FiTech Troubleshooting on the DDSS '57. Can I Make it Run?
Vložit
- čas přidán 12. 08. 2021
- We are picking up where we left off last video. The fuel tank ha been cleaned and re-intsalled, and now it's time to fire the DDSS '57 up and go cruising! Or is it?
The FiTech system seems to be giving me issues once again, and in this video I'll show you what I've been doing to try and get it all sorted out. Follow along, and let me know if you have any helpful tips or advice to consider when working with one of these new fangled EFI systems, because I AM STRUGGLING!
One thing I do know, if you mess install or even just mess one of these EFI systems, you're going to need a good digital multimeter for checking voltage and resistance. Here is a link to a brand I trust over on Amazon. amzn.to/2Ue9qhD
Click through if you're looking for a good multimeter to help you with your EFI struggles, or other general electrical testing. Don't forget, you can use the link to click through and do any of your everyday household or car project shopping over on Amazon, and we'll earn a small commission on your purchases that will go right back into the projects over here at Montana Garage. Thanks for all the support.
Also, send me an email if you do make any Amazon purchases through my links, and I'll be sure you get on the list for FREE Montana Garage stickers once they become available. (while supplies last, quantities limited so don't miss out!)
Don't forget to visit us over on Instagram @montana_garage where I post many short updates about all of the various projects we are working on.
Send me an email with your questions, comments, or content ideas to montanagarage55@gmail.com
And, we finally have a post office box. You can now send your stickers, car parts, or any other goodies to:
Montana Garage
96 N Weaver Street Unit 858
Belgrade, Mt 59714
Also, check out these other channels for quality automotive content. #communitynotcompetition
@soberingrestorationservices
@DDSpeedShop
@CoastalAutoReactionCAR
@MortskeRepair
@RoyMarkosGarageRMG
@RobertsGarage
@Str8sixfan
@OldeCarrGuy
@bwsgarage
@SpyderGarage
@OutlawEdge
@haffrods7055
@MakeItKustom
@IronheadGarage
@TheCarGirl
@187Customs This is a new one for my list. I've been watching it for a while. and it's a pretty cool channel if you're into street and no prep racing. They definitely don't need my support, but I think it's a pretty cool channel if you're into street and no prep racing. Plus, they built, and are now rebuilding a badass '55 Chevy that was crashed in a race. Check 'em out if you haven't!
The following channels won't "link" as they are smaller. All the more reason for you guys to search them out, watch their videos, and hit the subscribe button. You won't be disappointed, I promise....
@JAWSatB&CPerformance - badass '57 Chevy, trifive guru, general automotive genious, and surfing! Check it out!
@nzmopar - some cool fab work
As always, thanks for watching! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
You gave it way more time than I would have. Carb it and get back to working on the 55. I'd like to see the 55 back on wheels before the good weather is gone. Good luck.
Solid advice. '55 content on the way. Stay tuned!
Man something I learned in my small amount of experience with these systems is in order for it to work right , Buy a Holley
You can get an electronic module for that distibutor to replace the points, and eliminate that weak link in the chain. The coil may also be part of the problem.
Great advice. That is exactly what I try next. Stay tuned to see how it works.
I'm glad you won the 57 chev. Even though it's been a nightmare, I didn't know you existed until you won and I watch your channel all the time now. I like how you go in depth with your issues, just remember you will never get stranded with a carburetor.
I know it’s personal taste when it comes to computers in cars, my personal taste is old school and an old core keep computers out of it ! They are too finicky
I'm starting to lean that way...
I agree ,carbureters for me.
I know this is an old series, but I enjoy the trouble shooting aspect of the content. Frustrating as all get out, but it is always cool to see things figured out after making attempts to resolve. Carb? Oh yes. I am a old school guy all the way. I know these new gadgets do a tad more but I prefer the tried and true limited electronics and no computer related crap. These things are really created to baffle us it seems, at least for us old school cats. As always, I am enjoying the series.
Thanks. It did baffle me for a while!
Man what a headache.
Hope you get it figured out.
Dam electronics!..
