Crack Climber VS 9c Strength Test

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  • čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
  • This climbing test should reveal how hard you can climb. How much strength and endurance do you need to climb 9C?
    Original test with Magnus • The strength you need ...
    Exercise 1:
    Finger Strength Test. 20 mm edge (5 sec)
    - 1 Point = 100% (bodyweight)
    - 2 Points = 110%
    - 3 Points = 120%
    - 4 Points = 130 %
    - 5 Points = 140 %
    - 6 Points = 150%
    - 7 Points = 160%
    - 8 Points = 180%
    - 9 Points = 200%
    - 10 Points = 220%
    Exercise 2:
    Max Pull (One rep)
    - 1 Point = 100% (bodyweight)
    - 2 Points = 110%
    - 3 Points = 120%
    - 4 Points = 130 %
    - 5 Points = 140 %
    - 6 Points = 150%
    - 7 Points = 160%
    - 8 Points = 180%
    - 9 Points = 200%
    - 10 Points = 220%
    Exercise 3:
    - 1 Point = 10 sec L-sit (bend knees)
    - 2 Points = 20 sec L-sit (bend knees)
    - 3 Points = 30 sec L-sit (bend knees)
    - 4 Points = 10 sec L-sit
    - 5 Points = 15 sec L-sit
    - 6 Points = 20 sec L-sit
    - 7 Points = 5 sec Front Lever
    - 8 Points = 10 sec Front Lever
    - 9 Points = 20 sec Front Lever
    - 10 Points = 30 sec Front Lever
    Exercise 4:
    Hang from bar
    - 1 Point = 30 sec
    - 2 Points = 1 min
    - 3 Points = 1.5 min
    - 4 Points = 2 min
    - 5 Points = 2.5 min
    - 6 Points = 3 min
    - 7 Points = 3.5 min
    - 8 Points = 4 min
    - 9 Points = 5
    - 10 Points = 6
    Points:
    40=9c
    39=9b+
    38=9b
    37=9b
    36=9a+
    35=9a+
    34=9a
    33=9a
    32=8c+
    31=8c+
    30=8c
    29=8c
    28=8b+
    27=8b+
    26=8b
    25=8b
    24=8a+
    23=8a+
    22=8a
    21=8a
    20=7c+
    19=7c+
    18=7c
    17=7c
    16=7b+
    15=7b+
    14=7b
    13=7b
    12=7a+
    11=7a+
    10=7a
    9=7a
    8=6c+
    7=6c+
    6=6c
    5=6c
    4=6b
    3=6b
    2=6a
    1=6a
    Music - Bensound.com
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Komentáře • 539

  • @WideBoyz
    @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +52

    Visit our Wide Boyz Shop > wideboyz.com/wide-boyz-shop/

    • @carnsoaks1
      @carnsoaks1 Před 3 lety

      20 pts 7C+

    • @BatuYangHidup
      @BatuYangHidup Před 3 lety

      15:24 is that Tom's child gates up there? Haha Is he saving them for when there's a Pete junior? 🤣

  • @magmidt
    @magmidt Před 3 lety +1198

    Yessss been waiting for someone to try this!

    • @vishwasnegi5184
      @vishwasnegi5184 Před 3 lety +5

      You didn't guess

    • @targeted1948
      @targeted1948 Před 3 lety +6

      I'm still waiting for the 2 minute hang challenge on a 2" rotating bar. I'm sure you & Pete could do it, but it would be nice to see you crush it with your insane strength & endurance. Also it would be nice to see other climbers in the climbing gym attempt it also. :)

    • @anthonyclimbs3582
      @anthonyclimbs3582 Před 3 lety

      Can you please try this

    • @billding6626
      @billding6626 Před 3 lety +1

      @@anthonyclimbs3582 Did you watch the video you goon he said in it that magnus has already done it

    • @targeted1948
      @targeted1948 Před 3 lety

      @@billding6626 Of course I saw the video of Magnus & Pete complete the 2 minute challenge, but it was done on a skinny diameter spinning bar which isn't as hard as a larger 2" diameter bar. I would say the same thing if Magnus did all of his climbing videos climbing up the wall using the easier routes. There is a reason why some hang challeng locations use a 2" diameter spinning bar, because it is almost impossible for everyone that tries. Because Magnus is such a high-level athlete I'm sure that he could do it, but it would be nice to see how easy he could crush the challenge on a 2" diameter spinning bar. :)

  • @ShakespeareanBroncobuster
    @ShakespeareanBroncobuster Před 3 lety +222

    Sorry about the knee, Pete. I know that we all loved the collabs with Magnus. I think those are some of his most enjoyable videos. Great video chemistry. I hate that it happened, man. I hope that it won’t prevent you from making more videos with Magnus.

