Thanks for the time you put into this helpful video. I think you're the only youtube video explaining how this works, and you made me realize that the solenoid valve is only used during the power flush cycle. You state that the Err5 is either the temp sensor or the float switch, but I think you can also get an Err5 due simply to clogged water intake, a common issue with hard water if not using an inline water filter. That is my problem... after 30 seconds I get an Err5. After I hook up a working water supply, no water enters my tank. There's an intake screen filter in the brass fitting on the intake pipe just outside the top of the case. Mine was clean, so next I'll check the brass T fitting, which seems like a lot of work. But I think I can put my flexible camera scope down into the intake to see if there's calcium build-up. Thanks again.
YW! Yeah if you're not getting any water into the tank because of a clogged intake then the float switch will activate causing the error 5. Due to no water in the tank. You do not want an energized 9 kW heating element without any water to cool it. That's why they use the float switch which generates the error 5
@@1afly2 I was able to clear out the float switch inlet hole, and now the tank fills with water and generates steam! Thank you. I'm having one new problem now, though, and wondered if you had ideas: my K-1733 steam unit seems to run too hot when idle. Once it's been powered for a bit, it makes a constant simmering noise that it did not used to do, and is too hot to touch at the sides. Turning on/off does properly generate steam and then stop, but idle seems too hot. Thermasol support suggested a Relay-Contactor replacement ($115), and Kohler didn't have any ideas. Both offered replacement unit at $1050 (Thermasol) and $1800 (Kohler). I've practically rebuilt this unit now and want to get it working if I can. I thought that the temperature sensor / thermostat was a replaceable part, but neither company felt that was the problem. I had seen some suggestions elsewhere for a similar model to disable the power to the "sub heater", but Kohler told me that the 1733 only has one heating element (not two). Have you noticed this symptom at all, or have ideas? Thanks in advance.
The 1733 has essentially a heater blanket on the outside of the stainless steel tank that preheats the water so that you don't have a long wait time once you turn on the generator to generate steam. On the third gen unit they have two heating elements, the preheating element, and then the main heating element. My gen 3 was making that same simmering noise similar to a Keurig when it heats the water prior to bring coffee. The problem ended up being was the heating element in my Gen 3 was bad. Kohler was nice enough to send me the heating element kit which included the main heating element and the standby heating element. When I replaced both my simmering sound went away. With the gen 2, I can't imagine that the heating blanket was bad and that was literally adhered to the outside of the stainless steel steam generator tank. If it were me, and being that you have water issues, I would replace the main heating element if you can find that part from Thermosol for a reasonable price. I am guessing that the standby heating element might have a bad thermocouple (looks like a round button) that cycles the standby heating blanket to regulate the temp to around 170. If the standby blanket is on too long, it would make the water boil and a sound similar to a coffee pot. Those are the only two parts I can think of. It's a pretty simple design. If it is/was the main heating element that is not turning off I would use an amp meter to check on of the leads, if the unit is pulling 30+ amps then I would indeed say that you have a bad contactor. But I would suspect a bad thermocouple first.
@@1afly2 Thanks for this info and insight. Interesting you had the same symptom at one point. My simmering noise is constant (I listened for about 20 minutes), and I'd guess that it's supposed to cycle on/off as necessary to maintain the 170F, but instead it is constantly on causing the simmering. The Kohler rep told me my model only had one heating element (not a standby and a main), but I'm not sure they were confident in their knowledge, as they kept repeating that they don't support that model anymore or offer any parts for it. I will try calling Thermasol to find out if more and if they have parts before I spend $1050 on a replacement. One person I got there last week was super helpful and knowledgeable, but another on a different call was new and didn't know anything and kept saying her manager was telling her they are supposed to refer those questions to Kohler!
@@kickballjamie on the Gen 2 which you have, you have one main heating element inside of the tank and you have a standby heating blanket stuck with adhesive to the outside of the tank. Heating it from the outside in. Gen 3 units have two heating elements, both inside the tank, a main heating element and a standby heating element.
Working on this issue for a client yesterday. I suspect the level sensor is bad, but w/o any support from Kohler, cannot confirm. That thing is epoxied into the threads. Seems like a "destroy to remove" type of part. Edit: Over a year ago, I replaced all of these parts for the client (they bought from Kohler.) Such a shame that one of the parts has failed in such a short time.
Good video, I just bought my 9kw Kohler current gen generator. Still in the box, haven’t installed it yet. I really want a very steamy shower like when the steam fills up to the bottom of the shower and when you basically cannot see your hand in front of you type. My shower size is about 130 cubic feet. Do you think 9kw would be enough for that type of steamy shower?
According to the Kohler website, a 9KW is good for up to 240SF which is almost 2x your current shower size... I would think you would be good to go! I had super steamy showers on occasion in my current shower which is quite a bit bigger than 130SF with my 9KW. For perspective the 11kw is good for 312sf the 7kw is good for up to 112sf and the 5kw is good for up to 84sf.
