I used to gasket match by putting the gasket on the heads with two tiny spots of silicone. Then I put the manifold on with four tiny drops of silicone. Tighten it all up, let it dry and the gasket will come off stuck to the manifold. You can then scribe the lines, and remove the gasket. If you are careful with the placement of the silicone, you can still reuse the gasket too.
By the way Eric, David Vizard made mention of your name and very nice comment about your work/research on one of his CZcams videos; "Super detailed AFR BB Chevy 'Enforcer' head review" on November 29, 2021 at about 1:98 on the video. I'd say that's quite an honorable/respectful mention about you coming from someone like David Vizard.
Thank you. You have given me the confidence to tackle my inlet manifold and gasket. I put a camera down the middle runners and noticed that the gasket overlaps the ports by 1/4 inch on 3 sides
Hmmm.....those heads kinda look a little familiar to me ;) ---anyway, very nice and very detailed work, and cool way of accurately port matching the runner flanges, Eric. I really like your attention to detail.
I am very new to this porting and polishing scene, but I use duct tape to cover and give a little protection to my cast iron head surface areas. Its not perfect but it helps me a lot but I'm using a dremel so its a lot slower. Hope this helps.
I talked to an engine builder in the 1980's about gasket and port matching... he said they had actually bothered to test that and found the average airflow gain was 3% per mismatch, and Im sure that had alot to do with production tolerances then, without saying whether it was the gasket or the manifold to head miss match or a combination. It looks like the stuff you are working with are held to a tigher tolerance!!
I was going to say 0.012"! great vid. My first engine i tried to mark the head and intake with a sharpie for front to back alignment. Lets just say, i bet your way is more accurate haha
Hey there Eric love the videos very informative 👍. I have a question if you weren't to port match these heads and intake what type if horsepower and torque would you be loosing? Just a rough estimate.
Eric I did the same thing to my head( iron wp) it wasn't but 5 tho .I ran it with 13.7 to 1 pistons and so far so good I've been watching the compression on that hole. I guess the gasket took care of it.. Ole ridge runner race truck if ya wanna hear it run 95 s10
Eric you ever get a set of aftermarket aluminum heads that there is step valve guides leaving a gap between them and the aluminum in the bowls. Should I change them out or grind the aluminum to match or just leave alone
Do you predrill the holes in the intake, first and then put on the head? I think it may help from drilling into the head. I do like your idea. Thank you!
Great video, but i recommend not making it a habit to leave things in the lifter valley--that's how debris happens :) of course, this block is toast, but i know plenty of shade tree mechanics don't have a tray nearby so they just leave stuff where they can out of laziness training. just sayin that's all. Meanwhile, with this particular full gasket, i'm thinking those bolt holes do a great job of lining things up without drilling a potential crack starter near a bolt area that's going to get torqued down, and being a full gasket one can outline where the top of the manifold sits, allowing it to be lined up on installation--or a location to take measurements from. sometimes you might just be able to scribe the head with an outline of the intake flange, or paint if you fear carving.
This is just a mock up block hence the hole in the side. I’m not worried about things in lifter valley. I leave them there so I can have them handy when I need them.
I have always put the gasket and intake on take small drill bit drill thrugh both take back off you can see how much your off then go from there. Might be wrong way to it
Eric does the step of .035 actually benefit with reversion to aid in horse power production ? Or if you port match perfectly will it hurt the production of horse power where it would be actually noticeable at the track through the traps, or on a dyno where it could show as a recordable event?
Also curious. I would have assumed that straight airflow would be beneficial for velocity and flow, but in cylinder its all turbulence in the end anyways? Assuming mixture is equal. I wouldn't imagine a .035 would create much in much of anything in terms of actual airflow disruption except on boundary layers
@@uncleTedLol yeah I hope he could come back on a reply to this one. Whether or not this would be a real extreme difference be noticeable at all in mph, or elapsed times.