Carb sounds pretty good about now to you I bet.
Good luck Brad👍
Thanks Chris. If I had a good one on hand, it'd already be on there. I don't really wanna buy one, so doing all I can to solve this, but so far no luck.
I remember when that fitech was installed, that model fitech was supposed to be on a motor with electronic ignition and not points. Dan said it should be fine.....NOT. I also would remove and replace any wires Dan touched including all the cheap garbage he bought like the key switch.
I’d be interested in what fitech has to say. It does almost seem that there is a defect in the product. I’m enjoying your videos. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Brent. I, who knows basically nothing, also believe its a defect in the FiTech, but they are having me try some other things that require some other parts. Stay tuned to se how it works out.
@@MontanaGarage here is dan fitting the fitech, maybe it can give you some ideas or you see whats not done right..
czcams.com/video/3D-nEciDw3E/video.html
When it's running it sounds mint!
Fiteck should send a tech to your house!
GM has a voltage loop to by pass the dropping resistor while starting, resistor dropped point voltage to 6-8 volts, loop wire comes off the solenoid to coil I terminal. Has 12v. During start up.
Good luck, you have more patience than me. I'm glad I went with carb's.
Thanks David. It's trying my patience for sure.
Yes call in on it to see what they say. I give you a hell ya. You been doing everything you can think of. 🤔 so I call and see what the tec says. Good video update. Thanks for sharing.
You bet man, thanks. I did call. Stay tuned for what they ad me try.
I had similar problem with a holley sniper set up their not happy anything under 12v at start so I believe your on the right track there and also my low speed stubble was a bad advance spring in my distributor hope you get it figured out thanks for sharing
Intermittent electrical issues can be a bear to resolve. Keep digging, you will figure it out.
Truer word have never been spoken....
I've read alot of fitec reviews with people having issues with them. Hope u get it figured out!
Yeah, it seems to be going around. People either love them or hate them it seems. Thanks man.
I used to run 70's Mopars with ballasts resistors. If you hook it up wrong you can fry your ignition.... 1. Maybe the fitec needs to be connected to the other side of the ballasts resistor battery side not points side or 2.The ignition is getting full power on run and reduced voltage on startup! In either case you may want to rewire the ballast resistor. The quick test is to run a jumper wire across the ballasts. If you have room drop in a HEI distributor and eliminate the ballasts All together!!!
I think that cheap ignition switch Dan put in is bad. That is what is causing your loss of power at cranking
Thanks. I will try a different one and see what happens. I appreciate you trying to help.
Yeah, check on that ignition switch. I think it's been hanging around a while & no telling where it came out of!!
I think contacting FITech is the right way to go.
Thanks. I've contacted them. Stay tuned to see how that works out.
Stay with it , you'll get it figured out and the mg 57 will run.
I hope you are right Mike. Thanks for watching.
Brad you gave it a fair shack down. But if your like me it’s done pissed me off I would have to figure out what’s wrong with it. I would let Fy- tech give me some advice but if still don’t work bolt a carb on it so you can enjoy driving and come back to computer stuff later. Be safe. 👍😎✌️
Thanks man. One thing is for sure, it has done pissed me off!
See too many people on YT and real life with Fitech issues. They need to step up thier tech support or they won't be around much longer.
I agree. Thanks for watching.
If this is true, failing a full set of INSTRUCTION SHEETS, and cust. svc assist, I'd dump the fitec, get your own choice electric fuel pump and MATCHING carb, and begin enjoying cruising instead of "bruising"!!
Gremlins....litterly...keep at it brother.
Keep plugging. I think FiTech is a good place to turn. WatchJrGo did a Bronco Holley FI conversion and they needed a coil driver. Not sure it's the same issue but, it sounded similar. If FiTech can't help, drop a carburetor on it. Nice work on the troubleshooting!! Cheers!! 😎
Thanks Paul!