@@JerradsList thanks man! I’m glad it will overfill my shower haha. I still gotta buy the sealed door and waterproof lights and speakers. It’s my first time building up a shower ground up so I am super excited.
Thanks for posting this, I have a K-1708 (gen 2) which is throwing Error 5 and this video was instructive in understanding the issue. @10:17 you mentioned bypassing the temperature sensor (J4 black wire). My temperature sensor still shows a green light which leads me to believe the float switch (J5, red wire) is causing the error. I was curious if you could elaborate on what is needed to bypass the float switch, from a wiring perspective? Thanks in advance
If you have a green light on top, then you have a gen 3 I believe. Irregardless, if the float switch is faulty, then you could clip the wires that connect to the float switch and connect them together, bypassing the float. This is the same issue that I had: begged Kohler parts for relief and ended up paying half price for the replacement part for a GEN 3 as you won't be able to just replace the switch portion, you need to replace the entire assembly ($210 retail before discount). IF you are a true gen 2, you can buy a float switch off of Amazon 1/2 MPT thread. Obviously this is defeating a safety device if you bypass the float switch and run the risk of an overheat condition should you run into a water supply issue.
@@1afly2 Appreciate you taking the time to respond. I'll go ahead and give that a try. Just to confirm my understanding, in order to bypass the float switch I would need to clip both wires to it, and then connect them together? One of these wires was previously connected to the thermal switch, do I need to do anything with the leftover wire on the thermal switch side? If not I figured I would cap it.
Great video, believe I have the same issue at the moment with error 5. I'm trying to get the entire float assembly portion off the black rubber gasket, but the steel portion is not coming off easily, is there a trick to it as I don't want to apply too much pressure and break something in the process?
Do you have any insights on an Error 4 problem. I just bought a condo, they told me the steam shower doesn't work. The keypad just shows ERROR 4 and I'm just beginning my journey down the rabbit hole. :)
@@1afly2 where did you search, my google search was a lot of ads and fake sales links. I found a one sheeter on Steamist (?) that said it was a communication error? DO I power cycle at the keypad or on the actual unit?
Thanks for the time you put into this helpful video. I think you're the only youtube video explaining how this works, and you made me realize that the solenoid valve is only used during the power flush cycle.
You state that the Err5 is either the temp sensor or the float switch, but I think you can also get an Err5 due simply to clogged water intake, a common issue with hard water if not using an inline water filter. That is my problem... after 30 seconds I get an Err5. After I hook up a working water supply, no water enters my tank. There's an intake screen filter in the brass fitting on the intake pipe just outside the top of the case. Mine was clean, so next I'll check the brass T fitting, which seems like a lot of work. But I think I can put my flexible camera scope down into the intake to see if there's calcium build-up. Thanks again.
YW!
Yeah if you're not getting any water into the tank because of a clogged intake then the float switch will activate causing the error 5. Due to no water in the tank.
You do not want an energized 9 kW heating element without any water to cool it. That's why they use the float switch which generates the error 5
@@1afly2 I was able to clear out the float switch inlet hole, and now the tank fills with water and generates steam! Thank you. I'm having one new problem now, though, and wondered if you had ideas: my K-1733 steam unit seems to run too hot when idle. Once it's been powered for a bit, it makes a constant simmering noise that it did not used to do, and is too hot to touch at the sides. Turning on/off does properly generate steam and then stop, but idle seems too hot. Thermasol support suggested a Relay-Contactor replacement ($115), and Kohler didn't have any ideas. Both offered replacement unit at $1050 (Thermasol) and $1800 (Kohler). I've practically rebuilt this unit now and want to get it working if I can. I thought that the temperature sensor / thermostat was a replaceable part, but neither company felt that was the problem. I had seen some suggestions elsewhere for a similar model to disable the power to the "sub heater", but Kohler told me that the 1733 only has one heating element (not two). Have you noticed this symptom at all, or have ideas? Thanks in advance.
The 1733 has essentially a heater blanket on the outside of the stainless steel tank that preheats the water so that you don't have a long wait time once you turn on the generator to generate steam. On the third gen unit they have two heating elements, the preheating element, and then the main heating element. My gen 3 was making that same simmering noise similar to a Keurig when it heats the water prior to bring coffee. The problem ended up being was the heating element in my Gen 3 was bad. Kohler was nice enough to send me the heating element kit which included the main heating element and the standby heating element. When I replaced both my simmering sound went away.
