I’m sending my FiTech back
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- čas přidán 7. 04. 2019
- I’ve been having trouble with my hand held controller for a few months, and finally called FiTech and they gave me the bad news.
“Send the unit back.”
NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!! That’s the worst news! I’m so bummed! Well, thank you guys for learning the FiTech along with me, now on to the new chapter in learning the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4!
I mean, I’ll post the link to buy a FiTech, but I’m not sure that anyone will, haha!
Buy the FiTech here: amzn.to/2WZBRPv
*NOTE: If you buy a FiTech from Amazon, buy it from FITech, not a third party or FiTech will not be under warranty if something goes wrong*
Buy the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4: amzn.to/2OVhOeQ
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Thank you for making the effort to fix it on camera. I appreciate ya. It was like soap opera the ups and downs were amazing
Definitely looking forward to seeing the pro-flo 4 install!
I've been a mechanic since I was 16, worked with EFI ever since I built my first 16 bit Megasquirt ECM back in like 2002, and I got a 2 yr. AS in digital back in 84'. Old school digital ICs typically run off 5vdc (new stuff 3.3vdc) and they are very susceptible to damage from reverse bias or counter EMF (electro motive force). Often with four barrel throttle bodies the coils of the injectors are so large they generate a lot of counter EMF (which is basically a reverse voltage created when the magnetic field of the injector collapses back into the coil during the "off" cycle). One thing that can make EMF worse is injectors that have a low impedance or resistance. (The only difference between the two is that impedance is frequency dependent.) Take an ohm meter and check the resistance of each injector coil. I have no idea if there's only two injector channels and they're paired in parallel or if there are in fact four individual channels, but if any of the coils read less than an ohm the ECM channel that fires it with PWM (pulse width modulation) will see it as a dead short and it will generate a lot of counter EMF which can damage the ECM. I once had this issue and cured the problem by adding precision power resistors to increase the load of the injectors to what the ECM was designed to see. If your injectors aren't the problem just build or buy a built Megasquirt (they're 32 bit & even 64 bit now) and run the TBI unit with it. Then you can just program it with a laptop with their EFI application. I've been running mine for over 15 years with very few issues.
Ha ha!!! Whatever dude.. what did Edelbrock watch your videos and decided to sponsor you. I’ve zero problems with mine. Daily driver, 79 f 250 460. Love it.
I have the fitech mean street kit and I've had multiple questions for fitch, the wait time to speak to someone is ridiculous. I was literally laughing during that part of your video haha.
Excited to see the pro Flo 4 vid. I've had nothing but problems with my Fitech. Not so much with the handheld,just getting it to run right.
Jeffrey Stelling I just got mine hooked up to my new engine and it's a problem. Seems like its flooding and putting when I drive. Makes me want to go to carb
Ours crapped out when the Fuel Command Center harness fried. The ecu died but FiTech fixed it for free (it was 2-3 years old and out of warranty). It runs better now than ever. So far I'm still happy.
Just had a fitech installed in my bronco. Wish I had watched these first. It’s the bain of my existence right now
I always deal with summit. Theyve always had good tech support
I remember your first videos.mines not all it's cracked up to be cold start issues for me very once in a while handle help issues..power and grounds are solid ..
Need to check voltage with the load running. It could be a voltage drop issue, like a bad connector.
Use a T-pin, and back-probe the connector, with it connected, and the key on.
Hi there, great videos mate, watched you over the years getting your fitech sorted, I learnt a lot and applied the same knowledge in getting my fitech to work on my turbo charged 6 cylinder Holden.
My fitech is working fine now but there was a time there that it all turned to crap, the thing was a real bitch to get started, and the white screen did present itself, it was due to low voltage during cranking. I made sure every possible earth (-) was connected and power supplies we’re faultless. Even so the problem sometimes returns where the screen drops out and this is due to piss weak connections the power/com wire loom makes with the controller.
I had to buy that tiny joystick and USB jack from a Chinese supplier and soldier them in after they failed, tried to get Fitech to help me out but they are useless, never got a reply after countless emails.
Don’t lose faith in your Fitech carby even if it is a struggle at times, sure does add to ones mechanical aptitude and marries old classic metal to modern day technology.
Thanks man! Really appreciate the feedback
sorry to hear about your fitech issues your move to go with Edelbrock pro flo 4 multiport is the write move i just installed it on my 1970 5.0 gt40 heads B303 cam NV4500 5sp and I LOVE IT runs great good for you enjoy
That’s awesome to hear!