I have also had my fun days with my Fitech setup on an LS. The biggest issue was my 02 sensor not reading correctly after having it running way too rich and causing problems with the AF ratio. Also I really went crazy with my grounds from both sides of the engine to the chassis and 2 grounds to the electrical under the dash. Seems the fitechs love good grounds. After that I was able to finally get my IAC setup. IAC is the biggest part of getting the car to start and idle.
Make sure the splices are soldered. Electronics don't like butt connectors etc. Also make sure the main power wire is a large gauge wire. The bigger the wire the less current through it.
Thanks for the tips. I used to solder all my connections, but have gone to just a really good crimp with heat shrink added lately. If nothing else works, I'll go back and solder the connections.
Consider: Low RPM miss is an indication of vibration fault. I suggest you replace the ignition capacitor. Bo.
Thanks or trying help. Points an capacitor are new, but could still be bad I guess. Thanks for trying to help.
Many many moons ago.. I had points problems.. I got some lazer points replacement thing for my 73 Mustang Mach 1..back in like 1992 or 93...never had start problems again.. And now everyone's saying new points are crap..
Thanks Henry. That is my next attempt at trying to make this thing work. Stay tuned to see if it does!
Would it make sense to install a Holley carb. with an electric choke, and remove the FiTech?
I agree with the other comments that you have spent more time than a lot of us would have by now!
IIIIIIIII think I'll stay with my Quick Fuel on my 1969 Camaro. Thanks for the video.
You bet man. Thanks a ton for watching and commenting.
Your channel is a great advertisement for FI-Tech...
When you get tired of it, I'll buy it off you! 😁 I've always wanted a '57 Chevy.
Right now I don't think it is a great ad for FiTech. You want to buy the FiTech or the '57? Both might be for sale soon if I can't figure it out... Thanks for watching.
@@MontanaGarage I was being sarcastic about the ad for FI Tech...😁
But I'd probably be interested in the car, with or without the FI Tech unit. I'm in Northeast Montana, but my nephew is a deputy Sheriff in Gallatin County. I'll tell him to keep an eye out for you when you get stranded again!
@@skn9895 Ha. Thanks. I need all the help I can get!
Don’t know if you ever got it right but the instructions say no points with resistor that’s why you’re voltage drops
The outside post on the starter gives the coil hot 12 volts to start, make sure it has one and it is hooked up, newer starters don't use it with HEI ignitions so the one you put on it may not have.
Have you tried or is it possible to clean any junk that may have gotten into the "carb" from the dirty tank?
Is there a fuel filter in the fitech? Is there an injector in fitech?? Dirty? clogged?? Gas tank was a disaster. ???
There are two inline filters, both cleaned during the fuel tank cleaning procedure. The issued "could" be stemming from something clogging an injector, etc due to the rust in the tank, but, most of these symptoms were present before running the tank empty and possibly sucking up debris. Nothing is clogged that I know of, but inside the throttle body I have no clue... Thanks for watching and trying to help.
If you are a Holley guy, I have one in Superior that was in a box of stuff I got from a guy cleaning a shop. I'm an Edelbrock guy. The intermittent low voltage makes me think ignition switch.
The best way to fix that fiteck is to get the proper adjustment tool.....its called a big HAMMER....just go old school. Love the vids. Thanks
Thanks Tory. I have a big hammer, and may use it soon.
You probably already did this but do you have a good ground from the block and the body? That's the one ground that goes overlooked the most and you need a good ground from the motor to the body to get a lot of the after market stuff to work properly.
Could it be a bad ignition switch by chance?
Everybody I know that tried to use the Fitech or Holley EFI systems gave up and went back to an Edlebrock carb. They never could get these systems to work.
This one had an ECU issue. FiTech replaced it under warranty, then it worked great. I have since sold the car though, so no idea if that continued. Thanks for watching.
How about that white ballast resistor have you replace that
Would love to see you figure this out. I would redo all the ignition wiring and power to the fitech. Could be a cheap ignition switch that causes to much resistance, not thick enough gauge wire, or once it warms up the power wire to the fitech has too much resistance in it and not allowing full voltage.
I agree, I'd put another ignition switch in it too. They're cheap enough.