While I'm not against drilling for dowels, as the Holden 253/308's I own come like it standard, from the factory. but on other Engines, The way I do the Port Matching, ethier the left or right head or gasket fits, lines up perfect. No Drilling required.
Hmm...As long as the Gasket & Head port Opening perimeter is Larger than the Manifold port opening, what possible dyno power test improvement can precision port matching improve other than Reducing desirable port anti-reversion effects ??
My method: Duct tape a 44oz foam fountain drink container onto the end of your shop-vac hose, and seal the drink cup into the cylinder of the block so the shopvac can suck on the cylinder. Have exhaust valve installed, but not intake valve. Turn on shopvac and spray a bit of paint primer down the intake runner for the cylinder you are "marking". Resposition shopvac and repeat for all cylinders. This will mark where your head ports are misaligned with the intake. Grind as needed.
Block decked, heads milled: Layout dye along top of ports. Straight edge along top of ports. Scribe line to each end of head. Do same to manifold. Align scribed lines at each end of head to check for misalignment.
Have you ever done before and after dyno testing on a port matching job? I’m just wondering how much power it’s worth, considering how little work it is any power is worth it
Aka Team G intake. Correct me if I'm wrong. At least the sbc version is nearly identical to the old team G. Maybe the plenum is higher idk I've not seen that many but for the most part it's a name change.
How much power does gasket matching make if you do both intake and exhaust on an application like this. Seems typical amount. I do this to engines when ever I have to swap a head. I always got people telling me I am wasting my time and I will barely feel a difference if at all. So, am I wasting my time.
Why does the version 2 have less flow.... 🤣🤣🤣... you knew that was coming...and don't ask me how I know....🤣🤣🤣....but, keep up the content, we enjoy it.😊
Just wondering, could you use some kind of inspection camera to help with port matching? I don’t even know what they cost… Those boat engines look like you could really burn some fuel! I’ve seen a few running up and down Lake Havasu, impressive rooster tails!
There is some really cheap scopes available. Some under $100. If you were scouting stuff in a junkyard it can help find issues making sure all the pistons are home. If you were trying to port match a dual plane it would be a neat idea.
That's a great technique. An old timer racer taught me 30+ years ago to put a couple spots of grease on the heads, lay the gaskets down and then put some RTV on the intake, set it on, torque it down and let it set overnight. Pull it off the next day and of course the gaskets stick to the intake. Gasket match from there. Of course this was on Pontiac engines so the intake is pulled into the thermostat crossover so there is no back and forth adjustment available. That method worked pretty well but occasionally the grease would allow the gaskets to slip a little. I think I'll start using your method as it seems to be very repeatable when you have to do a tear down for whatever reason. Thanks!
Hello master. How many house power can I get I have the ports flows 312 cfm.Thes Heads com from super stocker.Wedge Alu Heads Mopar 440. 0600 lift.Have Nice Wedge Tunnel Ram intake.Sixpacks modifaid have even Billet metring block special order från USA.Engine runns grate.Weery god respons on The trotel like Efi..I hope i have araund 620 630 hp...I have even Fogger Nos system.Gonne handel with wery smal nr 018 022. Mayby hit 700hp.
Yeah but do you even gain anything by port matching when such a small amount of material even needs to be remove? I can see doing that if there is a 3mm or 4mm overlap, but when it's already like 2mm or less like that, is it even worth it?
Ridiculous! Hows eye balling the ports through the intake work with a dual plane? I would trace the intake on the gasket with a sharpie before drilling holes in my intake!
Seen one vid where guy said the critical part of the port to match was the floor, and he used intake gasket thickness to achieve this alignment. Said unless ports are far off from each other there isn't any gain by grinding.... Not having a Dyno and multiple test pieces I'll never know the truth to his statements.
Sometimes the simplest solution to solve a problem is in your face and a smart person might not even realize it. I've thought of ideas to solve my port and gasket matching issues for quite some time now on my small block stroker. I've never thought of this easy and simple way of taking care of matching and I consider myself a fairly logical and smart person. I've even done this practice before for re-mounting my body panels after lining them up and removing them for painting. They always go back to line up perfectly upon re-installing them. Never thought of using this to match ports.
