am i really an 8b+ climber? i (finally) try Magnus Mitbø’s 9c test!
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- čas přidán 20. 10. 2021
- Subtitle: Pete and I struggle with mental math (don’t worry, I’ve cut a lot of this out)
I try @magmidt‘s infamous(?) 9c test to see how strong I am, in theory 😂 shout out to @Pete_Whittaker for helping me film (@WideBoyz )
Let me know if you predicted my score correctly, and if you did this/ do this challenge, go ahead and let me know what you got and how it compares to your actual sport climbing grade!!
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I've seen a bunch of these videos. Typically the "good technique" climbers are also pared with high finger strength and low pulling power. This result really stands out as different. Impressive
Nice sneak comment at 9:52 lol Enjoying your videos! Keep them coming!
Hehe, awesome!! Play at 0.25 speed people.
Cover of my last sex tape 🤔 I was like wtf
I tried this test last year and got 7b/+ I think when I was a 6b+ climber max. I think some of the exercises can gain you way too many points for very little. Like holding an L sit for 20 seconds is super easy, but doing a front level for 5 seconds is wayyyyyyyyyyyyy more difficult considering it's only 1 point up
I agree!! No way can I do a front lever, but I’m sure my L sit would’ve given out in another 10 or 15 seconds- maybe some overlap could occur with more time on L sit
@@AnnaHazelnutt Well, there is our flexibility test! I can’t do an L sit for flexibility reasons… 😅
I cannot do L sit for 20 sec, but can do front lever
@@Mylada Yeah they are completely different muscle groups to do each, but also that's wild man, you got some strong ass back/shoulder muscles
I think the test overemphasises pulling strength and underemphasises finger strength
hey, love the content lately + you seem to enjoy yourself a lot, wishing you the best !
Good video! Love your energy! 👍
I have been binge watching your videos, they’re all so entertaining your editing is top notch :) i don’t know if you make these kind of videos, but I would LOVE to see a video on how to improve your climbing technique. I’ve been climbing for about 3 months and I’m addicted, but I’m stuck on 6c and can’t seem to progress. I did this test and my strength is that of a 7a climber, so I’m guessing my technique is still pretty shit haha. Thank you, I really adore your channel! Keep up the good work!
That's amazing progress to be doing 6c with just a few months of training! Actually, I've been climbing again for about 6 weeks doing 2 sessions per week and averaging between 6B to 6B+ 😊
Good job Anna!!
Great video 👍
Hell yeah! You killed it! 👏👏 love the one arm shave too!😆
omg that still photo of your front lever is legit :D
I support your armpit rebellion. Do what thou wilt.
As far as we can tell, this is still her body, agreed.
Well done on “Once Upon a Time in the Southwest”, Anna.
Thank you 🙏🏽 stay tuned for my longer vid here on this channel too :)
Super inspiring that you can climb this hard with these strength metrics... (personally I had more points on this test and climb 6c+/7a level) It would be super interesting if you would go deeper into the rabbit hole (maybe with the help of the Lattice guys?) to see exactly what is your "secret".
Hahaha that would be epic. Trying to get to the bottom of it myself 😅 not quite sure why I’m so “weak” but can still pull hard!
Holy smokes you must have ridiculously good technique and/or tactics
Or the 8b+-Route she did was very much her style!
I was wondering what the armpit shave thing was, now I know xD own it! 👍🔥
This is inspiring to me. Your technique on the wall must be SO good!
😂 it must be okay!
Good effort
Woah, I totally thought you'd smoke the finger test and crash the pull-up test. Really thought you'd be at least twice as strong on fingers!
big difference between L-sit and a full front lever, L-sit looked easy for you so there should be a tucked front lever option in between
The crow caw is the new bald eagle screech 🦅 They take film transitions to the next level of intensity 😉
footwork queen!
40 points, 9C. I'm calling it. I believe in you 💪💪
9:52 😂😂😂
Lolll 😂
For me this test gave super weird result of 8a. I've been bouldering for 2 years, went sport climbing 3 or 4 times lately and couldn't even do any 7a. Individiual moves felt super easy but always got too pumped before the top. I'd put endurance above anything else for sport climbing tests :)
ah yeah! I think it would also depend on what type of route one pursues- I tend towards longer routes with less physical cruxes
This is very common when boulders try sport climbing. That has (almost) nothing to do with endurance, and everything to do with proper climbing technique. Sport climbers focus on minimum energetic effort for each move, try to be as relax as possible, have many techniques to optimize leg effort vs arms effort, etc.... Bouldering is not about minimum energetic effort, it's about maximum effort during very few moves. 2 different sports.