Thanks guys. That is one thing I haven't tried is a different ignition switch. I have tried bypassing it by jumping across the start posts to crank it, but the ignition was still hooked up so could be causing an issue I guess. I'll see if I can find another to try next time I work up the desire to work on it again. Thanks for watching and trying to help.
@@MontanaGarage check to see if the voltage regulator on the firewall is faulty. That's what regulates the consistency of your voltage. If the inside of the regulator got hot and the wires didn't burn completely into, in can still get inconsistent voltage due to crank vibration. One minute it has 14 volts the next 4 5 or 6 volts. This might not be the problem, but with Fitech and how it was reading different voltage depending on rough idle or smooth crank it's a possibility. Just trying to help, Sincerely Shane Morehead.
Same thing just happened to me with my Fitech. Ran and started fine for a few months and then it became really difficult to start. Once started, it ran reasonably fine. Took it to a shop. They called Fitech and learned that the injector driver module was broken. I called Fitech yesterday and started a work order. Will send my unit in, and they will supposedly fix it. Hopefully this solves the problem. If not, I will try a Holley sniper.
Hope it fixes it for you, too. I will most likely just go back to a carb if I cannot get my issues fixed. Thanks for watching.
Sounds stupid but the ignition switch may be bad intermittently internally. Swap it out with one from the other 57 and let us know.
Thanks man. That is one thing I haven't tried. I'll do that soon. I appreciate you trying to help.
@@MontanaGarage I’ve heard it on the Tri-Five forums before because the keys hang off the switch that the run position gets messed up.
Ouch 3 steps backwards no steps forwards , don’t give up you will sort it eventually 👊
Story of my life lately. We'll get there! Thanks.
Another thing, does that Sun tach do a sweep when you first start up? I know Holley had big issues with tach sweep on start up freaking out the ecu.
I've disconnected the old school tach. No change.
👍👌🙏💖😎Keep up the good work!
I'm trying. Not sure how good it's been here lately.
@@MontanaGarage ALWAYS GOOD 👍🙏 NOT EASY DOIN WHAT YOUR DOIN👍
Sounds good when its running. Pumping it only works carb not a T.B. to get more gas it but I think you know that. If your voltage is low on your coil for starting, clean the solenoid contacts and make sure your wire off the starter is good which bypasses your resistor to the coil. You could have some burned spots on the solenoid disk. You can sand the disk clean on the starters solenoid and check the pick up spring lead inside the solenoid switch. That would cause an intermittent starting issue which is hard to find.
Thanks for the advice.
as I said before, my buddy spent months with a flakey Fitech and constant problems, he switched to a Holley EFI and has been solid ever since. Has to be a bad board in the FiTech and they are known for that,
I agree, just waiting on parts to confirm. Thanks for watching.
My holley efi was an exhaust leak causing my problems
Make sure you check all crimp connections maybe a bad crimp.
Thanks man. I've checked and redone all connections that matter as far as I know...
This has been a real challenge. Have you checked the temp sensor, if it's sending a bad signal like to hot it will shut the fuel off as it thinks it only needs fumes to start......Just something to check. hope it gets sorted at some point.
You're a brave man taking that thing for a drive without a support vehicle behind you.
I'm the kind of guy that would fuss about with something for a long time just to say I was able to fix it.
However.. there comes a point where I would rip that thing off and get a good old carburetor just like the other folks here have said... and even you have said! Surely you have a carb around there.
Maybe dirt from that bad tank has gotten in and messed the unit up. Maybe grounding. Maybe Ignition switch. Maybe the old style distributor isn't compatible. Maybe it doesn't like being in the USA? Maybe the planets haven't aligned right yet. Maybe Moose needs to pee on it.
Anything that finnicky needs to take a hike, man. Enough is enough.
Tinker with that efi unit when you are bored and have nothing else to do. Or when you want to call their tech support, if it exists.
You DO have other things to do.. right? Right??? ;)
Thanks man. Yeah, I have moved on to other things for the time being. Waiting on some parts to try out the advice I got from FiTech, which so far doesn't seem like it was much help. Stay tuned to see how it works out, and '55 Chevy content coming soon!!!