An idea for the perfectionists amoung us. You can use a cheap Harbor Freight inspection camera ($85) to get a look at the final assembly (for dual plane manifolds). No, I wouldn't buy one for port matching, but you will not be sorry having one in the shop. Use you imagination the number of uses. Not being critical...... just an idea.
Awesome tips. But... Drivers side on a boat....? Or car..... ? 😜. Center console..? That you know what the note means to you is whats important. Just Joking around a lil bit.
Why not just tape the gaskets to the head like you do... then with the tape properly located where it can be pulled loose from the head later place several BB size droplets of silicone strategically on the frog tape to manifold points and let dry for an hour or two. The Gaskets will stick to the manifold perfectally in place and no harm done to the gasket being the tape is where the silicone has made contact. No holes necessary. Cool how you did it but a little more work than necessary in my opnion and all the time drilling could be spent elsewhare while the silicone dries.
@Nobody How could you know the position of the intake relative to the cylinder head without a locator that controls for X and Y position? The suggested alternate method only controls the gasket alignment thus less control of port alignment and is not repeatable if the gaskets required replacement. If the motor was ever torn down and assembled it could introduce variance as each part has its own manufacturing and installation/assembly tolerance. The tolerances could stack causing error of port alignment which the 'dowel' method can identify, measure, and control as well as being repeatable.
@@ictcarguy3162 First locate the intake gasket to the head as shown in the video, sit the intake on with silicone properly placed then lift the intake off with gaskets stuck to the intake after the silicone has dried. (then scribe) No need to make to much of it.
Don’t gasket match the manifold! You lose velocity. Only port match the head where you have an obstruction of flow from the manifold. Rookie mistake, which it seems some of the so called “Professionals” are doing as well... 🙄
@@WeingartnerRacing The Japanese small engines manf., like to have dowel pins on head/ intake studs or bolts. That's the best of the best. Your idea of drilling small holes is similar, only needs small hardened pins. I did that a lot, only with straight drilled, holes, and leave the pins there in final assembly.
@@ronbradshaw7404 with the v formation of the heads and intake you would have to pull dowels each time the intake went on or off. It seems like that would be a pain.
"it's only going to be an 800hp engine" - ROFLMFAO!!!! Christ!! Only 800hp? Is that all? Might as well toss it in the trash FFS! ha ha ha!!!! If y'all got any 800hp engines laying around that you don't want, I'll come take 'em off your hands, no problem!! ha ha ha ;)
@@WeingartnerRacing when you have the heads and intake you're going to use. That's the holes that you will use. Using the gasket on both, you have a foolproof why to make your marks.
@@jackbrookshire431 that sounds great but when you put them on a block you realize the bolt holes on the intake are higher than the head or visa versa. Then your port match might be the same size and dimensions as the head but not aligned at all. That happens all the time.
@@WeingartnerRacing your bolt holes will dictate where the gasket goes. You can't get around that. Any discrepancies after the port work you're going to see with your scope.
None of the manifolds have a 3/8 snug fit hole. They are 1/2 or larger which gives plenty of movement up down and all around. They do this to make up for deck differences and so on. So if you gasket matched the intake lining up the bolt holes on the intake to the gasket then attached it to the head unless the bolt hole is exactly centered on the head your alignment is off. The bolt hole on the head is rarely if ever centered with the hole on the intake, especially if the heads were milled.
Dear Eric. Please don't use a whiney voice when describing a viewer's comments. It's somewhat demeaning and very Freiburger. Otherwise, a great vid as is usual.
I used to gasket match by putting the gasket on the heads with two tiny spots of silicone. Then I put the manifold on with four tiny drops of silicone. Tighten it all up, let it dry and the gasket will come off stuck to the manifold. You can then scribe the lines, and remove the gasket. If you are careful with the placement of the silicone, you can still reuse the gasket too.
