Adding to the 'Magnus MidtbĂž 9C Test' with
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 25. 02. 2023
- WOW it's the nerdiest collab yet!!! We love!
Thank you Jason, Emile, and thats it for making this video so informative đ€ we love it! Check out their channel here: / @hoopersbeta
For extra footy, visit my PATREON: / annahazelnutt
& ofc slab is sexy stickers here: annahazelnutt.etsy.com
#hoopersbeta #9ctest #magnusmitbo
![Anna's Mom vs Irena's Mom: WHO WILL WIN?! đ± [alt. title: Bring Mom to Work Day (wholesome) đ„°]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for hanging with us!! I just want Dan to narrate my life now... Then maybe I would finally climb 9c!
I had no idea you did 8c sport! Bonus points for your street cred đ
8c is the score he got !
I would love 100x more of the side-by-side expert analysis. Outstanding
Ooooh good to know!! I'll corner Dan again for more hahaha. I have the analysis outtakes on my Patreon as well :)
Yes, i love those. Dans insight is great and its also nice to see different styles and how they play out on the wall
Agreeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Yeah can't get enough of Danalytical
the side by side was great! would love to see more of it. thanks to the help from you guys' content i have recovered my finger injury AND gotten way stronger finger grip and better technique. climbing has never been more fun, and looking forward to more progression and safe ways to train
As a not yet climber I have really enjoyed seeing analysis of people climbing. Translating that to action no doubt is tough (as it seems to be in any other sport) but just hearing the actual dynamics seems really helpful.
Get on a wall, hurry
The beta breakdown is explained so well, great video and climbs!
Anna is so cuteđ
And she's also such a sweet and kind person.
She's like a majestic tree frog when she climbs.
The breakdowns and narration were excellent!
Really interesting breakdown of styles and technique, few channels have managed this. More please.
The collab I've been dreaming of!
Working on my stretching so all info is good to know, some not relevant to me but still good to know.
Always like a Hooper colab.
Anna, you just rock! đ
I was expecting you two to take a mental toughness test đđ
Very nice video and learned a lot!
Ohhh I was thinking on a different Magnus! đ But great video you two!
this video hyped me to do even more stretching lol. Nice collab :)
Heavier climbers and/or with bigger hands are usually pretty ok on three finger drags/open hand/sloppers; and the opposite is true, if you have long fingers, it's harder to crimp 6mm crimps hehe.
Dan having to steal a mic was so cute lol.
FR! These side by side training vids are so good at zeroing in on the specific areas of flexibility that need improvement and that is super motivating to my lazy, can't be bothered to unroll the yoga mat, ass.
Not to forget ankle mobility in squatted positions. Hooper's Beta has probably covered this elsewhere đ
I started trying to train 3 finger drag after watching Dave McLeod's videos and I'm so weak as well đ the difference to even an half crimp is monumental
Just a small tip thereâs a typo in the title I think it should say from.
Amazing vid!!! đ
hehe thank youuuu #fixed
Anna, were you a dancer or a gymnast? You are wicked flexible!
doesn't this kind of confirm what was being tested in the first one? it was just supposed to be a theoretical max grade for your available strength and power. That makes sense. You're a much better technical climber and so are able to climb much closer to your "strength limited" grade ceiling.
if you assume the test is showing what is possible with proper training and technique, i think it makes sense how the first test did those things. Hooper might be able to climb higher grades based on pure power, which you can see by his reliance on power and dynos, but doesn't have the technical skills to challenge you for less powerful moves that just require good technique, knowledge and footwork.
Ah, the missing form!
The reason why pretty much everyone is testing finger strength with 20mm is to remove some limitating factors that are not directly linked to pure finger strength. In my experience, anything under 15mm can be hugely affected by :
-skin, notably thickness of it
-humidity (not always better to be as dry as possible, especially with already dry skin)
-pain threshold
-finger size/thickness (and yes, smaller fingers are usually beneficial, also outdoors !)
-rounding edge / quality of hold : of course not a problem when training only on the same holds, but no 6mm is equal to any other 6mm, and yes, even within the same brand and model ! A 10mm plastic edge is very different from a 10mm wood edge, etc.
So, as to keep comparabilty within time and across holds, 20mm is a pretty good point.