What a pain in the ass. I would have dumped the Fitech as soon as I got it & threw a Holley on it..
Solid advice. Thanks! (me too if I had a good one on hand..)
I agree toss it and put a carb on it.
May be coming up soon....
At this point I’d like to see you beat this An be successful in getting it running , but on the other hand there comes a point An time to say enough is enough an call it junk an go back to good old carb An be done an start to enjoy it as you deserve to finally enjoy it with confidence ! Time for some other content besides this ! Cheers 👍
Just wondering if your power wire is going through that ballast resistor.the ignition can go through it,however the fitech should be full 12 v without resistor.
Thanks Phil. The wire is hooked to the full voltage side of the resistor block.
I would have done that long ago. Nothing wrong with the tried and true 4160.
Yep, I agree. It might come to that soon.
Is there a metering soliniod on the carb? It could be bad if it's not sending fuel down the throat
Not sure...
does it have a crushed wire somewhere inside the ecu
I had the cover off recently and didn't notice any crushed, loose, or broken wires. Thanks for watching.
This may be a waste of time and effort, but have you checked out the O2 sensor to make sure it’s not covered in crap or the wire to it isn’t melted to the exhaust? Like I said it maybe nothing, but worth a look.
I would just clean up the outside of that 55 carb and throw it on. Hell the wagon ran with a carb that was filthy and sat for 20 years. Ran perfect
There is a wire from the starter that gives the coil 12 bolts when cranking I’m thinking the system isn’t getting 12 volts I had to put a jumper on my ignition switch to get 12 volts to the hei when cranking on my 55
The starter solo noid Has a 12 V to the distributor for start or start could use that is that to the white wire
Thanks for the tip and for watching. Much appreciated. It needs 12V at start and run, but keyed, so not sure starter will work.
Call FiTech for sure, but I have to ask: can the computer screen device be "reset" to the manufacturers out-of-the-box settings? If so, that would eliminate a settings error - I was thinking that it was tuned at one elevation, then shipped to another...?
I'd be done with the thing if FiTech can't resolve it after one call...you already spent too much time, but I am enjoying the content!!! 😁
I have now talked to FiTech, and one of the things they had me do was what you suggest, resetting the device. Stay tuned to see how it works out. Thanks for watching!
Did you check to see if the voltage regulator on the firewall was faulty? O'Rileys has them for about $69. Vibration can cause a faulty regulator to read 14 one minute then 4 to 7 the next. On the inside of the regulator it heated up causing a disturbance with connectivity, that causes inconsistent voltage. P.S just trying to help.
I appreciate you trying to help. I have not looked into the voltage regulator, so that me be something to consider. Thanks!
Nobody and I mean nobody leaves a old point and ballast resistor system in a hotrod build.- I think your idea for a relay triggered from the keyed hot on that old resister ( be sure not to use the reduced voltage side that feeds the coil it 9 or so volts ) and fed hot on the common terminal via a inline fuse directly to the battery and the normally open feeding that after market injection system is your best bet for now - it will guarantee a good and constant 12V supply.- Hank in there and don't let that crappy job get the best of you
I know points aren't the "way" to go, but trying to keep a budget here. Upgrading the dizzy is my next move though, so stay tuned to see how it works out. I have not wired in the relay, because at this point, it won't start when wired directly to the battery, so doesn't seem like a relay would help. right now. Thanks for the advice!
@@MontanaGarage HUMMM!! - I was going to ask you to rate that injection system because I have a couple of old Chevy's that could use a upgrade - I have in the past installed a throttle body 5.7 into a 79 Mercedes 300 TD wagon and all went quite well - I will stay tuned as I am sure you will rate that unit one way or the other - Thanks for giving me the time of day.
You have the patience of Job, I would Have yanked the thing off n put my 6oo cfm carb on it and be done with it.
Ps. What will it do with a 12 volt coil and no ballast resistor.
Another thought is the s wire hooked up on the starter to the coil?
Thanks for the tips. Removing the ballast doesn't help. Thanks for watching.