By the way Eric, David Vizard made mention of your name and very nice comment about your work/research on one of his CZcams videos; "Super detailed AFR BB Chevy 'Enforcer' head review" on November 29, 2021 at about 1:98 on the video. I'd say that's quite an honorable/respectful mention about you coming from someone like David Vizard.
Thank you. You have given me the confidence to tackle my inlet manifold and gasket. I put a camera down the middle runners and noticed that the gasket overlaps the ports by 1/4 inch on 3 sides
Wow !! Great job and thanks for the education..I did alot of marine engines and would alway gasket match..love this.
Hmmm.....those heads kinda look a little familiar to me ;) ---anyway, very nice and very detailed work, and cool way of accurately port matching the runner flanges, Eric. I really like your attention to detail.
Good stuff Eric…I always wondered how to do this precisely.
Always learn more from you thank you nicely done
I am very new to this porting and polishing scene, but I use duct tape to cover and give a little protection to my cast iron head surface areas. Its not perfect but it helps me a lot but I'm using a dremel so its a lot slower. Hope this helps.
I talked to an engine builder in the 1980's about gasket and port matching... he said they had actually bothered to test that and found the average airflow gain was 3% per mismatch, and Im sure that had alot to do with production tolerances then, without saying whether it was the gasket or the manifold to head miss match or a combination. It looks like the stuff you are working with are held to a tigher tolerance!!
I was going to say 0.012"! great vid. My first engine i tried to mark the head and intake with a sharpie for front to back alignment. Lets just say, i bet your way is more accurate haha
Looks like a good technique to use. Thanks.
Hey there Eric love the videos very informative 👍. I have a question if you weren't to port match these heads and intake what type if horsepower and torque would you be loosing? Just a rough estimate.
Eric I did the same thing to my head( iron wp) it wasn't but 5 tho .I ran it with 13.7 to 1 pistons and so far so good I've been watching the compression on that hole.
I guess the gasket took care of it..
Ole ridge runner race truck if ya wanna hear it run 95 s10
I love your channel man, it's like @theovon is teaching me airflow 💙💙💙💙🏎💨💙💙💙
Eric you ever get a set of aftermarket aluminum heads that there is step valve guides leaving a gap between them and the aluminum in the bowls. Should I change them out or grind the aluminum to match or just leave alone
Do you predrill the holes in the intake, first and then put on the head? I think it may help from drilling into the head. I do like your idea. Thank you!
I'm just curious if you could talk about the intake manifold more and why you like it so much
Great video, but i recommend not making it a habit to leave things in the lifter valley--that's how debris happens :) of course, this block is toast, but i know plenty of shade tree mechanics don't have a tray nearby so they just leave stuff where they can out of laziness training. just sayin that's all. Meanwhile, with this particular full gasket, i'm thinking those bolt holes do a great job of lining things up without drilling a potential crack starter near a bolt area that's going to get torqued down, and being a full gasket one can outline where the top of the manifold sits, allowing it to be lined up on installation--or a location to take measurements from. sometimes you might just be able to scribe the head with an outline of the intake flange, or paint if you fear carving.
This is just a mock up block hence the hole in the side. I’m not worried about things in lifter valley. I leave them there so I can have them handy when I need them.
I have always put the gasket and intake on take small drill bit drill thrugh both take back off you can see how much your off then go from there. Might be wrong way to it
Eric does the step of .035 actually benefit with reversion to aid in horse power production ? Or if you port match perfectly will it hurt the production of horse power where it would be actually noticeable at the track through the traps, or on a dyno where it could show as a recordable event?
Also curious. I would have assumed that straight airflow would be beneficial for velocity and flow, but in cylinder its all turbulence in the end anyways? Assuming mixture is equal.
