How strong am I supposed to be? 💪🏽 Finger Strength Analysis 🖐🏽
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Were your predictions correct?! AND if you go ahead and try it, let me know how it goes!!!
I've been wanting to do something like this after a multi-month projecting stint for SO LONG cause I'm always so darn curious how zero training impacts my strength.
Strength assessments are always extremely interesting for me because historically, they've put me at a grade much lower than the one I'm at. This is usually due to my technique, style (ie slab), flexibility, and other non-quantitative metrics that are so darn difficult to capture in a strength test.
Here's the website if you're curious: strengthclimbi...
I'm quite surprised with my results and performance to be honest. I just figured I must be physically quite weak right now because I'e been almost exclusively climbing outdoor slabs for months (aside from indoor CZcams collabs, that is).
0:48 explanation of test
2:33 14mm edge test
5:22 8mm edge test
6:27 pull-ups
8:05 predictions
9:18 analysis
13:16 why might the scores be inaccurate?
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#fingerstrength #8mmedge #fingerstrengthanalysis
Hanging an 8mm for 20 seconds is seriously impressive, at least given your 14mm max hang. I know tons of people that climb V10 that can barely hang the 8mm edge for 5 seconds. But they’re not doing bold, hard, crimpy slab, so it makes sense
Is hand size a serious factor in this kind of stuff?
@@nilsp9426 ofcourse it is (finger length). People just dont like to talk about it in climbing, only popular thing to use as an excuse is being short
@@nilsp9426 i know for myself as a man with relatively small hands (good for small holds) - i can squise in a bit more than one finger pad in at 15mm and it makes HUGE difference if i do manage to put part of joint on the hold.
@@nilsp9426 Hand size and bodyweight are all important factors when in comes to small edges. A 60 Kg climber will not have the same experience of a 80 Kg one when all your weight rests on less than half of a finger pad :D
How can she even think she has not strong fingers!?! I know we always want to hear that we are doing way better than we are supposed to do but this is offensive 😂
Feels like there's an entire world of climbing between V7 and V10 :'). The analysis you make of it is really interesting though! It makes a lot of sense that hard slab would be lower weight smaller edges and maybe more endurance (?) that burly overhangs with pull up potential. Keep it up!
Do NOT let Magnus know that you didn't perform better with shirt off! On a more serious note, the app is sort of "interesting" in how it does calculations. Given my metrics if I say I never hangboard it says V9 (bodyweight 10mm for 10 secs), if I say I hangboard twice a week it drops to V3. Seems fishy. There is no way someone can hold a 10 mm edge for even a second and only boulder V3. Many of the settings seems to give...well...suspicious results. I'd still love to see you do a (full) Lattice assessment and make a collab vid with Tom and the boys. Tell him you'll knock off one of the dinners he owes you for a free assessment. ;)
Woooooaaah that’s a huge difference between regularly hangboarding and not! Hmmm. Is this because the test is assuming if you’re just climbing outside, you might have higher outdoor grades cause you’re more used to outdoor climbing? That’s strange- I would assume a grade difference but not 6 grades lol. I have to play around with the options more
Trueee lol. Yeah we totally ran out of time pushing our projects to the last possible minute haha. Next time I come back I’ll force Tom to give me a lattice assessment lol
Errr... I can hold 8mm for 5 seconds but generally top out V3 outdoor and V4 indoor?
@@paulcartwright840 some people do have crazy strong fingers but other areas need more work which is holding them back, thats very impressive though at 8mm for 5 secs, I am sure you could climb harder grades with projecting and focusing on weak points
@@paulcartwright840 also chiming in at ten seconds on 8mm and V4s are pushing it for me. possible, but projecting. I wonder what being a V7 climber is like but it does not seem to be in the cards for me.
Cool to see that people are making accurate tools for tracking progress in your sport.
It’s not totally accurate… but it’s not as far off as I assumed it would be!
Hey thanks for sharing this resource. I just did the test today because I was curious to see my own results and I'd say it's pretty accurate. I landed more or less where I expected. Great job Anna. I've seen you in a lot of other channels but this video was the one that earned you a new subscriber😊. Keep up the good work. It's nice seeing someone tackle on really hard slabs for a change
Nice Perry
Ahh hell yes! Thank you haha
Hey Anna. Have you seen the Lattice videos with Hazel and Angus from April 2022? Dave Mac has some good stuff on this as well. Keep bossing the slab girl!