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +99

      yeh doing the vids with Magnus was really good fun! hopefully we can get a little bit of outdoor climbing in next time. we had planned to do a bit, but the weatehr was so awful we had to gym it for 3 days

    • @ShakespeareanBroncobuster
      @ShakespeareanBroncobuster Před 3 lety +25

      @@WideBoyz we’d love some outdoor vids. I know that they don’t always garner a lot of views, but those of us that climb love them

    • @tyrionas
      @tyrionas Před 3 lety +4

      @@WideBoyz hey, I hope your knee will heal nicely, when I heard that sound in Magnus' video I was like oh shit sounds like something broke. Good luck mate!

  • @freebtcforall513
    @freebtcforall513 Před 3 lety +199

    Next episode should be "Crack Climber vs Climber on Crack", could be interesting I reckon

    • @Imthedragonreborn
      @Imthedragonreborn Před 3 lety +12

      followed by "climbers vs crackers", an extreme food challenge

  • @jrblackify
    @jrblackify Před 3 lety +25

    Pete is my favorite youtube climber... he's always so genuine and lighthearted (and modest considering the badassery the he puts out there)

  • @meadoraustinr10
    @meadoraustinr10 Před 3 lety +9

    I started watching you and magnus about two weeks ago and y’all motivated me to start working out again. Watching from the North East corner of Texas!!

  • @LoveAndClimbing
    @LoveAndClimbing Před 3 lety +61

    I've commented elsewhere that there's an enormous difficulty gap between the 20 second L-sit and the 5 second front lever. I can do the 20 second L-sit, but I'm not even close to getting into the front lever--I'm not even able to do some of the exercises (such as a bent-leg front lever) that people do to work into the front lever. Given some of the amazing leavittation crack climbing stuff I've seen you do, there's absolutely no way you and I should be getting the same core score. If there's one improvement I'd make to the test, closing the gap between 6 and 7 for the core segment somehow would be the thing.

    • @iliailinsky6601
      @iliailinsky6601 Před 3 lety +12

      Front lever is really challenging for the back.The core is involved but in general it's not the limiting factor.

    • @CLANK...
      @CLANK... Před 3 lety +1

      That's very true. Bent leg FL seems like the best intermediate exercise. So maybe bin off the 15/20sec L sit and instead have 5/10sec bent knee FL? Could be better (and more conducive to climbing movement) 🤷‍♂️

    • @LB-uw5cy
      @LB-uw5cy Před 3 lety

      Isn't front lever easier if you're shorter as well?

    • @TheValinov
      @TheValinov Před 3 lety

      10 30 60s should be the L-sit scale... i also wonder how a front lever should convert into good climbing. all those moves that are close to this contain dynamics and/or feet interactions with the wall...

    • @16m49x3
      @16m49x3 Před 2 lety

      Can't you use some kind of rubber band?

  • @ardahatunoglu
    @ardahatunoglu Před 3 lety +34

    you guys should prepare a crack climbing test! Depending on your result you'd know what's your crack climbing grade is!!

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +20

      Yes, i think we should make one of these up

    • @danieljensen2626
      @danieljensen2626 Před 3 lety +1

      Yeah, that would be fun

    • @GiovanniPaladini10
      @GiovanniPaladini10 Před 3 lety +1

      @@WideBoyz This is history in the making

    • @leoingson
      @leoingson Před 3 lety

      @@WideBoyz Make all them Japanese do the test, then!

    • @TheValinov
      @TheValinov Před 3 lety

      @@WideBoyz will one of the tests be without chalk? for european sandstone comparison reasons...

  • @patrickfunk9102
    @patrickfunk9102 Před 3 lety +21

    Came for the climbing, stayed for the personality’s! 👌🏻 Awesome content!

  • @cvurko
    @cvurko Před 3 lety +5

    Wow, Mari is such a beast!
    Hope for a speedy knee recovery, Pete. Cheers.

  • @The-VVhite-Crow
    @The-VVhite-Crow Před 3 lety +85

    Mari is like: "Frontlever? Wait a second and let me grab my heaviest boots."
    And @Pete; hope your your knee is getting better fast. :/ Even watching the video after that noise was painfull.

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +31

      thanks, yes knee is getting there :) I replied to some other comments (which are pretty high up on the comment list about the knee situation). It's all very kind of you guys to be asking about my knee, haha! I've had so many people asking I can't keep up with the messages!

    • @Nopp3
      @Nopp3 Před 3 lety +1

      @@WideBoyz was about to ask the same.
      good to hear its getting better.

  • @patrickjosephrogan9714
    @patrickjosephrogan9714 Před 3 lety +148

    How's the knee Pete? ouch!