I wouldn't imagine a .035 would create much in much of anything in terms of actual airflow disruption except on boundary layers
@@uncleTedLol yeah I hope he could come back on a reply to this one. Whether or not this would be a real extreme difference be noticeable at all in mph, or elapsed times.
Great tips,thanks
Had anyone use that intake b4 building my first bbc and idk if I should get that intake or a Edelbrock Victor rj intake
Great video awesome tips can this be done with the heads off the engine? Might be a balancing act. Oh wait the head gaskets have an affect on things?
While I'm not against drilling for dowels, as the Holden 253/308's I own come like it standard, from the factory. but on other Engines, The way I do the Port Matching, ethier the left or right head or gasket fits, lines up perfect. No Drilling required.
?
@@atflokee yeah i didn't get what he said either
Hey mate, you have some great content. With this, will there be much of a power gain?
What would be your process if you were going to port the heads too? I am about to port the stock heads and Edelbrock Air Gap for my Dodge 360 Magnum.
Drill bit technique brilliant 👍
Great info , thanks eric
Shoulda watched this before I assembled the engine :( Great advice and shows simple is normally best.
Good info as always!
You should buy some 1/8 gauge stock and cut up some pins.
The chamber softening helps most on the big side anyway.
Hmm...As long as the Gasket & Head port Opening perimeter is Larger than the Manifold port opening, what possible dyno power test improvement can precision port matching improve other than Reducing desirable port anti-reversion effects ??
cool idea. i will try this and might try 1/8th welding rod after i drill the 1/8th inch holes.
It might work. Have fun grinding.
My method:
Duct tape a 44oz foam fountain drink container onto the end of your shop-vac hose, and seal the drink cup into the cylinder of the block so the shopvac can suck on the cylinder. Have exhaust valve installed, but not intake valve. Turn on shopvac and spray a bit of paint primer down the intake runner for the cylinder you are "marking". Resposition shopvac and repeat for all cylinders. This will mark where your head ports are misaligned with the intake. Grind as needed.
Not a bad idea.
Just Don't spray very much paint because shop vacs have a tendency to use electricity. 😁
💥 Kaboom! 💥
have you ever tried lightly misting dichrome down the port? love the video's mate.
Block decked, heads milled: Layout dye along top of ports. Straight edge along top of ports. Scribe line to each end of head. Do same to manifold. Align scribed lines at each end of head to check for misalignment.
Great tips
15👍's up EW thanks for sharing
Have you ever done before and after dyno testing on a port matching job? I’m just wondering how much power it’s worth, considering how little work it is any power is worth it
Its definitely not little work porting 😂 maybe just gasket matching but i spent over an hour opening up 1 intake runner on just the lower intake
Can I ask for a link to order the blue die?
That 13th,000 scratch on the deck of the head can you run it like that or do you need to reface it?
Aka Team G intake. Correct me if I'm wrong. At least the sbc version is nearly identical to the old team G. Maybe the plenum is higher idk I've not seen that many but for the most part it's a name change.
I don’t trust many, but I trust you. Thanks for being honest. I watched to th end.
Very informative videos. Don't pay any attention to those keyboard trolls
How much power does gasket matching make if you do both intake and exhaust on an application like this. Seems typical amount. I do this to engines when ever I have to swap a head. I always got people telling me I am wasting my time and I will barely feel a difference if at all.
So, am I wasting my time.
Why does the version 2 have less flow.... 🤣🤣🤣... you knew that was coming...and don't ask me how I know....🤣🤣🤣....but, keep up the content, we enjoy it.😊
Just wondering, could you use some kind of inspection camera to help with port matching? I don’t even know what they cost… Those boat engines look like you could really burn some fuel! I’ve seen a few running up and down Lake Havasu, impressive rooster tails!
There is some really cheap scopes available. Some under $100. If you were scouting stuff in a junkyard it can help find issues making sure all the pistons are home. If you were trying to port match a dual plane it would be a neat idea.