I’ve had the FiTech 30002 installed for 3 years on my daily driver and never had any issues. I absolutely love it. Purchased another one for my new project.
Good luck, my 30002 just died with about two hours of total run time on it, but out of warranty since I installed it later when the truck was actually close to being drivable (ordered it in 2019 and kept it in the box until 2020 when I started setting it up). Seems to be an issue with board design losing power, and it's not uncommon. They refuse to acknowledge a faulty board design despite low hours and no known issues with my electrical system. If you haven't installed it yet, do yourself a favor; return it and pick up a Holley or Edelbrock equivalent.
Customer service emailed a very unprofessional response to me last night after they found my social media post of me describing my issue in detail. Instead of trying to make it right it seems they are more conscious about their brand image.
Good luck with Edelbrock port injection. I'm sure you will have better luck with it. I'm running Holley Sniper TBI injection. It's killer. I chose Holley instead of FiTech because the customer support seemed crappy when I was looking into the FiTech transmission controllers.
Best of luck with everything. Can't wait to see her running again. I'm going to stick with my Sniper and probably try it out with a roots blower on my SBC. Edelbrock makes a small one that should be good for 500+hp.
Had to send mine back due to a ECU issue and got it back fast with alot of updates installed. I've had the unit a couple of years and FiTech didn't charge me for the repair or updates. Best of luck to ya!
Nice! Good to hear
Wow... I was thinking of getting a Fiteck.... I tried an edelbrock EStreet and it failed miserably.... My Holly carb runs great every day..
oh shit...thanks man saved me so money on this, gonna go a different route
My FiTech runs great now.. But my whole FiTech experience has been a bad one.. It's on my daily driver.. And ive spent weeks without the truck.. First the faulty unit out of the box (5 weeks to sort), then trying to find a company in Chattanooga to tune it to get it through emissions test (FiTech technical just said "oh its not designed to meet an emissions test") and then the 2 injectors going bad.. And now the fan connection doesnt work (despite the screen saying fans on.. No switched earth to the relay), the supplied fuel pump sounded like a hydraulic pump.. It was insanely loud.. FiTech wasnt interested, so I replaced it with a Bosch 044 which is virtually silent.. And this is all within the first 1,000 miles.. And each time you phone its 30+ mins on hold.. I'd never buy another.
My system has been unreliable and unfortunately the customer service at Fitech has been downright crap. Even when you send it back, they will charge u a ton to fix it. PLEASE let us know how you like the other unit.
Fitech don't know the words 'Customer & Service'; - They have never once replied to emails for help.
Ive bought 2 FITech fuel pumps, both crapped out in 2 month intervals, bought Walbro , no more issues.
I'll be watching for the pro-flo 4 video that is the one I want for my 5.0 5 speed maverick.
I said the ecu may be your problem on your last video, so I am still sticking with that for now. I hope they can fix it for you.
I was thinking about one of these glad I watched
I tried a fitech it did all that and said it couldn't connect to the ECU I sent it back to summit and went back with a quickfuel carb and regular with electric fuel pump and I have a lot more power and runs way better if I ever try fuel injection again it will be the Holly sniper kit
I had a similar issue with my fitech. It would show 12 volts at the handheld with the controller unplugged but if I plugged it in and backprobed the connector it didn't have the full 12 volts. The power supply for the handheld inside the throttle body went bad. I wired the power side of the handheld controller directly to battery power instead of plugging it into the throttle body. That fixed the issue for now but overall I am very disappointed with the fitech. It is difficult to tune especially on a high performance engine with a large cam. My engine falls on it's face and stumbles when floored.
I unfortunately agree with the Fitech since I’ve had mine on it seems I’m always chasing problems. But I hit my 302 with 150 shot all year and it’s fine so there is that I guess
I have a Quick fuel 580hr carburetor on a 97 ext c15 5.3 and I have not had in issue with it for 20,000 miles
Love my edelbrock avs2 carb.Thought about EFI .Looks like to many problems.
Thanks man. You saved me money. I'll just stick to my good old carburetor.
Voltage into the ECU will be batt voltage, the 5 volts coming out is standard voltage reduction for all sensors, and is most likely the correct voltage to the handheld, so it appears you have an issue with the motherboard in the ECU. You have 3 possible options. Get them to send another complete unit and hope it works 2, have them send a new ecu or motherboard (depending on which is offered for replacement motherboard, and replace it yourself (not what I would want to do), or just find a company that stands behind their product if they don't.