Thatâs a great point! Removing variables can be useful for testing. However, all of those variables you listed also come into play when youâre actually climbing. More variables doesnât mean testing and training on edges smaller than 20mm is useless; in fact it actually can help mitigate some of them (e.g. training your skin to be tougher and less painful on tiny edges).
@@EmileModesitt Ah ! I didn't say that training on smaller edges is useless (but for testing, i think it is), but that it was not so strongly associated with finger strength. However, in testing, you usually want to isolate as much as you can what you're testing, or you end up with data that you can't analyse (which is, arguably, what you want to do with the results from the test).
You particularly don't want to have "random" or "variable" stuff come in to play, such as skin (which varies hugely even in one person) or conditions, because it means that one result you had one day with one climber can't be compared to another result, with the same person, but three weeks later.
In addition, we could generalize that the more complex the test becomes, the more complex the analysis will be, up to a point where it's impossible or at least not measurable. We can see this when the coach is comparing the two climbers in this video : sometimes, even though the two climbers have a very different approach to a movement or sequence, the coach can't exactly say if one is better that the other, because too many things comes into play.
Also look how much lower Anna is hanging in 25:30, even she's shorer than Jason. Her arms are visibly longer.
And her legs.
The link to their channel seems not to work :)
ooop thanks, it should work now?
I spent way too long trying to work out how Anna = chocolate and completely missing the Hazelnutt part đ
đ đ« đ°
@@AnnaHazelnutt I'm a scientist. That doesn't mean I'm smart đ
I have 0 pts, can I still climb 9a? :D
For sure! But then you wake up )
What about feet and leg strength?
If you send me a pic of your feet, I will rate them.
No shade to magmidt but I think the discrepancy can basically be explained by the fact that when the only tool you have is a hammer it can be tempting to treat every problem like a nail⊠not that he isnât also an excellent climber, but if strength is the hammer the man has gosh darn sledge.
It's not actually his test, it comes from two fellow Norwegians who wrote The Climbing Bible. Magnus just popularised it on CZcams so it's become his.
The test wasn't developed by Magnus, he just popularized it by being the first to do it in a video. It was developed by Stian Christopherson and Martin Mobraten.
Odd title. Magnus' test was pretty specific about being a "strength only" type of test, and disclaimed pretty clearly that technique is not measured.
A trendy, clickbait title. Get rekt
Ahh, I kinda meant it just like that-- their test leaves out everything that isn't explicitly strength, so we specifically tried to do other tests (everything the MidtbĂž test was missing?)
Why title the video that way though? Itâs the lattice test, not the magnus midtbo 9c test? I understand trying to get views, but why not get views based on the merit of your content? Why use Magnusâ name in something that doesnât have anything to do with him?
It actually is Magnus's 9c test, I didn't misspeak. Here's the link to the Hoopers video where we do the 9c test that I reference: czcams.com/video/srY3ZCKXGuw/video.html
Itâs the guys who wrote the climbing bibles ultimate 9c testâŠâŠczcams.com/video/UOBB4wkTdxQ/video.html They administered the test to magnus but itâs not the magnus midtbo 9c testâŠ.But you are right, I was wrong about it being the lattice test
@@stefslyfe The test was popularised by Magnus' video, your original comment couldn't be more wrong. No one would know what the Martin MobrÄten and Stian Christophersen test is.
By calling it the Magnus 9c test, we all know the reference and what the videos is about. Maybe next time check your facts before calling someone out.
@@chewa21 maybe I wasnât talking to you. The test isnât called the magnus midtbo 9c test and to title a video that itâs missing something sort of leaves a negative impression to anyone who doesnât know any better, as if to say that the test isnât all itâs cracked up to be. People include famous people (in magnusâ case, someone with over a million subs) in their title because theyâre trying to improve the seo of their own videos and thatâs fine, but donât include a title that could be perceived as attempting to cast a negative light on someone else, while trying to at the same benefit from the usage of their name.
@@stefslyfe You made a public comment, if you can't handle receiving replies keep your comments to yourself.
That's exactly what the video is about though. The test ISN'T all it's cracked up to be. Theres much more nuance to climbing than the metrics the test measures.
Did you watch the video or just get butthurt that someone used magnus' name?
The rest of your argument is garbage, do you actually believe that people can't critise other people in CZcams video titles, whaatt?
It's not Magnus' test, he just made it viral. Would be nice to credit the actual test developers @stianchristophersen and @martinmobraten