Am I the only Polish fan of Anna Hazelnutt here? ;) Jedrzej is a Polish name (not very popular these days) and it sounds similar to "Yendgey" (dg as in "edge") or "Jendgey" as you got the first letter right. Although, now that I wrote this comment I'm not sure if your "I know how much that matters" wasn't ironic 😆 Anyway, keep up with good work and positive attitude 🤣
Omg no it wasn’t ironic! It’s just that no one can say my name right so it was a heartfelt comment haha. Thank you!
I had ran across this particular test a while ago, and it basically said I had weaksauce fingers and needed to get hangboarding more, which turned out to be pretty accurate. I’m the opposite of you in terms of power as well (my style is big powerful slopery moves on like 30 degrees and I can pullup ~80% bw added as a 1RM) but it spit out an accurate rating, which has continued to be accurate as I climb. Awesome video Anna!
What's also interesting about this test is, your body dimensions actually contributes to the grade the test predicts for you. If I put in the same test result numbers (14mm +10kg 7 sec) as Anna, but with my own body dimensions (160cm, span 156, 48kg), I only get a prediction of V5 as opposed to Anna's V7 prediction. So basically it's saying if you're shorter, you'd have to be stronger to climb the same grade as someone who's just as strong but taller (supposedly even taken into consideration that 10 kg is a bigger percentage of my body weight).
Woooooaaaaah that’s such a big jump! I guess they’re making a statement that height really matters, but I feel like it could make sense because a lot of climbs are opened by men who are tall and graded for their body type
@@AnnaHazelnutt I think it's awesome that the test is reflecting the difference body dimensions make in climbing, especially if their algorithm/model is based on real climbers' data. As for climbs being graded for the route developers' body type, it almost feels inevitable. Grading is such a subjective thing after all...at least for now!
Is it just measuring fingers strength in absolute terms, rather than relative to you. If you put your height the same but put Anna's weight does it give the same?
@@R3FL3XSN1P3R That's an interesting point. I just tried what you suggested, using my body dimensions with Anna's weight actually yields an even lower predicted grade. That actually makes sense to me since with the same height/span but having to pull even more weight is probably gonna be harder. I think measuring in relative terms makes more sense than in absolute terms, ie. weight relative to your own body weight vs just the straight up overall weight, since when you climb you're mostly just pulling your own weight.
@@Laura147HLY another consideration is that it provides a percentage of grades rather than a "top expected grade" or similar. Because of that your percentages would likely be changed by boulders that would just be way harder due to arms not fitting between the holds or other issues. While your max grade may actually be the same, assuming you have a reasonable pool of candidates.
I just played around with this test and must say that it is surprisingly accurate! More hangboard time for me I guess 😂
Love the Hot Rod reference!
Interesting, I also think killer foot work and flexibility are key! Those calzones/naan bread looked tasty 😋
True! Flexibility is huge I think, especially for sport and trad
I am a very newbie climber, but I have been really fascinated to discover what grade of bouldering and top rope climbs I am able to do VS unable to do/take a lot of effort and work to get past. Notably, under cling's are currently the bane of my existence. But maybe that'll change with time. We shall see!
Super interesting! I can hang a bit more weight on a 15mm edge than ana, but I'm absolutely hopeless on a wooden 8mm. I can maybe squeak out 5s on a 10mm. Crazy how strength metrics aren't the be all end all in climbing. Great video ana!
This was an awesome video Anna!
Your deff a beast! Love the content! And I’m totally in love with you but that’s besides the point.🤣 keep on sending!
Usually the people who climb hard despite being "weak" (in bouldering) still have pretty strong fingers, they just are more flexible, have better positioning, and are more dynamic (which sometimes takes even more finger strength).
for anyone else who wants to hand really small edges just tape some folded stripes of paper above/into your holds and make them smaller this way. Easy to take off later on, works great for me.