If you have a friend with FiTech. Try your cable and handheld on their system. That will help you narrow down where to look.
Ive had my fitech for 3 months. Replaced 2 injectors, 3rd one failed yesterday and flooded engine on the highway. Sending this shit back and getting the holley sniper. I hate not being able to drive my bronco.
What's the diagnosis for a handheld controller screen that turns white when you crank the engine? Car is not starting. I noticed the FiTech guy asked on the phone but they didn't elaborate since that wasn't his issue. But it is my issue. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
I'm glad I stumbled upon this video before I bought one
very underrated video production.
Was looking at this unit but after reading all the comments and watching the video I think I’ll stick with the edelbrock 750 that’s on there.
Hey Man! Happy Birthday bruh!
Thanks Brad
They will make the change for you because is still in warranty or because is nashvielle early bronco?
It’s not under warranty and they told me I had to pay for the fix
Hate to see the FiTech has been holding you up. Hopefully they will resolve it quickly. After all the time spent trying to get the unit working might be time to try something new. The emp pulse from the coil is a good idea for the issue but I had white screen issues and I ran 3 extra grounds on my unit and mounted the coil on the fender and had three grounds to the motor not including the extra grounds that I added from the fitech-intake bolts.
On another topic if you head east to Uwharrie let me know iv got a 72 high boy now would love to meet up and go wheeling.
Yes! We need to do that one day.
Mine's still not going since September last year.
I bought a points distributor to test variables but I believe I've wasted $2k and should've gone carbs.
Backfire on light throttle, more throttle then super rich, super lean backfire, backfire backfire (through the Fitech not the exhaust) whitescreen on controller, cut out, no start. No matter what settings I try, who I call, what advice, it just keeps doing EXACTLY as I describe.
To say I hate it might be about the mildest description you might apply.
i can't bear to look at my truck anymore. I hate it.
Scary shit, I've got a 2x4 Fitech on the engine stand right out of the box, I've been running a Sniper on my race truck, had a little drama, but nothing like this
hey question for ya? how do you feel about the new "fitect ultra ram" products? ive wanted to go EFI but I want something better then basic TBI style? should I take the plunge and put $1700 into it or stay away?
Not sure about the Ultra Ram stuff. Haven’t heard much about it.
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco was afraid of that, only thing im seeing on youtube is fitect showing them off at car shows and etc... but thanks for a quick reply man! you rock!
How frustrating. Try the Holley Sniper EFI. Or put a Holley carburetor on it. After watching a lot of EFI related videos like yours I am in no hurry to go EFI on my Chevelle.
If I was to do it I would install the Holley unit.
You seem pretty chill about this. I would be super angry. They sold you crap !
Good luck.
Ya gotta keep em' carbureted.😉
Love your videos. But do yourself a favor and look at the Holley system. It will even control the 4R70W.
I looked at both before I bought. It all came down to service. I called FiTech for service and got help right away. I called Holly several times on hold for over 30 min. before hanging up. Never did get thru to them.
Love your editing style. You're hired!
Haha! Thanks
Fitech is got a nice blow thru setup I have had no issues , Holley and MSD they all have issues all have hiccups . None are fool proof .
That’s the truth
I didn’t have problems with mines but now it don’t control my fuel pump... the fuel pump works when I hook it up to direct power
Old Ford, full of voltage drop. dungey earths, dry connections. I own one about that vintage. Power wire straight to battery or from main started cable. 12.43 volts is nearly flat as they should be 13.5.
Like others say fit a carburettor. Holley efi by all accounts is better but not much.
Sux they are recommending to send it back. Dude on the phone wasnt very helpful. Quick tech tip when checking voltages and grounds. Its best to check for a voltage drop with the circuit energized rather than checking voltage. You can measure full 12 volts on a circuit that is not loaded but it can drop once amperage is introduced into the circuit. Set meter to voltage and energize the circuit. Next place one lead on battery positive and backprobe the connector with power lead with the other meter lead. The meter will display the lost voltage in the circuit. Shouldn't be more than .5 volts. Now do the same thing on the negative side. Meter lead on negative battery post and back probe the connector with ground wire.
Good advice. I was going to mention that also. Measuring no load voltage with a high impedance meter doesn't really mean much.
Same thing I did, fought fitech
Ditched fitech, went with pro flo 4
For my big block Chevy 496ci way better unit. You will be much happier with edelbrock.