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +198

      5 weeks on from doing it. made good improvements. I was 1 footed climbing for a while, and now i'm back to two foot climbing and controlled bouldering. Its only specific movements i can't do. Got a rehab and exercise program going. should be all good i hope, I just have to not get over excited now i've made good progress intially :) thanks for asking

    • @patrickjosephrogan9714
      @patrickjosephrogan9714 Před 3 lety +5

      @@WideBoyz I enjoy the videos. Good to hear Ur rehabbing well. Looking forward to seeing you back. PS crack climbing is scary 🤣

    • @Xeno87
      @Xeno87 Před 3 lety +2

      @@WideBoyz Sorry, english isn't my native language and I have trouble understanding this line: "5 weeks on from doing it." Does this mean it has been 5 weeks since your injury, or that it will take 5 weeks until it's healed?

    • @WisdomThroughGod
      @WisdomThroughGod Před 3 lety +6

      @@Xeno87 He had the injury 5 weeks ago. And he has been rehabbing the injury since then

    • @jrodericklane
      @jrodericklane Před 3 lety +2

      Was the LCL completely torn?

  • @Sinfaroth
    @Sinfaroth Před 3 lety +15

    This high pitched bell is really irritating. When I turn my head I can here it is part of the background music, but just watching the video it sounds like an electrical device somewhere in my room.

  • @BigBigFlo
    @BigBigFlo Před 3 lety +5

    Nice video Pete! After watching you do the test I see we have something in common, I too can touch my nose with my tongue! I wished it would have been my climbing but well.. a skill is a skill!

  • @Stefanson100
    @Stefanson100 Před 3 lety +8

    Would love to see Adam Ondra and Alex Megos do the Test!

    • @lawleight626
      @lawleight626 Před 3 lety

      the test was said to be based on alex megos training in the original

  • @gekquad116
    @gekquad116 Před 3 lety +2

    I love the idea of a trick test. That’d be fun to watch. Also keep cranking out the content! Been loving it.

  • @mrbasketbal98
    @mrbasketbal98 Před 3 lety +65

    Anybody else read this as "Crack Climber Very Severe 9c" and get very confused at that grading?

    • @joseflittle4493
      @joseflittle4493 Před 3 lety +2

      Haha yes

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +6

      haha i hadn't actually thought that, but makes sense. maybe it should have been Crack Climber (H)VS 9c Strength Test

    • @ericafung2526
      @ericafung2526 Před 3 lety +2

      I read this as "Crack Climber Victoria's Secret 9c"

    • @pauljepson1249
      @pauljepson1249 Před 3 lety +2

      I assumed it was Scottish.

  • @pastrop2003
    @pastrop2003 Před 3 lety +8

    Very inspirational in terms of firing me up for training and deeply depressing in terms of what I can actually do at the moment...Guess I have to sign up for that Lattice Training thing :)

  • @Xskaface13X
    @Xskaface13X Před 3 lety +6

    "Off width climbing pumps you in your soul!" LOL!! I'm dying!!
    My partner and I are going to do this test tomorrow!! Thanks Magnus and Pete for getting us psyched!!

  • @alfrednOObel2
    @alfrednOObel2 Před 3 lety +15

    Turns out I'm overtrained and underskilled. I've got 8a from the test, but my max is 7b.

    • @TheValinov
      @TheValinov Před 3 lety +5

      get on my level! 7c on the test, 6a in reality.

  • @oleshikaru
    @oleshikaru Před 3 lety +1

    Mari is super charming. well done on the tests! hope your knee is better, Pete. I had the same thing happen to my knee once a few years back. took little while to heal properly.

  • @NOTYOU0BVIOUSLY
    @NOTYOU0BVIOUSLY Před 3 lety +7

    Definitely try this again when you're feeling more fit, I think you could get 9a, especially if you practice front levers a bit

  • @user-gn4dl1sn1s
    @user-gn4dl1sn1s Před 3 lety +3

    Hi guys!
    We are a small team of beginner climbers tried the test and here are our results:
    Misha - level 6c/7a; got 20 points - 7c+
    Sasha - level 6a; got 14 points - 7b
    Varya - level 6b; got 15 points - 7b+
    Oleg - level 6a; got 10 points - 7a
    Tanya - level 6a/6a+; got 9 points - 7a
    Pasha - level 6c/7a; got 15 points - 7b+
    Our conclusion - Technique in rock climbing is definitely the key!

  • @xxconorcregan
    @xxconorcregan Před 3 lety

    This may be the most banging video on the channel. Edits were supreme. Well done

  • @ronaldb6417
    @ronaldb6417 Před 3 lety +4

    There is some sort of alarm clock sound in the music. It really grinds my gears

  • @onyxdemeraude2412
    @onyxdemeraude2412 Před 3 lety +1

    It's always good to see your vids. I was hoping to see you do this test, after I saw Magnus do it, and I haven't been decieved! (Talking about him, I saw your replies in other comments about that knee injury. Good to see it's getting better!)