Impressive stuff! Keep crushing
Chapeau! had no idea you where this strong o.Ô
As one of the few public champions of slab climbing, do you think you might ever check out some of Johnny Dawes’ slab climbs, like The Very Big & The Very Small or The Meltdown? Even just to touch the holds or dabble around, I think it’d be pretty interesting to see your take on the world’s hardest slab climbs :D
I’ve in fact tried both 🙈 just a reccy mission… seeing if they’d be good projects to come back to!
@@AnnaHazelnutt That’s awesome!! Best of luck to you, hopefully we’ll see you makin’ moves on them someday!
🤩cool video Anna! I'll try it
Who's that handsome SOB chomping a whole naan bread?
Certainly made me laugh!
cool vid! I'll have to try it with my crew, good inspo
Bro your tripod set up looks like mine 🤣
Ahahahah ripppp
Do the lattice test!!!
Paused guessing V6/7.
No well out 😂
your looking more muscular honing you to beast mode 💪💪
Hahaha 😂 nice! Thanks 🙏🏽
Super cool tool and motivating to gauge your strength, also I’m slowly loosing my mind trying to remember where that🐬🦅🐅 quote is from.
😂 hot Rod 😤🙏🏽
I think the fuzzy slippers give you more power, Anna.
damn, you are so strong!
Oh my god, why climb when you can fly with the size of your lats! Really impressive stuff Anna 👊
Anna stronger than Magnus confirmed?
😂😂
Next vid Anna vs. Magnus - Boss fight. 😂🤣
@@jeremyaaronbates If she can lure him onto her terrain I think she's got a chance.
@@thesii213 definitely, it would make for an interesting collaboration, for sure.
@@jeremyaaronbates Definitely would love to see it!
I guessed v7 without pull-ups and v5 with. Doing this on 20mm edges would be interesting to see but I do feel like there's a large difference between half Crimp and half Crimp with a index finger drag which I see people do both
Those wide grip pull ups are gonna make it a little bit harder too, im sure you could squeeze out a few more in normal grip.
It really seems to weight weighted hangs/pullups over unweighted. I put in 11 unweighted pulls plus 15s unweighted hang at my 80kg, and it said I can PROJECT (yes, project) v2 lmao. When I put in 3x15kg pullups, it says v4. I guess if I had done weighted hangs it'd shift that quite a lot as well.
I can regularly climb v4-5, probably project v6 though I don't have good benchmarks. I'm pretty strong for the grades I climb too, or at least it seems that way based on other people at my level
Woahhh that’s super interesting! I feel like there’s a whole different element to this test that could be unweighted numbers equating to sport grades rather than boulder grades
@@AnnaHazelnutt Maybe yeah! I think it may just be a flaw in the calculation though...
For me at least the initial strength/pullup training gains for weighted and unweighted are really closely correlated. I've barely trained weighted; my focus was on increasing endurance using unweighted. So I got my weighted pull strength "free" by doing lots of unweighted ones. Until you get to really high reps I don't know if you really need the specificity of weighted exercises
@@thenayancat8802 ahh yeah I see. I guess it just depends on your goals then! If I want to increase baseline strength, weighted hangs are probably the way to go (I can hang for quite long with no weight bc I have relatively better endurance!)
Hanging 8 mil for twenty seconds is so crazy to me! I have big ol sausage fingers and weigh 200 pounds. I can hang 275 total weight on 20 mil and it’s absolute max effort for me to hang body weight on my 15 mil edge on my travel Manuva board. I can do about fifteen pull-ups and have climbed V5 in Leavy. I wonder what the calculator would say for me. I can’t imagine hanging an 8 mil egde!! 🤯
Your max hang on 20mm seems really strong compared to your ability on small edges. At a guess I would give you v7 based on your 20mm hang and v4 based on 15mm.
You should put it in the calculator! (Link in description). I guess it’s because I spend a lot of my time on smaller edges and endurance routes rather than power moves between bigger edges!