Love mine. Sorry you had so many issues. Threw mine on a 400 in a 78 bronco. Will never buy a carburetor again. It has taken a yr or so to really understand how to tune it, but hey it took me yrs to learn how to tune a carb so…. Also every TBI EFI prefers single plane intakes, not dual plane. Its do to fuel distribution between how a carb meters fuel (vacuum) and how the TBI does (AFR sensor). Sure it will run on a dual plane but some cylinders will run rich and some lean, with a single plane the cylinders get a better average AFR. Don't worry about losing your low end, the EFI brings that back. Again the EFI meters fuel based on AFR not vacuum signal.
I saw an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 in the background there. Whats that about? I just installed a pro-flo 4 system on my 68 mustang and I love it. Port injection, distributor control - its really nice.
That’s the next install. Pulling the FiTech off and putting the Pro Flo on
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco sweet. I like mine. Theres a few tricks to tuning it but theres a really good forum that edelbrock put together. Make sure you check it out
Got it! Thanks for the advice
What happwned to the Sniper you bought recently?
I don’t have a Sniper. I got the Edelbrock
When I installed mine i noticed that the unit grounds through the base mount stud. I thought it was inadequate so i added a ground wire from the base to my firewall ground post
Smart idea
I had to run an earth from the battery to the base of the FiTech on mine
@@properteaproperty ive ran into ground issues before. Assuming that adequate ground will happen through the many layers of gaskets ant through motor mounts is ridiculous. Chevrolet wiring is much better than most fords ive ever seen/worked on. They usually have several redundant grounds.
My brand new FiTech HP400 was faulty out of the box (fuel pump ran constantly.. Even with iginition off). FiTech suggested a seperate earth.. Which I did.. It didnt cure the problem. It ended up going back.. And tool them nearly 5 weeks to send me a replacement new unit. FiTech as a company are a joke and the product is junk. In the first 1,000 miles ive had to replace 2 injectors (supplied under warranty) and the complete fuel system is brand new, tank, lines etc.. At some point later this year I'll ditch the FiTech and go for a Holley
Hold a piece of sheet metal between the FiTech and the coil and see if it makes any difference. An electromagnetic shield, so to speak.
I have not owned a FITECH setup, I'll give you credit for seeing it thru with tech support and entertaining ideas of others but just the blank pauses from the tech on the phone from FITECH really didn't give me any confidence on that they know there product and where it came from and how it works at a circuit by circuit level. If I had to guess they'd likely just swap it out for a new ECU with the same potential problems. To be perfectly honest I like that your giving them a chance but from what I have seen so far and in other places leads me to believe this is a half baked system with subpar parts and service. Car makers put ECU's in cool place knowing that ECU's are affected by vibration, heat dissipation, so having it in the throttle body is a potential point of failure. Take a look at your Pro FLo 4 system, the ECU is separate, potted in epoxy and easily replaceable. sensors are fairly common using GM type compatibility, the distributor is their unit so off the bat you'll have the ability to control your timing. I am impressed by the level of the knowledge of the people on their support forum who directly work at Edelbrock and design the product and know whats in the ECU in depth. If you ask me bottom line I'd just remove the fitech and replace it with the edelbrock system. Your bronco should be driven and enjoyed not in a garage collecting dust with an EFI that doesn't work properly.
12.4 is low battery voltage. You need to do the voltage check to the red and the white wire while cranking the engine. That said, doubt that is the issue with the handheld.
If you are not going to have an injector in every intake runner it's really not worth the expense just put a good carburetor on it and forget about it way cheaper will make more torque
Noooo! All things said and done. Would you buy the fitech again? Or maybe go Holley sniper?
I would buy it again. I loved it when it worked
Nashville Early Bronco right on can’t wait to see an update 👍🏼 these cold start mornings are pushing me towards efi more and more everyday 😂
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco I definitely would not. My 600 PA has not worked from day one. I'll tossing it in the bin & setting up a Haltech multi point system. An expensive lesson.
Circuit boards made in Malaysia werent meant to be bouncing around on negleted government roadways. Cut a hole through the hood and get an Enderle or Hilborn. 🤣
So everything worked before the cam change? Maybe your just missing something loose wire ? Wire not hooked up ..
It’s didn’t work before the cam change. It went out a few months before
Nashville Early Bronco oh gotcha..
Love this stuff when it works but damn when it goes !grrrr lol
Hopefully fi tech explains what went wrong ....