  • @Route_2_V11
    @Route_2_V11 Před 3 lety +98

    Pete, hows the knee? hope you doing well man!

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +122

      5 weeks on from doing it. made good improvements. I was 1 footed climbing for a while, and now i'm back to two foot climbing and controlled bouldering. Its only specific movements i can't do. Got a rehab and exercise program going. should be all good i hope, I just have to not get over excited now i've made good progress intially :) thanks for asking

    • @joaopedroberlim6452
      @joaopedroberlim6452 Před 3 lety

      @@WideBoyz how long until you're at 100%

    • @danieljensen2626
      @danieljensen2626 Před 3 lety +1

      @@WideBoyz Glad to hear it's going fairly well. Keep being careful about recovery!

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +30

      @@joaopedroberlim6452 a 100% strength at doing the same type as move as how i injured it is probably 6 months. But I can do a whole load of other stuff and climbing with no problems at all before this. I mean I can climb now, i just can't do deep rock overs or heel hooks on the left side, which means i just have to pull with my arms a bit harder...so in theory i'm actually hoping to come back having got stronger ;) because at the moment I can't technique my way around some things, haha

    • @Route_2_V11
      @Route_2_V11 Před 3 lety +10

      @@WideBoyz Thats great to hear! i really cringed when i heard those pops in magnus's video. And also the confusion on your face, felt really bad. Anyway, great to hear you are doing well, Cheers from the netherlands!

  • @sessionmediaa
    @sessionmediaa Před 3 lety

    I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR A VIDEO LIKE THIS FOR SOOOOO LONG!!!! Yes Pete!!! This is the best video yet!!!!!

  • @AntoniGawlikowski
    @AntoniGawlikowski Před 2 lety

    Great video and really nice editing - I must say that Wide Boyz' skills in the area of video production have come a long way an it shows!
    Thanks for the video and all the best in the New Year!

  • @HaleyMorganB
    @HaleyMorganB Před 3 lety

    This is the content I needed today. TYSM

  • @nicktolhurst4478
    @nicktolhurst4478 Před 3 lety +5

    Them socks! Love it. 😅

  • @chub2000asdaq
    @chub2000asdaq Před 3 lety +7

    Would be interesting to see what happens to the actual climbing grade that you can send if you just trained to maxed out the 4 different aspects of the test 🤔

  • @spencershields9186
    @spencershields9186 Před 3 lety +4

    Don't let Tom know you did this instead of the Lattice test, you'll break his heart.

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +8

      might do the lattice test to see what I come out at, haha!

  • @pietroriva7277
    @pietroriva7277 Před 3 lety +4

    Those 6 minutes must have felt an eternity

  • @Benkkuful
    @Benkkuful Před 3 lety +5

    4:26 Nice

  • @Madness200Gaming
    @Madness200Gaming Před 3 lety +5

    what I've learnt from this is just how bad my technique is then. the test being bang on accurate for you while best I've lead it 6c but test said I had strength for 7c. so time to work on movement and mentality I think.

    • @MarkusSojakka
      @MarkusSojakka Před 3 lety +1

      My gave 8c (only 3 min hang :( ) and I have never tryed sport climbing

    • @Madness200Gaming
      @Madness200Gaming Před 3 lety

      @@MarkusSojakka dam that's a great score tho. Maybe try it out and see how close to that score you can get

    • @MarkusSojakka
      @MarkusSojakka Před 3 lety

      @@Madness200Gaming I am not really intrested in sport climbing, but maybe I will try the hardest route in Finland at some point ( 8c+).

    • @Madness200Gaming
      @Madness200Gaming Před 3 lety

      @@MarkusSojakka fair enough if you stick to what you enjoy that's a great way to ensure motivating. But always suggest trying the different aspects of climbing.

  • @ShaoSeh1
    @ShaoSeh1 Před 3 lety +1

    Very motivating video! I was inspired and tried it out myself. So last spring I climbed my first 7c and after a lot of lockdown strength training, the test says 8a+ for me. Soooo, super psyched for the coming spring!

    • @dalivanwyngarden3204
      @dalivanwyngarden3204 Před 2 lety

      How did it turn out?

    • @ShaoSeh1
      @ShaoSeh1 Před 2 lety +1

      @@dalivanwyngarden3204 Quite bad :D I was way too motivated and got my shoulders inflamated, resulting in a 4 month break and rehab afterwards. Currently I can climb again, but it‘s a slow process to go get the strength back without getting injured again

    • @dalivanwyngarden3204
      @dalivanwyngarden3204 Před 2 lety

      @@ShaoSeh1 I‘m sorry to hear that. That happened to me before the lockdown hahah I didn’t really listen to my body and had some injures due to that that couldn’t heal cuz I was continuing climbing, so it was really good for me to had a pause. It was really tough to start slowly again this summer tho :D
      Keep it up! Hope you get to your old level and better soon :)

  • @clown5911
    @clown5911 Před 3 lety +2

    Wow I got 11 points which comes up at 7a+/5.12a, but the highest I've red pointed was a 6b+/5.11a indoors and that was a strugglefest. Outdoor my max is 6b/5.10d. I do a lot more bouldering than sport climbing though. My max ever bouldering was 6c/v5 indoor, 6b/v3 outdoor. Not sure how boulder grades compare to sport grades, but based on my score I think I need to drop some weight and work on some endurance and technique lol...
    Hope the knee is alright Pete!