I weigh 200+lbs and could hang off a 4mm edge at one point. Hanging 1 arm off bigger edges was far more predictive of harder climbing for me though. Hanging off really tiny edges is alot about conditions and technique
It's definitely harder to do pull ups on jugs than on a bar too
Ah yes. Especially cause these were pretty wide! I’ll have to re do the test at some point 😂
Based on 14mm I predict 7c+
Based on 8mm I predict 8a+
14mm+ pullups 7c
8mm+ pullups 8a
(sport grades)
The test doesn’t give sport grades… but I wonder what it would equate to. Any reliable way to convert the v grade it spit out to a rope grade? I’d assume v8 goes to around 8a and v10 to 8b or so?
@@AnnaHazelnutt Seems accurate. This grade converter estimates fr 8a at hard v8 and fr 8b at v10 boulder.
Pretty sure resting in the hang is standard acceptable. For most non-climbers, it extends no benefit because grip strength isn't as strong as climbers. Even for climbers though, without shaking out, it's not a huge benefit.
If your name is Anna hazelnutt you don't need to be stronger ffs. You certainly shouldn't be climbing better than you are. Just keep doing what you do.
I cant hang more than 1 second on a 8mm but able to send v11 and few v10 this year....
lot of people get obsesive with this kind of test and lose the point sometimes...
Yeah small ledge ability doesn’t really make or break how strong you are. Overall physicality is what makes boulderer’s strong
So I used to think that it was hand size so I matched my hands to some girls at the gym and they’re literally the same, so why are girls pretty universally strong on crimps? All the girls at my gym prefer crimpy climbs (so do I) but why do girls excel at crimps?
This isn’t related to this video in particular but I’ve been watching some of your videos and other climbing videos and I’ve been wondering in general (and I hope this isn’t a dumb question but) is it harder for women to climb because of our chests? Like because that would keep us further away from the wall? I don’t climb but it makes sense in my head that having a chest would keep you a bit further away from the wall and it seems like every mm would matter while climbing so I was just wondering!
Climbing is really cool cause I feel like there are things about being a woman that really help us on the wall (most women are more flexible then men, as an example) and it seems to even the playing field! As far as boobs go… I’ve definitely had my small ones hit holds or get stuck in gri gris before but never to an extent that stopped me from doing a climb. HOWEVER if you have really big boobs they can get super annoying on slabs and are a bit heavy, which impacts the whole strength-to-weight ratio thing. But I don’t think it’s a big deal overall.
guessing 7a+/7b for boulder grade
Why haven’t you been tested by Tom? 😁😂👍🏼💪🏼
Lolol we were too busy projecting. Next year 😂
Spirit of a bottle nose dolphin
I don't think you should have been downgraded for pull strength. I think your level of pull strength is adequate for most styles of climbing at your grade range, except compression/fridge huggy moves with lots of lat tension. I predicted v8/v10 with or without the pullups.
It's interesting to see the strength differences, because your impressive strength on the micros was close to my prediction, but I also thought you'd hit around 20kg on the 14mm edge.
Are you going to implement anything new in your training, like developing more pulling power or hanging more weight on medium edges, or capitalizing on your small edge strength by doing some pullups on 8-10mm holds? Or are you just gonna keep on climbing hard stuff?
I personally cannot hang on the 8mm BM micros at all, but the app gave me V9 for 48% bw on a 20mm, and upgraded me to v10 for my pulling power. it's comforting knowing i'm strong enough for the v7-9 climbs I want to try over the next few months, and my plan for next year was already to focus on smaller edges after training weighted hangs throughout this year.
I’m planning on focusing on finger strength and building up a better base right when I get home and stop constantly traveling. I’ve been gathering a list of things I want to improve when I go home for the projies.
Good luck on your training!!
Aren’t the upper outside holds on that beast maker 20mm?
This is beastmaker 2000 so the holds are from 14-15mm depending if you include the rounded edge in your measurement
@@AnnaHazelnutt oh ok
Interesting. I can probably do 6 or so pull ups at 5kg and hang 15kg for 7 s but wouldn't stand a chance on the 8mm edge. I can just about manage v4 and my max trad is e1 so I reckon there's a lot more at play in your climbing as you say.
Surprised though given you're bestie literally runs lattice that you didn't rock up for their strength testing instead of using this app!
