Steam Generator Repair - brief highlights (K9 Kohler; Model 1659)
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- čas přidán 24. 10. 2020
- This is a shorter version of my 19:22 minute video. This video is about Kohler Steam Generator Repair after it gave me error 5. The unit is from 2008, and it was installed by my builder. The longer version is here:
• Steam Generator Repair...
Acknowledgement: I thank JohnQ who posted a series of videos on repairing a similar model and inspired me to take the plunge on this - and the plunger out of this unit! Thanks JohnQ.
• Kohler steam generator...
Disclaimer: This video is for educational purposes only and I hereby release myself from ANY liability for any damages you may incur by attempting any of these procedures. If you are not comfortable working with high voltage and/or steam, plumbing, soldering, then please seek professional help. This clearly requires specific tools and proper personal protective equipment, including N95 for fiberglass insulation install. Improper procedures could lead to injury and/or death from several dangerous aspect including, but not limited to, high voltage, pressure, steam burns, fires from improper soldering. - Krátké a kreslené filmy
Thanks for this, my thermasol was busted and just shooting out water instead of steam. After watching this I’ve come to the conclusion that I will be calling a handy man and will just shell out the $400🥳
Update: The original reason for taking this apart was err5. After complete disassembly, I noted at least 3 main problems: 1. Water leaking on the insulation 2. Corrosion around Float switch and noted most at the thread (most likely lead to the leak), 3. Intermittent conductivity test for the float switch. This video shows an overall cleaning, fixing the thread, and replacing the float switch. I was never really convinced that the old float switch (which still showed erratic conductivity ranging from ~8 to 100 Ohms would trigger err5 - apparently now I know that's because there was another issue that I did not know about until a couple of weeks after I put it all back together). I ran this steam unit for a couple of weeks every other day, and was shocked to see err5 come back on again (AGH!!). So it turns out that I never really fixed the original reason for this err, but it at least allowed me to note the leak/corrosion. I did not want to have to take this whole thing apart again which would require sweating the copper steam pipes. Having a mental image of the circuitry in this, and having just enough room for my hand to fit between the closet wall the righthand side of this unit, I took the right side panel off (two screws), and then decided to temporarily loop (short) J4 and J5 (effectively eliminating the two safety switches). I felt comfortable doing so since I knew the water inlet is ok and water is indeed in the unit. Steam proceeded to flow without any errors. Using flashlight, mirror, and dexterity, I cut the marriage of the float switch wire from the thermal switch wire (as they were connected in series), and then proceeded to use the conductivity test them both independently as steam was flowing. I noted that the float switch (which I had just replaced) maintained conductivity at 2 Ohms, while the thermal switch (which I did not bother replacing since I did not suspect it was faulty - as it showed conductivity - albeit at room temperature but not at operating temp), began to lose conductivity flickering between a few ohms to Mega ohms within seconds while steam was flowing, but would regain conductivity once steam took a break. It appears as if it only shows a closed loop at low temps but not at steam temperatures. For me to replace it would mean taking the whole unit apart again (and possibly worrying about further leaks). So I decided that retaining just one safety (i.e. float switch) ought to be sufficient (considering there is a third level safety in the fuse box). So I reconnected the float switch across J4 and J5 (all via the confined space between the wall and the right panel). It has been working beautifully, since, with no more err5. The great news is that I was able to check for water leaks by simply removing the side panel and using the mirror and flash light (and feeling around). Not a single drop of water leaking anywhere! I will be able to check for leaks (in under 5 minutes) every 3 months or so.
Very helpful. I'm waiting for my new float switch from Kohler. I hope I can repair it as I won't buy another unit. This is my second already. I love the steam, just wish the product lasted longer. I barely got 3 years out of it before it failed.
Muchas gracias me resolviste el problema
Funny enough my thermasol looks almost identical, like 1:1 to this 🤔 gave me a good insight abt how it looks like on the inside 😄👍🏻
Great job.
Thank you !!
Good video. Where did u find and how did u search for the foot switch? I can’t seem to find one
Thank you. Here it is: Madison M8750 Liquid Level Sensor, Side Mount Float Switch, Polypropylene, 1/2" NPT
www.amazon.com/dp/B009094IPA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_WHeWFbPPT8BJS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How to build fiber stame
AWESOME video. I have the same unit, but its dripping water out of the steam head inside the shower, nonstop for the past few days. I'm thinking its the purge solenoid or float valve.....not sure. There are NO other issues, leaks anywhere else, thank God. Just that constant drip in the shower from the steam head. Can you tell me where you bought that float switch from/part number? Maybe they sell the purge solenoid that opens the steam to the shower head, or replace the float valve too. Any input that would be great.
Thank you for supporting words. I bought the float switch (this is the safety plastic switch with the electrical contact) from amazon:
www.amazon.com/dp/B009094IPA?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_BR51WCYSP2S0FFVNJAS1
You can also find parts at Grainger (if you have a local store near you or online). It seems like you have a problem with the water inlet float valve. When you have the unit apart, you can test it by lifting the ballcock (big metal floater) and the water should stop flowing in. If it does not (or if it leaks a bit), then that would explain why you are getting water into your shower through the steam head. The water level in the unit must be well below the steam pipe outlet, but if water keeps flowing in, then it will start spitting into the shower.
Please note that if the unit is not run for several weeks, sometime water condenses into the cooling steam lines, and when you start the unit again, the heat and pressure build up will eject this water with gargling sounds into the shower before steam comes out - but this is normal and temporary (10-15 seconds). But it seems that you are having water dripping out constantly. I wonder if there is an adjustment you can do so that the water stops flowing into the unit at a lower level (just like the adjust on the toilet float valves).