  • @PB-sk9jn
    @PB-sk9jn Před 3 lety +10

    8b+, I think pete's technique is better than his strength.

  • @jameskim4635
    @jameskim4635 Před 3 lety

    Praying for your quick recovery. That crack was real scary to hear.

  • @DIYToPen
    @DIYToPen Před 3 lety +5

    That l sit hold to front lever hold is the craziest jump in difficulty.

    • @TheMasterMacc
      @TheMasterMacc Před 3 lety

      I think thats one of the hardest things to stack. Going for a V-Sit would be limited by flexibility. Going for a full front lever from a 20s L-Sit is quite the increase in difficulty especially for your lats.
      But a high end climber is probably on the way to achieve a front lever. I can hold a tuck FL for about 7s, but thats not limited by my core strength.

  • @weggimbuoe
    @weggimbuoe Před 3 lety +1

    I have two problems with this test:
    1. Hanging (endurance test) with thumb over or under can make a big difference depending how strong your thumb is. Magnus got 4.28 min with thumb over and 4.13 min with thumb under (On a norwegian show). I'm not saying Pete lacks endurance, but it would be interesting to see how he would score with thumb over.
    2. To do a front lever is much more depend on you lats and back strength than the strength of your core muscles. If you can do 15 sec of v-sits, your abs are probably strong enough to do 10-15 sec of front lever.

  • @brendanacord2557
    @brendanacord2557 Před 3 lety +1

    Some thoughts on the test:
    1. It’s a proxy for climbing strength but doesn’t account for technique, this was stressed by Magnus in his video
    2. Because of 1 it’s probably much more applicable and accurate for advanced level climbers (like you both, and Magnus and the guys who invented the test)
    3. I’m a rubbish climber, but have good core strength so did the L-sit for 20 seconds just fine but both hanging exercises crushed me, so my thought is if you have one or two of four where you excel then it is skewing the score and it would give an over inflated score for novices like me

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety

      Yes I agree with this :) the test results are only going to show resonable results if you have some basic technique and don't completely max on some areas and fail at others. for exmaple calithenics folks and gymnasts would get much higher grades than they would be able to climb. their finger strength score would be very low which is one of the most important factors in climbing, yet their front lever would be impressive, which is much less important creating a bit of an invalid score

  • @Efretpkk
    @Efretpkk Před 3 lety +8

    69kg, oh man I have fat to burn. That was motivational, thanks

    • @stanante
      @stanante Před 3 lety

      Having COVID back in March shaved off 6kg for me. Try that? Please excuse my humour. Couldn't resist

  • @tommyinthe8ir
    @tommyinthe8ir Před 3 lety +3

    6min Hang is impressive, but we knew that that's your strenght. You're a fighter

  • @IdDuncan
    @IdDuncan Před 3 lety

    Love your belt Mari :) I have the same :)! Hope you are doing well Pete and I am sure you will go hard again soon, wish you the best.

  • @jjhouse09ify
    @jjhouse09ify Před 3 lety

    music makes it like a constant alarm clock going off lol

  • @Ukfreestyler
    @Ukfreestyler Před 3 lety +3

    I’m gonna predict 9a+ before watching the rest. Can’t believe that Magnus is 5weeks behind with his vlogs, saw you comment below. Hope your knee is back to 100% soon ;) can’t believe how it happened, didn’t even look like you were straining.

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +5

      you've gotta keep some content in the bank, so you have something to fall back on when all the gyms close, haha

    • @Ukfreestyler
      @Ukfreestyler Před 3 lety +1

      Wide Boyz think he just snuck a cheeky holiday in. Thought u were still in Norway until you posted a new vid. More videos of you two ahead? :D yes, can’t believe we’re still left without gyms for a while yet, lucky to be able to sneak out for a boulder in the gower when it’s dry :) curious, have you climbed at tremadog before? If so did you do Neb direct? Crack climb ;)

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +2

      @@Ukfreestyler yes climbed at tremadog a whole bunch. And yes done neb direct. That's a good little crack classic 💪

    • @Ukfreestyler
      @Ukfreestyler Před 3 lety

      Nice to think you’ve done it ;) I did the pitches up to the roof like 10 years ago as it looked cool, realised I’m not a crack climber and how big the roof was and decided to finish with the E1 instead on the left lol.