With the gen 2, I can't imagine that the heating blanket was bad and that was literally adhered to the outside of the stainless steel steam generator tank. If it were me, and being that you have water issues, I would replace the main heating element if you can find that part from Thermosol for a reasonable price. I am guessing that the standby heating element might have a bad thermocouple (looks like a round button) that cycles the standby heating blanket to regulate the temp to around 170. If the standby blanket is on too long, it would make the water boil and a sound similar to a coffee pot. Those are the only two parts I can think of. It's a pretty simple design. If it is/was the main heating element that is not turning off I would use an amp meter to check on of the leads, if the unit is pulling 30+ amps then I would indeed say that you have a bad contactor. But I would suspect a bad thermocouple first.
@@1afly2 Thanks for this info and insight. Interesting you had the same symptom at one point. My simmering noise is constant (I listened for about 20 minutes), and I'd guess that it's supposed to cycle on/off as necessary to maintain the 170F, but instead it is constantly on causing the simmering. The Kohler rep told me my model only had one heating element (not a standby and a main), but I'm not sure they were confident in their knowledge, as they kept repeating that they don't support that model anymore or offer any parts for it. I will try calling Thermasol to find out if more and if they have parts before I spend $1050 on a replacement. One person I got there last week was super helpful and knowledgeable, but another on a different call was new and didn't know anything and kept saying her manager was telling her they are supposed to refer those questions to Kohler!
@@kickballjamie on the Gen 2 which you have, you have one main heating element inside of the tank and you have a standby heating blanket stuck with adhesive to the outside of the tank. Heating it from the outside in.
Gen 3 units have two heating elements, both inside the tank, a main heating element and a standby heating element.
Working on this issue for a client yesterday. I suspect the level sensor is bad, but w/o any support from Kohler, cannot confirm. That thing is epoxied into the threads. Seems like a "destroy to remove" type of part.
Edit: Over a year ago, I replaced all of these parts for the client (they bought from Kohler.) Such a shame that one of the parts has failed in such a short time.
Good video, I just bought my 9kw Kohler current gen generator. Still in the box, haven’t installed it yet. I really want a very steamy shower like when the steam fills up to the bottom of the shower and when you basically cannot see your hand in front of you type. My shower size is about 130 cubic feet. Do you think 9kw would be enough for that type of steamy shower?
According to the Kohler website, a 9KW is good for up to 240SF which is almost 2x your current shower size... I would think you would be good to go! I had super steamy showers on occasion in my current shower which is quite a bit bigger than 130SF with my 9KW. For perspective the 11kw is good for 312sf the 7kw is good for up to 112sf and the 5kw is good for up to 84sf.
@@JerradsList thanks man! I’m glad it will overfill my shower haha. I still gotta buy the sealed door and waterproof lights and speakers. It’s my first time building up a shower ground up so I am super excited.
Thanks for posting this, I have a K-1708 (gen 2) which is throwing Error 5 and this video was instructive in understanding the issue. @10:17 you mentioned bypassing the temperature sensor (J4 black wire). My temperature sensor still shows a green light which leads me to believe the float switch (J5, red wire) is causing the error. I was curious if you could elaborate on what is needed to bypass the float switch, from a wiring perspective? Thanks in advance
If you have a green light on top, then you have a gen 3 I believe. Irregardless, if the float switch is faulty, then you could clip the wires that connect to the float switch and connect them together, bypassing the float.
This is the same issue that I had: begged Kohler parts for relief and ended up paying half price for the replacement part for a GEN 3 as you won't be able to just replace the switch portion, you need to replace the entire assembly ($210 retail before discount).
IF you are a true gen 2, you can buy a float switch off of Amazon 1/2 MPT thread.
Obviously this is defeating a safety device if you bypass the float switch and run the risk of an overheat condition should you run into a water supply issue.
@@1afly2 Appreciate you taking the time to respond. I'll go ahead and give that a try. Just to confirm my understanding, in order to bypass the float switch I would need to clip both wires to it, and then connect them together?
One of these wires was previously connected to the thermal switch, do I need to do anything with the leftover wire on the thermal switch side? If not I figured I would cap it.
@@eckersee one wire goes into the float switch, one come out, cut both and connect them together.
Great video, believe I have the same issue at the moment with error 5. I'm trying to get the entire float assembly portion off the black rubber gasket, but the steel portion is not coming off easily, is there a trick to it as I don't want to apply too much pressure and break something in the process?
It took a little finessing with mine as well, maybe use a flat head screwdriver to pry the float assembly out from the tank.
Do you have any insights on an Error 4 problem. I just bought a condo, they told me the steam shower doesn't work. The keypad just shows ERROR 4 and I'm just beginning my journey down the rabbit hole. :)
Quick search shows a stuck button? I'd power cycle the unit for 5 minutes, then power on. If that doesn't work, maybe try a new keypad.
@@1afly2 where did you search, my google search was a lot of ads and fake sales links. I found a one sheeter on Steamist (?) that said it was a communication error? DO I power cycle at the keypad or on the actual unit?