That's a great technique. An old timer racer taught me 30+ years ago to put a couple spots of grease on the heads, lay the gaskets down and then put some RTV on the intake, set it on, torque it down and let it set overnight. Pull it off the next day and of course the gaskets stick to the intake. Gasket match from there. Of course this was on Pontiac engines so the intake is pulled into the thermostat crossover so there is no back and forth adjustment available. That method worked pretty well but occasionally the grease would allow the gaskets to slip a little. I think I'll start using your method as it seems to be very repeatable when you have to do a tear down for whatever reason. Thanks!
No problem
Gasket matching my jeep 4.7l stroker will help? I planned on doing the throttle body and intake.
I don't know I don't mess with that head.
Hello master. How many house power can I get I have the ports flows 312 cfm.Thes Heads com from super stocker.Wedge Alu Heads Mopar 440. 0600 lift.Have Nice Wedge Tunnel Ram intake.Sixpacks modifaid have even Billet metring block special order från USA.Engine runns grate.Weery god respons on The trotel like Efi..I hope i have araund 620 630 hp...I have even Fogger Nos system.Gonne handel with wery smal nr 018 022. Mayby hit 700hp.
How the hell does someone window a block like that IDLING?? Hydrolock?
Man, fantastic information!! Thank you very much for the ideas!
Shit happens
It had problems and just waiting to spit out a rod in my oppion
Hey Eric, on a dual plane manifold, like this 2701, how do you know if the ports are lined up the best they be?
I usually just center the bolt holes on dual planes. Then I tighten it down and drill the holes.
An inspection camera that plugs into your cell phone can be had for less than 20 bucks on Amazon, would be handy for this.
Ignore those negative people, some people are just negative no mater what you do or say, 1 out of 20 you just can't help, screw em
Yeah but do you even gain anything by port matching when such a small amount of material even needs to be remove? I can see doing that if there is a 3mm or 4mm overlap, but when it's already like 2mm or less like that, is it even worth it?
I think you're on the wrong channel
Couldn’t you have tig welded that small area and did a minimum cut?
I layout mine the exact same way 👍
Ridiculous! Hows eye balling the ports through the intake work with a dual plane? I would trace the intake on the gasket with a sharpie before drilling holes in my intake!
That why you drill the holes.
just curious. Why wouldn't you Center the bolt holes in the gasket with the bolt holes in the head?
Because when you center off of the bolt holes it rarely places the intake port in the right relation to the port on the head.
Seen one vid where guy said the critical part of the port to match was the floor, and he used intake gasket thickness to achieve this alignment. Said unless ports are far off from each other there isn't any gain by grinding....
Not having a Dyno and multiple test pieces I'll never know the truth to his statements.
James Bond says .007 to clean up the head mistake
Sometimes the simplest solution to solve a problem is in your face and a smart person might not even realize it. I've thought of ideas to solve my port and gasket matching issues for quite some time now on my small block stroker. I've never thought of this easy and simple way of taking care of matching and I consider myself a fairly logical and smart person. I've even done this practice before for re-mounting my body panels after lining them up and removing them for painting. They always go back to line up perfectly upon re-installing them. Never thought of using this to match ports.
An idea for the perfectionists amoung us. You can use a cheap Harbor Freight inspection camera ($85) to get a look at the final assembly (for dual plane manifolds).
No, I wouldn't buy one for port matching, but you will not be sorry having one in the shop. Use you imagination the number of uses.
Not being critical...... just an idea.
You could of just traced around the intake marking the gasket. Also the bolt holes lined up perfectly with the gasket.
That’s very rare.
Awesome tips. But... Drivers side on a boat....? Or car..... ? 😜. Center console..? That you know what the note means to you is whats important. Just Joking around a lil bit.
Just curious as to why you don't use a steel template with tapered drift pins, and match head, gaskets, and manifold to.
Dam I was going to guess .020
My take on this video is that the intake manifold/gasket match is done at the factory and the head/gasket match is not. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
.010" deep
Heh you said you were gonna write on his head.