I can do 3 full range one arm pull ups and the assessment says my upper body strength is very low which might limit my climbing to slabs :(
Is that the standard "distance between hands" doing pull ups? I feel like its super wide.. with a narrower grip you would do a lot more, no? Anyway, I love your content, big hug!
Yeah so these pull-ups were quite wide, and also although they were jugs, its still not a bar! I might be able to do a few more with both of those corrections, but honestly who knows 😂
@@AnnaHazelnutt I honestly would bet money on it hahaha. I like your relaxed attitude about it, I would be obssesed about these details.
@@basurabasura 😂 I guess is was more of a “this is what I’ve got so that’s that” attitude. Next time I’m near a bar and a scale maybe I can make the test more accurate haha
@@AnnaHazelnutt Makes sense! Remember to update me with the results, I will be waiting here in this comment. Waiting to cash my bet on more than 5 pull ups
Spelling for "Jędrzej": upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/32/Pl-J%C4%99drzej.ogg
but i think you can simplify this to "JJ" :-)
Do you live in the UK? That looks like a British house lol
I’ve looked at that website before and I’m not really sure whether it’s very accurate. As with all these tests it’s always worth taking these “results” with a pinch of salt.
That’s kinda my point! Climbing has so many factors to it- that’s why these tests are so interesting, because there’s this secret factor that throws scores off in inexplicable ways (which is fun to explore)
The thing that frustrates me about climbing is you never really know where you stand grade wise because everything is so subjective depending on area, etc….even going from the gym to outside is soooo different. There should almost be two different grading systems (one for indoors and one for outdoors), because it’s rare that people climb their indoor grade outdoors.
It’s also what makes climbing so wonderful! I think it’s best to think of it as two different sports. It’s super rare I climb as hard indoors as I do outdoors, and for a lot of people this is reversed!
@@AnnaHazelnutt true, and at least when climbing outdoors you don’t have the added annoyance of dealing with setters whose grade subjectivity changes depending on the day. And you’re a stud climber who has climbed incredibly difficult trad routes. I think that people who have already climbed either at or above their expectations have a more chill mindset because in their minds they can tell themself that they’ve already climbed ridiculously hard so they no longer have the same sense of something to prove that us mere mortals do😃
always find it kinda depressing to hear the test and training is hanging for 7 seconds, dont thinki can fully hold my weight on 20mm, and if i do its probably not for 7s lol
It’s something to work up to! And this test is cool because you can put in less time as well. Try it out!
I feel you. Been bouldering for round 7 years at three times a week now but still can't hold bodyweight on 20mm for long. Pure bouldering seems to not work for me as it does for others.
@@AnnaHazelnutt yeah thats true, kinda wanna train for it sometime soon aswell, when I really get stuck and I can always just test this I guess
@@user-qb4wz3hi6d oh wow thats crazy tbh, do you avoid crimps?
@@denlolify no I don't. On slab I really like small crimps, but as soon as it gets a little bit overhanging I just can't hold them for more than a few moves :( By the way I boulder harder routes than other people in my gym who can hang from 20 mm, so I guess I maxed out on technique and am currently limited by my finger strength
Why are you looking at yourself instead the camera? It feels like you're talking to yourself instead the audience.
Ah I guess I didn’t realize 🙈 good feedback
You should retry the 14mm edge once again. I think with holding the edge in a better way you should get better results. The difference between you’re 14mm and 8mm is to big otherwise.
Hahaha I’m not sure what to say other than this is what I’ve got for ya lol. I can promise you I know how to hold edges on a hangboard
@@AnnaHazelnutt yes I suppose you do ;) it’s just to far on the vid to see you’re grip. If the line of you’re first finger joint is resting on the edge of the 14mm beastmaker hold that’s perfect.
It just did not made sense to me because i can add 30kg for 5sec on the 14mm and only hang for 10 sec on the 8mm.
Nice!
Hate this test I did the lattice test as well came in at v14+ finger strength and tied magnus for his 9A strength test but I’m having a hard time breaking through v10’s 🥲
These tests are never perfect and don’t account for outliers!! That’s really cool that you have such ridiculously strong fingers though. Maybe it’s a nudge to look for what’s best to work on if you want to improve (ie not the physical side of it, but maybe more technical training, flexibility, mindset??)