    • @Ukfreestyler
      @Ukfreestyler Před 3 lety +1

      Ps: I’m sure you did finger licker E4 too!

  • @AndrewandPaul
    @AndrewandPaul Před 3 lety

    Sorry about your knee! Same exact thing happened to me a few months ago and it took quite a while for it to feel normal again. Hope you are feeling well soon.

  • @il24ir
    @il24ir Před 3 lety

    This was edited really well and made the test very easy to understand. I didn't really know what was going on in the Magnus video.

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety

      Glad you liked it! thanks

  • @robert.hucknall
    @robert.hucknall Před rokem

    Ah yes, the classic british grade of VS 9c, I'd love to see you try the E11 3a sketch test next

  • @toni_Menorca
    @toni_Menorca Před 3 lety

    Great editing 👌

  • @joshuaw.9649
    @joshuaw.9649 Před rokem +1

    For beginners and intermediate climbers you have to cap your score at the finger strength test.
    For example: Before I started climbing I could do a 4 min hang, 5 sec front lever and 150% pull up. My fingers would have only got to level 1... but my score would be a 5.12c or 7b level climber.
    NOW I can only get to level 2 on the finger test if I cap the rest at 2 (2+2+2+2=8) I get a 5.11 or 6b+ (at best I've done 5.10c but I'm sure better technique could carry me another grade or 2)
    That's totally realistic for my strength. There's no way I'm climbing 7a routes just because I can do a front lever

  • @PB-sk9jn
    @PB-sk9jn Před 11 měsíci

    The odd socks are hilarious, and Mari deliberately showed it off while saying nothing other than "proof you are lifting your legs".
    She was zooming in deliberately.

  • @danieljensen2626
    @danieljensen2626 Před 3 lety +3

    Maybe Pete needs to watch Magnus's front lever tutorial to clean up that form 😜 Seems like you could train up to it pretty easily though since you at least held it.

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +1

      my form was bloody awful, defintiely not acceptable, hahah

  • @roguenyenyezi
    @roguenyenyezi Před 3 lety

    9a for sure! Really hope the knee heals man.. I feel for you

  • @kompetenteente9814
    @kompetenteente9814 Před 3 lety +2

    Its such an advantage if you are able to hang with the thumb pressing on the indexfinger. I think that makes a huge differnece

    • @TesterAnimal1
      @TesterAnimal1 Před 3 lety

      That’s to be avoided during training.
      The full crimp with arched fingers which that thumb involved diverts force through the knuckles and pulley ligaments.
      Half crimp transmits the force longitudinally through the tendons into the fkexor muscles.

    • @kompetenteente9814
      @kompetenteente9814 Před 3 lety

      Yes but i ment pete when he was hanging at the bar. Not the crimp

  • @tilenmoder
    @tilenmoder Před 3 lety +11

    That front lever 5s was OK, that should give you 9a :)

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +9

      definitely dubious. front levering is a weird one, if I just do it for a few weeks I can get it back reasonably easily, but if i've been off it for a few months its about as ropey as it looked in the vid, haha!

    • @Borsoo13
      @Borsoo13 Před 3 lety +1

      ​@@WideBoyz that part of the test is not very accurate though. there's a huge gap between 20s L-sit and 5s front lever

  • @targeted1948
    @targeted1948 Před 3 lety +1

    Pete & Magnus have incredible grip/hang strength. Tazio Biondo “The Italian Butterfly” isn’t bad at hanging either! LOL
    I would like to see if you and other CZcamsrs can do a 2 minute hang challenge using a 2” rotating bar. You & Magnus did a hang challenge video using an easier “Skinny Bar”, but I’d like you & Magnus step-it-up & use a 2” diameter bar than spins like some of the harder Hang Challenges locations have. I’m sure that you & Magnus could do it, but I’d like to see a video showing the difference in difficultly in the bar size for you guys, and Mari too if she can do it.
    If you can’t figure out how to do the challenge to a 2” diameter bar you could copy my rotating bar setup that I made to practice at home. It is a wood pole the same 2” diameter as 2 minute challenge at Knott’s Berry Farm Amusement Park in CA USA that I go to. It sits on top of my square pullup bar frame & has two U-shaped muffler clamps bolted over the top of the square pullup frame on each side of wood pole on both ends to hold it in place, but still allows it to spin. I got the muffler clamps at an auto parts store and the pole from “Home Depot” home improvement store. The bar only contacts the pullup bar frame on both sides & there is little contact between the bar & tops of the “U shaped” muffler clamps, so not allot of resistance to keep in from spinning. (With ball bearings it would be even harder)
    A larger diameter bar is more difficult since you can't get your fingers around the bar as much & you can’t place your thumb over your finger to keep the bar from rotating. Using a larger diameter bar means that your forearms must hold your wrist in that position to keep the bar from rotating. It causes your forearms to fatigue quicker due to the wrist/muscle being flexed & since it must support your full body weight for 2 min.
    Knott’s Berry Farm Amusement Park where I go uses a 2” over-sized spinning bar:
    Google “Knott's Berry Farm Hang Time - Hang for 120 second” and you will see a 6 year old girl complete the 2 min challenge on a 2” spinning bar, she is amazing! She had to hang from a “false-grip” for 2 min while the bar kept spinning! I’ve seen some adults only last 10-20 seconds. I’ve completed the Knott’s hang challenge many times (I have a yearly pass) and I’ve never seen anyone else complete it while I was there. The video of the 6 year old girl the only other successful attempt that I’ve seen. I saw one teenager fall off the bar with 1 second left!
    Google “2 minutes hang challenge! (possible?)” to see how most average adults do at the challenge.

