is unscrew the antenna and set it aside. Next, instead of loosening the little screw on the antenna mechanism, it's easier to remove the larger black nut that holds the antenna bracket to the body of the car. You do not need to remove the smaller screw at all. Set the antenna mechanism aside. Next, lube the grommet as he shows, put it in the hole in the appropriate direction(taller side of the grommet towards the outside of the car, smaller side towards the trunk lid) and then from inside the trunk, grab the grommet with a pair of needle nose pliers, starting on the side that's furthest from the trunk opening. It will sort of pop in even if it doesn't look like it will. Hold it in place and then grab the other side of the grommet from inside the trunk with the pliers and pull that and it will pop all in place. Next, reinstall the antenna mechanism without the antenna screwed into it. You have to push The black shiny knob on the end up into the grommet until it pops in and the knob is sitting on top of the grommet. If it doesn't pop in the antenna won't screw back into it properly. Once it's popped in reattach the bracket with the nut. Note, that when you removed this nut there was also a cable holder that you have to reattach with so it doesn't flop around and it may be a ground wire. This is a circular washer looking thing with a wire attached to it. First you put the bracket on to the bolt, then the wire holder, then screw the nut back on. The last thing you do is screw the antenna back into the antenna mechanism. The way this person installed it, you will not be able to unscrew the antenna.
Do you have repair?
Hi
good job. Did you do the 2 front tension straps too? at the very front, they help the top bow out, instead of in when opening the top.
I’ve never seen a more difficult way to replace this grommet . If you unscrew the top of the Aerial Mast it makes this task 100% Easier . Apart from that you made a decent attempt .
You're right - I could have unscrewed the aerial first - but I would still have to lower its base and thread it from the bottom. It would have made it a bit easier but this was not too bad!
these units only cost around 300$... easier to replace it and will last longer than this repair
I am not sure where you found them for $300 - The lowest I found 3 years ago was for $4,,000! Not to jinx it, mine is still working as new!
Any suggestions what happen I turn on switch then termostat also on generator make one click noise…-and spark Not working
the information you're providing is not enough for me to make a good guess about what is likely happening. You may have a short, or water leak etc.
Excellent video Nasri. My issue is no leaking inside unit, ERR 5 comes in about 10 seconds of turning on power button. I disconnected the water supply and let it run into a bucket to make sure i had good clean flow of water. I put a wire down into the inlet as far as it would go and nothing blocking it. It sounds like my float is telling the system there is no water even though there is. Is there any other device that would cut off the water from going into the tank?
You can easily check if your float switch is function properly. If you have a multimeter, you can check for continuity (when you have the unit disconnected from pipes and electric) by flipping the unit upside down (the level of the float switch "close" mimicking the float induced by water. If you get continuity with multimeter, then the float switch is ok. Keep in mind that in the end, one of my issues was not only the float switch and the leak, but also that the thermal switch was busted. I eventually shorted the thermal switch - it has been working fine ever since!
@@nesnas I was able to fill my tank through the drain. My switch is good when there’s water in the tank. The system works fine and it produces steam until it shuts off because no water is getting into refill the tank.
@@__Just_A_Guy__ seems like an issue with the water inlet ?
Amazing video ❤ 🎉
Ignition switch I have 318ti 1997
what if you need to take a wheel off, how would you do it? I.e control arms
I think the hood should be in service position to avoid the trouble with removing and installing the cowl. Thanks for the video!
What position is service position?
Great job.
Thank you !!
This... this is how "not" to install LMFAO laziness 100%
volume is too low
The steam head inside the shower can be rotated to align the oil reservoir on top. Probably just caulk holding it to the wall.
Worked i did it in about an hour Thanks
Thank you for sharing!
I think the repetitive use of the odometer reset button allowed reg board to flex and solder joint to crack. Luckily it is not a broken traces but a solder reflow.
Thanks. I agree. That's how I first noticed the issue since when I used to press the reset button and the pixels would flicker in and out. But honestly the factory soldering job was in my humble opinion sloppy - likely a semi automated process with minimal flux/solder. I was generous with flux/solder and made sure I don't have to do the job again (I followed this up with another video after this in which I soldered all 45 pins). It has been perfect since (fingers crossed)!
my redtiger dash cam hardwire kit is turning off once the engine drops below 12v and wont turn the camera back on, its been a total nightmare
Internal battery is dead and powers off and does not recharge. Thus preventing any operations once the car power is removed to convert to 5V .