@@mr0totonio This is so very true!
Congratulations! 👏 I got a score in this test that is way higher than what I expect I’d be able to climb if I started sport climbing. (I almost exclusively do bouldering.) And that even though my endurance is less than half of yours at almost the same weight. Maybe the endurance part of the test should have a greater weight in the calculation? (And I love your contrarianism! 😍)
Yeah this test definitely has its flaws 😂 if there was a flexibility portion I’d definitely rack up points there and potentially make a full comeback haha
@@AnnaHazelnutt Oh yes! That’d be a great addition. Also this crazy hand-eye coordination thing, or rather all-extremities-and-their-momentum-eye coordination thing, that is so important for coordination dynos. I’m also really bad at that. ^.^'
Very impressive. And I love the contrarian armpits.
the assymetrical arm pit shaving should become a trend!
I agree!
I’m stoked at the shape this lady is in… I watch a lot of pro surfing and I’d say she is in double the amount of endurance shape that any top athlete on the WSL man or woman!
omg lolol on the subliminal message, worth going back for
I got 24 points which is a solid 8a+, yet never climbed more than 7b/+. I never really had the opportunity to spend time on harder grades to see how I would perform on them so it is a bit biased but I think this test does have some flaws. It is fun though!
Defo should have practiced on that lattice rung beforehand.
I think I'm going to start shaving my left armpit!
I've got a sneaky suspicion she can hang really small edges just with no added weight. And the higher grade routes she's doing are death crimp faces (just a guess). Very light for her height + mega flexible with a strong full crimp. I can believe it :) .
Still great to see climber climbers though rather than cretinous gym pullers
Hahaha you may be right 🤔😂 I think a lot of people in the comments assume if I can full crimp well, then my half crimp should also be stellar- but this just isn’t the case. Especially when I’m not training! My half crimp is my weakest hold
Kinda makes sense but really surprising. Half crimp is normally everyone's go to!
Also congrats on once upon a time, that's a serious way to start a ukc log book ;) . Don't know how long you're in the UK, but go to Pembroke !!!
Ive climbed 15a New Hampton street
text at 9:51 made me laugh so hard 😆
Thats really interesting guys. I defo climb less than my strength . I would guest I would get about 12 points 7a+ with out practicing these moves however could go up a grade with practice. my onsite grade is much less though, due to endurance, technique, and head game.. I will give the test a go some time in November.
Yeah! I think if I started training for a few weeks I’d see huge improvements (maybe a bit optimistic, but I feel like I’d be closer to my actual climbing grade if I trained first)
@@AnnaHazelnutt It great that your a better route climber than your powergrade though.... Showing technique over power !! I have been working on technique this summer, Cant believe I only started using heal cams a few months ago....... I also try to find a way to use the lease amount of hand and arm strength now although still resort back to power when I a getting tried.....
I bet you would have scored closer to your actual climbing level if you were well rested instead of doing comp problems all day :) still great job!
Absolutely. I‘m pretty sure everyone else did the test after simply warming up, not after climbing all day :D
I think the test has its inaccuracies but certainly doing it after a hard day of climbing is going to hold your score down a bit. Way to go nonetheless!
i dont think its meant to be a perfect science either, its just a good test to give you a general idea of where u are strenght wise, and its also a good test to see how much you improve over time etc, doing the test after 6 months again and so on.
interesting that this test doesn't test anything that has to do with legs (for example pistols) i think it looks like your extremely good at pressing through your whole lower body when other climbers would just pull hard with there upper body and get more pump. really impressive!!
That's because you do not need that much leg strength and our legs are much stronger than our arms. Everyone can squat but not everyone can do pullups. If you are not that heavy you can get easily within 2 or 3 month enough strength to do one leg squats (for pistol squats for most people the limiting factor is flexibility and not strength). But you need years of training to do one arm pullups.
This test doesn't mean you can climb 9c if you got enough points. It just means that you are strong enough.
To climb a certain grade you need 3 things
- strength (that is tested here)
- flexibility/mobility
- technique/experience
When I have been able to boulder 6a (Fontainebleau scale) I dare to say that my legs have been really strong. I could easily do several pistol squats. Back then a lack of upper body - especially finger strength - and mobility have been holding me back.