  • @Nick-B78
    @Nick-B78 Před 3 lety

    Good job, well done 👏

  • @Velonomer
    @Velonomer Před 3 lety

    nice one! i like that test a lot. for me it showed where i could be if i had better technic and less fear of falling. as my pr onesight and redpoint grade are far below the score from the test showed.

  • @benja_mint
    @benja_mint Před 3 lety +1

    such a huge step up from 20 sec l-hang to 5 sec front lever

  • @leoingson
    @leoingson Před 3 lety

    "Offwidth is like pumping your soul". Thanks Mari.

  • @fbimagesphoto
    @fbimagesphoto Před 3 lety +2

    8c, now watching!

  • @jipe4153
    @jipe4153 Před 3 lety +1

    Point deduction on the pullup for kipping 😘
    Love the vids!

  • @petewhittington9399
    @petewhittington9399 Před 3 lety +22

    First comment?
    I predict 8a, nothing is harder than 8a, right? Maybe 7c+. Why'd you need more?

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +5

      "nothing is harder than 8a in the cellar" haha!!

    • @Thrusthamster
      @Thrusthamster Před 3 lety

      I got 7c+ on this test, and I barely climb 6b. My bet: Pete's going to get 8c

    • @moonti6820
      @moonti6820 Před 3 lety +1

      ​@@Thrusthamster You sir may lack technique and tactics with a score that high and a max climbed sport grade at 6b. Are you perhaps a newcomer to the sport ?

    • @Thrusthamster
      @Thrusthamster Před 3 lety

      @@moonti6820 I definitely lack technique and head game. I'm just always too scared to push hard on lead or high off the ground so I've never been able to get properly past that hurdle. 🤷‍♂️

    • @moonti6820
      @moonti6820 Před 3 lety +1

      @@Thrusthamster Ho right, I haven't though of the mental game and the fear of falling. All the climbers I know (including myself) have had to overcome it in a way or another at some time, it's not forever !

  • @lukasreuter4690
    @lukasreuter4690 Před 3 lety +3

    4:26 just commenting for the meme

  • @marcellomazzoleni7159
    @marcellomazzoleni7159 Před 3 lety

    I was way off. Sorry I doubted you sir and such a bummer about the knee. Hope you heel fast!

  • @Bobbzorzen
    @Bobbzorzen Před 3 lety +7

    based on the grades of the cellar projects i'm gonna predict 7B, that's the hardest cellar project sofar right? :P

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +4

      7B boulder, 8a route, haha

    • @Bobbzorzen
      @Bobbzorzen Před 3 lety

      @@WideBoyz ah, right! my bad :P

  • @alimousavi6720
    @alimousavi6720 Před 3 lety

    thanks for the video

  • @simonsilva250
    @simonsilva250 Před 3 lety

    Cool concept

  • @lawleight626
    @lawleight626 Před 3 lety

    that intro was hilarious mate

  • @usmania187
    @usmania187 Před 3 lety

    Chest to the bar on the pull ups lad!

  • @Jaysthudandblunder
    @Jaysthudandblunder Před 2 lety

    My immediate thought was 9a, and then within seconds you're discounting it. Oh well I'll stick with 9a.

  • @Leandroltz
    @Leandroltz Před 3 lety

    Hey Pete, i really hope you recover your knee quickly! You are a beast and an inspiration! My guess before watching is that you're going to get 8c grade.

  • @andrewgilbertson5356
    @andrewgilbertson5356 Před 3 lety +22

    Magnus has had a bad influence on Pete!

  • @cedricradloff8152
    @cedricradloff8152 Před 3 lety +1

    Bruh that 6m hang though

  • @Putzinator
    @Putzinator Před rokem

    MY GUESS BEFORE WATCHING AND 2 YEARS LATE: 8C to 8C+ baby! I think front levers are gonna be hard, 10 sec max. 160% body weight pullup and 5sec hang. 45 minute hang obviously. Right around 30-32 points.
    EDIT: Yo I was spot on! Also you did a 5sec front lever which gave you 7 points and a total of 32 me boy! Good job to both of you!