Thanks for this, my thermasol was busted and just shooting out water instead of steam. After watching this I’ve come to the conclusion that I will be calling a handy man and will just shell out the $400🥳
Thanks for making this video, very informative.
Mine doesn't work at all its pitch dark, do you think I need a new one? can you buy them knew still ? is there a way to test them with a 12 volt battery outside the car on a bench?
Make sure to check all the bulbs. It is hard for me to predict why your clusters is all dark. There are schematics of this harness that show where the 12 V leads go in and you can simply connect it to power outside the cars. Others have done that before.
Sir share u r numbers
next video... 4 jacks ;)
That wiring job is a total BODGE !
The coating can be soften for removal with IPA. Less need for the metal blade and board damage. I think the display can have several problems One is bulb failure one is Zebra strip connection and the other solder connection. The solder connection seems to be related to the pressing of the odometer reset button.
Thanks for your feedback. I agree and the solder connection, from what I see from others, seems to be the most common issue (possibly from constant pressing of the reset button). The first time I noticed this was when I pressed the button the pixels would flicker in/out.
Sloppy install
Rinse?!! Drain?!! Ridiculous!
How to build fiber stame
You would have made life so much easier by just taking the glovebox out 🤦🏻♂️but that’s still better than most good try !
You seem pretty knowledgeable about this product, at 1:10 you got these 5 nuts with a gasket behind it; mine seems to be leaking; without having done any research myself yet, would you be able to point me in the direction of where I could get a gasket like that? Or what type I should be looking for as a DIY?🤔
Any rubber gasket would do - I suggest you measure the thickness of your old one (most likely 1/8"). Here is an example: a.co/d/7pMNjbw Then you would need to precisely cut a similar opening to your old gasket.
@@nesnas thanks 🙏🏻 appreciate the help
Funny enough my thermasol looks almost identical, like 1:1 to this 🤔 gave me a good insight abt how it looks like on the inside 😄👍🏻
I need to do this, but had a very difficult time following this! The strings on mine are loose too-but couldn’t follow that either- My top is shedding too! I’ll keep trying though- At least there’s a fix- Thank you!
Put Diolectric grease in the connector and send it 😎👍
Most overkill setup ive seen in my life
No such thing as too much safety. Last guy to get injured or killed! I'd call that, smart.
Thank you so much for sharing!
Oem ones in uk cost over 300£.Insane. Every diy is worth to try.
Very nice review but i dont get that parking mode options only even after hard wiring the redtiger Can u help me pls
Make sure you use the Redtiger F7N hardwire kit and test it before you install it. Make sure you also have the correct microSD that has been formatted in the cam. Turn off the cam and turn it back on this will engage the parking mode (if install correctly). The first time I installed, it also did not engage the parking mode until I turn it off and then on.
FIND WHERE METAL IS CLOSE TO MOULDING PANEL...DRILL 3 SMALL HOLES & USE BLACK HEAD METAL SCREWS...LESS HASTLE AND REMOVABLE WAY EASIER...10 MIN JOB ...(I am a retired auto glass Master Tech...done a lot of these...clips are to numerous to keep in stock...you buy 2,000 different clips for all models...stock is left over and costly...screws look good & aren't noticed...🕊👈)
Sorry I misspelled "watching" at the end:) I am not going to re-upload a new video just for that typo... "wathcing" is the new "watching"
Great video. Thanks for shooting it. I’ll give it a try!
Thank you so much ! Good luck with it.
Another awesome video. Thank you. Can you tell me, what is the brand of the +500 F threat paste you used? Thanks again.
AWESOME video. I have the same unit, but its dripping water out of the steam head inside the shower, nonstop for the past few days. I'm thinking its the purge solenoid or float valve.....not sure. There are NO other issues, leaks anywhere else, thank God. Just that constant drip in the shower from the steam head. Can you tell me where you bought that float switch from/part number? Maybe they sell the purge solenoid that opens the steam to the shower head, or replace the float valve too. Any input that would be great.