Carburator Will fix ?
So the first thing I would look at is the Ballast resistor that is on the firewall and if is in anyway connected to the Injection system. In 1957 Chevy used a ballast wire to the coil so the voltage would run 4 to 9 volts to save the points and then a 12 volt supply to the coil for start position only it was run off the starter solenoid or the ignition switch I’m sure I’m telling you something you already know, with your with your control box telling you only 4 volts I have to suspect the ballast resistor.
Have the starter checked
Im shotin from the hip but do you have a bad cell on the battery check for a bulg on the side of the battery
No bulges, and I've tried two different batteries.
What kind of ignition switch do you have.
Apparently a bad one. IDK, el cheapo one was in it when I got it. Not an original. That is one thing I haven't changed...
Wow An Edelbrock will fix it right up.
some of the starter solenoids have a terminal to give you 12volts at start and then stop when you release the key that will give you battery volts at start
Thanks man. It need 12v at start and run, but has to be keyed, so I am not sure the solenoid will work. I'll look into it though, because I could be wrong. I appreciate you trying to help.
My vote is carburetor. Two things that are happening has happened to me before. The original old tank strainer could be sucking inward causing low to no fuel pressure. Since your tank job, this issue started. Higher fuel pressure needed for fuel injection. 2nd issue= low RPM miss is a worn out old points distributor shaft. I've been there. Shaft wear causes points gap issue. This is not your no start issue. You found the low voltage signal to be an issue but pouring gas in it and it running doesn't make sense. It's like you have two issues but actually three. Is there old tank debris in the injectors? Does it have a filter before the throttle body? When dragging in any old car thats been asleep for decades, the gas tank should have been dropped, inspected and repaired first. This was not your doing though. If you wanna fly me over there, house me, feed me for a week, I'll help you. Two guys doing bodywork on the 55 would go quick.
Thanks man. I really have had the issues the whole time I've had the car. It has always been kinda maybe I'll start, maybe I won't, it just seems they got a bit worse lately. The gauge at the FiTech pump seems to read the 58psi it needs whenever I check it. I agree there could be some issue with wear in the distributor, and I thought about swapping that next. I think with the low voltage, the ECU doesn't tell the throttle body to add fuel, so I think I have enough voltage for spark, but the ECU isn't seeing enough voltage, even though I can measure 11+V at the white wire when cranking, to trigger the throttle body to add fuel??? Hell I don't know. I can't argue that it could be something from the bad gas/tank clogging up something in the throttle body. I'm not sure how to check or remedy that. Thanks for trying to help. I'm not sure about the fly you up and feed you part, but you're welcome to come wrench or paint anytime you want....
@@MontanaGarage I know your very well capable of doing the work yourself. I'd like to get an experienced bodyman over here for a few days to help me. Two body guys can knock out bodywork in half the time. I've trained several guys in the last 30 years and can't get one of them to come over. Lol
bypass ignition switch and that little white block on firewall just for testing??
I've bypassed the resistor block, and tried starting it by jumping across the posts on the starter, no change. Thanks
Are you getting your switched power there at the Ballast resistor? If so you need to find another source. And if you have a dash mounted tachometer unhook it. Check the fuel pressure regulator screen if there’s any discoloration it’s dirty and needs to be cleaned. I have the 600hp unit on my 87 Dakota that I V8 swapped and I know some of the problems can make you pull your hair out lol. If I were you I would get a installation manual and complete re do the install.
I agree redo install, instead of chasing a thing that D&D missed
Thanks Jimmy and @Carmelo Blanda. Aside from totally removing it from the car and starting over, I have basically redone the install one wire at a time as I chase this down. I have been getting switched power from the top of the resistor block, but it won't currently start even if hooked directly to the battery, so I don't think that is an issue. I have unhooked the old school tach, no change. I indeed have pulled out what little hair I have left. Thanks for trying to help.
