Should You Learn To Surf On a Foamboard Surfboard?
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
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Learning to surf on a foam surfboard, the pros and cons of doin so. Food for thought if you want to go the foamy route.
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Disagree i’m starting out surfing and i have progressed massively on an 8’ soft-board loaned to me. I struggled bad on a 7’ so bad I nearly gave it up (wrong size for me). My advice is use a large soft top on white water, perfect your pop up, build that muscle memory catch lots and lots of waves, progress to green waves, learn to turn then if you want upgrade. Learning on a shortboard might take you months of frustration to pop up. Soft-board 1-2 sessions using right length. If you’re your not popping up and/or riding waves you’re not progressing. I see beginners on shortboards all the time struggling at my local beach. Cant pop up even once in a 4 hour session and i have surfed 35+ waves.
Hey, there I just bought a 7.2 softboard and I'm wondering is it normal to struggle or is there board too small. I feel very unstable paddling out - falling off the side or resulting in the board rocking somewhat. Any tips? I previously took a few lessons with bigger boards and didn't have this issue
@@raphaeloleary im 183cm/65kg and our 7' mal soft-top was very challenging for me to learn on. Soon as a friend leant me her 8' it changed everything. Now after 4 months of surfing i can go back and surf the 7' occasionally (my wifes board) but I still find my pop up success rate is a lot lower maybe 65% instead of 95% with 8'. I have now purchased a custom 8' mid-length mal shaped board with a bit more performance. Borrow a 8' foamie if you can to help you build your muscle memory.
I'm a beginner with a 6' foamie shortboard, struggling to pop up, am I an idiot?
100 000%. This is exactly my experience. Started on a 7ft 9 then 7ft 6 fun board (hard top) and never been so frustrated in my life. Have hated every session but just too stubborn to give it up. Couple sessions on a foamie and already ironing out some issues. I can contend with paddling out and being out back and catching waves no problem but I could pretty much never get to my feet and stay up, which I've realised is because my front foot doesn't land far up enough and I wasn't landing it flat. Kept going on the ball of my foot, which you can imagine is an automatic flop.
Foamies have a much larger sweet spot in the middle for front foot parking so you can actually ride the wave. The shorter the board and the further it sits into the water the more you have to get your front foot exactly in the middle (ie have a PERFECT pop up) or you'll either pearl or bog the tail. Foamies naturally sit higher in the water so they're a lot less responsive which is exactly what you want when all you need is a stable platform for muscle memory. I agree you get away with a lot of bad habits on a foamie so progressing as soon as you're ready is good advice but I would really caution against never stepping foot on one, especially if you find yourself frustrated. It's a false economy to get a hard board that you can "progress on", like buying clothes to grow into except you might never grow into them without the appropriate sizing to begin with. I strongly believe that you just have to commit to buying and selling when you first start surfing instead of jumping onto an intermediate board, getting really attached to it and hating your life wondering why you can't surf. If that's you buy a foamie.
@@raphaeloleary Paddling stability is a combination of posture and practice of feeling the centreline of the board but ALSO make sure when you paddle you your arms make C shapes under the board and you're not paddling at the sides of the rails. This channels the water under the board instead of rocking you side to side.
I recommend just practicing getting your body positioning right, go out in small conditions and just lie on your board, take waves on your belly until positioning becomes second nature, put a line of wax somewhere in your line of sight on the board and when you get that centre position take note of where the line is and you can orient yourself around that form there. Make sure your feet are together and you're arching your back when you paddle, hip positioning is the most important thing for stability so if you feel yourself falling off shift your hips until you're centered. See if that helps.
Everyone always says they feel so much safer in the lineup when i,m on a foamie...)
@Lucas Briody The sea is filled with foams lately
@Lucas Briody North East UK..everybody bought out all the foamies..there is none in stock here now..
This is exactly what I tell beginners, great video man
Always nice to see something from y’all! Pura vida y aloha
Toward the end of the video I almost questioned if it was you or Atua talking 😂 been following since right before his voice started changing so it’s been crazy to watch the kids grow up! Hope you’re all well.
*Foamies rule!* Haha we are coming out with Ho Stevie soft tops this summer 💦
Awesome 🤙🏽
I learned on a glassed ~7ft fun-gun and it was way harder but it made me much better in the long run
Softops are the new in thing. EVERYONE should have a dope softtop!🤙😉
Couldn't agree more. As long as you're having a good time, why should it matter
@@rachgrigg2447 you understand. You don't use a softies for all conditions, although you could with the right setup. A smart surfer will always keep at least one in there quiver. It dont have to be a 9'6 table. 8ft and undah, and youll be lovin life! Catch Surf's my goto. Triple stringers. Things catch anything and are almost indestructible. 😉🤙
@@piratestyleadventures7185 absolutely! i have an 8 foot foam i my quiver which is totally for 'the kids'. I sometimes prefer to take that because it's easy, fun & when there's 8 million people out, they won't get hurt. Win win in my eyes & makes sense 🤙🏼
I have a glass 8ft glass 6’2 and 6’5 foamie 8 and 5. I love my glass boards like my baby’s because they are baby’s and they are so easily damaged where as my foamies can be thrown of a cliff and be fine. I love riding my foamies soooo much, although I don’t get the same level of performance they easily make up for it in fun
Are you guys going to do another surf camp? I would love to go to costa rica!! 🥰❤️
Foamies are fun when waves get bigger too , since don't have to care about falling or damaging your board . And nice can just keep it on your patio and no worries
They are good spares as well because they don’t break, at least Odysea ones won’t, they can get pretty good performance from the small odysea ones
u had a video talking about the rocks there and there had been some accidents. did you mean on the bottom? like shallow waters? didn't get that. nice vid!
Went out with a buddy. Got up and rode out 4 times for my first time (2 hours) on a 9ft longboard. Only problem was turning that bus around soon enough to catch the ones I missed! Would I be wrong to think to start off on something at least like a fun board / 7-7’6” as my first board ?
I love this board! It's super cute! 😍
It is a great looking bird, but wax is required! I was surprised how slick the decal was when mine arrived.
Hi, just discovered your vids. Super. Where exactly in Costa Rica are you shooting your videos like this one? Thanks!
Awesomeness duuuudeee!!!!!
im on foamie at the moment i want to get everything right before I move up to a bigger board but my goal is to get a mal, got the standing up and paddling right now I just need to learn how to read waves and learn how to duck under them lol
Apparently we can’t duck with foam?
I just picked up a soft board, and I'ml wondering if should I wax it..
Why the soft ? weight . I have a lovely 9 foot glass last time used was about 4 years . Stopped using as heavy for my back to carry across beach.
Se os echaba de menos 🤙🤙🙌
how is she filming her rides? with the gopro bite mount?
The good ol coin trick I always used it
I love my 9ft Foamy (Bombora)... I ride it more than my 12ft Mac.T.
If I didn’t want to invest in a foamboard as a relative beginner, what would you advise buying? I’m 5’9 and have surfed a few times in the not very recent past but was competent enough. Could you help please.
biggest non foam board u can get
The reason I use a foam board is because none of the beaches alow surfing, so the only place to surf is at my friends house but I’m Sufing strait into the rocks, and a normal board will chip if you hit one
Hi
Toop
when should you downsize from a foamy? been surfing all summer on the foamy and can drop in from the back now and catch waves. what should i get next?
Foam boards are great for any wave you may want to ride an if you don't care to be cool .. go have fun hit the water
Ben Gravy and Jamie O’Brien have made soft tops cool! JOB will almost always take a soft top out at Pipe in his vlogs.
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