Thank you for supporting words. I bought the float switch (this is the safety plastic switch with the electrical contact) from amazon: www.amazon.com/dp/B009094IPA?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_BR51WCYSP2S0FFVNJAS1 You can also find parts at Grainger (if you have a local store near you or online). It seems like you have a problem with the water inlet float valve. When you have the unit apart, you can test it by lifting the ballcock (big metal floater) and the water should stop flowing in. If it does not (or if it leaks a bit), then that would explain why you are getting water into your shower through the steam head. The water level in the unit must be well below the steam pipe outlet, but if water keeps flowing in, then it will start spitting into the shower. Please note that if the unit is not run for several weeks, sometime water condenses into the cooling steam lines, and when you start the unit again, the heat and pressure build up will eject this water with gargling sounds into the shower before steam comes out - but this is normal and temporary (10-15 seconds). But it seems that you are having water dripping out constantly. I wonder if there is an adjustment you can do so that the water stops flowing into the unit at a lower level (just like the adjust on the toilet float valves).
@@nesnas Thank u for all the Info 🙏🏻🙏🏻. Yes we have a Gringer in town. I will check with the and see. FYI, I took the unit apart, and seems like the float rubber stopper is getting old and not stopping the water completely. Not sure if I can just get the rubber piece or have to replace the entire float? Unfortunately, there are no adjustments or any kind, its OFF and or ON... Also, the tank is FULL of lime and scale. not really sure how to get it off. I have soaked the tank in white vinegar for 1 full day, and with zero result. How do you get all the lime off, its all over EVERYTHING inside the tank???? (Thank god, NOTHING is leaking outside the tanks from switches, heating element, connectors...ect. all clean and leak free, its only on the inside the tank). Any input on that I greatly appreciate.🙏🏻🙏🏻 So I need a new float and while I'm at it, I'll replace the purge Solenoid too. So far, I ONLY found the solenoid online about $100, but no luck at all on a new float/valve...I'll take it to Gringer and see if they have anything like it. (honestly I just need the rubber water stopper, its so small).
@@appleSUX1 Sounds like you're making good progress. I am surprised that vinegar soak for a whole day did not take the lime and scale. You may want to try a product known by "limeaway" which is essentially sulfamic acid (NH2SO3H) which is more acidic and will have better solubilizing outcome. But please start with a dilute soak to see how much it could take off, and increase as needed. Avoid direct contact. And when you're done with these acidic treatments, please make sure you soak for at least 2 hours with baking soda to neutralize any residual acid (otherwise you will etch away at your metal - especially during operation - just think high heat, pressure, and high voltage). However, just keep in mind that as long as the lime is not blocking the steam outlet, then you should be alright with some scale deposit inside the chamber (you will not see it and it is not going to negatively impact performance). Also, do not use strongly harsh conditions since have some scale deposit is certainly way better than having pin holes due to acid etched metal (which could lead to water leaks - especially under heat and pressure). As for the rubber piece, you may be able to simply buy a replacement for it from Grainger or even a similar piece that would simply block the water flow. It is more likely that you would find a piece of rubber that could work than the exact identical float valve assembly. Good luck - I hope you get it fixed. Looking forward to your update.
@@nesnas FYI, Thanks to your AWESOME info, I was able to clean and remove 99% of the lime/scale. thank was super clean like new again (If i could show you how bad and thick was the scale that was collected for several years, since I have NEVER cleaned it or opened it till now, u would understand. We have the hardest water in the nation, Horrible). Anyway, THANKS a million for your video and info on how to remove the scale, HUGE HELP...THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU....🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I have the same problem. Curious what you found to be the cause
I wonder how he open and closed the top with the key 👀
Great video! thank you for sharing
Where does it drain?
Unfortunately since my closet is tight, I cannot easily drain it - the drain plug is on the bottom left underneath the steam outlet pipe. You can see it clearly at min 3:35 in this video - I have not drained it since I fixed it - still working great! At some point I may take the right side panel and check for leaks (hopefully none!)
@@nesnas So the drain valve is purely for maintenance purposes like a water heater drain?
@@cooper8318 yep pretty much. If you live in an area with high content of hard water, sometimes calcium deposits may form and clog the unit over a longer period of time. Occasionally draining would help a bit (if you have a shutoff valve installed - I added mine after the original install). This is similar to a water heater (which may be a bit more critical since it is a much larger volume of water and get daily use vs. the steam unit which is much smaller volume and sporadic usage).