Why not just tig the head and machine the repair rather than machine it to remove the gouge?
Why not just tape the gaskets to the head like you do... then with the tape properly located where it can be pulled loose from the head later place several BB size droplets of silicone strategically on the frog tape to manifold points and let dry for an hour or two. The Gaskets will stick to the manifold perfectally in place and no harm done to the gasket being the tape is where the silicone has made contact. No holes necessary. Cool how you did it but a little more work than necessary in my opnion and all the time drilling could be spent elsewhare while the silicone dries.
@Nobody How could you know the position of the intake relative to the cylinder head without a locator that controls for X and Y position? The suggested alternate method only controls the gasket alignment thus less control of port alignment and is not repeatable if the gaskets required replacement. If the motor was ever torn down and assembled it could introduce variance as each part has its own manufacturing and installation/assembly tolerance. The tolerances could stack causing error of port alignment which the 'dowel' method can identify, measure, and control as well as being repeatable.
@@ictcarguy3162 First locate the intake gasket to the head as shown in the video, sit the intake on with silicone properly placed then lift the intake off with gaskets stuck to the intake after the silicone has dried. (then scribe) No need to make to much of it.
.015" deep
28 thou to get the gouge out
.015 - .020 on head gouge.
So basically you're just pinning the gasket and intake in place
I am guessing .012
Edit wow that was close if I do say so myself
.010 - .015 deep
Don’t gasket match the manifold! You lose velocity. Only port match the head where you have an obstruction of flow from the manifold.
Rookie mistake, which it seems some of the so called “Professionals” are doing as well... 🙄
Sure
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽
Nice but, have you ever heard about dowel pins?................
Can you explain to me how you install the intake with the dowels installed in the heads or intake?
@@WeingartnerRacing The Japanese small engines manf., like to have dowel pins on head/ intake studs or bolts. That's the best of the best. Your idea of drilling small holes is similar, only needs small hardened pins. I did that a lot, only with straight drilled, holes, and leave the pins there in final assembly.
@@ronbradshaw7404 with the v formation of the heads and intake you would have to pull dowels each time the intake went on or off. It seems like that would be a pain.
@@WeingartnerRacing Ohhh! certainly right you are!!!. I should shut-up :) i'm into Japanese motorcycle/ snowmobile engines, no V engines...
"it's only going to be an 800hp engine" - ROFLMFAO!!!! Christ!! Only 800hp? Is that all? Might as well toss it in the trash FFS! ha ha ha!!!!
If y'all got any 800hp engines laying around that you don't want, I'll come take 'em off your hands, no problem!! ha ha ha ;)
I know why....
CHINA
Useless. Just use the bolt holes. They're already there.
Those rarely line up.
@@WeingartnerRacing when you have the heads and intake you're going to use. That's the holes that you will use. Using the gasket on both, you have a foolproof why to make your marks.
@@jackbrookshire431 that sounds great but when you put them on a block you realize the bolt holes on the intake are higher than the head or visa versa. Then your port match might be the same size and dimensions as the head but not aligned at all. That happens all the time.
@@WeingartnerRacing your bolt holes will dictate where the gasket goes. You can't get around that. Any discrepancies after the port work you're going to see with your scope.
None of the manifolds have a 3/8 snug fit hole. They are 1/2 or larger which gives plenty of movement up down and all around. They do this to make up for deck differences and so on. So if you gasket matched the intake lining up the bolt holes on the intake to the gasket then attached it to the head unless the bolt hole is exactly centered on the head your alignment is off. The bolt hole on the head is rarely if ever centered with the hole on the intake, especially if the heads were milled.
Dear Eric. Please don't use a whiney voice when describing a viewer's comments. It's somewhat demeaning and very Freiburger. Otherwise, a great vid as is usual.
"Commoners "...You need to work on you attitude!
What are you talking about?
If that offended you I’m sorry. I didn’t think there was anything controversial in this video but I can see that I was wrong.
Good tips.