So, if the handheld is only plugged in to make changes/adjustment, I’m thinking your better off to have all your engine mods nailed down before installing and setting up the EFI system (set it and forget it) .... I’m also thinking this is BS and, for the kind of coin you have to drop on a conversion like this, you should be buying rock solid technology and this company should have stellar customer service/warrantees to back you up after the sale. I really am hoping that the day will come that an all-in-one, bolt on EFI system that is a simple, cost effective choice to a carb will come but it doesn’t seem like it’s there yet. Sounds like a new 4 bbl is still a “better bang” for the time being?
Edelbrock!
Two words. Holly dominator
I don’t like the ECU being on top of the intake manifold where all the heat coagulates.
Heat is the enemy of electronica.
They should’ve wired it separately so it could be a remote mounted ECU controller.
Yep, agreed. The ProFlo 4 has the ECU separate. More wires, but it’s away from the heat.
I have a FiTech 30004. While "some" may consider it to be highly configurable, there is another term that also aptly can be alternatively used; junk. Over the years, I have experienced issue after issue with this POS, and it is, for me, a not so performance oriented induction upgrade. I have transferred this monstrosity from one car to another, that had already been set up (fuel lines, elec pump, etc) for an MSD throttle body. End result: the MSD worked 1st/every time without having to be monkeyed with; just as with a carb.
Just try to get help from tech support; different person every time. Only one of the support guys seemed to know the product and got right to the heart of the matter, in terms of cold startup. But tuning? That is a different issue altogether. Tech support does NOT answer requests for help from their website. They also DO NOT answer emails, in a timely manner OR (more usually) at all. The customer is left to their own devices to tinker on their own. Good thing I've worked with aftermarket EFI on friends cars over the years. Your videos were helpful, but did not necessarily address the exact issues I ran into. But again, they did and still do help. So thanks for that.
I cannot recommend that anyone go this (FiTech) route where EFI is concerned. MSD all the way is the choice I would make just for the sake of true simplicity.
Worst product I have ever bought. I wish I could get just half my money back.
I think you wired the 2nd (new) controller thru your blinker. ha ?
Haha! That’s what it was 😂😂
my FiTech died after a month, it was fantastic when it worked, but what a let down. I ended up just putting a carburetor back on.
same here, just too many problems
Does you seat belt ground it,
Maybe you should wear it☺
through that thing in the garbage and go with a Holley sniper unit
No idea what is wrong but the way you are measuring voltage drop on both the supply side and ground side is wrong.
On the supply side you measure for voltage drop in a complete circuit with it connected, not disconnected.
The circuit must be operating. The best way is to backprobe the connector.
Disconnected like you had will not show a voltage drop and will show available voltage.
On the ground side resistance that affects the circuit is relative to the load in the circuit.
If the load in the circuit has a low resistance a low unwanted resistance will affect the circuit.
If the load in the circuit has a high resistance a low unwanted resistance will not affect the circuit.
With that said, the way to check a ground side of a circuit is again using voltage drop.
With the ground wire connected measure voltage at the ground connector.
Generally anything more the .5 volts is a problem.
That’s great advice, thank you! I see what you’re saying and I’ll do that
I would go carburetor, a perfect set carb puts out more horsepower, Google this ( carburetor VS fuel injection) watch videos, and there are different after market fuel injection systems.
Not true.
After 2 years I finally gave up on my Mean Street; I bought the Holley Terminator and BAM!! Troubles were over 😎 I had high hopes for the Fitech but I got tired of sending my unit back for repairs
I had the same issue and ended up sending mine back after several frustrating weeks. It turned out to be a faulty ECU . It runs great now but I am a little nervous about dependability. That being said when it runs well there is nothing like it , but if I have another issue I will swap it out for good and go back to a Holley carb.
Wonder if the ECU overheats being right on top of the motor.
Possibly
My Holley fuel injection had a issue and they said It was out of warranty. No help from them it was on my dime.
Ouch
Give up on that bad boy and get yourself a Sniper. Almost 20min on hold F! That!
Meh, I was on hold with Holley today for 20+ min with my Sniper...same shit
@@duanedahljr1669 hope they helped out with your problem, the dude I spoke with while installing mine was badass and had a ton of answers
@@nickg7827 yeah, I didn't have big issues, mostly questions as I switched to progressive linkage and I developed a couple of anomalies. A couple of adjustments fixed one of them..the other issue was a little more difficult so I went to the Sniper forums at Holley.com...other than that it ran great today.
@@duanedahljr1669 I was thinking of doing the same thing, how's it working for you? Install looks pretty straight forward and I'm hoping it'll help me out when im crawling my old Jimmy.