@@PeterLE2 agreed although I don't think I have good genetics within like 4 months of training at home I saw the pistol squat and did it in a couple of tries and I'm quite good at skipping legs lol although I did play a lot of basketball when I was younger so that could have been a factor
i can bang +50lb pullups for 5 reps but cant generate any force from a high foot position to save my life, leg activation and flexibility are REALLY important in high grade steep climbing
Really interesting this! I think I'd be able to get at least 30 points for this test, but the highest I've climbed is 7a+ haha, but then again I'm not a climber
A non climber who climbs 7a+.. Me as a 6a climber is very impressed haha.
Ancient torture
Climbers often see the test score far above redpoint due to mentality and narrow scope of climbing which are not at all your weakpoints; time in the cellar is evidence of that. Does not surprise me with your toolkit to have found a few routes which genuinely work for you to reduce the pure strength needs.
Most technical climbers I find lack the immediate adaptation to the first and second exercise which a training focused climber has. Spend a few sessions doing weighted hangs and pullups, not serious training, and you would see a couple points on both.
Yeah- my thoughts too! I wasn’t training at all, just climbing a single slab for a month haha. Now I’m starting to hangboard a little and do some conditioning and after only a week I’m sure I can hang much more already.
Does anyone know what the highest score has been on the 9C climbing test? I'm curious if anyone has reach 9C yet.
Well got that wrong ! 😂
Cover of last tape 😂 Yer right. video is soo 90's 🎥📼🎬📀
If the test took into account willpower and technique, you'd be well above 8b+
9:52 🤣 lol
Do you have a video of your 8b+ send or any other hard sends? I really wanna study your technique after seeing these test results lmao
I do! It’s the climb called galactic emperor in ten sleep. The video is on my channel 💫
Prediction: 8c I have faith in you, Anna!
Wtf 120% fb! I was pretty sure that you're gonna get around your body weight or at least up to 170%. I mean, I saw you crimp soooo hard, can't believe it!! As well as the hang bar. This is crazy, I suck at climbing haha
I'm interested what happened there. 120% is incredibly weak.
Yeah I’m not actually as strong as people think! When I started hangboarding in lockdown, I could only hang 3 seconds from the lattice 20mm with my body weight! So 120% for me now, untrained and after climbing, actually feels *incredibly strong* for me
On this test i shoud be araound 8a but i have not climed higer the like 7a so sligtly mad,
cool
I think I am 100% opposite, I got 27 points (8b+) and my best Boulder is 7A.🤣
I'm so surprised about the score you got for fingerstrength. I'd assume that's the one that's always gonna be somewhat reflective of what you climb cause that seems harder to 'cheat' with good technique.
I’ve decided it’s more of a body positioning thing for me- climbing mainly slabs and vertical faces, my extreme flexibility let’s me take a ton of weight off my fingers! Just a theory
@@AnnaHazelnutt what grade can you moonboard on 40 degree overhang? i climb 7a on it with a score of 24
@@AnnaHazelnutt I'd love to see you do this test again better rested. I can't belief your finger strength result I was expecting at least 130%!
I think your finger strength score was lower than it should be because you used the lattice 20mm edge. Imo the lattice edge is significantly harder to hold than other hangboards 20mm edge bc of the larger radius
My thoughts exactly.
Ah interesting! It’s probably a mix of things including that I wasn’t training at all, I had just climbed for at least 5 hours on limit problems, and the lattice ring being a bit more difficult
@@AnnaHazelnutt came on, Anna! That's unfair, you have to redo the test well rest 😂
😂 maybe after training a bit too I can do an update hahaa
Yes. Would be very interesting to see you perform to you’re real ability’s on this. And if you don’t get to you’re 8b maybe trying to figure out which test could be added to complete the test. Some flexibility test maybe? Or some contact strenght test?
Says I’m a 7b+ climber and the most I’ve ever managed was 6c+
I’ve climbed about 100 routes between 6b and 6c and probably 500 below 6b so I don’t think it’s a technique issue. My random assumption as a 6c+ climber is the test on the lower end of the scale is off.
Do you project much? Because it sounds like you're really well established at your current grade and could likely climb harder if you put the time into a single route
Pretty sure score would have been a lot higher if you were fresh. Awesome video 👍
I predict a 78% out of B squared. (im just learning the grading system)
My momma told me never to talk weight with a girl so I'll stay silent on that one🤣
Where’s your top from!?
Wild country!
This goes to say that all that really counts is your head and climbing ability! Mega effort Anna!
What is 'climbing ability'?
At a certain level you will need strength to climb those routes. There is just no way to avoid this. The harder a problem is the more defined it usually is. If there is just a nasty one finger pocket at the crux then you have to be able to hold it if you want to climb that route.