@@nesnas Thank u for all the Info 🙏🏻🙏🏻. Yes we have a Gringer in town. I will check with the and see.
FYI, I took the unit apart, and seems like the float rubber stopper is getting old and not stopping the water completely. Not sure if I can just get the rubber piece or have to replace the entire float? Unfortunately, there are no adjustments or any kind, its OFF and or ON...
Also, the tank is FULL of lime and scale. not really sure how to get it off. I have soaked the tank in white vinegar for 1 full day, and with zero result. How do you get all the lime off, its all over EVERYTHING inside the tank???? (Thank god, NOTHING is leaking outside the tanks from switches, heating element, connectors...ect. all clean and leak free, its only on the inside the tank). Any input on that I greatly appreciate.🙏🏻🙏🏻
So I need a new float and while I'm at it, I'll replace the purge Solenoid too. So far, I ONLY found the solenoid online about $100, but no luck at all on a new float/valve...I'll take it to Gringer and see if they have anything like it. (honestly I just need the rubber water stopper, its so small).
@@appleSUX1 Sounds like you're making good progress. I am surprised that vinegar soak for a whole day did not take the lime and scale. You may want to try a product known by "limeaway" which is essentially sulfamic acid (NH2SO3H) which is more acidic and will have better solubilizing outcome. But please start with a dilute soak to see how much it could take off, and increase as needed. Avoid direct contact. And when you're done with these acidic treatments, please make sure you soak for at least 2 hours with baking soda to neutralize any residual acid (otherwise you will etch away at your metal - especially during operation - just think high heat, pressure, and high voltage). However, just keep in mind that as long as the lime is not blocking the steam outlet, then you should be alright with some scale deposit inside the chamber (you will not see it and it is not going to negatively impact performance). Also, do not use strongly harsh conditions since have some scale deposit is certainly way better than having pin holes due to acid etched metal (which could lead to water leaks - especially under heat and pressure). As for the rubber piece, you may be able to simply buy a replacement for it from Grainger or even a similar piece that would simply block the water flow. It is more likely that you would find a piece of rubber that could work than the exact identical float valve assembly. Good luck - I hope you get it fixed. Looking forward to your update.
@@nesnas FYI, Thanks to your AWESOME info, I was able to clean and remove 99% of the lime/scale. thank was super clean like new again (If i could show you how bad and thick was the scale that was collected for several years, since I have NEVER cleaned it or opened it till now, u would understand. We have the hardest water in the nation, Horrible). Anyway, THANKS a million for your video and info on how to remove the scale, HUGE HELP...THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU....🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I have the same problem. Curious what you found to be the cause
I have error5..what can ido
Thanks for sharing! Is there a parts list for these units? I took my 5KW unit apart and found my float separated from the floor arm. I might be able to braze it back. I didn't have hardly any scale inside my unit. I will check the rest of the circuit based on your video. Again thanks for Sharing. My unit is very basic as compared to new units.
Thanks David. Actually I could not find a parts list anywhere. So I just searched for float switches. I actually bought this one (from Amazon):
Madison M8750 Liquid Level Sensor, Side Mount Float Switch, Polypropylene, 1/2" NPT
which is not identical, but worked well since it fits with 1/2" NPT. They're only around $12 (in case you could not fix the old one). But you may already know this; It is a simple mechanism by which the floating piece has a magnet that closes a circuit when it get close to the arm (when water is at level in the tank). This is one of two safety switches connected in series (float switch + thermal switch): if water level is low or if the unit overheats it cuts conductivity and unit gives error 5 (in my case - maybe yours is a different code - most likely similar code).
get a mr steam
You seem pretty knowledgeable about this product, at 1:10 you got these 5 nuts with a gasket behind it; mine seems to be leaking; without having done any research myself yet, would you be able to point me in the direction of where I could get a gasket like that? Or what type I should be looking for as a DIY?🤔
Any rubber gasket would do - I suggest you measure the thickness of your old one (most likely 1/8"). Here is an example: a.co/d/7pMNjbw
Then you would need to precisely cut a similar opening to your old gasket.
@@nesnas thanks 🙏🏻 appreciate the help
Do you have repair?
Hi
*Float Arm
Where does it drain?
Unfortunately since my closet is tight, I cannot easily drain it - the drain plug is on the bottom left underneath the steam outlet pipe. You can see it clearly at min 3:35 in this video - I have not drained it since I fixed it - still working great! At some point I may take the right side panel and check for leaks (hopefully none!)
@@nesnas So the drain valve is purely for maintenance purposes like a water heater drain?
@@cooper8318 yep pretty much. If you live in an area with high content of hard water, sometimes calcium deposits may form and clog the unit over a longer period of time. Occasionally draining would help a bit (if you have a shutoff valve installed - I added mine after the original install). This is similar to a water heater (which may be a bit more critical since it is a much larger volume of water and get daily use vs. the steam unit which is much smaller volume and sporadic usage).
if that kohler ever fails get a mr steam
Thank you for the recommendation. I don't want to jinx it but it has been working solid for the past 18 months!
these units only cost around 300$... easier to replace it and will last longer than this repair
I am not sure where you found them for $300 - The lowest I found 3 years ago was for $4,,000! Not to jinx it, mine is still working as new!
Sir share u r numbers
Any suggestions what happen
I turn on switch then termostat also on generator make one click noise…-and spark
Not working
the information you're providing is not enough for me to make a good guess about what is likely happening. You may have a short, or water leak etc.