@@nickg7827 it's got a glitch or two...the first was kinda easy, the tip in point was set at 40% and I adjusted the linkage to make it perfect, but the engine would stumble in the transition area, Holley recommended to set the handset percentage to 35-38%...and that fixed this issue. The other problem is now on cold starts it loads up pretty bad...I gave it a few days to learn, but this morning, same shit..runs like it's got a carburetor on it...not sure about this yet...I transferred my last tune when I updated the firmware, and it ran perfectly normal until I switched it to progressive...idk...
I’ve not heard anything good about Fitech or anything good about the support you get from the company so they are going to have to improve both before I wood even think about buying there products
Shoulda had a holley
That's one reason, I haven't gone efi. Scared if I'm out where theirs no cell service, and the electronics go out , your screwed.
Definitely a thought in my mind often
Get your money back and put a Holley Stealth or Terminator tbi setup on it.
This is Austin from Fitechefituning.com. I am not affiliated with Fitech. I have troubleshooted many installs, but never seen this exactly. All the suggestions were valid possibilities. Unfortunately didn't fix. I recently learned of the coil placement issue with Fords. Usually causes interference with the Blue Tach wire. In your case, it may have interfered with some circuitry. Fitech is very good about fixing systems. Pain for you, but at least it will be fixed....
Oh nice! Yeah I know they will fix it. Bummer of a situation.
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco Nice video production btw. I just started my channel, Fitech EFI Tuning Forum. Only a test video so far. I have over 2 dozen tech videos to outline and film. It should complimen the website well.
Thanks! That’s Awesome! It will help a lot of People.
I have a bad sd card that will shut down what ever you put it in
Thanks, good to know not to buy one!
wow nice video
I wish I could return my Fitech 600 PA from Australia!!
It has never been capable of staying within the AFR targets from day one.
As a mechanic with 36 yrs under my belt & previous quality EFI system tuning exposure, I'm thoroughly unimpressed with the set-up & in particular with Fitech's complete lack of customer support. They have not once answered an email & phoning from Aus is just not an option, that leaves notoriously dodgy Forum advice, watching CZcamss & FB pages....hardly the way to get the best from your product Fitech!
I've even tried linking with the laptop to tune the system properly from there, but of course, it won't connect.
Don't be caught like I did, save your $$$ & buy a well known proper EFI system.
Holley sniper efi.
Let me know what happens
In the computer world we call that the white screen of death, in other words get a new ecu
I don’t know one person who has been happy with that system. I converted mine to Microsquirt in 20min and it’s never run better
Fitech is junk!
Randum Adventures With Brian
I don’t want to jinx myself, but 8 injector, 1200hp system is so far, so good with ProCharger
That’s great!
I am very happy with mine! They aren't junk, as they are the leader in that technology. The systems are complicated and not made for everyone to install them. It does take some knowledge.
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco Microsquirt fills me with confidence by appellation alone.
my fitech fried when i washed the motor, cant afford to send it in to get it fixed yet
Ouch
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco i dont think ill put it back on
Ooops. Not supposed to get electronics wet.
Had the 600hp model on for 3 hrs and sold it garbage cheap units
Maybe condensation or you spilled something on the controller.
Initial problem isn't supply voltage..it comes on, shows up, then fails. That's a typical graphics card failure...usually due to sticky liquids connecting circuitry. Which probably shorted the FiTech's internal electronics :/
I'd be amazed if they didn't waterproof the controller, though..in which case my next guess would be how extremely fragile the controller appears in videos...you sit on that thing once and it's done. and if you're unlucky it connects improper circuitry and fries the entire system.
Let's just assume nobody did anything wrong. You didn't step on the controller or install it wrong, the manufacturer didn't produce a shoddy product... the next most realistic option electromagnetic interference.
just a suggestion to FITec, they may want to just send a nice new unit to people like you in this position. bad news is like bird shit on a barBQ, no one will eat there after some body screams:)
I’ve had that same dude on the phone before, I think he needs to take deeeeeeep breaths before every sentence. Almost as if speaking is a hard task for him
Specimen of great health I’m sure
I new you would not be happy with it
I’ve not really heard anything good about them just to be honest
They are still a little new somewhat so nobody can offer help including fi-tech
You actually got ahold of somebody from fitech to give you another controller. You should have bought a lottery ticket
😂😂
hack a microsquirt usa made sweet ecu into it i bought one and am doing just that to a use futek unit . i got it dirt cheap ony resign i bought it i am a microsquirt guy and the new unit is sweet
So no more FiTech?
No more. Went with the Edlebrock ProFlo 4