Check the ground on the fuel gauge , and maybe the ballast resistor is the problem with the starting
I do need to check the ground for the fuel gauge, just haven't gotten around to it yet with the other issues. I've tried bypassing the resistor, as well has hooking everything directly to the battery, even a separate battery so the was no starter draw, and still nothing. Maybe it needs on of those badass MOOK stickers. Bet it'll fire right up then.... Let me know how o order one of those bad boys! Thanks for watching and I appreciate you trying to help.
A 1 " carb spacer will help with tuning. If it's a dual plane manifold.
Thanks for the tip man. I've heard it help by getting the ECU away from the heat a bit as well. I may try that in the future if it ever runs again...
I would check the ballast register, it could be bad, I would just put on a reg carb on it
Thanks for the tips.
It seems you're having a fuel problem. Did you take the line off the throttle body and check the filter that's in there? If you didn't do that maybe give that a try.
Your cranking signal isn’t going through the ballast resistor is it?
No it isn't. Thanks for watching and trying to help man.
Man , I hope you figure it out. If it was working it would likely stay that way !!
The inconsistency has gone away. Now it consistently doesn't start.... Not good. Thanks for watching.
Better hotwire from keyswitch are connectors. + keyswitch?. Great. Ground ideas.!
Old school Holley carb and hei distributor.
No room for HEI, but I like the carb idea... Thanks!
what i am observed is your losing voltage drop on start personally i would add a wire to the outside post of my starter like the one it should have for the points factory would have been yellow anyway add that to your white wire just a thought what that does is supply 12 volts when your in start position Peace
Acts like it's re learning every time you start it. Could be them points 👉
Put your dwell meter on the ignition system and coil voltage at the resistor. I have an after market small body electronic distributor for sbc. Works great, in storage, I'll find it and send you the numbers, also a dual point, early GM Corvette, phone in the book, call me!
u need to uses a amp meter .. in simple terms
volts is applied pressure
current ( amps ) is flow of electrons
resistance is restriction to volts & amp
check on both side of the ignition switch for voltage and amps .. as a wire heats up from electron flow the resistance increase …. amps drop and therefore voltage gets pulled down
should also check amp draw on the ecu feed wire and ignition wire at or close to the ecu if possible
That 59k rpm is rfi. Some say grounding fixes it, some say shielding on the wire. Make sure you have resistor type spark plugs.
and a loose/faulty battery cable gave me fits on hot restarts
Thanks Gary. I've re-done all of the grounds, and have resistor type plugs. I have re-routed the blue wire to try and help with the rfi, but have not shielded it. Something else to try I guess. Thanks for trying to help.
Another idea.put in front yard with a sign 5 dallers a wack
Haha, it might come to that...
I was yelling at you at the grocery store not to buy any ice cream just in case the 57 let you down
Ha, yeah I knew better than that. No perishables were purchased, as new there was a good chance I wasn't gonna make it home. Thanks for watching!
do you have a bad ignition switch
I will be looking into that soon. Thanks for the tip.
after watching the complete video, looks like you have narrowed it down to a bad computer issue, most likely a bad tps sensor. Hope fitech will make it good for you. also low idle or rpm miss is due to the fact that Dan used the stock manifold these systems work best with an open plenum manifold.
Typically points ignition doesn't get a full 12 volts while cranking. HEI has the capability of a full 12 volts. The blue wire has to have that 12 volts to make the computer work.
It seems the problem is connected to the voltage you see at the computer there. Something is showing like 4 when it's 12. Maybe the computer inside the unit is bad. Nothing I can think of would make it be so intermittant
That is where I'm at, but FiTech wanted me to try some other things. Stay tuned to see how it shakes out.
Personally, I would just put a carb on it. I hate computers in cars.
It's heading that way. I figured it was cheaper money wise to try and get this working, but it's costing me a fortune time wise... Thanks for watching.
Did you notice Michael Myers looking in your rear window at night.
I did, but I scared him off. He probably don't want to mess with me...
i have had FiTech in 3+ car's had nothing but bad luck with them FiTech customer service was no help but they're willing to sell you a new unit
It seems people either love them or hate them. I customer service hasn't been super helpful. They did give me one thing to try. Stay tuned to see how it works out, and thanks for watching.