She is a pretty good climber but if she wants to climb harder like 8c or even 9a then she has to gain strength.
@@PeterLE2 that is true, however I feel like a lot of people who start climbing want to focus on gaining strength as soon as possible. She got a lower strength result that her actual climbing grade which speaks very highly of her technique and head game. I did the test as well and got a score way above the grade I will ever be able to climb! Although strength is important I do think headgame and climbing technique will take a climber further especially in sport climbing.
really you should get extra points for being able to just casually talk about your armpits the whole time while you were hanging lol
@11:05 You thought you would make everyone equally pissed off but you never could have anticipated that one shaved arm pit is actually my thing.
You should try this test when fully recovered for accurate results. Seeing you full crimp on some routes your finger strength result here is waaaaay off, in my opinion.
On that E9 video I was cringing that my tendons would snap on those 2 finger full crimps. Definitely very very strong on closed crimps.
I agree that my closed grip is much better- but my half crimp hang is actually pretty much what you see here! Started training this a bit in lockdown and started off with 3 seconds just body weight on 20mm. This is when I was able to send 8a+ with closed crimping. I actually am quite proud of my progress and this is a really good score for me
@@AnnaHazelnutt Good point. Half crimp is not a necessity if you always full crimp and it's really a different grip. Strength doesn't translate that well across grips if you don't use them, imo. I'm the opposite. Good half to open crimp but terrible full crimp. Anyway, nice vids and good luck on your progress 🙃
9:52 ?! Lol
I had same total score and i barely can do 6b XD
26 points
Isn't that final hang harder having to hold your legs off the floor? I'd have thought it would be easier either relaxed legs or crossed legs - you'd have made 4 mins easy.
8a+, which is the grade of galactic?
Without being able to do the weighted hang, I'm maybe 7-10 points....
Does anybody else think that it's really silly that the formula uses addition. It seems like a big deficit in any area would show up in your actually climbing grade. Say you can L sit for 20 seconds, pull 130%, and hang 1:30 from a bar, but you can't hang body weight on the 20mm. The test is going to say 7b, but it'd be pretty difficult and probably injury producing to climb 7b with those weak fingers. Should be multiplication so low scores are more impactful, or an average of your scores.
This test tells you about your maximal potential on routes that suits you the most. There is lots of hard routes without crimps, or without need to pull up. Your proposition would tell about minimal difficulty that one shoudl be able to do on every route. That also could be useful, mostly for begginers, but it had to calibrated completely differently.
23 Points!
9a+
29 (8c)
9A+
29
as a ~6c climber with higher scores my technique must be shocking.
no simply the test is not accurate.
The lattice rung is harder than the beastmaker edge because it is more rounded
should retry and see if you improve
My prediction is 8a. I thini Anna has great technique and flexibility and does not rely that much on strenght
5a+
8b+
Damn I should be climbing 9a according to this, in reality I climb 7a+ my technique must be shiiiiit
9a
8c
24 🤔
I guess 26 points!
I don't feel like this point system is very accurate. It says my potential is 8a+, but my projects are 7a or 7a+.
I find it interesting that our scores/max grade climbed are flipped around, my test score said I should be able to climb 8C when in reality I’ve only ever climbed 7B. I’ve only been climbing for a year though so I think I have a lot of technique to learn still, plus I’ve never tried anything harder than 7B (my gym only sets up to 7B+ and the Craig’s around my area only go up to 7B+ although people say they’re all super sandbagged).
I'll say like 8a
21
I guess 8a (22). After a whole day climbing maybe 7c.
Almost :) Expected more finger strength, and less pull up power.
8b
2.5 min ...... points
so you did it after a full climbing session think it would be alot better if you did it fresh
I would predict, but I am still waiting for someone to make a real video on how they even create the climbing levels and how they determine them. Magnus even hasn't done it.
Seems right ? If you project a climb it’s harder then you can climb in the first few tries
29=8C
IMO, I think shaved armpits are good. My real contrarian thinking here is that guys who wear sleeveless shirts should shave their armpits too! Shave those pits guys!
Lmao I didn’t even think once about the hair in her pits til she pointed it out.
Why people care so much about pit shaving is beyond me.
Personal preference, sure. But anybody telling anybody else to shave their pits is like…really inappropriate and weird imo.
That’s be like me telling you to shave your head. Or something
8 c+ ….never mind 😂
climbing is more technique than strength and this test does not recodnise that theres a video of a 6b+ max climber got a score of 8c+ because theyre strong af but that isnt what matters
How can these tests be accurate if they don't take flexibility and coordination into account?