  • @generichuman_
    @generichuman_ Před 3 lety

    The thumbnail is 10 year old me when my mom says we have to leave the playground

  • @HourRomanticist
    @HourRomanticist Před 3 lety +1

    So much quieter than with magnus lol

  • @2sloth
    @2sloth Před 3 lety

    I adapted this to use 4 times the Harmonic Mean of the results of the four tests.
    This penalises climbers that are not balanced in their performance across the tests, e.g:
    Normal scoring of test: 4 x mean(10,10,1,1)=22 --> 8a
    Harmonic mean scoring: 4 x harMean(10,10,1,1)=7 --> 6c+
    I've no idea of the merit in this, but I 'feel' like a balanced test result should result in a higher predicted grade

  • @pugilemoltobene3708
    @pugilemoltobene3708 Před 3 lety

    @ :45 - alpine vs tech - two VERY different skillsets

  • @samhparker
    @samhparker Před 3 lety +1

    This was super fun to watch! I gotta try it now. How long did this take to do time-wise? And how much time did you give yourselves to rest in between? I'm just curious what is considered allowable for resting vs getting too much of a break in between the exercises.

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +1

      Took a couple of hours. Take a good rest between exercises. You want two be recovered. Do exercises in the order we do them 👍

  • @ferrells0987
    @ferrells0987 Před 3 lety +1

    9a+, Pete. I haven't finished the video and I think it's going to tell you that you can climb 9a+

  • @gigglysamentz2021
    @gigglysamentz2021 Před 3 lety

    Congrats on the scores guys!

  • @nicolascarmel4130
    @nicolascarmel4130 Před 3 lety +1

    8B+
    Love You from Quebec!

  • @killermiller6666
    @killermiller6666 Před 3 lety

    the beeping sound is killing it

  • @krisscott5604
    @krisscott5604 Před 2 lety

    I'm predicting 8b+! now let's watch xD

  • @christinastracquodaine3057

    God I adore Pete.

  • @Fred-oz3tw
    @Fred-oz3tw Před 3 lety

    seems like you have excellent technique

  • @djvugts5510
    @djvugts5510 Před 2 lety

    little late nm me. finger strenght: 6 point
    pull up: 5 points
    hang test and L: 20 points
    total: 31 point

  • @Bobbzorzen
    @Bobbzorzen Před 3 lety +2

    i'd 100% watch a tricks test

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +1

      it needs to be done. someone also mentioned a Crack Climbing test as well, so we might have to think up one of those in the coming weeks

    • @WideBoyz
      @WideBoyz  Před 3 lety +1

      maybe a trick test with Mari and a crack climbing test with Tom :)

  • @davidthomas1424
    @davidthomas1424 Před 2 lety

    OK Pete. I go with 8c+ . I love the very gentle "come on" @ 1' 55" .. and would love to know where all the 9cs are with holds like these ;) Good fun.

  • @nashvillain171
    @nashvillain171 Před 3 lety

    You may score better on the hanging if the bar is higher and you don't have to hold your legs up.

  • @zackbartlett2141
    @zackbartlett2141 Před 3 lety

    Before watching whole vid, I reckon you're going to get a solid 8b+ or more.
    Smash it Pete!

  • @sebacaine6974
    @sebacaine6974 Před 3 lety

    Lol ah man. Ya'll had me seriously feeling bad for a second there lol. When you said the weighted pullups were based on how much weight you had strapped on and showed the scale I was over here like "What?! I have to strap on 180 lbs to get 1 point??!?!?! There's no way." Lol phew. Had me worried. Trying to be somewhat in shape over here but that would have been disheartening.

  • @moonti6820
    @moonti6820 Před 3 lety +1

    I predict a 9a score ! let's see :)
    Edit: well I might have been a bit too optimist for your score.
    By the way I scored 8a and thus I haven't climbed above that grade already (I do 8a in 3 to 6 tries), I feel like I can climb harder routes by just putting more time in redpointing them, That's why I though this test would produce a higher score than what you're capable of now.

  • @skullboy1407
    @skullboy1407 Před 3 lety

    She did so well!

  • @sarahclarke1550
    @sarahclarke1550 Před 2 lety

    Pete: This is a test to see what grade you should be climbing
    Me: oh great, lets see what I should push myself to next time I climb
    Pete: Lists exercises
    Me: well that is probably a maximum of 2 points for me if I'm lucky! I'm currently working at a ~50% pullup.
    Oh well plenty to aim for! lol

  • @aliugur3488
    @aliugur3488 Před 3 lety

    Pete Withtaker is the Magnus Midtbø 2.0